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Huatulco

Ants in the Selva Seca

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By Julie Etra—

Ayayay. Ants are everywhere—in and outside our house here in the Bahías de Huatulco. That should come as no surprise given the climate. According to the literature, Mexico is home to more than 1,100 species of ants across 10 subfamilies.

Our house hosts the big, flesh-colored mordullos, or carpenter ants, who appear in the bathroom just before dawn. There are the tiny “sugar” ants—whom I call crazy ants because their movement seems randomly drunk—skittering across my desk. At least two species of small black ants are nearly always on my kitchen counters, despite my diligence (and generosity) with vinegar, bleach, and insecticides.

I’ve written before about the truly terrifying barranderas (sweeper ants) that invade in coordinated waves in pursuit of live prey (www.theeyehuatulco.com/2012/06/01/sweeper-ants-of-the-selva-seca). During the five-plus months we’re here each year, we usually endure two or three of these incursions. And then there are the leafcutter ants—the subject of this article—capable of stripping my vigorous, 15-year-old bougainvillea in a single night. Here, I’m talking about Atta mexicana, the Mexican leafcutter ant.

Ants in Mexican Mythology and Culture
Ants appear in pre-Hispanic mythology, most notably in stories involving the Aztec god Quetzalcoatl. In one version of the myth, Quetzalcoatl transforms himself into an ant to retrieve the first kernel of corn from a mountain, bringing sustenance—and civilization—to humanity. Through this story, ants become linked to the origins of life and agriculture.

In the Mexico City neighborhood of Azcapotzalco—whose name means “place where the ants live”—ants appear repeatedly in sculptures, murals, and architectural details. Once a distinct community and now absorbed into the city’s sprawl, Azcapotzalco is home to the Parroquia y Convento de los Santos Apóstoles Felipe y Santiago el Menor, built in 1565. A depiction of an ant still adorns its façade.

Legend holds that the Spanish enslaved the local population to construct the church, and that the maltreated locals responded by placing an ant at its base as a curse. One interpretation suggests the ant represents Quetzalcoatl returning from the underworld with corn for humanity—though how this constitutes a curse is unclear. Another version claims that when the ant reaches the base of the bell tower, it will announce the end of the world, for which we are all still waiting.

As explored in The Eye archives, ants remain part of Mexico’s culinary culture in the form of escamoles (ant larvae) and chicatanas—the winged reproductive females that appear during the rainy season. These prized ants are captured, their wings removed, and prepared in a variety of traditional dishes.

Range and Habitat
Leafcutter ants (Atta spp.), known in Mexico as hormigas arrieras (muleteer ants), are aptly named for their ability to transport plant material weighing up to ten times their own body weight—the ants themselves serving as pack animals.

They range throughout the Neotropics, from southern Mexico through Central and South America and the Caribbean, and occur as far north as southern Texas and Florida. They inhabit elevations from sea level to nearly 9,800 feet (3,000 meters).

Leafcutters require warm, humid environments and well-drained soils to build their vast underground fungus gardens. Although the literature often claims they thrive mainly in managed landscapes such as farms and roadsides, my own observations suggest otherwise. I’ve watched them harvest flowers and leaves from native trees in the selva seca, and friends in Pluma report similar behavior. At least here, they seem just as at home in wild ecosystems.

Foraging and Food Preparation
Because leafcutter ants cannot digest cellulose, harvested leaves—and occasionally flower parts—are transported back to the nest, processed into pulp, and incorporated into existing fungus gardens.

There, the ants cultivate a specific symbiotic fungus using enzymes produced in their fecal fluids (yes—ick). The fungus produces nutrient-rich structures called gongylidia, which feed the entire colony, particularly the developing larvae. In return, the ants protect the fungus from pests, while symbiotic bacteria suppress unwanted molds.

Physiology
Leafcutter ants are astonishingly strong and agile. They can carry fragments weighing up to 50 times their own body weight, thanks to powerful mandibles, robust muscles, and flexible, multi-jointed legs equipped with grasping feet. They can even pivot on their hind legs to maneuver material into designated chambers.

This remarkable physiology allows them to travel 600 feet or more from the nest in search of suitable plants.

The Colony
A single leafcutter colony can contain up to eight million individuals, ruled by a single queen who may live more than 20 years. The nest itself is vast—sometimes covering more than 720 square feet (67 m²) and extending 23 feet (seven meters) underground.

These subterranean cities contain thousands of chambers, including fungus gardens, brood chambers, a queen’s chamber, food-processing areas, and separate garbage dumps to maintain sanitation. Sophisticated ventilation tunnels regulate airflow throughout the nest.

Caste System
Leafcutter ants operate under a highly structured system of task partitioning, with roles determined largely by size:
· Minims: Tiny workers that tend the fungus gardens, brood, and waste.
· Minors: Slightly larger workers that groom and cultivate fungus.
· Mediae: Foragers that harvest and transport plant material.
· Majors: Large soldiers that defend the nest and perform heavy labor; they bite.
Older ants often become trash workers, a hazardous role that exposes them to toxins and pathogens. These ants effectively self-quarantine, protecting the queen, brood, and primary fungus gardens.

Reproduction
Leafcutter ants reproduce through massive mating flights that occur after the first substantial rains of the season. Winged queens (chicatanas) and males take to the air, mate, and shed their wings.

Each fertilized queen carries a pellet of symbiotic fungus from her natal nest to seed a new colony. She lays eggs and initially feeds the larvae with infertile eggs, storing sperm for life.

The mating flights are said to be spectacular—and lucrative—for human predators who harvest chicatanas during this brief window.

Huatulco

The ALMA experience, chapter 3: Elevated Living

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An interview with the creators of ALMA,
Frédéric Baron and Noémie Bourdin-Habert—

We continue our sit-down with the founders of ALMA to talk about architecture, landscape, and the experience of living in a place designed with care and intention.

I’m curious, who are your clients ?

Frédéric: You know, that’s funny, but we don’t really have “a type” of client at ALMA. We have seven nationalities, ages ranging from 28 to 78, and all kinds of professions from doctors or bankers to retirees. What they all share is the desire to own and enjoy a place of timeless elegance, hidden in nature, and yet close to everyday comforts. That’s when you can tell a design is truly timeless: when it resonates with people of different ages, cultures, and backgrounds.

What is the motivation to purchase in ALMA ?

Noémie: First and foremost, they purchase in ALMA because they genuinely love the architecture. We have even welcomed into the community people who had never heard of Huatulco before discovering ALMA. They seek comfort, privacy, a deep integration into the landscape and a place that is climate-resilient, yet adapted to the way we live in the 21st century.

Of course, they are also buying an address. In real estate, we often say the three most important factors are location, location, and location. So naturally, oceanfront properties remain a strong and reassuring investment, and something that owners, their families, and their guests will always enjoy. With pristine ocean views and an existing fisherman’s trail leading to the beach, the setting speaks for itself.

There is also a great sense of peace of mind in investing in a safe city, in a neighborhood that cannot become over-densified, thanks to the 2023 extension of the National Park

that completely surrounded the property, and the presence of unspoiled beaches. It reassures buyers who seek both emotional value and long-term appreciation.

It finally comes down to rarity. This type of architecture, this level of quality in this landscape, with this low density and at this price point, is extremely uncommon in Oaxaca and in all of Mexico.

What is it exactly that you call “the ALMA experience” ?

Frédéric: The ALMA experience starts very early. We like to think it begins with the discovery of the project. For example during a site visit, we always introduce potential buyers to a number of new birds and tree species, show them the whales or observe the milky way when coming back at night. When new to Huatulco, we take the time to show them the town, its neighborhoods, and some of its hidden gems. We love taking them to your village-to-table dinner in Zimatán, for example, because it reflects the passion behind some of the most inspiring local initiatives.

Now of course, the most meaningful experience will begin once their property is delivered. Noemie and I are both deeply inspired by unique hotel experiences, and ALMA was designed as a private, residential interpretation of that spirit.

Our clients are never numbers; they are people we get to know personally. Our relationship often goes beyond an investment, and that is the beauty of building a small community. In short, the ALMA experience is a journey we designed from discovery to delivery, and the care we put into every detail to make it both simple and beautiful.

Alright, so tell me, what will it feel like, once you live in ALMA?

Noémie: That’s an excellent question, and not always easy to describe because it is mostly sensorial.

Entering ALMA feels like entering a refined, low-density resort. The access gate is spacious and surrounded by trees and gardens. You hear insects and birds, you are in the shade, and everything feels calm. Unhurried. And instantly, you feel welcomed, not controlled. From that point on, all that you see, hear, and smell has been carefully considered.

You reach your home with your own car, driving sometimes at trunk height, sometimes at foliage height. You park under or next to your property, always in the shade. No golf carts, no valet, no waiting, and no long walks necessary. You simply drive home, easily and privately.

Entering your home, you step into a sophisticated place that combines high-end materials and a strong architectural signature. Steel structures bring a modern touch, while wooden ceilings add warmth and a tropical character. The natural scent of the wood immediately creates a feeling of comfort and belonging. And whether it is a two-bedroom apartment or a four-bedroom Villa, the only difference is in the size. The exact same attention to detail and the same materials are used throughout.

The properties open widely to nature, with green buffers on each side and ocean views framed by native trees, which gives the feeling of living in a nest among branches and birds. Protected, yet open. And you feel like it, just close it all and turn on the A/C to watch a movie.

When using the amenities you choose how social you want to be. You can meet people by one of the large lap pools, or enjoy complete privacy at the spa, which is privatized upon reservation and dedicated only to you and your guests.

When night comes, the lighting is kept to a minimum to respect the fauna and flora. So, you hear cicadas, see fireflies, and you can admire the stars. It is a rare privilege today, and one that quietly reminds you where you are.

To design this experience, we drew inspiration from the most refined hotel environments we know. For example, a concierge is available to arrange anything from a private chef to transportation or cultural experiences, so owners feel supported without ever losing their independence and privacy.

And finally, it is also about knowing us personally and trusting the level of care and standards we bring to every detail. We safeguard each moment of the experience and never rush it. Because just like good food never comes from a microwave, a truly meaningful place can only be created with time, care, and intention.

It is a philosophy that has naturally been recognized, with ALMA being nominated and awarded six times in 2025, including in the Residential Luxury category, alongside some of the most prestigious branded residences and resort properties in the world.

For more information: http://www.alma-huatulco.com

 

 

Huatulco

Inside ALMA: Craftsmanship, Sustainability, and Signature Design

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In this interview, we speak with Frederic Baron and Noémie Bourdin-Habert, the developers behind ALMA, an architectural project in Huatulco that blends design, sustainability, and community. They share the story behind the name, the philosophy that shaped the residence, and the details that set ALMA apart in Mexico’s coastal real estate landscape.

Where does the name ALMA come from ?

Noemie: ALMA means “soul” in Spanish. We chose it because it captured exactly what we had in mind: to create not just a development, but a community with a soul. A residence with a positive impact and a clear purpose—to promote Mexican modern architecture and sustainability within the real estate development sector and create a unique user experience. It also resonated deeply with a book that transformed both our lives: About the Soul, by Francois Cheng.

What’s the differentiator of ALMA as a residence?

Frederic: I’d say the key differentiator of ALMA is that it was never about simply selling properties. It’s always been about bringing a genuine piece of architecture to the market—crafted by incredible architects down to the smallest detail and set in an extraordinary oceanfront environment—literally surrounded by National Parks. In a word, it’s a place where you want to live, not just invest.

Designed by world-renowned architects José Juan Rivera Río and Modica-Ledezma, each ALMA property carries the qualities you usually only see in magazine homes. In short, ALMA aims to make signature architecture and sustainability the standard, so the end-user experience is elevated. With that in mind, it’s no coincidence that ALMA has recently received several distinctions: shortlisted for its masterplan by one of the most prestigious international architecture competitions, the Architecture Hunter Awards; nominated at the Americas Property Awards in the category of Luxury Project of the Year; and awarded the title of Most Sustainable Project in Mexico at the Americas Property Awards—now advancing to compete for the title of Most Sustainable Project in the Americas.

What inspired ALMA ?

Noemie: A large part of ALMA was inspired by extensive past architectural and hospitality experiences—from museums to hotels, from shacks to palaces. We both love lines, light, shadows, textures, shadow gaps, lush gardens, and generally speaking, unique experiences. We’ve always felt that the level of architecture you see in magazine homes, galleries, or high-end hotels should also exist in residential developments. Yet it rarely does.

Architecture is a major art—the only art we can actually inhabit—and that gives it the power to transform our lives. Think about it: we’ve all felt instantly right or totally off in a place because of its brightness, volumes, materials, warmth, etc. And this is precisely what sparked our desire to create a truly architectural project that elevates our daily lives, not just our holidays.

At the end of the day, ALMA wasn’t born out of ambition but out of our shared commitment towards architecture and sustainability and the desire to achieve it at a price per square meter or square foot that remains completely within market standards.

Interesting! Now, in practice, what can ALMA clients expect in terms of design and finishes?

Frederic : When it comes to design, Charles Eames said it perfectly: “The details are not the details; they make the design.”

At ALMA, the number of details that actually shape the design is endless. I can name just a few that stand out in order to illustrate the level of finishes we offer:

1- Fan-coil air conditioning: Goodbye mini-splits! Of course they work, but it’s no secret that they kill the design. Instead, we use inverter fan-coil units with subtle grids integrated into walls and ceilings. Almost invisible, they perfectly preserve the purity of the architectural lines and consume less energy.

2- Swimming pools: We all love cooling off around these latitudes, but plastic or steel drains often ruin the look. At ALMA, every pool is infinity and integrated into the ground with drains hidden under the travertine floor, creating a true water mirror. Plus, all pools use salt water and overflow tanks.

3- Green roofs: Besides reducing upper-floor temperatures by up to 4°C / 7°F and enhancing pollination, green roofs are beautiful and blend the residence into the native landscape. So instead of seeing concrete and A/C condensers, our upper villas look at the ocean ahead and roof gardens below. A great spot for butterfly-watching!

4- Windows: ALMA’s sliders are fully custom, imported, made of thick tempered glass for safety and slim frames for the design—a rare feature in real estate developments. They’re the type you can open with just a finger, lock properly and that keeps out torrential rains. With views as exceptional as these, this choice made itself obvious. That being said, because of the heavy impact of their cost on profitability, it is very uncommon to see them featured outside of architect designed standalone villas.

5- Built-in appliances: Very common in architect-design properties, built-in fridges, freezers, or other appliances allow to reduce the “centerpiece” effect of appliances and let the design and the views be the protagonists of a room.

6- Toilets: Hanging toilets are already the norm in countries known for hygiene and minimalism, like Japan, Singapore or Sweden, but they’re not common here. At ALMA, all bedrooms feature en-suite bathrooms with minimalist hanging toilets—always behind doors and separate from showers for more privacy.

And in addition to many other indoor and outdoor details, ALMA offers high-level amenities, such as a wellness center, a fully equipped gym, generous common pools, an all-day concierge service, a forest path to a virgin beach, and a beach-hopping shuttle.

Beside the experience ALMA offers, are there other advantages to being part of the community?

Noemie: Absolutely. Several, actually. Since the experience our owners live at ALMA is our main focus, the chances for them to meet like-minded neighbors and build meaningful friendships based on a shared appreciation for architecture and nature are really high. It’s not a coincidence that buyers planning to live in ALMA outnumber pure investors, by far!

Another major advantage is the controlled environment. Many of our owners previously bought in oceanfront neighborhoods only to see them drastically change or become overbuilt. The fact that the National Park has expanded and now fully surrounds ALMA ensures this cannot happen here. Low density—the lowest of any neighborhood in Huatulco—is a secured long-term advantage.

Property appreciation is another key benefit for our owners. Around the world, experience shows that sustainable, award-winning properties designed by renowned architects offer stronger capital gains.

Finally, something our owners repeatedly highlight is our dedication and our accessibility as developers. Being genuinely reachable, being onsite daily, constantly sharing professional construction photos, having lived in the community for over five years, and being part of both the local and expat communities are things that really matter to them. In return, we truly value the relationship we have with each of them, and our conversations—sometimes over casual diners or drinks— have often helped us refine the ALMA experience even further.

For more information:
http://www.alma-huatulco.com

Huatulco

AI May Be the Headline, But Nature Is Still the Story

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By Kary Vannice

2025 has been a year fixated on technology, artificial intelligence, and man-made machines. It seems not a day’s gone went by without some mention of AI, either as a “new hope” or an existential threat.

Some of this year’s headlines included: “Tech show features more robots and AI than ever before,” “AI Could Reshape Humanity — And We Have No Plan For It,” and “MI5’s director warns of autonomous AI systems evading human oversight.”

The world is captivated by how motherboards, chatbots, and microchips might define the next decade or two of life on Earth. And yet, with our eyes and attention focused on the inner world of AI, many seem to have forgotten that we still live on a planet of water, earth and sky.

Centuries — and even just a few decades — ago, humanity strove to explore and define the world around us by seeking to decode nature and uncover what it could teach us about our own humanity and this place we call home.

Our planet is still evolving and we are still making striking discoveries in the natural world. So, in case you missed them, here are some of 2025’s biggest discoveries in nature.

Earth’s Deepest Ecosystem Discovered Six Miles Below the Sea – Nature Magazine

Scientists documented thriving animal communities using methane/chemosynthesis more than 9,000 meters below the surface of the Pacific. These microbes possess biochemical adaptations that allow them to extract energy from compounds that are toxic to most life. The finding may help us harness deep-sea enzymes to process industrial waste, create cleaner fuels, or break down methane emissions.

The Earth’s Inner Core Is Changing Shape – ScienceAlert

New seismic data revealed that Earth’s inner core, long believed to be a static metal sphere, is actually changing shape. Scientists found that it’s slightly deforming, rotating, and even slowing in certain regions. This helps researchers understand how energy moves through the planet and how Earth’s magnetic field, tectonic motion, and heat flow interact. The discovery could improve forecasts of geomagnetic shifts that influence navigation systems, satellite operations, and even climate patterns.

New Giant Amazonian Tree Species Identified – Environment News

In the Peruvian Amazon, botanists identified Drypetes oliveri, a towering 35-meter tree that had gone unnoticed until now. With more than 7,000 tree species, the Amazon still holds secrets like this “hidden giant” — a reminder that protecting these trees is essential for global carbon storage and conservation.

The Discovery of a “Missing” Plant Enzyme – Nature

Scientists discovered a special plant enzyme that had been missing from one of nature’s most important chemical recipes. The enzyme, called iridoid cyclase, helps plants make compounds that protect them from bugs and disease. These newly identified compounds can now be used to create important medicines — including drugs that fight cancer and malaria. This missing piece in nature’s chemistry set could one day help save lives.

Plants Have Hidden “Wiring” That Helps Them Handle Stress – Nature

Researchers studying tomato plants found a new molecular “switch” that helps control the rate at which fruits ripen and how they cope with tough conditions like drought. This shows that even familiar crops still have hidden systems that help them survive when water is scarce or weather turns extreme. By understanding this new wiring, scientists can help farmers grow stronger, healthier plants that need fewer resources and can better adapt to a changing climate.

The “Woolly Devil” Plant Discovered in Texas Desert – National Public Radio

In Big Bend National Park, botanists identified a completely new genus and species of flowering plant, nicknamed the “Woolly Devil.” Covered in tiny hair-like glands similar to those in plants that produce powerful medicinal compounds, it could potentially lead to the development of new, nature-derived medicines. Its discovery in a well-studied national park is another reminder that unexplored biological potential still exists in plain sight.

In a world captivated by algorithms and automation, it’s easy to lose sight of the fact that we’re part of an ever-evolving ecosystem. And the more we uncover about Earth — from the shape-shifting core beneath us to the microscopic chemistry inside a leaf — the more we realize how little we actually know. The discoveries of 2025 remind us that nature is still alive, dynamic, and brimming with answers to questions we haven’t even begun to ask.

Artificial intelligence may help us build the future, but nature still holds the blueprint for how to live wisely on this planet. So, perhaps the real “new frontier” isn’t the one we’re coding in ones and zeros, but the one we’re still discovering beneath our feet.

Huatulco

Editor’s Letter- July 2025

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By Jane Bauer

“Oaxaca lo tiene todo: historia, geografía, arte, cultura y, sobre todo, alma.”
“Oaxaca has everything: history, geography, art, culture, and above all, soul.”

Andrés Henestrosa (1906–2008) was a Mexican writer, poet, and politician from Oaxaca, known for his work in preserving and promoting Zapotec culture and language. In addition to his contributions to indigenous linguistics, he was widely respected for his humanitarian work and lifelong commitment to education and cultural inclusion.

I love when two unrelated events cross paths and open a new window of thought. As I sat hunkered down in Huatulco, watching heavy rains fill normally dry canals, and reading the usual online buzz of neighbors checking in and sharing photos of Hurricane Erick, I came across a headline: the U.S. had bombed Iran.

And it struck me – this strange parallel between the violence of nature and the violence of humanity.

The storm had a rhythm. The wind shook the trees, the water rose, the power blinked. But nature’s violence, even in its ferocity, seemed to have a purpose. I came across an article listing the benefits of hurricanes—how they redistribute heat from the tropics, bring rainfall to dry areas, churn the oceans and shake up stagnation. Nature’s destruction has intention. It clears paths. It forces growth. It renews.

But what is the purpose of our violence?
Bombs don’t bring rain. They don’t shift tectonic plates in a way that nourishes. They don’t rebalance ecosystems. They just kill. They divide. They reinforce walls that were never there in the natural world—Democrat, conservative, Palestinian, Israeli, Muslim, Jew, Christian. So many labels. So many reasons to separate. So many flags we wave while our homes flood and our forests burn.

Nature’s violence may be terrifying, but it’s not senseless.
Ours usually is. What would it look like to just be? To step away from the performance of identity and instead be guided by one simple principle to do the least amount of harm. To each other. To ourselves. To the planet.

That kind of thinking doesn’t fit easily into a political agenda, especially when war is more profitable than peace and we have had it drummed into us that amassing money, points, clothes made by little hands in developing countries far away, is the point of all this. But that is a lie.

This month our readers explore the regions of Oaxaca reflecting on their beauty and diversity. I am so grateful to the people here who don’t need a crisis to be reminded of what matters. History has never been peaceful, maybe it’s time to try something different.

Huatulco

¡Ojos! Watch Out!!! Avoiding the Venomous Snakes of Oaxaca

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By Deborah Van Hoewyk

One of Huatulco’s major attractions is its natural setting. From the famous “nine-bays-and-thirty-six-beaches,” to waterfalls and wildlife, to mountain trips and horse-back riding, being active outdoors is just at your doorstep. And going farther afield in Oaxaca, you find the lagoons and mangroves of the coast, the frozen white waterfall of Hierve el Agua (literally, “boil the water”), and the hiking trail between the eight villages of the Pueblos Mancomunados (hard to translate, sort of a “community of towns”), to name just a few outdoor adventures.

In all of these environs, you will find snakes. Some are venomous, and some are harmless. Left alone, all of them will leave you alone. But should you not be looking, and step on one, it may well attack you. Here are the venomous ones, what they look like, and where you should be watching out for them.

The Vipers

Rattlesnakes. There are two kinds of vipers in Mexico, and most belong to the genus Crotalinae, the rattlesnakes. In the articles in this issue on snake venom, you will learn that Oaxaca has its share of rattlesnakes. Rattlesnakes are “pit” vipers – they have pits near their eyes that contain heat-sensing organs. The sensors let the snake “see” warm-blooded prey. Most hunt at night, so the heat-sensing is key to being able to strike at their prey in the dark.

There’s the pygmy rattlesnake (Croatalus ravus, with three subspecies) – it’s 18-30 inches long and is found in the mountains. It is the usual mottled brown you associate with rattlesnakes.

There’s the black-tailed rattlesnake (Crotalus molossus oaxacus) – it grows to over 4 feet long, and is found in the desert, mesquite grasslands, and pine-oak forests (in the Sierras between 7,000 and 10,000 feet). It comes in varied colors – brown, yellowish, olive-greeny – but the scales on its tail are black.

The small-headed rattlesnake (Crotalus intermedius) – is small all over, growing to about 24 inches long. It is found in the pine-oak forests on the mountains, and looks like your idea of a rattlesnake.

The famous fer de lance. Another pit viper, even more to be avoided than the rattlesnakes, is the fer de lance (“spearhead,” Bothrops asper). Various species of Bothrops have been called fer de lance, so herpetologists prefer the term terciopelo (velvet) for Bothrops asper (see Julie Etra’s article elsewhere in this issue). The terciopelo looks pretty much like a rattlesnake, although its head is somewhat bigger and flatter, dark on top and light on the bottom. The female terciopelo grows much larger than the male; males can be 4-6 feet long, but females can exceed 8 feet.

You are not likely to see any terciopelos in Huatulco, as they do not like the dry winters. Unlike rattlesnakes, they prefer a moist environment; if you visit the tropical rainforests or cloud forests of the Yucatán or Chiapas, you could indeed find them; young ones like to climb trees.

Given that vipers hunt at night, using their heat sensors, you might want to reconsider any nature adventures scheduled for after dark.

The Elapids

The Elapidae family of snakes are the stuff of nightmares – they have permanently erect fangs (rattlesnakes and terciopelos have hinged fangs) and when ticked off, are exceedingly testy, not to mention exceedingly venomous. Some rise up and spread out the skin of their neck like a hood – think Indiana Jones and cobras.

The Oaxacan coral snake (Micrurus ephippifer and Micrurus ephippifer zapotectus) is found in tropical deciduous forests, as in the Huatulco National Park, or farther up in the pine-oak forests of the mountainsides. These snakes can be quite small, and almost never exceed 3 feet. They like to burrow under leaf litter, logs, forest debris – you won’t see them before you step on them. They are also fond of wetlands, so watch your step on marshy ground.

Sea Snakes

The subfamily Hydrophiinae contains the sea snakes. Note that there are very rarely Hydrophiinae in the Atlantic (a few have been sighted in the Caribbean, but it is thought that humans released them or perhaps they made it through the Panama Canal).

Sea snakes do, however, occur in the Pacific waters of Huatulco, and they are poisonous. They do not attack humans, preferring to strike fish, paralyzing them with their venom so they can chew them up at leisure.

The only one you are likely to see in Huatulco waters is the yellow-bellied sea snake (Hydrophis platurus). This snake is extremely venomous. While its coloring can vary, it is usually black on top and yellow or light brown on the belly, and the colors are clearly separate. Its tail is flattened from top to bottom, has a marked pattern (usually spots), and helps the snake swim. Males are less than 30 inches long, while females can be up to 35 inches long. The water needs to be above 61˚F (16˚C) for long-term survival.

On the other hand, I myself have seen what appeared to be an aquatic coral snake (Micrurus surinamensis) while out watching dolphins. Definitely red, white/yellow, and black. If that’s what it was, it was considerably off course, since its usual habitat is the Pacific waters off northern South America. Of course, it could have been a Oaxacan coral snake wandering off from the wetlands of the Parque Nacional …

Huatulco

Going Out and Under

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By Kary Vannice

Some of Mexico’s most fantastical and fascinating outdoor pursuits aren’t actually outdoors but underground. With over 7,000 recorded cave systems scattered across the country, Mexico boasts some of the most extensive and awe-inspiring underground networks in the world. Beneath its amazing surface lies an even more mesmerizing world waiting to be discovered – a labyrinth of caves, caverns, and underground rivers that weave throughout Mexico, telling the earth’s ancient origin story.

Mexico is, of course, well known for its diverse landscape, from lush green jungles to towering blue mountains, but it’s her vast subterranean realm that can truly captivate the adventurous spirit. Each cave system tells a story of geological evolution, carved out over millions of years by relentless forces of nature.

One of Mexico’s most iconic cave systems is the cenotes of the Yucatán Peninsula. Cenotes are ancient sinkholes formed by the collapse of limestone bedrock to reveal a hidden world of crystal-clear waters and intricate caverns. Exploring the cenotes offers a unique opportunity to swim, snorkel, or dive amidst massive stalactites and stalagmites as shafts of sunlight pour down from surface openings, lighting up the subterranean landscape. If you’re visiting the Yucatán, you can find many guided tours that will safely allow you to experience these hidden wonders.

Venturing further into Mexico’s underground realm, you can explore the sprawling cave systems of the Sierra Madre Oriental on the eastern side of the country. Here, limestone cliffs give way to a network of caverns adorned with stunning formations, including delicate helictites, which, unlike stalactites and stalagmites, look like they were formed in zero gravity. They can extend horizontally or even diagonally across the cave’s surface often ending up looking like sea coral growing out of the depths. Also, in this area, you will find the Cave of Swallows, one of the largest vertical cave shafts in the world. It plunges over 1,200 feet straight down for anyone seeking an adrenaline rush by rappelling a quarter of a mile down into the black abyss.

If you’re looking for a more immersive experience, the Rio Secreto in the Riviera Maya provides a journey through an underground river system that flows beneath the pristine jungle above. Kayaking or floating through the subterranean waterways reveals a hidden world of ancient rock formations and subaqueous chambers where the echoes of dripping water create a symphony of sound that reverberates through the caverns.

But perhaps one of Mexico’s most extraordinary underground landscapes lies deep beneath the surface of Naica, Chihuahua – the Cave of the Crystals. Located 300 meters within the Naica Mine, this otherworldly cavern is renowned for its gigantic gypsum crystals. Some of the crystals inside the cave are as tall as a 4-story building and weigh over 50 tons. Humans in this environment look like tiny ants surrounded by perfectly formed, crystal clear prisms and luminescent shafts of light. The cave’s extreme conditions, with temperatures reaching up to 58°C (136°F), along with humidity levels nearing 100%, created the perfect environment for forming these monumental crystals over thousands of years.

So breathtakingly beautiful, this true marvel of the underground world was featured on the Discovery and History Channels and the Outdoor Life Network in Canada. These programs offered a rare glimpse into this surreal underworld that seems more like a scene from science fiction than reality. Unfortunately, unlike many other underground wonders in Mexico, your only opportunity to experience this mystical landscape is on TV. Discovered initially as part of a mining exploration that required pumps to keep the underground water from filling the chamber, the caves were allowed to re-flood when mining operations ceased in October of 2015. Nevertheless, the mere existence of this extraordinary ecosystem serves as a testament to the incredible geological diversity and untold mysteries that lie beneath Mexico’s surface.

Mexico’s expansive cave systems offer a gateway to a realm where time stands still, and the earth reveals its hidden treasures. Each unique cave system tells a story of geological wonder and cultural significance. You just have to be adventurous enough to look below the surface.

Huatulco

Popocatépetl and Family

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By Julie Etra

With 38 volcanoes, a dozen of them active, Mexico still only has the eighth most volcanoes in the world. It’s not the world leader in earthquakes, either. However, the mutual potential for for volcanoes and earthquakes to cause disaster hangs over the country like a pall of smoke.

Mexico’s Big Three Volcanoes

Popocatépetl, an active volcano, is the second highest peak in Mexico at an elevation of 5,393 m (17,694 ft), following the highest peak, Citlaltépetl (Pico de Orizaba) at an elevation 5,636 m (18,491 ft). It is affectionately known by its nickname “El Popo.” Its name is derived from the Nahuatl popōca, meaning “it smokes” and tepētl, meaning “mountain” or “smoking mountain.” Citlaltépetl is also derived from Nahuatl: citlal means “star” and of course tepētl = mountain. (There is a stationary store on Gardenia called Papeleria Citlalli, so now you know what it means.)

At an elevation 5,230 m (17,160 ft), Iztaccíhuatl is the third highest mountain in Mexico and occurs just north of El Popo. Its name means white woman in Nahuatl (iztāc = “white”; cihuātl = “woman”), since it resembles a woman lying on her back and is often snow-covered.

The three volcanoes are located to the east of Mexico City: Popocatépetl is about 70 km (43 miles) southeast of Mexico City, where the states of México, Morelos, and Puebla meet; on a clear day, it is easily seen from the city. Iztaccíhuatul is about 90 km (54 miles) from Mexico City. Pico de Orizaba, about 200 km (120 miles) from Mexico City, rises just west of the city of Orizaba at the border of the states of Puebla and Veracruz. Those who drive to Huatulco from the north easily see Popocatepétl and Iztaccíhuatul looking south from 150D; Pico de Orizaba is on your left as you leave the state of Puebla and enter Veracruz.

All three volcanos are steep-walled stratovolcanos, generally symmetrical and cone-shaped and with a 400 x 600 m wide crater. Stratovolcanoes are sometimes called composite volcanoes because of their composite layered structure, formed from successive eruptions (strato = layer in Latin). And all three occur along the Trans-Mexican volcanic belt, aka the Mexican “Ring of Fire,” which stretches across central Mexico from the Pacific Ocean to the Gulf of Mexico – route 150D runs right through the middle of the volcanic belt.

El Popo is geologically connected to Iztaccíhuatl, 12.9 km (8 miles) to the north through the Paso de Cortés; this is the high pass that Hernando Cortés and his men followed after their conquest of Cholula in 1519, on their way to conquer the capital of the Aztec/Mexica Empire, Tenochtitlán.

The two volcanoes are protected as they lie in the Izta-Popo Zoquiapan National Park, which runs north and south within the Sierra Nevada range (Sierra Nevada means “snow covered” [nevada] “mountain range” [sierra]). On the west side of the range the watershed provides snow melt and creek water to the Valley of Mexico (formerly Lake Texcoco). Until relatively recently, the three volcanoes were the only instance of glaciation – they had year-round snow/ice cover – in Mexico; in the 1990s, however, both the Glaciar Norte and the Glaciar del Ventorillo of Popocatépetl began to retreat, due to both warming conditions and increased volcanism. Although ice remains in some places, Popocatépetl’s glaciers were gone by 2001.

Popocatépetl is Mexico’s most active volcano with 15 eruptions recorded since 1519. On May 20, 2023, both Mexico City airports (Benito Juarez Mexico City International Airport [MEX] and Felipe Angeles International Airport [NLU]) had to close temporarily due to increased volcanic activity and ash fall. Most recently, on November 1, 2023, the cone exploded with gray ash. This activity is not unusual, and in fact we stopped to watch it smoking on our way from Mexico City to Puebla a few years ago, with the sun setting behind it. Spectacular. Iztaccíhuatl is dormant and has not erupted since 1868. Pico de Orizaba last erupted in 1846.

Legends of the Mexican Volcanos

The Legend of Popocatépetl and Iztaccíhuatl. Legend has it that these two mountains represent a young warrior and a young princess. Once upon a time in Mexico (but after the rise of the Aztec empire), a beautiful Tlaxcalan maiden princess named Iztaccíhuatl fell in love with a young Tlaxcalan warrior, Popoca. (Tlaxcala is now a small state southeast of Mexico City.) She was the most beautiful princess who ever existed, and he was one of the most handsome and brave warriors of his village.

The Tlaxacans sided with the Spanish during the conquest of 1519-1521 in an effort to end the costly tributes they paid to the sprawling Aztec empire with its centralized, wealthy capital of Tenochtitlán (basically, Mexico City). Before departing for the ongoing wars with the powerful Aztecs, Popoca asked the cacique (chief) of the village for the hand of the princess. This was granted under the condition that the young man return safe and sound.
Popoca left for battle, presumably with the forces of Cortés, while the princess waited impatiently for his return. Meanwhile a jealous, poison-tongued rival, also in love with the princess, lied to her, fabricating a story of how her beloved had died in battle. Overcome by grief and inconsolable through this treacherous deceit, she died from a broken heart. A short time later, Popoca returned victoriously from battle ready to take the hand of his betrothed, only to find that she had died.

It is said that the young man, dejected, wandered through the streets for days and nights contemplating a way to honor their great love for each other. He decided to build her a large tomb under the Sun and compiled 10 hills to build an enormous mountain. Once built, he took the inert body of his beloved and laid her on the top of the mountain. As he kneeled over her with a smoking torch in one hand, he kissed her one last time, watching her dream eternally.

Since then, they have remained together. Eventually snow covered their bodies, becoming the two snow-capped enormous volcanoes that will remain unchanged until the end of time. When the warrior Popoca, now the mountain Popocatépetl, remembers his beloved Iztaccíhuatl, his heart, which maintains the fire of eternal passion, trembles, and his torch ignites again. That is why, even today, the Popocatépetl volcano continues to spew plumes of smoke from its fumaroles.

The Legend of Pico de Orizaba. At the peak of the Olmec civilization lived a beautiful and brave warrior named Nahuani. She was always seen in the company of her best friend, an eagle named Ahuilizapan (in Nahuatl, the “place of the happy waters,” pronunciation reduced to “Orizaba” in Spanish). Their friendship was legendary, and Ahuilizapan was always with her in battle. Finally, Nahuani died in battle and such was Ahuilizapan’s sadness and pain, the eagle flew as high as she could and plummeted back down to earth, where she eventually became a mountain and then a volcano. After many years of relative tranquility, Ahuilizapan remembered the moment she lost her best friend and began to spew lava. This is the reason that even now people climb this peak as high as they can, leaving offerings to keep the eagle calm.

Geology and a Brief Lesson in Plate Tectonics

Or, why the southern coast of Mexico is particularly prone to earthquakes.

The rigid outer shell of the planet, known as the lithosphere, is fractured into seven or eight major plates (depending on how they are defined) and many minor plates (“platelets”). Where the plates meet, their motion in relation to each other determines the type of plate boundary, known as faults and fault zones. They can move side by side, known as a strike slip, and under adjacent plates, called subduction, and in all kinds of combinations of movement. The relative movement of the plates typically ranges from zero to 10 cm annually. Faults result in earthquakes, volcanic activity, mountain-building, and oceanic trench formation. The Trans-Mexican volcanic belt and associated volcanoes result from the the Pacific Plate and the smaller Cocos Plate subducting beneath the North American Plate.

Oaxaca lies over the convergent boundary where the Cocos Plate is subducted beneath the North American Plate. The rate of convergence in this part of the boundary is 60 mm per year, or six times what is typical. This boundary is associated with many damaging earthquakes along the plate interface, within the descending Cocos slab, and within the overriding North American Plate

The frequency of earthquakes along the Pacific coast of Mexico is increased by geologic activity in the Middle American Trench, a submarine depression that runs from below Baja California in Mexico to Costa Rica. This oceanic trench is a major subduction zone, containing the Pacific, Cocos, and Nazca Plates on the ocean side and the North American and Caribbean Plates on the inland side. The trench is 2,750 km (1,700 miles) long and 6,669 m (21,880 feet) deep at its deepest point.

The Tehuantepec Ridge runs straight (an unusual configuration) across the Cocos Plate and under mainland Mexico near the Oaxaca-Chiapas border. The ridge is an old fracture zone, a place where plates stick; many shallow subduction angles result in perfect conditions for frequent, strong Oaxacan earthquakes. Indeed, Oaxaca has had over 14,000 earthquakes in or near the region since 1995; a quarter of all the earthquakes in Mexico occur in Oaxaca, and no, there is no homeowner’s earthquake insurance that I know of.

Notable Mexican Earthquakes
Oaxacan earthquake of 1931. On January 14, 1931, a devastating earthquake with a magnitude of 7.8 struck the state capital, Oaxaca de Juárez. Oaxaca City was pretty isolated at the time, with only 35,000 inhabitants versus the current population of 300,050 (2014 census). The quake lasted about four minutes. Archives reported that 80% of the homes were destroyed, but a number of weaker tremors, or foreshocks, increasing in intensity, preceded the major quake, as opposed to aftershocks (replicas in Spanish). This tectonic warning allowed residents to flee their homes, resulting in only about 60 fatalities.

Mexico City earthquake of 1985 struck on September 19 at just after 7 a.m. with a magnitude of 8.0. (For reference, the strongest earthquake ever recorded was a magnitude 9.5; the Great Chilean Earthquake occurred in Valdivia, a town on the southern coast of Chile, on May 22, 1960.) The Mexico City seismic event caused serious damage to the Greater Mexico City urban area and at least 5,000 fatalities. A foreshock of magnitude 5.2 had occurred the prior May, the main quake was September 19, and there were two large aftershocks whose epicenters were in the Middle American Trench – more than 350 kilometers (220 mi) away.

The event caused between $3 and $5 billion USD in damage. Hundreds of buildings were destroyed and thousands more were seriously damaged. The degree of damage was due to the large magnitude of the quake, the size of the urbanized area, the lack of engineering in old structures, and the ancient, wave-amplifying lake bed on which Mexico City lies. This unstable substrate proides one of the ostensible reasons that President Andrés Manuel López Obrador halted construction of a new Mexico City airport in 2018).

Oaxacan earthquake of 2108. The hypocenter of this magnitude 7.2 earthquake was located 24.5 km (15 miles) deep, and the epicenter was about 37 km (23 miles) northeast of Pinotepa de Don Luis in northwest Oaxaca near the border with the state of Guerrero. (The hypocenter is where IN the earth the quake starts; the epicenter is ON the surface). The epicenter was in a rural area, with little reported damage to structures. A total of 14 people were killed as a result of a military helicopter crash surveying the damage, and not from the earthquake itself.

Oaxacan earthquake of 2020. The last big earthquake in Oaxaca occurred on June 23, 2020, with a magnitude of 7.5. The epicenter was between San Miguel del Puerto (north and west of Copalita) and the small village of Santa María Zapotitlán on the Isthmus. While it shook here in Huatulco, with over 200 replicas, it devastated the town of Juchitán de Zaragoza on the Isthmus of Tehauntepec, where older structures were not engineered to withstand strong earthquakes. The quake was felt by an estimated 49 million people as far south as Guatemala, with some tremors felt as far away as 640 kilometers (400 mi). Thousands of houses in Oaxaca were damaged and ten fatalities were reported. A tsunami warning was issued for southern Mexico and as far south as Honduras, but the tsunami did not occur.

Mexican construction requirements have been strengthened to avoid earthquake damage. When we designed our house in Huatulco almost 15 years ago, the plans had to be approved by FONATUR in Mexico City, at the federal level, and withstand an 8.0 quake. That’s a lot of rebar but we had no damage to the house other than a few superficial cracks.

Huatulco

Conejos y Liebres

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By Julie Etra

Where we live, in Reno, Nevada, we consider rabbits a nuisance. (Nevada, by the way, means snow-covered, and the Sierra Nevada are snow-covered mountains – certainly so in December 2022). Rabbits eat a lot of grass and they reproduce rapidly and frequently. They deposit concentrated calcium from their urine and solid waste right where they forage, further stressing the grasses on which they continue to graze. On the other hand, rabbits are essential food for predators such as coyotes and birds of prey.

In Huatulco, we live in Residenciales Conejos, the subdivision with a symbol of a rabbit at the entrance, located on the Bahia de Conejos. So, I said to myself when we bought the lot, hmmm, bunnies. After 13 years in Res. Conejos, we do see an occasional bunny and/or their sign (pellets), but no hares (liebre, in Spanish) and our small patch of grass is not suffering from their presence.

What makes a rabbit a rabbit? First, they are mammals. In general, they have long ears (this varies considerably), a short tail, long hind legs, and continuously growing sharp incisors. Most species are gray or brown and range in size from 10 to 18 inches (25 to 45 cm) long and weigh 1 to 4 pounds (0.5 to 2 kg). They feed primarily on grasses.

There are four species of rabbits and one hare (a type of jackrabbit) found in the selva seca, or dry jungle, of Mexico (see Julie Etra’s article on the selva seca in Huatulco in the December 2022 issue of The Eye). Two of the rabbits are endemic, one of these is threatened and endangered, and the hare (Lepus flavigularis) is considered very rare.

Rabbits in the Jungle

The bunnies or cottontails found in the selva seca include the common tapeti cottontail (Sylvilagus brasiliensis), also called the Brazilian cottontail or forest cottontail. It is a small- to medium-sized bunny, with an expansive range from Tamaulipas to southern Mexico, through Central America, and as far as central Brazil. It has a small, dark tail, short hind feet and short ears. The tapeti cottontail is nocturnal and solitary

The Mexican cottontail (Sylvilagus cunicularius) is endemic to Mexico and the selva seca. This is the dude or dudette(s) (macho y hembra) we would be lucky to see in Huatulco. It is the largest of the Mexican rabbits. Preferred habitats include temperate, subtropical or tropical dry forests, and pastureland. It is a common bunny and is found from Sinaloa south to the states of Veracruz and Oaxaca. It breeds year-round, but particularly in the wet season when there is more quality forage available. Although this bunny is pretty common, it still faces the threats typical for rabbits (and other wildlife), including loss of habitat through land use conversion (grazing, agriculture, urban development), hunting, and predation.

The eastern cottontail, Sylvilagus floridanus, is the most common cottontail in North America. Interestingly, it’s not the cottontail that forages on our meadow and lawn in northern Nevada – that’s the mountain cottontail (Sylvilagus nuttallii). The eastern cottontail has a short lifespan due to high rates of predation by numerous predators, rarely living past the age of two. It issues a creepy scream when injured (as does the mountain cottontail).

Sylvilagus graysoni is endemic to Mexico and is in danger of extinction. Its common name is the Tres Marías cottontail, as it is endemic to the Tres Marías Islands off the coast of Nayarit, where it was previously abundant. It is not found along the selva seca of Oaxaca or other dry tropical forests in Mexico. Given its limited range and occurrence, it only has three known wildlife predators: the Tres Marías racoon (Procyon lotor insularis), a subspecies of the common racoon, and two birds of prey, the red-tailed hawk (Buteo jamaicensis) and the crested caracara (Caracara plancus), the latter being common on our coast. The Tres Marías cottontail is also threatened by hunting. Although not a lot is known about their behavior, given the remoteness of the Tres Marías Islands and the low number of predators, the rabbit is purportedly not wary of humans. As with other rabbits in similar habitats, its diet changes from herbaceous vegetation in the rainy season to sticks and bark in the dry months of winter.

The Hares of the Isthmus

Lepus flavigularis is endemic to the Isthmus of Tehuantepec, more specifically the Gulf of Tehuantepec, and in fact the common name is the Tehuantepec or tropical jackrabbit. Historically it was found from Salina Cruz in Oaxaca to Tonalá just over the border in Chiapas, but has not been seen that far east in recent years. Currently there are four small populations, all located around the Upper and Lower Lagoons of the Gulf of Tehuantepec – Salina Cruz is the major population center on the Gulf.

This very large-eared (up to 5 in, or12 cm), slender-bodied hare is well adapted to its often arid and hot environment. The large surface area of its ears helps regulate its temperature; the size of the ears enhances its hearing and ability to detect predators. The hind feet are large and well developed, allowing for rapid escape from predators. In general, adults weigh from 7.7 to 8.8 pounds (3.5-4.5 kg), with a body that measures 22-24 inches long (55-60 cm) and a tail 2.5 to 3.5 inches (6.5- 9.5 cm) in length. This jackrabbit reaches sexual maturity at six or seven months and is polygamous; they typically reproduce during the rainy season when there is an abundance of forage. After around 32 days of gestation, the mother hare gives birth to one to four kits.

The Tehuantepec jackrabbit is crepuscular, meaning active at dusk, and nocturnal when the ambient temperature drops. Habitat and diet are grasslands, where they prefer to forage native rather than introduced grasses. Threats to this species are typical for many species of wildlife: habitat loss due to urban encroachment and agriculture; introduction of non-native species, particularly annual grasses; hunting; and predation by coyotes and foxes. For more detail check out the following link: https://www.lifeder.com/liebre-de-tehuantepec/.

Since their primary diet in the rainy season is grasses, why is Bugs Bunny always munching on a carrot? What’s up with that, doc?