All posts by The Eye Mexico

Beach, Village and Urban Living in Mexico. We are a community-based magazine focusing on culture and life in Mexico.
March 2024

An Eye on 2024 Olympians

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By Marcia Chaiken and Jan Chaiken

The 2024 Summer Olympic Games in Paris, planned for July 28-August 11, will provide an opportunity to watch and cheer for 32 Mexican women at the top of their games. More than a few have been competing for decades and are determined to medal. They will be competing in 16 sports. Two Mexican teams in particular are worth attention – artistic swimming (with eight women) and gymnastics (also eight). Since Mexico has not taken home any medals in these team sports in past Olympics, a win would be especially meaningful and a cause for national celebration.

Swimmers

Although Mexico has never medaled in Olympic artistic swimming (aka synchronized swimming), the recent performance of the current team has raised high hopes. This is the first time since 1996 that the whole team qualified for the Olympics. The team won the gold medal in the Pan American games in Chile in 2023. And team member Itzamary Gonzalez along with her partner won a silver medal in the 2023 World Championship for their beautiful duet.

Other team members to watch in Paris who have previously medalled, albeit not in the Olympics, are 33-year-old Nuria Diosdado, one of the team captains, who has been performing since her early teens, and her award-winning duet partner Joana Betzabe Jiménez García, who is 30 years old.

Gymnasts

The Mexico Rhythmic Gymnastics Team will be appearing for the first time in the Paris Olympics. Members Julia Gutiérrez, Ana Flores, Kimberly Salazar, Adirem Tejeda, and Dalia Alcocer were overjoyed to win the silver medal at the 2023 Pan American games. Rhythmic Gymnastics (aka ribbon dancing) has been part of the Olympics since the Los Angeles games in 1984. The competition will be fierce, especially from the members of the teams from Eastern Europe – Russian gymnasts have garnered more medals in the sport than those of any other country. A medal for Mexico would not only be a first but miraculous. In the last Olympics, Israeli gymnast Linoy Ashram snatched the gold from the Russians – so it would not be impossible for the Mexican team to do the same.

A Sailor

A medal in sailing would also be a first for Mexican women. Sailor Elena Oetling Ramírez, a 31-year-old Olympian from Chapala, Jalisco, will be racing against the odds in the Laser Radial class, single-handedly piloting a light-weight single-masted dinghy – her specialty. She was named the top sailor in Mexico after competing in the 2020 World Cup regatta in Miami, but her showing in the 2020 Olympic games in Tokyo was less than stellar and she wound up in 32nd place. Honing her skills in the following years in the yacht club in Puerto Vallarta, she finished in 6th place in the 2023 Pan American Games. In Paris, she’ll be competing against sailors from Great Britain and Australia who have garnered multiple Olympic medals in this water sport, and against women from China and the Netherlands, both of whom have earned more than one Olympic medal. But stay tuned to watch Ramírez in the Mediterranean waters off Marseille battle to best her own 6th place showing and wind up on the podium.

The rest of the sports in which Mexicanas are competing (archery, athletics [running], cycling, diving, … taekwondo) are events in which Mexico has taken home medals in past Olympics, so expectations are high that the Mexicana Olympians will once again be on the podium.

Archers

The Mexico Women’s Archery Team solidified their place at the Paris games by earning the bronze medal in the World Games in Berlin last August. The team of Aída Román, Alejandra Valencia, and Ángela Ruiz also won the gold medal at the Central American and Caribbean Games in San Salvador in 2023. Based on the number of medals won in past Olympics, Mexico ranks 20th in archery. The “three As” team faces heavy competition, but with the formerly unbeatable South Korean team showing recent signs of weakness, a door may be opening to the podium for these Mexicana archers.

They also have a chance of medaling in the individual competitions. Valencia, age 29, who has already won an Olympic bronze, is likely to be on the podium again. Born in Hermosillo, Sonora, Alejandra was an all-around athlete beginning at an early age. She began learning archery at age 9 and has won numerous medals in competitions all over the world, including three golds at the Pan American games and a silver in the 2023 Berlin games (at which her team took the bronze). She also holds a degree in graphic design from the University of Sonora.

Aida and Angela also should not be underestimated. At age 35, this will be Aida’s 5th appearance at the Summer Games, with one silver medal achieved in London in 2012. Born in Mexico City and married with four children, she brings experience and stability to the team and hopefully greater concentration to her game than in some of her past Olympic competitions. At age 17, Angela is just emerging as an archer to be taken seriously. She too started recurve (a form of bow) archery at age 9, in her case in Saltillo. Her first international competitions were not stellar, but she seems to be improving in every match and may reach the top of her game in Paris.

Athletes – Running

The runner Citlali Cristian Moscote was first Mexican athlete to qualify for the 2024 Olympics. Over a year ago, in February 2023, Moscote completed her qualifying run in the Seville (Spain) Marathon, placing fourth in a time only two previous Mexicanas have bested. At age 28, Moscote has been on track to run in the 2024 Olympics for years, placing 6th in the 2019 Summer FISU (International University
Sports Federation) World University Games half-marathon in Naples, Italy; winning the Mexico City half-marathon in 2021; and placing in the top ten in 2022 in the marathon in Eugene, Oregon, in competition with some of the best runners in the world. In the 2023 Pan American Games, Moscote’s marathon pace took home the gold. Moscote was born in San Juan de Lagos, Jalisco, but was primarily educated in Guadalajara. She matriculated at the University of Guadalajara, where she studied marketing and was recognized as a leading runner in competitions for the University.

Divers

We first introduced readers of The Eye to Mexicana divers in an article in the June 2018 issue. We described Paola Espinosa Sánchez from La Paz, South Baja California, and her bronze-medal-winning performance in 2008 in Beijing for the synchronized platform event. This was the first-ever medal for Mexico’s women’s diving team. We also introduced Alejandra Orozco Lorza, now 26 years old, from Guadalajara, Paola’s partner in London in 2012 and their silver-winning duo in the same event. Alejandra will be in Paris after placing 6th in the 2023 World Championships in the individual 10-meter platform event. Her partner, 23-year-old Gabriela Agundez from La Paz, won an individual silver medal in the Tokyo Games and, with Orozco, a bronze in Tokyo for synchronized diving, so it would not be surprising to see both women on the podium in Paris.

We would be remiss to remind our readers that there are women at the top of their games who were not selected to compete in the Olympics due more to the complicated qualification procedures than their lack of expertise. Another award-winning Mexicana diving duo is Paola Pineda, 23, a student at the University of Texas from Guanajuato, and Arantxa Chávez, 32, also from Guanajuato and a Mexican Army athlete. They proudly received the gold medal for their 3-meter springboard synchronized performance at the 2023 Pan American Games as well as individual medals. At the very top of their game, they are sheer perfection to watch – so they will be missed in Paris. And the Mexicana soccer team also won the gold in the 2023 Games in Chile but, given the Eurocentric rules, did not qualify for Paris in 2023. But stand proud for those wonderful women who did make it through the selection process for Paris. Enjoy the Olympic Games and cheer loud enough to be heard anywhere in Mexico.

March 2024

Navigating Progress: A New Highway to the Coast of Oaxaca

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By Randy Jackson

On February 4, 2024, the inauguration of an essential transportation artery for the Oaxaca Coast, including Huatulco, marked a significant milestone in the development of the coast of Oaxaca. La Autopista Barranca Larga-Ventanilla is a toll highway, linking Oaxaca City to the coastal road near Puerto Escondido, approximately 100 kilometers (60 miles) from Huatulco. This highway is expected to reduce travel time from Huatulco to Oaxaca City by approximately four hours and it will integrate the Oaxaca Coast into Mexico’s toll road system.

The construction of this highway over the course of 20 years has faced many challenges. The project was initiated under President Ernesto Zedillo in 1999. However, construction progress experienced numerous interruptions across subsequent presidential terms, spanning administrations from Vicente Fox to Felipe Calderón and Peña Nieto, before its inauguration by the current President Andres Manuel Lopez Obrador (AMLO). on February 4th.

The road isn’t quite finished, but it is in use. One taxi driver I spoke to drove the route the day before inauguration, and the trip to Oaxaca City took 5 hours from Huatulco. The highway is very similar to the road between the airport and Huatulco, two lanes with wide shoulders. It is a toll road but the government has announced it would be toll free for the first year. Some of the final work on the highway includes construction of the toll booths and highway connections to communities along its route.

The Use of Roadblocks

Amid the bevy of news reports announcing the inauguration of this highway were reports of two illegal blockades within 24 hours of the highway opening. One was set up by some members of the municipality of San Jerónimo Coatlán demanding an audit of their former administrator and current municipal president. Another blockade was by the municipality of San Pablo Coatlán, demanding payment for their lands and claiming they would charge a toll themselves.

Anyone familiar with driving on Oaxaca highways is aware of the issue of roadblocks. Highway blockades are an effective tool for municipalities in getting the attention of the state or federal authorities. The setting up of roadblocks within a day of the new highway’s inauguration serves as a troubling sign for users of this highway, although it should be noted that most Oaxacan roadblocks are typically short-term, allowing vehicles to pass through after a few hours. Some however, have been in place for much longer.

Roadblocks had been a major source of construction delays for this highway. Notably, one agrarian dispute between two communities which held up progress for over a year. This community dispute has resulted in up to 28 fatalities since 2008, according to Imparcial News. The expropriation of 13 kilometers of land for the new highway through these communities exacerbated tensions. The deployment of blockades to obstruct construction thrust this conflict into the limelight, capturing the attention of authorities and the wider Mexican public.

The Two Disputing Communities

Situated approximately 95 kilometers south of Oaxaca City, the two communities of Villa Sola de Vega (population 12,350) and San Vicente Coatlán (population 3,512) are both municipalities. In Mexico, municipalities represent the third tier of government, positioned below the Federal and State levels. Villa Sola de Vega spans an area of 680 square kilometers and encompasses 138 villages. San Vicente Coatlán covers an area of 105 square kilometers and includes 8 villages within its jurisdiction.

The communities’ dispute over the ownership of 19,600 hectares of land dates back to 1976. In 2006, The Tribunal Unitario Agrario 21 de Oaxaca (Unitary agrarian court of Oaxaca) ruled in favor of the municipality Villa Sola de Vega. San Vicente Coatlán disputed this, citing a presidential decree in 1754 allocating the land to them. This ruling by the agrarian court resulted in numerous acts of violence between the communities over the years, including the wounding of a state policeman in 2017.

Following AMLO’s election in 2018, he unveiled plans to prioritize the completion of the Barranca Larga-Ventanilla highway as part of his infrastructure agenda. In 2021, he personally visited these two communities, pledging to facilitate dialogue to address the conflict and expedite highway construction. However, by September 2022, the municipality of San Vicente Coatlán announced a blockade of the construction, citing perceived lack of progress toward resolution.

In January 2023, AMLO announced that his administration was in consultation with the two communities, and if a resolution could not be found within one month, an alternate highway route would be used avoiding the lands of these two municipalities altogether.

An agreement was made shortly thereafter and the construction of the highway was completed. The two communities each received 50% of the disputed lands and the Municipality of Villa Sola de Vega was to receive a gas station, a tourist inn, a communal property office, and a water and sewage treatment plant. This settlement demonstrates the effectiveness of blockades, and marks progress for these two communities.

The Road Beyond Inauguration

Although potential roadblocks and more construction delays may haunt this new highway for a time, the significance of this transportation infrastructure looks to be a game changer for Huatulco and the Oaxaca Coast. It promises economic benefits from more efficient transport of goods as well as more tourists, likely many more tourists. The increase in tourism is expected to bring more investments and jobs to Huatulco and the Oaxaca Coast.

New investments and jobs can be stymied, however, without further investments in service infrastructure, potable water and expanded sewage handling in particular. These services are at capacity in Huatulco, and exceeding capacities in Puerto Escondido. For nine years Puerto Escondido has been pumping raw sewage into the ocean, and their potable water system, like that of Huatulco, struggles to meet demand.

With the transition of Huatulco from FONATUR to the State of Oaxaca, any new service infrastructure will be the responsibility of the state. This may prove to be a test for the state government in their commitment to the development of the Oaxaca Coast. But for now at least, the road is open and Huatulqueños anxiously await future announcements of new service infrastructure to navigate further progress.

For contact or comment, email: box95jackson@gmail.com.

March 2024

The Impressive Record of a Huatulco Charity

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By Jamie McIntyre

The local non-profit Bacaanda Foundation was started modestly in 2008 by the Jarnryd family in Huatulco. “Bacaanda” is a Zapotec word meaning “dream” and this charity has turned dreams into reality for thousands of children, families and communities.

With registered charity status in USA, Canada and Mexico (where it is also known as El Sueño Zapoteco), the foundation now has the support of a generous and growing donor community. As a registered charity it can now issue a tax receipt in the currencies of all three countries, which allows donors to offset their cash or in-kind donation.

Bacaanda’s goal is to invest in education as the primary tool to pave the way for a better future for children in rural communities. Since 2013 it has invested more than 2.1 million USD to support delivery of quality education in rural communities across the Santa Maria Huatulco and Pochutla regions of Oaxaca. More than 85% of the funds raised have been invested directly into programs, with the remainder covering the costs of its small office in Tangolunda.

The early focus was its “Adopt a School Program”. With the generosity of its “adopters,” consisting of hundreds of donors and volunteers, and the support of CONAFE (Consejo Nacional de Fomento Educativo, the National Council for Promoting Education), the foundation has completed the new construction or refurbishment of schools and teachers’ quarters in over forty communities. In addition, two teacher training facilities were built in Santa Maria Huatulco and Pochutla, where young teachers receive their initial training and ongoing support.
While there remains a significant need for better schools and infrastructure in these regions, the Foundation recently made a strategic decision to target student achievement as its key measure of success. As a result, it has begun to transition away from a focus on construction and infrastructure projects to one on technology-enabled classroom learning.

With its experience working in isolated rural communities, where attracting and retaining good teachers is very difficult, the Foundation came to understand that technology-based learning is a critical component in achieving better student learning outcomes. Also, since few schools in rural Oaxaca go beyond 8th grade, it was important to find a way to accelerate learning for children enrolled in primary grades. This led to the creation of the Foundation’s “Intelligent Rural Schools Program (IRS).

This program currently includes 643 students in 52 schools – 36 schools connected to the internet and 16 offline schools that use iPads with preloaded interactive educational software. Internet connections are delivered via Elon Musk’s Starlink satellite system.

Accelerating student learning in low-income countries

The question of how to meet the educational needs of children in low-income countries has been studied extensively. Perhaps the most interesting perspectives are those of return on investment (ROI) and cost-benefit analysis, which consider societal benefit as a key metric in deciding how to deliver effective education in these countries. A team of economists and policy analysts looked at “Improving Learning in Low and Lower-Middle Income Countries” (Journal of Benefit-Cost Analysis, 14: 2023).

The authors of the report conclude that it is no longer a significant challenge to get children into primary schools in low-income countries with some countries now reporting virtually 100% enrollment. The problem is that despite increases in spending by as much as 80% to achieve this remarkable enrollment over the past two decades, there has been very little impact on student learning outcomes.

They conclude that the focus going forward must be on student learning and improving the efficiency of the education system and that by deploying just two (of 150 considered), low-cost and focused educational interventions, the system can reap dramatic returns in terms of student achievement as ratio of the costs incurred.

For example, the authors describe how one intervention, described as “teaching students at the right level, with the use of technology” can deliver up to $65.00 USD of social and economic benefit for every $1.00 USD spent.

This approach is at the core of Bacaanda Foundations’ “Intelligent Rural Schools” program. To confirm its efficacy, and with the support of Conafe, the Foundation is now able to compare grade-specific student learning outcomes in the IRS group to those of students who do not have access to the same technologies. Early results of these tests show significantly enhanced learning outcomes for the IRS students.

Cerro Clanes Magdalena – Bacaanda’s newest project

This story is playing out right now in the community of Cerro Clanes Magdalena, a very remote community (a 4-hour, very challenging drive from Huatulco) in the Pochutla region, where Zapotec is the predominant language spoken.

This is the largest Bacaanda Foundation project to date. Six classrooms and a teachers’ residence are being refurbished for 74 children and 5 CONAFE teachers assigned to the community. The classrooms will all be internet-connected by Starlink, and have iPad tablets loaded with learning software. The Foundation has already deployed its training staff to the community to train and coach the teachers on how to use the technology; monitoring and coaching the teachers will be an ongoing component of the program. The Foundation will be working with families and a school committee to ensure the project fits the community’s needs.

In late January, a small group of Foundation staff and donors visited Cerro Clanes to inaugurate the project. The group visited one of the newly refurbished classrooms, where 5th- and 6th-grade students were having their very first experience in a smart classroom. Each student had an internet-connected iPad; a Bacaanda technology trainer was leading their first on-line class, in which the lesson was being fed through the trainer’s iPad connected to a smart TV mounted in the front of the classroom. Parents and community members were crowded in the doorway and around the windows, clearly intrigued by what was happening in the classroom.

Bacaanda Foundation – looking forward

The Foundation’s Board of Directors has carefully considered its strategic direction going forward, which is to leverage the use of technology to improve teaching and student learning and to help build positive social dynamics in the communities that it serves. But the challenge remains daunting. Just in the two CONAFE districts of Santa María and Pochutla, where the Foundation has directed its efforts, there are 320 schools, with a total enrollment of 2,680 students.

Within its current resources, The Foundation has committed to focusing on a limited number of schools and communities, starting with roughly 60 schools in 30 communities – with the goal of achieving greater student learning impact in each community before growing beyond these numbers.

Bacaanda’s success going forward will be driven by the generosity and time of its supporters. The Foundation is looking for volunteers to assist its programs and fundraising efforts. In particular, Bacaanda is looking for volunteers with grant-writing experience in the US and Canada.

Contact us if you are interested in helping the Bacaanda Foundation as a donor, volunteer, or other kind of support. http://www.bacaandafoundation.org
Huatulco office (958-581-0536) bacaandafoundation@hotmail.com

Jamie McIntyre
President
Bacaanda Foundation Canada

March 2024

Mexico’s Mesoamerican Cleopatras

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By Deborah Van Hoewyk

When you think of Mexico before the Spanish conquest (1521), what comes to mind? All those ruined pyramids? Confusion about who were the Aztecs, who were the Maya, who were the Incas? Maybe you think of Moctezuma, the Aztec (Mexica, to be more ethnically precise) the conquered ruler of Tenochtitlán, the seat of the Aztec empire in what is now Mexico City. Odds are, though, pre-Hispanic women didn’t leap to mind, much less women who ruled the pre-Hispanic world.

The Aztecs didn’t cohere as a political or geographical entity until fairly recently, starting in the late 1100s CE – Tenochtitlán was founded in 1325. They did, however, create a massive empire, subjugating most of the peoples of central Mexico. The Incan Empire arose just a little later, in the 1200s, in the area around Cuzco, Peru, and came to dominate northwestern South America. The Inca were conquered by Spanish forces led by Francisco Pizarro in 1532.

The Maya, on the other hand, date back to 7000-5000 BCE, and started to coalesce into a great civilization around 300 CE, eventually covering southeastern Mexico, Belize, and Guatemala. The Maya did not amass an empire, either; they were a federation of independent city states – large urban centers focused on religious activities surrounded by rural communities that supplied food and other resources. (Those cit-states did set about trying to conquer each other.)

Pre-Hispanic Women and Power

In 2018, the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City held a special exhibition, “Golden Kingdoms: Luxury and Legacy in the Ancient Americas,” which presented objects from tombs and items of personal adornment. According to curator Joanne Pillsbury, “Had we organized this exhibition twenty-five years ago, we would have spoken primarily of the regalia of men. Over the course of single generation, thrilling discoveries have revealed the power and majesty of high-status women, deepening and enriching our understanding of ancient American history.”

We know that all three of the major pre-Hispanic groups had women in positions of power. Among the Aztecs and the Incas, they ruled as accompaniments to their husbands. The Aztecs required that a ruler have royal blood; a migratory, non-royal-blooded man could marry an Aztec princess to supply the qualifying royal genetics. The Incan king’s primary wife, the quoya (queen), ruled over all women.

The Maya were different. Of course, they had many queens who were the wives of ruling kings, but – even though rare – there were Mayan queens who wielded power on their own. In Mexico, there were a half a dozen or so, including three in Cobá, in Quintana Roo in the Yucatán; two in Palenque, in Chiapas; and one in Toniná, also in Chiapas. In addition, there were three female regents in different Mayan city states in Chiapas – regents ruled until their sons were old enough to ascend the throne, and depending on the age of that son, often served as the de facto ruler for years afterwards.

The Maya were different. Of course, they had many queens who were the wives of ruling kings, but – even though rare – there were Mayan queens who wielded power on their own. In Mexico, there were a half a dozen or so, including three in Cobá, in Quintana Roo in the Yucatán; two in Palenque, in Chiapas; and one in Toniná, also in Chiapas. In addition, there were three female regents in different Mayan city states in Chiapas – regents ruled until their sons were old enough to ascend the throne, and depending on the age of that son, often served as the de facto ruler for years afterwards.

Gender Relations among the Maya

Generations of archeologists, anthropologists, and historians have interpreted Mesoamerican life through the eyes of the Catholic Spanish conquistadors: a Euro-centric gender hierarchy, realized in the male superiority/female domesticity model. It wasn’t easy to even think that the Maya might have had independent queens, while clearly the Aztecs and Incas had only queen consorts, “help-meets” to the male kings, matching the Spanish model.

During the Classic Mesoamerican period (300-950 CE), particularly between 500-700, the Maya were started expanding their reach, usually through warfare. Alliances to control warring parties could be achieved through marriage, giving the bride who concluded the alliance power over the court. Times of war are times of social change, and women began to play more significant roles in upper-class life in general, participating in religious rituals and connecting with the supernatural.

A more fundamental force supporting women’s power was that “the Classic Maya concept of gender was based on a complementary, or balanced, relationship of masculine and feminine.” According to anthropologist Erika Anne Hewitt, now a Unitarian Universalist minister in Maine, and other anthropologists, Mayans thought of gender as “inclusive and reciprocal”; Mayan art seems to assume that the foundation of society is the female-male pair, which brings together different capabilities needed for life. The higher you go in the social scale, gender becomes “exchangeable” – males are shown with female traits and females take on male traits, depending on what their roles required. For kings and queens, this is reflected in the hieroglyphic inscriptions on tombs and monuments. In these inscriptions, identifiable people are mentioned with a string of “appellative phrases” – prescribed sequences of names and titles.

Ordinarily, a woman is identified with the glyph for a female, but for women who ruled independently, no such glyph appears in her appellation. Inscriptions for prominent women who were not independent queens applied the term na bate (warrior) “to accommodate their sharing of status or occupancy of roles that were traditionally masculine.” Moreover, in Mayan art that portrays high-status males conducting rituals, the men wear skirts; portraits of male rulers often included other feminine traits or symbols. It is possible to argue that, without this acceptance of gender fluidity, the Maya, like the Aztecs and Incas, might not have had queens.

The Queens of Cobá

Researchers from INAH (Instituto Nacional de Antropología e Historia, Mexico’s national anthropology institute) have identified a dynasty, beginning c. 500 CE, of 14 rulers of the Mayan city-state Cobá – the dynasty lasted until almost 800 CE. The research was complicated, given the deteriorated state of the stonework throughout Cobá. Most of the information was gleaned from study of stelae, stone slabs that recorded important events and the rulers who oversaw them.

Ix Che’enal was a most probably the daughter of Yax Yopaat, king of Dzibanche, a nearby state to which Cobá was no doubt sent to Cobá to rule as Dzibanche desired. She held the high title of kaloomte, higher than the title of her husband, K’ahk Bahlam, and was queen for a short period; based on study of two stelae, she ruled from 565 to 574. At that point, she may have abdicated to her husband; in any event, he succeeded her.

Lady Yopaat is thought to have ruled c. 600-40 CE; she is called a “warrior queen” because she apparently strengthened Cobás position as a regional power, although whether that eliminated the subordination to Dzibanche is unclear.

Lady K’awiil Ajaw (also known as Ix Kʼawiil Ek) was born in 617 and ruled Cobá from 642-82; also a warrior queen, she attacked and subjugated the nearby city of Yaxuná. She promptly built a “white road” (sacbeob) connecting it with Cobá. The white road curves its way through the jungle, connecting the smaller settlements between Cobá and Yaxuná. She commissioned two stelae (#1, #5) in which she is standing atop and is surrounded by captives, a common configuration for stelae showing rulers. She is shown with 14 captives, more than any queen – and most kings as well. There are 5, perhaps a few more, stelae showing her, and she is shown wearing a belt from which hangs a jade net skirt and jade masks, a garment usually shown only on men.

The Queens of Palenque

Palenque flourished through the Early Classic and Classic periods of pre-Hispanic culture, from about 250-900 CE. It is an astonishing place to visit – tourists have been coming to Palenque since 1841, when John Lloyd Stephens and Frederick Catherwood, author and artist respectively, published Incidents of Travel, which covered Central America, Chiapas, and the Yucatán.

Yohl Ik’nal (also Lady Ol Nal) started her 22-year reign over Palenque in 583 CE, when she was 33. She was the daughter, or perhaps the sister of King Kan Bahlam I, who had died without an heir. Like Prince Philip of England, Yohl Ik’nal’s husband never became a king.

Under her rule, Palenque expanded as she built new complexes of buildings. She repelled invaders bent on subduing Palenque, and her reign was considered peaceful and prosperous.

Yohl Ik’nal had two children, a son and a daughter. When she died, she was succeeded by her son Aj Ne’ Yohl Mat, who was apparently an ineffective ruler, bringing on powerful attacks from Kalakmul – both he and his father were killed in 612, and the main temple of Palenque was destroyed,

Lady Muwaan Mat (aka Lady Sak K’uk’), Yohl Ik’nal’s daughter, became queen in 612, and ruled until her son, K’inich Janaab’ Pakal took the throne in 615, at the age of 12. Muwaan Mat (there is some debate as to whether she is the same person as Lady Sak K’uk’) had to lead Palenque through the chaotic aftermath of the Kalakmul attack, a task made more complicated by the destruction of the temple – religious rituals to ensure Palenque’s survival went on hiatus. Muwaan Mat’s son Pakal, however, ruled until his death in 683; he built the Temple of Inscriptions, ushering in a period of prosperity and progress for Palenque.

The Queen of Toniná

The latest of the Mexican Mayan queens was Lady K’awiil Yopaat, daughter of king K’inich Tuun Chapat, who died in 762; he was succeeded by “Ruler 7,” thought to be Lady K’awill Yopaat, who ruled from 762 until her death in 774. She was another warrior queen, making war on and defeating Palenque in 764.

February 2024

Editor’s Letter

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By Jane Bauer

“The day the power of love overrules the love of power, the world will know peace.”
Mahatma Gandhi

What is love? This is something that humans have been asking for years. We seem torn as to whether to hold it up as the highest of emotions or as a frivolous undertaking.

Is ‘love’ what is depicted by grand gestures and romantic films? Or is it something that builds over time by the routine and comfort of a long marriage? If love is everything, why do we hesitate to accept it as a justifiable reason for turning your life upside down?

What if romantic love isn’t ‘the thing’ we are meant to aspire to, and we have gotten it wrong from too much Jane Austen and John Hughes? Romantic love as we know it only began to appear to be named in the 1500s- prior to that, relationships were mainly transactional for survival and to expand one’s wealth.

I recently started following an IG account about a German farmer who cuddles his chickens, goats, cows and sheep to a soundtrack of new age and classical tunes. It is very soothing- I can feel my nervous system relaxing as the animals nuzzle into him. What if love is what you transmit to each being you come into contact with? If that is the case what does your love look like?

Does it spread out freely in smiles to the person helping you in a store or bringing you coffee or cutting you off in traffic? The best advice I have gotten for getting annoyed with strangers has been to move through the world with the assumption that everyone is doing so with good intention. This has saved me countless grumpy moments.

If you are a regular reader you already know about my concern for the migrants that are crossing our paths. This morning there were about a hundred people of all ages and shades of skin. I rode past in the comfort of my car, on my way to a job I love and the very least I could do was allow love to flow out of me, to offer a water, to make eye contact. We often exchange ‘que dios te bendiga’ which I love, even though I don’t consider myself religious. Lately a few have responded with ‘te lo pago’ with their hands in prayer, this means they will pay it forward and my heart swells with gratitude at the love that can spread from acts of kindness.

Maybe love isn’t that complex. Perhaps it is as simple as seeing another and knowing there are no others.

See you next month,

Jane

February 2024

The Dark Side of Digital Dating

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By Kary Vannice

“Modern love” – can you even engage in it without a username and password? Hardly. In today’s world, love, the finding of romance, and even love’s tragic end are all largely taking place via digital devices, text messages, and even emojis.

Swiping and Mental Health

Platforms like Tinder, Bumble, and Match are fundamentally changing the way people meet, connect, and fall in love. Current tallies estimate that over 360 million people use online dating apps. While these apps provide opportunities to connect with potential partners, reducing relationships to “swipes” and expressing affection through emojis is taking its toll on our mental health.

According to the International Journal of Environmental Research and Public Health, there is a direct link between using dating apps and experiencing loneliness, dissatisfaction with life, and a feeling of exclusion from the world.

The simplicity of swiping right desensitizes us to genuine connection and leads to a perception that relationships can be easily attained, but easily discarded as well.

Psychotherapist Denise Dunne pointed to the problems in her interview with TRMW Magazine, an online, multi-platform culture site. She said, “These apps are designed around appearances, non-emotional online communication, and they are mostly about ubiquity and endless promise.”

Statistics show that digital dating contributes to increased anxiety, self-esteem issues, and a heightened fear of rejection. Online daters now have have to contend with catfishing (being played by a fake online profile), harrassment, and the commodification of relationships.

The ease of creating curated profiles and posting filtered or fake photos leads to questions about authenticity and trust. There’s even a new AI software called LoveGPT that, while designed to help shy and unpracticed online daters “enhance” their romantic communication, is now being used by scammers to create false online profiles and produce instantaneous flirtatious and enticing responses to naïve potential victims.

Relationships: Authentic vs. Disposable

Love and romance have always been the two best proving grounds for emotional acuity and resilience. But it takes trust to be vulnerable and authentic, which requires deeper emotional connection than some digital media offer. Reducing the initial stages of a relationship to a swipe right reduces relationship expectations. Many online daters become accustomed to quick digital interactions and can find transitioning to deeper, in-person connections challenging.

The casual and disposable way most dating apps approach matchmaking often presents potential partners as a simple set of statistics to be tallied rather than a whole human being with hopes, desires and emotional needs. It reduces people to 2D images, lists of likes and dislikes, and anyone within a 40-mile radius rather than as complex emotional beings seeking love and connection.

Online dating allows, and almost invites, daters to treat connection and romance like online shopping, browsing through “merchandise,” and selecting commodities to try out at home. Interactions become transactional rather than meaningful, often leading to a lingering sense of emptiness and deep sense of hopelessness. As an article on Medium, an online site that presents human stories and ideas, put it, “Dating apps are educating a whole generation to relate to love like an Uber.”

Indeed, young people are most at risk of suffering from mental health issues around online dating, and it’s also becoming apparent that this approach to finding love is weakening their emotional resilience and ability to create lasting relationships.

Studies also show that the emphasis on quick judgments and lack of face-to-face interactions hinders the development of empathy. Without empathy, it becomes challenging to develop meaningful emotional connections that are vital to intimacy and healthy relationships.

And, with so many casual encounters so readily available, it’s easy to prioritize short-term gratification over the effort and investment required for longer-term commitment. This shift in mindset not only hinders personal growth and emotional fulfillment but also undermines the stability and strength of lasting partnerships.

Despite this dark side of digital dating, Statistica, the online data analysis and forecasting platform, states, “Online dating has grown in popularity in recent years, and this trend is projected to continue. By 2027, it is estimated that there will be 440 million people seeking love through online platforms.”

Given that this trend shows no signs of slowing down, and app developers are unlikely to address these issues, ultimately, it’s up to users to change their approach to dating by prioritizing meaningful connections, viewing potential partners as real human beings rather than commodities, and fostering lasting love rather than fleeting encounters.

February 2024

How Puerto Escondido Is Redefining Design Trends: The Evolution of Real Estate

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By Brent May

In recent years, Puerto Escondido has emerged as a rising design destination, captivating investors, architects, art patrons, visitors and design enthusiasts. Nestled on the Oaxaca Coast between the Sierra Madre del Sur mountains and the Pacific Ocean, Puerto Escondido is undergoing a remarkable transformation, showcasing innovative and forward-thinking designs that are redefining the local real estate market and beyond. From sustainable building practices to the integration of natural elements, Puerto Escondido is setting a new standard for architectural excellence. In this article, we will explore the evolution of real estate in Puerto Escondido and how it is influencing design trends.

A Fusion of Tradition and Modernity

One of the defining characteristics of recent real estate projects in Puerto Escondido is the seamless fusion of traditional Mexican architecture, contemporary design elements and local materials. Architects and developers are embracing the rich cultural heritage of Oaxaca and integrating it into their projects. Traditional techniques and materials, such as palapa roofs, handcrafted clay bricks, colorful tiles, and artisanal finishes, are combined with modern design aesthetics to create visually stunning yet low impact and minimalist buildings. This blend has nuanced the overall sense of place and authenticity in the real estate developments of Puerto Escondido.

Sustainable Building Practices

Puerto Escondido is at the forefront of sustainable building practices, with a strong emphasis on environmentally friendly design and construction techniques. Architects and developers are incorporating energy-efficient features, utilizing renewable materials, and implementing innovative water management systems. Buildings are designed to maximize natural ventilation and lighting, reducing the reliance on high energy cooling and lighting systems. Furthermore, sustainable landscaping practices are used, promoting native plant species and water-conserving techniques like gray water recycling and recuperation. These sustainable initiatives not only reduce the environmental impact of the real estate developments but also create healthier and more livable spaces for residents and visitors.

Integration of Natural Elements

The natural surroundings of Puerto Escondido serve as a constant source of inspiration for architects and designers. Real estate developments in the area integrate with the coastal landscapes, tropical vegetation, pristine beaches, and stunning ocean views. Open floor plans, expansive windows, and strategically placed outdoor living areas allow residents to “just be” in the natural beauty of the Oaxaca coast.

Infinity pools, rooftop gardens, and terraces provide uninterrupted views of the Pacific Ocean and create a seamless connection between the built environment and the natural world. The integration of natural elements not only enhances the aesthetic appeal of the properties but also creates a sense of tranquility and well-being.

Embracing Minimalism and Contemporary Design

In response to the demand for clean lines and simplicity, contemporary and minimalist design principles have found their place in Puerto Escondido’s real estate landscape. Architects are creating sleek, uncluttered spaces that prioritize functionality and emphasize the use of natural materials. The same minimalist design principles allow for greater airflow. Neutral color palettes, minimalist furnishings, and expansive views contribute to a sense of spaciousness and calmness. This design approach allows residents to focus on the beauty of the surroundings from the comfort of elegant interior spaces.

Living the Mexican Dream

Puerto Escondido is undergoing an important evolution in real estate design, redefining trends and setting new standards for environmental, social and economic sustainability. Through the fusion of tradition and modernity, minimalist and contemporary design, sustainable building practices and the integration of natural elements, this rising design destination is captivating investors, residents and visitors.

February 2024

Marry Me in Mexico

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By Brooke O’Connor

Mexico has an old-world romanticism emanating from every corner. It calls to people’s hearts for destination weddings—particularly people with Hispanic backgrounds or tourists who hold fond memories of sun-laden holidays on azure waters. Yet, like most things in the modern world, the wedding industry has become more industry and less authentic.

What are traditional weddings like, and how would you know your wedding will be authentically Mexican? First, if your wedding is in Mexico, it is a Mexican wedding. The next thing to ask yourself is how traditional you want to go. Prehispanic? Modern traditional? Gringo modern? Let’s examine what those mean.

Prehispanic Weddings

You will never get an “authentic” prehispanic ceremony. When the Spanish invaded, most of the books were burned, and the native population was forced to forgo public ceremonies. What is left of the old ways has been passed down through oral traditions and human memory. If you ever played the telephone game where one person whispers something in the next person’s ear, and then that person whispers into the next person’s ear, you know by the time it gets to the last person, it’s never the same thing. Imagine that, with the whispering lasting hundreds of years. Moreover, there were any number of prehispanic civilizations; a prehispanic ceremony in Oaxaca will most probably draw on Zapotec traditions, while a wedding in Mexico City will incorporate elements from the Mexica, and in the Yucatán and Chiapas it will draw on Mayan customs.

Regardless of origin, what we have left of the prehispanic ceremony is beautiful. In general, it begins by welcoming the four directions, the four elements, the spiritual guardians of the place, and the energy of the sky (or sun) and the earth. Various offerings may be placed on a table, a mat, or an altar. Then permission is requested for the betrothed to be allowed to join their energy in that place.

Zapotec tradition has the groom blindfolded to represent how the two really don’t see each other until they become one. The bride and groom sit with their backs to each other, illustrating how they come from different places and don’t know each other. The elder who officiates walks them through the counsel of how two become one in spirit, the couple faces each other, and the groom is unblindfolded. The couple can say a few words to each other, and then they are tied by the hands with a rope or a cloth, symbolizing their binding as one.

Mayan traditional weddings will be held in the Mayan language. If you want an interpreter, you can have as many as you like, with as many languages as you like. They have similar practices to the Zapotec, emphasizing connecting with the earth and everything around you.

Modern Traditional

This is where Catholicism meets culture. Much like godparents, “sponsors” called padrinos and madrinas help pay for and organize the wedding. These are usually family friends who have known the couple for many years and give advice. There can be multiple sets of padrinos and madrinas, which helps with the financial burden of a festivity that usually lasts two days. The wedding only takes about an hour, and the rest is for the party.

Instead of the ancient tradition of being tied by the hands, many couples will have a lasso tied around their shoulders in a figure eight, representing their union. The lasso will have a crucifix in the middle, and a blessing is spoken over the couple.

After a blessing and the exchange of rings, the groom will present the bride with las arras matrimoniales, which is a collection of 13 coins. This represents his ability to provide for the family and his commitment to the relationship. Then the padrinos will present the couple with a white Bible and rosary, which the officiant will bless.

The more traditional Catholic weddings include a bouquet of flowers for the Virgin Mother Mary and another for Jesus.

In some areas of Mexico, there will be a wedding parade after the ceremony. People take to the streets to cheer on the couple and sing with a mariachi band. It’s typical to start drinking at this point – and then on to the reception!

Gringo Modern

You could get married on the beach, barefoot under an arch of seaweed, or incorporate any of the traditions above. After all, it is your wedding. However, there are some things to think about.

Your passport, immigration status, and marriage permit must be in order. Here is a link to everything you need:

https://embamex.sre.gob.mx/hungria/index.php/en/consular-services/marriage-in-mexico

In addition to the national requirements, there may be local requirements for the area in which you want to be married. Make sure to complete all paperwork and never gloss over steps, as Mexican bureaucracy can be very complicated and frustrating if not followed precisely.

Also, consider your guests. Will they want to trek into the jungle of mosquitoes to live out your dream of an ancient wedding rite? Or would Grandma feel better in a luxury hotel with a waiter bringing her margaritas?

As more people look to return to their roots, and DNA tests from companies like 23andMe are helping people identify their ancestral origin, it’s tempting to want to return to the “old ways.” Rest assured plenty of people are willing to let you pay for that privilege, so make sure you know what you’re asking for and understand all parts of the ceremony you’ll participate in.

Not Every Wedding Ceremony Is for You

Did you know someone has to marry an alligator in Oaxacan Chontal and Huave indigenous communities? Since pre-Hispanic times, there have been weddings between humans and alligators. The marriage between human and beast is a plea for rain, good crops, and enough fish.

As a nod to Catholicism, the female alligator is dressed in pretty white lace, like a virginal bride, and represents Mother Earth in the ceremony. She is wed to a male leader in the community – most recently Victor Hugo Sosa, mayor of San Pedro Huamelula, a bit west of Salina Cruz – and is then carried around town to be adored by all. Yes, the groom is expected to kiss the bride, and the community cheers wildly when that happens. (Photos show that her jaws are tied shut, and the last one was actually a caiman, not quite as fierce as an alligator.)

Though you probably won’t be roped into marrying an alligator, read the fine print of any venue you choose.

Any package wedding destinations will have exclusions and add-ons. Make sure everything is in writing before handing over any money, and be clear on the refund policy for bad weather, pandemics, or other issues.

Divorce

With all the hoops you’ll have to jump through to be married in Mexico, you’ll have plenty of time to make sure you’re making the right life choice. However, things happen.

If the mezcal has worn off after the sunburn fades, and you realize you would rather have married the alligator, take heart. US and Canadian residents can get divorced in their home country even if they were married in Mexico.

Then, you can return to the beautiful beach and live out your favorite Jimmy Buffet song in peace.