Tag Archives: Travel & Tourism

Editor’s Letter

By Jane Bauer

How much information can your brain hold?

I was listening to a talk by Dr. Charan Ranganath, a professor of Psychology and Neuroscience and Director of the Dynamic Memory Lab at the University of California, and he said “Memory is selective, so it is better to focus on quality over quantity.” He went on to describe how our brain discards information that is superfluous, much the way we empty our computer’s ‘recycle bin’.

When I was a growing up my mother consumed ‘news’ from 6pm-6:30pm while she cooked dinner, via the radio, courtesy of the CBC. She would shush anyone who needed to speak to her during this sacred half hour. Even then, I recognized that there is a dark kind of pleasure to hearing about crises in other parts of the world.

Gitnux.org reports that today average media consumption worldwide is 455 minutes per day. In 2021, U.S. adults spent 13 hours and 35 minutes per day consuming media. That is a lot! It is not just when you reach for your phone, there are screens everywhere vying for your attention.

I love using the word ‘consume’ when talking about media because it drives home the idea that it is something that really enters us, like food and sustenance. Yet, we treat it like something that glosses over us, disregarding its power and heft to shape us. While this issue looks at journalism, I invite you all to examine how media influences your life?

As Dr. Charan Ranganath suggests, focus on quality rather than quantity. Ask yourself “What do you really need to know?” One of the largest shifts with the rise of the internet’s presence in our lives is that not only are we consumers but we have become the product. Each time you search for something, make an online purchase or post, your habits are monitored and assessed so that companies can help you to ‘consume’ more efficiently.

When it comes to news consumption, what your internet browser shows you will be very different from what it shows someone who holds vastly different views from yours. While this may seem efficient, it actually creates a false sense that most of the world thinks just like you when the truth is that your reality is only showing you a slice of what is out there.

Be as selective about what you watch, read and listen to as you are about what you eat. Keep informed but also put your phone down and look at the world around you.

See you in July!

Exploring Mexico’s Top News Sources

By Jane Bauer

In today’s fast-paced digital world, staying informed is crucial. With a plethora of news sources available, it can be challenging to discern which ones offer reliable, accurate, and unbiased information. Whether you’re a local resident, a tourist, or simply interested in Mexican affairs, here’s a curated list of some of the best news sources in Mexico to help you stay up-to-date.

El Universal: Founded in 1916, El Universal is one of Mexico’s oldest and most respected newspapers. It covers a wide range of topics, including politics, economics, culture, and international affairs. With a reputation for balanced reporting and insightful analysis, El Universal remains a go-to source for many Mexicans seeking reliable news.
http://www.eluniversal.com.mx

Reforma: Renowned for its in-depth investigative journalism and comprehensive coverage of current events, Reforma is another prominent newspaper in Mexico. It has a strong online presence, offering multimedia content and opinion pieces alongside its news articles. Reforma is often praised for its commitment to journalistic integrity and accuracy.
http://www.reforma.com

Excélsior: Established in 1917, Excélsior is one of Mexico’s most influential newspapers. It provides extensive coverage of national and international news, with a focus on politics, business, and culture. Excélsior is known for its high editorial standards and objective reporting, making it a trusted source for many readers.
http://www.excelsior.com.mx

Animal Político: As a digital media outlet, Animal Político has gained popularity for its investigative reporting and coverage of social justice issues in Mexico. It focuses on political analysis, corruption, human rights, and environmental issues, often presenting stories from marginalized perspectives. Animal Político is widely regarded for its transparency and commitment to holding power to account.
http://www.animalpolitico.com

Proceso: A weekly news magazine renowned for its investigative journalism and critical analysis of Mexican politics, Proceso has been a staple in the country’s media landscape since 1976. It covers a wide range of topics, including corruption, crime, and human rights, often delving into controversial subjects. Proceso’s in-depth reporting and fearless approach to storytelling have earned it a dedicated readership.
http://www.proceso.com.mx

Milenio: Milenio is a multimedia news outlet known for its up-to-the-minute coverage of breaking news and events in Mexico. It offers a mix of articles, videos, and opinion pieces across various platforms, catering to diverse audiences. Milenio’s commitment to accuracy and timeliness has made it a popular choice for those seeking real-time updates on current affairs.
http://www.milenio.com

La Jornada: La Jornada is a left-leaning daily newspaper recognized for its progressive editorial stance and alternative viewpoints. It covers politics, social issues, culture, and the arts, often featuring opinion pieces from prominent intellectuals and activists. La Jornada’s commitment to social justice and grassroots reporting sets it apart in Mexico’s media landscape.
http://www.jornada.com.mx

CNN en Español: For those seeking international news with a Mexican perspective, CNN en Español offers comprehensive coverage of global events. With correspondents stationed across Mexico and Latin America, CNN en Español provides in-depth analysis and live reporting on breaking news, politics, business, and more.
http://www.cnnespanol.cnn.com

BBC Mundo: While not a Mexican news outlet per se, BBC Mundo provides Spanish-language coverage of global news and events, including those relevant to Mexico. Its reputation for impartiality and high-quality journalism makes it a valuable resource for Mexicans seeking a broader perspective on world affairs.
http://www.bbc.com/mundo

While this list is by no means exhaustive, these news sources represent some of the best options for staying informed about Mexico’s dynamic political, social, and cultural landscape. By diversifying your media consumption and critically evaluating sources, you can gain a well-rounded understanding of the issues shaping Mexico and the world.

Journalists, Avocados, and Cartels

By Julie Etra

Journalists
We recently made a trip to the state of Michoacán, Mexico, specifically to the monarch butterfly reserve at ‘El Rosario’ (which was a magical amazing experience), and then on to Morelia, the capital of the state. After spending a few days in Mexico City, we hired a driver to take us on the three-hour drive to the reserve. From the reserve to Morelia required an initial ‘taxi’ ride in two small pick-up trucks (to accommodate the four of us and our luggage) to the central bus terminal in Zitácuaro where we took the very comfortable 3.5-hour bus ride to Morelia.

We were traveling with friends, and I did not tell them until the trip was over that Zitácuaro was recently featured in the Sunday N.Y. Times magazine section as one of the most dangerous places to be a reporter in all of Mexico. Mexico follows the Ukraine in being the second most dangerous place in the world to be an investigative reporter.

According to the article, under the Presidency of Felipe Calderon, starting in 2006, and his ineffective crackdown on drugs, at least 128 reporters have been killed in Mexico, 13 of them last year alone. The article focused on the founder and lead reporter of the local media outlet Monitor Michoacán, Armando Linares, who was dedicated to exposing corruption in Zitácuaro, hinting at the connection of the mayor to cartels. We were highly unlikely to be exposed to that sort of risk, being uninvolved foreigners, during our two hours at the central bus terminal. Nonetheless, I recalled the article, as it was on my mind during our departure from the reserve, our few hours in Zitácuaro, enroute through the town, and then on to Morelia.

Avocados
Avocados (Persea americana), a fruit and not a vegetable, most likely originated in the vicinity of Puebla, Mexico, about 10,000 years ago (similar to the domestication of corn). The English word avocado is derived from the Spanish word aguacate, which the Spaniards derived from the Nahuatl word ahuacatl (meaning testicle). It is called oon in Maya, and palta in Quechua. In the United States of America (US) avocado trees were first planted in Florida in 1833 and then in California in 1856.

Although the US lifted its 83-year import ban in 1997, shipments to California were not allowed at the time due to concern over competitive lower priced Mexican avocados and supposed fear of foreign pests. California finally began imports in 2007, as the state, with limited suitable growing conditions, simply could not meet the demands of this increasingly popular fruit. In 1985, Americans ate 436 million pounds of avocados per year. By 2020, that number exploded to 2.7 billion pounds.

Avocado consumption in the US peaks during the Superbowl, although the average consumption is said to be seven lbs. of avocados /year. I can attest that in our Huatulco household we average eight avocados per week. This seemingly excessive consumption is vastly curtailed when back in the US due to cost and sometimes quality. Even with the peso at 16.3:1 US dollar as of this writing, one avocado averages 90 cents in Huatulco as opposed to an average of $1.50 per avocado at the bargain outlets in the US and as high as 2.98 for one organic avocado.

Michoacán produces more avocados than any other state in Mexico, as the small trees thrive in well drained soils of volcanic origin, and sunny climates. It is followed by Jalisco and the Estado de Mexico. Mexico (the country) exports about half of the avocados consumed worldwide. In 2022 this was valued at just under 3.5 billion in US currency, with the US being by far the biggest consumer estimated at 3 billion, receiving 86% of Mexican exports (95% of these are Hass avocados).
From Mexico City to the reserve, in the vicinity of the reserve, and on our way to Morelia we certainly noticed all the monocultures of avocado orchards. There is concern that deforestation and land use conversion to avocado orchards is destroying the oak/pine woodlands, increasing water demand, and the only sanctuary for monarch butterflies in the world, for which Michoacán is famous. A 2016 Associated Press report said that as many as 20,000 acres of forest was being converted to avocado orchards, with an estimated loss of one-fifth of the native forests from 2001 to 2017 and increasing dramatically since 2017.
Avocados consume 50 – 60 litres of water per day. In contrast, a native pine tree consumes roughly 11 liters of water per day. However, avocado trees are not particularly fertilizer consumptive. Irrigation can be reduced with inoculation of symbiotic mycorrhiza, a type of soil fungi that greatly increases uptake of phosphorus and water. One study I read concluded that the growth rate of inoculated avocado trees was a massive 250% higher than uninoculated trees. Producers of quality inocula are extremely reluctant to approach growers, for reasons addressed below.

Cartels and Avocados
Are cartels involved in this rapidly expanding agro industry? In August 2023 National Public Radio (NPR), a USA nonprofit radio network podcast, featured a story entitled: Caliber 60: The violent underbelly of the avocado industry (www.npr.org/podcasts/1162033047/caliber-60). It is well known that Cartel Jalisco Nueva Generación has been involved in the industry, extortion and extreme violence being common practices.
In response, some communities in Michoacán have formed their own citizen self-defense groups like Pueblos Unidos, who, according to the podcast, turned out to be equally bad as the narcos. The title refers to the fact that at least 80% of the firearms in Mexico can be traced to the US.

While we were in Morelia, I picked up a local paper (February 29, 2024) that included an article about a meeting between the governor of Michoacan and the US ambassador to Mexico, Ken Salazar. The meeting focused on the US’s desire to only import avocados that have been grown on land that has not been illegally de-forested (I assume recently) and certified accordingly. Further, ‘This is consistent with both countries’ efforts to combat climate change and is in the interest of American consumers and members of the Indigenous communities of Michoacán and Jalisco who are at risk for defending their forests and water,” said Sen. Peter Welch, a Democrat from Vermont, alluding to organized crime.

Journalists
Full circle, back to journalists and journalism; Mexico can be a tough country. In 2021, President Andrés Manuel López Obrador (aka AMLO), took aim, so to speak, at three reporters during his morning press briefing, including Ciro Gómez Leyva, a well-known T.V. anchor. Leyva subsequently barely escaped an assassination attempt; his car was protected with bullet-resistant glass windows.

As for the media outlet, the Monitor Michoacán, the cameraman was assassinated first, and the subject of the article, the founder and lead journalist determined to expose a link between the local government and the cartels, was murdered in his home 46 days later. From the NY Times article, the author wrote ‘Mexico is a hall of mirrors to any journalist. It is so hard to tell who is telling the truth because the line between crime fighter and criminal has become so blurred it often ceases to exist.’

AMLO and the Press: From the Mañaneras to Murder?

By Deborah Van Hoewyk

When Andrés Manuel López Obrador, better known as AMLO, was elected president of Mexico in 2018, he promised to “fix” many things – from government corruption to cartel violence, from income equality to uneven development. Some have seen progress, some have not.

AMLO keeps Mexicans apprised of his progress with five-day-a-week press conferences that start at 7 am and last 2 hours on average – these are called his mañaneras. Let’s just set aside the question of how the president of the world’s 10th largest population, 12th largest economy, and the 14th largest area, has that much time to spend talking rather than doing. What do the mañaneras contribute to AMLO’s agenda for governing Mexico?

At his daily press conference, AMLO would in theory be discussing the most important issues facing the country, responding to questions from reporters. This represents a sharp departure from previous presidents, who were mostly seen at formal public events if at all – Enrique Peña Nieto, the last president, in particular.

The Mañaneras – How – and What – AMLO Communicates

According to Francisco José de Andrea Sánchez, who holds a doctorate of law from UNAM and serves as principal investigator for UNAM’s Institute for Legal Research, the mañaneras “are the cornerstone of [AMLO’s] communication” with his followers, the people of Mexico, and even members of the government. The mañaneras are a logical outcome of the way AMLO achieved the presidency. Without social media, Andrea Sánchez argues, AMLO would not have been elected – he used social networks to get around “the media monopoly” that would not have argued his case.

The daily press conferences “avoid that same monopoly,” in a way that no other president of a major democracy has managed to do. Andrea Sánchez argues that AMLO’s two previous defeats in the presidential election led him to look for “non-censorable direct communication alternatives” to get around the “monopoly of the written and electronic mass media” that covers Mexican elections. (Earlier, AMLO had staged frequent press conferences as mayor of Mexico City, carried by BBC Mundo.)

In an interview with the LatAm Journalism Review in March of this year, Javier Garza Ramos, an independent Mexican journalist who specializes in security and protection, said the mañaneras “started as an exercise with a lot of promise, a promise of transparency where we hoped that the president would be open and answer questions from the media about important issues. But really within a few months we realized that it had become a propaganda exercise.”

Garza Ramos now describes the mañaneras as “useless,” because they are being used as a “tool of government.” For example, AMLO can put topics on the agenda that turn out “to be so frivolous” that “they absorb a lot of discussion that sometimes we don’t turn to see more important things” – like recent news about corruption or violence: “The president uses [the mañanera] to divert attention” from what he doesn’t want to talk about.

Article 19, an international organization that works to protect freedom of expression, has its hub for Mexico and Central America in Mexico City. They find that the key factor undermining the nature of the morning press conferences is that AMLO only answers questions from journalists seen as favoring his administration.

A Space to Attack Journalists

And what happens when AMLO encounters journalists who ask, when and if they get a chance, critical questions? The mañaneras are widely seen as “favorable spaces for attacking media and journalists, and even for the spread of disinformation.” When a reporter does manage to ask a question that makes AMLO uncomfortable, he is likely to reply “You are vendidos (sell-outs), you are corrupt,” or “You are plotting against the government,” or “You are attacking the government.” He describes his responses as defending the government’s honor and public power.

One of AMLO’s “defense strategies” is “doxing” journalists – that is, he approves of the release of information from personal documents (“dox”), identifying information that, in the case of journalists, encourages harassment and worse. In January of this year, information on all the journalists who attend the mañaneras was released. AMLO said the database was hacked. The New York Times said it was “a troubling and unacceptable tactic from a world leader at a time when threats against journalists are on the rise.”

In 2022, Reuters – in an undignified headline, “Mexican president names salary of critical journalist in row over reporting” – reported that AMLO said the increase from 2021 to 2022 in journalist Carlos Loret de Mola’s salary was because he was paid to do “hatchet jobs” on AMLO personally and his government. Doxing Loret de Mola was a defense of his “political project of ending injustice and corruption … This is not a personal matter. My conscience is clear.”

This winter, on Friday, February 23, AMLO doxed Natalie Kitroeff, bureau chief of The New York Times for Mexico, Central America, and the Caribbean. The doxing came in tandem with the publication in the Times of an article headlined “U.S. Examined Allegations of Cartel Ties to Allies of Mexico’s President”; note that, although the U.S. spent years on the investigation, they declined to investigate AMLO himself, as (according to unauthorized anonymous sources) the “government had little appetite to pursue allegations against the leader of one of America’s top allies.”

When queried as to whether he was endangering Kitroeff and had broken Mexico’s law of Federal Protection of Personal Data, AMLO said the doxing was not a mistake. He would do it again “when it comes to a matter where the dignity of the president of Mexico is at stake. The political and moral authority of the president of Mexico is above that.” Although he has come very close, even former U.S. President Donald Trump has not said he is above the law.

AMLO went on to say that murders of journalists were overstated, and that critical media outlets and journalists were seeking “economic and political power.” According to the LatAm Journalism Review, he said to the assembled journalists: “You feel you are embroidered by hand, like a divine, privileged race, you can slander with impunity as you have done with us … and one cannot touch you even with the petal of a rose.” One might wonder whether AMLO’s hostility to the press is a matter of deep-seated personal psychology.

Article 19 analysis also focuses on AMLO’s use of disinformation in the mañaneras. The group asked for corroboration on 34 statements AMLO made at the mañaneras or in public speeches; 32 of the 34 statements were not corroborated.

Violence against Mexican Journalists in 2023

The Mexican press, according to, among others, The Guardian (a global English-language news outlet), believes that attacks against the country’s journalists stem directly from AMLO’s mañaneras, which are an “invitation to violence.” Reporting on an open letter from Mexican journalists after an assassination attempt on news anchor Ciro Gómez Leyva in December of 2022, The Guardian asserts that conditions for journalists, which weren’t great when AMLO took office, “have deteriorated dramatically” since then. Although AMLO apparently condemned the assassination attempt, “just 24 hours earlier [he] had been publicly denigrating the journalist, warning Mexicans that if they listened to such people too much they risked developing brain tumours.”

In its 2023 report on violence against the Mexican Press, Violencia contra la prensa en México en 2023: ¿cambio o continuidad? (Violence against the press in Mexico in 2023: Change or continuation?), Article 19 defined three kinds of attacks: direct intimidation and harassment; the illegitimate use of public power to stigmatize or use judicial processes to harass; physical and digital threats. AMLO’s behavior in his mañeras is the second type, the abuse of public power. (According to the Committee to Protect Journalists, part of the John S. and James L. Knight Press Freedom Center in New York City, AMLO has accused Article 19 of “being funded by the U.S. government” to work against AMLO, thus “violating our sovereignty” – he made these accusations on World Press Freedom Day, May 3, 2023).

Article 19 found that there were fewer attacks on journalists and media outlets in 2022, which saw 561 attacks on the press, including 5 murders and 1 disappearance of journalists, than in 2023, when there were 696 attacks on the press and 12 murders.

Of the 561 attacks in 2023, 224 (40%) comprised intimidation, harassment, and threats, while 106 (19%) were abuse of public power. The remaining 41% of attacks were divided into 13 categories, with blocking or changing journalistic content, physical attacks, hacking, destruction of property, and false arrest making up 33% of the total.

Over half the attacks on the press were committed by “officials” – public employees, police, national guard, and other armed forces. The remaining attacks were carried out by individuals (actores particulares, including AMLO in his mañaneras), the cartels (10%), political parties, and unidentified attackers.

Attacks on the press appear to be related to the topics reporters cover: 53% of attacks were on those who report on politics and corruption; 24% on reporters on security and justice; and just under 10% each on those who report on protests/social movements or human rights. About 54% of attacks were on men, 30% on women, and 16% on media outlets.

The reduction in overall attacks between 2022 to 2023 is about 20%, but Article 19 still asks whether this is a real change, or merely a matter of fewer reports of violence. The report covers the next-to-last year of AMLO’s term of office, but Article 19 cites a similar reduction in attacks on the press in the next-to-last year of Felipe Calderón’s term – only to see an increase in the last year.

We will have to wait and see.

Editor’s Letter

By Jane Bauer

“The savanna hypothesis
addresses the issue of how we select places to
live and why we find some landscapes more beautiful than others. The central argument is that our preferences in this domain were shaped over evolutionary time through the repeated selection of safe and healthy environments over dangerous
and resource poor landscapes.”
Kevin Bennett
Department of Psychology, Pennsylvania State

On a podcast I listened to recently, the interviewee suggested that each of us has a landscape that defines us. I hadn’t thought of looking at the world this way but it made a lot of sense. The chef being interviewed talked about his pull towards certain types of food and certain landscapes which, if he looked back far enough, were a part of his ancestry.

I wondered, what landscape am I? Where do I feel most at home? What are the sensations I crave; open desert spaces, high mountains, plains with grasses, the woods or the wide ocean and a sandy beach?

I didn’t have to think too hard. I am drawn to the forest and the jungle. I yearn to feel dwarfed by an army of majestic trees, small dirt paths, and rocky rivers that cleave and twist their the way between hills. I love seeing sunlight speckled through canopies of tree branches, Japanese has a word for this: komorebi.

When people ask me how I got here, I tell them about that first visit and the people I met. That something made me want to return, I try and find the words for it but they always seem to slip away. I don’t mention the landscape because it sounds sort of silly and fantastical, but that is what it really was. I came to this seam where the mountains kiss the ocean, it closed me in between the lapping waves and the darkness of its forest. It beckoned me down dirt paths and up river beds and waterfalls. Stay with me it said and I did.

This month our writers explore outdoor pursuits. We hope it encourages you to do a little exploring. If it does, please let us know via email or on our socials.

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*All our previous articles and issues are available on the website.

Happy Exploring,

Open Water Swimming in Huatulco

By Randy Jackson

For me, the greatest thing about Huatulco is the variety of outdoor activities available: swimming, snorkeling, scuba diving, surfing, boogie boarding, biking, golf, pickleball, beach volleyball, pool volleyball, kayaking, fishing, paddle boarding, mountain biking, bird watching, and hiking. I’ve done all of these activities in Huatulco, but my favorite activity has migrated to open-water swimming. And what an ideal place Huatulco is for travesía aguas abiertas.

There are nine official bays in Huatulco and many more coves with beaches. In April 2022, I wrote an article for The Eye on swimming each of the nine official bays of Huatulco. Swimming in the different bays or coves is delightful, and swimmers can go farther distances by swimming between beaches.

Some Open-Water Distances

Based in Santa Cruz, I am most familiar with this area’s more common open-water swims. All of these are swims I have either done or heard of others doing:

● Santa Cruz beach: From the rocks on the west (below the Nirú Beach Club) to the cruise ship pier: 200 meters
● Santa Cruz Rectangle: From the rocks on the west to the cruise ship pier, out along the pier to the end, across the bay past the first green buoy and back to the beach: 1 km
● Santa Cruz beach to the first green buoy and back: 750 meters
● Santa Cruz beach to the second green buoy and back: 1.5 Km
● Santa Cruz beach to Entrega beach: 1.2 Km
● Santa Cruz beach to Chahué beach: 2.5 Kms
● Órgano beach to Maguey beach: 1.5 Km
● Maguey beach to Violin beach: 2.5 Km
● El Tejon beach to Chahué beach: 1.2 Km
● El Tejon beach to Esperanza beach: 750 meters
● Cacaluta beach, loop around Cacaluta Island and return: 2 Km

Some Swim Resources for Huatulco

Yair Santiago Ortiz is a swim instructor and coach based in Huatulco. He welcomes new clients and is fluent in both English and Spanish. He can be reached at (phone/Whatsapp): +52 559 185 1023.

Each year in February, an open water swim event is held at Santa Cruz bay in Huatulco. This event is available for ages 7 to 60+ with timed swim distances of 500 meters, 1.25 km, 2.5 km, and 5 km. Potential entrants can find Information for the event on the RenueVa Facebook page:
http://www.facebook.com/renueva.ac.9/.

Each February, Karlyn Pipes, a champion professional swimmer and swim coach, hosts a seven-day swim camp in Huatulco. For more information, visit her website: https://karlynpipes.com/huatulco-mexico-swim-camps.

Another open-water swim competition takes place at Santa Cruz Huatulco in October: http://www.granretto.com/proximos-eventos/detalle?id=11.

For general information about open-water swimming in both fresh and salt water, and a list of certified open-water swim events, check out the World Open Water Swimming Association (WOWSA, http://www.openwaterswimming.com/); they certify a fresh-water swim of six different lengths at the Zimapám Dam in Querétaro in October. The Open Water Pedia listed the top 50 open-water swims in Mexico for 2018-19 – you can Google each swim to see whether it is still being held
(www.openwaterpedia.com/wiki/Mexico%27s_Top_50_Open_Water_Swims).

Swimming for Physical Fitness

Swimming is an aerobic, cardiovascular physical activity that includes all the positive benefits of physical exercise, but swimming also has some unique advantages over other forms of exercise. Swimming is particularly beneficial for people with arthritis. Swimming improves the functioning of arthritic joints without worsening symptoms. Swimming is a form of exercise especially recommended for older adults, as it improves range of motion, flexibility, and upper body strength. Regular swimming has also demonstrated improvements in the mental health of all ages.

Blue Spaces

Many studies have shown that time spent in nature benefits our mental well-being and promotes the emotions of happiness and contentment. Urban environments, especially the winter months in northern latitudes, make interactions with nature difficult. That is less of an issue in Huatulco, where nature in its tropical splendor surrounds us. The greenery and flowers are part of the natural environment here, but importantly, the ocean provides, in abundance, the benefits of blue spaces. Blue spaces are natural environments where water (oceans, rivers, lakes, streams) contributes natural benefits to our mental well-being.

In his book Blue Mind: The Surprising Science That Shows How Being Near, In, On or Under Water Can Make You Happier, Healthier, More Connected, and Better at What You Do (2015) marine biologist Wallace J. Nichols, Ph.D., outlines the remarkable effects of water in all its shapes and forms on our health and well-being. Although there are many ways to attain Blue Mind benefits, some simply by being near water or listening to its sounds, swimming is the total immersion with nature and a way to enter the Blue Mind zone.

Swimming Movies for Inspiration

There are several movies that depict swimming as a vehicle of personal transformation.

NYAD (2023, available on Netflix)

Starring Annette Bening and Jodie Foster, who received Oscar nominations for Best Actress and Best Supporting Actress, respectively, NYAD is about the 60-year-old former marathon swimming champion Diana Nyad, who endeavors to swim from Cuba to Key West Florida, a swim she failed to complete when she was in her swimming prime at age 28. Based on Nyad’s memoir Find a Way: The Inspiring Story of One Woman’s Pursuit of a Lifelong Dream (2016), the film uses a line from “The Summer Day,” a Mary Oliver poem (1999) – “Tell me, what is it you plan to do with your one wild and precious life?” – as a catalyst to undertake such a swimming quest. Spoiler alert: she makes it (eventually).

The Swimmers (2022, available on Netflix)

This film tells the touching, true story of two female swimmers (sisters) who fled war-torn Syria, ending up on an overloaded migrant boat headed to Europe when the motor failed. Almost none of the migrants on board could swim, so the two sisters pushed, pulled, and dragged the raft to shore. One of the sisters went on to compete in the Olympics. Beyond the swimming, this movie is a heartfelt tale of the humanity of refugees, who risk everything to escape violence and persecution.

The Swimmer (2020, available through AEON Magazine):

A 12-minute video by filmmaker Thomas Beug about long-distance swimmer Stephen Redmond, both of them Irish, about the transcendence of swimming; he finds an “ineffable sense of purpose” in open-water swimming. Redmond is the first person to complete the marathon swimming challenge Oceans Seven, with swims ranging from 10 to 27 miles (16-44 km) across the English Channel, the North Channel (between Scotland and Ireland), the Strait of Gibraltar, the Catalina Channel in California, the Moloka’i Channel in Hawai’i, the Cook Strait in New Zealand, and the Tusgaru Strait in Japan.

The Swimmer (1968, available on Amazon Prime)

The story is of Ned Merrill (Burt Lancaster), who emerges from the forest wearing a bathing suit and goes to a swimming pool of some welcoming, friendly neighbors. He then embarks on a quest to swim across the various pools of his wealthy neighbors in a quest to “swim home.” As he goes from pool to pool, the neighbors become less friendly, and he slowly realizes things are not as he thought. He comes to face the failures of his past – based on a short story by the American author John Cheever.

Overall, I would suggest that most open-water swimmers don’t need much inspiration to go for a swim. Huatulco is a fantastic place to do that. Recently (March 8), I encountered a large group of swimmers while returning to shore in the bay of Santa Cruz. It was a swim clinic from Mexico City, spending a long weekend practicing in the warm waters of Huatulco. A long way to go for a swim, but with the delights of all the bays of Huatulco, it is well worth it.

For comments or contact, email:
box95jackson@gmail.com.

The Search for Self in the Outdoors: A Few Imperative Reads

By Carole Reedy

“And into the forest I go, to lose my mind and find my soul.”
― John Muir

Not every novel that studies human behavior takes place in an overstuffed-chaired drawing room over tea and scones or the dark halls of a long-hallowed university. The pursuit of happiness and thoughts of things past are often found in the wild seas or calm pastures of the natural world.

Here are a handful of books that conjure thoughts of a daring yet sublime existence outside the home, office, or studio.

The Flaneur, by Edmund White (2001)

In the 70+ years during which I’ve turned to the written word for pleasure and knowledge, without a doubt The Flaneur is one of my favorite books.

Flaneuring itself is a favorite pastime for many dreamers and observers of human nature and culture. The term “flaneur” was first coined by the 19th-century French poet Charles Baudelaire (1821-67) in his essay collection “The Painter of Modern Life” (1860). The flaneur is an observer, an explorer of the city and streets and is found in many impressionist paintings.

White takes us for a stroll through the myriad streets of Paris, home of the existentialists, poets like Baudelaire, the revered Colette, the famous Josephine Baker, and numerous museums. We never want the journey to end while walking with Edmund White. The goal? To observe and reflect.

There are details that can be discovered only while randomly and aimlessly walking the streets of a city. White describes this wandering as “that aimless Parisian compromise between laziness and activity.”

This is the Edmund White we have come to expect, who with each book gifts us pages of beautiful and descriptive prose, taking us beyond our self and into other worlds.

White has stated that the only thing Parisians will not tolerate is publishing a mediocre novel. I doubt he will ever prove to be guilty of that.

The Wager: A Tale of Shipwreck, Murder, and Mutiny, by David Grann (2023)

The success of this newly published story may rest partly on the popularity of the blockbuster movie Killers of the Flower Moon (2023), based Grann’s 2017 book that bears the subtitle The Osage Murders and the Birth of the FBI. Both The Wager and Killers of the Flower Moon depict actual tragic events that Grann has brought to our awareness.

The Wager is an adventure story that takes place on the high seas from Britain and Brazil to Chile during the 18th century. Human behavior at its worst and best is explored in this remarkable tale of the pursuit of a Spanish galleon filled with treasure … as well as the resulting shipwrecks. Heroes or thieves and murderers? It all ended in a court martial and trial that rivals a modern-day thriller.

The Shetland Series, by Anne Cleeves (2006-18)

Rich description of these remote northern Scottish islands is one of the delights of this Cleeves mystery series. Details of a quickly changeable climate color the text, allowing the reader complete immersion in the finely tuned crime story. Most of us feel compelled to get out an atlas to fully grasp the location and makeup of these surprisingly complex islands and their place in the historical and social context of the British Isles. Rumor has it that Shetland has had a desire to become a part of Norway.

This eight-book series (Anne Cleeves is also the prolific writer of several other series in various locations) stars a detective of Spanish descent, Jimmy Perez, along with a range of other characters who hail from the various Shetland Islands. Along the way we learn about fishing and knitting as well as the language and cultural differences of these communities.

I challenge you to guess any ending, which in each case provides the cherry on top of the author’s astute, carefully written, detailed style.

Dr. Ruth Galloway Series, by Elly Griffiths (2009-23)

The fifteen books that make up the Ruth Galloway mystery series become favorites of any reader who starts the first book, The Crossing Places. If you are anything like my friends, you will eagerly anticipate each of the following books in the series.

Ruth, an archeologist in Norwich, England, is beaconed by the local police whenever any human bones are discovered. If they appear to be recent deaths, the police take over, although somehow Ruth always finds herself entwined in the search for a solution to a perceived crime. If the bones are ancient, they become the impetus to investigate and open doors for Ruth and her archeological students, leading to discovering new theories about civilization.

The recurring characters in the book (Ruth, Nelson, Cathbad, Judy) will quickly become part of your friendship circle. The shifting environmental moods of the marsh where Ruth lives, along with the various surrounding English regions, establish a foreboding ambience for each of the novels, a perfect background for the eerie situations that confront Ruth (and her friends).

Open: An Autobiography, by Andre Agassi with J.H. Moehringer (2009)

Most autobiographies of famous sports figures stand out as nothing more than facts and statistics about the sport with some color added regarding contributing characters.

This history, written by the controversial tennis star Andre Agassi (with ghostwriter J.H. Moehringer), breaks that mold.

Agassi opens his heart and soul to the reader as if he were sitting in a psychiatrist’s office. The pressure from his father an early age to play tennis permeates every decade of his life. Without revealing too much, I leave it to the reader to follow this emotional journey.

Tom Lake: A Novel, by Anne Patchett (2023)

Patchett has drawn on a vast repertoire for the subjects, locations, and characters of her previous novels. My favorite is one of her first, Bel Canto: A Novel (2001), which transplants the reader to a country in South America where an opera singer finds herself in a hostage situation at a birthday party for a Japanese businessman.

Since then, Patchett has explored a variety of scenarios. In this, her latest, a cherry orchard in northern Michigan provides the setting for a family saga that takes place during the COVID pandemic. A family of parents and their three grown daughters find themselves saving the family business by coming together to harvest the cherries. Over the course of months, they learn more about one another, especially about the mother’s life before her marriage to their father.

This is a sweet book, suspenseful enough to keep the reader’s curiosity piqued throughout. Unsurprisingly, you may not be able to stop thinking of Anton Chekhov’s classic 1903 drama, The Cherry Orchard.

Happy April reading!

Nevado de Toluca

By Diana Rodríguez Aquino

Nevado de Toluca, also known as Xinantécatl, is a dormant stratovolcano located in the state of Mexico, Mexico. It is one of the highest peaks in Mexico, standing at approximately 4,680 meters (15,354 feet) above sea level. The volcano is part of the Trans-Mexican Volcanic Belt and is located about 80 kilometers (50 miles) west of Mexico City.

I signed up with a tour to explore the Nevado with a day climb. The day before I prepared all my clothes (first thermal layer, second polar layer and third waterproof layer), boots, accessories (gloves, hat, UV glasses, buff) and backpack (food, toilet paper, water, cash, change of clothes, sunscreen). I was excited and I went to sleep early to be well rested.

I got up at 5am, got all my gear and left for the meeting point with the excursion team. The guides took a roll call of the entire group, and we left for Toluca. Along the way I rested a little, since what lay ahead were eight intense hours of constant effort. As we advanced, I felt the drop in temperature. Before reaching the park entrance we made a stop to eat something light and use the bathroom.

We continued with the trip and in a matter of minutes you can see how the environment changes, the temperature drops even more, and we entered a forest, the closer you get to the base camp nature changes again, everything becomes more arid as you approach the base of the mountains. We arrived at the camp, and they gave us picks and a helmet.

The beginning of the climb was very hard, it is the first push to adapt to the climate and altitude. I was barely warming up, but as we progressed, I began to adapt. The first stop was twenty minutes in and the guides advised us to eat something light and drink water. Afterwards, we proceeded to go down towards the lagoon.

In the Nevado there are two crater lakes, the Moon Lagoon and the Sun Lagoon. We went down the Moon Lagoon to surround it and began our ascent. We took one last rest before beginning the real challenge, reaching the summit. It is around three hours of ascent. Arriving at around 3800 meters above sea level we take a break and eat something sweet, which is crucial for having energy.

The last hour of ascent is the most difficult, it is a very steep slope and later you have to climb, this is where you must be very careful, since with any false step you can fall into the overhang. At this moment the temperature dropped a lot, and I began begin to feel less air, it was difficult to breathe and of course the physical effort was greater, because you are climbing between stones.

Finally, after climbing for about an hour we reached the top. The best feeling of the day was knowing I’d made it. From this point I could clearly see Laguna del Sol, an indescribable view. This was the perfect moment to recognize all the effort we’d made, we were 4500 meters above sea level.

Subsequently, we descended into a small valley to eat a well-deserved meal, rest, and prepare for the descent. For some people this is the most fun part and for others the worst part. Going downhill is like skiing on land, some people go very fast, while others go downhill and fall. If you have a good rhythm and are not afraid of falling you can make the descent in no time. My biggest tip is, let go, don’t be afraid of falling, it can happen eventually, enjoy it and when you least expect it you will be arriving at Laguna del Sol.

Here we rested a little more and waited for the group to come together again to leave. From this point you can see how high you were and the entire journey you took to get to the top. The last hour of the excursion is dedicated to returning to the base camp and saying goodbye to Nevado. Finally, between laughter and talks, we arrived exhausted but very happy. It was 3pm, we returned just in time for lunch. In a typical Mexican dining room, they served us quesadillas, sopes and coffee. Now yes, you can eat as much as you want and get ready to head back to Mexico City. This was an amazing experience and I highly recommend it.

Despite its status as a dormant volcano, Nevado de Toluca still poses some geological hazards, and visitors are advised to take precautions when exploring the area. Additionally, the volcano and its surrounding ecosystems are protected within the Nevado de Toluca National Park, which aims to preserve the natural beauty and biodiversity of the region.There are several tour companies that offer day trips like this.

Outdoor Pursuits over Eighty

By Marcia Chaiken and Jan Chaiken

We visited Mexico off and on beginning in 1980, and we’ve spent several months in Huatulco most years since 2001. Needless to say, we were considerably younger then. Our outdoor pursuits on the Oaxacan Coast required stamina and strength – hours of continuous snorkeling, hikes up and down steep trails, and long drives in our 4-wheel-drive SUV along bumpy roads that turned into river beds and ended at deserted beaches. We enjoyed every minute of such activities. But when we reached age 80, some vigorous activities began to result in more pain than pleasure. You’ll be glad to hear that we adapted and now find that many of the activities we’ve always enjoyed can be carried out from a comfortable seat on a patio overlooking a garden and the ocean.

Exploring botanical life

The coastal plant life, especially the cacti and agaves, always interested us. But now we can sit still long enough to observe the differences in the varieties and the fascinating ways they react to seasonal and daily changes. The cacti near our condo’s patio range from low-growing barrel shapes – with different arrangements of spines covering their green flesh – to amazingly tall trees with thick needle-covered mazes of branches reaching 20 or more feet (over 6 meters) into the sky. During the highest winds, the barrels hunker down and seem absolutely impervious, while the tall cacti stand firmly in place but gently sway – each branch in its own rhythm.

The rosette-shape agaves with their multiple spear-shaped leaves range in our garden-view from about 2-feet (60 centimeters) in height to over 5-feet. Their colors are primarily green but some are the palest green on the palette while other are the darkest green hue – and others are every green shade in between. When the winds sweep off the ocean, the agaves shimmy. Yes, not shake but actually shimmy. In a kind of optical illusion, by staring at one of the agaves you can “see” the leaves on the right continuously rotating to the right and down like a wheel, with the leaves on the left a mirror image — a movement which is not possible but is mesmerizing.

The agaves randomly produce buds and flowers. Some of the agave flowers appear startlingly overnight. Long stems emerge from the rosette and then are topped by bright yellow flowers. The flowering is very rare and usually signals the end of the plant’s life cycle. We also can observe low-growing succulents (Stapelia Gigantea) that usually are not worthy of mention. But after a recent unexpected overnight deluge, they produced an amazing huge starfish-shaped cream-colored flower, so large as compared to the usual size of the plant that the overall impression was of a miracle.

The cacti in our closely observed garden produce fruit at a specific season on a particular day. When that day occurs, the call goes out from all the local birds — and suddenly the cacti are covered with feathered fellows that are every color of the rainbow. Which brings us to our next pursuit.

Bird watching

We have our own unscientific names for groups of birds that keep us continuously entertained: strutters, flitters, and high-fliers. Two types of strutters parade across the garden in the early morning, the small brownish-grayish doves coo as they strut like chickens, occasionally stopping for a tasty bug treat. The large ungainly chachalacas resemble turkeys (and some local residents prepare them to eat as one would a turkey) as they march in front of us calling their friends with an excessively loud squawking chatter.

The high-fliers include three varieties of vulture – one uglier than the other– that appear in circles above a land area where some animal has died. We should be grateful that they clear the land of carrion – but actually we’re happy to see a decrease in their numbers in our visible skies, as the surrounding jungle is gradually being cleared and humans are replacing reptiles and rodents. Fortunately, sufficient trees remain for the pairs of nesting osprey that fly gracefully high above all day, emitting tiny little chirps unsuitable for such large birds. The pelicans, which can be seen fishing in the ocean by themselves or in small groups, flock together around sunset and present incredible geometric patterns as they circle the bay on the way to their nighttime arboreal campgrounds. And shortly after sunset when the sky becomes pink, peach, or rose, the swallows amass, flying by at first in a vanguard of ten or twelve and later in scores filling the sky.

The flitters include an incredible spectrum of song birds and strident screamers, ranging from the tiny nondescript cactus wrens that nestle down between agave leaves to the beautiful deep-marked blue, black and white screaming magpie jays. Each day brings different species – woodpeckers, flycatchers, orioles, buntings, hummingbirds. There are over 100 species of birds in our area. Many birders visit Huatulco, arise early in the morning, drive to parks armed with binoculars and bird books, and follow guides up trails or through jungle areas to complete their checklists. That’s fine for the under-80 crowd. But we pursue a similar passion with a cup of coffee or a glass of wine in hand on an ocean-view patio. Moreover, rather than merely checking a name off a list, we can observe details of the fascinating commensal relationship between birds and plants, such as golden-cheek woodpeckers who clean insects that are visibly attacking cacti.

Bonding with other animal life

While one of us has always avoided boats except to admire them, the other has long pursued whale-watching, all the way from the northern reaches of the Atlantic to both hemispheres of the Pacific. However, one of the greatest dangers for those over 80 is the possibility of falling, and small whale-watching boats are not particularly stable. Now we have found there is no reason to give up the joy of watching these incredible fellow mammals. We are always scanning the ocean surface for a sudden telltale spray of water. And a few times a week this scanning leads to the delight of watching the antics of one or more whales. Sometimes a solitary whale will swim in circles with one fin extended looking like he or she is waving a beckoning hello. Baby whales playing are adorable as they dive and bob up around each other, obviously paying no attention to the nearby adults guarding them. And one can never tire of watching a whale breaching or fluking – until numerous boats show up.

We can frequently watch whales for twenty minutes or more but invariably the human call goes out – “whale there,” and small boats gather from all directions surrounding the playful giants. It’s amazing that these gentle behemoths don’t simply knock the human pests out of their protective shells. But instead, they usually watch the boats for a few minutes, dive deep, and disappear from view.

Iguanas are another source of outdoor entertainment. Watching a heavy fellow climb a tree on branches more slender than his tail, then reach out to chomp on tender leaves, while the branches bend and sway under the pressure from his meaty body is remarkable. They never seem to fall since they use their tails to cling and balance. And although a friend claims iguanas have no maternal instinct because their babies hatch from eggs, we’ve watched a baby iguana feeding off low growing plants while a female circles protectively around the baby until it was time to leave and she nudged it in the right direction.

Human aquatic behavior is also interesting. Name the type of water vehicle humans use to stay afloat on the ocean and you can probably witness it from Huatulco. A few times a month, usually around dawn, large aquatic cities (aka cruise ships) make their way to dock in Santa Cruz. They seem to spawn smaller human water toys, since a few hours later the water in the surrounding bays often is disturbed by water jet skis and wave runners. Usually, shortly before sunset, the deep blast of the cruise boat’s horn warns passengers to be back on board and later we are alerted by another horn to watch the ship being tugged slowly back out to sea, where from our patio we can see it slowly make its way through the channel and off to its next port.

Even when the cruise ship dock is vacant, the two nearby marinas launch fishing boats, “booze” boats for tourists, bay tour and snorkeling boats, graceful sail boats, catamarans, luxurious yachts, and a plethora of outboard pangas. On the sea horizon, full oil tankers make their way from the refineries in Salina Cruz to cities upcoast and back again with empty containers. Marines stationed at the nearby Mexico Naval base train in military boats of a spectrum of sizes and purposes. For a basically terrestrial species without gills or tails, we humans collectively spend much of our time on the water. That pattern is interrupted only when the winds blow hard, the waves turn white capped, the ocean color deepens to an ominous dark hue and the local marinas close.

Tuning into the rhythms of the world

As we age, we become acutely aware of natural cycles. There’s no place better for observing these cycles for the over-80 folks than the Oaxacan coast. From our outdoor patio theater we can watch the ebb and flow of the waves, especially remarkable at full moon and new moon when the waves smashing on the rocks below and islets at a distance reach the limits of their height. Storms at sea are literally awesome with high winds that toss about flora and fauna – including us.

We marvel at each miraculous sunrise and sunset – no two are the same. At night, as the sky turns from deep red or pink or peach to star-studded black, the distant lighthouse, El Faro, begins signaling “dangerous shoals” to passing ships, inspiring another outdoor pursuit – creating Haiku.

Quantified darkness
Light beams swirl from El Faro
Illuminate all

Neighbors have suggested many other outdoor pursuits suitable for adults of all ages: star-gazing, wine-tasting, cocktail mixing, reading in the shade of an umbrella, barbecuing, and one “off-patio” pursuit that we hope never to give up – aqua exercise. But whatever floats your boat, the basic message is the same: when you are over 80, your mobility and stamina may well change, but your zest for outdoor pursuits can remain the same.