Category Archives: San Miguel de Allende

Huatulco, San Miguel de Allende

Books to Watch For

Leave a comment

By Carole Reedy—

Partita by Barbara Kingsolver
(publication date October 6, 2026)

The most anticipated fall read, without a doubt, is Barbara Kingsolver’s Partita.

Kingsolver’s previous novel, Demon Copperhead, entertained and educated readers with its smooth narrative of a remote and forgotten part of the US where the pharmaceutical industry introduced addictive drugs. (To understand the facts of this tragedy, read Patrick Radden Keefe’s The Empire Of Pain.) Kingsolver received accolades around the world for her depiction of a modern-day David Copperfield.

This new novel is the story of a farm girl and her unfulfilled musical talent, class barriers, and love. At the heart of the story, however, is the importance of art and beauty.

Kingsolver herself had the talent to pursue the piano as a career, but when faced with the practicality of a life in music changed her college major to biology. She also had aspirations as a writer and studied journalism. As a child she read Tolstoy and played Bach on the piano.

Noted author Ann Patchett, whose new novel Whistler has just arrived, accompanied by rave reviews, on bookshelves, says of Kingsolver’s latest “She means to save us by telling us stories…She comes closer than anyone else I know.”

Country People by Daniel Mason
(publication date July 7, 2026)

Mason’s North Woods, published in 2024, was, for me, a mesmerizing read covering centuries of the inhabitants of a yellow house in a remote part of Massachusetts.

His latest story takes us on a family voyage to Vermont from California.

It’s described by the publisher as a “joyous, absurd, gorgeously-drawn exploration of marriage, family, friendship, storytelling and how people find connection in an increasingly fragmented world.”

We know Mason as a consummate storyteller that can deliver a story in a masterfully fluent manner.

Cover of The Eye's Passport to Mexico, a free guide featuring 100 unforgettable travel experiences across Mexico, including food, culture, nature, beaches, and adventure.
Download your free Passport to Mexico and start checking off 100 unforgettable experiences across Mexico. Click the cover to get your copy.

Ply by Hernan Diaz
(publication date September 29, 2026)

How we loved Diaz’s Pulitzer Prize-winning novel Trust, the story of a “successful” man and his wife told in three parts, the last part putting in perspective the first two in a most shocking way.

Though his previous novels dealt with the past, this one takes us to the distant future and questions the role of technology in our lives. It is a Dickensian-style family drama in addition to being a scientific thriller.

The novel takes place in a US city where the protagonist, an orphan, steals energy to feed the city’s vibrant music scene. This high-risk life shifts when he becomes involved in a scientific project that could change reality itself.

The Dying Light by Anne Cleeves
(publication date October 8)

Few of us will forget the isolation of the pandemic of 2020 for the gift of time that allowed us hours more to read. During the following three years many of us discovered various book series and authors that entertained and allowed us to get through those difficult days.

One such author was Anne Cleeves. Cleeves is a prolific writer, but the most striking aspect of her writing is the characterizations she creates. These people become part of the reader’s life. It may sound corny, but during the pandemic I talked by phone to friends in the US about characters in the novels as though we were discussing our own friends.

Cleeves’ Shetland series became so popular that it was made into a television series. The lure of an unknown part of the world added mystery to the mysteries! Tourists started putting the Shetland Islands on their travel bucket lists.

Cleeves recently introduced the Matthew Venn series (also called the Two Rivers series), which takes place in Devon England, where detective Venn lives with his husband. Again, the magic of these books lies in their characters rather than the plots.

Cleeves knows and understands her characters so well that she seems to describe them from memory rather than imagination.

Agrippa by Robert Harris
(publication date August 27, 2026)

Harris has always been recognized for his ability to combine personal drama and political machinations. His Conclave gripped book lovers as well as movie fans.

In Agrippa we return to the Roman Empire, where there is plenty of drama for writers. After the death of Julius Caesar, the 17-year-old Octavius becomes heir to the throne. His closest friend is Agrippa. For 20 years they rule the empire together.

Agrippa stirs up the past in his memoirs, which he is writing at age 50. Power and friendship: can they coexist? That is the question and theme.

Robert Harris’ books are very readable and offer glimpses into the political yet personal aspects of the histories he writes. I have become a recent fan of this prestigious writer of histories. His Pompeii hooked me as a new fan and follower.

The French Illusion by John Grisham
(publication date September 29, 2026)

Faithful readers to the genre have been reading John Grisham’s legal thrillers since 1991 when The Firm became an overnight sensation, spending 47 weeks on The New York Times best-seller list. I remember vividly when it hit the shelves, touted as different and sketching new material and characters for a novel. Law school admissions may have risen at this time.

Grisham’s latest veers a little off the legal thriller genre, being more an international suspense novel. It’s clear Grisham enjoys reading the spy stories of John Le Carre, Ken Follett, and Robert Ludlum. This is his first attempt in following the “craftsmanship of some of these international suspense novelists.”

This new plot starts with the kidnapping of a newlywed couple in the French countryside, which rapidly turns into an international espionage plot.

The Disappearers by Marlon James
(publication date September 1, 2026)

It would be difficult to forget James’ A Brief History of Seven Killings, which brought James the recognition he deserved when his novel won the Man Booker Prize in 2015. This new story continues in the genre. Again taking place in Jamaica, it begins with eight gay men in Jamaica during the 1980s.

These eight men, actors, are unfamiliar to each other but share the experience of being gay, including the hatred and bigotry they endure. How they handle it varies among them: some try to forget, others embrace their rage, and still others simply vanish.

James’ novels are enormous in every aspect.

Switzy by Emma Cline
(publication date October 9, 2026)

What is a life? What remains when your goals and accomplishments have been realized? These appear to be the unanswerable questions Cline explores in this story of an aging man.

It is quite an original story, probing the depths of human consciousness, “revealing what a man is left with when the accomplishments and compromises that have defined him, and the illusions he’s relied on, vanish.”

The book follows its main character, David, with his thoughts and memories, as he flies to Zurich with stops in Paris, England, etc. The unusualness of the premise is alluring, especially when tackled by a writer as deft as Cline, who we remember for her novel The Girls, which was based on the Charles Manson entourage of the 70s.

The Newer World by Sebastian Barry
(publication date September 8, 2026)

My book club in Mexico City, whose members represent a number of nationalities, enthusiastically embraces any book written by the Irish writer Sebastian Barry. His novels appeal to not only the Irish and Brits, but also to Americans and Mexicans.

Barry is a consummate storyteller. His newest takes place in the 19th century, starting in rural Tennessee where the main character, a Confederate soldier and wanted man, heads for Nashville but finds himself on a detour to Victorian England. It’s a story of how we survive and at what cost along the way.

Exit Party by Emily St. John Mandel
(publication date September 15, 2026)

This timely novel by the noteworthy author of Station Eleven and Sea of Tranquility should gain widespread attention in the literary world this fall.

Starting out in Los Angeles 2031 with the collapse of the US, the story continues not only from a splintered America but also expanding to include Paris and Greece and a colony on the moon.

Story is the lifeblood of a novel, and this year appears to be packed with novels that are faithful to this premise.

Keep Exploring Mexico

Get your free Passport to Mexico and start checking off 100 unforgettable experiences.

Download the Passport →  Click Here

Huatulco, San Miguel de Allende

Mexico Water Trivia

Leave a comment

By Marcia Chaiken and Jan Chaiken—

Water, water everywhere and many types to enjoy. Here are some facts and personal hints about bodies of water in Mexico.

Lakes

There are 95 freshwater natural lakes in Mexico recognized by the federal government, compared to about 29,000 in the United States. Canada contains more natural lakes than the rest of the world combined.

Lake Chapala in Jalisco is the largest lake in Mexico, but its size shrinks and expands depending on seasonal rainfall. Noted for its temperate year-round climate, it has become a home for many expats from north of the border.

Lake Avandaro in the Valle de Bravo is the go-to weekend retreat for many Chilangos from Mexico City and other Mexicanos. Ringed by mountains with pine forests, it provides opportunities for water sports and hiking.

Lake Patzcuaro is on the itinerary of many bus tours of Mexico. It is surrounded by colonial villages producing beautiful crafts and is home to Isla de Janitzio with souvenir shops lining the path to the top of the island. Visit early in the morning before hordes of tourists hit.

Gulfs

Gulf of Mexico: The name first appeared on a map drawn by a Spanish cartographer in 1544. The body of water was referred to by that name in the writings of explorers earlier than that and was based on the name of the indigenous Mexica (aka Aztecs). Although the shoreline is in both Mexico and the US, Mexico has the longest portion.

Gulf of California: This gulf separates the Baja Peninsula from mainland Mexico. The name California was given in the 16th century and reportedly came from a popular novel published in 1510. It is also known as the Sea of Cortez. A ferry from La Paz in Baja California to Mazatlán across the Gulf started running in 1970. The ferry is not recommended for those subject to seasickness.

Gulf of Tehuantepec: Meaning jaguar hill, this gulf is separated from the Gulf of Mexico by the Tehuantepec isthmus (just called “The Isthmus” in Huatulco). The gulf is infamous among sailors because of its perpetual fierce difficult-to-navigate winds – also called Tehuantepecs. Even driving across the Isthmus in these winds can be a challenge.

The Mexico coastline and lagoons

The coastline is more or less 5,800 miles (9,330 kilometers) long. Most of the west and south coast borders the Pacific Ocean and the Gulf of California. The rest borders the Gulf of Mexico and the Caribbean Sea.

Over 100 coastal lagoons, separated from the open ocean or sea by reefs, islets or sandbars, can be found in states all along the coast. Among the most famous are the brightly colored Laguna de Bacalar in Quintana Roo, the huge refuge for migratory birds Laguna Madre in Tamaulipas, and Las Coloradas – interconnected pink lagoons in the Yucatan. Our personal favorites are the lagoons and Mayan canals that make up the Sian Kaan Biosphere Reserve in the Yucatan. Floating supine down one of the largest canals while staring up at brightly colored birds and remains of Mayan villages is an unforgettable experience.

Rivers

Mexico has about 250 named rivers, compared to about 8,500 in Canada and 250,000 in the United States.

The longest river at about 1,900 miles is the Rio Bravo del Norte (aka the Rio Grande) that forms much of the northern border with the U.S.

The Usumacinta River, named after the howler monkey, is slightly less than 700 miles long and forms part of the border between Mexico and Guatemala. A noisy night spent on the river bank makes clear how it got its name. A mysterious trip down the river in the dawn fog is highly recommended.

You may have your own favorite lake, lagoon, or river – there are so many in Mexico to explore.

Drs. Marcia and Jan Chaiken have been married for 62 years and have published many justice system research reports together.

Huatulco, San Miguel de Allende

Mexico’s ‘Little Cornwall’: Cradle of Mexican Football

Leave a comment

By Sharron Schwartz—

Nine minutes into the opening game of the World Cup 2026, Julián Quiñones scores the first goal of the tournament to give Mexico, one of the three host nations, the lead against South Africa.

The iconic Azteca Stadium in Mexico City erupts in joy, and I shoot from my seat in a bar at Gatwick Airport, arms aloft, punching the air with a loud cheer. I am undaunted by the bemused looks of onlookers, for I have skin in this game.

I am Cornish and for over two centuries, my people have played a significant role in Mexico’s silver mining industry. In 1824, the first Cornish mineworkers arrived at Real del Monte, a small town in the picturesque Sierra Madre Oriental in the State of Hidalgo. They were employees of the British-capitalised Real del Monte Mining Company and one of those men was a distant cousin to me.

The Cornish did not just bring their innovative high-pressure steam engine technology and mining know-how, which helped to revive the flooded mines of Real del Monte, but also their culture.

This included their Methodist faith, Cornwall’s signature dish – the pasty – and sports, including cricket and football.

All of these left an indelible imprint on the mining settlements of the Comarca Minera de Hidalgo, also known as Mexico’s ‘Little Cornwall’.

Along with the humble pasty, adapted to suit the Mexican palate and now a dish as famous throughout Hidalgo as barbacoa, the Mexican people embraced football. Mexico is the first nation to host the World Cup three times.

With the spotlight firmly on Mexico’s footballing pedigree, attention has turned to the history of the sport in the country, with several places claiming to be the cradle of Mexican football.

Cover of The Eye's Passport to Mexico, a free guide featuring 100 unforgettable travel experiences across Mexico, including food, culture, nature, beaches, and adventure.
Download your free Passport to Mexico and start checking off 100 unforgettable experiences across Mexico. Click the cover to get your copy.

Prior to the late 1880s, the game was not mentioned in the Mexican press. In 1887, the employees of the General Offices of the Central (a railway) in Mexico City, were reportedly trying to set up a football club.

In November 1891, a match was played at San Cristóbal between ‘Pearson’s Wanderers’ (of the British construction firm S. Pearson & Sons) and the ‘San Cristobal Swifts’. The Swifts were defeated 1-0. The game was still relatively unknown in Mexico at this point:

“Many of the Swifts had never played at football before, and consequently were at a disadvantage, but they played remarkably well considering that the Wanderers had just returned from a trip to Europe where they had practiced for some months.” Daily Anglo American, 3 November 1891.

In September 1892, The Two Republics newspaper reported that a football match was being arranged in Mexico City for the inauguration of the Mexican Athletic Club’s ground on the Paseo, “the first game between two organised clubs ever played in the vicinity”.

British schools in Mexico City undoubtedly played the game at this period, but it did not take off due to lack of competition.
However, competitive football was being played in Mexico’s Little Cornwall several years before the abovementioned games.

It is only by chance that a report of one of those matches, the earliest documented in Mexico, found its way into El Minero de Pachuca in May 1889.

A football match between men from El Rosario Mine in Pachuca (managed by Cornishman, Richard Rule) and those from La Joya Mine in neighbouring Real del Monte, was abandoned.

The game, played on the sport’s field of the Railway Racetrack in Pachuca, descended into a free fight when the referee awarded a penalty to El Rosario, which was winning 7-4.

The players from La Joya disagreed with his decision and attacked their opponents, causing serious injuries to two players. Fourteen people appeared in court for involvement in the brawl.

In the mid-1860s, one quarter of all British subjects in Mexico were resident in Hidalgo’s mining settlements. This critical mass of people and the ‘friendly rivalry’ between Cornishmen in Real del Monte and Pachuca, echoing the fierce sporting rivalries in Cornish towns such as Camborne and Redruth, undoubtedly led to the success of football in Hidalgo.

Pachuca had established a football club by late 1892, as an anonymous letter in Mexican newspaper, The Two Republics, revealed. The Pachuca Football Club had lately degenerated to a great extent and was being reorganised. This was due to a schism between the players at Pachuca and the “mountain men” (the Realmontese):

“This must be attributed to the lack of energy of certain members of the above-named body. We may in particular refer to certain so-called football players who live in the mountains and who are so egotistical as to imagine that without their mighty efforts the club would not but expire.”

Besides the deep rivalry between the two mining settlements which made competitive football attractive, was the fact that organised sport already existed in the form of cricket.

In August 1888, Cornish newspaper, the Cornishman, reported that the Pachuca Cricket Club was over 20 years old. Mining entrepreneur, Frank Rule, Pachuca’s most famous Cornish resident, had served with the club for 21 years. Crucially, the Pachuca cricket team played against established teams in Real del Monte and Velasco.

Pachuca’s first football squad was built from its cricket team and included William Retallack, Sydney Ludlow, Charles Grenfell, John Mayne Rule, W.C. Rule, and some enthusiastic recent arrivals from Cornwall.

By the early 1890s, football was growing in popularity throughout Mexico’s British enclaves. Clubs had been formed in Mexico City, Orizaba (State of Veracruz) and Puebla. In 1894, Mexican newspaper El Nacional explained that football was a team game played with a rubber bladder covered in leather.

In 1895, a meeting was held at Hacienda La Luz in Pachuca to agree on the amalgamation of the Pachuca Cricket Club, the Velasco Cricket Club and the Pachuca Football Club, to create a stronger competitive entity: the Pachuca Athletic Club.

A large field belonging to Hacienda La Luz was given over for a sports field. The officers and committee were all Methodist Cornishmen, so no games were to be played on Sundays. The team chose as its strip, the historic dark and light blues of Oxford and Cambridge, with blue shorts.

In February 1902, a hotly contested international between Scotland and England was played on the Reforma Club’s grounds in Mexico City, watched over by the British Consul, which England won 3-2. The game between the two ‘auld foes’ was not without controversy, with Scotland claiming the referee had made an error that awarded the game to England!

This galvanised interest throughout the expat communities and later that year, several Scottish footballers involved in establishing the Orizaba Club, suggested setting up an Association League. In 1902 the Liga Mexicana de Football Amateur Association was formed among the English-speaking community.

The teams of the new league were the Reforma Athletic Club, the Mexico Cricket Club, The British Social Club (all three based in Mexico City), the Pachuca Athletic Club and the Orizaba Athletic Club.

League football benefitted from the Porfiriato’s improved communication and transport links, particularly the railways, which made it easier to travel to opponents’ grounds for matches. English language newspaper, The Mexican Herald, published upcoming fixtures and devoted column inches to detailed reports of the various matches.

Pachuca’s first league game was played at the Velódromo Pachuca against the Reforma Athletic Club. The game began at 4.00pm and was well supported and hotly contested, watched by the Hidalgo state governor, Pedro L. Rodriguez, and all the principal families of the area.

The only drawback was the strong wind that interfered with kicking, which occurs each afternoon in Pachuca, La Bella Airosa!

“The scene on the ground was made picturesque by the presence of a large number of ladies in most beautiful costumes, many of them wearing the colours of the Pachuca club, dark and light blue.” Mexican Herald, 2 November 1902.
Both teams played “with dash”. The game ended in a tie: three goals apiece. Orizaba won the first league of 1902.

Pachuca AC won its first amateur title in the 1904–05 season and also won the Copa Tower twice (1907–08 and 1911–12).

Football was deemed modern, encompassed British cultural imperialism, and became fashionable in societies wishing to emulate the British sense of fair play. In 1908 the first Mexican, David Islas, became a Pachuca club member.

Alfred ‘Fred’ C. Crowle (1889-1979), the Pachuca-born son of Alf Crowle, a Cornish miner from St Blazey, was a key player during this era. He was eventually promoted to team coach and freely admitted Mexicans from all backgrounds to the team, blurring class and ethnic boundaries.

Under Crowle, Pachuca won two more amateur league titles (1917–18 and 1919–20). He later went on to found Club Necaxa before becoming the national coach in 1935, enjoying a 100 per-cent record during the year he was in charge.

The Mexican Revolution (1910-20) and WW1 affected the team, as players moved away. Pachuca-born Johnnie Vial, a cousin of mine, signed on as a gunner with the Royal Field Artillery. He died at the Somme. In the 1920s, the club folded.

The Pachuca club, ‘Los Tuzos’ (The Gophers, honouring the city’s mining legacy), was successfully revived in the 1960s and currently plays in Liga MX. Pachuca prides itself on being the spiritual home of Mexican football and boasts the interactive museum, Mundo Fútbol.

I will continue to follow ‘El Tri’ with gusto during this year’s World Cup. Next time you see La Ola (the Mexican Wave) ripple through a stadium, remember the role that Mexico’s ‘Little Cornwall’ played in popularising the beautiful game in this football-mad nation.

Born and bred in Redruth, Cornwall, Sharron Schwartz completed her PhD at the Institute of Cornish Studies, University of Exeter. She is the pre-eminent authority on Cornish migration to Latin America and is a Bard of Gorsedh Kernow.

You may enjoy these articles:

World Cup Fever!

Keep Exploring Mexico

Get your free Passport to Mexico and start checking off 100 unforgettable experiences.

Download the Passport →  Click Here

Huatulco, San Miguel de Allende

Editor’s Letter

Leave a comment

By Jane Bauer—

“Our true nationality is humankind.”
— H.G. Wells

We are in the midst of World Cup fever. What is more Mexican than El Tri? And yet, when we dig a little deeper, we discover that football itself is an import. The game arrived in Mexico with Cornish miners in the nineteenth century and was gradually adopted, adapted, and embraced until it became something undeniably Mexican.

At what point do the blurry lines of otherness disappear? I find myself thinking about this often. Maybe because I have spent so much of my life living somewhere other than where I was born. Over the years I have been called a tourist, a traveller, an immigrant, and occasionally the word that makes me cringe the most: expat. What is the difference, exactly?

An immigrant moves somewhere permanently. An expat plans to leave? A traveller keeps moving? A displaced person had no choice? The definitions seem straightforward until you start looking closely. Then they begin to fall apart. Is it intention that matters? Money? Privilege? Time? And what about the rest of us?

Aren’t we all being displaced constantly? We move across countries and continents, but also through relationships, careers, beliefs, identities, and stages of life. The person I was at twenty is not the person writing this today. Sometimes the biggest migrations happen without ever crossing a border.

Perhaps movement is not the exception. Perhaps it is the human condition. The World Cup offers a fascinating reminder of this. National teams are presented as symbols of identity and belonging, yet many of their players have roots stretching across multiple countries and continents. Some were born in one place and represent another. Some hold dual citizenship. Some choose to play for the country of their parents or grandparents rather than the one where they were born.

These teams reflect a deeply interconnected world shaped by migration, colonial history, family ties, opportunity, and choice. And yet we remain remarkably attached to the question of origin.

Where are you from? Sometimes even when someone answers, it is not enough. “No, where are you really from?” As if birthplace alone could explain a person.

In this age of rapid technological change, global travel, and lives that increasingly unfold across multiple places, I sometimes wonder why we continue to use the location where someone first slipped into the world as one of our primary measures of identity.

Who are you really? Perhaps that is the more interesting question. The World Cup reminds us that identity is rarely as simple as a flag, a passport, or a place on a map. We are all shaped by where we come from, but also by where we go, who we love, what we learn, and the communities we choose along the way.

The older I get, the less interested I become in where people are from and the more interested I become in who they are.

Have a great July!

San Miguel de Allende

Beyond the Surface

1 Comment

By Darlene Olivia McElroy—

As a working artist, I have always created mixed-media paintings and assemblages. About 10 years ago, I decided to combine the two—and shazam! Dimensional collage became an integral part of my work. Dimensional objects bring that sweet magic of the unexpected to a collage or painting, allowing me to take the narrative further.

At first, I was a hunter-gatherer of found objects—vintage millinery flowers, broken jewelry, and other curiosities. Over time, this process evolved into making my own molds and casting objects. My obsession with materials and dreamlike imagery, and the mindset of a mad artist-scientist have all contributed to capturing what I see as the healing spirit of humanity.

Trained and employed as a painter and illustrator, I have also spent years as a teacher, author, lecturer, and exhibition juror. After living in France, I returned to the United States and moved to Santa Fe, New Mexico. I come from a long line of New Mexico artists and musicians, and both my soul and my work have been deeply shaped by the summers I spent on my family’s ranch there. In Santa Fe, the rich tapestry of Hispanic life filled my days and nights with color, texture, and story. My paternal grandfather, an artist on Santa Catalina Island, also played an important role in shaping my path, introducing me early on to art as both a lifestyle and a narrative language.

During this time, I leaned into my natural curiosity and the pure joy of exploring what paint can do. I have written five art technique books for North Light Books (now Penguin Random House), which have been translated into Spanish, French, Chinese, and other languages. These books explore a range of methods, including image transfers, surface techniques, alternative surfaces, and mixed-media clay. They are designed as resources for both working artists and teachers.

I continue to explore new materials, surfaces, and techniques, sharing what I learn online and through my monthly classes at Galeria San Francisco, located in the Fábrica La Aurora in San Miguel de Allende.

San Miguel first drew me into its creative orbit over 40 years ago. Being invited to show my work at Galeria San Francisco—and finding so many longtime Santa Fe friends living here—made the decision easy. I now live here full-time with my supportive husband, a crazy cat, and two slightly neurotic dogs.

My paintings are represented in galleries in the United States and Mexico and are held in corporate, civic, and educational institutions, as well as private collections around the world.

I invite you to visit Galeria San Francisco to see more of my work, or explore online at DarleneOliviaMcElroy.com

 

San Miguel de Allende

From Bordeaux to the Bajío: The French Roots of Querétaro Wine

Leave a comment

By Jane Bauer—

About an hour from San Miguel de Allende, the vineyards of Querétaro stretch across a high, dry plateau that doesn’t immediately read as wine country. There are no rolling green hills or centuries-old estates. Instead, the landscape is open, sun-exposed, and shaped by a very different set of conditions. And yet, this region has become one of the most important wine-producing areas in Mexico, with a foundation that traces directly back to France.

Much of Mexico’s modern wine industry is built on French grape varieties. In Querétaro, that means Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah, among others. These grapes were introduced as winemakers looked to established European models—particularly French—for structure, consistency, and quality. Over time, they became standard across many regions in Mexico, including this one.

What’s interesting is how those grapes perform here. Querétaro sits at a higher altitude than many people expect, often above 1,800 meters. The days are warm and dry, with strong sun, but the nights cool down significantly. That shift in temperature slows the ripening process and helps preserve acidity in the grapes. It’s one of the key factors that gives wines from this region their balance.

The soils also play a role. In parts of Querétaro, they are mineral-rich and well-draining, which forces the vines to work a little harder. That stress can translate into more concentrated flavors in the fruit. It’s not an easy environment, but it’s one that can produce very precise results when managed well.

One of the defining features of Querétaro’s wine scene is its focus on sparkling wine. The region has become known for wines made using the traditional method—the same process used in Champagne, where a second fermentation takes place in the bottle. This method is labor-intensive and requires careful control, but it produces wines with fine bubbles and a clean, structured profile.

The climate in Querétaro supports this style. The preserved acidity in the grapes makes them particularly well-suited for sparkling production. Over the past couple of decades, several wineries have focused on refining this approach, and the region now has a reputation for it. It’s not an attempt to recreate Champagne, but it clearly draws from the same technical foundation.

That said, the wines here are not French in identity. The influence is there in the grapes and the methods, but the outcome reflects local conditions. The intensity of the sun, the dryness of the air, and the elevation all shape the final product. There’s also a different mindset at play. Many Mexican winemakers are less constrained by tradition, which allows for experimentation alongside more classical styles.
You’ll see that in the range of wines being produced. Alongside structured reds and sparkling wines, there are blends, rosés, and small-batch projects that don’t always follow a strict model. Some producers are working with international consultants; others are entirely self-taught. It’s a mix of approaches, and that variety is part of what defines the region right now.

For visitors, Querétaro is relatively easy to navigate. There are established wine routes with clusters of wineries, tasting rooms, and restaurants open to the public. The infrastructure is there, but it hasn’t tipped into overdevelopment. Many of the wineries are still small to mid-sized operations, and it’s common to find yourself speaking directly with the people involved in the production.

A typical visit might include a tasting, a walk through the vineyard, and a meal on-site. Some places are more polished than others, but the overall experience tends to feel accessible. You can visit multiple wineries in a day without it becoming overly structured or commercial.

For those based in San Miguel de Allende, the region feels close—both geographically and culturally. It fits into the same broader landscape of central Mexico, where outside influences have been absorbed and reinterpreted over time. Just as San Miguel reflects layers of history and migration, the wine in Querétaro reflects a similar process.

French grapes, introduced through a long history of exchange, are now rooted in Mexican soil. The techniques may come from elsewhere, but the results are shaped here. It’s not about replication. It’s about adaptation.

And that’s what makes Querétaro worth paying attention to.

Huatulco, San Miguel de Allende

Imported Empires: Stories of the French Intervention in Mexico

Leave a comment

By Carole Reedy—

Everyone loves a story, and a novel set in a historical period can be a compelling way to learn about an era. While some nonfiction history books can seem dry and tedious, a well-researched and well-written novel can satisfy our desire for historical facts and figures.

This month I’ve chosen both fiction and nonfiction books that tell stories about the time when the European monarchs Maximilian and Carlota ruled Mexico. It is my hope that these books will deepen your understanding of their short reign (1864-1867).

North of the Mexican border, the American Civil War was raging while Mexican conservative exiles and clergy convinced Napoleon III (Louis Napoleon), after considerable political infighting, to place Maximilian of Austria on the throne of Mexico. Along with his wife, Carlota of Belgium, he would become emperor of a politically unstable nation already struggling with internal conflict. It was not the career path either Maximilian or Carlota anticipated.

While much of their story seems improbable, it truly makes for a tantalizing tale.

Looking back, it is easy to think, “How naïve.” Yet history reminds us that political power plays often lead to poor decisions. This is a story of ambition, political intrigue, and, ultimately, tragedy.

How did all this come about? Simply put: “The intervention was triggered by President Benito Juárez’s suspension of foreign debt payments, leading to a tripartite agreement between France, Spain, and Britain in 1861, though France ultimately pursued the deeper, imperialistic intervention.”

The Mexican Empire, as well as the reign of Maximilian and Carlota, came to an end with the execution of Maximilian by firing squad in 1867. He was only 35. Carlota had been suffering from depression to the point of “going mad,” but she lived to the ripe old age of 86, dying of pneumonia caused by a bout of influenza.

Maximilian’s last words are said to be, “I forgive everyone and ask everyone to forgive me. May my blood which is about to be shed, be for the good of the country. Viva Mexico! Viva la Independencia!”

The Last Prince of the Mexican Empire by C.M. Mayo

Author C. M. Mayo is an important voice in contemporary historical fiction. She has translated some of the finest Spanish-speaking writers of our time. In addition to Last Prince, she has written From Mexico to Miramar or Across the Lake of Oblivion: A Nonfiction Novela about a Fairytale: A Visit to the Emperor of Mexico’s Italian Castle. The intriguing title is enough to justify a reading.

Avid readers as well as visitors to this magic land will surely enjoy Mayo’s Mexico: A Traveler’s Literary Companion, which highlights the best of Mexico’s creative contributors who write about various aspects of Mexican life.

In addition to being a novelist, editor, and translator, Mayo is a poet, educated at the University of Chicago. Library Journal named Last Prince of the Mexican Empire one of the best books of 2009, just one of the many accolades the novel received.

The language of The Last Prince of the Mexican Empire is lyrical, highlighted by the shifting points of view of the cast of characters from an overworked kitchen maid to the Austrian archduke.

Blending the cultural and political aspects of the Empire combine here to make a compelling story. The added element of a young boy who childless Maximilian and Carlota want to adopt adds a human element. You’ll be introduced to many historical figures woven into this compelling narrative.

Maximilian in Mexico: A Woman’s Reminiscences of the French Intervention 1862-1867 by Sarah Yorke Stevenson

Sarah Yorke Stevenson (1847-1921) was an archeologist, Egyptologist, and suffragette who helped found the Penn Museum. In this meticulously researched book, she gives us one of the few published first-hand accounts of the time.

In her own words she says of her book, “By offering these pages to the public, my aim is not to write a historical sketch of the reign of Maximilian of Austria, nor is it to give a description of the political crisis that Mexico went through during that period. My only desire is to provide the reader with a point of view whose value lies in the fact that it is that of an eyewitness who was more than an ordinary spectator of a series of events that became one of the most dramatic episodes of modern times.”

What a find! I came across this while researching. Appears to be a gem that may give us a different interpretation of the era, motives, and personalities of the players.

With Maximilian in Mexico. From the Note-book of a Mexican Officer by Maximilian baron von Alvensleben

This reprint of an 1867 account offers a rare perspective from the viewpoint of a Mexican soldier who witnessed the collapse of the empire. Though less known than other works, it provides an intriguing firsthand glimpse into the turbulent final days of Maximilian’s rule.

This is available for just 150 pesos on Kindle, considerably more in hard cover or paperback editions.

The Crown of Mexico: Maximilian and his Empress Carlota by Joan Haslip

This highly acclaimed novel is rich in detail about the politics of both Europe and Mexico in the 1800s. It also takes us back to Maximilian’s upbringing and is sympathetic in tone to Carlota.

Each novel or history we read provides us with new facts and insightful perspectives into the personalities of Maximilian and Carlota. This is what many of us love about novels. They take us closer to the motives of the people involved. There are psychological and sociological factors that straight history often doesn’t—or can’t–reveal.

Maximilian was naïve and easily spurred on by his ambitious wife. He stayed on to the detriment of them both.

Phantom Crown by Bertita Harding

Yet another highly regarded novel that was written in 1934 and subtitled The Story of Maximilian and Carlota of Mexico. It is exactly that, a tragic and pathetic tale of this historic epoch. Carlota and Maximilian are surrounded by a populace that detested them at worst and pitied them at best. The country is torn apart, with liberal leader Benito Juárez in the north. (Benito Juárez was the constitutional president of Mexico. After the suspension of payments on the foreign debt in 1861 and subsequent French invasion, his government became a “roaming republic,” resisting from the north of the country). Napoleon’s ambition is unbridled. There was not much going in their favor.

One reader summed up succinctly all that we look for in a novel. “Wonderful history lesson, very informative, paints a wonderful picture of the times. It is a great read.”

So many issues, so many countries, personalities, conflicts, and ambitions. ‘Tis the way of the world. Next month we will highlight notable novels published this year. You will most likely find your favorite authors among them.

 

 

 

Huatulco, San Miguel de Allende

A Little Bit of France in Mexico

Leave a comment

By Alicia Flores—

Being Mexican is not just one thing. Mexican culture has been shaped by several influences, and one of the most fascinating is France. During the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, especially under Porfirio Díaz, French culture became associated with elegance, progress, and modernity. That influence can still be seen today in architecture, in food, and entire communities.

And if you know where to look, you can experience a little piece of France without ever leaving Mexico.

One of the most refined examples is Quinta Gameros in the northern state of Chuihuahua. This mansion was commissioned in 1907 by Manuel Gameros, a wealthy mining engineer who wanted a residence that reflected status and European sophistication. Designed by Colombian architect Julio Corredor Latorre, the house is one of the best examples of Art Nouveau architecture in Mexico. Its carved wood interiors, stained glass, and ornamental ironwork reflect the influence of French decorative arts that were fashionable at the time.

Construction began during the height of the Porfiriato, but history intervened. The Mexican Revolution forced Gameros to leave the country before he could truly enjoy the home. Over the years, the building has served multiple purposes, including as a federal building and later as part of the University of Chihuahua. Today, it houses a museum, where visitors can admire not only the architecture but also period furniture that helps recreate the atmosphere of early twentieth-century elite life in Mexico.

With the Torre Eiffel de Gómez Palacio, located in Durango, the French connection takes on a more symbolic form. This replica of the Eiffel Tower was installed in the early 2000s as part of a broader effort by local authorities to revitalize the city’s public spaces and create a recognizable landmark. Gómez Palacio has long been an industrial and railway hub, and the decision to build the tower reflects both civic pride and a desire to connect with a global icon of engineering and modernity.

Although it is not connected to Gustave Eiffel himself, the structure captures something powerful: the way the Eiffel Tower has become a universal symbol of innovation, romance, and aspiration. For residents, it represents more than a replica—it is a point of gathering, a visual landmark, and a reminder that global culture can be reinterpreted in local ways.

For a deeper and more immersive experience, the town of San Rafael , along with nearby Jicaltepec, offers a living legacy of French immigration in the state of Veracruz. Jicaltepec was established in 1833 as an agricultural colony by French settlers, who were drawn to the fertile lands nourished by the Nautla River. Many of these immigrants came from regions such as the Alps and eastern France, bringing with them farming techniques, baking traditions, and a strong connection to the land. They established agricultural communities, cultivating crops such as vanilla, citrus, and bananas.

Over time, the settlements of Jicaltepec and San Rafael grew into a unique cultural enclave where French and Mexican traditions blended. Even today, this heritage is visible in the local food. The region is known for its bakeries, as well as artisanal cheeses and dairy products influenced by French techniques, adapted to the tropical climate and local ingredients. Walking through the area, you can feel a quieter, more rural rhythm shaped by agriculture, tradition, and a history that connects Veracruz to Europe in a very tangible way.

These places remind us that Mexico’s identity is multi-faceted. French influence arrived during a time of ambition and transformation, leaving behind not only buildings but also traditions, flavors, and ideas that continue to evolve.

To travel through Mexico with this perspective is to see beyond expectations. It is to notice the details, the curve of an iron railing, the elegance of a façade, the taste of freshly baked bread—and to recognize that even here, far from France, its presence still lingers in quiet and surprising ways.

San Miguel de Allende

The Sweetest Adventure: Exploring the Best Bakeries in San Miguel

Leave a comment

By Michael Solof—

San Miguel de Allende is a haven for food lovers, especially those with a sweet tooth. As you wander the streets, the air is often filled with the aroma of freshly baked bread and pastries. It can make you stop in your tracks and search for the source of those incredible smells.

But have you ever wondered about the origins of these delicious treats? The city’s bakery culture is steeped in history and shaped by a strong French influence.

A Brief History of Bakeries: From France to San Miguel
Modern pastry traditions owe much to French baking from the 19th century. French bakers revolutionized the craft, introducing techniques that produced flaky pastries, crusty breads, and delicate desserts that quickly spread around the world.

As these methods reached Mexico, local bakers adapted them using regional ingredients such as cinnamon, chocolate, and corn. The result was a unique culinary fusion that combined European technique with Mexican flavor.

Over time, bakeries became more than places to buy bread. They evolved into community gathering spots where locals and visitors meet for coffee, conversation, and something sweet. Today, many establishments celebrate both Mexican holidays and European traditions, reflecting the rich cultural blend that defines San Miguel’s food scene.

My Six Favorite Bakeries in San Miguel
It was a tough choice, but these six stand out as personal favorites.

1. La Colmena Panadería (The Blue Door Bakery)
Relox 21
Open 7 days a week, hours vary

Founded in 1901, La Colmena is one of the oldest bakeries in the city. Known for traditional Mexican favorites such as conchas and pan de muerto, it has preserved its charm and authenticity for more than a century.

Warm and welcoming, La Colmena is a favorite meeting place for locals seeking a perfect pairing of coffee and something sweet. Its rustic setting reflects the long culinary heritage of the neighborhood.

2. Panadería La Antigua
Umarán 36
8am–10pm, Closed Wednesdays

At Panadería La Antigua traditional baking methods are the focus. Established in the late 1990s, it specializes in artisan breads made with local ingredients and time-honored recipes.

Its reputation for quality attracts both residents and visitors. In addition to sourdoughs and baguettes, the shop offers regional specialties, and its tortillas are among the most popular items. The space frequently features local artwork and community gatherings.

3. San Sebastián Panadería
Calzada de la Aurora 24
9am–10pm, Closed Sundays

A neighborhood favorite since the early 2000s, San Sebastián offers a wide range of baked goods based on family recipes passed down through generations.

From classic pastries to cakes and cookies, the selection changes with the seasons. The welcoming atmosphere and personal service make it a popular destination for birthdays, celebrations, and everyday indulgence.

4. Panadería El Maple
Salida a Celaya 53
8am–7:30pm, closed Sundays

Since opening in 2010, El Maple has built a reputation for creativity in the kitchen. Traditional Mexican recipes meet contemporary twists in items like chocolate croissants filled with locally sourced ingredients.

The bakery emphasizes sustainability, often purchasing ingredients from nearby farms and hosting workshops that teach baking with seasonal produce. Its modern style attracts a younger crowd eager for inventive flavors.

5. Bakery Sucré
Colegio Militar 3
8am–3pm

Sucré focuses on French-inspired pastries while incorporating local ingredients. Macarons, éclairs, and tarts share the display case with desserts flavored with coconut, mango, and other regional touches.

Known for its elegant presentation, Sucré has become a favorite destination for celebrations and special occasions. The refined interior reflects its French inspiration, creating a lovely setting for enjoying coffee and a pastry.

6. Marulier Luciérnaga
Two locations – Plaza Luciérnaga, Lib. José Manuel Zavala 165, and Ancha de San Antonio 121
8am–10pm

One of the newer additions to the local bakery scene, Marulier focuses on organic, gluten-free, and vegan offerings. Its gluten-free brownies and organic breads have quickly gained a loyal following.

Workshops and classes encourage customers to explore healthier approaches to baking and cooking. Bright interiors and eco-friendly practices make both locations welcoming spaces for the community.

How to Best Enjoy These Bakeries
Together, these establishments form an important part of San Miguel’s culinary landscape. They blend Mexican tradition with European technique while serving as gathering places for the community.

My favorite way to experience them? A bakery crawl.

Exploring several bakeries in one afternoon is a delicious adventure. Each stop offers new flavors, stories, and specialties. Whether you’re savoring a flaky croissant or enjoying a slice of tres leches cake, every bite reflects the rich cultural influences that shape the city’s food scene.

So grab some friends, lace up comfortable shoes, and set out on a sweet exploration of San Miguel. With so many tempting options along the way, you might just wish for a second—or even a third—stomach.
Happy munching!

Michael Solof leads SMA Adventure Hound, a group that takes locals and newcomers to brunches and dinners at different restaurants every week. He also offers classes in the Art of Smartphone Photography. You can contact him via WhatsApp +1-443-310-9214 for more info and to reserve.