Category Archives: Huatulco

Carnitas: The Monarch of the Copper Cauldron

By Ben Indi—

Porchetta, confit of goose, rillettes, confit de canard… it would seem that the great kitchens of the Old World have always found something inherently noble about cooking an animal in its own fat. To the uninitiated, or to those who see gastronomy as little more than fuel, the idea may sound excessive, even ironic. Yet history has proven, time and again, that few techniques reward patience more generously. Fat, after all, is not merely indulgence—it is one of the oldest vessels of flavor mankind has ever discovered.

Mexico embraced that lesson in its own unmistakable way. Blessed with an extraordinarily rich culinary heritage, introduced to the pig after the arrival of the Spanish, and armed with the practical ingenuity that has long defined its people, the country forged one of the true giants of its national cuisine: carnitas.

Travel through almost any region of Mexico and you will discover how indispensable they have become. From bustling city markets to roadside stands and sleepy village plazas, carnitas are woven into everyday life with such ease that one could almost mistake them for something eternal. They are not, of course. Historical records place their consumption as early as the seventeenth century, and tradition consistently points toward the state of Michoacán as their spiritual birthplace. There, the town of Quiroga proudly claims to serve the most authentic—and, according to many devoted pilgrims, the finest version of them all.

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Like many great dishes, carnitas possess a deceptive simplicity. At their core they require only four things: pork, pork fat, salt, and a cazo set over the fire.

A cazo is no ordinary pot. It is an enormous vessel devoted almost exclusively to the preparation of carnitas, traditionally hammered from copper. That choice was never accidental. Copper distributes heat with remarkable consistency, allowing enormous quantities of meat to cook evenly over many hours. Considering that a single batch may require an entire pig, it is difficult to imagine a working carnitas cauldron holding fewer than forty liters. Many hold several times that amount, quietly standing at the center of family businesses that have survived for generations.

Spend enough time around carnitas and you will eventually collect a small anthology of sayings.
“Good carnitas need no disguise.”
“The best carnitas are eaten standing up.”
“The secret is in the cauldron.”
“Carnitas cannot be rushed.”
“You can smell a good cazo from a block away.”

Whether or not every one of these sayings is genuinely traditional hardly matters. Together they reveal the reverence surrounding the craft. Yet perhaps no sentence captures its philosophy more completely than this:

“Carnitas don’t have a recipe; they have a master.”

Every respectable maestro develops an instinct that cannot be measured with thermometers or timers alone. Temperature, color, aroma, the sound of bubbling fat, the feel of the meat as it yields beneath a wooden paddle—these become the true language of the craft. Observation and patience outweigh written instructions, while repetition gradually evolves into intuition.

That knowledge is rarely given away freely. Each master protects subtle details of technique with quiet pride, not out of arrogance, but out of respect for a lifetime spent beside the cauldron. It is therefore no surprise that carnitas are so often a family trade, passed from parents to children until the methods become less like formulas and more like inherited instincts. In many establishments, the copper cazo itself becomes a family heirloom, blackened by decades of fire yet polished by thousands upon thousands of unforgettable meals.

So what, then, is the definitive recipe? The answer is almost certainly that there isn’t one. To understand Mexican cooking is to understand something deeper about Mexico itself. Scarcity has often demanded creativity, and broken circumstances have repeatedly forced ordinary people to become extraordinary problem-solvers. More often than not, those improvisations have given birth to dishes that later generations came to regard as timeless classics. Carnitas are no exception.

Orthodoxy certainly exists, but so does freedom. One cook may add only pork, fat, salt, and water. Another may quietly introduce milk for color, oranges for fragrance, pineapple for sweetness, bay leaves, cloves, piloncillo, cola, or even beer. Every addition has its defenders. Every omission has its purists.

Limit your imagination if you wish; Mexican cooks rarely will. Still, complexity has always had a minimalist rival, and thankfully so.

Should fortune lead you to a humble stand where the only additions to the cauldron are water and salt, do not mistake simplicity for compromise. Quite the opposite. Some of the most unforgettable carnitas you will ever taste owe their greatness precisely to that restraint. They remind us that extraordinary cooking is not always about adding more, but about understanding when nothing else is needed.

When the time finally comes to eat, the ritual is refreshingly uncomplicated. Fresh tortillas are non-negotiable. Salsa is expected. You will almost certainly find sliced radishes, chopped onion, and cilantro waiting nearby. Yet if I were asked to name one ingredient that deserves to stand beside the carnitas themselves, my answer would be simple: lime.

There is an old joke that squeezing lime over a carnitas taco magically turns it into diet food. Let us not insult one another’s intelligence. This is hardly the sort of meal one chooses while counting calories. Save your remorse for tomorrow’s workout and devote today’s attention to the pleasures of the table. Some indulgences deserve to be enjoyed without apology.

Ordering carnitas, however, is an education all its own. You are not merely choosing meat; you are choosing a particular expression of the pig. Lean maciza, juicy ribs, liver, tongue, chamorro (the shank), silky cuerito (skin), buche (stomach), nana (uterus), nenepil (uterus and stomach connective tissue), snout, cheek, or the celebrated surtida, a glorious mixture of several cuts working together in perfect harmony.

If you wish to impress the person behind the chopping block, confidently ask for a taco de nana. There is a fair chance they may not even have it that day, but the mere request is often enough to earn a knowing smile. It tells them you have wandered beyond the safety of the tourist’s order.

Once your credentials have been established, you may elevate the conversation further by asking for chamorro con cuero, a combination many consider a timeless classic. As for me, I remain unconvinced. Magnificent though it may be, I believe it ultimately surrenders its crown to the humble taco de surtida, which I gladly proclaim the undisputed monarch of the copper cauldron. Rich, textured, unapologetically imperfect, it embodies everything carnitas aspire to be in a single tortilla.

I could happily devote several more pages to explaining the finer distinctions between these cuts, but I would much rather leave you with a reason to continue exploring on your own. Curiosity has always been one of the finest seasonings any meal can possess.

My brief stay in San Miguel de Allende has not afforded me enough time to visit every carnitas stand the city has to offer. I do have a favorite, naturally, and I admit I have been tempted to tell you exactly where it is. Then again, I suspect I would be robbing you of one of the greatest pleasures this country offers. Finding your own favorite taco is a journey.

It is the excuse to wander unfamiliar streets, to follow an irresistible aroma drifting through the afternoon air, to trust the longest line of locals, or simply to stop wherever the copper cauldron catches your eye. More often than not, those small detours become the memories that endure long after the meal itself has faded.

Every memorable city deserves to be discovered twice: once through its monuments, and once through its kitchens. Mexico, perhaps more than anywhere else, understands this truth.

So wherever your travels may take you, approach the copper cauldron with both appetite and curiosity. Listen to the crackle of the bubbling fat, watch the practiced rhythm of the master’s knife, accept the taco with both hands, and remember that you are tasting far more than pork cooked in lard. You are sharing in centuries of craftsmanship, family tradition, patience, and quiet pride.

Eat well. Eat slowly. And above all, enjoy every bite.

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The Gourmet Triangle: Eats in Roma Norte, Roma Sur, and Condesa

By Carole Reedy—

Surely you’ve heard about the variety and quality of the restaurants in this charming historic area of Mexico City. What you may not realize is that you don’t have to empty your wallet to enjoy a memorable meal.

The recommendations listed here won’t be found in the many articles naming the “Top Ten” places to eat in Mexico City, but they do promise authentic flavors, a warm Mexican welcome, and a meal you’ll still feel good about when the credit card bill arrives.

The Colonias
The neighborhoods (colonias) of Roma Norte, Roma Sur, and Condesa form a triangle just southwest of the city center. It’s an easy area to explore on foot, with tree-lined streets, beautiful parks, and striking Art Deco architecture.

You’ll find everything here—from taco stands and neighborhood cafés to some of the city’s most celebrated restaurants. The good news is that there are excellent choices at every price point.

Each neighborhood has its own personality. Roma Sur feels more residential and relaxed, with more families than tourists. Roma Norte is livelier, filled with cafés, boutiques, and nightlife. Condesa is the most polished of the three, known for its parks, outdoor dining, and stylish atmosphere.

Roma Sur
Let’s begin at the heart of the neighborhood food scene: Mercado Medellín, on the corner of Medellín and Campeche. Named for the street on which it stands, the market is especially known for its Colombian, Cuban, Venezuelan, and Peruvian vendors, making it one of the best places in the city to experience the flavors of Latin America.

Aisle after aisle offers fresh produce, meats, seafood, flowers, spices, cheeses, baked goods, and specialty ingredients. In the back, you’ll even find household goods and hardware.

Several small restaurants are scattered throughout the market, serving fresh, inexpensive Mexican dishes. Grab a seat among the locals and enjoy one of the city’s most authentic dining experiences.

A block or two north on Calle Medellín you’ll find several neighborhood eateries. One local favorite is Pollos Mario, best known for its rotisserie chicken and Colombian specialties. It’s affordable, lively, and consistently popular.

Also on Medellín, between Campeche and Nayarit, is El Compita, a bustling taquería where the steady stream of local diners is usually a good indication you’ve found something worth trying.

After your tacos, stroll a couple of doors down to Dulce Refugio for dessert and coffee.

If you’re craving pizza or Italian food, DoppioZero Pizza Romana, just around the corner on Coahuila, is a dependable choice. Across the street, Aburger serves Angus burgers that satisfy those occasional comfort-food cravings.

The variety, quality, and reasonable prices make this neighborhood an ideal place to combine sightseeing with a leisurely lunch or dinner.

The Bistros of Roma Norte and Condesa
One of the pleasures of these neighborhoods is dining outdoors, surrounded by elegant Art Deco buildings and the leafy parks that give the area so much of its charm.

Start with coffee and a milhojas—a delicate pastry layered with cream and fruit—at Rosetta Bakery on Colima. The bakery is almost always busy, but the pastries are well worth the wait.

Across from Parque México, at the corner of Michoacán and Avenida México, Toscana is the perfect place to linger over breakfast or lunch. The menu ranges from huevos mexicanos to Reuben sandwiches, and the relaxed atmosphere invites you to stay awhile.

Just down the street is Nonna, one of my favorite places to take visitors. The menu features classic Italian dishes, an excellent wine list, and a welcoming atmosphere that makes it easy to settle in for the evening.

Continue toward Insurgentes and you’ll come to La Naval, a combination gourmet grocery, wine shop, and liquor store. It’s an excellent place to stock up if you’re entertaining, with a wonderful selection of cheeses, deli items, wines, beers, and specialty spirits.

Better yet, stay for tapas at the restaurant attached to the store, where you can enjoy Spanish-inspired small plates in either the indoor dining room or on the terrace.

Asian cuisine has become increasingly popular in the area, and two restaurants stand out.

Sesame, next to Rosetta Bakery, has been serving creative Asian-inspired dishes for years. Its inventive cocktails and consistently good food have helped it remain a neighborhood favorite. Don’t miss the lamb samosas or the pad Thai.

A newer addition is Kiin Viet Thai Eatery on Orizaba. The prices are a bit higher than many of the other restaurants mentioned here, but the fresh Vietnamese and Thai flavors make it worth the splurge. Just be prepared—the spice level can rival even the hottest Mexican dishes.

One of the joys of exploring Roma Norte, Roma Sur, and Condesa is discovering that some of the city’s best meals aren’t found in the trendiest dining rooms. They’re tucked into neighborhood markets, family-run cafés, bustling taquerías, and bakeries where locals gather every day. Come hungry, wander a little, and you’ll eat remarkably well—without breaking the bank.

The Politics of Corn: Who Owns Mexico’s Corn?

By Estefanía Camacho—

For decades, Mexicans have embraced the catchy phrase “sin maíz no hay país” (“without corn, there is no country”), reflecting the idea that corn is indeed everywhere, perhaps as widespread as the nopal cactus, and has long been a vital source of nourishment.
Although the phrase was probably never meant to suggest that the country would literally cease to exist if corn disappeared, the ancient Maya would likely have agreed with its underlying message. According to the Popol Vuh, the sacred book of the Maya, which many Mexican students start studying in their early school years, the first humans successfully created by the gods were made of corn. Thus, humankind came to inhabit the Earth. For thousands of years, corn has shaped Mexico’s identity. Today, however, the question is no longer simply where corn comes from, but who controls its future.

The Decree That Started It All
Since 2018, Mexico’s left-wing governments have gained considerable public support by seeking to prohibit the cultivation and consumption of genetically modified corn, heeding warnings from a range of experts. The story continued with a presidential decree issued in February 2023.

As part of President Andrés Manuel López Obrador’s broader agenda on food sovereignty and national self-sufficiency, the Mexican government announced a series of measures concerning genetically modified corn and glyphosate. The decree framed native corn not simply as an agricultural commodity, but as part of Mexico’s biocultural heritage worthy of protection.

The policy prohibited the use of genetically modified corn in dough and tortillas, foods considered central to the Mexican diet. Officials argued that the measure would not disrupt trade because Mexico was already self-sufficient in the production of non-GM white corn, the variety traditionally used for tortillas. Mexico had never authorized the commercial cultivation of genetically modified corn within its territory, although that prohibition had not yet been enshrined in the Constitution.

The decree further distinguished corn according to its intended use, separating grain destined for direct human consumption from corn used for animal feed and industrial food production.

Finally, Mexico’s Federal Commission for the Protection against Sanitary Risks (COFEPRIS) was instructed to continue evaluating the potential health effects of genetically modified corn. U.S. officials, however, argued that the restrictions were not supported by sufficient scientific evidence.

Washington viewed the decree as a trade barrier that threatened billions of dollars in U.S. agricultural exports. The dispute ultimately reached the USMCA’s dispute settlement mechanism, and in December 2024 the panel ruled in favor of the United States.
Mexico complied with the ruling in February 2025 by eliminating the provisions restricting the use of genetically modified corn in tortillas, processed foods, and animal feed. Importantly, however, the decision did not authorize its cultivation.

Instead, President Claudia Sheinbaum responded by pursuing a constitutional amendment explicitly banning the cultivation of genetically modified corn in Mexico. In effect, Mexico accepted the panel’s ruling on imports and commercial use while simultaneously reinforcing its prohibition on growing genetically modified corn within its own borders.

The Industrialization of the Tortilla
The government’s argument rested on a simple premise: Mexico produces enough white corn to supply its tortillas. Technically, that is true. The tortilla market is dominated by surprisingly few companies.

Modern tortilla production is dominated by industrial flour manufacturers, above all Gruma, the parent company of Maseca, and its main competitor, Minsa—both founded in 1949 and today the country’s dominant producers of nixtamalized corn flour. Nixtamalization is the ancestral process of cooking corn kernels with an alkaline substance, transforming the resulting corn and improving its nutritional properties.

Gruma’s transformation began that same year, when businessman Roberto González Gutiérrez and his son, Roberto González Barrera, purchased equipment capable of milling dried nixtamal into flour, industrializing a process that had traditionally taken place in homes and neighborhood tortillerías.

The industry’s real technological leap came in 1965, when engineer Manuel Rubio joined the company and developed a machine capable of producing roughly 600 tortillas per minute, dramatically increasing production efficiency. From there, Gruma expanded well beyond Mexico. Today the company holds dozens of patents related to industrial corn flour and tortilla production and has become one of the world’s largest tortilla manufacturers.

Its expansion into the United States required an unusual strategy. Because Mexican manufacturing technology faced import restrictions at the time, Gruma entered the American market by acquiring an existing U.S. company instead. Government support also played an important role in the company’s early growth. A loan backed by the governor of Nuevo León helped finance its expansion, while Roberto González Barrera would eventually become one of Mexico’s most influential businessmen until his death in 2012.
Although the López Obrador administration was correct in stating that Mexico is largely self-sufficient in white corn production, much of the country’s industrial tortilla market depends on these two companies.

However, Minsa is chaired by businesswoman Altagracia Gómez, who also serves as an adviser to President Claudia Sheinbaum. The overlap between Gómez’s public advisory role and her leadership of one of Mexico’s largest corn flour companies has attracted public scrutiny, particularly as debates over corn policy and food sovereignty continue.

In 2025, Minsa received a government contract worth approximately 346 million pesos. At the same time, independent farmers have continued calling on federal authorities to help market roughly 700,000 tons of domestically produced white corn that remain difficult to sell at profitable prices.

How NAFTA Shaped Trade and Agricultural Abandonment
The struggle over corn is no longer simply about who grows it, but who controls its processing, pricing, and distribution. The United States-Mexico-Canada Agreement (USMCA), known in Mexico as the T-MEC, is the successor to the North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA), which entered into force in 1994. For many Mexican economists, the country’s growing dependence on imported grain started back then. While NAFTA dramatically reshaped trade across North America, its greatest emphasis fell on manufacturing industries such as the automotive sector. Mexican agriculture, many scholars argue, never occupied the same place in the negotiations.

The agreement was renegotiated at Washington’s request in 2017 and eventually replaced by the USMCA, which introduced updated provisions on labor rights, digital trade, and dispute settlement while preserving the region’s broader commitment to free trade.
Researchers at UNAM’s Institute for Economic Research argue that decades of public disinvestment in Mexican agriculture, driven by neoliberal economic policies that prioritized industrial and service sectors, gradually weakened domestic food production. In their view, the erosion of the countryside was not simply an economic consequence but a structural political choice, one that left Mexico increasingly dependent on agricultural imports despite corn’s central place in the country’s economy, culture, and diet.
Against that backdrop, the 2023 decree became far more than a disagreement over genetically modified corn. It evolved into a test of how far Mexico could go in protecting what it considers both a strategic crop and a cultural heritage while remaining bound by its international trade commitments.

Mexico’s dependence on imported yellow corn has grown steadily
If white corn largely remains a domestic crop tied to tortillas, yellow corn tells a very different story.

Mexico’s dependence on imported yellow corn has grown steadily since the implementation of NAFTA, with most imports now consisting of genetically modified grain produced in the United States. The vast majority is destined not for tortillas but for livestock feed and industrial uses.

That trade is dominated by multinational grain companies including Cargill, Archer Daniels Midland (ADM), Bartlett Grain, Scoular, and the Chinese state-owned giant COFCO. These firms purchase grain from American producers, import it through their Mexican subsidiaries, and sell it to the country’s largest livestock operations.
Together, they account for the overwhelming majority of the approximately 17.5 million metric tons of yellow corn imported annually from the United States, according to Mexico’s Agricultural Markets Consulting Group (GCMA).

Even so, Mexico then imports roughly 650,000 metric tons of white corn each year. According to La Jornada, much of that grain is purchased by Maseca and Minsa for direct human consumption through the flour industry. Critics argue that industrial corn flour may not provide the same nutritional and culinary qualities as tortillas made from freshly nixtamalized native corn. The debate, however, extends beyond nutrition. It also centers on the long-term health effects of consuming genetically modified corn, as well as the environmental consequences of introducing transgenic varieties into Mexico’s centers of origin.

Why Is It Important to Keep Reexamining Mexico’s Anti-GMO Policy?
Ana Wegier, a researcher at the Botanical Garden of UNAM’s Institute of Biology, has warned in an op-ed published by Nexos magazine that genetically modified seeds and pollen can spread easily and mix with wild plants and native varieties despite existing restrictions.

“Today, unauthorized transgenes exist in the centers of origin of corn and cotton, and they are virtually impossible to remove,” she explains, shedding light on Mexico’s seemingly unwavering position on genetically modified organisms and corn.

At the same time, advances in biotechnology—including techniques such as CRISPR-Cas9—make it possible to explore gene editing without necessarily introducing DNA from an unrelated species. This approach could increase corn’s protein content, beneficial compounds, and vitamin levels. It is perhaps the kind of tool our ancestors would have wanted as they worked toward developing the best possible corn varieties.

One of the expert opinions submitted during the dispute came from Michael Antoniou, professor of Molecular Genetics and Toxicology at King’s College London. In his report, Antoniou argued that Mexico’s dietary patterns warranted a different level of scrutiny than those typically considered by U.S. regulators.

Because corn constitutes a much larger share of the Mexican diet and is frequently consumed in minimally processed forms such as tortillas, he suggested that potential exposure to glyphosate residues, pesticides, and transgenic proteins could be substantially higher than in the United States.

Antoniou also noted that directly testing these potential risks in humans would be ethically impossible, making long-term animal feeding studies particularly important. He cited research reporting adverse effects in some genetically modified corn feeding trials, while acknowledging that the interpretation of those findings remains the subject of scientific debate. His report ultimately argued that the available evidence justified applying the precautionary principle in countries like Mexico, where corn is consumed daily as a staple food rather than as a minor ingredient.
Wegier and other researchers emphasize that Indigenous farmers have developed extraordinary maize diversity through selective breeding over thousands of years, without reliance on herbicide-resistant transgenic systems.

Ultimately, the debate over genetically modified corn is about much more than agriculture. It asks who will determine the future of one of Mexico’s oldest inheritances: Indigenous communities who have cultivated native varieties for millennia, farmers struggling to remain competitive, multinational grain companies, industrial flour producers, or governments negotiating international trade agreements. In Mexico, corn has never been just a crop. It is culture, identity, livelihood, and sovereignty.

Estefanía Camacho is a freelance Mexican journalist working across media and digital magazines. She is a specialist in gender, SMEs, economics, and business.

Poultry in Mexico

By Marcia Chaiken and Jan Chaiken—

When we are in Mexico, we rely on poultry as our primary source of land-based protein, as do most Mexican nationals. Although living in coastal Oaxaca is virtually synonymous with having delicious fish dinners, many traditional dishes use poultry – especially chicken (pollo) as a primary ingredient. Others require turkey, quail, duck, or other domesticated birds for regional or holiday treats.

Chickens are not indigenous to Mexico but were introduced by the Spanish settlers in the early 16th century. Some of the varieties farmed in Mexico today are related to the earliest chickens introduced to the Aztecs and Mayans. Today Mexicans consume, on average, 35 kilograms (77 pounds) of chicken each year. Given the relatively large number of chickens one sees running around Mexican villages or hears clucking away in city backyard coops, one might mistakenly assume that preparation of most chicken dinners here begins with chasing down a free-range fowl on the fly. Perhaps that once was so, but today most chickens and eggs are produced by three large corporations on large-scale farms strategically located around the country. So a chicken meal preparation most often begins with a trip to a supermarket or local store.

Whether at home or in restaurants, you have a choice of a myriad of chicken preparations. The favorite of millions of people is caldo—a rich, hearty chicken soup. There are restaurants all over Mexico that specialize in caldo, and although we frequently prepare large batches at home and freeze portions for emergency meals when we or friends are under the weather, in Mexico it is easier to swing by a caldo take-out restaurant for freshly made soup. Another ubiquitous type of chicken is pollo asado, grilled chicken. Mexican restaurants lure in patrons by grilling chicken right outside their entrance; one’s nose takes in the delicious smell of garlic, onions, chiles and other spices cooking in chicken fat, and the rest of their body follows their nose and watering mouth indoors. At home, the easiest preparation requires only a chicken, spices that are family favorites, and an asador (grill).

More chicken dishes we’ve relished over the past decades include chicken in tacos, tostadas, enchiladas, tamales, tlayudas, sopes, omelets and quesadillas. But our very favorites are the many types of moles with chicken. Whether mole negro (black), amarillo (yellow), coloradito (red) or verde (green), small pieces of chicken are primarily eaten as a vehicle for carrying the rich mole sauce from the plate to the tongue and slowly savored to enjoy the mix of multiple ingredients in the mole.

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Turkeys (pavo or guajolote), unlike chickens, are indigenous to Mexico. Both Mayans and Aztecs domesticated and raised turkeys long before the Spanish invaded. The Spanish, who had never seen a turkey since there were none on the European continent, were quickly converted to eating turkey. In addition to tomatoes, which also weren’t known in Europe, turkeys were crated and traveled to Spain on returning ships. The European turkey market flourished, and the breeders produced a line that was introduced back in the “New World” and became the forebears of the turkey found in U.S. and Canadian supermarkets today.

The first time we tasted turkey in Mexico was in centro (downtown) Cancun in a restaurant frequented by the workers who provided services in the affluent hotels on the isle just off the coast. The restaurant was noted by the locals for its turkey dishes – prepared in the same ways the Mayans had used for centuries. These included pavo pibil (turkey marinated in citrus sauce and achiote paste and wrapped and roasted in banana leaves) and pavo relleno negro (turkey simmered in a jet-black broth seasoned with fired chiles and other local spices).

We greatly enjoyed the rich gamey taste of the bird and found out that these turkeys were closely related to those originally domesticated by the Mayans. Although they are still raised on the Yucatan peninsula, the very few turkey farms throughout the country are more likely to raise turkeys introduced from the U.S. via Europe. Most of the year, Mexicans do not consume a lot of turkey. For the past 10 years, turkey farms in Mexico have steadily produced a total of 8,461 metric tons of turkey meat, compared to 3.8 million metric tons of chicken. Except in the Yucatan peninsula where turkey is a year-round treat, turkey in the rest of Mexico is generally a part of holiday meals. Since the demand soars at holiday time beyond the capability of the Mexican turkey farms to meet the need, turkeys are largely imported from the United States.

Other Birds Eaten in Mexico: Quail, Duck, and Chachalaca

Three other birds—quail, duck, and chachalaca—are consumed in Mexico in much smaller quantities than chicken. Mexico has more varieties of quail than any other country in the world. Although they have long been hunted and used in Mexican cuisine, quail farms are now an emerging industry in the Yucatan Peninsula. These tiny succulent birds, codorniz, are often found as starter dishes in the most expensive and loudly lauded restaurants in Mexico City, including Pujol and Maximo, and as delicious but pricey add-ons in barbecue restaurants in tourist areas around the country. We first sampled codorniz many years ago at Finca de Vaqueros in Pochutla and were glad when the restaurant opened a branch serving it in Huatulco.

Duck (pato) is raised in small numbers in the state of Jalisco. It is far from a common dish and is presented as gourmet offerings such as pato en mole and pato carnitas. Most of the restaurants in Mexico offering duck are Asian restaurants or fusion Mexican-Asian restaurants (using tortillas instead of Asian pancakes). Of course the top French restaurants in Mexico City include duck a l’orange on their menus. But if you’re from north of the border, you might just wait until you’re home to order duck, since most of the duck served in restaurants in Mexico is imported from there anyway.

Chachalacas are those extremely noisy birds that look like turkeys and parade past your seaside windows early in the morning. To our knowledge they are never served in restaurants nor are they available in markets. In some communities, chachalacas have traditionally been hunted or raised for food, subject to wildlife regulations. Supposedly they taste like turkey. If you are invited by a friend for a chachalaca meal, please do send us a post reviewing your experience. If you, like us, never have that experience, please enjoy the rest of the poultry in Mexico.

Drs. Marcia and Jan Chaiken have been married for 62 years and have published many justice system research reports together.

 

Art as a Philosophy of Nature Conservation

By José Palacios y Román—

The Escola d’Arts Aplicades Massana, approaching its centenary, remains a beacon of avant-garde experimentation and critical thinking. Founded in 1929 by the philanthropist Agustí Massana, this Center for Art and Design operates on the premise that “doing is thinking,” fostering innovation across visual arts, design, and applied arts. It was within these historic workshops in Plaça Gardunya—situated in the heart of Barcelona’s Raval neighborhood—that Monse Pla, who also creates under the name Marta Terceño, forged her artistic foundation.

Driven by a global perspective, Pla has exhibited her work across England, Italy, Sweden, Belgium, France, and Spain. Her creative evolution has been shaped by extensive travels through Asia, the United States, and Mexico. Her work resides within the realm of lyrical abstraction, deeply anchored in the natural world; trees, the sea, and shifting skies serve as both her recurring motifs and her primary creative catalysts.

Her watercolors possess a magical, ephemeral, and spiritual quality. Her subtle brushstrokes evoke pure light—appearing closer to vanishing air than to solid pigment. In the presence of her work, the physical canvas seems to dissipate, revealing a sensory energy that transcends mere visual perception. As boundaries, lines, and rigid contours dissolve, viewers are invited to look beyond the surface, transcending the paint itself to experience a deeper, almost transcendental dimension.

In celebration of this vision, Art Gallery Copalli in Huatulco is proud to host Monse Pla (Marta Terceño) for a semester-long artist residency.

The upcoming program includes:
Vital Art Workshop: A masterclass for local artists, held on Saturday, August 1, and Sunday, August 2.

Art & Fine Dining Gala: A showcase of her most recent work, hosted at the Quinta Real Boutique Hotel on Friday, August 7, at 7:00 PM.

Retrospective Exhibition: A major retrospective spanning her work since 2000, opening on December 4, at 6:00 PM at Art Gallery Copalli, Huatulco.

In a reflection from her Italian exhibition catalogue, she once noted: “It is nature that reveals itself within us through the mastery and naturalness of the brushstrokes; the shimmering reflections, the light on the water, the nuances of the sky merging with the sea, and the trees tracing a path for the spirit.”

We welcome the artist with great enthusiasm and profound appreciation, furthering Art Gallery Copalli’s commitment to building synergy within Huatulco’s creative community.

The Sacred Kernel: A 10,000-Year Dialogue with Oaxacan Maize

By Nancy Reyes—

Mexico is often misunderstood by those looking in from the outside. For many, the country exists as a postcard: bright colors, mariachis on every corner, sombreros, tequila, and an endless fiesta. This image has become so exaggerated that it often borders on parody, reducing a land of immense depth to a handful of clichés. But as we at The Eye strive to show, the reality is much more layered. To truly understand the soul of Mexico—and specifically the enduring spirit of Oaxaca—one must look past the surface of the sun-drenched beaches and into the steaming clay pots of its kitchens. There, you will find the absolute foundation of daily life: corn.

If we trace the history of the peoples of this region by the domestication of maize 10,000 years ago, we would see a culture that spent millennia as Zapotec, Mixe, or Nahua long before the concept of “Indian” or “Indigenous” was imposed by colonial hierarchies. This is not just a crop; it is a living expression of geography, agriculture, and tradition. To understand why corn is considered sacred, one must look at the ancient stories that still resonate in the collective memory of the land.

The Legend of Corn: Quetzalcoatl’s Ingenuity

Before the arrival of the Spanish, according to an Aztec legend, the people fed only on the roots of plants and the animals they managed to hunt each day. Their greatest desire was to eat corn, but the golden grain grew hidden behind high, steep mountains that were impossible to cross.

The people begged the gods for help. Many of the deities, wanting to show their power, tried to separate the gigantic mountains using brute strength. They pushed and pulled with all their might, but the peaks would not budge. Time passed, and the people grew desperate. They turned to the great god Quetzalcoatl, begging him to find a way to reach the corn so they could make food to sustain their children.

Quetzalcoatl, unlike the other gods, did not want to rely on strength alone. He was a god of intelligence and ingenuity. He watched the mountains and noticed the tiny creatures that moved through the smallest crevices. To the amazement of the people, Quetzalcoatl transformed himself into a small black ant.

Without wasting a moment, he invited a red ant to accompany him on the arduous journey. For days, the two tiny insects climbed the steep, jagged slopes until they reached the snowy summit. Exhausted but determined, they descended the other side, and there they found them: the golden ears of corn the people so longed for.

They approached the most appetizing ear and extracted a single yellow kernel. Together, they began the return journey, holding the sun-colored grain firmly in their tiny mandibles. The return was even more exhausting; the load was incredibly heavy for their small bodies, and their legs buckled with every step. Yet, they refused to lose that precious cargo.

When they finally arrived back, breathless and nearly crawling, the Aztecs welcomed them with a great celebration. Quetzalcoatl gave the grain of corn to the people who rushed to plant it with immense care. In a short time, the first plant sprouted, followed by many others that eventually populated the fields. From then on, the Aztecs were able to feed their children, who grew up healthy and strong. In gratitude, they began to worship Quetzalcoatl, who became their most beloved god for all time.

The Marvel of the Tortilla

This legend mirrors a deeper truth: the survival of the Mexican people has always depended on a symbiotic relationship with nature. For thousands of years, indigenous communities refined maize varieties adapted to the region’s unique climates and soils. But the true brilliance lies in the ancient technological achievement known as nixtamalization.

By soaking the dried corn in an alkaline solution (usually water mixed with lime or wood ash) before grinding it into masa, ancient cultures transformed a simple grain into a far more nutritious and sustaining food. This process makes niacin more bioavailable, increases calcium, and improves the nutritional value of the corn. From this masa comes the tortilla, the foundation of daily life throughout Mexico.

Visitors to Oaxaca are often surprised by the sensory shift of a true handmade tortilla. Unlike the uniform, flattened versions found in supermarkets, fresh masa pressed and cooked on a hot comal produces a tortilla that puffs slightly, releasing a warm, toasted aroma of the earth itself. It is a small, quiet moment that reveals how deeply food and culture are intertwined.

This commitment to the land is also reflected in a philosophy of wasting nothing. Leftover tortillas are not discarded; they are transformed into chilaquiles, a beloved breakfast dish where corn chips (totopos) are coated in salsa and topped with cream and cheese. It is a celebration of creativity and respect for what we already have.

In Mexico, we have a beloved saying: “Panza llena, corazón contento”—a full belly makes for a happy heart. As you navigate the diverse and complex flavors of our region, I hope you discover more than just a meal. May you leave with a deeper appreciation for the land, the people, and the traditions that continue to shape Oaxaca today.

Nancy Reyes is a writer, teacher, and passionate advocate of Mexican culture.

Nancy’s Top Three Places to Eat
To help you navigate this rich landscape, here are my personal recommendations for a meaningful culinary connection in our region:

El Sabor de Oaxaca (La Crucecita, Huatulco) Located just off the main square, this family-run restaurant has been a trusted bridge to authentic flavors since 1994. It is my favorite spot for a traditional meal where the heritage of Oaxaca is served with pride. Whether you are trying their deep, dark mole or handmade tortillas, you are tasting a story of consistency and local love.

Entre Tierras (Huatulco) For those seeking deeper immersion, I recommend this intimate 8-course culinary adventure. Each course is crafted by Chef Jane Bauer using local ingredients shaped by the seasons. Held on Friday nights at the Chiles & Chocolate Cooking School, this dinner is not just a meal; it is a quiet story of land, labor, and migration. http://www.entretierrashuatulco.com

Casa Semilla (Pluma Hidalgo) When the coastal heat builds and you need a change of pace, head an hour up into the mountains to Pluma Hidalgo. Start your day at Casa Semilla, a community hub known for its freshly roasted high-altitude coffee and healthy meals made with local ingredients. Their commitment to disability inclusion and nourishment makes every bite feel like part of a larger, positive movement in the Sierra Madre del Sur.

A Day at Playa San Agustín: Snorkeling, Seafood & Beach Snacks

By Julie Etra—

San Agustín has long been our favorite beach for snorkeling, watching marine life, and lingering over an early seafood lunch. It’s one of the few places where spending the entire day feels effortless. You can get there by driving: it is 13 km from the turnoff just west of the airport. The road in April 2026 remained partially paved with ‘washboard’ surface in some areas but nothing intimidating and I am fine driving it alone. One can also hire a taxi but make sure you negotiate a round-trip fare and time as you are unlikely to find one-way service given its location. Phone service is intermittent or nonexistent depending on your plan, and although Wi-Fi is available for 50 pesos, power outages are common. You can also take a water taxi or sign up with one on the larger tour boats.

We follow the tides, although this reef is not as shallow as Playa La Entrega, or Riscalillo, so avoiding low tides is not as critical. Our now favorite restaurant was selected for its location, structure, and amenities, being a bit east of the more congested palapas closer to the reef, and with the high roof providing great ventilation and spectacular views from the second story. Shade for the car, showers and bathrooms are additional benefits. And food? Our limited dining experience at three different restaurants at this bay led us to believe that the menus are pretty similar, so this was a minor factor in selecting this particular palapa.

The extensive menu features seafood and fish (surprise!) in various shapes, forms, and flavors. Fish is prepared in a variety of ways such as: a la diabla (guajillo, pasilla, and chiles de árbol), a la plancha (on the grill), in mojo de ajo (sauteed in butter and garlic), and a la talla (butterflied with spices). Dorado (mahi mahi), corvina (corvina rayada), barillete (skipjack), and mojarra are typically available, but ask first. The mojarra served here is often farm-raised tilapia, which I find pretty flavorless. Don’t forget langosta (Mexican lobster, which lacks the claws of its Atlantic relative), or huachinango (red snapper), cooked whole with all the garnishes, a large meal for several people. Shrimp dishes include cocktails, which are a bit sweet since the cocktail sauce is prepared with ketchup, and large shrimp salads accompanied with sliced avocado and tomato.

Aguachile is similar to ceviche but is marinated for less time and is typically made with shrimp rather than fish. This is my favorite restaurant dish. Guacamole, black beans, and rice are all standard fare. All orders come with a basket of tostadas, saltines, and a variety of bottled salsas. Don’t forget to ask for the salsa casera, homemade and fresh in addition to the pico de gallo accompanying your order. Pulpo, or octopus, is also on the menu, but I can’t bear to eat these highly intelligent cephalopods. There are a few meat dishes, such as arrachera (flank steak), but nope—you won’t find hamburgers or hot dogs.

When we first started frequenting the palapa restaurants we were surprised by the indifference of the owners and staff to the beach vendors passing along the perimeter. This is carefully controlled, with all vendors requiring licenses, and only entering the premises with the permission of the owners. Vendors offer a variety of wares and souvenirs, from wooden spoons and other wood carvings, to T-shirts, hats, bathing suits, jewelry, and keychains. Services, such as massages, trenzas (braiding) and temporary tattoos are available. We have never found the vendors to be overly aggressive at San Agustín as opposed to those in Los Cabos, from which we fled 18 years ago.

And FOOD. There are the cacahuate (peanut) vendors, pepita (pumpkin seeds) vendors, paletas (popsicles), bolis (icy fruit treats), pay de queso (cheese pie), pay de elote (cornbread) from the Isthmus of Tehuantepec, tamales, elote (corn on the cob, Mexican style), platanos fritos (fried bananas) with lechera y/o crema (condensed milk and/or cream) and coffee. Ostiones (oysters) on the half shell, a half or full dozen, and even on occasion mejillones (mussels), harvested fresh and locally, are frequently offered.

My all-time favorite beach snacks—a close tie with the plátanos fritos—are the molotes. These are deep-fried mashed plantains shaped into pastry-like parcels and filled with either cream cheese (aka Philadelphia) to appease the tourists, or more traditionally with quesillo, the tasty Oaxacan cheese. Delicious and filling, order them with lechera and crema, and enjoy the extra sweetness.

The Avocado Controversy

By Alicia Flores—

Few foods have enjoyed a rise to global fame quite like the avocado. Once a regional staple in Mexico and Central America, it is now celebrated worldwide on toast, in smoothies, salads, and of course, guacamole. Rich in healthy fats, fiber, and vitamins, it has earned the title of a modern superfood. But behind its creamy green flesh lies a more complicated story.

Mexico produces nearly one-third of the world’s avocados, with the state of Michoacán supplying most of the fruit exported to the United States and Canada. The industry’s success has brought prosperity to many farming communities, creating thousands of jobs and generating billions of dollars in export revenue. Yet the avocado boom has also created unexpected challenges.

As international demand has soared, forests have been cleared to make room for new orchards, threatening biodiversity and reducing habitat for species such as the monarch butterfly. Avocados are also a thirsty crop, requiring significant amounts of water in regions where water resources are already under pressure.

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Perhaps the greatest controversy, however, is economic. The enormous value of the crop has attracted organized crime in parts of Mexico, where criminal groups have been known to extort growers, control transportation routes, and profit from the lucrative trade. These security concerns have occasionally disrupted exports and prompted increased government oversight.

For consumers, these realities can create mixed feelings. Buying Mexican avocados supports the livelihoods of thousands of honest farmers who depend on the industry, yet it also raises important questions about environmental stewardship, water use, and the need for stronger protections against criminal exploitation.

Like many foods that become global commodities, the avocado is neither entirely hero nor villain. It represents the opportunities and challenges of modern agriculture in an interconnected world.

Appreciating the fruit also means recognizing the people, landscapes, and complex issues behind every harvest—and understanding that the future of avocados depends not only on consumer demand, but on producing them in ways that are sustainable, transparent, and fair.

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Holy Guacamole: The Unexpected History of the Avocado

By Randy Jackson—

I’ve always known avocados to be cool. I have this memory of hearing an interview with John Lennon in which he was asked if he had tried them. I also happen to know when I first tasted them: 1986 at the World’s Fair in Vancouver, British Columbia. My own avocado story, however, is just a speck of dust compared with the fruit’s remarkable history.

Hip But Not New
Avocados are a fruit, and like most fruits, their survival has historically depended on the digestive systems of animals. Evolution’s system of seed dispersal is simple: an animal eats the flesh, carries the seed in its intestines, and deposits it elsewhere with a little natural fertilizer. But what kind of creature could swallow an avocado pit whole? Something big. Really big. Prehistorically big. Scientists have suggested that extinct megafauna, possibly including giant ground sloths and gomphotheres (prehistoric, trunked relatives of modern elephants), may once have dispersed avocado seeds. When these giant animals disappeared at the end of the last Ice Age, humans gradually took over the role of cultivating and spreading avocado trees.
By the time the Spanish Conquistadors arrived, there were already cultivated avocado orchards. The Aztec/Nahuatl word for the fruit was āhuacatl, which also happened to be slang for testicle. The Spanish mispronounced this as aguacate, which English speakers eventually warped into avocado.

But there were still centuries to go before the millennial breakfast of avocado toast was born. It took a California mail carrier accidentally cultivating the dark-skinned avocado most of us are familiar with today to truly change the game.

The Hass Accident
Rudolph Hass was a Milwaukee-born son of German immigrants. As a high school dropout seeking his fortune, he worked many jobs before becoming a mailman in Pasadena, California. Around that time, the Los Angeles Times ran an article about “the hanging gardens of Southern California,” noting that avocados could be grown on steep slopes where ordinary crops couldn’t. One magazine ad even featured dollar bills growing on avocado trees. So, in 1925, Rudolph bought into that dream by emptying his savings and borrowing money from his sister to acquire a 1.5-acre piece of land. Unable to afford established trees, he bought a handful of random seeds to start his own avocado grove, accidentally planting one that changed culinary history.

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Rudolph quickly learned what every avocado grower knows: no two avocado trees produce the exact same fruit. Like a genetic lottery, any tree might bear watery, stringy, worthless fruit. The only way to reliably reproduce the variety you actually want is to graft a new tree from a cutting of a tree with desirable avocados. That was as true in Rudolph’s time as it is today.

The desirable avocado at the time was known as the Fuerte, a fruit proven able to withstand California’s cold snaps. Originally from Puebla, Mexico, it was the variety every grower wanted, and California growers grafted all their trees with a branch from a Fuerte tree. This, too, Rudolph Hass attempted to do. But one tree wouldn’t accept the graft and instead produced black, bumpy-skinned fruit. Rudolph’s children preferred the fruit from this rebellious tree, calling them the “ugly avocados.” They had a higher oil content and a richer, creamier flavour. This was the Hass avocado, which today dominates the international commercial avocado market.

Ripening and Marketing
Not yet, not yet, not yet… TOO LATE. This is the sentiment of most people looking to find a ripe avocado. Like all hip things, whether people or produce, the avocado is kind of a snob. It will not ripen while hanging from a branch and will just sit there for a year or more, unchanged. The avocado only begins to ripen once picked, and even then, it isn’t done making you wait.

For growers, the avocado tree is like a living warehouse. Once picked, though, the ripening clock starts, and timing becomes everything. This on-branch storage helps meet calendar-based demand, chief among them American Super Bowl parties, which would be incomplete without guacamole. In fact, the combined demand for guacamole around the Super Bowl, Cinco de Mayo, and the Fourth of July produces some of the largest spikes in U.S. avocado consumption.

But whether for guacamole or other culinary delights, nobody wants an unripe or overripe avocado. Because of this, there is a highly orchestrated process for getting an avocado to your grocery store in a state you’d actually be willing to pay three bucks for.
Once picked, they are chilled within hours to dramatically slow the ripening process. This allows up to four weeks for cold transport to reach grocery store distribution centers. The final ripening stage is then triggered by exposure to ethylene gas at the distribution center, ensuring the avocado reaches your grocery store primed to hit perfect ripeness within about a week.

Which leaves the last, most familiar stretch: standing in the produce section, squeezing avocado after avocado, divining each one’s readiness to eat. One final avocado factoid: once you get it home, putting it in the fridge will slow its final ripening by 80% to 90% compared to leaving it on the counter. Right to the end, the avocado does what it wants, when it wants.

The Millennial Breakfast
For me and many of my non-Mexican contemporaries, the avocado was unheard of until adulthood, arriving essentially when it became more widely available to North American consumers. Interestingly, its modern worldwide popularity has a lot to do with Australia, which is about as far from its historical Mexican origins as you can get. Australians actually originated the hippest avocado terms: smashed avo, smavo, avocado toast, and the Millennial breakfast.

Avocado toast gained mainstream popularity when Australian restaurateur Bill Granger introduced smashed avocado on toast at his Sydney café in 1993. He later included the recipe in one of his cookbooks, and it is widely regarded as the first published recipe for the now-iconic dish.

Gwyneth Paltrow raised its profile further with a recipe in her 2013 cookbook, and food bloggers and Instagram did the rest. Avocado toast got permanently tied to Millennials in 2016, when an Australian newspaper column went viral scolding young people for ordering $22 smashed avocado on toast instead of saving for a house deposit. This meme permanently solidified avocado toast as the definitive Millennial breakfast.

Hardly an early adopter, I had my first avocado toast years later in Huatulco, inadvertently bringing my personal avocado history full circle back to its Mexican roots. And how fitting that, as I finish writing this story from cooler northern lands, far from the nearest avocado tree, I’m happily munching on smavo on a toasted bagel for breakfast.

Randy Jackson blends local reporting from the perspective of a seasonal Huatulco resident with explorations of life and change in Huatulco, Oaxaca and Mexico. Email: box95jackson@gmail.com

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Editor’s Letter

By Jane Bauer—

“Each food item in a typical U.S. meal has traveled an average of 1,500 miles….If every U.S. citizen ate just one meal a week (any meal) composed of locally and organically raised meats and produce we would reduce our country’s oil consumption by over 1.1 million barrels of oil every week.”
― Barbara Kingsolver, Animal, Vegetable, Miracle: A Year of Food Life

I live in a small village with a public address system where you still hear announcements like, “La señora Martínez tiene pollo a la venta.” These days there are fewer loudspeaker messages because most have moved to our community WhatsApp group. A typical post reads: “Hola, buen día. Ya les tengo a la venta los ricos tamales de frijol y chepil en el domicilio de la señora Mendoza.” It’s simply letting the neighborhood know that fresh tamales are ready and waiting at someone’s home.

Mexico is full of pop food stands. People sell bolis, sliced fruit, tacos, tamales, homemade bread, roasted chickens, and countless other foods. Economists call this the informal economy, but there is a misconception that “informal” means unregulated. As a restaurant owner, people often ask me whether businesses here need permits or pay taxes, as though selling food in Mexico is free from the bureaucracy found in the United States or Canada. It isn’t. Even street food vendors are typically required to obtain permits, licenses, and food safety training. What sets Mexico apart is not the absence of regulation—it is that we have not completely corporatized our food system.

This past May I was hiking the North Carolina section of the Appalachian Trail. The forest was magnificent, and there is no better way to reconnect with nature. But every time I left the trail to resupply, I was struck by how many hikers—and local residents—relied almost entirely on processed food. Frozen meals, convenience stores, and an endless parade of fast-food restaurants lining the highways have become the default way to eat.

The numbers are hard to ignore. The United States has an estimated 180,000 to 210,000 corporate fast-food restaurants, compared with just 35,000 to 45,000 in Mexico. McDonald’s alone has 13,706 U.S. locations, compared with only 380 in Mexico, more than 36 times as many.

Recently, I drove nearly 900 kilometers from Huatulco to San Miguel de Allende. Do you know how many corporate fast-food restaurants I passed? Not one.

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That contrast matters. The recent U.S. Cyclospora outbreak, linked to contaminated shredded lettuce and affecting more than 1,600 people across over 30 states, illustrates the vulnerability of highly centralized food systems. When a single supplier distributes food across an entire country, one contamination event can quickly become a national public health crisis. Efficiency and scale have their advantages, but they also create fragility.

A few weeks ago I watched a social media video of a woman planting dried beans from a bag of mixed bean soup. The comments were filled with people insisting it was illegal to grow them. Whether or not those claims were true almost didn’t matter—the instinctive assumption was that growing your own food had somehow become suspect.

So the next time you see someone selling fresh food from a cart, a folding table, or the front of their home, recognize that they are preserving something valuable. Every tamale, taco, loaf of bread, and bag of fresh fruit represents a food system that is local, decentralized, and deeply human. Plant a garden. Buy from your neighbors. Skip the drive-through. Real food, sold by real people, is more than a meal; it is a quiet act of revolution.

See you in October,

Jane

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