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Huatulco

From Ant Eggs to Corn Smut with Three Under 30: Strolling, Savoring, and Snacking through the Streets of CDMX

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By Carole Reedy

Two Welshmen and a Scot, all under 30, were my guests for a week last month in my adopted home, Mexico City. Seeing the city and the Mexican experience through their eyes brought me a fresh perspective. Neither age nor country-of-origin were barriers when it comes to culture or gastronomy.

Come with us on an abridged version of our discoveries …

First Impressions and Surprises

Mexico City’s population of 23,000,000, when compared to the 3,000,000 in all of Wales, was the first shock. The Welshmen (Kadun and Callum) are proud people, so the number of large Mexican flags that fly throughout the city positively impressed them, as well as the kind and welcoming attitudes of the locals.

Kadun remared, “I only wish they knew where Wales was located. We got weird looks after saying “Soy de Galés” (I am from Wales).

Their biggest compliment was simply “We could’ve stayed another week.”

Tamales and Chilaquiles

We began planning our week over morning cocktails and tamales on my sunny balcony in the trendy colonia (neighborhood) of Roma Sur. The young men chose Aperol spritzes and Bloody Marys, followed by tequilas.

The tamales come from a corner street vendor (at Bajío and Tlacotalpan, Roma Sur), who offers the traditional maíz as well as the Oaxaqueña style (wrapped in banana leaves) of tamales every weekday from 8 am to noon. We chose a tasting, buying the verde (green), mole, sweet, and raja (pepper strips) tamales. The green chiles proved to be the favorites. The spice level varies daily, and that day’s were plenty spicy without burning the mouth.

The hours flew while we planned the rest of their week, trying to fit as much as possible into the schedule, considering traffic, protest marches, and other exigencies of living in this grand metropolis.

Soon it was time for comida (informal food, often lunch). I had also purchased from the same friendly vendor a true Mexican delight and favorite of all: chilaquiles – corn chips (totopos) simmered in red or green sauce, often with other toppings. The vendor alternates the red and green flavors every other day. These were green and among the best I’ve ever had.

Chilaquiles are among the top favorite foods of Mexicans, traditionally served New Years Day as a hangover cure for, but offered year-round. Aside from assuaging a hangover, they are mighty tasty, consisting simply of chicken, green or red chile sauce, and onions served over corn chips and topped with crema.

Add a Victoria Mexican beer and all is right with the world.

Rediscovering Old Favorites: Cafe Tacuba and El Mayor

A full day in Centro Histórico is a must for all travelers. We started our day at Bellas Artes, the stunning Art Deco wonder and home of Mexico City’s Opera House as well as the most significant murals of Diego Rivera, David Siqueiros, and Jose Clemente Orozco. We also appreciated some Impressionist works in a recently opened special exhibit.

All that activity whetted our appetites, so we picked up speed, turned down Calle Tacuba, walked by the equally magnificent Art Deco post office, and ended up at #12 Tacuba, home of the renowned restaurant, Café Tacuba.

While Sor Juana, Mexico’s most renowned poet/nun, peeked over our shoulders from her dominant place on the wall, we dined on three of the ten different styles of enchiladas (tortilla-wrapped fillings covered with sauce), traditional sopa azteca (tomato-chile broth over tortilla strips, with a variety of toppings), and a tasty horchata (a rice and cinnamon drink). The entire menu is filled with traditional Mexican specialties.

Café Tacuba opened in 1912. The building was once a 17th-century palatial home and is decorated with colonial style art. Calle Tacuba is the oldest street in the Americas.

Several years ago, I was served a disappointing meal that had not been heated sufficiently – it was served lukewarm on the surface and cold inside. I hesitated to return, but, because I always like to take visitors to traditional Mexican places, I crossed my fingers and entered. I was happy we returned because everything we ate was just perfect this time. A lesson learned: don’t judge a restaurant by one bad experience.

Frappes at El Mayor
Well-sated, we strolled to the zócalo (main square) where the Templo Mayor, the heart of the Aztec Empire, dominated. Here the largest of the pyramids stood, the place where lives were sacrificed to the gods.

This temple was discovered quite by accident. In 1978 electricians hard at work discovered a giant monolith close to the cathedral, which spurred a five-year investigation that unearthed the Templo Mayor. Imagine what else lies beneath the Cathedral (built in 1578) and other structures in the area. Think of this as you walk on the cement sidewalks of Mexico City.

Parched and tired, we fortunately knew help was just a few blocks away at the Terrace of El Mayor, a lovely cafe overlooking the ruins of the Templo Mayor. You enter through the Porrúa bookstore at República de Argentina 15 (cross street is Donceles) and take the elevator to the restaurant/cafe level. We all ordered chocolate coffee frappes at the cafe. Nothing ever tasted so good. The adjacent restaurant serves breakfast and lunch.

Turibus and Cervecerías
“Watch the wires and branches: Duck!” These are the instructions I give visitors who join me on one of the most pleasant rides available to tourists. Turibus, the double-decker bus, follows several routes and stops, but my favorite by far is the Centro Histórico route. You will ride through the home of the Aztecs and experience the 500-year historical progress of the nation’s independence from Spain and the equally lengthy and inexplicable Mexican Revolution.

You will be treated to a ride down the city’s most beautiful street: Reforma. If you are fortunate enough to visit in February or March, the purple flowers of the jacaranda trees will carpet your route. A short ride through Condesa gives one a glimpse into this popular colonia.

A good place to end the Turibus tour is the Cibeles fountain, a replica of the fountain found in Madrid and a gift from Spain to Mexico. The stop is in the trendy colonia Roma at Medellin and Oaxaca streets. There you will encounter many bars, cervecerías (brewpubs) and restaurants in a beautiful setting. Recently friends of mine rented an apartment in a floor-to-ceiling windowed high rise on Calle Medellin, across from the Turibus stop: the views of the mountains to the south of the city were spectacular!

Azul Condesa Celebration and Tequila Tour
A special day deserves a special restaurant for the 28th birthday of our visitor from Scotland, my grandson Joe. After a full day at the pyramids at Teotihuacán, we dined at one of the renowned Azul restaurants, Azul Condesa.

The men were adventurous and chose to start with escamoles (ant eggs), a delicacy often known as “Mexican caviar.” I chose the traditional fungal corn smut, huitlacoche. A variety of wines from the very complete list graced our table, as well as the ever-traditional margaritas. Service was impeccable and our main meals of meat, fish and duck were most satisfying.

My young visitors still had energy to go on to the famous Plaza Garibaldi (known for its mariachis). There they did a complete tequila tasting tour at the Museo del Tequila y el Mezcal, and their glowing report raved that the tour “offered big pours and a complete explanation of the process of creating Mexico’s most famous beverage.”

The next day we said goodbye and the three went on to the beaches of Puerto Vallarta. A few days later, we all met in Puerto Peñasco, Sonora, for our triennial Reedy family reunion, a perfect ending to the Mexican Adventure.

Huatulco

Kosher Restaurants in Mexico

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By Marcia Chaiken and Jan Chaiken

The Jewish population of Mexico is estimated to be somewhere between 40,000 and 50,000 people, the fourteenth largest Jewish population in the world. It is not surprising, then, that a large number of kosher restaurants are located in Mexico City, where most of those Jews live. A few other kosher restaurants are scattered around the country – especially in Guadalajara and resort areas catering to Jewish tourists.

The term “kosher” is often misunderstood as meaning “clean.” It does not mean “clean,” nor does it refer to foods that are stereotypically Jewish, such as bagels or hot pastrami sandwiches on rye bread. In fact, some bagels and hot pastrami sandwiches are not kosher. To be accepted as kosher, the source and preparation of the food must adhere to Jewish law. Here are some of the major laws and their implications for Mexican restaurants.

Mixing meat and dairy products is strictly forbidden. No cheese and meat tacos or enchiladas can be kosher (unless the “meat” is plant based). To make sure this mixing does not occur, kosher restaurants are either “meat” restaurants with no dairy products on the premises or “dairy” restaurants with no meat on the premises. Often the type of restaurant can be deduced from the name, such as “Gaucho Grill” in Polanco, “Milk” on Reforma de Bosques, or “Burger House” on Las Palmas. If the menu in a kosher meat restaurant has “leche” (milk) for coffee or “helado” (ice cream) on the menu – you can be sure both are nondairy substitutes. Many of the kosher restaurants in Mexico serve meat. And a relatively large number of kosher dairy restaurants are pizzerias; there you can find pizzas with tomato sauce, cheese, mushrooms, olives and a variety of other vegetables – but not any meat.

Hotels in Mexican resorts with kosher restaurants that serve both meat dishes and dairy dishes never serve both at the same time in the same venue. These include NIZUC in Cancun and Grand Velas Riviera Maya. We frequently stayed at Grand Hotel Acapulco where guests actually voted on whether they would all have a meat dinner or a dairy dinner the next day. The tablecloths, napkins, cutlery and dishes used for serving meat dishes are exclusively used for meat meals. And similar items used for dairy meals are also exclusively used for dairy. The kitchens are under rabbinic supervision to assure this separation. Chefs in a kosher restaurant know that a spoon previously used to stir elote (corn) with melted butter cannot be later used to stir chicken soup – the whole batch of chicken soup would then not be kosher.

Meat in kosher restaurants must be from domesticated fowl or animals that have split hooves and chew their cud. Fortunately, this includes meat that is found all over Mexico, including chicken, duck, Cornish hen, beef, goat, lamb and venison. However, the birds and animals must be ritually slaughtered, using procedures that were developed thousands of years ago to cause minimal pain to the animal. Some of the animals that are considered staples in Mexico – such as pork products or delicacies such as iguana – are prohibited in kosher restaurants.

Fish is an example of a class of food (called parve or pareve) that is neither meat or dairy and can be served in either type of restaurant. But fish served in kosher restaurants must have both fins and scales. Nothing else from the sea is allowed. Although there are many “fish” restaurants in Mexico that do not have meat on their menus, most are not kosher since they also serve mariscos, which could be camarones (shrimp), pulpo (octopus), calamares (squid) or other seafood with shells. Aside from fish, other foods that are considered parve and are served in both meat and dairy establishments include baked goods with no dairy ingredients, eggs and virtually all types of fruits and vegetables – inspected to be sure they are free of impermissible contaminants.

Strictly vegan and vegetarian restaurants are increasingly found in urban areas all around Mexico. Many people who observe kashrut (Jewish dietary laws) happily chow down in these places knowing that there will be no mixing of meat and milk, nor any chance of eating nonkosher meat or seafood. But very observant Jews are likely to stick to restaurants that are certified kosher and supervised by rabbis. In Mexico quite a few organizations are recognized for certifying restaurants as well as bakeries and grocery stores as providing kosher meals and products. Some are local to Mexico, such as Kosher Maguen David, and others are international, such as Orthodox Union. The symbols of certification look like little designs for the uninitiated. But for those who care about observing kashrut, seeing their preferred symbols on the window of a restaurant or stamped on products in Mexican stores means “you can shop here” or “you can eat this.”

Just as Jews in Mexico have immigrated here from countries all over the world, kosher restaurants reflect the backgrounds of their owners. Some Jewish restaurant owners are from families that have lived in Mexico for generations and their menus are not very different from nonkosher restaurants. But, in addition to kosher pizza, kosher Mexico restaurants variously serve Argentine parrillas (grilled meats), Russian style borscht and other dishes, Israeli falafel and salads, chicken soup with matzoh balls, and, yes, of course, bagels, lox and cream cheese. You needn’t be Jewish to eat in a kosher Mexican restaurant. But don’t expect to go there on Friday night or daylight hours on Saturday, and don’t ask for bread and butter to eat with your steak.

Huatulco

Sensory Sensitivity Meets Cultural Reality in Mexico

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By Kary Vannice

For the sensory sensitive traveler, Mexico can be a challenge. If you’re planning to visit, or stay for a while, no doubt you’re already anticipating the delicious spicy food, warm hospitality, and the vibrant colorful culture that Mexico is known for. But there are some very real sensory and cultural differences that some foreigners aren’t prepared for until they come face to face with them. Being unprepared can turn something delightful into something disorienting or even disturbing, depending on your level of preparation and understanding. The key to truly enjoying Mexican culture isn’t to try to change it to suit your comfort zone—but to shift your expectations and adapt to your surroundings.

Even if you don’t identify as particularly sensory sensitive, Mexico may still throw you a few cultural curveballs, so knowing how to deal with them gracefully and respectfully in advance can mean you get to have a good time and you don’t have to ask Mexico not to be Mexico.

It won’t take long before you realize that most of Mexico is loud (at least by foreign standards). Whether it’s music blasting from a nearby store or café, fireworks before sunrise for a saint’s day celebration, or street vendors shouting their daily offerings through a loudspeaker—Mexico is a full-on auditory experience.

Celebration is a part of everyday life in Mexico. Music, fireworks, parades, and community gatherings often involve sound levels that would be considered noise violations in other countries. Most Mexicans aren’t conditioned to need silence to relax, so there are no “quiet hours.” These sounds aren’t disturbances—they’re expressions of joy. It’s Mexicans living their best life, and when foreigners insist on lowering the volume or making complaints, they are asking the locals to lessen their enjoyment of life.

But there are ways to cope. First, pay attention to daily rhythms—afternoon siesta often brings a lull and can be a great time to rest. If you see a party, join in instead of resisting. Mexicans are some of the most welcoming people on the planet and live by the ethos: the more the merrier. If you’re sensitive to sound, invest in quality earplugs or noise-canceling headphones. And most important, accept that the noise isn’t a cultural flaw—it’s a feature.

Another sensory difference that might catch you off guard is personal space—or the lack of it. In many Mexican communities, people naturally stand closer together, touch more often, and greet others with a hug or kiss on the cheek, even if you’ve only just met. For someone from another culture, this can feel like an invasion of space.

The local culture places high value on connection and warmth. Touch is seen as a sign of respect and caring, not a threat to autonomy or an invasion of space. Physical closeness indicates trust. But, if you don’t feel comfortable touching or even standing close to people you don’t know, Mexico can be a challenge.

It’s important to keep in mind that their perception of personal space is different from yours, so they genuinely won’t understand your discomfort. Relax your body when your personal space is invaded and set gentle boundaries after you build rapport but do it with humor and kindness. Mexicans love to joke around and are quick to laugh if you keep things light. It can also help to simply observe the locals as they move in and around each other. You’ll soon see that they are as warm with strangers as they are with family. You’ll likely learn to appreciate the beauty and tenderness of these simple gestures.

Time might not have a sensory quality, but for many of us, punctuality is a deeply ingrained expectation. And in Mexico, this will likely present a greater challenge than either noise or touch. Time here is flexible, fluid … and often late.

You may arrive at a dinner party “on time” and find you’re the only person there for the first hour. A plumber who promised to arrive “a las diez” might show up at noon. In Mexico, time is more suggestion than commandment.

This isn’t about disrespect. It’s simply that Mexican culture prioritizes relationships over rigid scheduling. Things unfold when they unfold. Trying to force your sense of urgency onto that rhythm rarely works, and often backfires. Taking it personally is pointless. Complaining about it won’t change deeply embedded cultural beliefs and ways of being. Complaining about lateness or feeling personally offended will only hurt you, because from a cultural perspective, no offense has occurred.

The best solution? Build in “buffer” time. Don’t schedule back-to-back commitments counting on things to run on time. Use this time to your advantage by always carrying a book, podcast or magazine with you. It’s a chance to loosen your grip on control and start living a little more in the moment, like the locals do.

If on your travels you find yourself wishing things were quieter, more spacious, or more “efficient” … pause. Take a minute to recognize that the discomfort you’re feeling isn’t a sign that something is wrong with Mexico. It’s a sign that your cultural expectations are being stretched.

Take a breath and remind yourself: this is the whole point of travel…growth, expansion, and understanding.

The most meaningful experiences come not from controlling your environment, but from surrendering to it. From witnessing a culture on its own terms, not yours. From expanding your comfort zone, not policing everyone else’s.

Allow the experience with openness, curiosity, humility, and a willingness to be changed.

Because if you let it, Mexico will not only surprise you; it will transform you.

Huatulco

The Art of Belonging: How to Live Like a Local in Mexico City

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By Carole Reedy

Famed author Maya Angelou once said: “I long, as does every human being, to be at home wherever I find myself.”

Wherever we are, most of us yearn for connections, familiarity, and comfort. You can find these feelings even while traveling … if you are armed with knowledge and savvy.

Here are some tips to assist you on your journey in one of the grandest cities of the world. If you have the luxury, allow yourself time to wander, absorb the culture, history, way of life, and routines of the locals.

Before the more practical recommendations, let’s reflect on a philosophical perspective. Despite the hustle bustle of the city, take time to roam (or as my friends and I say “flaneur”) through the neighborhoods (called colonias) that sprinkle the Valley of Mexico. Don’t pack too much in a day, as traveling around the big city takes time and energy, too.

Enjoy the unexpected and unanticipated joys of the moment. Look up and around … at the trees, sky, and skyscrapers. There are surprises around every corner. If you are fortunate enough to come in March, the jacarandas will be in full bloom.

Be open to the people on the street and metro or while shopping. Unlike the French, Mexicans will welcome you even though your Spanish may be not quite correct, or even if it’s nonexistent.

If you are like other visitors to this bewitching city, your memories will remain vivid long after you depart. Here are some practical ways to make your sojourn uncomplicated and rich.

Greetings!

First impressions are said to be the most important, and none is more so than the first words out of your mouth when greeting someone on the street, entering a room or a store, or addressing a waiter.

Friends visiting Mexico City (Ciudad de Mexico) are often surprised at how, in this heavily populated city, people take the time to greet one another. Americans in particular have a tendency to always appear to be in a rush, speaking rapidly and without the formality of a greeting.

The first words out of your mouth when entering a room, a meeting, or store, or simply on the street, should be buenos días (good morning), buenas tardes (good afternoon), or buenas noches (good evening or night). Another useful phrase is just buen día, short for que buen día (literally, may it be a good day – Spanish loves the subjunctive).

A smile goes a long way and is always appreciated. Mexicans always take time for a formal greeting before the chatter begins!

Time and pace

No hay prisa is a good motto to practice during your visit, be it for a week or a year. Literally the phrase means “there is no hurry.” Although some actions and attitudes may be interpreted as “slow and lazy” by some foreign cultural standards, Mexicans are deliberate and formal in their manners, which is actually considerably more sane than the frenzied manners of many foreigners.

Mexicans are patient. Often you will see lines of people waiting for a service. No one is yelling or complaining. People just wait and chat, somehow knowing that stress, and therefore raising their blood pressure, doesn’t do anyone any good or make the line move any faster.

“Why is everyone always late?” They aren’t. The concept of time is different south of the border. If you are invited to a party at 7 pm and show up at exactly 7 pm or, God forbid, earlier, you will be alone and your hosts may not even be dressed yet. It seems that guests stroll in when they want, and everyone thinks that is just fine. Not to worry. No one else will! You won’t miss dinner. If you’re invited for 8 pm, you may not eat until 11.

You may notice that if a business advertises its opening at 9 am, employees may not show up until 9:30 or so. Banks that open at 9 am (an institution you may think would be punctual) may open their doors on time but the employees will just be strolling in and preparing their desks for the day. Go with the flow.

Most entertainment events do not start exactly on time, but they do make an effort to begin within the half hour. Movies do begin on schedule, as do bullfights. When you’re at a supposedly sold-out live concert and you look around 10 minutes before it begins, you may wonder where everyone is. Look around 20 minutes later, and you will see a full house. Arriving early is neither the norm nor fashionable.

Ahorita is the most confusing Spanish word for foreigners. Literally, it means RIGHT NOW. But it never actually does. It can mean anywhere from five minutes to two hours, or even tomorrow morning. If a worker tells you he will return ahorita, the fact is you don’t know when that will be. Take it with a grain of salt. He may as well be saying “who knows?” If you do need a definite answer, ask a more definite question.

My Mexican friends know our northern habits, and therefore they do try to arrive close to the designated time when meeting me. You may not be able to change your lifelong habits, but wait patiently, and if you are on time by your standards, enjoy the ambience or, as I do, always carry a book with you!

Transport, Traffic, and La Hora Pico

Mexico City has a fine public transport system used by millions of people every day. The most used and popular are the Metro (mostly underground) and the Metrobus, which is a bus with its own lane. Cars NEVER drift over to the Metrobus lane; the fine for disobedience of this law is huge. Ambulances are allowed though.

Both systems are easy, and both use the same card for entrance. The metro is 5 pesos and the Metrobus is 6 pesos (basically 25 cents in US currency). The cards are available at all metro stations. There are maps online. Plus, there are actually two apps, chock full of information: Metrobus CDMX and AppCDMX.

The most important information to keep in mind, however, is La Hora Pico, or rush hour. It is a horror in Mexico City, and even the person who experiences no form of claustrophobia may experience a small panic attack when you observe the crushing hoards in action on public transport.

The hours to avoid public transport or driving: weekdays 7 am to 10 am and then again 5 pm to 9 pm. This applies to all areas of the city. Arrive at your destination early and enjoy a cappuccino if need be.

Metrobus and Metro cars are clean and efficient. The first car of each transport train is designated for women, children, and the elderly. Please honor this, as all of us do.

City buses are available in many parts of the city. There are lots of bike lanes, and it appears more people use them daily. If you travel north in the city or far south you may see cable cars as public transport. In Ixtapalapa, the home owners paint creative designs on their roofs for the enjoyment of the cable car riders.

Do beware of bikes and motorcycles. They seem to believe traffic laws are not written for them, running red lights and essentially just doing as they please. Helmet laws are in effect.

If you are an Uber user, you should be quite content with the service here. The cars are clean and well maintained, unlike many taxis. The drivers are, for the most part, a delight and very often talkative, some speaking English. If you do speak some Spanish, this is a good way to practice. Strike up a conversation; they too enjoy practicing their English.

In every way, Ubers are better than taxis, including reasons of safety and the price of your journey. Do not enter a taxi that accepts only credit cards; it is a scam that will charge your card more than the actual price. I do have a taxi sitio (taxi stand) in my neighborhood that I trust, but for the most part Ubers are the better choice, an important factor being that you are not watching the meter run while sitting in traffic.

Ubers know the quickest and safest routes. You can call them right on the street as well as from a designated location.

Banking

Here are a few money-saving and helpful tips about ATM withdrawals.

First of all, to avoid fraud, always use a bank ATM. A big money saver is to refuse the rate of exchange the bank ATM offers you when you enter your card. Most ATMs provide instructions in both Spanish and English. Just press NO when it reads “Do you accept this rate of exchange?” That way you will receive the exchange rate of your personal bank, which will be assuredly less.

It is best to do your cash withdrawals during weekdays. The ATMs run out of money on the weekends and especially during puentes, three-day weekends.

The cost of an ATM transaction also varies by bank, so if you are not happy with the rate at one bank, try another.

You will always get Mexican pesos at the bank ATMs. Should you need US dollars, you will need to visit a casa de cambio (money exchange).

The Joy of Eating

With the more practical matters out of the way, let’s end with a short discussion about Mexican eating habits and protocols.

The grand capital is replete with restaurants for every eating preference and idiosyncrasy. You may feel overwhelmed when you look online for your favorite. So, here are some general options to narrow down your choices.

The meals. Instead of breakfast, lunch, and dinner, all of México enjoys desayuno, comida, and cena.

Desayuno is eaten before 10 am. Comida, the main meal of the day, begins as early as 1 or 2 pm and is served until 4 or 5 pm. Cena is a light evening meal offered from 7 to 10 pm. This is the habit in Mexican homes. Restaurants often adapt to foreign timetables for eating, and since restaurant times may vary, best to check hours on line.

Street food. To eat or not to eat? My guests’ favorite question, and my advice is benign: It is up to you. There are risks involved everywhere, but more so from street vendors. Often there is no running water in the puestos de comida (food stalls), and employees often handle money and food simultaneously.

The food is usually delicious, and it’s certainly quite cheap. Millions of Mexican workers eat it every day. I confess to eating street taco carnitas occasionally, even though I may experience gastrointestinal backlash the next day.

Market eating. Everyone enjoys the huge buildings that house mountains of fruits, vegetables, meat, and often household items. There are also small restaurants inside the markets. One of my favorites is Mercado Medellin (located in Roma Sur on Campeche and Medellin streets). The market has two locations for restaurants, so be sure to ask one of the vendors where to go.

Chains. Here are some unexpected spots that serve great Mexican meals.

The most famous chain store that also houses a restaurant is Sanborns, owned by the world-famous entrepreneur Carlos Slim.

To this day, the distinct dress of the Sanborns waitresses is famous, going back more than a century ago. Collector and dealer of folk art and archaeological artifacts Francis Davis was invited to open a Mexican curio shop inside the Sanborns Casa de los Azulejos, located in Centro. Davis designed a uniform for the servers and according to some, it was loaded with typical Mexican references. It adds such charm to the restaurant.

Sanborns has a good variety of Mexican food which is quite tasty and traditional. There are Sanborns shops located all over the city. There you will find books, scarves, pharmaceuticals, jewelry, perfumes, and electronics, with the merchandise varying from store to store. It is a practical place to shop, and it is a legend.

Another excellent chain for Mexican food is the Bajio restaurants. Like Sanborns, they are located all over the city. The food is outstanding with a good variety. I frequent the one in the Reforma 222 shopping center. Carnitas are a specialty.

Tipping. Waiters and waitresses receive very small salaries – thus they depend on tips. Some owners do not even pay a salary, the workers’ only compensation being tips. Twenty percent is traditional if the service is good. So please tip your wait staff.

Crème de la crème restaurant. Since I’m always asked about this, I will reluctantly address it here. Based on the reaction of my visitors and reviews, the best upscale restaurant is Rosetta, located in Roma Norte, with the Rosetta bakery, located on the next block, as the choice for the best cafe. Definitely the best pastry is the cafe’s Mil Hojas, covered at greater length in my article “Where the Locals Hang Out: The Unsung Treasures of CDMX” (February 2025).

Soak in the sunshine and joy of this city that is unlike any other.

“One never reaches home, but wherever friendly paths intersect the whole world looks like home for a time.” Hermann Hesse

 

Huatulco

Where the Locals Hang Out: The Unsung Treasures of CDMX

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By Carole Reedy

The comfortably trite expression “There’s no place like home” perfectly describes my emotion when, upon arrival, the airplane descends through the smog that covers my home of 15 years, and the hazy image of the Mexico City megalopolis comes into view. I’m a traveler whose favorite destination is a city, large or small, elite like Paris or scruffy like Naples. But with each trip and in my advanced years I appreciate returning to the wonder that is my chosen residence.

The lure of a large city is that things are ever changing, but one thing that doesn’t shift is the secure feeling I get while roaming the cracked sidewalks of my home city. (Mexico City was built on an ancient lake bed, into which it is gradually sinking, hence the craquelure of my walkways.)

Other sources of joy are the places I frequent, from street cafes and puestos (food stalls) to bookshops that haven’t changed much over the years. Here’s a sampling.

True Napolitana pizza
Come to Anahuac 38, Colonia Roma Sur, to San Giorgio Pizzeria for true Italian pizza. It was started by three friends who wanted to bring the authentic taste of Italian pizza to Mexico City.

The mozzarella cheese is made fresh daily and only high-quality,100% Italian products are used in the restaurant. Great variety in the topping ingredients will please all taste buds. The lasagna and cannelloni also will satisfy a taste for old-country cuisine.

The owners and employees work long hours to please their clientele. The restaurant is open daily from 1 pm until 11 pm. Take-out and delivery are also available.

Carnitas in a shopping center?
It’s not my habit to eat in a shopping center (I can hardly bear to shop in one). REFORMA 222 is the exception. Located on the city’s most famous avenue, where a select number of stores provide the familiarity of constancy, El Bajio restaurant on the ground floor is actually one of 18 locations in the city. It always surprises me that this eatery isn’t listed among the city’s best restaurants in the many tourist articles that crowd the internet.

For 52 years, starting with one location, the Degollado family has been cooking Mexican food that mostly hails from the states of Michoacán, Puebla, Veracruz, and Oaxaca.

The signature dish, carnitas (literally “little meats”), is pork, Michoacán style, which you can order by the kilo, with or without the fat (maciza), appropriately served with tortillas and garnishes. Be sure to ask about the spiciness of the sauces (¿Qué tan picante es esto?). Even if the server tells you it is un poquito picante continue to beware if you have a tender palate.

The rest of the menu is filled with Mexican specialties to suit all tastes. Another favorite of mine is tacos de lengua (tongue tacos). There are soups, main meat dishes, and a breakfast menu also. You will find many of your favorite traditional Mexican ingredients used here. You can’t go wrong in your choice.

Forego street tacos for the ambiance of Mexico in this attractive well-established restaurant, whose main publicity is word of mouth. Hours daily: 8 am to 11 pm.

Only duck tacos served here
Manila restaurant has a couple locations in the city, but I’m most familiar with the one in the Condesa neighborhood at Culiacán 91 (close to the major avenue Insurgentes). The small locale seats a few people inside at the counter and a couple of tables, as well as a few tables on the sidewalk in front. Nothing fancy here, just good food.

Only two varieties of tacos are served, but a side order of won tons is available. Beer and soft drinks are your beverage choices.

The tacos: the first variety is duck meat in a flour tortilla with cucumber and hoisin sauce. The other is shredded duck on a warm corn tortilla, with cilantro and chopped onion (my preference).

Like the other eateries mentioned here, the establishment is open many hours a week, beginning at 1 pm and closing as late as 11pm on the weekends.

Gypsy Pizza
Fifteen years ago while flaneuring in my new neighborhood, Cuauhtémoc, I stumbled across a tiny Italian restaurant on Calle Rio Neza 30 called Mezzo Mezzo. I returned with a friend who was enthusiastic about trying an unusual pizza on the menu called “Gypsy Pizza.”

Truthfully, it sounded awful to me, but wanting to please my friend I agreed to order it, figuring I could pick off the parts I didn’t like. To my surprise, the flavors of Brie cheese and figs blended perfectly. Now I take guests there as a routine part of the city tours I enjoy providing.

It’s not just the Gypsy Pizza that’s the lure, but a warm feeling of security that returning to a familiar restaurant or place provides. Now, 15 years later, I still recognize one of the servers. The wine list remains the same, and the prices have not increased as much as in the other, greedier establishments of this popular neighborhood.

The restaurant is quite busy between 2 pm and 5 pm on weekdays due to a hungry lunch crowd. Not to worry, as with several of my other favorite establishments here, the owners are accommodating, with hours seven days a week noon to midnight.

The most sumptuous dessert ever
This dessert is called El Mil Hojas de Frutos Rojos (Mille Feuille with Red Berries) and it is found at one of the most popular bakeries in Mexico City, Rosetta Bakery.

No doubt you have seen the publicity for the Rosetta restaurant (Calle Colima in trendy Roma Norte) and its renowned award-winning chef Elena Reygadas. The bakery is located just down the street.

First, it is a bakery where you can carry out the most interesting croissants, breads, and desserts, or you can simply enjoy them at the counter with a cappuccino. But there’s also a small outdoor cafe where excellent sandwiches are served. Only the highest quality meats, cheeses, and other ingredients are used in a Rosetta establishment.

The outstanding item here, however, is the dessert, Mil Hojas, available both by the slice or whole for special occasions according to the number of people you are serving. The cream and fresh raspberries nestled between layers of puff pastry and pastry cream combine to create a heavenly, not too sweet, taste.

Mil Hojas is French in origin. In 1651, chef François Pierre de la Varenne published the recipe for mille-fuelle in Le Cuisinier François. Don’t confuse it with a Napoleon. Napoleon has layers of almond paste instead of cream. Traditional mille-feuille consists of three layers of puff pastry alternating with two layers of pastry cream.

The Rosetta Bakery is open mornings starting between 7:00 to 7:30am. It closes between 9:30 and 10 pm.

The only criticism I’ve read on TikTok of this marvelous treat is the cost. Too expensive? Worth every peso, in my view.

Rio Lerma: The sreet of comida corrida
This is the street to visit to learn the true meaning of comida corrida, which is literally Mexico’s fast food. Don’t be fooled by the name. This is no McDonald’s or Burger King, but rather a healthy well-balanced meal usually consisting of four parts: soup, rice or pasta, meat or fish, and a simple dessert. There’s always a fixed menu, changed daily to accommodate nearby workers who frequent these restaurants.

Apparently the tradition of comida corrida started with the urbanization of the city during the “reign” of Porfirio Díaz. Workers traveled far from home for their employment and had little time to eat. The comida corrrida satisfied with a healthy and filling meal.

Sprinkled all along Rio Lerma starting at Rio Marne and ending at Rio Elba you will find several of these establishments serving traditional Mexican meals. Should your taste buds yearn for something other than Mexican, there’s also a selection of foreign food restaurants, from Uruguayan and Japanese to Italian. It’s a wonderful street for the curious traveler!

The most reliable recommendations usually originate by word of mouth or are discovered via flaneuring. Walking aimlessly is the manner in which I found these gems. I hope you’ll discover even more on your journey through this awe-inspiring city.

Huatulco

Three Thrilling Days in Mexico City

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By Marcia Chaiken and Jan Chaiken

We can’t quite imagine having only three days to explore the wonders of Mexico City. Even during decades of long-term visits when we enjoyed so many parks, museums, music venues, restaurants and theaters, it was sometimes difficult to select from the next available offerings. But realizing that you may not have the luxury of an extended vacation, we have selected two walkable sectors and a bus tour in CDMX as a possible limited three-day deep taste of the richness the city has to offer.

Centro Historico

The historic center of Mexico should not be missed. Almost all forms of transportation can bring you to the central zocalo (plaza) area (see the article by Julie Etra elsewhere in this issue). We suggest beginning at the beginning – the archeological Aztec site of the Templo Mayor (main temple, or Huēyi Teōcalli in Nahuatl). Walking through the remains and the museum that is run by the federal agency INAH (Instituto Nacional de Antropología e Historia) will help you appreciate the magnificence of the empire that existed in the 1300s. It was governed from the city of Tenochtitlan that was centered on this very spot – two hundred years before the Spanish invasion in the 1500s.

Leap ahead several centuries after the Spanish demolished this thriving empire – primarily through diseases brought from Europe – and across the zócalo visit the Metropolitan Cathedral of the Assumption of the Most Blessed Virgin Mary into Heaven, aka The CDMX Metropolitan Cathedral. This magnificent baroque structure, which opened in 1813, is a prime example of the persistent attempt of the Spanish invaders to supplant every aspect of the indigenous culture with their own, while using the wealth and physical strength of those whom they conquered to do so. The project began in1524 as a more modest church but over the following decades the plans for a cathedral developed with the involvement of the Pope. As you’ll no doubt find out on your tour, over the centuries, the architecture and furnishings became more and more elaborate.

We suggest then stopping by the ticket office at the National Palace to buy tickets for an afternoon entrance and tour. You might then spend some time exploring the handicrafts being sold by vendors in the zocalo. You’re likely to find some unique souvenirs. But perhaps more importantly, you’ll find that both the people and the crafts are a fine mix of the DNA and culture of both the indigenous and European people with modern ingenuity.

Once you’ve had enough of deciding which vendors deserve your pesos, we suggest walking the few blocks to the incredible cultural center Palacio de Bellas Artes. This is the home of the Ballet Folklorico, and if you’ve never seen them and your visit coincides with a performance, we urge you to purchase tickets at the box office on the first floor. Or find out what other musical performances are being presented that night either in the main auditorium (itself worth a tour) or upstairs in the small but acoustically perfect Sala Manuel M. Ponce. After purchasing entrance tickets to the upstairs art gallery, climb the stairs to continue your Mexican history education by studying the striking 1934 mural by Diego Rivera, Man at the Crossroads. Rivera basically incorporates his own view of the development of modernity in the details of this masterpiece. The other murals and art in the gallery are all deserving of discovery, but we urge you to spend sufficient time scrutinizing the Rivera mural until it becomes a permanent part of your memory.

You must be getting hungry by now, so head to the nearby Sanborns de los Azulejos (Sanborns in the House of Tiles, at Madero 4). You will probably need to put your name on a list to sit in the main dining room, but there is plenty to explore while you wait. One of the oldest restaurants in CDMX, and formerly an 18th Century palace, the architecture and artwork are enchanting. (And if your feet are beginning to blister, as in almost all Sanborns, there’s a pharmacy). After being seated, enjoy the ambiance, including many families with well-behaved children enjoying the dishes Sanborns has served for generations.

After you’re rested, watered and fed, wander slowly back to the zocalo, enjoying the sights and musical sounds of the area, and arrive the National Palace to view another Rivera masterpiece depicting the history of Mexico and other murals. In addition to the building, which has functioned as the seat of government for centuries since the time of Cortez, there is a garden within the walls which provides a quiet place for enjoying the plants and flowers and perhaps even a quick siesta. Had enough history? You might head over to the Museum of Modern Art – and stop by the always busy restaurant El Cardinal (next to the museum) to put your name on a list for a table for an early dinner before your evening performance at Bellas Artes. Or choose to visit the National Museum of Popular Arts and dine at the El Cardinal Alameda (in the Hilton Hotel Reforma, Avenida Juarez 70).

Chapultepec Park

You haven’t been to Mexico City if you haven’t been to the Park. Plan to spend the whole day. But before you enter the Park check out the National Auditorium ticket office to buy tickets for an evening performance either in the Auditorium or on the grounds of the Chapultepec Castle in the park. Begin your day in the park at the Museum of Anthropology (Paseo de la Reforma Avenue and Gandhi Street in the Polanco neighborhood). After buying your ticket, head right to the visitors’ services desk and ask about tours. The place is enormous and covers thousands of years, so a knowledgeable guide is useful for a first visit. If no tours are scheduled during your visit – don’t worry. Ask for a map of the museum and a suggested route. There will be videos and written explanations along your way. You are about to have an immersive experience of the many cultures that developed in Mexico while the Europeans were still painting themselves blue and literally living a hand-to-mouth existence. The artwork and crafts are remarkable, the religious practices well before the Aztecs are notable, and the opulent lifestyles of the royal classes rival those of today’s celebrities. And the variations between different times and geographical regions are well worth paying close attention to. If your head starts swimming and you need a break, there is a cafeteria with decent food and a lovely garden setting featuring, of course, huge artifacts from digs around the country. You could certainly spend the whole day in this museum, but most visitors find that four hours is the very most they can absorb.

Another rewarding visit in the park for plant lovers is the Botanical Gardens. There are over 300 botanical species, and whether you are a fan of cacti, orchids or dahlias, you will be delighted by the display. If you are more a lover of art than orchids, you have a decision to make. The Park’s Museum of Modern Art (MAM) has an interesting permanent collection, including works by Frida Kahlo, Diego Rivera, David Alfaro Siqueiros, and José Clemente Orozco. Our many trips to the museum have been for temporary exhibitions that have been serendipitously fascinating. On the other hand, you can head to the Tamayo Museum of Contemporary Art and blow your mind with over 300 paintings, sculptures and photographs by 170 artists that were collected by Olga and Rufino Tamayo.

Once you’ve seen almost more than your mind can take, we suggest a quiet stroll around the lake in the park. If you’ve selected an evening performance at the Chapultepec Castle, there are restaurants and carts with vendors selling a quick bite to eat before you climb the hill or take the trolley up to your performance. If you’re heading back to the National Auditorium, we suggest nearby El Bajio, always delicious and always busy – so call first to reserve.

Turibus

So … in two days you’ve walked your feet off and filled your brain with some of the best of Mexico City. For your third day, we urge you to take the Hop-on Hop-off Turibus around the city. We avoided taking the bus for years based on sheer snobbery, but broke down when one of our granddaughters joined us in CDMX for a week. The views of the different neighborhoods are lovely, the audio patter both educational and amusing, and places that are accessible (including the central historic area and the National Auditorium/Chapultepec Park) are a taste for your next trip to Mexico City. You might consider winding up your bus tour at the Soumaya Museum stop. The lovely little Degas miniatures on the top floor are alone worth a visit. If you are planning to do that, buy tickets for a performance at the Telcel Theater a block away. We’ve seen superb performances there of Broadway shows including Les Miz and the Lion King – in Spanish of course, but you already know the words. And for dinner before the performance, the mall Telcel Plaza Carso has a plethora of great restaurants.

Selecting places to visit in Mexico City in just three days is a challenge. We’ve had years of exploration and weren’t able to hit all the high spots. Still, we hope that, if you must curtail your time in the city, we’ve provided suggestions you will enjoy and will entice you to return.

 

 

Huatulco

5 Things: Coyoacan, CDMX

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By Frances López

1. Stay: H21 Hotel Boutique
This boutique hotel offers a modern yet cozy retreat in the heart of Coyoacán. With only five uniquely designed rooms, H21 provides a peaceful escape while still being within walking distance of the neighborhood’s attractions. Its blend of comfort and style ensures guests feel at home while exploring this historic area.

2. Eat: Los Danzantes Coyoacán
Located in a colonial-style building, this restaurant serves Mexican cuisine with a modern twist. Known for its innovative takes on traditional dishes, Los Danzantes is the perfect spot to enjoy mole, mezcal, and seasonal ingredients. Be sure to pair your meal with one of their expertly crafted cocktails.

3. Eat: El Jarocho Café
A Coyoacán institution, El Jarocho Café has been serving some of the best coffee in Mexico City since 1953. Locals and visitors flock here for their strong, aromatic brews and fresh pastries. The simple charm of this spot makes it a great place to start your day in the neighborhood.

4. See: Mercado de Coyoacán
Take a stroll through this bustling market. The food stalls are the star of the show, with a variety of mouth-watering dishes like freshly made quesadillas stuffed with flor de calabaza (squash blossoms), huitlacoche (corn fungus), and chicharrón. Don’t miss the tostadas stand, where you can try toppings like shrimp, ceviche, or cochinita pibil. Beyond the food, the market has traditional crafts, handmade jewelry, and souvenirs. Brightly colored piñatas dangle overhead, and the aroma of spices and fresh produce fills the air. Take your time exploring the aisles and chatting with friendly vendors, who are often happy to share their stories or recommend their favorite items. Whether you’re hunting for a unique gift or simply soaking up the lively atmosphere, the Mercado de Coyoacán is an unforgettable experience.

5. See: Jardín Centenario and Fuente de los Coyotes
The heart of Coyoacán, Jardín Centenario is a square surrounded by cafés and shops. The central fountain, featuring bronze coyotes, pays homage to the neighborhood’s name (Coyoacán translates to “place of coyotes” in Nahuatl). Spend some time here enjoying the atmosphere or catching a glimpse of a street performance.

Huatulco

A Walk on the Weird Side: Way, WAY off the Beaten Track in Mexico City

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By Deborah Van Hoewyk

Elsewhere in this issue, you will find great hints for how to see Mexico City at its best. But … suppose you’ve done all that? Or maybe … suppose you want to see what’s not so “best”? One of my sharpest memories of Mexico City is inveigling my hubby into an open front oyster bar (I’m a big fan of oysters on the half-shell) that had lively, loud music and cheap oysters. His memory is that it was a prostitute joint, the oyster shuckers were all drunk, and a few had cuts dripping blood onto the oysters. Oh, well. (No one got sick.)

If you’re in search of your own unusual experience in Mexico City, here are four such diversions.

1. How about The Island of the Dolls (La Isla de las Muñecas)?

Xochimilco is a borough in southeastern Mexico City famous for its lakes and canals that run among those famous floating gardens, or chinampas. At its Aztec height, the Valley of Mexico was filled with lakes and canals connecting various settlements – Xochimilco was a city in its own right. The Eye has published articles on the chinampas, notably the Chaikens’ July 2024 piece on “Aztec ‘Farm to Table’ Cuisine.”

On one chinampa in Laguna Teshuilo, sometimes called “Tequila,” there is no food grown. Once owned (or taken care of) by Don Julián Santana Barrera, who died in 2001, the island is now covered in “dead dolls” – disfigured, discolored, dismembered, dolls. Legend has it that Don Julián discovered on the shore of the island (or maybe floating in the canal) the body of young girl, drowned, and he was frantic with dismay that he could not restore her to life. A day later, he discovered a doll floating in the canal, assumed it was hers, and hung it on a tree to appease her spirit. A day later, another doll, another tree. Her spirit apparently not appeased, Don Julián began a life-long search for abandoned dolls to be placed throughout the island.

In 2001, when Don Julián was 80, he was fishing with his nephew off the shore of the island. He started to sing, telling his nephew that mermaids were calling him into the water. The nephew went ashore for something, and when he came back, Barrera was floating in the canal, dead, in the same place he had found the girl. There is no confirmation that the drowning victim ever existed, but Don Julián’s family saw an opportunity and opened the island to tourists.

You can visit the island by trajinera, the colorful flat-bottomed boats that ply the canals of Xochimilco. Go by Metro to the boat launch Embarcadero Cuemanco, in the southeast part of the city, and rent a trajinara – same price for all who will fit, about four hours, expect to pay about $100 USD and up, plus tip. Make sure of the price, and that the destination is Island of the Dolls before you leave. You can also rent a kayak at Embarcadero Cuemanco, go in a group with a guide, and expect to pay about $65 USD, plus tip.

2. Speaking of Xochimilco, how about its most famous denizen, the axolotl?

When the Aztecs developed their lake-basin city, the axolotl thrived in its waters; the Spanish eventually drained everything but Xochimilco, which became the axolotls’ sole habitat. While your chances of seeing an axolotl in the wild from your trajinera are limited (they’re not that big, much of the water is pretty dirty), they are fascinating creatures worth the effort to see up close and personal. The Eye has run articles on this cutie amphibian (see “I ♥ Axolotls,” by Julie Etra, February 2024).

Axolotls are amphibians, but they’re “paedomorphic” – they stay little kids, i.e., they don’t really metamorphose into land animals. Although they can walk on the ground like their relatives the salamanders, like Melville’s Bartleby, they would “prefer not to.” They keep their gills and stay in the water for life. They can be small (6 inches fully grown) to large (18 inches); some are pink and cute, others are an uninspired mottled brown. They’ve made it into feature films, cartoons, documentaries, the computer game Minecraft, and Diego Rivera’s paintings, not to mention onto Mexican money and a postage stamp.

Axolotls are an indicator species for amphibians, that is, their health and the health of their environment tell us a lot about the fate of amphibians in general – from flourishing to on the edge of extinction. Axolotls are of great interest in terms of medical research, as they are extremely good at regenerating missing body parts.

Unfortunately, pollution and competing invasive species in the Xochimilco canals have decimated the axolotl populations. Despite funding cuts for research and support programs under Mexico’s last president, Andrés Manuel López Obrador (AMLO, researchers at the Autonomous University of Mexico (UNAM) have undertaken restoration efforts. Working with the chinamperos (farmers), they have set up bamboo cages in the canals as “refuges” for axolotls, where their growth and health are monitored.

You can learn more about the axolotls at a couple of places. In the Chapultepec Zoo, you will find Anfibium, the Museo del Axolote y Centro de Conservación de Anfibios, a museum and preservation center devoted to preserving Mexican amphibians, especially the axolotl. Very Science Friday, for fans of U.S. public radio. Both the Zoo and the Anfibium are free; the Anfibium is closed Mondays, otherwise open from 10 AM to 3:30 PM.

There is also Axolotitlán, the Museum of the Axolotl, located in Parque Tarango, also called El Segundo Parque de las Águilas. The park is southwest of the city center – a taxi or UBER will take you out Prolongación 5 de Mayo to the park; the museum is at # 521. The museum is closed Mondays, otherwise open from 9 AM to 4 PM; apparently there are tours to Xochimilco to see the work being done there, although you would have to inquire.

On February 1 and 2, the Museo celebrates the Día Nacional del Axolote, with everything from academic conferences and documentaries to kids’ activities and muchas mas sorpresas! In this case, adults pay $100 MXN and kids $50 MXN to get in.

3. As we all know, Mexico’s politics are intertwined with violence. Early babyboomers may remember the Tlatelolco Massacre.

The year 1968 saw worldwide protests driven by left-wing politics aimed at reducing social inequality, upholding racial civil rights, supporting workers’ rights, and expressing anti-war and anti-military sentiment. Combined with the rise of a youth counterculture, demonstrations broke out across the western world (in the US, France, England, Italy, and elsewhere).

In 1968, Mexico was preparing to host the Olympics, and there was great concern about whether protests, ongoing since early summer, against the repressive PRI government would disrupt the event. On October 2, students from UNAM, the National Polytechnic Institute, and other universities, gathered in the Plaza of Three Cultures in the Tlatelolco section area of the Cuahtémoc borough in what was supposed to be another peaceful protest against the government. While it took years for the official documents to be released, there is now general agreement that the Olympia Battalion, organized by then-president Gustavo Díaz Ordaz for Olympic security, was signaled to close off the square by flares shot into the square from helicopters. There is less agreement on whether the Olympia Battalion had been instructed to fire covertly on Mexican soldiers, thus causing them to fire on the demonstrators. But fire they did, killing anywhere from 28 to 300-400 demonstrators and onlookers.

Memorial 68 is a museum that tells the story of any number of protests by the Mexican people, but it emphasizes 1968 and the Tlatelolco Massacre.

The museum is located at Avenida Ricardo Flores Magón 1, in Tlatelolco, near the site of the massacre. It is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. Admission is free on Sundays; otherwise, it’s $40 MXN, half price for students, teachers, and members of INAPAM (seniors), IMSS, and ISSSTE.

There’s also La Piedra del ’68 (The Stone of ’68), which commemorates the student protests of 1968. Unveiled in 1998, 30 years after the event, it incorporates a volcanic rock from the UNAM campus, with quotes from student leaders. You can find it at Eje 7 Sur Extremadura,in the Insurgentes Mixcoac neighborhood of the borough of Benito Juárez.

4. Are you into ruin porn?

“Ruin porn” is shorthand for the capture – by photographing, writing about, or observing – of urban decay. While travelers, writers, and painters have been “doing the ruins” since the Renaissance, this go-round is devoted to cataloguing the decline of cities as they abandon various areas in favor of something new. Basically, it’s an over-enthusiastic taste for detritus left behind when cities don’t clean up after themselves.

Mexico, of course, is rife with ancient ruins, and LIDAR (light detection and ranging) technology is finding more hidden in Mexico’s jungles every day. These are not the stuff of ruin porn. But, oh, the Desert of the Lions – no desert, no lions – is definitely ruin porn.

Ex Convento del Desierto de los Leones is the name of a ruined monastery – in this case, called a convent – and of Mexico’s first national park, where the convent’s remains are located. Built by barefoot Spanish Carmelite monks in 1606, the monastery was christened “desierto” for its distance from the center of Mexico City (although it lies entirely within today’s CDMX, in the borough of Cuajimalpa de Morelos), and “leones” because the Spanish were surprised at how many pumas, which they called “lions,” there were in the area. It might also have been called “de los Leones” because there is evidence that the Leon family financed at least some, if not all, of its construction. (It is referred to as a convent in part because the Carmelites were an order of both friars and nuns, although there is no evidence that there were ever nuns in residence.)

By 1810, the barefoot monks (think of the rattlesnakes, the scorpions, the tarantulas!) had abandoned the monastery. Already starting to decay from excessive humidity, and the monks’ desire to avoid being involved in the just-started War of Independence against Spain, El Desierto de los Leones served briefly as a military barracks, and then was left to what engineers call “graceful degradation.” There are those, however, who say the monks never left, and their spirits haunt the buildings and grounds.

President Lerdo de Tejada declared the area a national reserve in 1876, and President Venustiano Carranzo named it a national park in 1917.

There are any number of ways to reach the national park and/or the monastery, but you will need to be resourceful. The best way to is to take an UBER – it should be less than $10 USD and take about 45 minutes, depending on where you start. Be sure to specify you are going to the Ex Convento del Desierto de los Leones (the Convento del Desierto de los Leones is on the north side of CDMX), that you want to be picked up to return, and what time. It is possible to get there by public transportation, but the end stages are ever-changing. Take the metro to Barranca del Muerto station (line 7), whence you can take a bus to Santa Rosa, and then a taxi or walk – Internet reports say the number of the bus to Santa Rosa changes, where it goes changes, and sometimes it goes right to the park so no need for a taxi. There are other metro stations fairly close by, then use the taxi technique. Getting BACK by public transportation is an iffy proposition, make sure you find out how to do that when you are dropped off. There are organized tours that visit the convent, and hiking tours that include the convent and hiking in the park – they tend to be on the pricey side.

The former monastery is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. The admission fee is 20 pesos per person and allows access to the building and its outer grounds. There are food stalls at the entrance, so you won’t go hungry or thirsty. Watch your step to avoid rattlesnakes, and do not sample the mushrooms – the ones here are all toxic!

Huatulco

Things to See and Do in Mexico City

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By Jane Bauer

1. Soumaya Museum
One of the best museums in the world, its iconic, futuristic design, covered in hexagonal aluminum tiles, houses over 66,000 artworks. The museum features diverse collections, including pre-Hispanic artifacts, European art, and modern Mexican works. Admission is free, making it accessible to all. Named after Carlos Slim’s late wife, it’s a must-visit destination for art, history, and design enthusiasts.

2. National Museum of Anthropology
Considered one of the finest museums in the world, this is an essential stop to truly understand Mexico’s rich cultural and historical tapestry. Its impressive architecture leads to exhibits that showcase pre-Columbian civilizations, such as the Aztecs, Mayans, Olmecs, and Toltecs. The iconic Aztec Sun Stone and intricate Mayan artifacts are highlights. Set aside plenty of time to wander through its spacious halls and lush courtyards..

3. Zócalo (Plaza de la Constitución)
The heart of Mexico City, the Zócalo, is one of the largest city squares in the world and a hub of Mexican history and culture. Visit the Metropolitan Cathedral, which blends baroque and neoclassical styles. Don’t miss the National Palace, home to Diego Rivera’s monumental murals depicting Mexico’s history. The square comes alive during festivals and events, such as Día de los Muertos and Independence Day celebrations.

4. Frida Kahlo Museum (La Casa Azul)
Located in the charming neighborhood of Coyoacán, this museum is a tribute to the life and work of iconic Mexican artist Frida Kahlo. The “Blue House,” where she was born and later lived with Diego Rivera, is filled with her personal belongings, artwork, and fascinating memorabilia. The lush garden and bright blue walls create an intimate setting that provides insight into her artistic and personal world.

5. Teotihuacán Pyramids
Just a short drive from the city, the ancient city of Teotihuacán is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most significant archaeological sites in Mexico. Walk along the Avenue of the Dead, climb the Pyramid of the Sun for a breathtaking view, and explore the Pyramid of the Moon. The site’s history remains mysterious, with roots that predate the Aztecs, who later adopted and revered it.

6. Roma and Condesa Neighborhoods
Known for their bohemian vibe, these trendy areas offer charming streets, Art Deco architecture, boutique shops, art galleries, and excellent restaurants and cafes.

7. Vasconcelos Library
This “Megabiblioteca,” is a stunning blend of architecture and literature. Designed by Alberto Kalach, its futuristic structure features floating bookshelves, lush gardens, and open spaces that inspire creativity. Housing over 600,000 volumes, it’s both a cultural and architectural marvel. Named after philosopher José Vasconcelos, it’s a haven for book lovers and a symbol of Mexico’s dedication to knowledge and innovation.

8. Palacio de Bellas Artes
This cultural gem is an architectural masterpiece, combining Art Nouveau and Art Deco styles. Inside, the main hall is adorned with a Tiffany stained-glass curtain, and the upper levels house murals by renowned Mexican artists like Diego Rivera. The venue hosts performances ranging from ballet to opera, making it an epicenter for the arts. Even if you don’t catch a show, the building is worth visiting for its beauty alone.

9. San Juan Market (Mercado de San Juan)
Food lovers won’t want to miss this iconic market, famous for its wide variety of gourmet and exotic foods. You’ll find everything from fresh seafood and high-quality meats to exotic ingredients like edible insects. It’s a great place to try authentic Mexican dishes or even sample international flavors. The lively atmosphere and bustling stalls make it a feast for the senses.

10. Torre Latinoamericana
Once the tallest building in Mexico City, this iconic skyscraper is a testament to the city’s resilience, having withstood several major earthquakes. Head to the observation deck for stunning panoramic views of the sprawling metropolis, especially beautiful at sunset or after dark when the city lights twinkle. There’s also a café and a small museum to enjoy while you take in the sights.

7. Vasconcelos Library
This “Megabiblioteca,” is a stunning blend of architecture and literature. Designed by Alberto Kalach, its futuristic structure features floating bookshelves, lush gardens, and open spaces that inspire creativity. Housing over 600,000 volumes, it’s both a cultural and architectural marvel. Named after philosopher José Vasconcelos, it’s a haven for book lovers and a symbol of Mexico’s dedication to knowledge and innovation.

8. Palacio de Bellas Artes
This cultural gem is an architectural masterpiece, combining Art Nouveau and Art Deco styles. Inside, the main hall is adorned with a Tiffany stained-glass curtain, and the upper levels house murals by renowned Mexican artists like Diego Rivera. The venue hosts performances ranging from ballet to opera, making it an epicenter for the arts. Even if you don’t catch a show, the building is worth visiting for its beauty alone.

9. San Juan Market (Mercado de San Juan)
Food lovers won’t want to miss this iconic market, famous for its wide variety of gourmet and exotic foods. You’ll find everything from fresh seafood and high-quality meats to exotic ingredients like edible insects. It’s a great place to try authentic Mexican dishes or even sample international flavors. The lively atmosphere and bustling stalls make it a feast for the senses.

10. Torre Latinoamericana
Once the tallest building in Mexico City, this iconic skyscraper is a testament to the city’s resilience, having withstood several major earthquakes. Head to the observation deck for stunning panoramic views of the sprawling metropolis, especially beautiful at sunset or after dark when the city lights twinkle. There’s also a café and a small museum to enjoy while you take in the sights.

Huatulco

Public Transportation in Mexico City

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By Julie Etra

Pre-Hispanic Transportation
The original form of transportation in the pre-conquest city of Tenochtitlán, now modern Mexico City, was by flat-bottomed canoes called trajineras. It is unclear if there was any form of “public” transportation through the canal systems surrounding the island. Some of these canals persisted until about 1920 and continued to be used for commerce—particularly for transporting food and flowers—as well as for personal transportation. At the time, these canals and aqueducts connected the heart of the city to areas like Chalco and Xochimilco in the south. Xochimilco, and to a lesser extent Lago Nabor Carrillo, are existing remnants of the pre-conquest wetland system. Lago Nabor Carrillo, an artificial rectangular lake, is what remains of Lake Texcoco. It is hydrologically isolated, contains numerous wells, and serves as a water storage system for Mexico City.
The 20th Century
Electric trams, or tranvías as they are known in Spanish, began operating in the historic central part of the city in the 1900s. These streetcars were initially horse-drawn but were later modernized with overhead electrical lines while still using the original rail system. The Compañía de Tranvías Eléctricos de México took ownership of the city’s public transportation network in 1901. As automobiles became more popular in the 1930s, public transportation expanded to include an extensive bus system that served what were then considered the outskirts of the city, such as Coyoacán.
The newer Servicio de Transportes Eléctricos was organized in 1947 but did not completely take control of the system until 1952. Following the activation of the Metro system (see below), tram routes were gradually abandoned until the last urban tram—including the circuito histórico (historic district route)—closed in 1979.
In 1925, the wooden bus in which Frida Kahlo was traveling back to her home in Coyoacán was hit by a heavier metal tram, resulting in the severe accident that crippled the artist when she was only 18 years old.

The Metro System
After decades of relying on color-coded buses, the Mexico City Metro was first conceived in 1967. The first line opened in 1969, covering an initial route of 12.7 kilometers (7.9 miles). The system was built in response to the ever-increasing traffic of the mid-1950s, particularly in the downtown historic center, where it was often said to be faster to walk than to drive.
This rapid transit system is the second-largest in North America, following the New York City subway. As of 2015, it included 12 lines and 195 stations, with 115 of those stations underground. The deepest station lies 35 meters (115 feet) below ground. The Metro uses pneumatic (rubber) tires, which ensure a quieter and smoother ride compared to steel wheels. Many stations are named after historical figures or events, providing an educational experience along with transportation.
Engineering assistance for the Metro was provided by France, including the pneumatic technology. Construction occurred in seven phases, with the last phase completed in 2015. The design also accounted for earthquakes; rectangular structures were used instead of arches, which helped the system withstand the 8.0 earthquake of 1985 with minimal damage. During that event, the Metro was shut down to avoid electrocution and to allow for debris removal.
Excavation for the Metro yielded more than 20,000 archaeological findings, as well as fossils, including mammoth bones. During the construction of Stage 1 in the late 1960s, the Mexica Temple of Ehécatl was discovered near the future Pino Suárez station, requiring a complete redesign of the project.
You can buy a Metro Card at ticket booths and vending machines in the Metro station, from the machines in a Metrobús station, or from the ticket windows in the light rail stations. The Metro Card is rechargeable at those locations. If you have a Metro Card, you can use it for the Ecobici public bicycles – there are other ways to use the bikes, check them out on https://mexicocity.cdmx.gob.mx/e/getting-around/ecobici/.

Cablebús
Construction of an alternative public transportation system, Sistema de Transporte Público (also known as Cablebús), was announced on February 7, 2019, by then-Mayor of Mexico City and current President Claudia Sheinbaum. It began operation on July 11, 2021. This aerial cable car system features three lines and 19 stations, spanning a total of 24.75 kilometers (15.4 miles). It was developed primarily to relieve traffic congestion in high-density neighborhoods, although Line 3 offers scenic views of Chapultepec Park. The system is operated by Servicio de Transportes Eléctricos, the same agency that manages other branches of public transportation.
The fare is seven pesos ($0.34 USD), and children under five and adults over 70 ride for free. Tickets and prepaid passes are available at stations. Line 1 consists of 377 gondolas, each seating up to 10 people (weighing 75–80 kg or 165–176 lbs per person). The ride takes about 33 minutes at a speed of 21.6 kilometers (13.4 miles) per hour. Line 3 conveniently connects to Line 7 of the Metro system.

The detachable gondolas, manufactured by the Swiss company CWA Construction, feature foldable wooden seats that allow entry for bicycles and walkers. Ventilation systems are located in the lower part of the cabin, eliminating the need for air conditioning during the summer. Additionally, the gondolas include interior and exterior lighting, Wi-Fi, surveillance cameras, and anti-vandalism technology.
We plan to visit Mexico City in late February 2025 and will share our personal experience of using the Cablebús system. The views of the city from this modern, rapid, and efficient mode of transportation should be spectacular, especially on a clear day.