Tag Archives: Sports

Growing Up Escaramuza: My Path Through Charrería

By Ana Domínguez

My story as a rider began at age nine. I first learned to ride astride, using a standard saddle, and did not belong to any escaramuza—I simply enjoyed being around horses and riding.

Escaramuza means “skirmish” in Spanish, referring to a small fight or brief combat, but in a Mexican cultural context, it specifically describes a team of women performing synchronized, choreographed maneuvers on horseback, riding side-saddle in traditional attire, as part of the national sport of charrería (charro horsemanship). More than an equestrian ballet, it is a tradition that gallops with strength and color at the heart of charrería.

Charrería is considered one of the most complete sports, as it is practiced outdoors and engages every muscle in the body—from the moment the horse begins to move to the application of strength in direct interaction with the animals involved.

This equestrian discipline, unique in the world, represents the feminine expression of Mexico’s national sport: charrería. It is a visual spectacle that blends athletic discipline with the richness of Mexican folklore and history.

I had experience in multiple equestrian disciplines before becoming a high-performance escaramuza rider. I practiced show jumping and barrel racing. However, escaramuza fully met my expectations and became my sport.

Before the term escaramuza existed, there were women known as Adelitas or Soldaderas who participated during the Mexican Revolution—not only as nurses and followers, but also as brave combatants. They rode horses, led troops, and carried out heroic acts, showing strength and courage on horseback in both battle and military life. Alongside the charros, they were a fundamental part of the Revolution’s identity.

On the haciendas of that era, many women rode horses sidesaddle. This was not a sporting choice, but a social imposition: long dresses, etiquette, and the norms of the time required women to ride this way. However, this style of riding became the first expression of feminine horsemanship. Despite its limitations, many women developed remarkable skill in controlling their horses, maneuvering difficult terrain, and executing agile movements while maintaining the rigid posture society demanded. Unknowingly, they were laying the foundations of what would later become a formal discipline.

In 1921, the first formal charro associations were founded, and throughout the 1920s and 1930s, events and regulations were consolidated, giving rise to modern charrería. Although women did not yet participate officially, they began appearing in exhibitions during patriotic celebrations and regional festivities. The true starting point of the discipline came in 1953, when the first organized female groups began to be documented—groups that trained and performed mounted routines at charro events. These were exhibition performances, but for the first time, there was systematic work: uniforms, defined formations, regular training, and a shared objective.

During the 1960s, these groups multiplied and began to be called escaramuzas. By the end of that decade, it was common to see them included in the programs of state charro associations, although still without a formal rulebook.

Growth accelerated during the 1970s and 1980s, when escaramuza evolved from a purely visual spectacle into a competitive discipline. Teams from different states began training more rigorously, developing more complex maneuvers and seeking their own identity within charrería. This led to a decisive milestone: the publication of the first Official Escaramuza Rulebook in 1992 by the Mexican Federation of Charrería. This document formally established the rules still in effect today, including team size, required maneuvers, scoring system, penalties, attire, and the importance of puntas as a scored element. With this regulation, escaramuza transitioned from stylized performances to a formal sport.

From the 2000s onward, the discipline entered a phase of professionalization. Riding schools, specialized trainers, and youth and junior categories emerged. State, regional, and national championships— and the National Olympiads — incorporated escaramuzas as a core part of their programs. International recognition also grew, particularly within Mexican communities in the United States.

Finally, in 2016, with the recognition of charrería as Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, escaramuza gained a new level of significance. It represents not only a sport, but a living symbol of Mexican identity and the only space within charrería where women hold a leading role—affirming their strength, discipline, and historical participation.

Escaramuza charra is the only charrería discipline performed exclusively by women. It combines equestrian precision, group synchronization, and a profound sense of tradition. While it may appear visually like a dance on horseback, it is in fact a highly technical routine that demands absolute concentration, mastery of the horse, and perfect coordination among the eight riders that make up the team. Each team consists of eight riders, one substitute, a trainer, and staff responsible for supervising the horses’ welfare and needs to keep them in optimal condition, as they are high-performance athletes.

Each rider uses a sidesaddle charro saddle (albarda charra), — the traditional feminine style inherited from the 19th century. Despite this seemingly restrictive position, riders perform tight crossings, rapid turns, and complex formations that require leg strength, lateral balance, and constant communication between horse and rider. During the approximately three-minute routine, the team executes a sequence of twelve pre-designed maneuvers (suertes). These include emblematic figures such as the fan (abanico), the flower (flor), the strainer (coladera), the ladder (escalera), and spins, all performed at high speed and with minimal distance between horses.

The routine begins with the puntas, a controlled sliding stop that leaves a straight mark in the arena and demonstrates the horse’s responsiveness, often contributing crucial points to the final score.

Riders wear long dresses in the Adelita style or traditional charra de faena attire, and on gala occasions, china poblana or formal charra dresses. Each outfit is crafted in accordance with Mexican traditions while honoring the style of our roots. All costumes are unique, handmade pieces with intricate embroidery, sometimes using gold and silver thread, and distinctive designs that set each one apart.

These garments are designed to allow mobility without compromising safety. Although visually striking, they are strictly regulated: they must not include elements that could catch, must cover the legs, and must coordinate with the team’s colors. The charro hat—rigid and decorated within specific guidelines—not only completes the attire but serves as the most important piece, functioning as a helmet. Along with it, a single ponytail adorned with a matching bow represents the group’s identity. Boots, made of suede or leather, are designed to withstand the lateral pressure of the foot when riding sidesaddle.

The horse also plays both a visual and functional role. Quarter Horses are commonly used, breeds known for their speed, agility, and ability to execute tight turns. Their presentation is sober and elegant, with carefully groomed manes and tails to ensure a uniform team appearance. Saddles and tack (reins, headstall, bit, protective gear, saddle) are identical across the eight riders, reinforcing uniformity. Beyond aesthetics, the true value lies in training: the horse must respond smoothly, remain steady during long stops, and maintain a consistent rhythm while the rider performs technical movements.

While the rulebook is detailed, the most important scoring elements include puntas, suertes, synchronization, and presentation and discipline. The final score is calculated by adding earned points and subtracting penalties. While details may vary annually according to the current regulations of the Mexican Federation of Charrería, the essence remains the same: to reward impeccable technique and group harmony.

Today, escaramuza has national and international presence. In Mexico, teams compete in state and regional championships and in the National Charro Championship—the country’s most important event—where the best escaramuzas from each state face off to determine the national champions.

There are also competitions and special exhibitions outside the Mexican Federation of Charrería. Although not officially affiliated, these events have had a significant impact on the discipline’s development, pushing teams to pursue greater difficulty and higher performance levels. The growth of children’s and youth categories has allowed girls as young as four or five years old to begin training, ensuring the continuity of the tradition.

At twelve, I had the opportunity to join the Tuitán team in Querétaro, where I was trained by Miguel Ángel García Castro, a key figure in my development as a rider. I learned the true art of riding and became a high-performance athlete. With Tuitán, we won several tournaments in our category, and a particularly meaningful achievement for me was winning the 2019 National Olympiads, where we earned one gold medal and one silver medal, with me serving as team captain.

Later, I was invited to join the Chiapas charra team—an organization with a strong trajectory that allowed me to continue growing. Eventually, I received another call to join Escaramuza Charra del Pedregal in Mexico City, trained by Heriberto Sáenz Romero, an outstanding coach who plays a crucial role in the continuation of my career. It is a team rich in tradition, history, and presence within the discipline, where I continue to develop my craft and my passion. Being part of maintaining the competitive and athletic level of this team is a great responsibility for me as a rider.

Charrería has given me incredible fulfillment and unforgettable moments both inside and outside the arena—sensations that are impossible to describe, filled with adrenaline, emotion, and joy. I would not trade it for anything. For me, the bond you form with your horse is deeply special. Being in contact with horses is the greatest feeling that exists, it is absolute peace and an unparalleled connection. A horse embodies nobility, strength, empathy and is simply unique.

Open Water Swimming in Huatulco

By Randy Jackson

For me, the greatest thing about Huatulco is the variety of outdoor activities available: swimming, snorkeling, scuba diving, surfing, boogie boarding, biking, golf, pickleball, beach volleyball, pool volleyball, kayaking, fishing, paddle boarding, mountain biking, bird watching, and hiking. I’ve done all of these activities in Huatulco, but my favorite activity has migrated to open-water swimming. And what an ideal place Huatulco is for travesía aguas abiertas.

There are nine official bays in Huatulco and many more coves with beaches. In April 2022, I wrote an article for The Eye on swimming each of the nine official bays of Huatulco. Swimming in the different bays or coves is delightful, and swimmers can go farther distances by swimming between beaches.

Some Open-Water Distances

Based in Santa Cruz, I am most familiar with this area’s more common open-water swims. All of these are swims I have either done or heard of others doing:

● Santa Cruz beach: From the rocks on the west (below the Nirú Beach Club) to the cruise ship pier: 200 meters
● Santa Cruz Rectangle: From the rocks on the west to the cruise ship pier, out along the pier to the end, across the bay past the first green buoy and back to the beach: 1 km
● Santa Cruz beach to the first green buoy and back: 750 meters
● Santa Cruz beach to the second green buoy and back: 1.5 Km
● Santa Cruz beach to Entrega beach: 1.2 Km
● Santa Cruz beach to Chahué beach: 2.5 Kms
● Órgano beach to Maguey beach: 1.5 Km
● Maguey beach to Violin beach: 2.5 Km
● El Tejon beach to Chahué beach: 1.2 Km
● El Tejon beach to Esperanza beach: 750 meters
● Cacaluta beach, loop around Cacaluta Island and return: 2 Km

Some Swim Resources for Huatulco

Yair Santiago Ortiz is a swim instructor and coach based in Huatulco. He welcomes new clients and is fluent in both English and Spanish. He can be reached at (phone/Whatsapp): +52 559 185 1023.

Each year in February, an open water swim event is held at Santa Cruz bay in Huatulco. This event is available for ages 7 to 60+ with timed swim distances of 500 meters, 1.25 km, 2.5 km, and 5 km. Potential entrants can find Information for the event on the RenueVa Facebook page:
http://www.facebook.com/renueva.ac.9/.

Each February, Karlyn Pipes, a champion professional swimmer and swim coach, hosts a seven-day swim camp in Huatulco. For more information, visit her website: https://karlynpipes.com/huatulco-mexico-swim-camps.

Another open-water swim competition takes place at Santa Cruz Huatulco in October: http://www.granretto.com/proximos-eventos/detalle?id=11.

For general information about open-water swimming in both fresh and salt water, and a list of certified open-water swim events, check out the World Open Water Swimming Association (WOWSA, http://www.openwaterswimming.com/); they certify a fresh-water swim of six different lengths at the Zimapám Dam in Querétaro in October. The Open Water Pedia listed the top 50 open-water swims in Mexico for 2018-19 – you can Google each swim to see whether it is still being held
(www.openwaterpedia.com/wiki/Mexico%27s_Top_50_Open_Water_Swims).

Swimming for Physical Fitness

Swimming is an aerobic, cardiovascular physical activity that includes all the positive benefits of physical exercise, but swimming also has some unique advantages over other forms of exercise. Swimming is particularly beneficial for people with arthritis. Swimming improves the functioning of arthritic joints without worsening symptoms. Swimming is a form of exercise especially recommended for older adults, as it improves range of motion, flexibility, and upper body strength. Regular swimming has also demonstrated improvements in the mental health of all ages.

Blue Spaces

Many studies have shown that time spent in nature benefits our mental well-being and promotes the emotions of happiness and contentment. Urban environments, especially the winter months in northern latitudes, make interactions with nature difficult. That is less of an issue in Huatulco, where nature in its tropical splendor surrounds us. The greenery and flowers are part of the natural environment here, but importantly, the ocean provides, in abundance, the benefits of blue spaces. Blue spaces are natural environments where water (oceans, rivers, lakes, streams) contributes natural benefits to our mental well-being.

In his book Blue Mind: The Surprising Science That Shows How Being Near, In, On or Under Water Can Make You Happier, Healthier, More Connected, and Better at What You Do (2015) marine biologist Wallace J. Nichols, Ph.D., outlines the remarkable effects of water in all its shapes and forms on our health and well-being. Although there are many ways to attain Blue Mind benefits, some simply by being near water or listening to its sounds, swimming is the total immersion with nature and a way to enter the Blue Mind zone.

Swimming Movies for Inspiration

There are several movies that depict swimming as a vehicle of personal transformation.

NYAD (2023, available on Netflix)

Starring Annette Bening and Jodie Foster, who received Oscar nominations for Best Actress and Best Supporting Actress, respectively, NYAD is about the 60-year-old former marathon swimming champion Diana Nyad, who endeavors to swim from Cuba to Key West Florida, a swim she failed to complete when she was in her swimming prime at age 28. Based on Nyad’s memoir Find a Way: The Inspiring Story of One Woman’s Pursuit of a Lifelong Dream (2016), the film uses a line from “The Summer Day,” a Mary Oliver poem (1999) – “Tell me, what is it you plan to do with your one wild and precious life?” – as a catalyst to undertake such a swimming quest. Spoiler alert: she makes it (eventually).

The Swimmers (2022, available on Netflix)

This film tells the touching, true story of two female swimmers (sisters) who fled war-torn Syria, ending up on an overloaded migrant boat headed to Europe when the motor failed. Almost none of the migrants on board could swim, so the two sisters pushed, pulled, and dragged the raft to shore. One of the sisters went on to compete in the Olympics. Beyond the swimming, this movie is a heartfelt tale of the humanity of refugees, who risk everything to escape violence and persecution.

The Swimmer (2020, available through AEON Magazine):

A 12-minute video by filmmaker Thomas Beug about long-distance swimmer Stephen Redmond, both of them Irish, about the transcendence of swimming; he finds an “ineffable sense of purpose” in open-water swimming. Redmond is the first person to complete the marathon swimming challenge Oceans Seven, with swims ranging from 10 to 27 miles (16-44 km) across the English Channel, the North Channel (between Scotland and Ireland), the Strait of Gibraltar, the Catalina Channel in California, the Moloka’i Channel in Hawai’i, the Cook Strait in New Zealand, and the Tusgaru Strait in Japan.

The Swimmer (1968, available on Amazon Prime)

The story is of Ned Merrill (Burt Lancaster), who emerges from the forest wearing a bathing suit and goes to a swimming pool of some welcoming, friendly neighbors. He then embarks on a quest to swim across the various pools of his wealthy neighbors in a quest to “swim home.” As he goes from pool to pool, the neighbors become less friendly, and he slowly realizes things are not as he thought. He comes to face the failures of his past – based on a short story by the American author John Cheever.

Overall, I would suggest that most open-water swimmers don’t need much inspiration to go for a swim. Huatulco is a fantastic place to do that. Recently (March 8), I encountered a large group of swimmers while returning to shore in the bay of Santa Cruz. It was a swim clinic from Mexico City, spending a long weekend practicing in the warm waters of Huatulco. A long way to go for a swim, but with the delights of all the bays of Huatulco, it is well worth it.

For comments or contact, email:
box95jackson@gmail.com.

The Search for Self in the Outdoors: A Few Imperative Reads

By Carole Reedy

“And into the forest I go, to lose my mind and find my soul.”
― John Muir

Not every novel that studies human behavior takes place in an overstuffed-chaired drawing room over tea and scones or the dark halls of a long-hallowed university. The pursuit of happiness and thoughts of things past are often found in the wild seas or calm pastures of the natural world.

Here are a handful of books that conjure thoughts of a daring yet sublime existence outside the home, office, or studio.

The Flaneur, by Edmund White (2001)

In the 70+ years during which I’ve turned to the written word for pleasure and knowledge, without a doubt The Flaneur is one of my favorite books.

Flaneuring itself is a favorite pastime for many dreamers and observers of human nature and culture. The term “flaneur” was first coined by the 19th-century French poet Charles Baudelaire (1821-67) in his essay collection “The Painter of Modern Life” (1860). The flaneur is an observer, an explorer of the city and streets and is found in many impressionist paintings.

White takes us for a stroll through the myriad streets of Paris, home of the existentialists, poets like Baudelaire, the revered Colette, the famous Josephine Baker, and numerous museums. We never want the journey to end while walking with Edmund White. The goal? To observe and reflect.

There are details that can be discovered only while randomly and aimlessly walking the streets of a city. White describes this wandering as “that aimless Parisian compromise between laziness and activity.”

This is the Edmund White we have come to expect, who with each book gifts us pages of beautiful and descriptive prose, taking us beyond our self and into other worlds.

White has stated that the only thing Parisians will not tolerate is publishing a mediocre novel. I doubt he will ever prove to be guilty of that.

The Wager: A Tale of Shipwreck, Murder, and Mutiny, by David Grann (2023)

The success of this newly published story may rest partly on the popularity of the blockbuster movie Killers of the Flower Moon (2023), based Grann’s 2017 book that bears the subtitle The Osage Murders and the Birth of the FBI. Both The Wager and Killers of the Flower Moon depict actual tragic events that Grann has brought to our awareness.

The Wager is an adventure story that takes place on the high seas from Britain and Brazil to Chile during the 18th century. Human behavior at its worst and best is explored in this remarkable tale of the pursuit of a Spanish galleon filled with treasure … as well as the resulting shipwrecks. Heroes or thieves and murderers? It all ended in a court martial and trial that rivals a modern-day thriller.

The Shetland Series, by Anne Cleeves (2006-18)

Rich description of these remote northern Scottish islands is one of the delights of this Cleeves mystery series. Details of a quickly changeable climate color the text, allowing the reader complete immersion in the finely tuned crime story. Most of us feel compelled to get out an atlas to fully grasp the location and makeup of these surprisingly complex islands and their place in the historical and social context of the British Isles. Rumor has it that Shetland has had a desire to become a part of Norway.

This eight-book series (Anne Cleeves is also the prolific writer of several other series in various locations) stars a detective of Spanish descent, Jimmy Perez, along with a range of other characters who hail from the various Shetland Islands. Along the way we learn about fishing and knitting as well as the language and cultural differences of these communities.

I challenge you to guess any ending, which in each case provides the cherry on top of the author’s astute, carefully written, detailed style.

Dr. Ruth Galloway Series, by Elly Griffiths (2009-23)

The fifteen books that make up the Ruth Galloway mystery series become favorites of any reader who starts the first book, The Crossing Places. If you are anything like my friends, you will eagerly anticipate each of the following books in the series.

Ruth, an archeologist in Norwich, England, is beaconed by the local police whenever any human bones are discovered. If they appear to be recent deaths, the police take over, although somehow Ruth always finds herself entwined in the search for a solution to a perceived crime. If the bones are ancient, they become the impetus to investigate and open doors for Ruth and her archeological students, leading to discovering new theories about civilization.

The recurring characters in the book (Ruth, Nelson, Cathbad, Judy) will quickly become part of your friendship circle. The shifting environmental moods of the marsh where Ruth lives, along with the various surrounding English regions, establish a foreboding ambience for each of the novels, a perfect background for the eerie situations that confront Ruth (and her friends).

Open: An Autobiography, by Andre Agassi with J.H. Moehringer (2009)

Most autobiographies of famous sports figures stand out as nothing more than facts and statistics about the sport with some color added regarding contributing characters.

This history, written by the controversial tennis star Andre Agassi (with ghostwriter J.H. Moehringer), breaks that mold.

Agassi opens his heart and soul to the reader as if he were sitting in a psychiatrist’s office. The pressure from his father an early age to play tennis permeates every decade of his life. Without revealing too much, I leave it to the reader to follow this emotional journey.

Tom Lake: A Novel, by Anne Patchett (2023)

Patchett has drawn on a vast repertoire for the subjects, locations, and characters of her previous novels. My favorite is one of her first, Bel Canto: A Novel (2001), which transplants the reader to a country in South America where an opera singer finds herself in a hostage situation at a birthday party for a Japanese businessman.

Since then, Patchett has explored a variety of scenarios. In this, her latest, a cherry orchard in northern Michigan provides the setting for a family saga that takes place during the COVID pandemic. A family of parents and their three grown daughters find themselves saving the family business by coming together to harvest the cherries. Over the course of months, they learn more about one another, especially about the mother’s life before her marriage to their father.

This is a sweet book, suspenseful enough to keep the reader’s curiosity piqued throughout. Unsurprisingly, you may not be able to stop thinking of Anton Chekhov’s classic 1903 drama, The Cherry Orchard.

Happy April reading!

Outdoor Pursuits over Eighty

By Marcia Chaiken and Jan Chaiken

We visited Mexico off and on beginning in 1980, and we’ve spent several months in Huatulco most years since 2001. Needless to say, we were considerably younger then. Our outdoor pursuits on the Oaxacan Coast required stamina and strength – hours of continuous snorkeling, hikes up and down steep trails, and long drives in our 4-wheel-drive SUV along bumpy roads that turned into river beds and ended at deserted beaches. We enjoyed every minute of such activities. But when we reached age 80, some vigorous activities began to result in more pain than pleasure. You’ll be glad to hear that we adapted and now find that many of the activities we’ve always enjoyed can be carried out from a comfortable seat on a patio overlooking a garden and the ocean.

Exploring botanical life

The coastal plant life, especially the cacti and agaves, always interested us. But now we can sit still long enough to observe the differences in the varieties and the fascinating ways they react to seasonal and daily changes. The cacti near our condo’s patio range from low-growing barrel shapes – with different arrangements of spines covering their green flesh – to amazingly tall trees with thick needle-covered mazes of branches reaching 20 or more feet (over 6 meters) into the sky. During the highest winds, the barrels hunker down and seem absolutely impervious, while the tall cacti stand firmly in place but gently sway – each branch in its own rhythm.

The rosette-shape agaves with their multiple spear-shaped leaves range in our garden-view from about 2-feet (60 centimeters) in height to over 5-feet. Their colors are primarily green but some are the palest green on the palette while other are the darkest green hue – and others are every green shade in between. When the winds sweep off the ocean, the agaves shimmy. Yes, not shake but actually shimmy. In a kind of optical illusion, by staring at one of the agaves you can “see” the leaves on the right continuously rotating to the right and down like a wheel, with the leaves on the left a mirror image — a movement which is not possible but is mesmerizing.

The agaves randomly produce buds and flowers. Some of the agave flowers appear startlingly overnight. Long stems emerge from the rosette and then are topped by bright yellow flowers. The flowering is very rare and usually signals the end of the plant’s life cycle. We also can observe low-growing succulents (Stapelia Gigantea) that usually are not worthy of mention. But after a recent unexpected overnight deluge, they produced an amazing huge starfish-shaped cream-colored flower, so large as compared to the usual size of the plant that the overall impression was of a miracle.

The cacti in our closely observed garden produce fruit at a specific season on a particular day. When that day occurs, the call goes out from all the local birds — and suddenly the cacti are covered with feathered fellows that are every color of the rainbow. Which brings us to our next pursuit.

Bird watching

We have our own unscientific names for groups of birds that keep us continuously entertained: strutters, flitters, and high-fliers. Two types of strutters parade across the garden in the early morning, the small brownish-grayish doves coo as they strut like chickens, occasionally stopping for a tasty bug treat. The large ungainly chachalacas resemble turkeys (and some local residents prepare them to eat as one would a turkey) as they march in front of us calling their friends with an excessively loud squawking chatter.

The high-fliers include three varieties of vulture – one uglier than the other– that appear in circles above a land area where some animal has died. We should be grateful that they clear the land of carrion – but actually we’re happy to see a decrease in their numbers in our visible skies, as the surrounding jungle is gradually being cleared and humans are replacing reptiles and rodents. Fortunately, sufficient trees remain for the pairs of nesting osprey that fly gracefully high above all day, emitting tiny little chirps unsuitable for such large birds. The pelicans, which can be seen fishing in the ocean by themselves or in small groups, flock together around sunset and present incredible geometric patterns as they circle the bay on the way to their nighttime arboreal campgrounds. And shortly after sunset when the sky becomes pink, peach, or rose, the swallows amass, flying by at first in a vanguard of ten or twelve and later in scores filling the sky.

The flitters include an incredible spectrum of song birds and strident screamers, ranging from the tiny nondescript cactus wrens that nestle down between agave leaves to the beautiful deep-marked blue, black and white screaming magpie jays. Each day brings different species – woodpeckers, flycatchers, orioles, buntings, hummingbirds. There are over 100 species of birds in our area. Many birders visit Huatulco, arise early in the morning, drive to parks armed with binoculars and bird books, and follow guides up trails or through jungle areas to complete their checklists. That’s fine for the under-80 crowd. But we pursue a similar passion with a cup of coffee or a glass of wine in hand on an ocean-view patio. Moreover, rather than merely checking a name off a list, we can observe details of the fascinating commensal relationship between birds and plants, such as golden-cheek woodpeckers who clean insects that are visibly attacking cacti.

Bonding with other animal life

While one of us has always avoided boats except to admire them, the other has long pursued whale-watching, all the way from the northern reaches of the Atlantic to both hemispheres of the Pacific. However, one of the greatest dangers for those over 80 is the possibility of falling, and small whale-watching boats are not particularly stable. Now we have found there is no reason to give up the joy of watching these incredible fellow mammals. We are always scanning the ocean surface for a sudden telltale spray of water. And a few times a week this scanning leads to the delight of watching the antics of one or more whales. Sometimes a solitary whale will swim in circles with one fin extended looking like he or she is waving a beckoning hello. Baby whales playing are adorable as they dive and bob up around each other, obviously paying no attention to the nearby adults guarding them. And one can never tire of watching a whale breaching or fluking – until numerous boats show up.

We can frequently watch whales for twenty minutes or more but invariably the human call goes out – “whale there,” and small boats gather from all directions surrounding the playful giants. It’s amazing that these gentle behemoths don’t simply knock the human pests out of their protective shells. But instead, they usually watch the boats for a few minutes, dive deep, and disappear from view.

Iguanas are another source of outdoor entertainment. Watching a heavy fellow climb a tree on branches more slender than his tail, then reach out to chomp on tender leaves, while the branches bend and sway under the pressure from his meaty body is remarkable. They never seem to fall since they use their tails to cling and balance. And although a friend claims iguanas have no maternal instinct because their babies hatch from eggs, we’ve watched a baby iguana feeding off low growing plants while a female circles protectively around the baby until it was time to leave and she nudged it in the right direction.

Human aquatic behavior is also interesting. Name the type of water vehicle humans use to stay afloat on the ocean and you can probably witness it from Huatulco. A few times a month, usually around dawn, large aquatic cities (aka cruise ships) make their way to dock in Santa Cruz. They seem to spawn smaller human water toys, since a few hours later the water in the surrounding bays often is disturbed by water jet skis and wave runners. Usually, shortly before sunset, the deep blast of the cruise boat’s horn warns passengers to be back on board and later we are alerted by another horn to watch the ship being tugged slowly back out to sea, where from our patio we can see it slowly make its way through the channel and off to its next port.

Even when the cruise ship dock is vacant, the two nearby marinas launch fishing boats, “booze” boats for tourists, bay tour and snorkeling boats, graceful sail boats, catamarans, luxurious yachts, and a plethora of outboard pangas. On the sea horizon, full oil tankers make their way from the refineries in Salina Cruz to cities upcoast and back again with empty containers. Marines stationed at the nearby Mexico Naval base train in military boats of a spectrum of sizes and purposes. For a basically terrestrial species without gills or tails, we humans collectively spend much of our time on the water. That pattern is interrupted only when the winds blow hard, the waves turn white capped, the ocean color deepens to an ominous dark hue and the local marinas close.

Tuning into the rhythms of the world

As we age, we become acutely aware of natural cycles. There’s no place better for observing these cycles for the over-80 folks than the Oaxacan coast. From our outdoor patio theater we can watch the ebb and flow of the waves, especially remarkable at full moon and new moon when the waves smashing on the rocks below and islets at a distance reach the limits of their height. Storms at sea are literally awesome with high winds that toss about flora and fauna – including us.

We marvel at each miraculous sunrise and sunset – no two are the same. At night, as the sky turns from deep red or pink or peach to star-studded black, the distant lighthouse, El Faro, begins signaling “dangerous shoals” to passing ships, inspiring another outdoor pursuit – creating Haiku.

Quantified darkness
Light beams swirl from El Faro
Illuminate all

Neighbors have suggested many other outdoor pursuits suitable for adults of all ages: star-gazing, wine-tasting, cocktail mixing, reading in the shade of an umbrella, barbecuing, and one “off-patio” pursuit that we hope never to give up – aqua exercise. But whatever floats your boat, the basic message is the same: when you are over 80, your mobility and stamina may well change, but your zest for outdoor pursuits can remain the same.

Lorena Ramírez: Top Runner of the Rarámuri

By Julie Etra

Who is this Lorena Ramírez? And why are she and her people such exceptional runners? To understand why Lorena and her family are so exceptional, we first need to understand who they are and where they come from.

Who Are the Rarámuri?
First, a little background. The Rarámuri, or Tarahumara as the Spanish called them, live in the Barrancas del Cobre (Copper Canyon) in southwestern Chihuahua, a state in Northern Mexico; in 2017, there were about 120,000 Rarámuri.

The word rarámuri means “foot runners” in their language (rara = “foot,” muri = “to run”), which follows their ancient tradition of running “on winged feet.” Now mostly confined to the Copper Canyon, the Rarámuri had previously occupied much of Chihuahua, but sought refuge from the invading Spanish in the 16th century. The majority still practice a traditional mostly self-sufficient lifestyle, using little technology, cultivating traditional crops and many, like the Ramírez family, raising livestock. Their homes in the canyons can be pretty basic; some families live in caves or cliff overhangs. They also produce lovely basketry, for sale at major tourist destinations in Chihuahua like Divisadero and Creel.

When Rarámuri runners head off for ultra-distance runs, their choice of sustenance is not energy bars or electrolytes, but rather pinole (a maize-based powder used in a variety of recipes) and tortillas, and they don’t train for these events in any typical sense. Despite their storied fame as endurance runners, they have only recently gained attention on an international scale, competing against world-renowned runners.

As part of a traditional rarájipari event, which is largely spiritual, the male competitors kick a komakali, a baseball-sized wooden ball. The women may compete in a race called ariwete, using hooked sticks to flick a hoop as they run. Although the Rarámuri hunt with bow and arrow, and (rarely) firearms, anthropologists believe the tradition of running may have evolved from “persistence hunting,” with the prey – particularly deer and turkeys – pursued on foot until the animal collapses from exhaustion or heat stroke. Anthropologists have also concluded that running has both social and spiritual significance for the Rarámuri.

The Copper Canyon

The canyon actually consists of six distinct canyons – Urique, Sinforosa, Copper, Tararecua, Batopilas, and Oteros – within the Sierra Madre Occidental (literally, the western mother mountain range). Together, they cover 65,000 sq. km. (±25,000 sq. mi.), more than four times the surface area and almost twice as deep as the Grand Canyon in the US state of Arizona. The average altitude is 2,275 meters (±7,465 ft) above sea level; the highest point, Cerro del Mohinora, is 3,306 meters (±10,845 ft.) and the lowest point, at the confluence of the Septentrion and Chínipas Rivers, is around 220 meters (±725 ft.). The average yearly rainfall is 38 cm (±15 inches). The topography is dramatic, with rocky outcrops and vertical, sheer slopes, and has been described as one of the most extreme landscapes in the world.

With the exception of the very bottom of the canyons the rocky formations resulted from explosive volcanic ash flows, ash falls, and mudflow breccias (sharp-angled rocks cemented together), all deposited approximately 20 to 40 million years ago and subsequently carved into canyons by the six rivers that drain from the western flank of the mountains, merging into the Rio Fuerte which flows into the Gulf of California in the state of Sinaloa. The Batopilas River flows through the bottom of the Batopilas (= place of the closed-in waters) Canyon; the small community of Batopilas was founded in 1708 when a large silver ore deposit was discovered by the Spanish explorer José de la Cruz. Although there is a reddish-copper hue in the geologic formations, the area was, and still is, mined primarily for silver and to a lesser extent, gold. Mexico is the largest silver-producing country in the world.

El Chepe

The Copper Canyon is remote, and access to the bottom of the canyon is poor; there are no paved roads and the few dirt roads are not well maintained. After many years of planning and construction, starting in 1861, interrupted by the Mexican Revolution (1910-21), and completed a century later in 1961, the Ferrocarril Chihuahua al Pacifico (Chihuahua-Pacific Railway) runs 650 km (±400 miles from Creel in the Canyon to the coast at Los Mochis. The train is called El Chepe (a contraction of Chihuahua al Pacifico), and crosses 37 bridges and travels through 86 tunnels.

The trip is particularly spectacular between Los Mochis and Divisadero. Vegetation is diverse due to the highly variable topography, with oak/pine/fir woodlands dominating at the higher elevations and herbaceous pastures in the riparian areas deep in the canyons, accompanied by subtropical vegetation. Species of agave and cactus dot the landscape in the rocky habitat. El Chepe recently added a new luxury train, mostly intended to accommodate tourists; it features a bar car with panoramic views.

María Lorena Ramírez Hernández

María Lorena Ramírez Hernández, better known as Lorena Ramírez, is a remarkable indigenous marathon runner who gained worldwide renown in 2017 after winning two gold medals in tough Mexican mountain races. One medal was for the UltraTrail Cerro Rojo in the state of Puebla (just over 50 km [±31 mi]), which she ran in 7 hours, 20 minutes, barefoot; the other gold medal was for the UltraMaratón de los Cañones, a brutal 100 km (±62 mi) in Guachochi, Chihuahua, near where she was born. Her time was 12:44:25. She had won the silver medal in the UltraMaratón in 2016, and went on to win a silver in the Ultramaratón Caballo Blanco, in Urique, Chihuahua, in 2018. In 2023, she placed first in the Ultratrail Sierra del Laurel in Calvillo, Aguascalientes, a distance of 42 km (±26 mi) in 5:58:17.

In June of 2017, on the heels of her two gold medals, Lorena became the first Rarámuri woman to compete in a European ultra. The Ultramaratón de Cajamar Tenerife, the “Bluetrail,” is the second-highest race in Europe and a distance of 102 km. (63 mi.). She placed third in 20:11:37.

A Family of Runners

The Ramírez family lives in Guachochi, an isolated valley with no neighbors in the bottom of the canyon. Lorena and her siblings Juanita, Talina, Mario, and Antonio walk five hours to the nearest school and four hours to the nearest grocery. Her brothers attended school while she and her sisters tended to the goats, the center of their pastoral life, while also cultivating corn, beans, squash, and greens among other crops on their farm. The family are for the most part self-sufficient. A perennial creek runs through their property, providing a clean source of water. The women of the family sew their own traditional dresses – Lorena dons a lighter version of the traditional skirt when she competes.

Lorena’s father, Santiago Ramírez, took her to compete in her first race of 7 km (4.3 mi) in the municipality of Cuauhtémoc, Chihuahua, which she won, having no idea of her capabilities at the time. Although she never dreamed of being a runner or marathoner, she was born into it. She comes from a family of runners, as they run everywhere around their rural property. Her father has won the Ultramaratón de los Cañones three times, the brutal 102-km cross country trail that gave her that second gold medal.

The Ramírez family members have won various races without the government’s help, commercial sponsorship, or professional training; they have achieved success due to their talent, perseverance, and lifestyle, which is very physical. To support travel to various events, they receive donations through their Facebook page:
http://www.facebook.com/mario.ramirez.71066700.

When Lorena first started winning races, she and her family saw the prize money as a way to buy food. They have moved on – in 2019, when she was 22, she was profiled in the excellent 2019 Netflix documentary Lorena, Light-Footed Woman. The executive producer for this 30-minute documentary was the well-known Mexican actor, director, and producer Gael García Bernal (If you have never seen his breakout movie Y tu mamá también [2001], do so. Playa Cacaluta makes a cameo appearance). In 2019, Lorena was also the cover story in Vogue Mexico; in June 2022, she began marketing her brand of running outfits, called Lorena imparable (unstoppable Lorena).

Quiet and unassuming, Lorena says she does not think about anything when she runs, that it just feels good, and she stays focused on the objective of the race: getting to the finish line.

Upon receiving a gift of high-tech running shoes, she rewrapped them, placed the box back in the plastic bag and explained “I don’t think I will use them. The people who do are always running behind me.”

The next Ultramaratón de los Cañones will take place on July 5-7, 2024. Vamos a ver – We shall see.

An Eye on 2024 Olympians

By Marcia Chaiken and Jan Chaiken

The 2024 Summer Olympic Games in Paris, planned for July 28-August 11, will provide an opportunity to watch and cheer for 32 Mexican women at the top of their games. More than a few have been competing for decades and are determined to medal. They will be competing in 16 sports. Two Mexican teams in particular are worth attention – artistic swimming (with eight women) and gymnastics (also eight). Since Mexico has not taken home any medals in these team sports in past Olympics, a win would be especially meaningful and a cause for national celebration.

Swimmers

Although Mexico has never medaled in Olympic artistic swimming (aka synchronized swimming), the recent performance of the current team has raised high hopes. This is the first time since 1996 that the whole team qualified for the Olympics. The team won the gold medal in the Pan American games in Chile in 2023. And team member Itzamary Gonzalez along with her partner won a silver medal in the 2023 World Championship for their beautiful duet.

Other team members to watch in Paris who have previously medalled, albeit not in the Olympics, are 33-year-old Nuria Diosdado, one of the team captains, who has been performing since her early teens, and her award-winning duet partner Joana Betzabe Jiménez García, who is 30 years old.

Gymnasts

The Mexico Rhythmic Gymnastics Team will be appearing for the first time in the Paris Olympics. Members Julia Gutiérrez, Ana Flores, Kimberly Salazar, Adirem Tejeda, and Dalia Alcocer were overjoyed to win the silver medal at the 2023 Pan American games. Rhythmic Gymnastics (aka ribbon dancing) has been part of the Olympics since the Los Angeles games in 1984. The competition will be fierce, especially from the members of the teams from Eastern Europe – Russian gymnasts have garnered more medals in the sport than those of any other country. A medal for Mexico would not only be a first but miraculous. In the last Olympics, Israeli gymnast Linoy Ashram snatched the gold from the Russians – so it would not be impossible for the Mexican team to do the same.

A Sailor

A medal in sailing would also be a first for Mexican women. Sailor Elena Oetling Ramírez, a 31-year-old Olympian from Chapala, Jalisco, will be racing against the odds in the Laser Radial class, single-handedly piloting a light-weight single-masted dinghy – her specialty. She was named the top sailor in Mexico after competing in the 2020 World Cup regatta in Miami, but her showing in the 2020 Olympic games in Tokyo was less than stellar and she wound up in 32nd place. Honing her skills in the following years in the yacht club in Puerto Vallarta, she finished in 6th place in the 2023 Pan American Games. In Paris, she’ll be competing against sailors from Great Britain and Australia who have garnered multiple Olympic medals in this water sport, and against women from China and the Netherlands, both of whom have earned more than one Olympic medal. But stay tuned to watch Ramírez in the Mediterranean waters off Marseille battle to best her own 6th place showing and wind up on the podium.

The rest of the sports in which Mexicanas are competing (archery, athletics [running], cycling, diving, … taekwondo) are events in which Mexico has taken home medals in past Olympics, so expectations are high that the Mexicana Olympians will once again be on the podium.

Archers

The Mexico Women’s Archery Team solidified their place at the Paris games by earning the bronze medal in the World Games in Berlin last August. The team of Aída Román, Alejandra Valencia, and Ángela Ruiz also won the gold medal at the Central American and Caribbean Games in San Salvador in 2023. Based on the number of medals won in past Olympics, Mexico ranks 20th in archery. The “three As” team faces heavy competition, but with the formerly unbeatable South Korean team showing recent signs of weakness, a door may be opening to the podium for these Mexicana archers.

They also have a chance of medaling in the individual competitions. Valencia, age 29, who has already won an Olympic bronze, is likely to be on the podium again. Born in Hermosillo, Sonora, Alejandra was an all-around athlete beginning at an early age. She began learning archery at age 9 and has won numerous medals in competitions all over the world, including three golds at the Pan American games and a silver in the 2023 Berlin games (at which her team took the bronze). She also holds a degree in graphic design from the University of Sonora.

Aida and Angela also should not be underestimated. At age 35, this will be Aida’s 5th appearance at the Summer Games, with one silver medal achieved in London in 2012. Born in Mexico City and married with four children, she brings experience and stability to the team and hopefully greater concentration to her game than in some of her past Olympic competitions. At age 17, Angela is just emerging as an archer to be taken seriously. She too started recurve (a form of bow) archery at age 9, in her case in Saltillo. Her first international competitions were not stellar, but she seems to be improving in every match and may reach the top of her game in Paris.

Athletes – Running

The runner Citlali Cristian Moscote was first Mexican athlete to qualify for the 2024 Olympics. Over a year ago, in February 2023, Moscote completed her qualifying run in the Seville (Spain) Marathon, placing fourth in a time only two previous Mexicanas have bested. At age 28, Moscote has been on track to run in the 2024 Olympics for years, placing 6th in the 2019 Summer FISU (International University
Sports Federation) World University Games half-marathon in Naples, Italy; winning the Mexico City half-marathon in 2021; and placing in the top ten in 2022 in the marathon in Eugene, Oregon, in competition with some of the best runners in the world. In the 2023 Pan American Games, Moscote’s marathon pace took home the gold. Moscote was born in San Juan de Lagos, Jalisco, but was primarily educated in Guadalajara. She matriculated at the University of Guadalajara, where she studied marketing and was recognized as a leading runner in competitions for the University.

Divers

We first introduced readers of The Eye to Mexicana divers in an article in the June 2018 issue. We described Paola Espinosa Sánchez from La Paz, South Baja California, and her bronze-medal-winning performance in 2008 in Beijing for the synchronized platform event. This was the first-ever medal for Mexico’s women’s diving team. We also introduced Alejandra Orozco Lorza, now 26 years old, from Guadalajara, Paola’s partner in London in 2012 and their silver-winning duo in the same event. Alejandra will be in Paris after placing 6th in the 2023 World Championships in the individual 10-meter platform event. Her partner, 23-year-old Gabriela Agundez from La Paz, won an individual silver medal in the Tokyo Games and, with Orozco, a bronze in Tokyo for synchronized diving, so it would not be surprising to see both women on the podium in Paris.

We would be remiss to remind our readers that there are women at the top of their games who were not selected to compete in the Olympics due more to the complicated qualification procedures than their lack of expertise. Another award-winning Mexicana diving duo is Paola Pineda, 23, a student at the University of Texas from Guanajuato, and Arantxa Chávez, 32, also from Guanajuato and a Mexican Army athlete. They proudly received the gold medal for their 3-meter springboard synchronized performance at the 2023 Pan American Games as well as individual medals. At the very top of their game, they are sheer perfection to watch – so they will be missed in Paris. And the Mexicana soccer team also won the gold in the 2023 Games in Chile but, given the Eurocentric rules, did not qualify for Paris in 2023. But stand proud for those wonderful women who did make it through the selection process for Paris. Enjoy the Olympic Games and cheer loud enough to be heard anywhere in Mexico.

Pickleball – Silly Name, Awesome Game!

By Leslie Trotter

What do you get when you combine ping-pong with tennis and throw in a wiffle ball? Pickleball, of course – the fastest growing sport in the United States and Canada, and soon to be in Huatulco as well!

While usually perceived as a “game for older people,” it really lends itself perfectly for all ages, genders and athletic abilities.

Pickleball is easy to learn. Becoming really competent is another story but almost anyone can successfully hit the ball back and forth over the net their first day. Because the court is less than half the size of a tennis court and the paddle is short and light, it doesn’t require a high level of fitness. Pickleball does, however, work hand-eye coordination, balance, agility, reflexes and at higher levels, mental preparedness. There is definitely a strategy to pickleball once one reaches the intermediate+ level.

Another great thing about pickleball is that it’s inexpensive. A starter paddle is about $40 and from a Parks and Recreation perspective, pre-existing tennis courts work well for pickleball. Many a neglected tennis court has been revived for pickleball purposes!

The one thing that continues to astound me about playing pickleball is how often you hear peals of laughter coming from the courts. While competitive players take the game very seriously, the vast majority of people simply appreciate the exercise amongst friends, where inevitably crazy shots are a thing to cheer about. Pickleball is a very social game!

So now that I’ve got you intrigued to the point of wanting to experience this for yourself, what is a Huatulqueño to do about playing pickleball? Here are the current Huatulco options:

Snowbird Pickleball
This is a well-organized group that had a humble beginning with a net and 2 sticks as posts in 2018! Fortunately, they’ve advanced since then and have introductory classes for those who want to try pickleball.
Levels: beginners to intermediate
Location: Escuela Secundaria Técnica 144, 3 covered courts; Unidad Deportiva, 4 covered courts
Season: November to March
Membership: 90
Protocol: online booking
Fee: 50 pesos per day
Contact: Colleen Gagnon – cgbike33@gmail.com

Bahias De Huatulco Pickleball
This is a drop-in group without a lot of rules other than come and play.
Levels: beginner to intermediate
Location: Unidad Deportiva, 4-6 courts
Season: year-round, typically Mon, Wed, Fri: 8-11 am
Membership: varies, ±24 in high season
Fee: 50 pesos per day
Contact: Norm Ferguson – normferg1955@icloud.com; also on FaceBook

Marina Park Pickleball
This group formed as a way for more seasoned players to hone their game. These are uncovered courts and the play can be intense but in the end, everyone clicks paddles to acknowledge the sportsmanship of pickleball.
Level: intermediate to advanced
Location: Guelaguetza Park, next to Marina Park Plaza, 2 courts
Season: year-round, typically 7-9 am daily in high season
Membership: 15 main founding members with play-priority in high season
Protocol: drop-in when numbers allow
Fee: 50 pesos per day for drop-ins
Contact: Group is basically full – you’ll probably run across “someone who knows” if you play in the places listed above.

There are other places to play pickleball, such as Las Brisas Resort and some of the newer condominium developments. These aren’t listed since they are private clubs with membership fees, although I understand that during the high season, there is a very active group at Las Brisas. Omar is the contact to find out about monthly fees and the pickleball schedule – concierge.hux@brisas.com.mx.

So take heart, pickleball fanatics and interested others! There are great options from beginner to intermediate to make your time in Huatulco full of healthy, fun pickleball games.

Swimming The Bays Of Huatulco

By Randy Jackson

Here’s a question for people familiar with Huatulco: How many of the nine bays of Huatulco can you name (without googleandolo)? I conducted a non-random, non-representative survey amongst friends and acquaintances, and came up with a range of between 2 and 7. That’s OK. I wasn’t any better at it until undertaking a fun project with my friend John this season, to swim across each of the nine bays of Huatulco. There is nothing like direct experience as a teacher, as I can now name all nine bays.

But far more important than mastering a list of names, swimming each of the bays means having an experience with the bays in a personal way. It’s like the difference between knowing the name of a particular mountain, and having climbed it. What follows is some information about each of the “official” nine Bahías de Huatulco, and a little about our experience of swimming each of them in the winter of 2022. (NB: The order of the bays is by the dates we swam them, not the geographical order).

Órgano (January 14):

For me the memory of our swim at El Órgano is the “ghost body.” I saw something in the water, floating about 5 feet below the surface. Its shape and colour, obscured by my swim goggles and the water, caused my brain to fire-up an image of a body seemingly suspended in the water. Our brains do that. They instantly form a reality influenced by subconscious expectations. On a deserted bay on the coast of Mexico there is always some unconscious trepidation about swimming out into the Pacific. And when you see something brown in the shape of a leg, calf and foot – well, it stops a fellah cold. Freud and Jung both believed that dreams had equal impact to waking experiences. I wonder if at some advanced age, years from now in a nursing home, whether my remembered reality of the swim at Órgano will come back: The image of a ghost body, or the realisation after investigating, that it was a cloud of brownish algae-like substance, surprisingly clustered in the shape of a human leg.

The walk to the trailhead for Bahía del Órgano from the Hotel Binniguenda in Santa Cruz takes about 25 minutes. Once on the forested trail, it takes an additional 10 minutes to walk to the beach. Our swim at Órgano was out to a point of rock on the right side facing the bay, then across the bay to the roped off swim/snorkel area, then back to the beach. Swim distance, approximately 500 metres (half a kilometer).

Maguey (January 21):

Back in the day before Huatulco tourism development, Bahía Maguey was enclosed by lush vegetation stretching across its mouth. People could only access the bay with a smaller boat. There is also reported to be a “secret” cave, only accessible underwater. The cave was at one time rumoured to be a hiding place for pirates. I wonder though, how did the pirates know about the cave if it was behind the reeds and under water? However, neither reeds nor diving pirates impeded our progress as we swam across the bay and back again, a swim of about 600 metres.

Also relevant to both Órgano and Maguey is a news story (March 2021) that FONATUR had purchased back these two bays from Fernando Chico Pardo (Chairman of the ASUR group). Pardo had purchased this land for development in 2011. The land is zoned for hotel and mixed commercial use, but no development had begun (and presumably no development had even been proposed). I guess the “For Sale” sign is back up on the beaches.

Chahué (January 28):

In The Edge of Enchantment: Sovereignty and Ceremony in Huatulco, Mexico, author Alicia Maria Gonzalez notes that Bahía Chahué was an alligator-infested marshland up until the FONATUR development. The sand, gravel and rock from nearby construction was used to fill the marsh and create a lovely beach with a lifeguard, public washrooms (5 pesos), and showers (10 pesos). Caution is advised at Chahué for anyone not comfortable in the water. The beach descends quickly below the water and waves crash near to shore. There are occasional rip tides. Chahué is less sheltered than other Huatulco bays so there are often modest waves. These sea swells were moderate, in fact fun, as we swam across the bay and back. The bay is about 400 metres across at the breakwater, so about an 800-metre) swim.

Cacaluta (February 4):

The original name of this bay was Cacalotepec, translated as “the hill of crows.” To get to Bahía de Cacaluta, one drives or walks 5 kilometres from the Binniguenda hotel, passing beyond Maguey, to get to the trailhead. It is then a 20-minute walk along a maintained trail. Part of the trail is along a boardwalk with two viewpoints overlooking what in February was a dried-up wetland – so dry in fact that even the grass growing where the marsh used to be has turned brown. We may need the help of Tlaloc, the Aztec god of rain, and the rainy season to replenish this (and other) marshlands.

Cacaluta Bay has two beaches shaped like side-by-side smiles. There is a small spit of land separating the smiles, and this point is closest to the rock island dominating the mouth of the bay. From that point, we swam across to the island, then across its rocky frontage (no beach), inside the roped-off snorkel/scuba diving area. We then closed the triangle by swimming back to our starting point, about 700 metres.

San Agustín (February 11):

It was about 10:30 in the morning as we wound our way along the gravel road (half hour drive), to access Bahía San Agustín from Highway 200. We followed a convoy of five large tourists buses on the way in. Our beach restaurant waiter at San Agustín, Cristian, thought there were about forty restaurants lining this bay. I didn’t count, but there certainly are a whole lot of them.

A central attraction at San Agustín is the coral reef located close to shore, in shallow water, and is more or less at the centre of the bay. The roped-off swimming and snorkelling area includes the coral reef and a rocky outcrop which is to the right while facing the sea. The boat access to the shore is on either side of this snorkel area.

My favourite part of Huatulco bay swimming is crossing over a coral reef. Not only for the underwater eye-candy this provides, but it also allows for a sense of movement not normally experienced in open water swimming. So even we slow swimmers feel as if we’re “ripping” when crossing over a reef. We did just that at San Agustín, but mostly we swam around the reef following the buoys along the outer edge of it, and then back, an estimated swim distance of 900 metres.

Conejos (February 18):

Some long-time visitors and residents might remember Bahía Conejos before the all-inclusive resort hotel Secrets opened in 2010. There used to be a walking trail, now fenced off, that led down to the beach and a restaurant run by local fishermen. Neither the trail nor the restaurant survived the arrival of Secrets and the subsequent fencing off of the adjacent property by the Melia Hotel chain.

Melia had announced in 2014 it would build a 500-room resort hotel on Conejos – it would have been located just east of Secrets, but as of yet, nothing but the fence and a security guard occupy the site. However, there is another trail down to Conejos west of Secrets, and two local restaurants on the beach.

Thanks to our swim quest, we rediscovered Conejos, and enjoyed the bay and beach from one of the restaurants. The trail access has a handmade sign for Conejos Bay just before arriving at the Secrets resort, about a 7 kilometre drive from Tangolunda. Conejos has the unique feature of a rock outcropping that partitions off a part of the bay. This spot is where the trail leads, and where the two restaurants are located. There is a slightly elevated, full view of the entire bay and beach access from this spot. The rock outcrop serves to screen the view of the resort leaving anyone at the restaurants with the illusion of a lovely undeveloped bay on the Oaxacan coast. In addition, while we were there for several hours, very few people from the resort ventured out onto the beach, solidifying this perspective.

Our swim was straight across from the two ends of the curved bay and back, about 650 metres in all.

Tangolunda (February 25):

Being a foreigner of the snowbird variety, with ten or more winters in Huatulco, it’s funny how much of an outsider I still felt at the resort-lined Bahía Tangolunda (“pretty woman”) bay. Yet for thousands of tourists each year, the view of this bay is likely what they take home as a memory of Huatulco. It’s a beautiful bay, in a resort-esque sort of way. The sandy curve of the bay is framed on one side by the impressive and ordered look of the reddish-orange Las Brisas hotel complex, and on the other side by mansions of Balcones de Tangolunda peeking out on the rocky cliffs.

Getting to the beach I couldn’t help feeling as if we were sneaking onto the king’s estate to poach deer. The public access is from the campground (parking 10 pesos). From here you walk along the chain-link fence of the golf course. The trail is strewn with tires and broken sand bags, placed there when the area was a bog. In February, of course, it’s bone dry. The walk is 3 or 4 minutes to the beach.

The Chontal name for this bay was tecualo, the place of rocks. We found this to be an apt description. The bay itself boasts prominent rocky islands, but there are also rocky mounds near the surface of the bay, cordoned off inside the swim areas. There are two buoy-lined swim areas, one in front of the Barcelo, the other in front of the Dreams resort. There is boat and jetski access between these two roped off areas.

We swam out and along one side of the Barcelo swim area, then further out to a point on the rocky island closest to the shore. From this rocky point we could see there was a line of rocks behind the island stretching out seaward. There is a break in the rocks about 10 metres wide, and through this break we could see the beach in front of Dreams (Camino Real Zaashila has its own cove separated by a rocky outcrop from the Dreams Resort.) We swam through this break in the rocks and across to the swim area in front of Dreams. Then back across the front of the bay to our starting point. This swim route was our longest swim in our swim-the-bays project – the full loop was about 1 kilometer.

Chachacual Bay (March 4):

Of all the nine bays of Huatulco, Bahía Chachacual takes the most effort to get to. It is accessible only by boat. We rented a lancha at San Agustín for the 20-minute boat ride to Chachacual. As you enter the bay by boat, the long playa Chachacual is on the left, stretching across most of the bay. To the right, is a separate cove known as Playa La India. This beach, often touted as a remote idyllic spot, was partially lined with beach umbrellas and tables. There was a beverage service. A lovely spot with boats anchored in the cove, shallow waters, and a nice beach, Playa La India was the end point of our cross-bay swim.

We jumped off the boat at the entrance to Chachacual bay, opposite Playa La India, where there was a small roped off snorkel or dive area along the rocks. From there we picked a large boat anchored at La India as our line of sight and began our swim. For this swim, John and I had company. John’s niece, Schuyler, an experienced open-water swimmer, joined us for the swim; John’s wife Deborah and her sister Priscilla were the boat spotter crew as we swam across the deep waters of the bay. Our swim distance at this, our final bay, was about 900 metres.

Santa Cruz:

Bahía de Santa Cruz sees the most open-water swimmers. Each morning between about 6:30 and 8:30, there are a fair number of regular swimmers. Besides the ease of access for most Huatulqueños, there are markers for the different swimming abilities. From the beach looking seaward, there are some green buoys that can be used as swim objectives. The first green buoy, referred to by the regular morning swimmers as “El Primero,” is at the end of the cruise ship pier. The distance out and back is about 700 metres. The next buoy further out is at the entrance to La Entrega (round-trip, about 1,500 metres). Most of the longer distance swimmers, if going this far, swim to the beach at Entrega. The Entrega beach is approximately 1 kilometre in each direction from the Santa Cruz beach.

John and I separately do a fitness swim at Santa Cruz each week, so we didn’t include it in “Swimming The Bays Of Huatulco” project.

In all, a fun and interesting project for John and me this season. The swim across each of the nine bays of Huatulco has enhanced our experience of Huatulco overall, and provided us with unique experiences of each of these lovely bays. There will be another swim project for us next season in Huatulco. I hope the above descriptions and swim information are useful and encourage other open-water swimmers to explore Las Bahías de Huatulco.

Randy Jackson: box95jackson@gmail.com

Learning to Surf

By Randy Redmond

The first thing I will tell you is this: you are going to hate it before you love it! (Remember these words …)

Here are the five things you need to do that help you succeed in starting your new life of surfing.

  1. Hire a surf instructor! Too many people feel that they can learn on their own, which only leads to learning bad habits and it’ll take you twice as long to get to the point of loving the sport.
  2. Start yourself on a soft top surfboard no shorter than 2 meters (7 feet).
  3. Do some beach training with your board. Using your board on the sand, learn how to pop up and stand up out of the water.
  4. Before entering the water, if your instructor has not already done so, please ask them to explain surf etiquette to you. There are rules of the road out there in the water – once you learn them you’ll avoid a lot of drama and possible injury to yourself and others.
  5. Have patience! It’s not gonna happen in one day. Let your surf instructor push you into waves – this is not humiliating- this is how you learn. You will eventually learn how to paddle into the waves yourself.

Surfing is not only one of the healthiest sports, it’s low cost and you get to enjoy nature! Every surfer I know remembers vividly the feeling of their first blue-water wave, in other words not riding the white wash anymore. Every surfer can tell you what board they were riding, where they were surfing, how they got there and who was on the beach. Your first blue-water wave is probably the most important step to your newfound addiction. This is the feeling that you’ll be chasing and cheering for the rest of the time that you enjoy this incredible activity!

I highly recommend that you watch the many YouTube channels that will further instruct you on technique, style, and basic logic of surfing. Once you have mastered the pop-up and stand up on your board and actually catch some blue-water waves, you can graduate to a harder board. I suggest a “fun board,” yes, that’s what the board is called. A fun board will allow you to take your surfing to the next level, staying on a soft top will only keep you from excelling. From there you can gradually work your way down sizes or upsize it depending if you would like ride a short board or a classic longboard.

Huatulco Surf Company is located in the shops at Tangolunda; you can visit them to obtain a list of professional surf instructors.

Editor’s Letter

By Jane Bauer

When I was growing up, gym class was treated as a less important subject than math or English. It was grouped in with art and woodworking (which I wish I had taken). It was a class you would skip without being worried about falling behind and many girls I know routinely came up with reasons for being excused from it. However, in the real world, skills learned in gym class are incredibly useful: it forces people to get out of their physical comfort zones, and it teaches teamwork, discipline, and communication.

On a larger scale, sports unites or separates groups, depending on whether you are a glass half-full or half-empty kind of person. The swell of stadium calls and passionate allegiances to teams have led to violent riots but also to emotional triumphs that have lifted people up and improved their lives.

One such moment is happening as I write this. With the Taliban in Afghanistan returning to power, the world watches helplessly to see how this will play out. Women will most likely be prevented from working (except as teachers and nurses), they will be restricted to women-only spaces at university and I assume limited in the subjects they are allowed to learn. You can bet they won’t be allowed to play sports where any aggressiveness might be displayed, a challenge to the meek silent demeanor the Taliban wants to force upon women. In the face of this, members of the Afghanistan women’s junior football (soccer) team and their families have fled to neighbouring Pakistan.

The international organization Football for Peace worked out the arrangements; Fawad Chaudry, Pakistan’s information minister, tweeted that the team had entered Pakistan at the Torkham border crossing and were met by a representative of the Pakistan Football Federation. The news service Reuters later published a photo taken at the PFF headquarters in Lahore of the 81 people involved – the team, their families, and their coaches; another 34 people are expected shortly.

When it comes to communities where girls and women are restricted in public life, sports can have an effective social impact. Girls who play sports tend to have higher self-esteem, continue further in education, and I would also posit that they learn to value their bodies as action-based, rather than through the sexualized lens of the media and social media.

My philosophy has always been “If you want to help a community support the education of its women.” I think I can take that one step further and include supporting its sports teams.

See you next month,

Jane