Tag Archives: Environment

Going Out and Under

By Kary Vannice

Some of Mexico’s most fantastical and fascinating outdoor pursuits aren’t actually outdoors but underground. With over 7,000 recorded cave systems scattered across the country, Mexico boasts some of the most extensive and awe-inspiring underground networks in the world. Beneath its amazing surface lies an even more mesmerizing world waiting to be discovered – a labyrinth of caves, caverns, and underground rivers that weave throughout Mexico, telling the earth’s ancient origin story.

Mexico is, of course, well known for its diverse landscape, from lush green jungles to towering blue mountains, but it’s her vast subterranean realm that can truly captivate the adventurous spirit. Each cave system tells a story of geological evolution, carved out over millions of years by relentless forces of nature.

One of Mexico’s most iconic cave systems is the cenotes of the Yucatán Peninsula. Cenotes are ancient sinkholes formed by the collapse of limestone bedrock to reveal a hidden world of crystal-clear waters and intricate caverns. Exploring the cenotes offers a unique opportunity to swim, snorkel, or dive amidst massive stalactites and stalagmites as shafts of sunlight pour down from surface openings, lighting up the subterranean landscape. If you’re visiting the Yucatán, you can find many guided tours that will safely allow you to experience these hidden wonders.

Venturing further into Mexico’s underground realm, you can explore the sprawling cave systems of the Sierra Madre Oriental on the eastern side of the country. Here, limestone cliffs give way to a network of caverns adorned with stunning formations, including delicate helictites, which, unlike stalactites and stalagmites, look like they were formed in zero gravity. They can extend horizontally or even diagonally across the cave’s surface often ending up looking like sea coral growing out of the depths. Also, in this area, you will find the Cave of Swallows, one of the largest vertical cave shafts in the world. It plunges over 1,200 feet straight down for anyone seeking an adrenaline rush by rappelling a quarter of a mile down into the black abyss.

If you’re looking for a more immersive experience, the Rio Secreto in the Riviera Maya provides a journey through an underground river system that flows beneath the pristine jungle above. Kayaking or floating through the subterranean waterways reveals a hidden world of ancient rock formations and subaqueous chambers where the echoes of dripping water create a symphony of sound that reverberates through the caverns.

But perhaps one of Mexico’s most extraordinary underground landscapes lies deep beneath the surface of Naica, Chihuahua – the Cave of the Crystals. Located 300 meters within the Naica Mine, this otherworldly cavern is renowned for its gigantic gypsum crystals. Some of the crystals inside the cave are as tall as a 4-story building and weigh over 50 tons. Humans in this environment look like tiny ants surrounded by perfectly formed, crystal clear prisms and luminescent shafts of light. The cave’s extreme conditions, with temperatures reaching up to 58°C (136°F), along with humidity levels nearing 100%, created the perfect environment for forming these monumental crystals over thousands of years.

So breathtakingly beautiful, this true marvel of the underground world was featured on the Discovery and History Channels and the Outdoor Life Network in Canada. These programs offered a rare glimpse into this surreal underworld that seems more like a scene from science fiction than reality. Unfortunately, unlike many other underground wonders in Mexico, your only opportunity to experience this mystical landscape is on TV. Discovered initially as part of a mining exploration that required pumps to keep the underground water from filling the chamber, the caves were allowed to re-flood when mining operations ceased in October of 2015. Nevertheless, the mere existence of this extraordinary ecosystem serves as a testament to the incredible geological diversity and untold mysteries that lie beneath Mexico’s surface.

Mexico’s expansive cave systems offer a gateway to a realm where time stands still, and the earth reveals its hidden treasures. Each unique cave system tells a story of geological wonder and cultural significance. You just have to be adventurous enough to look below the surface.

Navigating Progress: A New Highway to the Coast of Oaxaca

By Randy Jackson

On February 4, 2024, the inauguration of an essential transportation artery for the Oaxaca Coast, including Huatulco, marked a significant milestone in the development of the coast of Oaxaca. La Autopista Barranca Larga-Ventanilla is a toll highway, linking Oaxaca City to the coastal road near Puerto Escondido, approximately 100 kilometers (60 miles) from Huatulco. This highway is expected to reduce travel time from Huatulco to Oaxaca City by approximately four hours and it will integrate the Oaxaca Coast into Mexico’s toll road system.

The construction of this highway over the course of 20 years has faced many challenges. The project was initiated under President Ernesto Zedillo in 1999. However, construction progress experienced numerous interruptions across subsequent presidential terms, spanning administrations from Vicente Fox to Felipe Calderón and Peña Nieto, before its inauguration by the current President Andres Manuel Lopez Obrador (AMLO). on February 4th.

The road isn’t quite finished, but it is in use. One taxi driver I spoke to drove the route the day before inauguration, and the trip to Oaxaca City took 5 hours from Huatulco. The highway is very similar to the road between the airport and Huatulco, two lanes with wide shoulders. It is a toll road but the government has announced it would be toll free for the first year. Some of the final work on the highway includes construction of the toll booths and highway connections to communities along its route.

The Use of Roadblocks

Amid the bevy of news reports announcing the inauguration of this highway were reports of two illegal blockades within 24 hours of the highway opening. One was set up by some members of the municipality of San Jerónimo Coatlán demanding an audit of their former administrator and current municipal president. Another blockade was by the municipality of San Pablo Coatlán, demanding payment for their lands and claiming they would charge a toll themselves.

Anyone familiar with driving on Oaxaca highways is aware of the issue of roadblocks. Highway blockades are an effective tool for municipalities in getting the attention of the state or federal authorities. The setting up of roadblocks within a day of the new highway’s inauguration serves as a troubling sign for users of this highway, although it should be noted that most Oaxacan roadblocks are typically short-term, allowing vehicles to pass through after a few hours. Some however, have been in place for much longer.

Roadblocks had been a major source of construction delays for this highway. Notably, one agrarian dispute between two communities which held up progress for over a year. This community dispute has resulted in up to 28 fatalities since 2008, according to Imparcial News. The expropriation of 13 kilometers of land for the new highway through these communities exacerbated tensions. The deployment of blockades to obstruct construction thrust this conflict into the limelight, capturing the attention of authorities and the wider Mexican public.

The Two Disputing Communities

Situated approximately 95 kilometers south of Oaxaca City, the two communities of Villa Sola de Vega (population 12,350) and San Vicente Coatlán (population 3,512) are both municipalities. In Mexico, municipalities represent the third tier of government, positioned below the Federal and State levels. Villa Sola de Vega spans an area of 680 square kilometers and encompasses 138 villages. San Vicente Coatlán covers an area of 105 square kilometers and includes 8 villages within its jurisdiction.

The communities’ dispute over the ownership of 19,600 hectares of land dates back to 1976. In 2006, The Tribunal Unitario Agrario 21 de Oaxaca (Unitary agrarian court of Oaxaca) ruled in favor of the municipality Villa Sola de Vega. San Vicente Coatlán disputed this, citing a presidential decree in 1754 allocating the land to them. This ruling by the agrarian court resulted in numerous acts of violence between the communities over the years, including the wounding of a state policeman in 2017.

Following AMLO’s election in 2018, he unveiled plans to prioritize the completion of the Barranca Larga-Ventanilla highway as part of his infrastructure agenda. In 2021, he personally visited these two communities, pledging to facilitate dialogue to address the conflict and expedite highway construction. However, by September 2022, the municipality of San Vicente Coatlán announced a blockade of the construction, citing perceived lack of progress toward resolution.

In January 2023, AMLO announced that his administration was in consultation with the two communities, and if a resolution could not be found within one month, an alternate highway route would be used avoiding the lands of these two municipalities altogether.

An agreement was made shortly thereafter and the construction of the highway was completed. The two communities each received 50% of the disputed lands and the Municipality of Villa Sola de Vega was to receive a gas station, a tourist inn, a communal property office, and a water and sewage treatment plant. This settlement demonstrates the effectiveness of blockades, and marks progress for these two communities.

The Road Beyond Inauguration

Although potential roadblocks and more construction delays may haunt this new highway for a time, the significance of this transportation infrastructure looks to be a game changer for Huatulco and the Oaxaca Coast. It promises economic benefits from more efficient transport of goods as well as more tourists, likely many more tourists. The increase in tourism is expected to bring more investments and jobs to Huatulco and the Oaxaca Coast.

New investments and jobs can be stymied, however, without further investments in service infrastructure, potable water and expanded sewage handling in particular. These services are at capacity in Huatulco, and exceeding capacities in Puerto Escondido. For nine years Puerto Escondido has been pumping raw sewage into the ocean, and their potable water system, like that of Huatulco, struggles to meet demand.

With the transition of Huatulco from FONATUR to the State of Oaxaca, any new service infrastructure will be the responsibility of the state. This may prove to be a test for the state government in their commitment to the development of the Oaxaca Coast. But for now at least, the road is open and Huatulqueños anxiously await future announcements of new service infrastructure to navigate further progress.

For contact or comment, email: box95jackson@gmail.com.

Editor’s Letter

By Jane Bauer

“The day the power of love overrules the love of power, the world will know peace.”
Mahatma Gandhi

What is love? This is something that humans have been asking for years. We seem torn as to whether to hold it up as the highest of emotions or as a frivolous undertaking.

Is ‘love’ what is depicted by grand gestures and romantic films? Or is it something that builds over time by the routine and comfort of a long marriage? If love is everything, why do we hesitate to accept it as a justifiable reason for turning your life upside down?

What if romantic love isn’t ‘the thing’ we are meant to aspire to, and we have gotten it wrong from too much Jane Austen and John Hughes? Romantic love as we know it only began to appear to be named in the 1500s- prior to that, relationships were mainly transactional for survival and to expand one’s wealth.

I recently started following an IG account about a German farmer who cuddles his chickens, goats, cows and sheep to a soundtrack of new age and classical tunes. It is very soothing- I can feel my nervous system relaxing as the animals nuzzle into him. What if love is what you transmit to each being you come into contact with? If that is the case what does your love look like?

Does it spread out freely in smiles to the person helping you in a store or bringing you coffee or cutting you off in traffic? The best advice I have gotten for getting annoyed with strangers has been to move through the world with the assumption that everyone is doing so with good intention. This has saved me countless grumpy moments.

If you are a regular reader you already know about my concern for the migrants that are crossing our paths. This morning there were about a hundred people of all ages and shades of skin. I rode past in the comfort of my car, on my way to a job I love and the very least I could do was allow love to flow out of me, to offer a water, to make eye contact. We often exchange ‘que dios te bendiga’ which I love, even though I don’t consider myself religious. Lately a few have responded with ‘te lo pago’ with their hands in prayer, this means they will pay it forward and my heart swells with gratitude at the love that can spread from acts of kindness.

Maybe love isn’t that complex. Perhaps it is as simple as seeing another and knowing there are no others.

See you next month,

Jane

The Uncertain Future of the Huatulco Golf Course

By Randy Jackson

In an earlier article in The Eye, “Bahías de Huatulco: Three Important Developments” (December 2023), I wrote about the proposed conversion of the Tangolunda golf course to a national park. Although the federal government’s announcement to convert this to a national park has not been withdrawn, there has yet to be an official decree to make the golf course into a natural area. The uncertainty looming over the fate of this crucial tourist asset for Huatulco stems from the clash of egos between the Mexican president and the billionaire owner. There have been strong reactions against the conversion to a national park, and uncertainty reigns over the future prospects of the golf course in Huatulco.

Background

The golf course in Tangolunda is known as Las Parotas, named after the majestic parota trees that enhance the beauty of the course. Established in 1991 under the administration of the federal agency FONATUR (Fondo Nacional de Fomento al Turismo), the golf course sustained operations until 2012, despite accumulating a reported loss of $26 million mxn ($1.5 million USD) over the preceding six years.

In an effort to mitigate economic losses and bolster tourism in Huatulco, FONATUR then opted to lease out the golf course. The objective was to attract third-party investments with the aim of elevating the golf course to a professional championship level. Grupo Salinas’s Producciones Especializada SA de CV, chaired by Ricardo Salinas Pliego, head of TV Azteca and Grupo Elektra, secured a ten-year lease for the golf course on August 21, 2012. To acquire the concession, a payment of $500,000 USD was made to FONATUR, coupled with an ongoing fee amounting to 10% of the golf course’s income. Leasing out the Tangolunda golf course marked a pivotal transition in its operations and future prospects.

The Golf Course during the Ten-Year Lease

After extensive redesign under the famous Mexican golf architect, Agustín Pizá, the course reopened in 2014. The improvements to the greens and fairways were impressive. It has been raised to a first-class professional level, and is the only professional golf course in the state of Oaxaca. The course is a public course, made somewhat exclusive by the high cost to play golf there. The economic viability of the golf course is not publicly available. Anecdotally it seems there are few players, yet social media reviews generally give it high praise citing the beauty and challenge of the course and the high quality of service.

During the tenure of the lease there has been some controversy, focused principally on two issues: (1) water use, and (2) lack of tournaments that would help promote Huatulco.

The water use issue was reported in the Mexican press around August of 2022. The controversy centered around the golf course refusing to use greywater from the sewage treatment plants for irrigation. This was something the golf course had done during the years of FONATUR operation. Also, the greywater use was listed as one of the environmental sustainability practices that helps Huatulco qualify for the Earth Check award (Earth Check is a global evaluation group for sustainable tourism; Huatulco has been awarded Earth Check Certification each year since 2005 up to and including 2023).

The golf course water controversy was compounded by the fact that it now uses potable water for irrigation while Huatulco overall is at or near its potable water capacity. However, not reported in any of the news articles on this issue was the fact that the golf course had drilled its own water wells for irrigation and have not been using the potable water supplied by FONATUR, which is the source of the drinking water for Huatulco. Nevertheless, the golf course is using ground water at a rate of 350,000 liters per day. (Note: As I reported in “Huatulco’s water system: In Survival Mode?” [December 2022], FONATUR produces 15 million liters of potable water per day from nine wells near the Copalita river).

The second issue cited against the operation of the golf course under the ten-year lease is the fact that the company operating the golf course hasn’t properly promoted it, which would aid in the promotion of Huatulco overall; the example cited is the failure of the course to schedule any professional golf tournaments.

Golf Course Fees

The fees to golf at Tangolunda are, to quote social media reviews, “muy caro” (very expensive). The Las Parotas website lists the fees for 18 holes: Mon-Thu, $2,700 mxn ($160 USD); Fri-Sun $4,000 mxn ($235 USD). There is a discount for locals. Although this is an expensive activity, affordable by few, the costs are not out of line for such a golf course.

To provide a comparison, on the website of the top 100 golf courses in Mexico, the Tangolunda golf course is listed as 49th. The top listed golf course on this website is Diamante Dunes in Cabo San Lucas. Its greens fees are listed at $320 USD for 18 holes. For the golf course Vidanta Nuevo Vallarta in Nuevo (Puerto) Vallarta, one up from the Tangolunda golf course on the list of best 100 courses, the cost is $195 USD.

Conversion to a National Park

With the expiry of the golf course lease in 2022, the current President of Mexico, AMLO (Andrés Manuel López Obrador) announced the golf course would be sold for $600 million mxn ($35 million USD), allowing Ricardo Salinas Pliego the first option to purchase it. Then on October 12, 2023, AMLO stated there were no purchase offers from Salinas Pliego or from anyone else and the Tangolunda golf course would be converted to a national park. This surprise announcement needs to be understood within a political context, the personal animosity between left-wing AMLO and conservative Ricardo Salinas Pliego.

According to the news site Infobae, on November 2, 2023, in his normal morning news conference, AMLO took several minutes to blame Ricardo Salinas Pliego for “leading a campaign against him.” AMLO accused Pliego of not paying taxes owed amounting to $25 billion mxn. Furthermore, he claimed that Salinas Pliego’s news organization (TV Azteca) inflated the number of deaths from the Acapulco hurricane for political purposes.

Salinas Pliego responded the same day saying that AMLO was abusing his power because his tax case was before the courts and AMLO was linking victims of the Acapulco hurricane to his (Salinas Pliego’s) organization in order to deflect political pressure on the president. The two have had public spats over private planes and educational textbooks as well.

The Current (Uncertain) State of the Golf Course

The Tangolunda golf course continues to operate normally under the ownership of Salinas Pliego, regardless of the political rhetoric. And the story is not over. There have been official protests against the conversion of the golf course by a number of Huatulco area business organizations. At the Oaxaca state level, the chamber of deputies has approved a motion asking for the Secretariat of the Environment and Natural Resources (SEMARNAT) to refrain from declaring the Tangolunda golf course a Protected Natural Area.

Moreover, when Oaxaca governor Salomón Jara Cruz announced there would be investigations into the legitimacy of some of the real estate transactions in Huatulco carried out by FONATUR during previous administrations, he added that the Tangolunda golf course, despite the announcement to convert it to a national park, was tied up in litigation over the extension of the original ten-year lease. Because of this litigation, no change can be made to the golf course.

Then on January 15, 2024, we learned that Jara Cruz has accused a particular FONATUR executive with corruption by extending the ten-year lease without authorization. Salinas Pliego has responded by saying all regulations have been followed and his company has the lease extended until 2027.

So perhaps when thinking about the future of the Tangolunda golf course, the best advice might be from historic New York Yankees coach Yogi Berra, who famously said “It ain’t over till it’s over.”

For contact or comment, email: box95jackson@gmail.com

I Heart Axolotls

By Julie Etra

The first time I saw the salamander called axolotl(s) (Ambystoma mexicanum, aka ajolote) endemics of the remnant lakes of the Valley of Mexico and now confined to Xochimilco, was in Xochimilco at one of the tourist ‘museums’ along a main canal.

The pinkish creatures on exhibit are commercially produced, and not native to the polluted waters of Xochimilco, the wetland system in the heart of Mexico City. and they exhibit the pinkish color of domestication. Wild populations are brown/tan with gold speckles and an olive undertone. This critically endangered species lost most of its habitat centuries ago due to the draining of the valley by the conquering Spaniards, with Xochimilco now a vestige of its former self. Axolotls have a lizard-like head, described as “friendly-faced,” surrounded by feathery gills, four legs, and a tail. They range in size from 6 to 18 inches.

Cute, But Critically Endangered

The axolotl is only found in the wild in the waters of Xochimilco. A 2003 study by the Mexican Academy of Sciences found an average of 6,000 axolotls for each sq km of Xochimilco, about 1,020,000 axolotls; by 2015, it was down to 36 per sq km, or about 6,120. A more recent study found fewer than a thousand in all of the 170 square kilometers of Xochimilco.

The ancient Aztec capital of Tenochtitlán, now Mexico City, was founded in the early 1300s CE on an island in Lake Texcoco. Texcoco was connected with four other lakes in the Valley of Mexico, one of which was Xochimilco. After the Spaniards conquered the Aztecs in 1521, they drained much of the valley, leaving Xochimilco a vestige of its former self.

Habitat for the axolotl was sharply reduced but still existed up until about the 1950s. Since then, habitat degradation has accelerated as rapid urbanization has changed the distribution, movement, and management of water systems in the Valley.

In addition, the water system has been degraded by pollution from urban runoff and uncontrolled development, raw sewage, agricultural waste, and land use conversion, and has been reduced by drawdown of lake levels to supply water to Mexico City and the surrounding environs. Today, most of the water in Xochimilco’s canals comes from a water treatment plant in nearby Cerro de la Estrella, but supplies are inconsistent.

Predation is also a factor in the axolotl’s decline. Carp and tilapia were introduced in Xochimilco in the 1970s in an effort to increase food supplies; unfortunately, they prey on axolotl eggs and young. Loss of shade cover and food – they eat mollusks, worms, insect larvae, brine shrimp, other small crustacea, and small fish – also continue to accompany loss of habitat.

Why is it so important to “bring back” the wild axolotl? For the same reason preserving all species is important – genetic variation. As noted below, the axolotl is very important to biological research, as it is one of the few animals that can regenerate lost body parts. Commercial breeding technology reduces genetic variation, thus weakening the organism’s ability to adapt. This affects the animal’s ability to survive in the wild, and to respond to changes introduced in research.

Physiology and Morphology

This rather large salamander has a number of physiological features that make it unusual. Although it is one species of tiger salamander, it is unique in its “neoteny,” a zoological term that means the retention of juvenile features into adulthood, that is, the axolotl never undergoes metamorphosis, for example, the process of a tadpole changing to a frog. The axolotl’s gills remain external, and they retain their tail fins. Unlike other salamanders this one never makes it to land, completing its life cycle entirely in the water.

The axolotl is important for research because it has can rapidly regenerate parts of itself, making it useful for studying the potential for tissue regeneration in humans. In just a few months, they can regenerate not just their tails, but their skin, muscles, bones, blood vessels, central nervous system, heart, and brain.

What other animals can regenerate body parts? In fact, quite a few. Other species of salamanders can regenerate their tails; starfish can regenerate their “arms” and their bodies from arms; sharks regrow their teeth throughout their lives. The Mexican tetra, a fresh water fish, can regrow heart tissue. Many lizards, including iguanas, skinks, anoles, and geckos, can regenerate their tails. But none of these can do as much as the axolotl.

Despite remaining juvenile all their lives, axolotls reach sexual maturity at 17-27 months and can breed several times a year. Because their habitat is entirely aquatic – that is, no drought conditions – they can generate more offspring per breeding event (salamanders do not reproduce well, often not at all, under drought conditions). After the courtship dance, the female axolotl takes up the sperm capsule deposited by the male. Fertilized eggs are laid individually on aquatic vegetation.

The Axolotl in Mythology

The axolotl loomed large in Mexica (the Aztec group that built Tenochtitlán) mythology, and they were included in their art and creation myths. The name axolotl (from the Nahuatl atl = “water” and xólotl = “monster” or “dog”) means water monster or water dog, and is the aquatic form of Xólotl, the Aztec god of fire and lightning and the twin brother of Quetzalcóatl (the feathered serpent deity).

According to Aztec legend – and there are many versions of each legend – when the sun was created, it did not move. Each god was supposed to sacrifice a body part to make the sun move and to begin life, but Xólotl did not want to sacrifice any part of himself. To hide from fellow gods (would-be assassins), Xólotl transformed himself into a variety of plants and animals, including the xoloitzcuintle, the hairless pre-Columbian dog. The axolotl was his last camouflage before he was captured and killed.

The Axolotl in Literature

An obscure short story, written in 1954, was brought to my attention by a good and extremely literate friend from Pluma Hidalgo. “Axolotl” is by the French-Argentinian writer Julio Cortázar (1914-84), and was published in his 1956 collection End of the Game and Other Stories. The story is told by a lonely man visiting the aquarium at the zoo (ménagerie) at the Museum of Natural History in Paris. He becomes fascinated and obsessed by the axolotls and eventually believes he has been transformed into one of them. Although I read it in English, I found it to be dark and depressing, and overly descriptive. (Available through the University of Kentucky at http://www.ambystoma.uky.edu/teachers_materials/axolitbook/AxolotlByJulioCortazar.html.)

Another read is Axolotiada: Vida y mito de un anfibio mexicano (Axolotiada: Life and Myth of a Mexican Amphibian), by Mexican anthropologist Roger Bartra Murià (2011). An anthology of works about the famous amphibian, the book includes texts from the Mesoamerican codices to the work of authors such as Cortázar, Satoshi Tajir, Aldous Huxley (“A Fetal Monkey”), Primo Levi (“Angelical Butterfly”) and Octavio Paz (“Salamandra”), among others, along with graphics from street graffiti to the scientific illustrations of landscape painter José María Velasco and the murals of Diego Rivera.

Axolotls for the Laboratory

The majority of commercially-bred axolotls in the world today trace their ancestry to a shipment of 34 axolotls from Xochimilco to Paris in 1863, delivered to the zoo at the Museum of Natural History, the very place that inspired Cortázar to write his strange tale. The amphibian is easy to breed in captivity and prolific. Animals were then supplied to various labs throughout Europe for research purposes.

Axolotls came from Europe to the US in 1935; five of those eventually made it into the hands of Dr. Rufus R. Humphrey, who bred more at the University of Buffalo. When he retired in 1957, Humphrey and his axolotls moved to Indiana University (the axolotls arrived in Bloomington by truck). When the head of the Indiana lab retired in 2005, the US axolotl collection relocated to the University of Kentucky and became the Ambystoma Genetic Stock Center (AGSC), but the genetic material has apparently bottlenecked from inbreeding. Thus the importance of saving the wild axolotl population in Xochimilco.

The Icon

The salamander has become so popular that in addition to being kept as pets, it recently won a 2017 contest to develop an “emoji pack” to represent Mexico City. There’s a Frida Kahlo axolotl, a Mexican flag axolotl wrapped in a snake, etc., etc.

If you look online in Mercado Libre or Amazon Mexico, or pretty much anywhere, you’ll find multiple axolotl accessories, particularly for children – charms, stuffed animals (peluche), coloring books. There are tee shirts for adults, not to mention beer (www.monstruodeagua.mx/)! In 2022, the Bank of Mexico issued a new 50-peso bill with a depiction of the now iconic salamander among the chinampas of Xochimilco on one side. On February 1, 2023 (National Axolotl Day in Mexico, in case you were wondering), the Chapultepec Zoo opened Anfibion, the Axolotl Museum and Amphibian Conservation Center, dedicated to the amphibian’s remarkable history and efforts to preserve the species.

Axolotls as Food

The Mexica fished and consumed axolotls – they were a supposed mainstay on the banquet tables of Aztec kings. And how did the Mexica prepare them? Pretty simple. First, the “hairs” (presumably the gills) were trimmed. Then the guts were removed, the remaining carcass washed and dried, seasoned with salt and dried chiles, wrapped in corn husks, and finally steamed. Provecho!

Some Xochimilco natives grew up eating axolotls in a type of tamale, combined with fish and vegetables.

I find this particularly interesting since the skin, in particular, of most salamanders, including other tiger salamanders, is toxic. Contact can numb some parts of the body, starting from the lips, tongue, the whole face, then going down to the arms and legs. Numbness can be followed by dizziness, muscle weakness, excessive drooling (no kidding), and finally to paralysis of the respiratory muscles. Axolotls, however, lack the skin glands that secrete the toxic mucus that protects against predators and poisons those who eat the skin.

Saving the Axolotl

Recently, serious efforts have focused on an ecosystem approach, restoring habitat at a very small scale. To support a native, successfully breeding population requires that you restore water quality and reduce, if not eliminate, any introduced predators. The revival of the ancient, traditional system of chinampa farming in the floating gardens of Xochimilco is the key to preserving the axolotls. For more on the chinampas, see my article “Chinampas, Calzadas, and Aqueducts,” in the February 2023 issue of The Eye (https://theeyehuatulco.com/?s=chinampas).

Political will, accompanied by active participation by the chinamperos, is obviously essential as symbiotic restoration of traditional farming provides the needed habitat.

In late 2023, The New York Times ran an article, “What It Takes To Save the Axolotl,” describing the comprehensive, albeit painstakingly slow and incremental, approach being implemented by the government and a team of biologists and farmers. High-quality sanctuaries are being recreated in isolated waters to support axolotl growth and reproduction while limiting predatory attacks by exotic fish (https://www.nytimes.com/2023/12/05/science/mexico-axolotl-biology.html).

In the early 2000s, the Mexican government had approached Dr. Luis Zambrano, an ecologist at the National Autonomous University of Mexico (UNAM), to survey the declining population. His UNAM lab is home to 150 axolotls from wild bloodlines. In 2017 he released 10 animals into an artificial lake on the campus to observe their behavior and collect data. This research continues. In addition to Dr. Zambrano, another team headed by biologist María Huitzil is studying the animal’s microbiota e.g., bacteria, fungi, viruses etc.; an additional group of researchers is being led by Dr. José Antonio Ocampo.

Dr. Zambrano recently released 12 animals in bamboo cages lowered into excavated soils in the artificial lake. The keys to creating successful isolated refuges are surprisingly simple and elegant: semipermeable volcanic rocks filter the water and block predators (the rock is readily available given the volcanic activity in the area), and vegetation provides habitat. Revived techniques of organic farming are becoming more accepted by some chinamperos, thus reducing contamination. Carlos Sumano, a UNAM agronomist, has for the past 11 years personally promoted traditional farming methods on his own chinampas.

And what happened to the 12 axolotls Zambrano released? After two months one of the 12 had died “of causes yet to be determined, and a pump had to be installed to improve oxygen levels in one canal. ‘But that’s all part of the experiment, right?’ Dr. Zambrano said. The rest of the axolotls were fat and happy.”

For more reading:

“A Tale of Two Axolotls” (www.academic.oup.com/bioscience/article/65/12/1134/223981)
“Axolotls in Crisis: The fight to Save the ‘Water Monster’ of Mexico City”
(www.theguardian.com/cities/2018/dec/04/axolotls-in-crisis-the-fight-to-save-the-water-monster-of-mexico-city)

American Dragons

By Brooke O’Connor

Dragons are known globally through myth, legends, and folklore. Sometimes they teach, sometimes they terrorize, but they always fascinate. Let’s look at our local dragons and how they became part of Meso-American culture. There are many versions of their stories, and their identities and powers varied over time and according to which Meso-American culture was worshipping them.

Quetzalcóatl

Mesoamerica’s most famous dragon is the feathered serpent god. Called Quetzalcóatl by the Toltecs, then the Aztecs, and then their successors the Nahua, the deity is called Kulkulkán in the Yucatec Maya mythology and religion. The Quiché (also K’iche’) Maya of Guatemala called their deity Gucumatz. The Huastecs of the Gulf Coast worshipped a wind god called Ehecatl; when they were taken over by the Aztecs in the 15th century, Ehecatl was united with Quetzalcóatl, who also ruled the wind. This revered god was prominent in Aztec art and folklore, manifesting in various artistic expressions.

There are multiple accounts regarding the birth of Quetzalcóatl. In one version, he was born to a virgin named Chimalman, who dreamed that Ometeotl (a binary god who was both husband and wife) appeared to her. Another story tells of Chimalman conceiving Quetzalcoatl by swallowing an emerald. A third narrative says that Mixcoatl (the god of hunting, war, and storms) shot Chimalman in the womb with an arrow. She stopped the arrow with her hand, and nine months later, she gave birth to a child named Quetzalcóatl. Lastly, a fourth story mentions Quetzalcóatl being born from Coatlicue (see below), who already had given birth to four hundred children who became the stars of the Milky Way; the association with Quetzalcóatl may come from her skirt of writhing snakes, or the story that she gave birth to Huitzilopochtli, god of sun and war, after being impregnated by a feather, or perhaps a ball of feathers.

Quetzalcóatl was a multi-faceted deity, and held dominion over many aspects of everyday life. He was revered as the Creator deity of the Morning and Stars, the guardian of craftsmen, a rain summoner, and a bringer of fire. Additionally, he imparted knowledge in the fine arts and is credited with the creation of the calendar.

Quetzalcóatl was the priest-king of Tula city in Hidalgo, where Mexico’s most important indigenous civilizations were born. Unlike many other gods, he strongly opposed the idea of regular human sacrifices; in one tale, he was known for his great kindness by suggesting sacrifices of snakes, birds, and butterflies instead of humans. There is some disagreement on this – he is shown in the 16th-century Codex Telleriano-Remensis swallowing a human being.

Quetzalcóatl’s reign was cut short when his vengeful brother Tezcatlipoca, god of war, night, and sorcery, used dark magic to banish him from Tula. One version says Tezcatlipoca inveigled him into committing drunken incest with his sister, Quetzalpétatl. Remorseful beyond measure, Quetzalcóatl left Tula and journeyed to the coast of the Atlantic Ocean, where he ultimately sacrificed himself on a pyre and transformed into the planet Venus. There are multiple versions of how Quetzalcóatl’s life ended – another story says he departed on a raft made of snakes, sailing beyond the eastern horizon.

In Huatulco, it is said he was the deity that came to Santa Cruz Beach and taught the locals how to thrive long before the Spanish arrived.

For more see: Quetzalcóatl Meso-American God – Naked History. http://www.historynaked.com/quetzalcoatl-meso-american-god/.

Coatlicue

Coatlicue roughly translates as “she-of-the-serpent-skirt” because she wore a skirt (īcue) of serpents (cōātl), and was accompanied by two dragons. She represented the duality of nature and sometimes wore a necklace with a heart, human hands, and claws. Coatlicue symbolized nature for the Aztecs and guided people through the process of rebirth; she was considered an earth goddess.

Coatlicue was also a symbol of maternal fertility. One day, the earth goddess was busy sweeping on top of Coatepec in what is now the state of Veracruz, also known as Snake Mountain, when a feather accidentally landed in her apron. In that very instant, she miraculously became pregnant with a son, whom she named Huitzilopochtli, a powerful deity associated with the sun and warfare. When she became pregnant with Huitzilopochtli, her older sons, Centzon and Huitznahua, gods of the southern stars, became angry and decided to wage war against their mother. However, Huitzilopochtli leaped out of the womb in total warrior regalia and slew his siblings before they had a chance to kill their mother. Huitzilopochtli became the patron god of the Mexica tribe and was later given the same deity status as Quetzalcóatl.

Coatlicue is immortalized in statues with her head cut off and blood squirting out from her neck. This may be because of a myth about several female deities, including Coatlicue, who sacrificed themselves to put the sun in motion. Their selflessness effectively allowed time to continue, and they preserved the cosmos by offering their own lives.

For more see: http://www.khanacademy.org/humanities/art-americas/early-cultures/aztec-mexica/a/coatlicue. To get to the article, close the Khan Academy donation page by clicking the ‘x’ in the upper right corner.

Chaac

Chaac is the Mayan god of thunder, lightning, and rain. His basic form is human; his “dragon-ness” comprises a lengthy crocodile-like snout that curls – when Chaac appears on temple ruins, the snout looks more like an elephant trunk. His snout and body are adorned with reptilian or fish-like scales; he has ears resembling a deer, sometimes adorned with a shell. He carries a mighty axe, known as the lightning ax, capable of conjuring lightning bolts.

Chaac was depicted in four different aspects. The Four Chaacs were positioned in cardinal directions, and each wore a color representing their direction. The Chaac in the East, where the sun rises, wore red. The Chaac in the North, at the mid-day zenith, wore white. The Chaac in the West, representing the sunset, wore black. Lastly, the Chaac in the South wore yellow. A fifth color, green, is associated with the center point. In 16th-century Yucatán, the Chaac in the East was known as Chac Xib Chaac, meaning “Red Man Chaac,” with only the colors being different for the other three Chaacs.

As the rain-making deity, Chaac gained immense popularity among the Mayan gods. The Palace at the Kabah ruins in the state of Yucatàn boasts a façade with an impressive collection of over two hundred masks depicting his face. Chaac enjoyed widespread worship among the Mayans, unlike other gods with limited cult centers. His name and reverence held particular significance during the crucial planting and harvesting seasons.

The Mayans believed that the god Chaac had a primary role in rain-making, but he also had dominion over all water sources. Chaac required a specific sacrifice to bring rain – the blood of royalty from the Earth. He had to shed his own blood to make it rain, and he believed in the “blood for blood principle.”

This rainbringer held the key to survival for the Mayans. Their strong desire to appease him with blood not only reflected their desperate need for water and bountiful harvests but also their deep-rooted belief in the importance of sacrifice and renewal for sustaining life. In this intricate cycle, humans offered sacrifices to Chaac, while Chaac himself shed his blood to ensure the revival of crops, and each person was expected to sacrifice something of themselves for the good of the whole.

The Mayans’ deep understanding of Chaac’s influence on rainfall enabled them to create sophisticated irrigation systems and techniques for managing water. By building canals, reservoirs and using terracing methods, they effectively utilized Chaac’s rain to support their agricultural activities.

Even today, modern Mayan communities deeply respect Chaac’s role in agriculture and water. They continue to perform ceremonies and rituals to pay homage to Chaac, acknowledging his vital role in maintaining the cycles of life and fertility. He was considered responsible for the balance of ecosystems and reminded people of the delicate dance between all creations in nature, including humans.

For more see: http://www.oldworldgods.com/mayan/chaac-god-of-rain/.

Dragons, dragons everywhere

Dragons are widely associated with medieval-esque lore and fantasy fiction, but we see they have an essential role in shaping cultures centuries, if not millennia, before the Middle Ages. Renowned psychologist Carl Jung taught that dragons symbolized the cold-bloodedness in our subconsciousness. He said they personify the brutal fear and ancient power of raw, unfettered natural law from times long past. He believed we used dragons to represent the “old ways.” He explains that as humans evolved, dragons became less emblematic as we took on more warm-blooded, gentler symbols. However, one has to ask, in the modern day, if dragons haven’t found their way back into society, dressed in cozy sheep’s clothing.

Popocatépetl and Family

By Julie Etra

With 38 volcanoes, a dozen of them active, Mexico still only has the eighth most volcanoes in the world. It’s not the world leader in earthquakes, either. However, the mutual potential for for volcanoes and earthquakes to cause disaster hangs over the country like a pall of smoke.

Mexico’s Big Three Volcanoes

Popocatépetl, an active volcano, is the second highest peak in Mexico at an elevation of 5,393 m (17,694 ft), following the highest peak, Citlaltépetl (Pico de Orizaba) at an elevation 5,636 m (18,491 ft). It is affectionately known by its nickname “El Popo.” Its name is derived from the Nahuatl popōca, meaning “it smokes” and tepētl, meaning “mountain” or “smoking mountain.” Citlaltépetl is also derived from Nahuatl: citlal means “star” and of course tepētl = mountain. (There is a stationary store on Gardenia called Papeleria Citlalli, so now you know what it means.)

At an elevation 5,230 m (17,160 ft), Iztaccíhuatl is the third highest mountain in Mexico and occurs just north of El Popo. Its name means white woman in Nahuatl (iztāc = “white”; cihuātl = “woman”), since it resembles a woman lying on her back and is often snow-covered.

The three volcanoes are located to the east of Mexico City: Popocatépetl is about 70 km (43 miles) southeast of Mexico City, where the states of México, Morelos, and Puebla meet; on a clear day, it is easily seen from the city. Iztaccíhuatul is about 90 km (54 miles) from Mexico City. Pico de Orizaba, about 200 km (120 miles) from Mexico City, rises just west of the city of Orizaba at the border of the states of Puebla and Veracruz. Those who drive to Huatulco from the north easily see Popocatepétl and Iztaccíhuatul looking south from 150D; Pico de Orizaba is on your left as you leave the state of Puebla and enter Veracruz.

All three volcanos are steep-walled stratovolcanos, generally symmetrical and cone-shaped and with a 400 x 600 m wide crater. Stratovolcanoes are sometimes called composite volcanoes because of their composite layered structure, formed from successive eruptions (strato = layer in Latin). And all three occur along the Trans-Mexican volcanic belt, aka the Mexican “Ring of Fire,” which stretches across central Mexico from the Pacific Ocean to the Gulf of Mexico – route 150D runs right through the middle of the volcanic belt.

El Popo is geologically connected to Iztaccíhuatl, 12.9 km (8 miles) to the north through the Paso de Cortés; this is the high pass that Hernando Cortés and his men followed after their conquest of Cholula in 1519, on their way to conquer the capital of the Aztec/Mexica Empire, Tenochtitlán.

The two volcanoes are protected as they lie in the Izta-Popo Zoquiapan National Park, which runs north and south within the Sierra Nevada range (Sierra Nevada means “snow covered” [nevada] “mountain range” [sierra]). On the west side of the range the watershed provides snow melt and creek water to the Valley of Mexico (formerly Lake Texcoco). Until relatively recently, the three volcanoes were the only instance of glaciation – they had year-round snow/ice cover – in Mexico; in the 1990s, however, both the Glaciar Norte and the Glaciar del Ventorillo of Popocatépetl began to retreat, due to both warming conditions and increased volcanism. Although ice remains in some places, Popocatépetl’s glaciers were gone by 2001.

Popocatépetl is Mexico’s most active volcano with 15 eruptions recorded since 1519. On May 20, 2023, both Mexico City airports (Benito Juarez Mexico City International Airport [MEX] and Felipe Angeles International Airport [NLU]) had to close temporarily due to increased volcanic activity and ash fall. Most recently, on November 1, 2023, the cone exploded with gray ash. This activity is not unusual, and in fact we stopped to watch it smoking on our way from Mexico City to Puebla a few years ago, with the sun setting behind it. Spectacular. Iztaccíhuatl is dormant and has not erupted since 1868. Pico de Orizaba last erupted in 1846.

Legends of the Mexican Volcanos

The Legend of Popocatépetl and Iztaccíhuatl. Legend has it that these two mountains represent a young warrior and a young princess. Once upon a time in Mexico (but after the rise of the Aztec empire), a beautiful Tlaxcalan maiden princess named Iztaccíhuatl fell in love with a young Tlaxcalan warrior, Popoca. (Tlaxcala is now a small state southeast of Mexico City.) She was the most beautiful princess who ever existed, and he was one of the most handsome and brave warriors of his village.

The Tlaxacans sided with the Spanish during the conquest of 1519-1521 in an effort to end the costly tributes they paid to the sprawling Aztec empire with its centralized, wealthy capital of Tenochtitlán (basically, Mexico City). Before departing for the ongoing wars with the powerful Aztecs, Popoca asked the cacique (chief) of the village for the hand of the princess. This was granted under the condition that the young man return safe and sound.
Popoca left for battle, presumably with the forces of Cortés, while the princess waited impatiently for his return. Meanwhile a jealous, poison-tongued rival, also in love with the princess, lied to her, fabricating a story of how her beloved had died in battle. Overcome by grief and inconsolable through this treacherous deceit, she died from a broken heart. A short time later, Popoca returned victoriously from battle ready to take the hand of his betrothed, only to find that she had died.

It is said that the young man, dejected, wandered through the streets for days and nights contemplating a way to honor their great love for each other. He decided to build her a large tomb under the Sun and compiled 10 hills to build an enormous mountain. Once built, he took the inert body of his beloved and laid her on the top of the mountain. As he kneeled over her with a smoking torch in one hand, he kissed her one last time, watching her dream eternally.

Since then, they have remained together. Eventually snow covered their bodies, becoming the two snow-capped enormous volcanoes that will remain unchanged until the end of time. When the warrior Popoca, now the mountain Popocatépetl, remembers his beloved Iztaccíhuatl, his heart, which maintains the fire of eternal passion, trembles, and his torch ignites again. That is why, even today, the Popocatépetl volcano continues to spew plumes of smoke from its fumaroles.

The Legend of Pico de Orizaba. At the peak of the Olmec civilization lived a beautiful and brave warrior named Nahuani. She was always seen in the company of her best friend, an eagle named Ahuilizapan (in Nahuatl, the “place of the happy waters,” pronunciation reduced to “Orizaba” in Spanish). Their friendship was legendary, and Ahuilizapan was always with her in battle. Finally, Nahuani died in battle and such was Ahuilizapan’s sadness and pain, the eagle flew as high as she could and plummeted back down to earth, where she eventually became a mountain and then a volcano. After many years of relative tranquility, Ahuilizapan remembered the moment she lost her best friend and began to spew lava. This is the reason that even now people climb this peak as high as they can, leaving offerings to keep the eagle calm.

Geology and a Brief Lesson in Plate Tectonics

Or, why the southern coast of Mexico is particularly prone to earthquakes.

The rigid outer shell of the planet, known as the lithosphere, is fractured into seven or eight major plates (depending on how they are defined) and many minor plates (“platelets”). Where the plates meet, their motion in relation to each other determines the type of plate boundary, known as faults and fault zones. They can move side by side, known as a strike slip, and under adjacent plates, called subduction, and in all kinds of combinations of movement. The relative movement of the plates typically ranges from zero to 10 cm annually. Faults result in earthquakes, volcanic activity, mountain-building, and oceanic trench formation. The Trans-Mexican volcanic belt and associated volcanoes result from the the Pacific Plate and the smaller Cocos Plate subducting beneath the North American Plate.

Oaxaca lies over the convergent boundary where the Cocos Plate is subducted beneath the North American Plate. The rate of convergence in this part of the boundary is 60 mm per year, or six times what is typical. This boundary is associated with many damaging earthquakes along the plate interface, within the descending Cocos slab, and within the overriding North American Plate

The frequency of earthquakes along the Pacific coast of Mexico is increased by geologic activity in the Middle American Trench, a submarine depression that runs from below Baja California in Mexico to Costa Rica. This oceanic trench is a major subduction zone, containing the Pacific, Cocos, and Nazca Plates on the ocean side and the North American and Caribbean Plates on the inland side. The trench is 2,750 km (1,700 miles) long and 6,669 m (21,880 feet) deep at its deepest point.

The Tehuantepec Ridge runs straight (an unusual configuration) across the Cocos Plate and under mainland Mexico near the Oaxaca-Chiapas border. The ridge is an old fracture zone, a place where plates stick; many shallow subduction angles result in perfect conditions for frequent, strong Oaxacan earthquakes. Indeed, Oaxaca has had over 14,000 earthquakes in or near the region since 1995; a quarter of all the earthquakes in Mexico occur in Oaxaca, and no, there is no homeowner’s earthquake insurance that I know of.

Notable Mexican Earthquakes
Oaxacan earthquake of 1931. On January 14, 1931, a devastating earthquake with a magnitude of 7.8 struck the state capital, Oaxaca de Juárez. Oaxaca City was pretty isolated at the time, with only 35,000 inhabitants versus the current population of 300,050 (2014 census). The quake lasted about four minutes. Archives reported that 80% of the homes were destroyed, but a number of weaker tremors, or foreshocks, increasing in intensity, preceded the major quake, as opposed to aftershocks (replicas in Spanish). This tectonic warning allowed residents to flee their homes, resulting in only about 60 fatalities.

Mexico City earthquake of 1985 struck on September 19 at just after 7 a.m. with a magnitude of 8.0. (For reference, the strongest earthquake ever recorded was a magnitude 9.5; the Great Chilean Earthquake occurred in Valdivia, a town on the southern coast of Chile, on May 22, 1960.) The Mexico City seismic event caused serious damage to the Greater Mexico City urban area and at least 5,000 fatalities. A foreshock of magnitude 5.2 had occurred the prior May, the main quake was September 19, and there were two large aftershocks whose epicenters were in the Middle American Trench – more than 350 kilometers (220 mi) away.

The event caused between $3 and $5 billion USD in damage. Hundreds of buildings were destroyed and thousands more were seriously damaged. The degree of damage was due to the large magnitude of the quake, the size of the urbanized area, the lack of engineering in old structures, and the ancient, wave-amplifying lake bed on which Mexico City lies. This unstable substrate proides one of the ostensible reasons that President Andrés Manuel López Obrador halted construction of a new Mexico City airport in 2018).

Oaxacan earthquake of 2108. The hypocenter of this magnitude 7.2 earthquake was located 24.5 km (15 miles) deep, and the epicenter was about 37 km (23 miles) northeast of Pinotepa de Don Luis in northwest Oaxaca near the border with the state of Guerrero. (The hypocenter is where IN the earth the quake starts; the epicenter is ON the surface). The epicenter was in a rural area, with little reported damage to structures. A total of 14 people were killed as a result of a military helicopter crash surveying the damage, and not from the earthquake itself.

Oaxacan earthquake of 2020. The last big earthquake in Oaxaca occurred on June 23, 2020, with a magnitude of 7.5. The epicenter was between San Miguel del Puerto (north and west of Copalita) and the small village of Santa María Zapotitlán on the Isthmus. While it shook here in Huatulco, with over 200 replicas, it devastated the town of Juchitán de Zaragoza on the Isthmus of Tehauntepec, where older structures were not engineered to withstand strong earthquakes. The quake was felt by an estimated 49 million people as far south as Guatemala, with some tremors felt as far away as 640 kilometers (400 mi). Thousands of houses in Oaxaca were damaged and ten fatalities were reported. A tsunami warning was issued for southern Mexico and as far south as Honduras, but the tsunami did not occur.

Mexican construction requirements have been strengthened to avoid earthquake damage. When we designed our house in Huatulco almost 15 years ago, the plans had to be approved by FONATUR in Mexico City, at the federal level, and withstand an 8.0 quake. That’s a lot of rebar but we had no damage to the house other than a few superficial cracks.