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Three Thrilling Days in Mexico City

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By Marcia Chaiken and Jan Chaiken

We can’t quite imagine having only three days to explore the wonders of Mexico City. Even during decades of long-term visits when we enjoyed so many parks, museums, music venues, restaurants and theaters, it was sometimes difficult to select from the next available offerings. But realizing that you may not have the luxury of an extended vacation, we have selected two walkable sectors and a bus tour in CDMX as a possible limited three-day deep taste of the richness the city has to offer.

Centro Historico

The historic center of Mexico should not be missed. Almost all forms of transportation can bring you to the central zocalo (plaza) area (see the article by Julie Etra elsewhere in this issue). We suggest beginning at the beginning – the archeological Aztec site of the Templo Mayor (main temple, or Huēyi Teōcalli in Nahuatl). Walking through the remains and the museum that is run by the federal agency INAH (Instituto Nacional de Antropología e Historia) will help you appreciate the magnificence of the empire that existed in the 1300s. It was governed from the city of Tenochtitlan that was centered on this very spot – two hundred years before the Spanish invasion in the 1500s.

Leap ahead several centuries after the Spanish demolished this thriving empire – primarily through diseases brought from Europe – and across the zócalo visit the Metropolitan Cathedral of the Assumption of the Most Blessed Virgin Mary into Heaven, aka The CDMX Metropolitan Cathedral. This magnificent baroque structure, which opened in 1813, is a prime example of the persistent attempt of the Spanish invaders to supplant every aspect of the indigenous culture with their own, while using the wealth and physical strength of those whom they conquered to do so. The project began in1524 as a more modest church but over the following decades the plans for a cathedral developed with the involvement of the Pope. As you’ll no doubt find out on your tour, over the centuries, the architecture and furnishings became more and more elaborate.

We suggest then stopping by the ticket office at the National Palace to buy tickets for an afternoon entrance and tour. You might then spend some time exploring the handicrafts being sold by vendors in the zocalo. You’re likely to find some unique souvenirs. But perhaps more importantly, you’ll find that both the people and the crafts are a fine mix of the DNA and culture of both the indigenous and European people with modern ingenuity.

Once you’ve had enough of deciding which vendors deserve your pesos, we suggest walking the few blocks to the incredible cultural center Palacio de Bellas Artes. This is the home of the Ballet Folklorico, and if you’ve never seen them and your visit coincides with a performance, we urge you to purchase tickets at the box office on the first floor. Or find out what other musical performances are being presented that night either in the main auditorium (itself worth a tour) or upstairs in the small but acoustically perfect Sala Manuel M. Ponce. After purchasing entrance tickets to the upstairs art gallery, climb the stairs to continue your Mexican history education by studying the striking 1934 mural by Diego Rivera, Man at the Crossroads. Rivera basically incorporates his own view of the development of modernity in the details of this masterpiece. The other murals and art in the gallery are all deserving of discovery, but we urge you to spend sufficient time scrutinizing the Rivera mural until it becomes a permanent part of your memory.

You must be getting hungry by now, so head to the nearby Sanborns de los Azulejos (Sanborns in the House of Tiles, at Madero 4). You will probably need to put your name on a list to sit in the main dining room, but there is plenty to explore while you wait. One of the oldest restaurants in CDMX, and formerly an 18th Century palace, the architecture and artwork are enchanting. (And if your feet are beginning to blister, as in almost all Sanborns, there’s a pharmacy). After being seated, enjoy the ambiance, including many families with well-behaved children enjoying the dishes Sanborns has served for generations.

After you’re rested, watered and fed, wander slowly back to the zocalo, enjoying the sights and musical sounds of the area, and arrive the National Palace to view another Rivera masterpiece depicting the history of Mexico and other murals. In addition to the building, which has functioned as the seat of government for centuries since the time of Cortez, there is a garden within the walls which provides a quiet place for enjoying the plants and flowers and perhaps even a quick siesta. Had enough history? You might head over to the Museum of Modern Art – and stop by the always busy restaurant El Cardinal (next to the museum) to put your name on a list for a table for an early dinner before your evening performance at Bellas Artes. Or choose to visit the National Museum of Popular Arts and dine at the El Cardinal Alameda (in the Hilton Hotel Reforma, Avenida Juarez 70).

Chapultepec Park

You haven’t been to Mexico City if you haven’t been to the Park. Plan to spend the whole day. But before you enter the Park check out the National Auditorium ticket office to buy tickets for an evening performance either in the Auditorium or on the grounds of the Chapultepec Castle in the park. Begin your day in the park at the Museum of Anthropology (Paseo de la Reforma Avenue and Gandhi Street in the Polanco neighborhood). After buying your ticket, head right to the visitors’ services desk and ask about tours. The place is enormous and covers thousands of years, so a knowledgeable guide is useful for a first visit. If no tours are scheduled during your visit – don’t worry. Ask for a map of the museum and a suggested route. There will be videos and written explanations along your way. You are about to have an immersive experience of the many cultures that developed in Mexico while the Europeans were still painting themselves blue and literally living a hand-to-mouth existence. The artwork and crafts are remarkable, the religious practices well before the Aztecs are notable, and the opulent lifestyles of the royal classes rival those of today’s celebrities. And the variations between different times and geographical regions are well worth paying close attention to. If your head starts swimming and you need a break, there is a cafeteria with decent food and a lovely garden setting featuring, of course, huge artifacts from digs around the country. You could certainly spend the whole day in this museum, but most visitors find that four hours is the very most they can absorb.

Another rewarding visit in the park for plant lovers is the Botanical Gardens. There are over 300 botanical species, and whether you are a fan of cacti, orchids or dahlias, you will be delighted by the display. If you are more a lover of art than orchids, you have a decision to make. The Park’s Museum of Modern Art (MAM) has an interesting permanent collection, including works by Frida Kahlo, Diego Rivera, David Alfaro Siqueiros, and José Clemente Orozco. Our many trips to the museum have been for temporary exhibitions that have been serendipitously fascinating. On the other hand, you can head to the Tamayo Museum of Contemporary Art and blow your mind with over 300 paintings, sculptures and photographs by 170 artists that were collected by Olga and Rufino Tamayo.

Once you’ve seen almost more than your mind can take, we suggest a quiet stroll around the lake in the park. If you’ve selected an evening performance at the Chapultepec Castle, there are restaurants and carts with vendors selling a quick bite to eat before you climb the hill or take the trolley up to your performance. If you’re heading back to the National Auditorium, we suggest nearby El Bajio, always delicious and always busy – so call first to reserve.

Turibus

So … in two days you’ve walked your feet off and filled your brain with some of the best of Mexico City. For your third day, we urge you to take the Hop-on Hop-off Turibus around the city. We avoided taking the bus for years based on sheer snobbery, but broke down when one of our granddaughters joined us in CDMX for a week. The views of the different neighborhoods are lovely, the audio patter both educational and amusing, and places that are accessible (including the central historic area and the National Auditorium/Chapultepec Park) are a taste for your next trip to Mexico City. You might consider winding up your bus tour at the Soumaya Museum stop. The lovely little Degas miniatures on the top floor are alone worth a visit. If you are planning to do that, buy tickets for a performance at the Telcel Theater a block away. We’ve seen superb performances there of Broadway shows including Les Miz and the Lion King – in Spanish of course, but you already know the words. And for dinner before the performance, the mall Telcel Plaza Carso has a plethora of great restaurants.

Selecting places to visit in Mexico City in just three days is a challenge. We’ve had years of exploration and weren’t able to hit all the high spots. Still, we hope that, if you must curtail your time in the city, we’ve provided suggestions you will enjoy and will entice you to return.

 

 

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A Walk on the Weird Side: Way, WAY off the Beaten Track in Mexico City

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By Deborah Van Hoewyk

Elsewhere in this issue, you will find great hints for how to see Mexico City at its best. But … suppose you’ve done all that? Or maybe … suppose you want to see what’s not so “best”? One of my sharpest memories of Mexico City is inveigling my hubby into an open front oyster bar (I’m a big fan of oysters on the half-shell) that had lively, loud music and cheap oysters. His memory is that it was a prostitute joint, the oyster shuckers were all drunk, and a few had cuts dripping blood onto the oysters. Oh, well. (No one got sick.)

If you’re in search of your own unusual experience in Mexico City, here are four such diversions.

1. How about The Island of the Dolls (La Isla de las Muñecas)?

Xochimilco is a borough in southeastern Mexico City famous for its lakes and canals that run among those famous floating gardens, or chinampas. At its Aztec height, the Valley of Mexico was filled with lakes and canals connecting various settlements – Xochimilco was a city in its own right. The Eye has published articles on the chinampas, notably the Chaikens’ July 2024 piece on “Aztec ‘Farm to Table’ Cuisine.”

On one chinampa in Laguna Teshuilo, sometimes called “Tequila,” there is no food grown. Once owned (or taken care of) by Don Julián Santana Barrera, who died in 2001, the island is now covered in “dead dolls” – disfigured, discolored, dismembered, dolls. Legend has it that Don Julián discovered on the shore of the island (or maybe floating in the canal) the body of young girl, drowned, and he was frantic with dismay that he could not restore her to life. A day later, he discovered a doll floating in the canal, assumed it was hers, and hung it on a tree to appease her spirit. A day later, another doll, another tree. Her spirit apparently not appeased, Don Julián began a life-long search for abandoned dolls to be placed throughout the island.

In 2001, when Don Julián was 80, he was fishing with his nephew off the shore of the island. He started to sing, telling his nephew that mermaids were calling him into the water. The nephew went ashore for something, and when he came back, Barrera was floating in the canal, dead, in the same place he had found the girl. There is no confirmation that the drowning victim ever existed, but Don Julián’s family saw an opportunity and opened the island to tourists.

You can visit the island by trajinera, the colorful flat-bottomed boats that ply the canals of Xochimilco. Go by Metro to the boat launch Embarcadero Cuemanco, in the southeast part of the city, and rent a trajinara – same price for all who will fit, about four hours, expect to pay about $100 USD and up, plus tip. Make sure of the price, and that the destination is Island of the Dolls before you leave. You can also rent a kayak at Embarcadero Cuemanco, go in a group with a guide, and expect to pay about $65 USD, plus tip.

2. Speaking of Xochimilco, how about its most famous denizen, the axolotl?

When the Aztecs developed their lake-basin city, the axolotl thrived in its waters; the Spanish eventually drained everything but Xochimilco, which became the axolotls’ sole habitat. While your chances of seeing an axolotl in the wild from your trajinera are limited (they’re not that big, much of the water is pretty dirty), they are fascinating creatures worth the effort to see up close and personal. The Eye has run articles on this cutie amphibian (see “I ♥ Axolotls,” by Julie Etra, February 2024).

Axolotls are amphibians, but they’re “paedomorphic” – they stay little kids, i.e., they don’t really metamorphose into land animals. Although they can walk on the ground like their relatives the salamanders, like Melville’s Bartleby, they would “prefer not to.” They keep their gills and stay in the water for life. They can be small (6 inches fully grown) to large (18 inches); some are pink and cute, others are an uninspired mottled brown. They’ve made it into feature films, cartoons, documentaries, the computer game Minecraft, and Diego Rivera’s paintings, not to mention onto Mexican money and a postage stamp.

Axolotls are an indicator species for amphibians, that is, their health and the health of their environment tell us a lot about the fate of amphibians in general – from flourishing to on the edge of extinction. Axolotls are of great interest in terms of medical research, as they are extremely good at regenerating missing body parts.

Unfortunately, pollution and competing invasive species in the Xochimilco canals have decimated the axolotl populations. Despite funding cuts for research and support programs under Mexico’s last president, Andrés Manuel López Obrador (AMLO, researchers at the Autonomous University of Mexico (UNAM) have undertaken restoration efforts. Working with the chinamperos (farmers), they have set up bamboo cages in the canals as “refuges” for axolotls, where their growth and health are monitored.

You can learn more about the axolotls at a couple of places. In the Chapultepec Zoo, you will find Anfibium, the Museo del Axolote y Centro de Conservación de Anfibios, a museum and preservation center devoted to preserving Mexican amphibians, especially the axolotl. Very Science Friday, for fans of U.S. public radio. Both the Zoo and the Anfibium are free; the Anfibium is closed Mondays, otherwise open from 10 AM to 3:30 PM.

There is also Axolotitlán, the Museum of the Axolotl, located in Parque Tarango, also called El Segundo Parque de las Águilas. The park is southwest of the city center – a taxi or UBER will take you out Prolongación 5 de Mayo to the park; the museum is at # 521. The museum is closed Mondays, otherwise open from 9 AM to 4 PM; apparently there are tours to Xochimilco to see the work being done there, although you would have to inquire.

On February 1 and 2, the Museo celebrates the Día Nacional del Axolote, with everything from academic conferences and documentaries to kids’ activities and muchas mas sorpresas! In this case, adults pay $100 MXN and kids $50 MXN to get in.

3. As we all know, Mexico’s politics are intertwined with violence. Early babyboomers may remember the Tlatelolco Massacre.

The year 1968 saw worldwide protests driven by left-wing politics aimed at reducing social inequality, upholding racial civil rights, supporting workers’ rights, and expressing anti-war and anti-military sentiment. Combined with the rise of a youth counterculture, demonstrations broke out across the western world (in the US, France, England, Italy, and elsewhere).

In 1968, Mexico was preparing to host the Olympics, and there was great concern about whether protests, ongoing since early summer, against the repressive PRI government would disrupt the event. On October 2, students from UNAM, the National Polytechnic Institute, and other universities, gathered in the Plaza of Three Cultures in the Tlatelolco section area of the Cuahtémoc borough in what was supposed to be another peaceful protest against the government. While it took years for the official documents to be released, there is now general agreement that the Olympia Battalion, organized by then-president Gustavo Díaz Ordaz for Olympic security, was signaled to close off the square by flares shot into the square from helicopters. There is less agreement on whether the Olympia Battalion had been instructed to fire covertly on Mexican soldiers, thus causing them to fire on the demonstrators. But fire they did, killing anywhere from 28 to 300-400 demonstrators and onlookers.

Memorial 68 is a museum that tells the story of any number of protests by the Mexican people, but it emphasizes 1968 and the Tlatelolco Massacre.

The museum is located at Avenida Ricardo Flores Magón 1, in Tlatelolco, near the site of the massacre. It is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. Admission is free on Sundays; otherwise, it’s $40 MXN, half price for students, teachers, and members of INAPAM (seniors), IMSS, and ISSSTE.

There’s also La Piedra del ’68 (The Stone of ’68), which commemorates the student protests of 1968. Unveiled in 1998, 30 years after the event, it incorporates a volcanic rock from the UNAM campus, with quotes from student leaders. You can find it at Eje 7 Sur Extremadura,in the Insurgentes Mixcoac neighborhood of the borough of Benito Juárez.

4. Are you into ruin porn?

“Ruin porn” is shorthand for the capture – by photographing, writing about, or observing – of urban decay. While travelers, writers, and painters have been “doing the ruins” since the Renaissance, this go-round is devoted to cataloguing the decline of cities as they abandon various areas in favor of something new. Basically, it’s an over-enthusiastic taste for detritus left behind when cities don’t clean up after themselves.

Mexico, of course, is rife with ancient ruins, and LIDAR (light detection and ranging) technology is finding more hidden in Mexico’s jungles every day. These are not the stuff of ruin porn. But, oh, the Desert of the Lions – no desert, no lions – is definitely ruin porn.

Ex Convento del Desierto de los Leones is the name of a ruined monastery – in this case, called a convent – and of Mexico’s first national park, where the convent’s remains are located. Built by barefoot Spanish Carmelite monks in 1606, the monastery was christened “desierto” for its distance from the center of Mexico City (although it lies entirely within today’s CDMX, in the borough of Cuajimalpa de Morelos), and “leones” because the Spanish were surprised at how many pumas, which they called “lions,” there were in the area. It might also have been called “de los Leones” because there is evidence that the Leon family financed at least some, if not all, of its construction. (It is referred to as a convent in part because the Carmelites were an order of both friars and nuns, although there is no evidence that there were ever nuns in residence.)

By 1810, the barefoot monks (think of the rattlesnakes, the scorpions, the tarantulas!) had abandoned the monastery. Already starting to decay from excessive humidity, and the monks’ desire to avoid being involved in the just-started War of Independence against Spain, El Desierto de los Leones served briefly as a military barracks, and then was left to what engineers call “graceful degradation.” There are those, however, who say the monks never left, and their spirits haunt the buildings and grounds.

President Lerdo de Tejada declared the area a national reserve in 1876, and President Venustiano Carranzo named it a national park in 1917.

There are any number of ways to reach the national park and/or the monastery, but you will need to be resourceful. The best way to is to take an UBER – it should be less than $10 USD and take about 45 minutes, depending on where you start. Be sure to specify you are going to the Ex Convento del Desierto de los Leones (the Convento del Desierto de los Leones is on the north side of CDMX), that you want to be picked up to return, and what time. It is possible to get there by public transportation, but the end stages are ever-changing. Take the metro to Barranca del Muerto station (line 7), whence you can take a bus to Santa Rosa, and then a taxi or walk – Internet reports say the number of the bus to Santa Rosa changes, where it goes changes, and sometimes it goes right to the park so no need for a taxi. There are other metro stations fairly close by, then use the taxi technique. Getting BACK by public transportation is an iffy proposition, make sure you find out how to do that when you are dropped off. There are organized tours that visit the convent, and hiking tours that include the convent and hiking in the park – they tend to be on the pricey side.

The former monastery is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. The admission fee is 20 pesos per person and allows access to the building and its outer grounds. There are food stalls at the entrance, so you won’t go hungry or thirsty. Watch your step to avoid rattlesnakes, and do not sample the mushrooms – the ones here are all toxic!

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Things to See and Do in Mexico City

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By Jane Bauer

1. Soumaya Museum
One of the best museums in the world, its iconic, futuristic design, covered in hexagonal aluminum tiles, houses over 66,000 artworks. The museum features diverse collections, including pre-Hispanic artifacts, European art, and modern Mexican works. Admission is free, making it accessible to all. Named after Carlos Slim’s late wife, it’s a must-visit destination for art, history, and design enthusiasts.

2. National Museum of Anthropology
Considered one of the finest museums in the world, this is an essential stop to truly understand Mexico’s rich cultural and historical tapestry. Its impressive architecture leads to exhibits that showcase pre-Columbian civilizations, such as the Aztecs, Mayans, Olmecs, and Toltecs. The iconic Aztec Sun Stone and intricate Mayan artifacts are highlights. Set aside plenty of time to wander through its spacious halls and lush courtyards..

3. Zócalo (Plaza de la Constitución)
The heart of Mexico City, the Zócalo, is one of the largest city squares in the world and a hub of Mexican history and culture. Visit the Metropolitan Cathedral, which blends baroque and neoclassical styles. Don’t miss the National Palace, home to Diego Rivera’s monumental murals depicting Mexico’s history. The square comes alive during festivals and events, such as Día de los Muertos and Independence Day celebrations.

4. Frida Kahlo Museum (La Casa Azul)
Located in the charming neighborhood of Coyoacán, this museum is a tribute to the life and work of iconic Mexican artist Frida Kahlo. The “Blue House,” where she was born and later lived with Diego Rivera, is filled with her personal belongings, artwork, and fascinating memorabilia. The lush garden and bright blue walls create an intimate setting that provides insight into her artistic and personal world.

5. Teotihuacán Pyramids
Just a short drive from the city, the ancient city of Teotihuacán is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most significant archaeological sites in Mexico. Walk along the Avenue of the Dead, climb the Pyramid of the Sun for a breathtaking view, and explore the Pyramid of the Moon. The site’s history remains mysterious, with roots that predate the Aztecs, who later adopted and revered it.

6. Roma and Condesa Neighborhoods
Known for their bohemian vibe, these trendy areas offer charming streets, Art Deco architecture, boutique shops, art galleries, and excellent restaurants and cafes.

7. Vasconcelos Library
This “Megabiblioteca,” is a stunning blend of architecture and literature. Designed by Alberto Kalach, its futuristic structure features floating bookshelves, lush gardens, and open spaces that inspire creativity. Housing over 600,000 volumes, it’s both a cultural and architectural marvel. Named after philosopher José Vasconcelos, it’s a haven for book lovers and a symbol of Mexico’s dedication to knowledge and innovation.

8. Palacio de Bellas Artes
This cultural gem is an architectural masterpiece, combining Art Nouveau and Art Deco styles. Inside, the main hall is adorned with a Tiffany stained-glass curtain, and the upper levels house murals by renowned Mexican artists like Diego Rivera. The venue hosts performances ranging from ballet to opera, making it an epicenter for the arts. Even if you don’t catch a show, the building is worth visiting for its beauty alone.

9. San Juan Market (Mercado de San Juan)
Food lovers won’t want to miss this iconic market, famous for its wide variety of gourmet and exotic foods. You’ll find everything from fresh seafood and high-quality meats to exotic ingredients like edible insects. It’s a great place to try authentic Mexican dishes or even sample international flavors. The lively atmosphere and bustling stalls make it a feast for the senses.

10. Torre Latinoamericana
Once the tallest building in Mexico City, this iconic skyscraper is a testament to the city’s resilience, having withstood several major earthquakes. Head to the observation deck for stunning panoramic views of the sprawling metropolis, especially beautiful at sunset or after dark when the city lights twinkle. There’s also a café and a small museum to enjoy while you take in the sights.

7. Vasconcelos Library
This “Megabiblioteca,” is a stunning blend of architecture and literature. Designed by Alberto Kalach, its futuristic structure features floating bookshelves, lush gardens, and open spaces that inspire creativity. Housing over 600,000 volumes, it’s both a cultural and architectural marvel. Named after philosopher José Vasconcelos, it’s a haven for book lovers and a symbol of Mexico’s dedication to knowledge and innovation.

8. Palacio de Bellas Artes
This cultural gem is an architectural masterpiece, combining Art Nouveau and Art Deco styles. Inside, the main hall is adorned with a Tiffany stained-glass curtain, and the upper levels house murals by renowned Mexican artists like Diego Rivera. The venue hosts performances ranging from ballet to opera, making it an epicenter for the arts. Even if you don’t catch a show, the building is worth visiting for its beauty alone.

9. San Juan Market (Mercado de San Juan)
Food lovers won’t want to miss this iconic market, famous for its wide variety of gourmet and exotic foods. You’ll find everything from fresh seafood and high-quality meats to exotic ingredients like edible insects. It’s a great place to try authentic Mexican dishes or even sample international flavors. The lively atmosphere and bustling stalls make it a feast for the senses.

10. Torre Latinoamericana
Once the tallest building in Mexico City, this iconic skyscraper is a testament to the city’s resilience, having withstood several major earthquakes. Head to the observation deck for stunning panoramic views of the sprawling metropolis, especially beautiful at sunset or after dark when the city lights twinkle. There’s also a café and a small museum to enjoy while you take in the sights.

Huatulco

Public Transportation in Mexico City

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By Julie Etra

Pre-Hispanic Transportation
The original form of transportation in the pre-conquest city of Tenochtitlán, now modern Mexico City, was by flat-bottomed canoes called trajineras. It is unclear if there was any form of “public” transportation through the canal systems surrounding the island. Some of these canals persisted until about 1920 and continued to be used for commerce—particularly for transporting food and flowers—as well as for personal transportation. At the time, these canals and aqueducts connected the heart of the city to areas like Chalco and Xochimilco in the south. Xochimilco, and to a lesser extent Lago Nabor Carrillo, are existing remnants of the pre-conquest wetland system. Lago Nabor Carrillo, an artificial rectangular lake, is what remains of Lake Texcoco. It is hydrologically isolated, contains numerous wells, and serves as a water storage system for Mexico City.
The 20th Century
Electric trams, or tranvías as they are known in Spanish, began operating in the historic central part of the city in the 1900s. These streetcars were initially horse-drawn but were later modernized with overhead electrical lines while still using the original rail system. The Compañía de Tranvías Eléctricos de México took ownership of the city’s public transportation network in 1901. As automobiles became more popular in the 1930s, public transportation expanded to include an extensive bus system that served what were then considered the outskirts of the city, such as Coyoacán.
The newer Servicio de Transportes Eléctricos was organized in 1947 but did not completely take control of the system until 1952. Following the activation of the Metro system (see below), tram routes were gradually abandoned until the last urban tram—including the circuito histórico (historic district route)—closed in 1979.
In 1925, the wooden bus in which Frida Kahlo was traveling back to her home in Coyoacán was hit by a heavier metal tram, resulting in the severe accident that crippled the artist when she was only 18 years old.

The Metro System
After decades of relying on color-coded buses, the Mexico City Metro was first conceived in 1967. The first line opened in 1969, covering an initial route of 12.7 kilometers (7.9 miles). The system was built in response to the ever-increasing traffic of the mid-1950s, particularly in the downtown historic center, where it was often said to be faster to walk than to drive.
This rapid transit system is the second-largest in North America, following the New York City subway. As of 2015, it included 12 lines and 195 stations, with 115 of those stations underground. The deepest station lies 35 meters (115 feet) below ground. The Metro uses pneumatic (rubber) tires, which ensure a quieter and smoother ride compared to steel wheels. Many stations are named after historical figures or events, providing an educational experience along with transportation.
Engineering assistance for the Metro was provided by France, including the pneumatic technology. Construction occurred in seven phases, with the last phase completed in 2015. The design also accounted for earthquakes; rectangular structures were used instead of arches, which helped the system withstand the 8.0 earthquake of 1985 with minimal damage. During that event, the Metro was shut down to avoid electrocution and to allow for debris removal.
Excavation for the Metro yielded more than 20,000 archaeological findings, as well as fossils, including mammoth bones. During the construction of Stage 1 in the late 1960s, the Mexica Temple of Ehécatl was discovered near the future Pino Suárez station, requiring a complete redesign of the project.
You can buy a Metro Card at ticket booths and vending machines in the Metro station, from the machines in a Metrobús station, or from the ticket windows in the light rail stations. The Metro Card is rechargeable at those locations. If you have a Metro Card, you can use it for the Ecobici public bicycles – there are other ways to use the bikes, check them out on https://mexicocity.cdmx.gob.mx/e/getting-around/ecobici/.

Cablebús
Construction of an alternative public transportation system, Sistema de Transporte Público (also known as Cablebús), was announced on February 7, 2019, by then-Mayor of Mexico City and current President Claudia Sheinbaum. It began operation on July 11, 2021. This aerial cable car system features three lines and 19 stations, spanning a total of 24.75 kilometers (15.4 miles). It was developed primarily to relieve traffic congestion in high-density neighborhoods, although Line 3 offers scenic views of Chapultepec Park. The system is operated by Servicio de Transportes Eléctricos, the same agency that manages other branches of public transportation.
The fare is seven pesos ($0.34 USD), and children under five and adults over 70 ride for free. Tickets and prepaid passes are available at stations. Line 1 consists of 377 gondolas, each seating up to 10 people (weighing 75–80 kg or 165–176 lbs per person). The ride takes about 33 minutes at a speed of 21.6 kilometers (13.4 miles) per hour. Line 3 conveniently connects to Line 7 of the Metro system.

The detachable gondolas, manufactured by the Swiss company CWA Construction, feature foldable wooden seats that allow entry for bicycles and walkers. Ventilation systems are located in the lower part of the cabin, eliminating the need for air conditioning during the summer. Additionally, the gondolas include interior and exterior lighting, Wi-Fi, surveillance cameras, and anti-vandalism technology.
We plan to visit Mexico City in late February 2025 and will share our personal experience of using the Cablebús system. The views of the city from this modern, rapid, and efficient mode of transportation should be spectacular, especially on a clear day.

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Capturing the Art and Importance of Storytelling: My Ten Favorite Reads of 2024

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By Carole Reedy

The best moments in reading are when you come across something – a thought, a feeling, a way of looking at things – which you had thought special and particular to you. Now here it is, set down by someone else, a person you have never met, someone even who is long dead. And it is as if a hand has come out and taken yours.
— Alan Bennett, The History Boys (2004)

The long hours I spend reading and thinking about reading are certainly disproportionate to my other daily activities. What I remember most about a book is not so much the plot or even the characters, but rather the way I felt while reading it: the compulsion to keep reading, the heightened emotions evoked by a character’s glance or the fevered pace of a city or a raging river.

I’m convinced that treasured book memories are made from good stories. As Brian Doyle, author of one of the books listed below, so eloquently put it, “The best way to celebrate a people is to share their stories. Stories are who we are, what we are made of” (Chicago: A Novel, 2016).

Long Island Compromise, by Taffy Brodesser-Akner (2024). This chronicle of a New York family is disturbing, realistic, and so vividly frightening at times that the reader may actually share the physical pain of the characters.

The ability of the author to describe the suffering of a drug addict, the lack of self-confidence from uncertainty, or a young sibling’s disgust at the actions of her wealthy family are all brought fully to life in this wide-ranging story.

Brodesser-Akner was the author of the popular novel Fleishman Is in Trouble (2019) which was made into a TV mini-series with Jesse Eisenberg (2022-23). From my point of view, both novels can be categorized as unputdownable and emotionally draining.

Tomorrow and Tomorrow and Tomorrow, by Gabrielle Zevin (2023). This emotionally packed novel has been lauded by young and old alike. And even though I’m in the latter cohort, I can attest to the brilliant rendering of the book’s three young gamers over the decades this novel spans.

Perhaps you, as was I, are not current on the lives of gamers or of gaming in general. How can I read, let alone praise, a book whose subject is alien to my experience of life (though isn’t this part of what drives us to read)? That was my initial response to a friend who recommended this book. She encouraged me to try it and I’m grateful I trusted her judgment and followed her advice.

In this book, deeply engrossing characters and their friendships grow over time. Their astute thought processes so enchanted me that I immediately read more novels by this young author.

Zevin’s The Storied Life of A.J. Fikry (2014) should be added to this list of favorite books. I challenge a lover of reading to find fault with this little treasure about a small bookstore on a small island.

Tomás Nevinson, by Javier Marías (2023). This is, sadly, Marías’ final novel. His illustrious writing career was cut short at the age of 70 after a case of pneumonia. Marías’ lengthy sentences and attention to detail consistently delight serious readers and grammarians alike. There is no other writer like him.

One wisely will read the penultimate novel, Berta Isla: A Novel (2019), first, as it sets the stage and plot for this thriller. The duality of two terror organizations, Ireland’s IRA and Spain’s ETA, provides all the color necessary for a tense plot. The characters, as always in a Marías novel, are finely honed.

Praise also goes to Marías’ loyal and constant English translator Margaret Jull Costa, in whom he had the greatest belief. Marías himself spoke excellent English and yet he entrusted this brilliant translator with his creations.

Palimpsest: A Memoir, by Gore Vidal (1995). For many of us, Vidal holds a special place on the bookshelf as a prominent writer of novels, journalist, magazine contributor, political observer, and bon vivant of society in the last half of the 20th century. His wit has consistently transported him to the front of any event or issue.

Vidal, famous for his strict care with words and phrasing, most definitely describes this book not as an autobiography, but as a memoir – a book of memories. Throughout, as one memory sparks others, he precisely recounts the adventure of his talented and privileged life and the famous and prestigious people with whom he rubbed elbows.

There is no greater pleasure than a sentence or phrase penned by Vidal.

Erasure: A Novel, by Percival Everett (2001) looks at societal judgements from a different perspective.

Everett’s main character feels misunderstood not by the white majority but by those in his own community who accuse him of “not being black enough.” Indeed, the subject matter and style of the literature he creates are thought by his fellow people of color not to be typical of them, and thus a betrayal.

What follows depicts the sad state of the publishing industry and a conundrum for our protagonist. How to change his image within his community and what price fame? His daring attempt to address the issue in a freshly written book – complete with twists, turns, humorous surprises, and the public’s response – will stun you.

Everett’s most recent work, James: A Novel (2024) has just won the National Book Award for this year. James was also shortlisted for this year’s Booker Prize.

Snap, by Belinda Bauer (2018) was a surprise choice for the long list by The Booker Prize committee the year it was published.

“It’s the sort of commercial fiction that tends to outsell the rest of the longlist put together but which the Man Booker judges are supposedly too snotty and set in their literary ways to consider,” writes Johanna Thomas Corr in The New Statesman (August 29, 2018). Nonetheless, the committee proved her wrong and nominated Snap for the long list.

This compelling story is based on a true incident: the kidnapping and murder of Marie Wilks, 22, seven months’ pregnant with her fourth child, on the M50 motorway in England. The pace of the text, the heart-stopping emotion, and the rendering of the story of the children left behind places Bauer among the finest of crime writers.

The character depictions are spot on, the writing concise and colorful, and the plot suspenseful. A delightful surprise “find” for this reader.

Knife: Meditations after an Attempted Murder, by Salman Rushdie (2024). Special recognition must be accorded Rushdie, a prolific writer of fascinating stories, for his consistent courage in the wake of attempts to restrain his literary pursuits.

The world watched and lived with the years-long fatwa imposed on the author by the Ayatollah Ruhollah Khomeini after publication of Rushdie’s novel The Satanic Verses (1988).

More recently, Rushdie narrowly survived a knife attack in Connecticut. Knife is the elegantly rendered story of that attack and Rushdie’s unexpected recovery in the midst of his family and dear friends, many of whom are prominent writers and to whom he pours out his sincere emotion and thanks.

This most personal and desperate of stories is deservedly on many best-book lists this year.

Chicago: A Novel, by Brian Doyle (2016). I brimmed with pride while reading this highly personal story of a young man who spends just five seasons in the Second City.

Chicago is the city that owns me. It is my identity, and this book allows the Windy City to shine, if sometimes through the smog, rush-hour traffic, and the usual disruptions of big city living.

Here’s a personal story of a young man who begins his working life at a Catholic magazine in Chicago’s Loop. The days and years follow him through the city’s neighborhoods and more intimately through life at his apartment building, which is filled with eccentric tenants.

The writing is personal, witty, and bursting with the conflicting emotions and excitement of a newcomer to a grand city.

For me, this book was the most satisfying surprise of my year’s reading.

Anita Monte Laughs Last, by Xóchitl González (2024). Here is a story that satisfies on many levels: artistically, politically, and socially.

It tells the tale of two women artists a generation apart, their similarities and differences within the art world and their relationships with men and society. I’m not a fan of magical realism, but González’ use of it in the second half of the book is cerebral, bitingly humorous, and pitch perfect.

If you haven’t read González’s first book, you’re in for a double treat. Olga Dies Dreaming (2021) is the story of a Puerto Rican family in New York that includes anarchist parents, a politically ambitious son, and Olga, who struggles with her own identity as a Latina professional woman.

Both books are richly entertaining while teaching us about our southern neighbors, Cuba and Puerto Rico.

Death at the Sign of the Rook: A Jackson Brodie Book, by Kate Atkinson (2024). A reader’s first reaction to this book might be one of merriment. Many have told me that they laughed out loud while reading it.

Art theft, suspicious caregivers, and an old, privileged family are the entertaining elements that make this a rich and enjoyable read. A troupe of actors adds another humorous element. One friend, however, did share that although engaging and humorous, it was “a little too Agatha Christie” for her. That may intrigue you.

Repeat readers of Atkinson’s novels know to expect the unexpected from her. Subject matter and tone vary from book to book, making each a delightful surprise.

Now we enter 2025, which we hope will deliver a bookbag filled with new novels to while away our hours. On that note, I leave 2024 thinking of Elif Shafak, the Turkish writer and essayist, who reminds us that “We are living in a world in which there is way too much information, but little knowledge and even less wisdom.”

Perhaps our world’s storytellers will rectify the balance in the future.

Huatulco

You – Yes, You! The Impact of Tourism on Mexico’s Water Shortage

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By Deborah Van Hoewyk

We’ve probably all heard about the water crisis in Mexico City (see Julie Etra’s article elsewhere in this issue), but Mexico City’s problems are just the worst example of a country-wide shortage of water.

· Historically, 30 of Mexico’s 32 states have suffered from water scarcity; currently, drought conditions affect all of Mexico except Oaxaca and parts of Veracruz and Puebla. January to May of this year was the driest spring ever recorded.
· Having water is not the same as getting water – in places with plumbing, up to 40% of the water is lost through leaks in poorly maintained piping. Huatulco homeowners often experience water cutoffs (rumor has it that the water is diverted to the fancier hotels).
· Reservoirs have receded, leaving mudflats littered with trash, surrounding brownish ponds where once there were sparkling lakes; some have been closed. Perhaps worst off are the three reservoirs that comprise the Cutzamala system, which supplies Mexico City. Authorities started reducing the water distribution in October 2023; in June, they shut it down for 6 hours to make repairs. Fortunately, the rainy season has restored the Cutzamala system to 67% of capacity, from a low of 28% in June (the system is completely closed when the level drops to 20%).

Tourism and Water

Despite the water crisis, Mexico is a wildly popular tourism destination. In 2022, tourism employed 2.8 million people, over 7% of the Mexican workforce, who served over 38 million visitors. In 2023, Mexico as a tourist destination was 4th in the world, 2nd in North America; over 42 million tourists visited Mexico. In 2022, tourism spending constituted 8.5% of Mexico’s GDP; in 2024, estimates say it will make up 14.2% of GDP – tourism brought in $2.3 billion in June of 2024 alone.

All those tourists, including non-resident snowbirds, presumably come from places that are not experiencing a water crisis. And they bring their water consumption habits with them, along with a pretty accurate perception that drinking tap water is not a good idea in much of Mexico (see the Chaikens’ article elsewhere in this issue). A 2012 article on “Tourism and Water Use” in the journal Tourism Management indicates that each tourist visiting Mexico used 300 liters – just shy of 80 gallons – of water per day; in Randy Jackson’s article elsewhere in this issue, tourism consumed 15% of Huatulco’s water supply.

Current data on just how many tourists are using that water are hard to come by, outdated, and generally only count people who arrive by plane; we do know that nearly 500,000 people arrived at the Huatulco airport in 2018, and that arrivals this year are almost back to pre-pandemic levels. As tourism increases, so does tourist water usage. Rest assured, however, it’s not just that those folks are splish-splashing, taking a bath. Direct consumption of water is far from the only impact tourism has on Mexico’s water supply.

The Price of “Big Tourism”

There are those who argue that Mexico’s government privileges the interests of tourists and the tourist industry over those of local people, especially through large-scale tourism projects that bring more tourists. Referred to in 2023 as “anchor products” by then Secretary of Tourism Miguel Torruco Marqués, they include new and remodeled airports, the highway from Oaxaca to the coast, the largest aquarium in Latin America (in Mazatlán), the Callejón de Liverpool honoring the Beatles (also in Mazatlán), museums, arenas, and a Chinatown in Baja. More tourists, more swimming pools, more 5.3-gallon garrafones de agua.

The biggest “anchor product” of them all is the Tren Maya (Mayan train), pet project of Mexico’s last president, Andrés Manuel López Obrador. Intended to promote – Torruco Marqués said “detonate” – tourism in the Yucatán, the train will transport visitors from Mayan ruin to Mayan ruin throughout the Yucatán Peninsula, with side stops for other attractions. The track runs for 1,554 km (about 966 miles); the seven sections run from Palenque in Chiapas up to Mérida in Yucatán, over to Cancún and down to Chetumal in Quintana Roo, and back over to Escárcega in Campeche. In addition to tourist passengers, the train will carry freight; notably, the primary freight client is Pemex (Petróleos Mexicanos), which will be hauling fuel.

Various efforts to make the Mayan Train sustainable have taken place. The train itself provides low-impact public transportation, reducing traffic emissions. Portions are electrified or hybrid ultra-low-sulfur diesel and electric, there’s an extensive tree-planting program to replace the clear-cutting for the track, there are safe passages for wildlife, and large portions of track have been elevated to avoid disrupting the landscape beneath the tracks.

The Mayan Train and the Great Maya Aquifer

Missing, however, seems to be any concern for the Great Maya Aquifer (Gran Acuifero Maya, or GAM) one of the world’s largest aquifers, extending through the states of Yucatán, Quintana Roo, Tabasco, and Chiapas. It provides drinking water for 5 million people – if you’ve ever gone swimming in a Yucatán cenote, a water-filled sinkhole, you’ve been in the GAM.

The Yucatán peninsula was once a huge underwater coral reef, but has risen out of the sea to form a plain composed of porous coralline and limestone, and the latter is water soluble. When rain, which is slightly acid, falls on the peninsula, it percolates through to the underground cave system, wearing away the limestone. When the limestone is weakened by serving as a water filter, it collapses into the underground system, creating the open-air cenotes.

The GAM is a network of underground caves and rivers. The Great Maya Aquifer Project, part of the National Institute of Archeology and History (INAH), is mapping the aquifer and investigating “cave archeology and paleontology” – basically, what fell, or what the Maya threw, in the water, along with artifacts and wall paintings done before the caves filled up.

The Mayan train speeds over the aquifer, sometimes on crumbling limestone only three feet thick. Track builders drove 15,000 long pilings down through the limestone and into the aquifer to support the train; the impact of construction on the aquifer has yet to be measured. The process coats once pristine caves with a shards of concrete and broken stalactites. According to Guillermo D. Christy, a civil engineer with the group Cenotes Urbanos, a voluntary collective focused on preserving the cenotes of the Yucatan, “Pouring concrete into a cavern, directly into the aquifer, without any concern or care – That’s total ecocide.”

Tourism’s Indirect Effects

Less direct are the impacts of increased tourism brought by the Mayan Train. As the Yucatán population has increased (Playa del Carmen had 46,000 people in 2000, and 304,000 in 2020 – a 661% increase), the cenotes have been filling with the trash and human waste generated by too-rapid urbanization. Nearly 50% of individual wells have registered contamination. The cenotes and the wells connect to the aquifer.

Contaminating the water supply destroys more than clean drinking water. One of Tulum’s more popular tourist attractions is a cenote park called Dos Ojos (“Two Eyes”). Dos Ojos is a community-managed attraction in the nearby ejido of Jacinto Pat (ejidos are community-owned lands). Recent explorations have revealed that Dos Ojos is connected with the aquifer. The path of the train was routed around the two main cenotes, but passes directly over several others.

Some Jacinto Pat residents are not happy. An article in Time magazine (by Soraya Kishwari, January 2023) focused on the Maya Train’s impact on indigenous lifeways. One villager spoke anonymously about not wanting the Mayan Train: “It will destroy the jungle, our home, and contaminate the cenotes, our life source.” Gabriel Mazón, a resident who refused to move to make way for the train, says, “As a people, we have allowed ourselves to be bought … there is no support from indigenous people [for the Maya Train]. If our ancestors could see what is being done in their name, they would die of sadness, knowing how they have been profaned, prostituted, and their culture and traditions used.” Mazón continued, “We are little more than a brand or marketing slogan for the government. The people have already been paid off. There will be no more benefits. All we have left to wait for now is the invasion.”

Changing a culture by changing its environment is a very complicated issue. As culture and local heritage are redefined to meet tourist expectations – as they are made into commodities that are more “salable” to outsiders – culture and heritage change to reflect the value placed on them by those outsiders. You can live without water for three days; living without your history is a long, slow death.

Huatulco

5 things: Polanco CDMX

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By Sophia Canavati

Polanco, a dynamic neighborhood in Mexico City, offers a unique blend of luxurious accommodations, culinary delights, and cultural attractions. Whether you’re seeking a cozy retreat or an adventure through local flavors and history, Polanco has something for everyone. Here are five must-know highlights for your stay in this exciting area.

Stay:
Orchid House:
A charming boutique hotel that blends the warmth of home with the sophistication of high-end hospitality. Each room is thoughtfully designed, creating an intimate environment that feels both relaxing and luxurious, making it a perfect base for exploring the neighborhood of Polanco.
http://www.orchidhousehotels.com

Visit:
Chapultepec Castle
Perched atop a hill in Chapultepec Park, this castle offers a glimpse into Mexico’s history and stunning panoramic views. Once a royal residence, the castle now houses a museum filled with artifacts and artwork. Explore its lush gardens and opulent interiors for a memorable outing that combines culture, history, and breathtaking scenery.

Jumex Museum
Contemporary art space that showcases an impressive collection of modern works, making it a vital part of Mexico City’s cultural landscape. With rotating exhibitions featuring both local and international artists, this museum offers an engaging environment for art lovers. Its sleek architecture and commitment to promoting innovative art make it a compelling destination for those looking to explore the cutting edge of the art world.

Eat
La Docena:
An oyster bar and grill that puts the spotlight on fresh, high-quality ingredients. This eatery showcases the best of Mexico’s seafood and employs refined techniques to enhance the natural flavors of each dish. Diners can indulge in a variety of oysters, ceviches, and grilled specialties, all presented with a touch of elegance that celebrates the culinary heritage of the region.

El Turix:
For a more traditional taqueria experience, this is the local go-to spot for authentic cochinita pibil and tamales. Each bite of their succulent cochinita, wrapped in soft tortillas, transports you to the heart of Yucatecan cuisine, making it a must-visit for taco enthusiasts.

 

Huatulco

The Taxi Industry in Huatulco

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By Randy Jackson

One prominent feature on the streets of Huatulco is the abundance of taxis. Many, including both tourists and locals, rely on taxi service. At a casual glance, the diversity of colored cabs suggests numerous taxi companies. But how many companies exist, and how do taxi regulations and economic factors shape the industry in Huatulco? For the taxi curious of Huatulco, I have pulled together some information on the taxi industry here.

Taxis – a Public Service

Taxis throughout the world make up part of government-regulated public transportation networks. The importance of taxis is most critical in places like Mexico, where many people do not own their own vehicles. In Mexico overall, there are 391 private vehicles per 1,000 people (2022 data). By comparison, in the United States there are 908 private vehicles per 1,000 people, and in Canada that number is 790 per 1,000 people. In Huatulco, with poor rural communities alongside a tourism area, taxis are in great demand. According to the 2019 taxi registration list for the state of Oaxaca, there are 629 taxis within the municipality of Santa María Huatulco, the local governing body for the resort area of Huatulco. These taxis service the needs of a population of about 50,000-55,000 people.

The state of Oaxaca oversees taxis throughout the entire state, which includes 570 municipalities. In order to operate, each taxi requires a “concession,” good for five years, which can then be renewed. The concessions are usually owned by a taxi company, although any given taxi can be owned by the company or by the driver. Since 2013, the number of taxi concessions in Santa María Huatulco (629) has remained relatively constant.

Taxis in Huatulco

In Huatulco, the various cab colors signify different taxi companies. The names of these companies are prominently displayed on the front doors of each taxi. There are 19 distinct taxi companies within the municipality of Santa María Huatulco, with 16 servicing the tourist development (Bahías de Huatulco). The largest company, Sitio Santa Cruz, boasts a fleet of 74 taxis. Sitio in Spanish means “location” and precedes each taxi company’s name, signifying specific pick-up areas assigned to that company. For example, each of the all-inclusive resorts in Tangolunda has its own sitio or company. There are also sitios for the different bays and residential areas such as Entrega, Arrocito, Chahue and Conejos.

These taxi companies maintain strict control over their territories. While any taxi can drop off or pick up passengers anywhere, only taxis designated for a specific area can park at that location. This territorial protection is observable in popular spots like the shopping center Chedraui or the main square at La Crucecita.

Taxi Fares

Taxi fares in Huatulco are regulated by the state of Oaxaca. There are variations in fares in different municipalities of the state as a result of the government applying certain socio-economic factors (affordability). As of January 2024, the taxi fares have not changed since 2019. According to José Alfredo Cruz Acevedo, former president of Sitio Santa Cruz, there are no new fare changes scheduled.

The Economics of Taxis in Huatulco

Taxi companies in Huatulco operate as civil associations, the designation for non-profit organizations. These associations, owned jointly by the concession holders and the drivers, charge drivers a daily fee for dispatch and operational services. The profit in the taxi industry is thus derived from two sources: the concession owners and the drivers.

For taxi drivers in Huatulco, the economics vary. The table above shows the approximate monthly fixed costs – i.e., not including gas – for a driver who owns their own vehicle.

The fixed costs amount to $422 MXN per day. Adding one tank of gas per day at current rates would bring the total daily cost to approximately $1,322 MXN. This amount, before the taxi driver earns any income, is equivalent to the fare for 38 local trips (at $35 MXN each). Taxi drivers often work long hours to earn a living wage beyond the costs of running and maintaining a taxi.

The primary source of profit in the taxi industry appears to be the ownership of taxi concessions (the right to operate a taxi) and renting that right to taxi drivers. There is no public market for taxi concessions and they are rarely sold. The rumored price for a concession is in the hundreds of thousands of pesos. However, the value of a concession can be estimated using the approximate monthly amount paid by a taxi driver for a concession, about $4,500 MXN. Through a calculation resembling reverse engineering, e.g., when you figure out the present value of an annuity, the value of a 20-year taxi concession is roughly $500,000 MXN ($29,000 USD).

In conclusion, understanding the taxi industry’s importance to Huatulco involves recognizing that around 600 to 700 local families depend, at least in part, on this industry to meet their basic needs. Recognizing the challenges faced by taxi drivers in earning a living wage is essential for those of us who regularly use taxi services. A small tip on each taxi ride can be a meaningful contribution to support these hardworking taxistas.

For contact or comment, Email: box95jackson@gmail.com.