The Hidden City Behind the World’s Shoes

By Ximena Collado—

When I tell people I’m from León, they usually smile politely and ask, “Oh, where is that?” Few know that my hometown, tucked right in the heart of Mexico, is actually considered the shoe capital of the world. Not just of the country — of the world.
Not many people think of León as a tourist destination, even though it has a rich culture and great food. Yet it’s one of the closest airports to San Miguel de Allende, so countless travelers who fly in to visit San Miguel arrive through León. Many have unknowingly taken their first step in Guanajuato right here — in the city where the shoes they wear might have been made.
For those of us who grew up here, leather is more than a material; it’s part of our identity, the scent that lingers in the air, the texture of our childhood memories, the heartbeat of our city.
Some of my earliest memories are filled with that smell — the deep, warm leather that seemed to live in every corner of my house. My uncles worked with leather, crafting boots by hand in small workshops scattered across the city. When they hugged me after a long day, they always smelled like leather — rich and earthy, a scent that clung to their clothes and hands. To this day, whenever I catch that smell, it feels like home.
Walking through León, it’s impossible not to feel that connection. The smell of tanned leather still floats from old factories, and the markets shine with beautifully crafted boots and bags.
Our story with leather reaches back to the early 1600s, when León’s artisans began tanning hides and crafting goods by hand. The abundance of cattle in the Bajío region provided plenty of raw material, and the city’s location made it a natural hub for trade. Local histories suggest that Spanish settlers introduced new tanning methods during colonial times, techniques that blended with the skill and ingenuity of local craftspeople. Over the centuries, those small workshops grew into a thriving industry — and with it came a new identity. People from León earned the nickname panza verde, or “green belly,” a name said to come from the dyes and pigments that stained the aprons and skin of the leather workers. Over time, panza verde became more than a nickname; it became a badge of pride, a symbol of the color and character that define our craft.

Today, León produces millions of pairs of shoes every year, from classic cowboy boots to modern sneakers and elegant heels. But what many people don’t realize is that some of the world’s most recognized brands are made right here. I’ve even known friends who produce shoes for brands like Sperry or Steve Madden, proof of how León’s craftsmanship quietly travels the world. Their global designs are brought to life by Mexican hands — by people who’ve learned the balance between precision and intuition, between tradition and trend. If you’re looking for some beautifully made leather shoes, start with local names like Bala di Gala, Flexi, Cuadra, Dante, or Perugia — each one rooted in León’s heritage of craftsmanship and quality.
I always smile when I travel and spot a pair of shoes in a store that I know came from León. There’s something magical about seeing a piece of your city walking around the world — quietly, beautifully, without most people even knowing where it was born.
But León isn’t just an industrial city anymore. It’s transforming into a creative hub, a place where design, fashion, and culture come together. In recent years, I’ve watched boutique studios, design schools, and concept stores pop up all around the city. Events like SAPICA — Latin America’s biggest leather and footwear fair — attract buyers, stylists, and designers from all over the world. León is redefining itself: still rooted in craftsmanship, but now looking boldly toward the future.

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