Tag Archives: huatulco

Editor’s Letter

By Jane Bauer

How much information can your brain hold?

I was listening to a talk by Dr. Charan Ranganath, a professor of Psychology and Neuroscience and Director of the Dynamic Memory Lab at the University of California, and he said “Memory is selective, so it is better to focus on quality over quantity.” He went on to describe how our brain discards information that is superfluous, much the way we empty our computer’s ‘recycle bin’.

When I was a growing up my mother consumed ‘news’ from 6pm-6:30pm while she cooked dinner, via the radio, courtesy of the CBC. She would shush anyone who needed to speak to her during this sacred half hour. Even then, I recognized that there is a dark kind of pleasure to hearing about crises in other parts of the world.

Gitnux.org reports that today average media consumption worldwide is 455 minutes per day. In 2021, U.S. adults spent 13 hours and 35 minutes per day consuming media. That is a lot! It is not just when you reach for your phone, there are screens everywhere vying for your attention.

I love using the word ‘consume’ when talking about media because it drives home the idea that it is something that really enters us, like food and sustenance. Yet, we treat it like something that glosses over us, disregarding its power and heft to shape us. While this issue looks at journalism, I invite you all to examine how media influences your life?

As Dr. Charan Ranganath suggests, focus on quality rather than quantity. Ask yourself “What do you really need to know?” One of the largest shifts with the rise of the internet’s presence in our lives is that not only are we consumers but we have become the product. Each time you search for something, make an online purchase or post, your habits are monitored and assessed so that companies can help you to ‘consume’ more efficiently.

When it comes to news consumption, what your internet browser shows you will be very different from what it shows someone who holds vastly different views from yours. While this may seem efficient, it actually creates a false sense that most of the world thinks just like you when the truth is that your reality is only showing you a slice of what is out there.

Be as selective about what you watch, read and listen to as you are about what you eat. Keep informed but also put your phone down and look at the world around you.

See you in July!

Exploring Mexico’s Top News Sources

By Jane Bauer

In today’s fast-paced digital world, staying informed is crucial. With a plethora of news sources available, it can be challenging to discern which ones offer reliable, accurate, and unbiased information. Whether you’re a local resident, a tourist, or simply interested in Mexican affairs, here’s a curated list of some of the best news sources in Mexico to help you stay up-to-date.

El Universal: Founded in 1916, El Universal is one of Mexico’s oldest and most respected newspapers. It covers a wide range of topics, including politics, economics, culture, and international affairs. With a reputation for balanced reporting and insightful analysis, El Universal remains a go-to source for many Mexicans seeking reliable news.
http://www.eluniversal.com.mx

Reforma: Renowned for its in-depth investigative journalism and comprehensive coverage of current events, Reforma is another prominent newspaper in Mexico. It has a strong online presence, offering multimedia content and opinion pieces alongside its news articles. Reforma is often praised for its commitment to journalistic integrity and accuracy.
http://www.reforma.com

Excélsior: Established in 1917, Excélsior is one of Mexico’s most influential newspapers. It provides extensive coverage of national and international news, with a focus on politics, business, and culture. Excélsior is known for its high editorial standards and objective reporting, making it a trusted source for many readers.
http://www.excelsior.com.mx

Animal Político: As a digital media outlet, Animal Político has gained popularity for its investigative reporting and coverage of social justice issues in Mexico. It focuses on political analysis, corruption, human rights, and environmental issues, often presenting stories from marginalized perspectives. Animal Político is widely regarded for its transparency and commitment to holding power to account.
http://www.animalpolitico.com

Proceso: A weekly news magazine renowned for its investigative journalism and critical analysis of Mexican politics, Proceso has been a staple in the country’s media landscape since 1976. It covers a wide range of topics, including corruption, crime, and human rights, often delving into controversial subjects. Proceso’s in-depth reporting and fearless approach to storytelling have earned it a dedicated readership.
http://www.proceso.com.mx

Milenio: Milenio is a multimedia news outlet known for its up-to-the-minute coverage of breaking news and events in Mexico. It offers a mix of articles, videos, and opinion pieces across various platforms, catering to diverse audiences. Milenio’s commitment to accuracy and timeliness has made it a popular choice for those seeking real-time updates on current affairs.
http://www.milenio.com

La Jornada: La Jornada is a left-leaning daily newspaper recognized for its progressive editorial stance and alternative viewpoints. It covers politics, social issues, culture, and the arts, often featuring opinion pieces from prominent intellectuals and activists. La Jornada’s commitment to social justice and grassroots reporting sets it apart in Mexico’s media landscape.
http://www.jornada.com.mx

CNN en Español: For those seeking international news with a Mexican perspective, CNN en Español offers comprehensive coverage of global events. With correspondents stationed across Mexico and Latin America, CNN en Español provides in-depth analysis and live reporting on breaking news, politics, business, and more.
http://www.cnnespanol.cnn.com

BBC Mundo: While not a Mexican news outlet per se, BBC Mundo provides Spanish-language coverage of global news and events, including those relevant to Mexico. Its reputation for impartiality and high-quality journalism makes it a valuable resource for Mexicans seeking a broader perspective on world affairs.
http://www.bbc.com/mundo

While this list is by no means exhaustive, these news sources represent some of the best options for staying informed about Mexico’s dynamic political, social, and cultural landscape. By diversifying your media consumption and critically evaluating sources, you can gain a well-rounded understanding of the issues shaping Mexico and the world.

Open Water Swimming in Huatulco

By Randy Jackson

For me, the greatest thing about Huatulco is the variety of outdoor activities available: swimming, snorkeling, scuba diving, surfing, boogie boarding, biking, golf, pickleball, beach volleyball, pool volleyball, kayaking, fishing, paddle boarding, mountain biking, bird watching, and hiking. I’ve done all of these activities in Huatulco, but my favorite activity has migrated to open-water swimming. And what an ideal place Huatulco is for travesía aguas abiertas.

There are nine official bays in Huatulco and many more coves with beaches. In April 2022, I wrote an article for The Eye on swimming each of the nine official bays of Huatulco. Swimming in the different bays or coves is delightful, and swimmers can go farther distances by swimming between beaches.

Some Open-Water Distances

Based in Santa Cruz, I am most familiar with this area’s more common open-water swims. All of these are swims I have either done or heard of others doing:

● Santa Cruz beach: From the rocks on the west (below the Nirú Beach Club) to the cruise ship pier: 200 meters
● Santa Cruz Rectangle: From the rocks on the west to the cruise ship pier, out along the pier to the end, across the bay past the first green buoy and back to the beach: 1 km
● Santa Cruz beach to the first green buoy and back: 750 meters
● Santa Cruz beach to the second green buoy and back: 1.5 Km
● Santa Cruz beach to Entrega beach: 1.2 Km
● Santa Cruz beach to Chahué beach: 2.5 Kms
● Órgano beach to Maguey beach: 1.5 Km
● Maguey beach to Violin beach: 2.5 Km
● El Tejon beach to Chahué beach: 1.2 Km
● El Tejon beach to Esperanza beach: 750 meters
● Cacaluta beach, loop around Cacaluta Island and return: 2 Km

Some Swim Resources for Huatulco

Yair Santiago Ortiz is a swim instructor and coach based in Huatulco. He welcomes new clients and is fluent in both English and Spanish. He can be reached at (phone/Whatsapp): +52 559 185 1023.

Each year in February, an open water swim event is held at Santa Cruz bay in Huatulco. This event is available for ages 7 to 60+ with timed swim distances of 500 meters, 1.25 km, 2.5 km, and 5 km. Potential entrants can find Information for the event on the RenueVa Facebook page:
http://www.facebook.com/renueva.ac.9/.

Each February, Karlyn Pipes, a champion professional swimmer and swim coach, hosts a seven-day swim camp in Huatulco. For more information, visit her website: https://karlynpipes.com/huatulco-mexico-swim-camps.

Another open-water swim competition takes place at Santa Cruz Huatulco in October: http://www.granretto.com/proximos-eventos/detalle?id=11.

For general information about open-water swimming in both fresh and salt water, and a list of certified open-water swim events, check out the World Open Water Swimming Association (WOWSA, http://www.openwaterswimming.com/); they certify a fresh-water swim of six different lengths at the Zimapám Dam in Querétaro in October. The Open Water Pedia listed the top 50 open-water swims in Mexico for 2018-19 – you can Google each swim to see whether it is still being held
(www.openwaterpedia.com/wiki/Mexico%27s_Top_50_Open_Water_Swims).

Swimming for Physical Fitness

Swimming is an aerobic, cardiovascular physical activity that includes all the positive benefits of physical exercise, but swimming also has some unique advantages over other forms of exercise. Swimming is particularly beneficial for people with arthritis. Swimming improves the functioning of arthritic joints without worsening symptoms. Swimming is a form of exercise especially recommended for older adults, as it improves range of motion, flexibility, and upper body strength. Regular swimming has also demonstrated improvements in the mental health of all ages.

Blue Spaces

Many studies have shown that time spent in nature benefits our mental well-being and promotes the emotions of happiness and contentment. Urban environments, especially the winter months in northern latitudes, make interactions with nature difficult. That is less of an issue in Huatulco, where nature in its tropical splendor surrounds us. The greenery and flowers are part of the natural environment here, but importantly, the ocean provides, in abundance, the benefits of blue spaces. Blue spaces are natural environments where water (oceans, rivers, lakes, streams) contributes natural benefits to our mental well-being.

In his book Blue Mind: The Surprising Science That Shows How Being Near, In, On or Under Water Can Make You Happier, Healthier, More Connected, and Better at What You Do (2015) marine biologist Wallace J. Nichols, Ph.D., outlines the remarkable effects of water in all its shapes and forms on our health and well-being. Although there are many ways to attain Blue Mind benefits, some simply by being near water or listening to its sounds, swimming is the total immersion with nature and a way to enter the Blue Mind zone.

Swimming Movies for Inspiration

There are several movies that depict swimming as a vehicle of personal transformation.

NYAD (2023, available on Netflix)

Starring Annette Bening and Jodie Foster, who received Oscar nominations for Best Actress and Best Supporting Actress, respectively, NYAD is about the 60-year-old former marathon swimming champion Diana Nyad, who endeavors to swim from Cuba to Key West Florida, a swim she failed to complete when she was in her swimming prime at age 28. Based on Nyad’s memoir Find a Way: The Inspiring Story of One Woman’s Pursuit of a Lifelong Dream (2016), the film uses a line from “The Summer Day,” a Mary Oliver poem (1999) – “Tell me, what is it you plan to do with your one wild and precious life?” – as a catalyst to undertake such a swimming quest. Spoiler alert: she makes it (eventually).

The Swimmers (2022, available on Netflix)

This film tells the touching, true story of two female swimmers (sisters) who fled war-torn Syria, ending up on an overloaded migrant boat headed to Europe when the motor failed. Almost none of the migrants on board could swim, so the two sisters pushed, pulled, and dragged the raft to shore. One of the sisters went on to compete in the Olympics. Beyond the swimming, this movie is a heartfelt tale of the humanity of refugees, who risk everything to escape violence and persecution.

The Swimmer (2020, available through AEON Magazine):

A 12-minute video by filmmaker Thomas Beug about long-distance swimmer Stephen Redmond, both of them Irish, about the transcendence of swimming; he finds an “ineffable sense of purpose” in open-water swimming. Redmond is the first person to complete the marathon swimming challenge Oceans Seven, with swims ranging from 10 to 27 miles (16-44 km) across the English Channel, the North Channel (between Scotland and Ireland), the Strait of Gibraltar, the Catalina Channel in California, the Moloka’i Channel in Hawai’i, the Cook Strait in New Zealand, and the Tusgaru Strait in Japan.

The Swimmer (1968, available on Amazon Prime)

The story is of Ned Merrill (Burt Lancaster), who emerges from the forest wearing a bathing suit and goes to a swimming pool of some welcoming, friendly neighbors. He then embarks on a quest to swim across the various pools of his wealthy neighbors in a quest to “swim home.” As he goes from pool to pool, the neighbors become less friendly, and he slowly realizes things are not as he thought. He comes to face the failures of his past – based on a short story by the American author John Cheever.

Overall, I would suggest that most open-water swimmers don’t need much inspiration to go for a swim. Huatulco is a fantastic place to do that. Recently (March 8), I encountered a large group of swimmers while returning to shore in the bay of Santa Cruz. It was a swim clinic from Mexico City, spending a long weekend practicing in the warm waters of Huatulco. A long way to go for a swim, but with the delights of all the bays of Huatulco, it is well worth it.

For comments or contact, email:
box95jackson@gmail.com.

Outdoor Pursuits over Eighty

By Marcia Chaiken and Jan Chaiken

We visited Mexico off and on beginning in 1980, and we’ve spent several months in Huatulco most years since 2001. Needless to say, we were considerably younger then. Our outdoor pursuits on the Oaxacan Coast required stamina and strength – hours of continuous snorkeling, hikes up and down steep trails, and long drives in our 4-wheel-drive SUV along bumpy roads that turned into river beds and ended at deserted beaches. We enjoyed every minute of such activities. But when we reached age 80, some vigorous activities began to result in more pain than pleasure. You’ll be glad to hear that we adapted and now find that many of the activities we’ve always enjoyed can be carried out from a comfortable seat on a patio overlooking a garden and the ocean.

Exploring botanical life

The coastal plant life, especially the cacti and agaves, always interested us. But now we can sit still long enough to observe the differences in the varieties and the fascinating ways they react to seasonal and daily changes. The cacti near our condo’s patio range from low-growing barrel shapes – with different arrangements of spines covering their green flesh – to amazingly tall trees with thick needle-covered mazes of branches reaching 20 or more feet (over 6 meters) into the sky. During the highest winds, the barrels hunker down and seem absolutely impervious, while the tall cacti stand firmly in place but gently sway – each branch in its own rhythm.

The rosette-shape agaves with their multiple spear-shaped leaves range in our garden-view from about 2-feet (60 centimeters) in height to over 5-feet. Their colors are primarily green but some are the palest green on the palette while other are the darkest green hue – and others are every green shade in between. When the winds sweep off the ocean, the agaves shimmy. Yes, not shake but actually shimmy. In a kind of optical illusion, by staring at one of the agaves you can “see” the leaves on the right continuously rotating to the right and down like a wheel, with the leaves on the left a mirror image — a movement which is not possible but is mesmerizing.

The agaves randomly produce buds and flowers. Some of the agave flowers appear startlingly overnight. Long stems emerge from the rosette and then are topped by bright yellow flowers. The flowering is very rare and usually signals the end of the plant’s life cycle. We also can observe low-growing succulents (Stapelia Gigantea) that usually are not worthy of mention. But after a recent unexpected overnight deluge, they produced an amazing huge starfish-shaped cream-colored flower, so large as compared to the usual size of the plant that the overall impression was of a miracle.

The cacti in our closely observed garden produce fruit at a specific season on a particular day. When that day occurs, the call goes out from all the local birds — and suddenly the cacti are covered with feathered fellows that are every color of the rainbow. Which brings us to our next pursuit.

Bird watching

We have our own unscientific names for groups of birds that keep us continuously entertained: strutters, flitters, and high-fliers. Two types of strutters parade across the garden in the early morning, the small brownish-grayish doves coo as they strut like chickens, occasionally stopping for a tasty bug treat. The large ungainly chachalacas resemble turkeys (and some local residents prepare them to eat as one would a turkey) as they march in front of us calling their friends with an excessively loud squawking chatter.

The high-fliers include three varieties of vulture – one uglier than the other– that appear in circles above a land area where some animal has died. We should be grateful that they clear the land of carrion – but actually we’re happy to see a decrease in their numbers in our visible skies, as the surrounding jungle is gradually being cleared and humans are replacing reptiles and rodents. Fortunately, sufficient trees remain for the pairs of nesting osprey that fly gracefully high above all day, emitting tiny little chirps unsuitable for such large birds. The pelicans, which can be seen fishing in the ocean by themselves or in small groups, flock together around sunset and present incredible geometric patterns as they circle the bay on the way to their nighttime arboreal campgrounds. And shortly after sunset when the sky becomes pink, peach, or rose, the swallows amass, flying by at first in a vanguard of ten or twelve and later in scores filling the sky.

The flitters include an incredible spectrum of song birds and strident screamers, ranging from the tiny nondescript cactus wrens that nestle down between agave leaves to the beautiful deep-marked blue, black and white screaming magpie jays. Each day brings different species – woodpeckers, flycatchers, orioles, buntings, hummingbirds. There are over 100 species of birds in our area. Many birders visit Huatulco, arise early in the morning, drive to parks armed with binoculars and bird books, and follow guides up trails or through jungle areas to complete their checklists. That’s fine for the under-80 crowd. But we pursue a similar passion with a cup of coffee or a glass of wine in hand on an ocean-view patio. Moreover, rather than merely checking a name off a list, we can observe details of the fascinating commensal relationship between birds and plants, such as golden-cheek woodpeckers who clean insects that are visibly attacking cacti.

Bonding with other animal life

While one of us has always avoided boats except to admire them, the other has long pursued whale-watching, all the way from the northern reaches of the Atlantic to both hemispheres of the Pacific. However, one of the greatest dangers for those over 80 is the possibility of falling, and small whale-watching boats are not particularly stable. Now we have found there is no reason to give up the joy of watching these incredible fellow mammals. We are always scanning the ocean surface for a sudden telltale spray of water. And a few times a week this scanning leads to the delight of watching the antics of one or more whales. Sometimes a solitary whale will swim in circles with one fin extended looking like he or she is waving a beckoning hello. Baby whales playing are adorable as they dive and bob up around each other, obviously paying no attention to the nearby adults guarding them. And one can never tire of watching a whale breaching or fluking – until numerous boats show up.

We can frequently watch whales for twenty minutes or more but invariably the human call goes out – “whale there,” and small boats gather from all directions surrounding the playful giants. It’s amazing that these gentle behemoths don’t simply knock the human pests out of their protective shells. But instead, they usually watch the boats for a few minutes, dive deep, and disappear from view.

Iguanas are another source of outdoor entertainment. Watching a heavy fellow climb a tree on branches more slender than his tail, then reach out to chomp on tender leaves, while the branches bend and sway under the pressure from his meaty body is remarkable. They never seem to fall since they use their tails to cling and balance. And although a friend claims iguanas have no maternal instinct because their babies hatch from eggs, we’ve watched a baby iguana feeding off low growing plants while a female circles protectively around the baby until it was time to leave and she nudged it in the right direction.

Human aquatic behavior is also interesting. Name the type of water vehicle humans use to stay afloat on the ocean and you can probably witness it from Huatulco. A few times a month, usually around dawn, large aquatic cities (aka cruise ships) make their way to dock in Santa Cruz. They seem to spawn smaller human water toys, since a few hours later the water in the surrounding bays often is disturbed by water jet skis and wave runners. Usually, shortly before sunset, the deep blast of the cruise boat’s horn warns passengers to be back on board and later we are alerted by another horn to watch the ship being tugged slowly back out to sea, where from our patio we can see it slowly make its way through the channel and off to its next port.

Even when the cruise ship dock is vacant, the two nearby marinas launch fishing boats, “booze” boats for tourists, bay tour and snorkeling boats, graceful sail boats, catamarans, luxurious yachts, and a plethora of outboard pangas. On the sea horizon, full oil tankers make their way from the refineries in Salina Cruz to cities upcoast and back again with empty containers. Marines stationed at the nearby Mexico Naval base train in military boats of a spectrum of sizes and purposes. For a basically terrestrial species without gills or tails, we humans collectively spend much of our time on the water. That pattern is interrupted only when the winds blow hard, the waves turn white capped, the ocean color deepens to an ominous dark hue and the local marinas close.

Tuning into the rhythms of the world

As we age, we become acutely aware of natural cycles. There’s no place better for observing these cycles for the over-80 folks than the Oaxacan coast. From our outdoor patio theater we can watch the ebb and flow of the waves, especially remarkable at full moon and new moon when the waves smashing on the rocks below and islets at a distance reach the limits of their height. Storms at sea are literally awesome with high winds that toss about flora and fauna – including us.

We marvel at each miraculous sunrise and sunset – no two are the same. At night, as the sky turns from deep red or pink or peach to star-studded black, the distant lighthouse, El Faro, begins signaling “dangerous shoals” to passing ships, inspiring another outdoor pursuit – creating Haiku.

Quantified darkness
Light beams swirl from El Faro
Illuminate all

Neighbors have suggested many other outdoor pursuits suitable for adults of all ages: star-gazing, wine-tasting, cocktail mixing, reading in the shade of an umbrella, barbecuing, and one “off-patio” pursuit that we hope never to give up – aqua exercise. But whatever floats your boat, the basic message is the same: when you are over 80, your mobility and stamina may well change, but your zest for outdoor pursuits can remain the same.

The Street Names of La Crucecita

By Julie Etra

The cross streets of La Crucecita are almost entirely named for trees, and the vertical streets for flowering plants. Some are scientific names, some are common names, some are native species – the origins of some are not clear. For the most part, the names were chosen from the species of the dominant native plant community along the coast, known as selva seca (dry jungle). Selva seca is a winter deciduous (caducifolio) tropical forest. The decision to name the streets for native plants was apparently made by Juan Carlos Campillo Ojeda, an engineer working for FONATUR (Fondo Nacional de Fomento al Turismo) at the time the Bays of Huatulco resort was developed in the 1980s.

Bahías de Huatulco is the last of five federally planned resorts developed by FONATUR, which was created in 1964 to promote tourism through, among other things, resorts like Huatulco. The five major resorts developed by FONATUR are Cancun, Loreto, Los Cabos, Ixtapa/Zihuatenejo, and Huatulco. FONATUR has recently been relieved of its custodial responsibilities for Huatulco, which now falls under the aegis of the state and municipal governments.

The Grid

La Crucecita, even though a relatively new town (1985), was not laid out on a precisely north-south axis; the street grid runs northwest/southeast beside Blvd Chahue as it runs up to Route 200. It is easier, however, to think of the streets as being north-south and east-west. The grid is centered around the main square (zocalo) with its prominent kiosk, and fronts the town church, the Parroquia Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe y de la Santa Cruz.

There are four major north-south streets – Jazmin on the west (two-way), Gardenia on the west side of the zocalo (one-way south), Bugambilia on the east side of the zocalo (one-way north), and Carrizal on the east (one-way south). There are 16 east-west streets, and then there a few small streets that continue bigger streets or have names of their own.

The Street Names, Explained

Of course, walking is an outdoor sport, and so you should be thinking of the actual trees that the street names represent. The following is a very brief summary of the plant characteristics, a little natural history, and some interesting factoids. For the nerdily inclined readers of The Eye who are interested in botany, the common name of the tree, shrub, or flower is followed by the scientific name – Genus – followed by the name of the species. When genus is followed by the word “species,” it means that there is more than one species or type.

North-South Streets (West to East)

These streets are all named for ornamental plants.

Violetas (Viola species). This refers to violets. The Violaceae family does not have any native representatives on the coast, as the climate is too hot, nor have I (yet) seen any ornamental plants in the local nurseries. If you go farther north and higher up, the Ponderosa violet (Viola umbraticola) ranges from New Mexico in the U.S. to the state of Tlaxcala, east of Mexico City.

Plumbago (Plumbago species). This is a very common tropical ornamental plant with numerous species. The classic blue plumbago’s scientific name is Plumbago auriculata. It is native to South Africa (as is the calla lily, made famous by Diego Rivera, and agapanthus, the Lily of the Nile); all three are common around Huatulco. Plumbago does well in clay pots (macetas) and attracts pollinators, such as butterflies and bees, but all parts, including the bark, fruit, pollen, roots, sap, and seeds irritate the skin and eyes and can be harmful if ingested.

Jazmin (Jasminum grandiflorum is the most commonly planted), or jasmine in English. This vine is native to southern Asia, the Arabian Peninsula, northeast Africa, and the Yunnan and Sichuan regions of China, although it grows well in many tropical and semi tropical climates. Its flowers are white and aromatic, and the vine appears delicate.

Gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides). This aromatic, evergreen, ornamental shrub is spelled just as it is in English. A fun factoid, it is in the same family with coffee. It is a small shrub and does well in macetas. It is native to tropical and subtropical regions of Africa, Asia, Pacific Islands, and Australia.

Bugambilia (Bougainvillea glabra). English speakers call and spell it by its scientific name Bougainvillea. This plant is native to Brazil, and it has an interesting French connection. It was first described by Philibert Commerçon, who was the first botanist sponsored by a national government to accompany an exploratory voyage. The voyage, intended to circumnavigate the globe, was led by the French admiral Louis Antoine de Bougainville, so the newly-discovered plant was named for him. The name was included in the Genera Plantarum, the first published classification of plant materials, put together by the French botanist Antoine Laurent de Jussieu in 1789; the name was finally codified in the 1930s in the Index Kewensis Plantarum Phanerogamarum, the reference work maintained by Kew Gardens outside London.

Another interesting story – it is possible that the first European to describe this plant was actually the botanical expert Jeanne Baret, Commerçon’s partner and assistant. Because women were not allowed on ships, she disguised herself as a man and thus became the first woman to circumnavigate the globe. Women were at the time forbidden to be botanists, as plants are primarily identified and described by their reproductive parts, and that was considered scandalous.

Bugambilias thrive in full sun and sandy, well-drained soils. The colorful petals are not petals at all but bracts, or modified leaves; the central flower itself is small and inconspicuous. It has been cultivated for decades, with over 300 varieties available. This versatile, thorned plant can be pruned as a hedge, bush, or tree. Here in Huatulco, I planted two called sorpresa (surprise) since bracts are both pink and white. Although it is a tough plant, like many tropical ornamental plants, it is vulnerable to predation by leaf-cutting ants, known as hormigas arrieras, or muleteers, since they carry a burden of chewed off bracts and leaves back to their nests.

Carrizal means “place where the carrizos grow,” which would be a wetland or floodplain. And what indeed is carrizo? This is a type of large, stout grass and may have referred to several different plants, including grasses, rushes, cattails, and bulrushes, found primarily along riverine or riparian areas. Was this area indeed at some point a wetland? Not from what I have seen and read. It is considered an invasive plant in the U.S., controlled by fire and flooding along the Rio Grande.

East-West Streets (South to North)

Acacia (Acacia species). Acacias are a large group of trees and shrubs in the pea family, characterized by fern-like leaves and small ball-like white or yellow flowers. Plants in the pea family generally have a pea-like pod called a vaina in Spanish. There are a number of native species in Huatulco; some have spines, like the common Acacia cornigera (cuernitos, or “little horns”), which occurs at slightly higher elevation than the coast. This tree has prominent hollow spines in which resides a tiny ant with a nasty bite; they protect the tree from other plant-eating predators (herbivores) while receiving nutrition from the tree.

Ceiba (Ceiba pentandra). The ceiba tree, aka kapok, is in the same family with the pochote and the bailador (dancer), which we know in English as the shaving brush tree. In some places in Mexico, the ceiba is also known as pochote, but botanists see them as distinct in both genus and species, although both are in the Malvaceae family (see Pochote below).

The ceiba tree described here is a huge tree upon maturity, with a spiny, stout, single trunk, large fruits with tasty corn-like kernels/seeds that mature into a cotton-like fluff. The leaves are palm shaped. It was sacred to the Maya of eastern Mexico and Central America, as they believed it connected the heavens to the underworld through the earth. Along with the Guanacaste, this is one of the first trees you see in the median when approaching Huatulco from Highway 200. It is bat-pollinated and can live for hundreds of years. It is the national tree of Guatemala.

Cocotillo. I could not find a plant that corresponds to this common name, although it can be argued that it means “cultivated coconut.” Coco for “coconut” and tillado for “tilled” or “cultivated.” Might be a stretch.

Colorin (Erythrina coralloides). Like the acacia, this plant is in the pea family. It has a lovely almost tubular red flower that attracts butterflies and hummingbirds. The seeds are very poisonous.

Chacah (Bursera simaruba). Chacah is the Mayan name for this tree, aka gumbo limbo, with its peeling bark. This is a very interesting family of trees represented by 13 species in the Cacaluta watershed. They can often be distinguished by their peeling bark and berry-like red fruits, and large featherlike leaves. They are easily spotted in the landscape. The whimsical Oaxacan sculptures known as alebrije are from a related species, copal; the word copal originates from its Náhuatl name Copalquahuitl.

Flamboyan (Caesalpinia pulcherrima or Delonix regia). Like many common names, this one could be referring to two different plants. I am assuming it is the Caesalpinia pulcherrima, also known by another common name, tabachin. This colorful native tree has red/orange flowers and fern-like leaves, a long pea-pod fruit, as it is in the pea family. It attracts many pollinating insects and birds.

Guamuchil (Pithecelobium dulce). As the species name implies, this pea-family native has a sweet (dulce) fruit, pinkish on the inside, which attracts many species of birds, squirrels, and insects. It tends to grow near drainages and riparian areas. It can be found growing next to the huaje (Leucaena leucocephala) trees across the street from the Bladu’Yú restaurant near the entrance to Chahue beach.

Guanacastle (Enterolobium cyclocarpum). Also spelled guanacaste, this is a very large tree with a huge, broad, saucer-shaped canopy seen when entering La Crucecita south from Highway 200. It has a smooth bark, and unique ear-shaped fruits. With difficulty the seeds can be removed from the fruit and ground to produce a flour and then baked into delicious cookies (if you have a lot of free time). It is illegal to harvest here without a permit, and the wood can only be obtained through supposedly legal means and after natural senescence. The wood is beautiful, very hard, and bug resistant, even to termites. When cut and sanded it produces a somewhat toxic sawdust. It is the national tree of Costa Rica. Pura Vida!

Guarumbo (Cecropia obtusifolia). Although there is one in the garden of the Binniguenda hotel in Santa Cruz, this tree generally begins to appear in the next ecosystem north and away from the coast at a higher elevation, where vegetation is tropical and green all year (siempre verde = always green, like the Italian or Mediterranean cypress, Cupressus sempervirens). For house plant fans, it looks like a schefflera on steroids; if you visit Hagia Sofia or Pluma Hidalgo, you will see the tree shortly after leaving Santa María Huatulco on your way north. It is tall, with large leaves, and is easily distinguished from the surrounding landscape.

Macuitle. This appears to be a Hispanicized version of the Náhuatl word macuahuitl, which was a weapon of war, a wooden club with several embedded obsidian blades; the name means “hand-wood.” It was effectively used by the Mexica (Aztecs) against the invading Spaniards, as chronicled by Bernal Díaz de Castillo, a soldier in the army of Hernán Cortés, and the author of Historia Verdadura de la Conquista de la Nueva España (The True History of the Conquest of New Spain). Although I do not find that it corresponds to a particular tree, it was no doubt made of hardwood. According to Díaz and several other commentators, Aztec warriors could kill a horse with a single slash of the macuahuitl.

Macuil (Handroanthus impetiginosus, Tabebuia chrysantha, Tabebuia rosea). Ay yay yay yay. There are at least three of these magnificent flowering trees native to the area, all known as macuil, also spelled maquil, and all members of the Bignoniaceae family. They bloom at different times, with the yellow flowering trees lining Blvd Benito Juarez in the vicinity of La Bocana in January, and the pink/purplish flowering tree (Tabebuia rosea) dominating in March. The bright pink Handroanthus impetiginosus blooms in late October to mid-November. It is the national tree of Paraguay. All of them attract birds, particularly orioles.

Ocotillo (Cordia eleagnoides). This tree is locally known by another common name, parota, and is not to be confused with the cactus-like plants of the southwestern deserts of the United States of America. This native, moderate-sized tree lines Benito Juarez Blvd. east of La Crucecita from approximately Balcones de Tangolunda to La Bocana. It has a broad canopy with white flowers, and blooms twice a year. The wood, sometimes known as bocote, is hard, heavy, and insect resistant and is used in construction, particularly for the support structures of palapas.

Palma Real (Roystonea regia). As its common Spanish name implies, we know this tree as the royal palm, a tall, stately palm with a whitish trunk. It is native to the Caribbean, Mexico, Florida, and parts of Central America. It is the national tree of Cuba.

Palo Verde (Parkinsonia aculeata). The name means “green stick” in Spanish. Here we go again with confusing common names. Referring to my bible, Cátalogo de Nombres Vulgares y Cientificos de Plantas Mexicanas by Maximino Martínez (México: Fondo de Cultura Económico, 1979), there are eight trees that correspond to this name. The La Crucecita street name Palo Verde is most probably the one that grows in hot areas of Oaxaca, and not the one commonly found in southwestern United States. What the species have in common are the green trunks and branches, where photosynthesis occurs, providing essential carbohydrates (sugars) when the leaves drop from this deciduous plant.

Pochote (Ceiba aesculifolia). The multiple stemmed trunks have spines, but they are not as prominent as those of the ceiba. The flowers are large and before they emerge, the buds resemble those of the shaving brush tree, to which it is related.

Sabali. This was a tough one. Saba or sabal is a type of fan palm tree, or palmetto, found in tropical and subtropical climates (South Carolina, US, is called “The Palmetto State”). Sabalí, with an accent over the ‘i’, may be referring to a species of fig, or Ficus. The street name is NOT Sábila, so forgive me while I digress – you are sure to encounter sábila plants in Huatulco.

Sábila is Aloe vera (Aloe barbadensis miller), native to the Arabian Peninsula but happy in many tropical surroundings. “Aloe” comes from the Arabic alloeh, which means “bitter and shiny substance,” or from the Hebrew אוהלים ahalim, the aloes mentioned in the Old Testament. Aloe vera has medicinal properties and is applied externally to heal skin due to its mucilaginous texture and antiseptic properties. Taken internally it may improve digestion and support healthy blood sugar levels, but it can also cause digestive problems. It can also be used to seal cuttings of woody tropical plants, prolonging their storage, until they can be propagated directly in soil or in water.

Note: Mostly unrelated, but I wonder whether readers of The Eye have noticed that the National Park (Parque Nacional) has a new name. Recently big green signs have appeared along Highway 200 and other major thoroughfares with the new name for the park, Ricardo Flores Magón. Flores Magón was a well-known anarchist, socialist, activist, writer, and a major figure in the Mexican Revolution. Look him up.

Editor’s Letter

By Jane Bauer

“The savanna hypothesis
addresses the issue of how we select places to
live and why we find some landscapes more beautiful than others. The central argument is that our preferences in this domain were shaped over evolutionary time through the repeated selection of safe and healthy environments over dangerous
and resource poor landscapes.”
Kevin Bennett
Department of Psychology, Pennsylvania State

On a podcast I listened to recently, the interviewee suggested that each of us has a landscape that defines us. I hadn’t thought of looking at the world this way but it made a lot of sense. The chef being interviewed talked about his pull towards certain types of food and certain landscapes which, if he looked back far enough, were a part of his ancestry.

I wondered, what landscape am I? Where do I feel most at home? What are the sensations I crave; open desert spaces, high mountains, plains with grasses, the woods or the wide ocean and a sandy beach?

I didn’t have to think too hard. I am drawn to the forest and the jungle. I yearn to feel dwarfed by an army of majestic trees, small dirt paths, and rocky rivers that cleave and twist their the way between hills. I love seeing sunlight speckled through canopies of tree branches, Japanese has a word for this: komorebi.

When people ask me how I got here, I tell them about that first visit and the people I met. That something made me want to return, I try and find the words for it but they always seem to slip away. I don’t mention the landscape because it sounds sort of silly and fantastical, but that is what it really was. I came to this seam where the mountains kiss the ocean, it closed me in between the lapping waves and the darkness of its forest. It beckoned me down dirt paths and up river beds and waterfalls. Stay with me it said and I did.

This month our writers explore outdoor pursuits. We hope it encourages you to do a little exploring. If it does, please let us know via email or on our socials.

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Happy Exploring!

Web Cover photo by Ryan Murray Photo

Editor’s Letter

By Jane Bauer

“Identity is never singular but is multiply constructed across intersecting and antagonistic discourses, practices and positions.”
Stuart Hall

Who are you? What is the first trait you think of to describe yourself?

Is it your gender?
Is it your nationality?
Your race?
Perhaps a description of the kind of person you view yourself to be?

Tensions feel high lately. Not only in the world we see through our phones and television, but in real life. The conflicts across the world remain a safe distance away, beyond our ability to affect change, other than voicing our outrage and hoping we fall on the right side of history.

There are tensions closer to home, things we can do something about. On the outer edges are the migrants, avoiding the immigration officials as they move towards the unknown. Inside our bubble we cling to our opinions about the situation- no, not just the situation- we cling to our opinions about the people- how we imagine them to be, where we imagine they have come from and where they are going.

On the inner edge we have tensions between the outsiders: the travelers, tourists, digital nomads, snowbirds, expats and gringos versus the locals, nationals, long-term residents, the “Mexico experts,” who are pushing back. Blame for everything that seems to be going wrong is thrown around like a tennis ball or maybe I should say like a pickelball.

Last year I was sitting at my favorite sushi haunt in Terminal 2 of CDMX when the man on the stool beside me attempted to engage me in conversation. I am not the kind of traveler who enjoys idle chitchat with strangers. He was undeterred and proceeded to tell me with a hint of pride that he had been living in Oaxaca City for the past eight years.
‘That’s nice,” I responded out of politeness.
“Where do you live?” he persisted.
“On the coast.”
“How long have you been there?”
“Twenty-six years,” I said turning back to enjoy my unagi.
“Oh. You win I guess,” he said.
“It’s not a contest,” I replied.

People are always having conversations like these, asserting their identity and experience to justify their entitlements and points of view. But who are you really? Take away the cloak of where you happened to be born, where you live, your job, your religion, your gender, the amount of stuff you have collected on your journey and the opinions you have formed, based on the information you have. When you strip those things away, what are you really entitled to, that someone else isn’t?

Aren’t we all just minnows in a school of fish moving through the water on the momentum of each other?

March is usually our Women’s Issue. However, in the spirit of shedding our identities, rather than clinging to them so fiercely, I am calling this the ‘Achievement Issue’. Our writers have profiled people whose accomplishments are inspiring.

See you next month,

Jane