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Huatulco, San Miguel de Allende

A Little Bit of France in Mexico

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By Alicia Flores—

Being Mexican is not just one thing. Mexican culture has been shaped by several influences, and one of the most fascinating is France. During the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, especially under Porfirio Díaz, French culture became associated with elegance, progress, and modernity. That influence can still be seen today in architecture, in food, and entire communities.

And if you know where to look, you can experience a little piece of France without ever leaving Mexico.

One of the most refined examples is Quinta Gameros in the northern state of Chuihuahua. This mansion was commissioned in 1907 by Manuel Gameros, a wealthy mining engineer who wanted a residence that reflected status and European sophistication. Designed by Colombian architect Julio Corredor Latorre, the house is one of the best examples of Art Nouveau architecture in Mexico. Its carved wood interiors, stained glass, and ornamental ironwork reflect the influence of French decorative arts that were fashionable at the time.

Construction began during the height of the Porfiriato, but history intervened. The Mexican Revolution forced Gameros to leave the country before he could truly enjoy the home. Over the years, the building has served multiple purposes, including as a federal building and later as part of the University of Chihuahua. Today, it houses a museum, where visitors can admire not only the architecture but also period furniture that helps recreate the atmosphere of early twentieth-century elite life in Mexico.

With the Torre Eiffel de Gómez Palacio, located in Durango, the French connection takes on a more symbolic form. This replica of the Eiffel Tower was installed in the early 2000s as part of a broader effort by local authorities to revitalize the city’s public spaces and create a recognizable landmark. Gómez Palacio has long been an industrial and railway hub, and the decision to build the tower reflects both civic pride and a desire to connect with a global icon of engineering and modernity.

Although it is not connected to Gustave Eiffel himself, the structure captures something powerful: the way the Eiffel Tower has become a universal symbol of innovation, romance, and aspiration. For residents, it represents more than a replica—it is a point of gathering, a visual landmark, and a reminder that global culture can be reinterpreted in local ways.

For a deeper and more immersive experience, the town of San Rafael , along with nearby Jicaltepec, offers a living legacy of French immigration in the state of Veracruz. Jicaltepec was established in 1833 as an agricultural colony by French settlers, who were drawn to the fertile lands nourished by the Nautla River. Many of these immigrants came from regions such as the Alps and eastern France, bringing with them farming techniques, baking traditions, and a strong connection to the land. They established agricultural communities, cultivating crops such as vanilla, citrus, and bananas.

Over time, the settlements of Jicaltepec and San Rafael grew into a unique cultural enclave where French and Mexican traditions blended. Even today, this heritage is visible in the local food. The region is known for its bakeries, as well as artisanal cheeses and dairy products influenced by French techniques, adapted to the tropical climate and local ingredients. Walking through the area, you can feel a quieter, more rural rhythm shaped by agriculture, tradition, and a history that connects Veracruz to Europe in a very tangible way.

These places remind us that Mexico’s identity is multi-faceted. French influence arrived during a time of ambition and transformation, leaving behind not only buildings but also traditions, flavors, and ideas that continue to evolve.

To travel through Mexico with this perspective is to see beyond expectations. It is to notice the details, the curve of an iron railing, the elegance of a façade, the taste of freshly baked bread—and to recognize that even here, far from France, its presence still lingers in quiet and surprising ways.

Huatulco

Why Oaxaca Is One of the Most Fascinating Cuisines in the World

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By Alicia Flores—

Travelers often arrive in Oaxaca, Mexico expecting tacos and margaritas. What they discover instead is one of the most intricate and culturally rich cuisines on earth.

Oaxacan cooking is not simply a collection of recipes; it is a living expression of geography, agriculture, and tradition. Corn, chile, cacao, herbs, seeds, and seasonal ingredients combine in ways that have evolved over centuries. Many techniques still used today predate the arrival of the Spanish.

At the heart of this cuisine is corn.

For thousands of years, Indigenous communities across Mexico have cultivated and refined maize varieties adapted to different climates and soils. The process of nixtamalization—soaking corn in an alkaline solution before grinding it into masa—is a technological achievement that transformed corn into a nutritionally complete food.

From this simple ingredient comes the tortilla, the foundation of daily life throughout Mexico.

Visitors are often surprised by how different a handmade tortilla tastes compared with the versions they may know from supermarkets. Fresh masa, pressed and cooked on a hot comal, produces tortillas that puff slightly as they cook, releasing a warm aroma of toasted corn.

It is a small moment that reveals just how deeply food and culture are intertwined.

Another hallmark of Oaxacan cuisine is mole. These complex sauces can contain dozens of ingredients—various chiles, seeds, spices, chocolate, and nuts—slowly toasted and blended into a deeply layered flavor profile. Every region and family has its own variation, and recipes are often passed down through generations.

Sourcing food play an essential role in the culinary landscape. A walk through the street of Huatulco reveals mountains of chiles, fresh herbs, cacao beans, cheeses, tropical fruits, and handmade tortillas. Cooking here begins with the ingredients themselves.

For travelers who want to understand these traditions more deeply, cooking classes can offer an extraordinary window into local culture. Learning how ingredients are prepared, how flavors are balanced, and how techniques have evolved over centuries brings the cuisine to life in a way that simply eating at restaurants cannot.

Food becomes a story.

In Huatulco,  cooking experiences give visitors the chance to explore this culinary heritage firsthand—preparing traditional dishes, learning about regional ingredients, and discovering why Oaxaca has earned a reputation as one of Mexico’s great gastronomic destinations.

Those curious to explore further can learn more about the experience offered by Chiles and Chocolate Cooking Classes, where guests dive into the history of Oaxacan cooking through hands-on preparation and discussion of the ingredients and traditions that define the cuisine.

Discover Oaxacan Cooking in Huatulco

For travelers who want to go beyond restaurant dining and truly understand the ingredients and traditions behind Oaxacan cuisine, hands-on cooking classes offer a unique perspective.

In Huatulco, Chiles and Chocolate Cooking Classes, led by Chef Jane Bauer, invite guests into the kitchen to explore the foundations of Mexican cooking. Participants learn about regional ingredients, traditional techniques, and the cultural stories that shape the cuisine of Oaxaca.

The cooking studio has eight stations which allows everyone to take part in the preparation of several dishes while discussing the role of corn, chiles, cacao, and other essential ingredients in Mexican food traditions.

By the end of the experience, guests leave not only with recipes but with a deeper understanding of why Oaxaca is considered one of the most important culinary regions in Mexico.

Classes run regularly in Huatulco and advance booking is recommended.

Learn more or reserve a spot here: http://www.huatulcofoodtours.com

Alicia Flores writes about food, culture, and travel in southern Mexico. She is particularly interested in traditional ingredients and the culinary heritage of Oaxaca.

Huatulco

Sound and Breath: Journeys of Healing in Oaxaca

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By Stephanie Whitford—

Pilgrimage in Mexico has always been more than a physical act of walking from one place to another. It is a journey of devotion, transformation, and connection, an experience that bridges the outer world of landscapes and traditions with the inner world of spirit and healing. In Oaxaca, where Indigenous wisdom and Catholic traditions intertwine, pilgrimage takes on a unique resonance. Here, sound healing, spiritual music, breathwork, and energetic frequencies are not modern inventions but echoes of practices that have guided seekers for centuries.

The Outer Journey: Walking Sacred Paths
Across Mexico, pilgrimages are woven into the cultural fabric. Millions walk each year to the Basilica of Guadalupe in Mexico City, while smaller communities in Oaxaca honor saints and ancestral spirits with local processions. For the Zapotecs, pilgrimage meant traveling to sacred mountains, caves, and temples—sites where the human spirit could align with cosmic order.

In Huatulco, the nine bays themselves invite pilgrimage. Walking along the shore at sunrise, climbing into the Sierra Madre foothills, or entering a temazcal sweat lodge are all acts of devotion. Each step outward becomes a prayer, each destination a reminder that the land itself is sacred.

The Inner Journey: Sound as Medicine
Sound has always accompanied pilgrimage. Indigenous healers used conch shells, drums, rattles, and chants to mark rhythm and call communities together. These vibrations were believed to restore harmony, dissolving dissonance in body and spirit.

Today, sound healing continues this tradition. Crystal singing bowls, gongs, and various other instruments create frequencies that bypass the analytical mind and open pathways to subconscious release. Spiritual music, whether ancient chants or contemporary compositions, becomes a companion on the journey. It reminds us that pilgrimage is not only about reaching a shrine but about listening deeply, allowing vibration itself to guide transformation.

Breathwork: The Pilgrimage Within
If sound is the external companion, breath is the internal guide. Breathwork, increasingly recognized in modern wellness, has deep roots in Mexico’s traditions. In the temazcal, participants breathe through heat and steam, surrendering what needs to be let go of and emerging renewed. Breath becomes a pilgrimage inward, a journey through intensity toward clarity.

As a teacher of conscious breathing, I believe that breath is the bridge between spirit and matter. In Oaxaca, this truth is lived daily. Each inhale is an invitation to receive abundance; each exhale, a chance to release limitation. Walking pilgrimages mirror this rhythm—inhale with each step forward, exhale with each pause. Breath transforms movement into meditation. Breath is the first step on an inner pilgrimage—a foundational key to well‑being that, when practiced with intention, has the power to transform your life on every level: physical, mental, and spiritual.

The Zapotecs believed the cosmos was structured by harmony. Rituals, music, and pilgrimage were ways of aligning with that order. Modern practitioners speak of energetic frequencies, vibrations that restore coherence to the body’s energy field. Whether through a drumbeat, a tuning fork, or the resonance of a crystal sound bowl, these frequencies remind us that healing is not only physical but energetic. Each of us breathes a unique frequency that seeks harmony.

In Oaxaca, this wisdom is not abstract. It is lived in festivals, in community rituals, and in the daily rhythm of life. Pilgrimage becomes a way of tuning oneself to the frequencies of land, spirit, and community.

Pilgrimage does not need to be a distant concept. Living in or visiting Huatulco, one can experience pilgrimage in everyday acts: walking the bays, listening to the ocean’s rhythm, breathing deeply into presence. These are small pilgrimages, journeys that connect us to Mexico’s cultural legacy and to our own inner truth.

Sound healing, spiritual music, breathwork, and energetic frequencies invite us to expand this practice. They remind us that pilgrimage is not only about movement across land, it is about resonance, vibration, and breath. It is about aligning with frequencies that heal, whether inherited from Indigenous traditions or discovered in contemporary practice.

Pilgrimage in Mexico is alive, evolving, and deeply resonant. It is the journey outside—walking to sacred sites, listening to communal music—and the journey within—breathing, listening, and allowing sound to heal. In Oaxaca and Huatulco, the legacy of the Zapotecs meets modern practices of sound healing and breathwork. Together, they invite us to see pilgrimage not as a destination but as a vibration: a journey of resonance that transforms both body and spirit.

Stephanie Whitford is an inspired living coach who blends breathwork, sound‑healing, yoga, fitness, and lifestyle practices to guide people on transformational wellness journeys back to their bodies and spirits. She teaches classes and workshops throughout Huatulco. Learn more at http://www.sunkissedfire.com

 

San Miguel de Allende

The Most Beautiful Churches in SMA Centro

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By Michael Solof—

It happens all the time. You’re new in town and want to see something special, or maybe you simply have a couple of hours to fill and feel like exploring somewhere different. That’s where this little walking tour comes in.

Today, we’ll visit four of the most beautiful and historically significant churches in San Miguel de Allende, all located within a few blocks of Centro. Along the way, we’ll touch on their architectural styles, histories, and why they continue to matter to the life of the city.

San Miguel de Allende is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, renowned for its well-preserved colonial architecture and striking religious buildings. Let’s begin at the heart of it all.

The Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel

The Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel is the city’s most iconic structure. The original church dates back to the early 17th century, though it underwent major renovations and expansion in the late 19th century. Its dramatic neo-Gothic façade was redesigned by local architect Zeferino Gutiérrez, who reportedly drew inspiration from European Gothic cathedrals.

The church is constructed from pink cantera, a volcanic stone widely used throughout the city and valued for both its durability and warm tonal variations. This material has become closely associated with San Miguel’s architectural identity.

Inside, visitors will find stained-glass windows, soaring arches, religious artworks, and impressive bell towers that dominate the skyline. Today, the Parroquia is one of the most photographed and recognizable churches in Mexico.

Over the years, the Parroquia has also accumulated its share of local legends and ghost stories — a common fate for historic churches. These tales belong more to popular imagination than documented history, but they add another layer to the building’s mystique, especially when seen at dusk.

Iglesia de la Inmaculada Concepción (Las Monjas)

Located near the Jardín Principal, the Iglesia de la Inmaculada Concepción— often referred to as Las Monjas—is one of the city’s architectural highlights.

Construction began in the mid-18th century, and the church is a fine example of Mexican Baroque architecture. Its most striking feature is the dome, which was inspired by European cathedral design and rises elegantly above the surrounding streets. The façade and dome glow beautifully in the late afternoon light, thanks again to the use of pink cantera stone.
Inside, the church contains richly decorated altarpieces covered in gold leaf, along with artwork created by local craftsmen. The church is dedicated to the Virgin of the Immaculate Conception, reflecting strong Spanish colonial influence in both its architecture and devotional focus.

Each year, the Feast of the Immaculate Conception is celebrated here, drawing a primarily local congregation and reinforcing the church’s role as a living part of San Miguel’s religious life.

Templo de San Francisco
(Corner of San Francisco and Juárez)

The Templo de San Francisco is among the oldest churches in the city. Construction began in 1683 under the direction of Franciscan friars, who played a central role in spreading Christianity throughout the region.

The exterior reflects restrained Baroque design, combining pink stone with white stucco for a striking but understated contrast. Inside, however, the church is far more ornate, featuring a beautifully crafted altar, decorative ceilings, and religious artwork.

While the church itself sits within the bustle of Centro, nearby courtyards and surrounding streets offer quieter moments for reflection. Each year, the Feast of Saint Francis is celebrated in early October, marking one of the church’s most important annual events.

Templo del Oratorio de San Felipe Neri
(Insurgentes 12)

The Oratorio de San Felipe Neri is an excellent example of 18th-century Baroque architecture paired with deep civic and religious significance.

Founded by the Oratorians—a religious order devoted to preaching, education, and community service—construction began in 1748 and was completed in 1753. The church’s elegant façade, carved from local pink stone, features intricate detailing that highlights the craftsmanship of the period. Its bell tower makes it a prominent landmark along Calle Insurgentes.

Inside, visitors will find a finely detailed altar, religious icons, and murals depicting saints and biblical scenes. The Oratorians were instrumental in establishing educational institutions in San Miguel, and their influence extended well beyond the church walls.

The Feast of San Felipe Neri is celebrated each May, maintaining the Oratorio’s role as an active center of worship and community life.

A City of Churches

The churches scattered throughout San Miguel de Allende offer a window into Mexico’s layered history—colonial ambition, religious devotion, artistic expression, and everyday life unfolding over centuries. While it would take weeks to visit them all, these four provide a rich introduction, all within a short walk of Centro.

Enjoy your travels—and take your time.

Michael Solof leads SMA Adventure Hound, a group which takes locals and newcomers to brunches and dinners at different restaurants every week and he also offers classes in the art of smartphone photography. You can contact him at WhatsApp +1-443-310-9214 for more info and to reserve.

San Miguel de Allende

The History of Fabrica La Aurora

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Rebecca Desiree C. —

Before becoming the center for creativity and culture known locally as La Aurora Centro de Arte y Diseño, La Aurora was once just a simple textile factory. Originally launched in 1902, Fabrica La Aurora operated as a major producer of fine cotton textiles in San Miguel de Allende.

For about nine decades, the factory would go on to provide a source of livelihood to hundreds of locals, but it would later shut down in 1991 due to declining demands for local fabrics and rising production costs.

For more than a decade following its shutdown, the factory lay abandoned until the descendants of its founders chose to put the property up for sale in the early years of the 21st century. This article will share a bit of the history of Fabrica Aurora and its transformation into one of San Miguel de Allende’s most celebrated centers for art, culture, and creative expression.
A Brief History of Old Fabrica La Aurora
Fabrica La Aurora was one of the largest and most important textile factories in central Mexico. According to local accounts, at its height, the factory employed more than 300 people and was a major player in the thread and textile market in Mexico.

The factory remained in business for most of the 20th century, dominating the textile market in central Mexico, spreading its products to the rest of the country. From the end of the 1970s, however, the factory began to face challenges that eventually lead to its gradual decline and closure. Some of these challenges included increased global textile competition, outdated machinery that struggled to keep up with modern production standards, and the economic instability that struck Mexico during the 1980s. The factory would continue to struggle for one more decade before finally closing down in 1991. While definitive archival records are scarce, local histories attribute the closure in 1991 to rising global competition, out-dated machinery and broader economic pressures in Mexico’s textile sector.

Upon the factory’s closure, most of its infrastructure was left in place, the entire facility abandoned. Things would stay this way until, over a decade later, the decision was made to sell the property. This single decision would go on to set the stage for one of the most creative and inspiring transformations in Mexico’s history.

From Abandoned Textile Factory to Hub of Creativity
In many ways, La Aurora’s transformation into one of the biggest cultural centers in San Miguel came as the result of a shared vision and a willingness to do what it takes to make said vision a reality.

The property was put up for sale in the early 2000s. Having been abandoned for over a decade, its machines corroded and its infrastructure in a clear state of disrepair, the sale was not a highly competitive one. However, this would end up working in favour of a small group of artists, designers, and investors, who shared a similar vision for the site’s revival.

For this group, the goal wasn’t to revive the factory to its glory days or even restore its facilities and infrastructure; it was to inspire. By turning this abandoned, local landmark into a cultural center, the group hoped not just to preserve a piece of San Miguel’s history but also to prove that even broken things can be transformed into something new and beautiful.

In 2004, the factory officially reopened, now under new management. Gone were the days of Fabrica La Aurora, the textile factory. In its place stood La Aurora Centro de Arte y Diseño, a haven dedicated to art, culture, and creativity.

La Aurora’s transformation from an abandoned 20th-century textile factory to the 21st-century creative and cultural powerhouse it is today didn’t happen by chance; it was the result of shared vision, determination, and unwavering belief that art could breathe new life into history.

Behind La Aurora’s transformation stand the bold artists and designers who chose to reimagine what was once a relic of industry into a living canvas of creativity. Notable names here include Christopher Fallon, Mary Rapp, Merry Calderoni, and DeWayne Youts, amongst others. Where most people saw heavily deteriorated infrastructure and machinery that had accumulated over a decade’s worth of rust and decay, these men and women saw the chance to build something extraordinary from the remnants of the past.

La Aurora Today — More Than Just a Renovated Factory
Today, the transformation of La Aurora is an inspiring example of cultural regeneration. In just two decades, the formerly abandoned factory had transformed into a creative sanctuary for artists and designers that houses a collection of art and design studios, galleries, and workshops.

Since its reopening the property has gone through a few renovations to fit its new purpose. Halls and corridors that used to house rows of looms and spinning machines now proudly display galleries and studios showcasing paintings, sculptures, furniture, and handcrafted designs from various artists and designers.

In just two decades, La Aurora had successfully reinvented itself. A quick look at the Cultural Center of Art and Design, La Aurora, today, and you’d be hard-pressed to see that century-old factory that was left unattended for over a decade. Instead, what you’d see is a thriving cultural landscape rich with art, design, and imagination; proof that even once-abandoned things can be given new life and made relevant again.

La Aurora Centro de Arte y Diseño is located just north of San Miguel’s historic center and is open to the public year-round, with regular art walks, exhibitions, and cafés within the old factory walls.

San Miguel de Allende

A Culinary Journey Through San Miguel: Discovering Hidden Gems

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By Michael Solof —

For over five years, through my group SMA Adventure Hound, I have been introducing newcomers, tourists, and locals, twice a week, to a large variety of brunch and dinner spots around town. That’s more than 300 different restaurants, including local food trucks, vineyards, and fine dining adventures.

When The Eye magazine asked me to write an article on my favorite eating places around town, it felt like a daunting task. I asked them if I could just focus on my favorite secret places. These are spots that are sometimes hidden away, off the beaten track or sometimes they’re hiding behind an unmarked door on one of the busy main streets. My challenge was to pick a breakfast, lunch, and dinner place that maybe isn’t the first thing that pops into people’s mind… but should be.

BREAKFAST
Aldama 9 (also goes by Posada Corazón)
San Miguel is gorgeous in the mornings. It’s cool and crisp before the sun works its way up into the sky, making it the perfect time to head out to a spot where you can enjoy a cup of coffee and a wonderful meal to start your day. My favorite secret spot for breakfast hides itself better than Waldo in a building-sized mural! Aldama 9 is concealed behind a small door with nothing more than a small plaque with the address: #9. That’s it. No signs, no greeters, nothing indicating that behind this door is one of the most beautiful breakfast spots in all of SMA. Next to the door is a small speaker with a button. Push the button, and they will ring you in.

As you enter there is a beautiful walkway leading past a huge old tree stretching up to the sky. If you follow that walkway down and to the left, you’ll see a building that could easily have been designed by my favorite architect, Frank Lloyd Wright.

Across from an open kitchen are two huge window doors that rotate from the center like revolving doors, leading to the outdoor balcony where they serve breakfast every morning from 8 AM to 12 noon. But first, go into the main library full of books lining the walls, a fireplace, and lots of comfy chairs. I can’t think of a more magnificent room to relax in.

Seating is available inside or out on the balcony overlooking chickens, roosters, and their private garden, where the owners grow veggies and offer organic menu options based on what’s available in the garden that day. On Sundays, they also have a buffet and usually have a harpist playing quietly in the background. It’s quite lovely. Brunch runs about 200 pesos (250 on Sunday) and is worth every exquisite bite. The service is always excellent, and the huge variety of food is just plain delicious. Please make sure you pet the many friendly cats and dogs who you’ll often see lounging around the place. So cute.

LUNCH
El Encanto – Relox No. 41 (just across the street from the side entrance of the Biblioteca on Relox)

If you like Mexican charm, look no further than El Encanto. It is located a five-minute walk from the center of town. Covered from floor to ceiling in vibrant Mexican murals and filled with decorations, this is the place I take visitors to feel that old-world Mexican spirit.

Although they have a breakfast menu from 9 AM to 1 PM, the lunch and dinner menu is where it’s at! It features over 10 pages of items, all inexpensively priced, stunningly plated, and huge portions to boot. I usually have enough to take some home for dinner! The lasagnas, salads, and pastas are phenomenal and freshly prepared to order. Though the wait can be a little longer, the generous portion sizes and beautifully presented dishes make it well worth it. I have been taking people here for years, and the place never ceases to astound my guests!

Meals run around 250-300 pesos. Closed on Mondays.

After your meal, make sure to check out the Biblioteca (Library) across the street. It contains the largest collection of English-language books in all of Mexico! To top it off, the bookstore is a fabulous place to get gifts, see a show in their tiny theater, or grab a snack in their café.

DINNER
Mestiza – Hermanos Aldama No. 43 (located on the back terrace through all the stores)

Mestiza nudges past the competition as my favorite dinner spot. The restaurant is run by two incredibly nice guys, George and Javier. Located about a ten-minute stroll from the Jardin, this gem is situated in a stunning secret garden that captures the essence of Mexico with its aromas, warmth, and rich traditions.

Mestiza specializes in celebrating ancestral recipes passed down through generations, showcasing dishes such as enmoladas, sopecitos mestizos, and gorditas de cochinita pibil. Each dish is a testament to the culinary heritage of Mexico, and every visit yields rave reviews from my guests. The restaurant is also whimsical and kid-friendly, with tiny gnomes hidden throughout.

Mestiza specializes in Mexican food with a European twist and has won many awards for its delectable dishes. It has been voted as my group’s favorite restaurant for both years. There is one more key reason to go to Mestiza. I collect voluntary donations for the local pet rescues in town at all my events and last year, we collected over 60,000 pesos. I have two rescues myself, so it’s a cause near and dear to my heart. Of the almost 300 spots we’ve gone to in five years, Mestiza is the only one to give back a significant portion of their proceeds as a donation for the pets. The owners have several rescued animals too.

Whether you’re a long-time resident or a first-time visitor, San Miguel de Allende offers a rich culinary landscape. From the quiet mornings at Aldama 9 to the charming lunches at El Encanto and the delicious dinners at Mestiza, these spots provide not just meals, but experiences that capture the heart and soul of this beautiful town.

So, venture beyond the well-trodden paths and indulge in culinary delights that promise to make your time in San Miguel unforgettable.

Michael Solof leads SMA Adventure Hound, a group which takes locals and newcomers to brunches and dinners at different restaurants every week and he also offers classes in the art of smartphone photography. You can contact him at WhatsApp +1-443-310-9214 for more info and to reserve.