Tag Archives: History & Traditions

Sensory Sensitivity Meets Cultural Reality in Mexico

By Kary Vannice

For the sensory sensitive traveler, Mexico can be a challenge. If you’re planning to visit, or stay for a while, no doubt you’re already anticipating the delicious spicy food, warm hospitality, and the vibrant colorful culture that Mexico is known for. But there are some very real sensory and cultural differences that some foreigners aren’t prepared for until they come face to face with them. Being unprepared can turn something delightful into something disorienting or even disturbing, depending on your level of preparation and understanding. The key to truly enjoying Mexican culture isn’t to try to change it to suit your comfort zone—but to shift your expectations and adapt to your surroundings.

Even if you don’t identify as particularly sensory sensitive, Mexico may still throw you a few cultural curveballs, so knowing how to deal with them gracefully and respectfully in advance can mean you get to have a good time and you don’t have to ask Mexico not to be Mexico.

It won’t take long before you realize that most of Mexico is loud (at least by foreign standards). Whether it’s music blasting from a nearby store or café, fireworks before sunrise for a saint’s day celebration, or street vendors shouting their daily offerings through a loudspeaker—Mexico is a full-on auditory experience.

Celebration is a part of everyday life in Mexico. Music, fireworks, parades, and community gatherings often involve sound levels that would be considered noise violations in other countries. Most Mexicans aren’t conditioned to need silence to relax, so there are no “quiet hours.” These sounds aren’t disturbances—they’re expressions of joy. It’s Mexicans living their best life, and when foreigners insist on lowering the volume or making complaints, they are asking the locals to lessen their enjoyment of life.

But there are ways to cope. First, pay attention to daily rhythms—afternoon siesta often brings a lull and can be a great time to rest. If you see a party, join in instead of resisting. Mexicans are some of the most welcoming people on the planet and live by the ethos: the more the merrier. If you’re sensitive to sound, invest in quality earplugs or noise-canceling headphones. And most important, accept that the noise isn’t a cultural flaw—it’s a feature.

Another sensory difference that might catch you off guard is personal space—or the lack of it. In many Mexican communities, people naturally stand closer together, touch more often, and greet others with a hug or kiss on the cheek, even if you’ve only just met. For someone from another culture, this can feel like an invasion of space.

The local culture places high value on connection and warmth. Touch is seen as a sign of respect and caring, not a threat to autonomy or an invasion of space. Physical closeness indicates trust. But, if you don’t feel comfortable touching or even standing close to people you don’t know, Mexico can be a challenge.

It’s important to keep in mind that their perception of personal space is different from yours, so they genuinely won’t understand your discomfort. Relax your body when your personal space is invaded and set gentle boundaries after you build rapport but do it with humor and kindness. Mexicans love to joke around and are quick to laugh if you keep things light. It can also help to simply observe the locals as they move in and around each other. You’ll soon see that they are as warm with strangers as they are with family. You’ll likely learn to appreciate the beauty and tenderness of these simple gestures.

Time might not have a sensory quality, but for many of us, punctuality is a deeply ingrained expectation. And in Mexico, this will likely present a greater challenge than either noise or touch. Time here is flexible, fluid … and often late.

You may arrive at a dinner party “on time” and find you’re the only person there for the first hour. A plumber who promised to arrive “a las diez” might show up at noon. In Mexico, time is more suggestion than commandment.

This isn’t about disrespect. It’s simply that Mexican culture prioritizes relationships over rigid scheduling. Things unfold when they unfold. Trying to force your sense of urgency onto that rhythm rarely works, and often backfires. Taking it personally is pointless. Complaining about it won’t change deeply embedded cultural beliefs and ways of being. Complaining about lateness or feeling personally offended will only hurt you, because from a cultural perspective, no offense has occurred.

The best solution? Build in “buffer” time. Don’t schedule back-to-back commitments counting on things to run on time. Use this time to your advantage by always carrying a book, podcast or magazine with you. It’s a chance to loosen your grip on control and start living a little more in the moment, like the locals do.

If on your travels you find yourself wishing things were quieter, more spacious, or more “efficient” … pause. Take a minute to recognize that the discomfort you’re feeling isn’t a sign that something is wrong with Mexico. It’s a sign that your cultural expectations are being stretched.

Take a breath and remind yourself: this is the whole point of travel…growth, expansion, and understanding.

The most meaningful experiences come not from controlling your environment, but from surrendering to it. From witnessing a culture on its own terms, not yours. From expanding your comfort zone, not policing everyone else’s.

Allow the experience with openness, curiosity, humility, and a willingness to be changed.

Because if you let it, Mexico will not only surprise you; it will transform you.

Things to See and Do in Mexico City

By Jane Bauer

1. Soumaya Museum
One of the best museums in the world, its iconic, futuristic design, covered in hexagonal aluminum tiles, houses over 66,000 artworks. The museum features diverse collections, including pre-Hispanic artifacts, European art, and modern Mexican works. Admission is free, making it accessible to all. Named after Carlos Slim’s late wife, it’s a must-visit destination for art, history, and design enthusiasts.

2. National Museum of Anthropology
Considered one of the finest museums in the world, this is an essential stop to truly understand Mexico’s rich cultural and historical tapestry. Its impressive architecture leads to exhibits that showcase pre-Columbian civilizations, such as the Aztecs, Mayans, Olmecs, and Toltecs. The iconic Aztec Sun Stone and intricate Mayan artifacts are highlights. Set aside plenty of time to wander through its spacious halls and lush courtyards..

3. Zócalo (Plaza de la Constitución)
The heart of Mexico City, the Zócalo, is one of the largest city squares in the world and a hub of Mexican history and culture. Visit the Metropolitan Cathedral, which blends baroque and neoclassical styles. Don’t miss the National Palace, home to Diego Rivera’s monumental murals depicting Mexico’s history. The square comes alive during festivals and events, such as Día de los Muertos and Independence Day celebrations.

4. Frida Kahlo Museum (La Casa Azul)
Located in the charming neighborhood of Coyoacán, this museum is a tribute to the life and work of iconic Mexican artist Frida Kahlo. The “Blue House,” where she was born and later lived with Diego Rivera, is filled with her personal belongings, artwork, and fascinating memorabilia. The lush garden and bright blue walls create an intimate setting that provides insight into her artistic and personal world.

5. Teotihuacán Pyramids
Just a short drive from the city, the ancient city of Teotihuacán is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most significant archaeological sites in Mexico. Walk along the Avenue of the Dead, climb the Pyramid of the Sun for a breathtaking view, and explore the Pyramid of the Moon. The site’s history remains mysterious, with roots that predate the Aztecs, who later adopted and revered it.

6. Roma and Condesa Neighborhoods
Known for their bohemian vibe, these trendy areas offer charming streets, Art Deco architecture, boutique shops, art galleries, and excellent restaurants and cafes.

7. Vasconcelos Library
This “Megabiblioteca,” is a stunning blend of architecture and literature. Designed by Alberto Kalach, its futuristic structure features floating bookshelves, lush gardens, and open spaces that inspire creativity. Housing over 600,000 volumes, it’s both a cultural and architectural marvel. Named after philosopher José Vasconcelos, it’s a haven for book lovers and a symbol of Mexico’s dedication to knowledge and innovation.

8. Palacio de Bellas Artes
This cultural gem is an architectural masterpiece, combining Art Nouveau and Art Deco styles. Inside, the main hall is adorned with a Tiffany stained-glass curtain, and the upper levels house murals by renowned Mexican artists like Diego Rivera. The venue hosts performances ranging from ballet to opera, making it an epicenter for the arts. Even if you don’t catch a show, the building is worth visiting for its beauty alone.

9. San Juan Market (Mercado de San Juan)
Food lovers won’t want to miss this iconic market, famous for its wide variety of gourmet and exotic foods. You’ll find everything from fresh seafood and high-quality meats to exotic ingredients like edible insects. It’s a great place to try authentic Mexican dishes or even sample international flavors. The lively atmosphere and bustling stalls make it a feast for the senses.

10. Torre Latinoamericana
Once the tallest building in Mexico City, this iconic skyscraper is a testament to the city’s resilience, having withstood several major earthquakes. Head to the observation deck for stunning panoramic views of the sprawling metropolis, especially beautiful at sunset or after dark when the city lights twinkle. There’s also a café and a small museum to enjoy while you take in the sights.

7. Vasconcelos Library
This “Megabiblioteca,” is a stunning blend of architecture and literature. Designed by Alberto Kalach, its futuristic structure features floating bookshelves, lush gardens, and open spaces that inspire creativity. Housing over 600,000 volumes, it’s both a cultural and architectural marvel. Named after philosopher José Vasconcelos, it’s a haven for book lovers and a symbol of Mexico’s dedication to knowledge and innovation.

8. Palacio de Bellas Artes
This cultural gem is an architectural masterpiece, combining Art Nouveau and Art Deco styles. Inside, the main hall is adorned with a Tiffany stained-glass curtain, and the upper levels house murals by renowned Mexican artists like Diego Rivera. The venue hosts performances ranging from ballet to opera, making it an epicenter for the arts. Even if you don’t catch a show, the building is worth visiting for its beauty alone.

9. San Juan Market (Mercado de San Juan)
Food lovers won’t want to miss this iconic market, famous for its wide variety of gourmet and exotic foods. You’ll find everything from fresh seafood and high-quality meats to exotic ingredients like edible insects. It’s a great place to try authentic Mexican dishes or even sample international flavors. The lively atmosphere and bustling stalls make it a feast for the senses.

10. Torre Latinoamericana
Once the tallest building in Mexico City, this iconic skyscraper is a testament to the city’s resilience, having withstood several major earthquakes. Head to the observation deck for stunning panoramic views of the sprawling metropolis, especially beautiful at sunset or after dark when the city lights twinkle. There’s also a café and a small museum to enjoy while you take in the sights.

“You Say You Want a Revolution” — Literature That Imparts History

By Carole Reedy

Revolution: A forcible overthrow of a government or social order, in favor of a new system.
— Oxford Languages

History written as literature is a popular genre, providing the reader with knowledge of the past in the context of fine writing. American novelist, screenwriter, playwright, and actor Truman Capote created this new way of looking at actual events in his true-crime novel In Cold Blood in 1966.

The following books are among the best examples of this style. Some are recognized as historical fiction and some as nonfiction, but all are written with the style and flair that these well-established writers bring to a subject. Each covers a different and significant period and place in time. Reading them not only allows us to engage with the past, but also gives us the opportunity to reflect on its effect on our daily life and decisions.

Revolution, by Arturo Pérez-Reverte (2022)
“All my life I heard at home the story of that friend of my great-grandfather, a mining engineer, who worked in Mexico in the midst of the revolution. That remote memory has brought me closer to my own relationship with adventure and has led me to write this story. It is a novel of initiation and learning and is, in some way, my own biography of youth. It is my Golden Arrow.” Arturo Pérez-Reverte

Revolution is among the 30-some Pérez-Reverte (1951 – ) novels that readers devour every year. His popularity seems easy to grasp. Since we all suspect that truth is stranger than fiction, his preferred genre, historical fiction, resonates with people of all classes and cultures worldwide. Pérez-Reverte combines plot and characterization to perfection, often including a dollop of humor.

The Revolution in question here is our own Mexican Revolution (1910-1921) in the time of Zapata and Pancho Villa. The focus is not simply on fighting and war, but rather on finding a treasure consisting of 15,000 twenty-peso Maximilian gold coins that had been stolen from a bank in Ciudad Juárez in 1911.

One reader praises the breadth of the book: Pérez-Reverte “takes us through important episodes such as the capture of Ciudad Juárez, the Ten Tragic Days, the battles of Zacatecas and Celaya. The narrative is so good that one is transported in places and times to understand a process as complex as the Mexican Revolution. Highly recommended reading.”

Pérez-Reverte is Spanish, born in Cartagena, Spain, and while many of his novels concern Spain and the Mediterranean, his books are read in more than 50 countries. As you celebrate the Mexican Revolution this November 20, crack open this important read!

Hilary Mantel (1952-2022) asserted that “We don’t reproduce the past, we create it.” In 2017, Mantel gave the Reith Lectures (the BBC’s annual lecture series featuring significant intellectual figures).  Addressing “the aims, ideals, constraints and critiques of historical fiction, and the challenges that writers face,” Mantel observed that readers are “actively requesting a subjective interpretation” of the historical evidence.  The writer’s job is “to recreate the texture of lived experience: to activate the senses, and to deepen the reader’s engagement through feeling”
Many of us deeply enjoyed Mantel’s three novels Wolf Hall (2009), Bring Up the Bodies (2012), and The Mirror and the Light (2020), which transported us, through the eyes of the ever-crafty Thomas Cromwell, into Henry the Eighth’s tumultuous kingdom.
Mantel’s sometimes forgotten novels live up to the esteemed reputation she enjoyed after the publication of the Cromwell trilogy. Among her earlier works and one of the most formidable, A Place of Greater Safety ensconces us in the French Revolution though the eyes of its three heroes. It is my favorite of her many powerful novels.
It’s hard to believe Mantel had trouble finding a publisher for this significant contribution to the literature of the French Revolution. By telling us the complicated history of the Revolution through the eyes of Georges Jacques Danton, Camille Desmoulins, and Maximilien Robespierre, Mantel humanizes the major players on both sides, allowing us to relate to them and to the Revolution itself.
“Hilary shares her strict adherence to historical facts; her frustration with the gaps in the historical record; and her preoccupation with French 18th-century drawing room wallpaper. She explains how familiar events from history can be transformed into surprising new dramas when a point of view is changed; and how the unknowns – what her characters think or feel – is where her creativity did its work” (author Katie Ward, “Hilary Mantel was my mentor. Here are seven things she taught me about writing – and life,” The Guardian [September 19, 2024]).

Age of Revolutions: Progress and Backlash from 1600 to the Present, by Fareed Zakaria (2024)
Most of us recognize Zakaria (1964 – ) as the face of CNN’s popular show Fareed Zakaria GPS (Global Public Square). You may also have read his popular column in The Washington Post or seen his profile on the jacket of his books. Zakaria inspires trust, and his faithful admirers look to him for guidance in our complicated world.

This significant book covers five centuries of history to explain the world’s current state of affairs. It advises us to understand how the French Revolution, the Industrial Revolution, and the American Revolution affect our current situation.

Evelyn Waugh wrote in Brideshead Revisited: “We possess nothing certainly except the past.” And it is this from which we must learn, although it doesn’t appear we are doing a very good job of it.

Another Day of Life, by Ryszard Kapuściński (Polish edition 1976, English translation 1987)
There is nothing more satisfying than discovering an author whose creations spark curiosity about the conditions of other cultures. For years the Polish journalist, writer, poet, and essayist Kapuściński (1932-2007) gave us a wealth of knowledge and, more importantly, a glimpse into the suffering of “the other.”

He could also be correctly crowned the king of revolutions, having reported in his lifetime on 27 revolutions, mostly in Africa and the Middle East.

In 1975 Kapuscinski reported on the civil war following independence in Angola. His book Another Day of Life describes the “sloppy, dogged and cruel war.” An animated film was made from the book. Both book and movie demonstrate the abysmal effect of war on the populations that suffer through them.

Kapuscinski is best known for The Emperor: Downfall of an Autocrat (1978), the story of the 40-plus year reign of Haile Selassie in Ethiopia. Observations related to Kapuscinski by those who worked for Selassie or lived during his rule describe a man who lived like a king among the neglected population that served him.

In another gem, the story of the infamous Shah of Iran is told in his best-selling Shah of Shahs (1992), which assesses the reign of the Shah of Iran and his exit from the country.

In Ryszard Kapuściński, the Nobel Prize committee once again missed the opportunity to recognize an important writer who traveled and reported on world areas in the turmoil of revolution.

Say Nothing: A True Story of Murder and Memory in Northern Ireland, by Patrick Radden Keefe (2019)
The Irish Revolutionary Army dominated the world news for years in the 1980s and 90s, though its many factions and rumors of the era can be confusing. Through a main story and its accompanying sidebars in this marvelously crafted piece of literature, Radden Keefe sets up and describes this era from a variety of perspectives, via the citizens involved as well as the hidden nuances that make up this history.

The true and brutal action begins on the first page with the kidnapping of Jean McConville, a mother of ten wee weans in Belfast, Ireland, in 1972. From there the story expands into a narrative that includes an explanation of the seemingly endless conflicts in Ireland.

Recognizable major players are highlighted in this long history of clashes between Catholics and Protestants, as well as the presence of the British government in the north of the island. Through the actions of Gerry Adams, Bobby Sands, and Dolours Price, the story of the various factions is told.

Radden Keefe (1976 – ) is well regarded for his accurate account of pertinent historical eras and the people behind the history. The book was named one of the top ten books of 2019 by both The New York Times Book Review and The Washington Post. It won the 2019 National Book Critics Circle Award for nonfiction. Radden Keefe knows how to take facts and weave a story of grand proportion that kept this reader on the very edge of her seat.

Radden Keefe’s Empire of Pain: The Secret History of the Sackler Dynasty (2021) received well-deserved attention more recently, as did the book-based Netflix series Painkiller (2023); both tell the story of how the pharmaceutical industry created a nationwide opioid addiction for its own profit.

¡VIVA LA REVOLUCIÓN!

 

Copalita Eco-Archaeological Park Reopening

By Jane Bauer

When my mum, an avid birdwatcher, comes for a visit we always make sure to take a walk through the Copalita Eco-Archaeological Park. Sadly, for the last couple of years it has been closed due to damage to the main museum building from the earthquakes and most likely government bureaucracy. The park which is a stunning blend of nature and history, has recently reopened its doors, inviting visitors to explore its rich cultural heritage and lush landscapes. Nestled along the Pacific coast of Oaxaca, just south of Huatulco, the park showcases Zapotec ruins dating back over 3000 years, making it a vital site for understanding pre-hispanic civilization.

After a temporary closure, part of the park has reopened. The museum building which houses artefacts found in the area is still closed. However, an exhibition of nature photography on display around the welcome center is interesting and worth seeing. The park offers an immersive experience, where visitors can wander through archaeological remains, including ceremonial platforms and intricate stone carvings. The trails wind through tropical forests, leading to panoramic views of the Copalita River and the ocean, making it a perfect destination for nature lovers and history enthusiasts alike. The park is a haven for biodiversity. Bird watchers will be delighted by the numerous species that call this area home. You can also spot iguanas, deer, and a variety of plant species.

One of the park’s highlights is the lookout point that offers breathtaking views of Bocana, where the Copalita River meets the Pacific Ocean. This strategic location is believed to have served as an observation post for ancient civilizations, allowing them to monitor coastal activities. The park also emphasizes sustainability and conservation.

The Copalita Eco-Archaeological Park stands as a testament to the rich tapestry of Oaxaca’s past and its commitment to a sustainable future. With its reopening, it invites everyone to experience the beauty of its landscapes and the depth of its history, offering a unique glimpse into the cultural legacy of the region.

Visitor Information
Opening Hours: Daily, 8:00 AM – 4:00 PM

Admission Costs: Adults: $50 MXN; Children (under 12): Free; Discounts for students and seniors.

Location: Between Bocana and Copalita

How to Get There: Accessible by car, bus, taxi, scooter, walkable from Secrets hotel or Bocana. This is a wonderful opportunity to explore Oaxaca’s natural beauty and rich history!

From Book to Movie: The Best of Both Worlds

By Carole Reedy

We often hear it said that a movie was good, but the book was better, the film version seldom exceeding or even equaling a book’s impact on us. Here I propose a few exceptions to the rule. Each of the books below depicts life in Mexico; each was written by an established literary author and has been carefully crafted into an entertaining movie that also illuminates the author’s original purpose.

Prayers for the Stolen, by Jennifer Clement (2020)
Film: Prayers for the Stolen (2021, written and directed by Tatiana Huezo)

Jennifer Clement is a name every reader of Mexican literature should know. Former President of PEN Mexico, as well as the first and only woman President of PEN International, Clement continues to investigate and dissect the culture, problems, history, and joys of this land, one of the most culturally diverse and mysterious, and yet friendliest, countries in the world.

At the same time, Clement is a woman of the world who has experienced life on both sides of the border. Clement’s themes are diverse, perhaps due to the adventurous and culturally rich life she leads. Her books are always recommended in this column, and she is a highly regarded citizen of CDMX.

Clement’s newest book, The Promised Party: Kahlo, Basquiat, and Me, is hot off the press (May 2024). It is her own story of her rebellious childhood (the only girl to get booted out of Girl Guides!) in Mexico City to her New York adventures with famous artists. Her antics take you to all the nooks and crannies of Mexico City and New York: a wonderful guide and history of these two preeminent cities wrapped up in a cleverly crafted memoir.

Prayers for the Stolen takes us from the remote hills of the state of Guerrero to the ritzy coast of Acapulco and ends in the magical megalopolis of Mexico City. It’s about a life lived under the shadow of the narcotraficantes that dominate and ruin the future of women they kidnap even if the girls are lucky enough to escape.

Clement’s depiction of and empathy with the seemingly hopeless situation are genuine. She has visited these women in Mexico City’s worst prison to hear the stories of the narco presence in their communities: the fear if they stay or the equally dangerous prospect of running away, sometimes only to an equal or even worse fate. Clement’s style is reminiscent of that of Truman Capote or Tom Wolfe, pioneers of a “new journalism” in which the author writes from the inside out instead of viewing the subject from afar. Her Widow Basquiat: A Love Affair (the 2014 “prequel” to The Promised Party) is a fine example of this.

The movie version of Prayers for The Stolen (Noche del Fuego) can be seen on Netflix. It has received more than 20 international awards: Cannes Film Festival, Un Certain Regard, Honorific Mention; Best Director, Best Picture, Athens Film Festival; Best director, Stockholm International; Best Mexican Feature, Guanajuato Film Festival.

Battles in the Desert, by José Emilio Pacheco (1981)
Film: Mariana, Mariana (1987, written by Pacheco and Vicente Leñero, directed by Alberto Isaac)

Among my favorite Mexican stories is this novella written 43 years ago by one of the nation’s most treasured writers. The book is to Mexican culture what J.D. Salinger’s Catcher in the Rye (1951) or Harper Lee’s To Kill A Mockingbird (1960) is to American life. New York Times book critic Molly Young perhaps said it best: “How can such a tiny novella contain so many lessons on perception?”

The novel is set in 1948 in the now trendy Mexico City neighborhood of La Roma, Pacheco’s childhood home. Through the eyes of a young boy named Carlos, we experience a changing city, moving from the traditional values of his family to a global modernization of the culture and world around him.

The award-winning movie version, Mariana, Mariana, was filmed in part in La Roma. A commenter on MUBI, a site that specializes in art films, noted that “Literary films are difficult, but Isaac nails this one, and doesn’t hesitate to add some extra flourishes: Freudian psychotherapy…; the growth of the city and the demolition of the old Roma Norte; the 1985 earthquake; gringo invasion; the senescence of the Revolutionary state and its descent into dirty politics, embezzlement, and inequity.” Mariana, Mariana is available for viewing on Amazon Prime.

Like Water for Chocolate, by Laura Esquivel (1989)
Film: Like Water for Chocolate (1992, written by Esquivel, directed by Alfonso Arau)

This is one title that probably came to fame first as a movie and afterwards as a popular novel, despite the book’s being published a couple of years before the film was made. The film proved to be a box office hit. Years ago, I was advised by my favorite Spanish teacher that my spoken Spanish would never improve without writing and reading. One of the first novels she assigned me to read in Spanish was Like Water for Chocolate.

Most dominant and significant in the learning process was my introduction to the subjective (not a tense, but a mood) in Spanish. Shadows of the book still cloud my mind when reading or speaking the subjunctive. I also recommend Leonora by Elena Poniatowska (2015) as a good tool for Spanish students. This novelization of the fascinating life of Leonara Carrington is unequaled and will compel you to master the Spanish.

The book and movie style of Like Water for Chocolate is magical realism in a nation at the beginning of the 20th century, a time of turmoil. Tradition and the family figure predominately, as does the Mexican Revolution.

The movie earned ten awards at Mexico’s Oscars, the Ariel Awards, including Best Picture, and a Golden Globe Award for Best Foreign Language Film. Like Water for Chocolate was the highest-grossing foreign language film shown in the U.S. up to that time. It remains at #10.

The Old Gringo, by Carlos Fuentes (1985)
Film: Old Gringo (1989, written by Aida Bortnik and Luis Puenzo, directed by Puenzo)

Carlos Fuentes is undoubtedly one of the most influential and universally respected authors in Mexican literature. In his obituary, the New York Times described Fuentes as “one of the most admired writers in the Spanish-speaking world” and an important influence on the “Latin American Boom,” the “explosion of Latin American literature in the 1960s and ’70s.” Fuentes was often regarded as a likely candidate for the Nobel Prize for Literature, but sadly, as with Javier Marías and Philip Roth, an untimely death intervened.

The Old Gringo was more successful as a novel than the film, which starred Gregory Peck, Jane Fonda, and Jimmy Smits. Fuentes has said, “What started this novel was my admiration for [American journalist Ambrose Bierce] and for his Tales of Soldiers and Civilians [orig. pub. 1892]. I was fascinated with the idea of a man who fought in the United States Civil War and dies in a Mexican civil war.”

And that is exactly what Fuentes gives us in this exciting historical and tragic chapter in Mexican history.

Pedro Páramo, by Juan Rulfo (1955)
Film: Pedro Páramo (1967, written by Rulfo, Carlos Fuentes, and Manuel Barbachano Ponce; directed by Carlos Velo.

Pedro Páramo is THE classic novel of Mexican literature; remarkably, it was Rulfo’s first novel.

“I came to Comala because I was told that my father, a certain Pedro Páramo, lived here. My mother told me this. And I promised her that I would come to see him as soon as she died.” Every Mexican knows these opening sentences of the novel.

Writers like Jorge Luis Borges, Gabriel García Márquez, and Susan Sontag cite Pedro Páramo as one of the most significant works of literature of all time. A survey of writers and students worldwide by the Nobel Prize Institute of Sweden included it as one of the 100 works that constitute the core of the universal heritage of literature.

Gabriel García Márquez claimed he could recite the entire book cover to cover, demonstrating the importance of this short novel in his own writing.

The story appears to be straightforward: a man returning to a once-thriving city that now appears to be ghost town, along with the people who inhabit it. But it is Rulfo’s nonlinear style and form that capture the essence of the tale. You may find yourself confused – which characters are dead, which alive? Time shifts, as does the flow of memory, as we are absorbed into the world of Pedro Páramo.

Ironically, the book sold very few copies when published, and fame came only later. You can view the film on Netflix; to this day, it receives excellent reviews, though most viewers suggest you read the book first. A new version of the film has been produced by Netflix; written by Mateo Gil and directed by Rodrigo Prieto, it premiered at the Toronto International Film Festival in September. It will be released on Netflix later this year.

Hurricane Season, by Fernanda Melchor (2017)
Film: Hurricane Season (2023, written by Melchor, Daniela Gómez, and Elisa Miller; directed by Elisa Miller)

The death of a witch is a hell of a way to begin a novel. But Fernanda Melchor knows just where she’s going with a story that takes place in a small village in coastal Veracruz.

Written in a Faulkneresque style (Melchor abhors periods) with a touch of Chilean author Roberto Bolaño, the novel recounts in a “linguistic torrent” and hypnotic rhythm the story of how and why the witch lived and died in a desperately poor little Mexican town. Most reviews recognize Melchor’s command of the language in her use of rough language to describe violence and depravity and her ability to express pain and despair. Equal praise has been showered on her English translator, Sophie Hughes.

The story is told by four “unreliable narrators,” that is, people who have only a partial, often distorted, view of what’s going on as local citizens attempt to determine who killed the witch and how to handle the extreme evil lurking everywhere.

To give you an example of the popularity of this novel, I am currently on a 20-week waitlist for the English translation. You can view the equally regarded film on Netflix.

“One glance at a book and you hear the voice of another person, perhaps someone dead for 1,000 years. To read is to voyage through time.” – Carl Sagan

5 things: Polanco CDMX

By Sophia Canavati

Polanco, a dynamic neighborhood in Mexico City, offers a unique blend of luxurious accommodations, culinary delights, and cultural attractions. Whether you’re seeking a cozy retreat or an adventure through local flavors and history, Polanco has something for everyone. Here are five must-know highlights for your stay in this exciting area.

Stay:
Orchid House:
A charming boutique hotel that blends the warmth of home with the sophistication of high-end hospitality. Each room is thoughtfully designed, creating an intimate environment that feels both relaxing and luxurious, making it a perfect base for exploring the neighborhood of Polanco.
http://www.orchidhousehotels.com

Visit:
Chapultepec Castle
Perched atop a hill in Chapultepec Park, this castle offers a glimpse into Mexico’s history and stunning panoramic views. Once a royal residence, the castle now houses a museum filled with artifacts and artwork. Explore its lush gardens and opulent interiors for a memorable outing that combines culture, history, and breathtaking scenery.

Jumex Museum
Contemporary art space that showcases an impressive collection of modern works, making it a vital part of Mexico City’s cultural landscape. With rotating exhibitions featuring both local and international artists, this museum offers an engaging environment for art lovers. Its sleek architecture and commitment to promoting innovative art make it a compelling destination for those looking to explore the cutting edge of the art world.

Eat
La Docena:
An oyster bar and grill that puts the spotlight on fresh, high-quality ingredients. This eatery showcases the best of Mexico’s seafood and employs refined techniques to enhance the natural flavors of each dish. Diners can indulge in a variety of oysters, ceviches, and grilled specialties, all presented with a touch of elegance that celebrates the culinary heritage of the region.

El Turix:
For a more traditional taqueria experience, this is the local go-to spot for authentic cochinita pibil and tamales. Each bite of their succulent cochinita, wrapped in soft tortillas, transports you to the heart of Yucatecan cuisine, making it a must-visit for taco enthusiasts.

 

Editor’s Letter

By Jane Bauer

“What’s the point of being an Australian guy traveling through India if you are going to go to India to meet other Australians?”
Alfonso Cuaron

My first experience with movies in Mexico was when the traveling movie caravan came to Mazunte while I was living there in 1997. They set up a tent in the field by the elementary school and showed a double feature of an old Mexican black and white film and Die Hard. Everyone in the village came out since most people didn’t have electricity, let alone televisions. The chance to watch something was a novelty.

When the first theater in Huatulco opened at Plaza Madero in the early 2000s it felt like we were being vaulted into modern times. I love movies so much that when I was pregnant I would make the two-hour drive from Puerto Angel to Huatulco to rent videos- not DVDs- because the selection was better than what was available in Pochutla.

While many people love to immerse themselves in Mexican culture through tacos and tequila, film is often overlooked because of the language barrier. But I believe film is a wonderful way to begin to understand the nuances and attitudes of a culture.

In this issue our writers explore Mexican cinema and there are enough amazing films mentioned to keep you busy but I can’t resist recommending a few more.

La Caida (Dive) 2022
Beautiful cinematography contrasts the precision of profesional diving with the subtleties of grooming by a seasoned abuser. Inspired by the true story of the sexual and mental abuse allegations on the Mexican diving team. Karla Souza, the Mexican actress who plays the lead, trained for three years to portray the Olympic diver.

Güeros (Gueros) 2014
Filmed in black and white, the cinematography captures the wildness, chaos and freedom of youth in the 90s. I was hooked from the opening scene. Two brothers go searching for folk-rocker Epigmenio Cruz on the streets of Mexico City during the student strikes of 1999.

La gran seducción (The Great Seduction) 2023
This fun movie is about a big city doctor sent to a small fishing village that has suffered economic hardship. The residents think that if the doctor decides to stay it will improve their circumstances and set about to woo him. This is a remake of a Canadian film that was first made in 2003 and then again in 2013.

See you in November,

Jane

Mexican Films Streaming on your TV

By Marcia Chaiken and Jan Chaiken

Those of us who love Mexican cinema but spend months away from Mexico have an excellent source for fulfilling our yen for Mexican film – namely, Netflix. The films available for streaming on Netflix come and go, and differ from country to country, but there are always ample choices. For primarily English speakers the subtitles available on Netflix offer an easier experience than seeing the movie in Mexico.

Some of the best known films that have won worldwide acclaim are 100% Mexican, including geographical location, direction, casting, Spanish language, and especially creative imagination. An excellent relatively recent example is the 2018 dramatic film Roma, directed by Alfonso Cuarón. Winning many international awards, Roma accurately depicts a well-known neighborhood of Mexico City in the 1970s.

Other Netflix films that we consider Mexican have Mexican directors who are internationally acclaimed but take place only partially in Mexico. One such film is the 2006 psychological thriller Babel, directed by Alejandro Gonzáles Iñarritu. In addition to Spanish, Babel includes seven other spoken languages, plus Japanese sign language. Two top-notch films, Pan’s Labyrinth (2006) and The Shape of Water (2017), can only be considered Mexican by virtue of their director, Guillermo del Toro. Del Toro’s films are literally fantastic, compelling, and so rooted in an imagination shaped by his childhood in Guadalajara that we would call them Mexican even though some might argue with that classification. On the other hand, the film Gravity (2013), although also directed by Alfonso Cuarón, seems more American than Mexican.

But enough about the blockbusters. The films that we have been most enjoying on Netflix are little, low-budget glimpses into solidly Mexican characters in recognizably Mexican locations. We both liked the 2023 film Familia, directed by Rodrigo García. Filmed in the Valle de Guadalupe in Ensenada, the action takes place in a single day in the home and olive grove of the patriarch of a three-generation dispersed family. We learn that the family gets together once a month for comida, but at this gathering everyone’s life is so suddenly changing that difficult decisions must be made. The characters are complex and charming, even when they become irritated with each other. Gradually, by listening to their conversations around the table, you realize the depth and substance of each family member and their relationships. By the end of the film, as most characters leave, you know you’re going to miss them.

Marcia liked Where the Tracks End (El Ultimo Vagon, 2023, directed by Ernesto Contreras), while Jan thought it was a snooze. The film predominantly takes place in an abandoned railroad car, fitted out as a schoolhouse. It is slow-moving but charmingly develops the relationship between a child of an itinerant railroad track layer and a teacher whose whole life is dedicated to educating some of the most impoverished children in Mexico. There are both tragic and comic moments, and the film unabashedly pulls at your heart strings. The ending provides a satisfying twist.

The film Tell Me When (Dime Cuando Tú, 2020, directed by Gerardo Gatica González) is a light, feel-good movie about a young man living in Los Angeles. His grandfather leaves him a list of experiences that the grandson is urged to complete in Mexico City. Most of the film takes place in iconic areas in CDMX and focuses on his determination to complete the list, including the last item (spoiler alert!) falling in love. But don’t expect a Hollywood ending: it’s a Mexican film after all.

There are plenty of Mexican films on Netflix to keep us happily watching for many years, but confining ourselves to Netflix would mean missing other Mexican treasures that are available on other streaming apps. Most notable are two films directed by John Huston. We first saw one of them in a cultural center in San Cristobal de las Casas, Chiapas– The Treasure of the Sierra Madre (1948, starring Humphrey Bogart). The second is The Night of the Iguana (1964, starring Richard Burton and Eva Gardner) which in Tennessee Williams’ version takes place in Acapulco but was actually filmed in Mismaloya near Puerto Vallarta (less well known at the time). But also definitely not to be missed is an early Cuarón international blockbuster Y Tu Mamá Tambien (2001). Y Tu is superficially about a road trip from Mexico City to coastal Oaxaca but also is a turn-of-this-century exploration of the concept that gender is not binary.

If you enjoy films as we do and enjoy a bit of Mexico when you’re away, just stream one of the movies we mentioned. Happy watching.

 

Chapulín Tournament

By Jane Bauer

For the second year in a row, Jose Luis Bohorquez and his family hosted a Chapulín Tournament. The festivities started at 7 am on September, 22 at his ranch just south of Copalita where he has fields planted to attract chapulínes. It was a busy event. Participants had three hours to collect as many jumping creatures as they could. Many families wandered through the fields with bags for collecting the bugs.

Under a magnificent tree, there was food on the grill and sopes on the comal. Horse rides were available and live music played. In the evening the festivities moved to the cancha in Copalita with a calenda and more delicious offerings from local cooks.

Still not sure what I’m talking about? Chapulínes, or grasshoppers, are a popular snack in many regions of Mexico, especially Oaxaca. These edible insects have been enjoyed for centuries, valued for their rich source of protein, vitamins, and minerals. Typically, they are toasted with lime juice, garlic, and salt, and often seasoned with chile powder for a flavorful kick. Chapulínes are commonly eaten as a street food or as a crunchy topping for tacos, salsas, and guacamole. Their earthy, slightly tangy taste makes them a beloved delicacy, connecting Mexico’s culinary traditions with sustainability and the use of native ingredients in modern dishes.

The practice of harvesting chapulínes dates back to pre-Hispanic times in Mexico, where indigenous groups like the Zapotec and Mixtec considered these insects an essential part of their diet. Chapulínes were abundant in the fields during the rainy season, making them a reliable, sustainable protein source. Traditionally, they were collected by hand, often early in the morning when the grasshoppers were less active. After harvesting, they were toasted on clay comals and seasoned with local spices. This ancient tradition continues today, passed down through generations, reflecting the deep connection between the region’s agricultural practices and its culinary heritage.

As more and more people shop corporate it is encouraging that the Bohorquez family is highlighting the beauty of this tradition. Another great reason to be here in September!