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The French Food Connection

By Marcia Chaiken and Jan Chaiken—

We love the food in Mexico. We arrive every year hungry for moles, dorado and huachinango, ripe papayas and mangos right from the trees, juicy piña, ceviche, and hamburguesa de pescado. But sometimes we have a yen for French cuisine — the kind we enjoy in Paris and throughout gourmand-pampering France. We want French food, not fusion — French-European, French-Mexican, or French-Vietnamese interpretations. When in Mexico City, this yen is more than satisfied by a meal at Au Pied de Cochon.

Au Pied de Cochon is one of several excellent restaurants in the Intercontinental El Presidente Hotel in the Polanco area. When we’re in CDMX for a short stay, we reserve a room at El Presidente not only for its location near Chapultepec Park and the National Auditorium, but also because of its ready access to our favorite French restaurant. The restaurant’s 24-hour schedule meet our ever-changing schedule, so we’ve been there for breakfast at 6am and late after-theater desserts as well as for lunch and dinner. One year, our stay at El Presidente occurred after surgery in a nearby hospital and coincided with Christmas. The Au Pied de Cochon staff was kind enough to set up a table close to the entrance that could accommodate a wheelchair.

Canadians often think that the Polanco restaurant is related to Au Pied de Cochon in Montreal. It is not. Nor is the restaurant of the same name in Geneva related. Only one restaurant is related — Au Pied de Cochon in Paris-to be more specific, the mother restaurant in Les Halles, the former central food market of Paris that existed for more than 800 years ago. The Les Halles restaurant is not as old as the market and was opened in 1947. It catered to blue-collar workers who arrived after their post-World War II shifts and was noted for its hearty onion soup and pork dishes including, of course, pig’s foot. Today the original Paris restaurant, as well as the Mexico City offshoot, is still noted for delicious onion soup but is much more upscale.

It was Grupo Presidente that negotiated with the Paris owners to open the branch in their Polanco hotel twenty-five years ago. Pork dishes are still featured, and the seafood platters are still an astonishing sight; but there are dishes that are suitable for those of us who do not eat pork or mariscos. The succulent coq au vin is indistinguishable from the same dish served in Paris, as is the duck in orange sauce. Fish fillets (red snapper, salmon, and sea bass) are perfectly prepared with delicious sides. The beef offerings are varied and each is excellent. And for those looking for a special treat, the lamb ribs served with peas are a truly French delight. The soups are wonderful, and the starters, including foie gras, are very imaginative. The desserts are extraordinary and by themselves are worth a trip to Mexico City. Our favorites are the traditional profiteroles and chocolate soufflé.

For almost fifteen years the Polanco restaurant has been under the direction of Chef Frédéric Lobjois. A native Parisian who reportedly fell in love with French gastronomy at age seven, Lobjois began his career in restaurants in Paris and luxury hotels across France. He was invited to join culinary teams in Mexico by several renowned chefs in CDMX and after several years of building his reputation in top restaurants in the city, he fortuitously was recruited by Au Pied de Cochon to be the Executive Chef. He is professionally well known in Mexico, especially for special events when he joins forces with other chefs to present extraordinary culinary creations. He wisely keeps his personal life off social media.

People living in or visiting the beach towns on the Oaxacan Coast need not travel all the way to CDMX for French food. For many years, Huatulco was the home to the French restaurant, La Bohème in many incarnations. We and other French food fanatics followed the owner-chef around the area. First located in a residential area between downtown and Chahue, then in a small out-of-the-way space in Santa Cruz and later, after a hiatus, on a main street in Santa Cruz, Francophiles could enjoy authentic French dishes. Alas, a few years ago La Boheme closed – seemingly permanently.

Currently (2026) those seeking French cuisine in Huatulco will find it at Bordeaux, one of the seven restaurants in the Secrets resort. Although she’s only been the Chef de Partie for ten months, Chef Livy Deysi has created a buzz on online dining review sites. Livy is tiny in stature but has a personality that fills a large kitchen and dining space. She was born in the town of Huimanguillo in the state of Tabasco and was raised in nearby La Venta. When asked if she cooked as a child, Livy laughed with an emphatic “no”. She found her love of culinary arts at age 16 in high school and then studied gastronomy for four and a half years at a public school in Tabasco. After studying and practicing a range of cuisines, she developed a passion for French dishes because of the complexity of the preparations.

Her first job after graduation was at Secrets in Akumal, Quintana Roo. She became a sous chef, and after 5 years in Akumal her talent was recognized. So at age 29 she was offered the position of Chef de Partie at Bordeaux in Secrets Huatulco. She is responsible for coordinating and supervising the Bordeaux kitchen staff in preparing the menu that is designed by the Secrets Executive Chef. Unlike some French chefs who are harsh and demanding with their subordinates, she acknowledges that her staff are experienced, and she welcomes their advice and suggestions. Personally, she enjoys cooking lentil ragu and preparing and presenting the Bordeaux offering of filet mignon with mashed potatoes and vegetables sautéed in butter. But for herself her favorite dish is escargot. Livy hasn’t had a chance to travel outside of Mexico, but when she has free time she heads to cooler climes with her beloved dog Maximus.

The Bordeaux kitchen is open to the view of patrons in the formal dining room. Although Secrets does not allow restaurant reservations, whether for overnight guests or visitors who purchase a pass, you can watch Chef Livy at work and enjoy the only purely French food in Huatulco by calling the concierge at Secrets and purchasing a night pass. The cost is about $120 USD per person and provides access to any of the restaurants, bars, shows and other entertainment.

We had hoped to include recommendations for true French restaurants in San Miguel de Allende, even though we have never visited one. There are several listed on restaurant review sites that appear to be more fusion or “French inspired” than actually French. We sent out a message to friends who spend extended time in SMA, resulting in no recommendations. If any of you readers are Francophiles with recommendations for actual French restaurants, please post them on the Eye website.

For those of you who are traveling to or through CDMX, we advise making an advance reservation at Au Pied de Cochon. Bon Appetit!

Drs. Marcia and Jan Chaiken have been married for 62 years and have published many justice system research reports together.

A Brief Overview of Slavery in Mexico

By Marcia Chaiken and Jan Chaiken

Slavery is one of the oldest human institutions. Archeological evidence points to slavery being practiced in Mesopotamia over 5000 years ago. Each year, our family (along with Jews all over the world) gathers to retell the story of our people, the Israelites, gaining freedom from slavery in Egypt in 1513 BCE.

Slavery has been practiced in every corner of the world on every continent except perhaps Antarctica. Mexico was no exception. Long before the Spanish arrived in Mexico, the indigenous tribes enslaved captives taken in ongoing battles. Forced labor was commonplace for producing necessities of human life – food, clothing and shelter. And once Europeans began to colonize the “new world,” indigenous populations here became a source of slaves for building towns and cities and plantations, and for mass cultivation of agricultural products such as sugar cane for world trade. The encomienda system (see Julie Etra’s article on page 26) legitimized this practice. However, the introduction of viral and bacterial diseases to which the natives in “New Spain” had never been exposed and against which they had no natural immunity, resulted in massive numbers of slaves dying or being left without the physical ability to carry out heavy labor.

From Africa to Mexico

Relatively small numbers of slaves from west and central Africa were then brought to the Americas from Europe by the conquistadores in the early 1500s. In addition, free Africans were members of the crews serving the Spaniards and Portuguese who claimed lands in North and South America for their royal sponsors. Soon, however, the transatlantic slave trade became a major commercial operation, capturing Africans and selling them as slaves in the Americas. It began in earnest in the 16th century, peaked in the 18th century, and continued into the 19th century. New Spain was the major territory in which these slaves were first sold. Between the early 1500s and the mid-1600s, approximately 120,000 slaves were shipped from Africa to Mexico to work in the mines, on sheep and cattle ranches, and on plantations – primarily sugar cane plantations. Four areas were particularly populated by slaves: the Veracruz ports and plantations, the mining and ranching areas northwest of Mexico City, the stretch of land south of Puebla to the Pacific Coast, and the Valle de Mexico.

Although the predominant “Gone with the Wind” myth of slavery north of the border portrayed slaves as well-cared for, singing as they picked cotton in the fields, in colonial Mexico the resistance to enslavement was graphically made known by relatively high rates of suicide and infanticide among the slaves. Mothers would prefer that their babies die rather than suffer the life of the slave. The first threat of a major uprising of slaves in Mexico occurred in 1537 in and around Mexico City.

This threat led not only to brutal public murder of the Africans who were identified as leaders, but also resulted in the use of extremely repressive measures to control slaves. Official proclamations issued in the late 1500s penalized slaves who were runaways to hundreds of lashes, castration or death. Throughout the first half of the 1600s, small groups of former slaves, who literally overthrew their shackles and often joined with equally outraged indigenous people, terrorized cities and ranches around the colony.

The Emergence of AfroMexicanos

Over the following decades the number of slaves brought from Africa to Mexico began to decline. Perhaps because of the insatiable desire for slave labor on cotton and other plantations north of the border, sales of African slaves in Mexico were reduced in favor of sales in the southern British colonies. By the mid-1700s the population of Mexicans who had African ancestry – free or slave – had primarily been born in Mexico. Mandated by the Catholic Church, marriage of slaves was encouraged. And given the disproportionate number of men among the enslaved people of African ancestry, marriages commonly involved male slaves marrying indigenous women. Their children were called, in the caste system of Mexico, zambos, and they were either enslaved or at the lowest rank of the social-legal hierarchy. Woman slaves were commonly violated by Spanish colonists without the benefit of marriage and their children, called mulattos, were also typically slaves or essentially the same low rank as zambos. Children of mulatto and Spanish parents were called Moriscos and were somewhat higher rank than zambos or mulattos; children of Moriscos and Spanish parents were designated Tresalvos and were the highest rank among those with African ancestry. Although the caste system was very rigid and patently based on skin color and ancestry, there is documentary evidence that even though they were still legally slaves, mulattos and their children with Spanish parentage often received instruction in reading and basic information about their legal rights. One right was to redeem themselves from slavery for a set price or to be set free when their owner died.

The End of Slavery

The 1800s saw a major development in the institution of Mexican slavery. The revolutionary leader and priest Hidalgo, often called the father of Mexican independence, declared slavery abolished in 1810. Slave trade was legally forbidden in Mexico in 1824 after the successful revolution and the formation of a new government. The institution of slavery itself was declared illegal in 1839; in practice, however, slavery was far from abolished for several decades. Yet, given the existence of communities in Mexico where slavery was prohibited, many slaves in the U.S. and adjacent territories fled to Mexico to live in freedom. Although New Spain set the invidious example of colonial development dependent on enslaving Africans and selling them for profit, once Mexico threw off the shackles of Spain, the government set the example of striking the chains of slavery from their citizens.

In the United States, slavery was officially ended by the Emancipation Proclamation of 1863, but the period that followed also saw a lengthy adjustment. Even today, the residual effects of the slave trade can be easily noted in demographic data about the locations of black residents in Mexico and the US. In the US, the Census Bureau has for decades tabulated and mapped the percentage of black residents in states, counties, and down to census districts. The maps show that communities having substantial black populations (as high as 80%) are still located primarily in Southern states with boundaries along the Atlantic Ocean or the Gulf of Mexico (where the trade ships made port).

Measuring AfroMexicano History

INEGI (Instituto Nacional de Estadística y Geografía), Mexico’s statistical agency, traditionally accepted the reality that the population was a complex mix of racial and ethnic backgrounds, and so did not attempt to collect data on individuals’ self-reported race. In the 2015 survey, however, INEGI asked whether people considered themselves black, that is to say, “afromexicana o afrodescendiente,” for the first time. The results revealed the residual influence of a centuries-old pattern of slave trade – this one in the Pacific. In addition to areas around Veracruz and Mexico City mentioned above, concentrations of AfroMexicanos were found in rural areas near Acapulco and elsewhere in the state of Guerrero, as well as in the state of Oaxaca. Although the number of AfroMexicanos is nowhere very high (averaging 2.4% in the entire country), these Pacific coastal areas revealed some of the highest concentrations: 9.6% of the population of Guerrero (9.5% in 2023) and 4.9% in Oaxaca (3.6% in 2023). Most of Oaxaca’s AfroMexicanos live near Puerto Escondido and Huatulco.

The origin of these populations with African ancestry along the Pacific coast was not the transatlantic slave trade, but the 17h-century slave trade known as the Manila-Acapulco galleon trade route. (The galleons were large, multi-story Spanish sailing ships that had previously served in warfare.) At that time, the Philippines were a territory of Spain, facilitating trade from Europe and Africa through there. Slaves from various sources, including Africa, were sold in Manila, and some of them were further transported to the Pacific coast of Mexico. Their descendants are the AfroMexicanos now living near the Pacific coast.