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San Miguel de Allende

The Sweetest Adventure: Exploring the Best Bakeries in San Miguel

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By Michael Solof—

San Miguel de Allende is a haven for food lovers, especially those with a sweet tooth. As you wander the streets, the air is often filled with the aroma of freshly baked bread and pastries. It can make you stop in your tracks and search for the source of those incredible smells.

But have you ever wondered about the origins of these delicious treats? The city’s bakery culture is steeped in history and shaped by a strong French influence.

A Brief History of Bakeries: From France to San Miguel
Modern pastry traditions owe much to French baking from the 19th century. French bakers revolutionized the craft, introducing techniques that produced flaky pastries, crusty breads, and delicate desserts that quickly spread around the world.

As these methods reached Mexico, local bakers adapted them using regional ingredients such as cinnamon, chocolate, and corn. The result was a unique culinary fusion that combined European technique with Mexican flavor.

Over time, bakeries became more than places to buy bread. They evolved into community gathering spots where locals and visitors meet for coffee, conversation, and something sweet. Today, many establishments celebrate both Mexican holidays and European traditions, reflecting the rich cultural blend that defines San Miguel’s food scene.

My Six Favorite Bakeries in San Miguel
It was a tough choice, but these six stand out as personal favorites.

1. La Colmena Panadería (The Blue Door Bakery)
Relox 21
Open 7 days a week, hours vary

Founded in 1901, La Colmena is one of the oldest bakeries in the city. Known for traditional Mexican favorites such as conchas and pan de muerto, it has preserved its charm and authenticity for more than a century.

Warm and welcoming, La Colmena is a favorite meeting place for locals seeking a perfect pairing of coffee and something sweet. Its rustic setting reflects the long culinary heritage of the neighborhood.

2. Panadería La Antigua
Umarán 36
8am–10pm, Closed Wednesdays

At Panadería La Antigua traditional baking methods are the focus. Established in the late 1990s, it specializes in artisan breads made with local ingredients and time-honored recipes.

Its reputation for quality attracts both residents and visitors. In addition to sourdoughs and baguettes, the shop offers regional specialties, and its tortillas are among the most popular items. The space frequently features local artwork and community gatherings.

3. San Sebastián Panadería
Calzada de la Aurora 24
9am–10pm, Closed Sundays

A neighborhood favorite since the early 2000s, San Sebastián offers a wide range of baked goods based on family recipes passed down through generations.

From classic pastries to cakes and cookies, the selection changes with the seasons. The welcoming atmosphere and personal service make it a popular destination for birthdays, celebrations, and everyday indulgence.

4. Panadería El Maple
Salida a Celaya 53
8am–7:30pm, closed Sundays

Since opening in 2010, El Maple has built a reputation for creativity in the kitchen. Traditional Mexican recipes meet contemporary twists in items like chocolate croissants filled with locally sourced ingredients.

The bakery emphasizes sustainability, often purchasing ingredients from nearby farms and hosting workshops that teach baking with seasonal produce. Its modern style attracts a younger crowd eager for inventive flavors.

5. Bakery Sucré
Colegio Militar 3
8am–3pm

Sucré focuses on French-inspired pastries while incorporating local ingredients. Macarons, éclairs, and tarts share the display case with desserts flavored with coconut, mango, and other regional touches.

Known for its elegant presentation, Sucré has become a favorite destination for celebrations and special occasions. The refined interior reflects its French inspiration, creating a lovely setting for enjoying coffee and a pastry.

6. Marulier Luciérnaga
Two locations – Plaza Luciérnaga, Lib. José Manuel Zavala 165, and Ancha de San Antonio 121
8am–10pm

One of the newer additions to the local bakery scene, Marulier focuses on organic, gluten-free, and vegan offerings. Its gluten-free brownies and organic breads have quickly gained a loyal following.

Workshops and classes encourage customers to explore healthier approaches to baking and cooking. Bright interiors and eco-friendly practices make both locations welcoming spaces for the community.

How to Best Enjoy These Bakeries
Together, these establishments form an important part of San Miguel’s culinary landscape. They blend Mexican tradition with European technique while serving as gathering places for the community.

My favorite way to experience them? A bakery crawl.

Exploring several bakeries in one afternoon is a delicious adventure. Each stop offers new flavors, stories, and specialties. Whether you’re savoring a flaky croissant or enjoying a slice of tres leches cake, every bite reflects the rich cultural influences that shape the city’s food scene.

So grab some friends, lace up comfortable shoes, and set out on a sweet exploration of San Miguel. With so many tempting options along the way, you might just wish for a second—or even a third—stomach.
Happy munching!

Michael Solof leads SMA Adventure Hound, a group that takes locals and newcomers to brunches and dinners at different restaurants every week. He also offers classes in the Art of Smartphone Photography. You can contact him via WhatsApp +1-443-310-9214 for more info and to reserve.

San Miguel de Allende

Healthy and delicious dining in San Miguel

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By Michael Solof

San Miguel de Allende isn’t just about the colorful buildings and lively streets—it’s turning into a solid spot for healthy eating too. More folks are paying attention to what they eat, and the restaurants here have stepped up with fresh ingredients and menus that work for different diets. Whether you’re vegan, avoiding gluten, or just want something lighter, there are excellent choices available around town.

Spots range from laid-back to a bit more polished, so you might find yourself eating in a quiet garden, on a sunny patio, or at a shared table where the vibe feels easy and welcoming. Here are a few standouts for healthy dining in San Miguel de Allende. Each one has its own style but sticks to quality ingredients so the food not only tastes good but is also good for you. Locals and visitors alike keep coming back to these places time and time again for a reason.

RUSTICA – Salida a Celaya 34
Everyday 8am – 5pm

Rustica is one of those places that gets healthy eating right. I went for the breakfast bowl and lentil soup last time, and both were full of flavor without any heavy seasoning. They let the ingredients do the talking, which is nice. The green juice was fresh and gave me a good boost to start the day.

The space feels calm from the second you walk in—like a quiet garden with all sorts of beautiful plants around. The front patio is fine even if you’re near the street, but the back one is especially nice when the weather cooperates. It’s peaceful without being too isolated. The staff is friendly and on top of things. They make you feel at home right away and are great at keeping everything running smooth and relaxed.

They have plenty of plant-based and gluten-free dishes, and you see people ordering breakfast tacos or smoothies that look just as fresh. The menu covers a lot, from breakfast sandwiches to mole eggs, and prices stay reasonable for the quality. It’s easy to understand why this spot stays busy. If you’re after a healthy breakfast or lunch in a chill setting, Rustica is a reliable pick. It’s definitely one of my favorite places to take visitors.

NÉCTAR – Correo 43
Wednesday-Sunday 8:30-4:30pm

Nectar has become a popular hot spot for people looking for healthy meals. The place mixes a cozy indoor area with loads of beautiful artwork, with a nice outdoor patio, so it feels inviting no matter where you sit. The menu works for vegetarians, vegans, and anyone gluten-free. I liked the roasted vegetable omelette—it came with delicious potatoes on the side—and the mini tamales were a fun, satisfying option. They do creative things like Earl Grey-infused black beans or chilaquiles with sesame, keeping things lighter but still tasty. Desserts like chocolate cake are worth saving room for, and portions are generous.

The helpful staff will suggest dishes if you need ideas. They‘ve never made a bad suggestion in all the times I’ve visited. While you wait, you can check out the gift shop with home decor and glass hummingbird feeders. It adds a little extra to the visit.

Nectar is about the whole experience: solid food, a relaxed spot, and friendly people. It’s great for breakfast or lunch, and it quickly becomes one of those places you’ll want to revisit again and again.

OJO DE AGUA – The Corner of Correo and Portal de Guadalupe, near the Jardin – hours vary, check locally.

Ojo de Agua sits close to the Parroquia and Jardin, making it an easy stop when you’re out walking. The inner courtyard is a peaceful break from the bustle, with plants, swinging hammocks and nature sounds all around.

The menu focuses on fresh, simple dishes. I had chilaquiles and avocado toast, both made with really good ingredients that let the flavors stand out. Friends tried the matcha tea cakes with ricotta, and tuna tacos—everything came out perfectly. They have lots of vegan-friendly and lighter options, plus made-to-order juices and smoothies. It’s one of the best juice places in SMA!

The quesadillas are another solid choice, showing how they turn basic ingredients into something filling. The garden seating, including swings, gives it a fun, relaxed feel. It’s a good place to settle in for breakfast or lunch without being rushed. It’s worth stopping by if you’re nearby and want something wholesome.

DON TACO TEQUILA – Calle Dr Ignacio Hernandez Macias 83 Everyday 2pm -10 pm

Don Taco Tequila does fully vegan Mexican food in a way that works even if you’re not usually vegan. The dishes feel hearty and creative. Some favorites are the corn ribs, tequila nachos, and tacos like chicharrito (vegan chicharrón style), mayahuel in lettuce wraps, baja, and spicy chorizo. Vegan staples are in plentiful supply there and they use lots of vegetables, grains, legumes, mushrooms, and avocado, so the meals are nutritious without a single animal product in sight. The mushroom quesadilla has a nice texture that feels close to meat but stays plant-based. There’s also a spinach and quinoa salad with roasted tomatoes and agave-sesame dressing, or quesabirria for that classic flavor.

They also serve a tasty selection of all sorts of drinks including ginger lemonade, Jamaica options, and cocktails like the Jamaica mezcal margarita. Many folks go there just for the drinks; they are that good!

I talked with Hernando, the owner, during my visit. He’s been vegetarian his whole life, even though he grew up in northern Mexico where carne asada was everywhere. He opened Don Taco Tequila in 2012 believing tacos could be a base for more refined Mexican flavors. The restaurant slowly evolved into being fully vegan, and he’s proud of helping people try cruelty-free food without feeling like they’re missing out.

He feels the main challenge he faces is the word “vegan” which sometimes turns people off, but changing people’s minds and seeing his customers enjoy his food, year after year is the best part of his job. Dishes like the Bigotes taco and Mushroom Mixote show how simple ingredients can make a complete, flavorful meal. Hernando says the real draw is the atmosphere there, and everyone from staff to customers adds to the positive energy that pervades the place. Food, he says, brings people together and he loves providing that chance.

As you check out these healthy spots in San Miguel de Allende, it’s clear you don’t have to give up great taste to eat well. And all these restaurants use fresh ingredients and create welcoming spaces where you can relax and enjoy. It makes every meal feel like a small but wonderful discovery. So, whether you’re after a big meal or just something super refreshing like a delicious salad, soup, fresh juice, or smoothie. There’s something available for every type of tasty and dietary desire.

Healthy eating in SMA can be both easy to find and incredibly enjoyable. Ya just gotta get off the couch!

Michael Solof leads SMA Adventure Hound, a group which takes locals and newcomers to brunches and dinners at different restaurants every week and he also offers classes in the art of smartphone photography. You can contact him at WhatsApp +1-443-310-9214 for more info and to reserve.

San Miguel de Allende

Biblioteca Pública: We Build Community

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By Ariadna Salazar—

La Biblioteca Pública de San Miguel de Allende offers a wide variety of cultural and educational activities accessible to everyone. It is a cultural hub where you can spend a pleasant time reading, enjoy a conversation with someone new, or simply wander through its spaces and discover all it has to offer.

Since 1958, this nonprofit association has been located at 25 Insurgentes Street. As you explore the building, you will be impressed by its hidden murals and a spacious central courtyard surrounded by arches dating back to the 1700s.
This beautiful building houses four reading rooms with more than 50,000 books in Spanish and English. The collections include fiction, nonfiction, biography, art, history, travel, and much more.

La Biblioteca also includes the Teatro Santa Ana, with seating for 91 people, and the spectacular Sala Quetzal. Month after month, visitors can enjoy a high-quality program featuring theater, film, dance, talks, lectures, and book presentations.

Children and young people are an essential part of this community. They participate in artistic, creative, and reading activities where they are free to express themselves. In the Programming Club, for example, they learn to solve problems using the technological tools available to them.

Adults are also an important part of La Biblioteca’s learning community, participating in music and art classes, as well as activities such as chess and yoga. Many are also dedicated volunteers and active promoters of culture in San Miguel.

Additionally, for students from San Miguel who require financial support, La Biblioteca works to ensure that those enrolled in high school and university are able to complete their studies through its scholarship program.

As a nonprofit organization, La Biblioteca carries out several fundraising activities. The main and best known are the House & Garden Tour and the Bookstore.

The House & Garden Tour offers an exclusive guided walking tour through some of San Miguel’s most beautiful homes and gardens. It takes place every Friday at noon, and tickets can be purchased at the Bookstore.

The Bookstore offers new titles in Spanish and English, as well as used books, helping to generate funds to acquire new books for the reading rooms.

La Biblioteca has been dedicated to building a reading community in San Miguel for more than 70 years. It was founded in 1954 by Canadian Helen Wale, along with other volunteers, with the goal of helping young members of the community learn to read and study languages.

La Biblioteca is your home—and the home of a diverse local and global community that visits daily. Some of the lucky ones become full-time volunteers or donors.

Apply for your membership to borrow books, take classes, and much more. Learn more at http://www.labibliotecapublica.org.

San Miguel de Allende

The History of Jazz in San Miguel

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By Salomon Maawad—

It all began in August 1979, with an acoustic guitar and an alto sax, on a small, unassuming stage at Mama Mia Restaurant. San Miguel was a small, sleepy town at the time—blessedly quiet, with no buses and very little traffic. Its music scene, however, was about to explode into life.

The Luna family, owners of Mama Mia, were inspired by that first duet and offered me a three-month contract to play every weekend, if I could put together a jazz quartet.

Most of the musicians I knew lived in Mexico City, which at the time was a five- or six-hour commute. Nonetheless, that same year the quartet was formed, and soon we were playing at Mama Mia five days a week. And that is how the Downbeats began their long and amazing career.

The Downbeats included the legendary Marlow Wolf on piano, Chava Martinez on bass, Jorge Leal on drums, and me on saxophones. Over the years, almost one hundred musicians have participated in the band, and many decided to remain in San Miguel, enriching the culture immeasurably. Some became cornerstones of the local music scene—super-talented musicians such as Gil Gutiérrez, Bob Kaplan, José Luis Hopalong, Ken Basman, Toño Lozoya, and Gabriel Hernández. Others went on to different cities where they achieved international fame, including Lila Downs, Magos Herrera, and Janusz Bakum (musical director for Ricky Martin). Still others have passed on and are sorely missed.

In 1994, along with Elena Shoemaker, I created the San Miguel International Jazz Festival. I served as musical director, organizer, and part-time chauffeur. I also accompanied all of the visiting singers and solo artists, including Nora York, Etta Jones, Cynthia Hilts, Denny Berthiaume, Patrice Fisher, Allen Hermann, Bob Montgomery, Tino Contreras, Bob Ackerman, Betty Farmer, Butch Miles, Randy Bernsen, Claire Daly, Mary Ann McSweeney, Henry Cook, Ron Moewes, Dennis Perrier, Eddie Daniels, Tom Aalfs, Brenda Boykin, Tomás Ramírez, John Ronstadt, David “Fathead” Newman, and many more.

The first five years of the festival were incredible—and not just the concerts. After their gigs were over, musicians would head to local bars for endless jam sessions, sometimes going until four in the morning.

As for the Downbeats, the show goes on, with new musicians, new projects, and my original compositions continuing to bring new life and new sounds to the San Miguel music scene. Over the years, I have developed as a composer, and hearing these pieces played live remains a rare treat—one that any jazz lover will savor.

ENCUENTRO NACIONAL DE JAZZ
My latest project is the XXII Encuentro Nacional de Jazz. There will be three concerts, on March 5, 6, and 7. Each concert will be completely different, so you may want to attend all three.

On March 5, there will be a tribute to Brazilian jazz, featuring the Samba Sabrosona Quartet, performing music by Tom Jobim, a key figure in the world of bossa nova. He will perform The Girl from Ipanema, Corcovado, Desafinado, and more.

March 6 will feature my own Salomon Maawad Jazz Quartet. Over a musical career spanning almost five decades, I have been strongly influenced by the legends of jazz, drawing melodies, harmonies, and rhythms from across the musical map. By incorporating the exotic rhythms of avant-garde jazz, I have developed a style that is highly original, musically complex, and pleasing to the ear.

On March 7, internationally acclaimed vocalist Ginger Leigh—whose career spans pop, rock, blues, and jazz—will bring her deep, soulful, power-packed voice (Etta James meets Bette Midler) to San Miguel. Based in Austin, Texas, Ginger leads two bands: a nine-piece jazz variety ensemble (Straight Up with a Ginger Twist) and the Ginger Leigh Band, a six-piece pop-rock ensemble.

Ginger has toured the world for decades, earning acclaim for her distinctive sound and theatrical stage presence. In addition to being a great singer, she puts on one heck of a show. Her performance will celebrate the immortal Billie Holiday and feature some of her most unforgettable songs. With her blues-infused vocal style, weaving together Texas roots, blues heritage, pop sensibility, and jazz mastery, Ginger takes those timeless classics and makes them her own.

Known for her energetic and occasionally theatrical stage antics, Ginger’s performances are tinged with humor and deep emotion—highly entertaining by any measure. This will be her second visit to San Miguel, and it is not to be missed.

All performances will take place at the Angela Peralta Theatre, beginning at 6:00 pm. Tickets are 600 pesos (luneta) and 300 pesos (general admission). Please support these projects. Your attendance will help ensure the continued presence of great music in our wonderful little city.

San Miguel de Allende

Para los Animales, For the Animals

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By Sudhir Amembal—

San Miguel de Allende is often celebrated as one of the most beautiful small cities in the world. Its cobblestone streets, well-preserved Spanish colonial architecture, and arts scene draw admiration from residents and visitors alike. Just as remarkable is its strong sense of community, reflected in the dedication of both locals and expatriates who support a wide range of not-for-profit organizations.

Yet, behind this beauty lies a sobering reality. The city faces a persistent crisis of stray and abandoned animals, especially dogs. Every day, countless dogs struggle to survive on the streets, exposed to traffic, harsh weather during summer rains and winter nights; and, too often, human indifference. They roam hungry, thirsty, sick, and frightened — their eyes silently pleading for compassion and care. While dogs are the most visible victims, the number of homeless cats continues to grow, though they remain largely unseen.

Fortunately, San Miguel is also home to several animal welfare organizations working tirelessly to change this narrative. These groups rescue, rehabilitate, foster, and rehome abandoned animals, while also conducting sterilization programs that reduce suffering at its source. Their mission balances urgent aid with long-term prevention, offering both rescue and hope.

My own journey in animal welfare began in 1974. After years of involvement in India and the U.S., my wife and I moved to San Miguel in 2000, where I co-founded a local animal welfare organization. After a period away, upon returning, I reconnected with the animal welfare community and quickly recognized the potential for even greater impact through unity and collaboration. That realization led to the creation of Para Los Animales in July of last year.

Para Los Animales is a collaborative platform that amplifies the voices and work of seven dedicated partners: Dogs Without Borders Foundation, Esperanza Equina, Fundación México con el Corazón Nutriendo Almas, Lucky Dogs Club House, Rosey’s Wish, The Balam Foundation, and Yo Amo Animalitos SMA. Each operates independently, yet together they have

performed thousands of sterilizations and have rescued and rehomed more than 2,200 animals. Their results are a testament to their compassion and persistence. While six partners focus primarily on dogs and cats, Esperanza Equina provides sanctuary and care for horses in need.

Our mission at Para Los Animales is simple: to support, promote, and fund our partners. We connect them through a private group chat where leaders exchange ideas, coordinate efforts, and share resources. We also host regular meetings that encourage collaboration and strengthen our shared mission. To promote their work, our newsletters highlight each organization through in-depth articles, interviews, and a community directory linking readers directly to our partners’ websites. The widely distributed newsletters strive to create lasting positive change in the lives of animals throughout our community.

We also provide financial assistance to our partners, both through direct funding and by mobilizing community support via our newsletters and website. The feedback we receive from our partners speaks volumes about our impact:
“Thank you for bringing unity and hope to our community.”
“Grateful to be part of a group with a common goal—for the animals.”
“Since PLA came into my life, I’ve enjoyed advocacy work a hundred times more.”

Looking ahead, we will step up our activities to continue to support, promote, and fund our partners as they continually strive to alleviate—and where possible, eliminate—the pain, misery and suffering of the city’s most vulnerable animals: dogs, cats and horses.

You can lend your support by visiting:
http://www.paralosanimales.org, where you will find direct links to each of our partner organizations. We urge you to dig deep into your pockets to provide them with the financial resources they need; for together, we can make San Miguel de Allende not only beautiful in sight, but also in spirit — for every living being who calls it home.

Sudhir Amembal may be contacted at sudhir@amembalandassociates.com

 

San Miguel de Allende

The Most Beautiful Churches in SMA Centro

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By Michael Solof—

It happens all the time. You’re new in town and want to see something special, or maybe you simply have a couple of hours to fill and feel like exploring somewhere different. That’s where this little walking tour comes in.

Today, we’ll visit four of the most beautiful and historically significant churches in San Miguel de Allende, all located within a few blocks of Centro. Along the way, we’ll touch on their architectural styles, histories, and why they continue to matter to the life of the city.

San Miguel de Allende is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, renowned for its well-preserved colonial architecture and striking religious buildings. Let’s begin at the heart of it all.

The Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel

The Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel is the city’s most iconic structure. The original church dates back to the early 17th century, though it underwent major renovations and expansion in the late 19th century. Its dramatic neo-Gothic façade was redesigned by local architect Zeferino Gutiérrez, who reportedly drew inspiration from European Gothic cathedrals.

The church is constructed from pink cantera, a volcanic stone widely used throughout the city and valued for both its durability and warm tonal variations. This material has become closely associated with San Miguel’s architectural identity.

Inside, visitors will find stained-glass windows, soaring arches, religious artworks, and impressive bell towers that dominate the skyline. Today, the Parroquia is one of the most photographed and recognizable churches in Mexico.

Over the years, the Parroquia has also accumulated its share of local legends and ghost stories — a common fate for historic churches. These tales belong more to popular imagination than documented history, but they add another layer to the building’s mystique, especially when seen at dusk.

Iglesia de la Inmaculada Concepción (Las Monjas)

Located near the Jardín Principal, the Iglesia de la Inmaculada Concepción— often referred to as Las Monjas—is one of the city’s architectural highlights.

Construction began in the mid-18th century, and the church is a fine example of Mexican Baroque architecture. Its most striking feature is the dome, which was inspired by European cathedral design and rises elegantly above the surrounding streets. The façade and dome glow beautifully in the late afternoon light, thanks again to the use of pink cantera stone.
Inside, the church contains richly decorated altarpieces covered in gold leaf, along with artwork created by local craftsmen. The church is dedicated to the Virgin of the Immaculate Conception, reflecting strong Spanish colonial influence in both its architecture and devotional focus.

Each year, the Feast of the Immaculate Conception is celebrated here, drawing a primarily local congregation and reinforcing the church’s role as a living part of San Miguel’s religious life.

Templo de San Francisco
(Corner of San Francisco and Juárez)

The Templo de San Francisco is among the oldest churches in the city. Construction began in 1683 under the direction of Franciscan friars, who played a central role in spreading Christianity throughout the region.

The exterior reflects restrained Baroque design, combining pink stone with white stucco for a striking but understated contrast. Inside, however, the church is far more ornate, featuring a beautifully crafted altar, decorative ceilings, and religious artwork.

While the church itself sits within the bustle of Centro, nearby courtyards and surrounding streets offer quieter moments for reflection. Each year, the Feast of Saint Francis is celebrated in early October, marking one of the church’s most important annual events.

Templo del Oratorio de San Felipe Neri
(Insurgentes 12)

The Oratorio de San Felipe Neri is an excellent example of 18th-century Baroque architecture paired with deep civic and religious significance.

Founded by the Oratorians—a religious order devoted to preaching, education, and community service—construction began in 1748 and was completed in 1753. The church’s elegant façade, carved from local pink stone, features intricate detailing that highlights the craftsmanship of the period. Its bell tower makes it a prominent landmark along Calle Insurgentes.

Inside, visitors will find a finely detailed altar, religious icons, and murals depicting saints and biblical scenes. The Oratorians were instrumental in establishing educational institutions in San Miguel, and their influence extended well beyond the church walls.

The Feast of San Felipe Neri is celebrated each May, maintaining the Oratorio’s role as an active center of worship and community life.

A City of Churches

The churches scattered throughout San Miguel de Allende offer a window into Mexico’s layered history—colonial ambition, religious devotion, artistic expression, and everyday life unfolding over centuries. While it would take weeks to visit them all, these four provide a rich introduction, all within a short walk of Centro.

Enjoy your travels—and take your time.

Michael Solof leads SMA Adventure Hound, a group which takes locals and newcomers to brunches and dinners at different restaurants every week and he also offers classes in the art of smartphone photography. You can contact him at WhatsApp +1-443-310-9214 for more info and to reserve.

San Miguel de Allende

Zen and the Art of MotorMind Maintenance

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By Kim Malcolm—

For some reason, I thought a weeklong silent Zen meditation retreat — called “sesshin” — would be an important life experience. And it was, although maybe not in the ways I expected. I certainly chose a good one. It took place at Mar de Jade, a gorgeous resort on a secluded beach north of Puerto Vallarta. The priest, Norman Fisher, was once the head of the San Francisco Zen Center, and understands the “western,” non-Zen mind. The description of the retreat welcomed “beginners.” I don’t have a Zen practice, but I’ve read books about Zen, so I was a beginner, right?

I arrived at Mar de Jade in the early evening of the first day, just in time for a brief orientation and our first “zazen”– seated meditation. There were about 60 of us in the meditation hall where I found a square mat on the floor with my name on it. Following the lead of those around me, I sat down on the mat and closed my eyes. I began breathing, believing the evening would bring internal quiet and the first in a series of small but significant revelations. This was a wrong belief. My mind was the opposite of peaceful and my only revelation was that the excruciating pain in my hips and back would not be tolerable for six more days. Never mind, I thought. I was there to learn, not to be comfortable.

Each day after that had an identical schedule. Routine sometimes causes me to break out in hives, but, strangely, I enjoyed the predictability. We were awakened at 5am to the sound of clacking wooden sticks. The day began with light exercise followed by eight 40-minute sessions of silent meditation, a 2-hour work assignment, dharma talks, prostrations, and three excellent vegetarian meals. Besides the wooden sticks, the sounds of each day were gongs, bells, crashing ocean waves, birds and the low rumble of a banda band playing at the other end of the beach. We chanted, but we were otherwise mostly silent.

It didn’t take long for me to realize that this retreat was not going to be warm and fuzzy. Perhaps, I thought, it is hard to make friendly connections when no one is talking and your homies are working to accept the fact of universal suffering. Still, the feeling of sobriety surprised me. I’d read Norman Fisher’s book about Zen practice, which described the objectives of bodhisattvas — our Zen muses — as generosity and joyful engagement. I didn’t see much of either from the other participants. For the sake of not complaining, I will spare you the details.

A little frustrated with the prospect of a week of somber, I was determined to continue so I could understand a little about Zen Buddhism and enjoy the beach. Also, there were no refunds LOL. Hoping to avoid feeling too somber myself, I began giving little notes to people. “Thank you for playing the gong for us this week.” “I love your blouse.” “I like sitting behind you because your posture is perfect.” During our free time in the afternoon, I went swimming in the warm ocean and looked for shells on the beach.

After three days of monkey mind during every one of our meditation sessions, I raised the issue of somber at my brief meeting with our priest. “Because of the Bodhisattva’s path,” I said, “I was expecting a feeling of warmth and caring.” He gently explained that Zen practice is one of austerity and many come to it who are trying to get through life’s challenges (I apologize if I am not precisely reporting the content or spirit of his words). He knew that I was the only participant who did not have a Zen practice and mentioned that even Zen practitioners don’t normally attend a weeklong sesshin who haven’t first attended several one or two day silent retreats. Um, apparently reading a few books didn’t even qualify me as a Zen beginner. “Are you ok?” he asked. I replied that yes I actually was, but I didn’t say I was ok partly because of Roman.

Roman is Mar de Jade’s pastry chef. He lives in the village near the resort and makes breads and desserts for 100 people every day. My work assignment each day was to help Roman, and I loved my job. Cutting strawberries and rolling out dough for two hours cleared my mind of the racket it produced during our meditation sessions. Roman got me through the week. Although we weren’t supposed to talk and I don’t speak much Spanish anyway, it was obvious that Roman is generous and joyfully engaged — just like a Bodhisattva.

“Before enlightenment, chop wood and haul water. After enlightenment, chop wood and haul water.” — Buddhist saying

Kim Malcolm is a retired U.S. citizen and author based in San Miguel de Allende. Having traveled to 73 countries, she brings a global perspective to her writing, which often explores culture, place, and personal experience, with many essays rooted in her life in Mexico.

Follow her blog Camino Milagro: http://www.kimmie53.com

San Miguel de Allende

Your Guide to Asian Delights in SMA

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By Michael Solof—

This month, in honor of the Chinese Year of the Horse, I want to share a few of my favorite Asian restaurants in SMA. I picked four very different types of restaurants and spoke with the owners and chefs about their establishments and what inspired them to create their own unique spin on Asian cuisine. I selected places with not only varied menus and pricing but also different philosophies and goals.

SPICE MARKET- (Calz. De La Presa 85) 1pm -11:30pm, Daily

Spice Market opened inside the Live Aqua Hotel seven years ago. They specialize in a combination of Indian, Chinese, Japanese, Thai, and Vietnamese foods. Each dish captivates your taste buds while delighting you with beautiful visuals and tantalizing smells. I spoke with Ernesto, the executive chef, and Oscar, the Operations Manager, to get a sneak peek behind the scenes of the restaurant. Spice Market’s dishes are served family-style so that everyone gets involved. The decor feels like you’ve stepped out of Mexico and into an Asian palace. According to Ernesto, Spice Market only uses the finest ingredients, both imported and, as much as possible, locally sourced. Both he and Oscar are especially proud of the service provided in the restaurant. The wait staff offers perfect recommendations after finding out if you have any specific preferences or allergies to any given foods. I love salads, and my waiter recommended the Endive salad with Asian pears, which had a delicious creamy sesame, chili oil-infused takai furikake dressing. The restaurant switches up its menu at least twice a year to keep up with the latest trends and to keep it exciting for returning guests. Ernesto says the key to a great dish is loving what you are cooking and realizing that you are cooking for others and not just yourself. His cooks constantly taste the meals they are prepping to ensure each dish is perfectly flavored. “Cooking is easy to do if you love what you’re doing.”

DRAGON CHINO – (Salida a Celaya 71) 12:30pm – 7pm, Daily

Dragon Chino opened in its current location in 2008 and is the oldest Chinese restaurant in SMA. Over the years, they have developed a devoted local following. The restaurant is small and sparsely decorated, but that’s because the focus is on the dishes they create. I talked with Luis, the owner, and his wife, Lily, who, along with their entire staff, have operated the restaurant since its opening.

A family atmosphere pervades at Dragon Chino, which is open from 12:30 to 7 PM, seven days a week. The menu is packed with well-known and well-loved favorites, as well as a selection of specialty dishes. Luis recommends trying the Peking duck or the crispy orange chicken, which sells the best among long-term customers. “All our food has no MSG, is prepared to order, locally sourced as much as possible, and made with all-natural, fresh ingredients. And the best part is we have an open kitchen, so you can watch as they prepare your meal. It’s lots of fun!” Luis’s words of wisdom are, “Treat your customers like family, and you’ll never go wrong.”

FUNKY PANDA – (Salida a Celaya 16a) 1pm – 9:30pm, Daily

Funky Panda has been open for a year and a half at its current location. Mario, the owner, has big plans and hopes to expand Funky Panda to locations all over Mexico. They are working on opening a new spot in Mexico City early next year. The menu is very varied because Andrea, Mario’s wife and co-owner, likes different types of food than he does, so the menu runs the gamut from sushi to hamburgers. But don’t let those two extremes scare you; the various flavors and tastes are what’s key there, no matter what the dish is.

“We focus on the best ingredients around. All our sauces and salsas are made in-house using traditional family recipes and methods. We respect the past. Some of our recipes are even from my grandmother, who was a famous cook in our neighborhood growing up. For instance, our hamburgers are made by combining three wonderful, yet different types of meat. It may not be the biggest hamburger in town, but I guarantee it’s the most delicious. Many of our ingredients are organic and locally sourced. We’re very proud of the fusion between cultures that we offer, and we love connecting different elements to make unique dishes, all at very affordable prices. I feel you don’t need to be a classically trained chef to succeed; you just have to have a love and a passion for good food and cooking… and everyone here does,” explains Mario.

KOKUMI – (Stirling Dickinson 2) 11am – 8 pm, Closed Wednesdays

There is a brand-new Korean restaurant that opened just over a month ago called Kokumi. When I asked the owner, Aleysha, and her husband, Satoru (who is also the chef), the meaning of the unique name, they stated that it’s a Japanese food-based expression that you say when you eat something wonderful. Kokumi is a sensation of richness, depth, and complexity…and that’s a perfect description for the food they offer. Aleysha was inspired by the fact that her husband is Japanese and they both love Korean food, so they decided to open a Japanese-Korean restaurant but with a goal to go beyond the typical sushi place. They strive to combine traditional Japanese and Korean foods with the warmth of Mexican hospitality. Using many unique ingredients, they make their own kimchi and miso on-site, and bibimbap, Korean BBQ, and shabu-shabu are just some of their specialty dishes. They also love serving Soba noodles because they are not found in many restaurants. Aleysha and Satoru are always looking for ways to reach out to the local community by planning fun, special events and collaborating with other chefs and bartenders. Satoru follows his passion for cooking by starting with a traditional foundation and then innovating it. Aleysha says, “We love this new start and new location, and especially our name… and can’t wait to share our passion for cooking with the community.”

SMA continues to expand its culinary horizons and offerings… and these are just some of the unique culinary experiences that you can enjoy while celebrating the Year of the Horse. I hope to see you at some of these incredible restaurants soon. Each one promises an unforgettable experience that showcases the best of Asian cuisine in SMA.

For those looking to discover more culinary treasures and engage with the local community, I lead *SMA Adventure Hound*, a group that organizes brunches and dinners at various restaurants every week. Additionally, I offer classes in the art of smartphone photography. Feel free to reach out to me via WhatsApp at +1 443–310–9214 for more information and to reserve your spot.