Partial Progress

By Leigh Morrow

Meet Claudia Sheinbaum, Mexico City’s first elected female mayor and the new face of female politics in Mexico (a profile of Sheinbaum appears elsewhere in this issue). 

“What happened in Mexico City is the result of a movement during the last 20 years, led by feminists and women in politics,” said Ximena Andion, executive director of the Simone de Beauvoir Leadership Institute in Mexico City.  Women now make up half of Mexico’s congress, but before you applaud, this is 15 years after gender quotas were introduced in Mexico. Continue reading Partial Progress

Safety & Security

By Alvin Starkman, M.A., J.D.

Most of the concerns expressed on social media platforms about safety and security when travelling in Mexico come from women. So, while this article does not specifically address this issue’s theme of women in politics, it is more than tangentially relevant. [Not being a Mexican citizen I am always reluctant to opine about anything having to do with politics and run afoul of the constitutional provision which prohibits foreigners from participating in the political process.]

Despite most published reports identifying women rather than men as the victims of crime (mainly at coastal resort areas), Oaxaca is a safe state for travellers; however, reasonable precautions should be taken. Mexican nationals are vigilant, and tourists should be as well. The former have been taught from a young age, while the latter need some instruction. 

Kidnapping. The bad guys target the wealthy for ransom. While they may not be all that smart, they do know that kidnapping a tourist is no guarantee of a big payday.  Thus they abduct those (mainly women and children) whose families they reasonably assume have significant financial resources. Some people flaunt their wealth by driving a Mercedes and wearing flashy gold jewellery. They and members of their families are the targets, not you. They live in large homes in wealthy parts of town. They own very successful retail and wholesale businesses. The proprietor of one well-known construction materials supply chain was kidnapped twice over the course of about 15 years. Presumably that target now has a 24/7 body guard. 

My wife wanted to buy a Mini Cooper, the only small car she really liked.  She wanted a red one. We live in a semi-rural suburb of Oaxaca.  Most of our neighbors are of fairly modest means.  Why draw attention to us? I suggested a grey Mini, and that the two stripes it comes with be removed by the dealership. While the Mini logo remains, the car otherwise does not draw attention. And while our house is large, it features traditional construction and exterior fencing concealed by tall bushy bougainvilleas.  It looks modest compared to the modern towering white box style homes that have been built more recently by a few neighbors, the ones who park their black SUVs and fancy Audis in their three car garages.  

Theft. The 80-year-old upper-class mother of a Canadian friend visited Oaxaca. I met with her to advise what to do where and when, and about safety.  I suggested that she dress down.  She responded that she always does when travelling, despite that at the time she was wearing designer clothes and gold earrings and necklace. Her male companion and I looked at each other in disbelief. 

If a point-and-shoot camera will suffice, leave the one with the $3,000 lens at home.  Alternatively, when walking through marketplaces, keep the camera in a non-descript polyurethane bag which you can purchase pretty well all over the state for 5 – 10 pesos. That’s what the locals use when out in the markets shopping. Sure, you’ll still look like a tourist, but will be less likely a target for thieves than the next sauntering visitor. 

Listen to what the locals tell you. When in marketplaces be particularly careful in crowded areas or if groups of people, even women, appear to be too close to you.  In a couple of weekly market towns near Oaxaca, swarmings by ladies have been noted. You’re brushed up against, and the next thing you know your wallet, purse or passport is missing.

Hold your camera and purse snugly in front of you and leave your passport in your hotel room (but keep photos of your tourist card and passport photo page with you).  If you must use a backpack, carry it in front of you, snug against the chest. For a day excursion, only take as much cash as you could reasonably need, and one credit card. Surely you don’t need your Texas drivers’ license with you. 

Assaults & Worse. Bad things happen to good people all over the world, all the time, in their home cities and towns. There are pockets of urban areas notorious for assaults and robberies all over the world, and here is no different. Typically, theft is the main motivation, so again, dress down and listen to what residents tell you.  Ask about venturing out after dark, and if there are any particular areas you should avoid day or night. Women and youths seem to be the targets of robberies and thefts, likely because of a perceived lack of physical strength, and the former where sexual predators are lurking. For this, I suppose type of dress should be a consideration; the less someone considers you provocative, the less likely you will encounter problems.  Call me out of touch or sexist if you like, but parts of the world are still largely misogynistic, so heeding a bit of advice may go a long way to avoiding trouble.  

Epilogue. The state of Oaxaca is essentially safe and secure for both residents and visitors; men, women and children. If it wasn’t, I and many others who live here but were born and raised outside of Mexico, wouldn’t have elected to uproot and move. For most of us it wasn’t the climate or cost of living, but rather because of lifestyle, the multiplicity of rich cultural traditions, and safety. But we all exercise reasonable precautions, no more or no less than we did in the countries we came from. 

For visitors, just remember that those who have cautioned that Mexico is unsafe, are probably people who have never visited the country and rely on sensationalistic media reports or paternalistic state department cautions in forming their opinions and providing fodder for their advice. 

Canadian Alvin Starkman operates Mezcal Educational Excursions of Oaxaca (www.mezcaleducationaltours.com). He has been a resident of the state capital for 15 years, and frequent visitor for a dozen years prior.

Editor’s Letter

screen shot 2019-01-30 at 5.11.50 pmSilence is a source of great strength. 

Lao Tzu

I am a big fan of quiet. It is why I don’t mind long bus journeys or often prefer to stay home rather than go out and socialize. While I enjoy talking with people, I take great comfort at the end of the day in the quiet of the world. 

Last September I attended a 10-day silent meditation retreat held in Oaxaca City through Vipassana Mexico. I felt slightly daunted about the no talking, no eye contact days that would stretch ahead of me, but I was more worried about forgoing my evening wine and reading (yes, no reading or writing!) than embracing the quiet. The retreat was held in a convent in the center of the city and the sounds of the outside world gave some solace to our otherwise silent days that began at 4:30am with a couple of hours of meditation before our vegan breakfast.  Continue reading Editor’s Letter

Corn: Mexico’s Gift to the World and New Possibilities for this Ancient Grain

screen shot 2019-01-30 at 5.12.21 pmBy Julie Etra

Although I have written several articles about corn (Zea mays), for The Eye, this one focuses on an outstanding new discovery that may truly revolutionize the agriculture “industry”? and associated production of this grain worldwide.  Continue reading Corn: Mexico’s Gift to the World and New Possibilities for this Ancient Grain

Journeying Home-Free in Mexico

screen shot 2019-01-30 at 5.12.34 pmBy Marcia Chaiken and Jan Chaiken

Many people set out on a spiritual journey to free themselves from preoccupation with material possessions. At the beginning of 2001, we turned this venture upside down.  We first rid ourselves of almost all of our material possessions, including our very large townhouse in Alexandria, Virginia, and our second car, and then we set out on a journey through Mexico. Continue reading Journeying Home-Free in Mexico

Blues on the Beach Valentine’s Concert

screen shot 2019-01-30 at 5.12.55 pmBy Dan Thompson

Don’t miss the final show of Huatulco’s 2019 Blues on the Beach season.  As always, all profits of this show go to benefit Un Nuevo Amanecer.

Our headliner this show will be Huatulco’s favorite band leader, the always amazing David Rotundo.  Toronto blues harpist David Rotundo has developed his own language of the blues. Rotundo is a songwriter who easily pulls inspiration from the world around him.  Continue reading Blues on the Beach Valentine’s Concert