Tag Archives: October 2024

Copalita Eco-Archaeological Park Reopening

By Jane Bauer

When my mum, an avid birdwatcher, comes for a visit we always make sure to take a walk through the Copalita Eco-Archaeological Park. Sadly, for the last couple of years it has been closed due to damage to the main museum building from the earthquakes and most likely government bureaucracy. The park which is a stunning blend of nature and history, has recently reopened its doors, inviting visitors to explore its rich cultural heritage and lush landscapes. Nestled along the Pacific coast of Oaxaca, just south of Huatulco, the park showcases Zapotec ruins dating back over 3000 years, making it a vital site for understanding pre-hispanic civilization.

After a temporary closure, part of the park has reopened. The museum building which houses artefacts found in the area is still closed. However, an exhibition of nature photography on display around the welcome center is interesting and worth seeing. The park offers an immersive experience, where visitors can wander through archaeological remains, including ceremonial platforms and intricate stone carvings. The trails wind through tropical forests, leading to panoramic views of the Copalita River and the ocean, making it a perfect destination for nature lovers and history enthusiasts alike. The park is a haven for biodiversity. Bird watchers will be delighted by the numerous species that call this area home. You can also spot iguanas, deer, and a variety of plant species.

One of the park’s highlights is the lookout point that offers breathtaking views of Bocana, where the Copalita River meets the Pacific Ocean. This strategic location is believed to have served as an observation post for ancient civilizations, allowing them to monitor coastal activities. The park also emphasizes sustainability and conservation.

The Copalita Eco-Archaeological Park stands as a testament to the rich tapestry of Oaxaca’s past and its commitment to a sustainable future. With its reopening, it invites everyone to experience the beauty of its landscapes and the depth of its history, offering a unique glimpse into the cultural legacy of the region.

Visitor Information
Opening Hours: Daily, 8:00 AM – 4:00 PM

Admission Costs: Adults: $50 MXN; Children (under 12): Free; Discounts for students and seniors.

Location: Between Bocana and Copalita

How to Get There: Accessible by car, bus, taxi, scooter, walkable from Secrets hotel or Bocana. This is a wonderful opportunity to explore Oaxaca’s natural beauty and rich history!

From Book to Movie: The Best of Both Worlds

By Carole Reedy

We often hear it said that a movie was good, but the book was better, the film version seldom exceeding or even equaling a book’s impact on us. Here I propose a few exceptions to the rule. Each of the books below depicts life in Mexico; each was written by an established literary author and has been carefully crafted into an entertaining movie that also illuminates the author’s original purpose.

Prayers for the Stolen, by Jennifer Clement (2020)
Film: Prayers for the Stolen (2021, written and directed by Tatiana Huezo)

Jennifer Clement is a name every reader of Mexican literature should know. Former President of PEN Mexico, as well as the first and only woman President of PEN International, Clement continues to investigate and dissect the culture, problems, history, and joys of this land, one of the most culturally diverse and mysterious, and yet friendliest, countries in the world.

At the same time, Clement is a woman of the world who has experienced life on both sides of the border. Clement’s themes are diverse, perhaps due to the adventurous and culturally rich life she leads. Her books are always recommended in this column, and she is a highly regarded citizen of CDMX.

Clement’s newest book, The Promised Party: Kahlo, Basquiat, and Me, is hot off the press (May 2024). It is her own story of her rebellious childhood (the only girl to get booted out of Girl Guides!) in Mexico City to her New York adventures with famous artists. Her antics take you to all the nooks and crannies of Mexico City and New York: a wonderful guide and history of these two preeminent cities wrapped up in a cleverly crafted memoir.

Prayers for the Stolen takes us from the remote hills of the state of Guerrero to the ritzy coast of Acapulco and ends in the magical megalopolis of Mexico City. It’s about a life lived under the shadow of the narcotraficantes that dominate and ruin the future of women they kidnap even if the girls are lucky enough to escape.

Clement’s depiction of and empathy with the seemingly hopeless situation are genuine. She has visited these women in Mexico City’s worst prison to hear the stories of the narco presence in their communities: the fear if they stay or the equally dangerous prospect of running away, sometimes only to an equal or even worse fate. Clement’s style is reminiscent of that of Truman Capote or Tom Wolfe, pioneers of a “new journalism” in which the author writes from the inside out instead of viewing the subject from afar. Her Widow Basquiat: A Love Affair (the 2014 “prequel” to The Promised Party) is a fine example of this.

The movie version of Prayers for The Stolen (Noche del Fuego) can be seen on Netflix. It has received more than 20 international awards: Cannes Film Festival, Un Certain Regard, Honorific Mention; Best Director, Best Picture, Athens Film Festival; Best director, Stockholm International; Best Mexican Feature, Guanajuato Film Festival.

Battles in the Desert, by José Emilio Pacheco (1981)
Film: Mariana, Mariana (1987, written by Pacheco and Vicente Leñero, directed by Alberto Isaac)

Among my favorite Mexican stories is this novella written 43 years ago by one of the nation’s most treasured writers. The book is to Mexican culture what J.D. Salinger’s Catcher in the Rye (1951) or Harper Lee’s To Kill A Mockingbird (1960) is to American life. New York Times book critic Molly Young perhaps said it best: “How can such a tiny novella contain so many lessons on perception?”

The novel is set in 1948 in the now trendy Mexico City neighborhood of La Roma, Pacheco’s childhood home. Through the eyes of a young boy named Carlos, we experience a changing city, moving from the traditional values of his family to a global modernization of the culture and world around him.

The award-winning movie version, Mariana, Mariana, was filmed in part in La Roma. A commenter on MUBI, a site that specializes in art films, noted that “Literary films are difficult, but Isaac nails this one, and doesn’t hesitate to add some extra flourishes: Freudian psychotherapy…; the growth of the city and the demolition of the old Roma Norte; the 1985 earthquake; gringo invasion; the senescence of the Revolutionary state and its descent into dirty politics, embezzlement, and inequity.” Mariana, Mariana is available for viewing on Amazon Prime.

Like Water for Chocolate, by Laura Esquivel (1989)
Film: Like Water for Chocolate (1992, written by Esquivel, directed by Alfonso Arau)

This is one title that probably came to fame first as a movie and afterwards as a popular novel, despite the book’s being published a couple of years before the film was made. The film proved to be a box office hit. Years ago, I was advised by my favorite Spanish teacher that my spoken Spanish would never improve without writing and reading. One of the first novels she assigned me to read in Spanish was Like Water for Chocolate.

Most dominant and significant in the learning process was my introduction to the subjective (not a tense, but a mood) in Spanish. Shadows of the book still cloud my mind when reading or speaking the subjunctive. I also recommend Leonora by Elena Poniatowska (2015) as a good tool for Spanish students. This novelization of the fascinating life of Leonara Carrington is unequaled and will compel you to master the Spanish.

The book and movie style of Like Water for Chocolate is magical realism in a nation at the beginning of the 20th century, a time of turmoil. Tradition and the family figure predominately, as does the Mexican Revolution.

The movie earned ten awards at Mexico’s Oscars, the Ariel Awards, including Best Picture, and a Golden Globe Award for Best Foreign Language Film. Like Water for Chocolate was the highest-grossing foreign language film shown in the U.S. up to that time. It remains at #10.

The Old Gringo, by Carlos Fuentes (1985)
Film: Old Gringo (1989, written by Aida Bortnik and Luis Puenzo, directed by Puenzo)

Carlos Fuentes is undoubtedly one of the most influential and universally respected authors in Mexican literature. In his obituary, the New York Times described Fuentes as “one of the most admired writers in the Spanish-speaking world” and an important influence on the “Latin American Boom,” the “explosion of Latin American literature in the 1960s and ’70s.” Fuentes was often regarded as a likely candidate for the Nobel Prize for Literature, but sadly, as with Javier Marías and Philip Roth, an untimely death intervened.

The Old Gringo was more successful as a novel than the film, which starred Gregory Peck, Jane Fonda, and Jimmy Smits. Fuentes has said, “What started this novel was my admiration for [American journalist Ambrose Bierce] and for his Tales of Soldiers and Civilians [orig. pub. 1892]. I was fascinated with the idea of a man who fought in the United States Civil War and dies in a Mexican civil war.”

And that is exactly what Fuentes gives us in this exciting historical and tragic chapter in Mexican history.

Pedro Páramo, by Juan Rulfo (1955)
Film: Pedro Páramo (1967, written by Rulfo, Carlos Fuentes, and Manuel Barbachano Ponce; directed by Carlos Velo.

Pedro Páramo is THE classic novel of Mexican literature; remarkably, it was Rulfo’s first novel.

“I came to Comala because I was told that my father, a certain Pedro Páramo, lived here. My mother told me this. And I promised her that I would come to see him as soon as she died.” Every Mexican knows these opening sentences of the novel.

Writers like Jorge Luis Borges, Gabriel García Márquez, and Susan Sontag cite Pedro Páramo as one of the most significant works of literature of all time. A survey of writers and students worldwide by the Nobel Prize Institute of Sweden included it as one of the 100 works that constitute the core of the universal heritage of literature.

Gabriel García Márquez claimed he could recite the entire book cover to cover, demonstrating the importance of this short novel in his own writing.

The story appears to be straightforward: a man returning to a once-thriving city that now appears to be ghost town, along with the people who inhabit it. But it is Rulfo’s nonlinear style and form that capture the essence of the tale. You may find yourself confused – which characters are dead, which alive? Time shifts, as does the flow of memory, as we are absorbed into the world of Pedro Páramo.

Ironically, the book sold very few copies when published, and fame came only later. You can view the film on Netflix; to this day, it receives excellent reviews, though most viewers suggest you read the book first. A new version of the film has been produced by Netflix; written by Mateo Gil and directed by Rodrigo Prieto, it premiered at the Toronto International Film Festival in September. It will be released on Netflix later this year.

Hurricane Season, by Fernanda Melchor (2017)
Film: Hurricane Season (2023, written by Melchor, Daniela Gómez, and Elisa Miller; directed by Elisa Miller)

The death of a witch is a hell of a way to begin a novel. But Fernanda Melchor knows just where she’s going with a story that takes place in a small village in coastal Veracruz.

Written in a Faulkneresque style (Melchor abhors periods) with a touch of Chilean author Roberto Bolaño, the novel recounts in a “linguistic torrent” and hypnotic rhythm the story of how and why the witch lived and died in a desperately poor little Mexican town. Most reviews recognize Melchor’s command of the language in her use of rough language to describe violence and depravity and her ability to express pain and despair. Equal praise has been showered on her English translator, Sophie Hughes.

The story is told by four “unreliable narrators,” that is, people who have only a partial, often distorted, view of what’s going on as local citizens attempt to determine who killed the witch and how to handle the extreme evil lurking everywhere.

To give you an example of the popularity of this novel, I am currently on a 20-week waitlist for the English translation. You can view the equally regarded film on Netflix.

“One glance at a book and you hear the voice of another person, perhaps someone dead for 1,000 years. To read is to voyage through time.” – Carl Sagan

Exploring the film ¡Que viva México!

By Julie Etra

When I stumbled upon this film, directed by the Russian filmmaker Sergei Eisenstein in the early 1930s and never completed, I was immediately engaged. Finally released in its unfinished form in 1978, it takes place in four geographic regions of Mexico not long after the Mexican Revolution, during the height of the Mexican muralists, and just prior to the golden age of Mexican cinema. It is narrated in Russian, with subtitles in English, by co-Director Grigory Alexandrov. During this epoch many intellectuals and artists associated with the European avant-garde movement were fascinated by Latin American culture, particularly Mexico, which they considered the embodiment of Surrealism.

The history of its conception, development, production, and resurrection is as interesting as the film. In 1929, a group of Soviet filmmakers headed by Eisenstein were invited to Hollywood to learn modern techniques of sound cinema and to produce a movie for Paramount Pictures. Eisenstein was well known and respected from his previous works, most famously Battleship Potemkin. Unable to reach an agreement with the Hollywood moguls, the American socialist and author Upton Sinclair and other well-connected intellectuals and artists in the United States, including the Mexican artists Diego Rivera, David Alfaro Siqueiros, and José Clemente Orozco, suggested locating to Mexico. They envisioned an episodic portrayal of Mexican culture and politics from pre-Conquest civilization to the Mexican Revolution. In preparation for the six months of filming, the filmmakers spent two months of often arduous travel led by Rivera, Siqueiros, and Orozco, experiencing landscapes that would otherwise have been out of reach or not considered. Following production the film was returned to Hollywood where it languished until 1955 when Upton Sinclair donated the negative to the collection of the Museum of Modern Art in New York.

The film starts with a Prologue that attempts to connect pre-Hispanic Mexico with the then contemporary version. Stark images and profiles of men and women mirroring the gods and sculptures of the great temples, imply the persistence of the indigenous culture, soul, and physical appearance despite the conquest, with death an ever-present theme.

The first vignette, Sandunga, takes place in the Isthmus of Tehuantepec, the area famous for its winds and the modern wind farm La Ventosa. The vignette opens with a bucolic, idyllic, and romanticized landscape, with the coconut palm trees swaying in the breeze. The story revolves around a young woman named Concepción who yearns for gold jewelry in the form of coins, joined in a necklace, as a symbol of status and coming of age. The plot, as it were, leads up to her wedding. Footage includes various scenes of women working in the markets, the fields, and over comals; for the most part men are absent, at least for the work, although all the musicians in the wedding party are men. The party scenes are rich with cultural details such as toddlers and baby goats under the feet of the partying dancers. It culminates with the wedding. It ends with the following subtitle ‘That’s how the unhurried semi-vegetable life goes on in this tropical part of Mexico’, with the palm fronds bending in the wind, the husband in the hammock, and Concepción handing him the baby boy. La Sandunga or Zandunga is a Mexican waltz and the regional anthem of the Isthmus of Tehuantepec. This song is covered by numerous vocalists; my favorite version is by Lila Downs.

The second vignette shows the splendid Festival of the Virgin of Guadalupe. Catholic Church luminaries oversee the reenactment of the Passion of Christ and the procession of the penitents crawling up the stairs to the church, which was most likely built on a pyramid, and lots of depictions of death. The festival continues with pre-Hispanic costumes including masks and feathers, with music and dancing that lasted unabated for 24 hours, highlighting pre-conquest culture. There are zero women in this footage. It ends with a weird transition to a bullfight featuring the famous bullfighter David Liceaga. The questionable connection to the festival is the bullfighters’ prayers to the Virgin prior to the spectacle of the bullfight. As part of this same vignette, we then see couples and families enjoying the trajineras of Xochimilco, the flat-bottomed boats that traverse the shallow water of the former lake, featuring Liceaga accompanied with women serenading and fawning over him.

Most troubling, to me, is the third vignette which takes place prior to the Revolution and during the Dictatorship of Porfirio Diaz on a large hacienda in the state of Hidalgo, it depicts the stark disparity between the ruling class and the working peons (agrarian reform was central to the Revolution). It takes place on a Maguey (Agave) plantation, Tetlapayac, where the milky liquid pulque is extracted from the plant and then fermented to produce pulque.

It is hard, endless work for the pulqueros. Maria, betrothed to pulquero Sebastian, is raped by a drunk guest at the hacienda during a welcoming party for the returning daughter of the patron, and as Sebastian tries to escort her, he is roughed up and kicked out while she is locked up, with a guard at the door. Sebastian, with his coconspirators, attempts to free Maria. On foot and armed with stolen weapons, they are hunted down by an armed and well-mounted posse into the rough landscape. During the commotion the daughter of the patron is fatally shot. Sebastian and his two friends meet a tortured, bloody end while the surviving coconspirator watches and Maria is freed only to discover her dead fiancé. The filming, by cinematographer Eduard Tisse, the juxtapositions, shadows and contrasts, are exquisite.

In the Epilogue, Alexandrov explains that the last novella, Soldadera (soldier), about the Revolution, was never completed as the filmmakers ran out of money and returned home. The Soldaderas were the wives of the soldiers; they accompanied the army and supported the men in various capacities.

It ends with Day of the Dead celebrations, at first in the cemetery, with death everywhere, symbolized by an abundance of skulls, a recurring theme that connects the vignettes. ‘The day begins with laments for the dead’ and continues with feasting at the cemetery. The last scene is a bustling carnival with dancers and performers in death masks dancing the Mexican Hat Dance, surrounded by their masked audience. When the audience removes their masks, we see the faces of Mexico: children.

5 things: Polanco CDMX

By Sophia Canavati

Polanco, a dynamic neighborhood in Mexico City, offers a unique blend of luxurious accommodations, culinary delights, and cultural attractions. Whether you’re seeking a cozy retreat or an adventure through local flavors and history, Polanco has something for everyone. Here are five must-know highlights for your stay in this exciting area.

Stay:
Orchid House:
A charming boutique hotel that blends the warmth of home with the sophistication of high-end hospitality. Each room is thoughtfully designed, creating an intimate environment that feels both relaxing and luxurious, making it a perfect base for exploring the neighborhood of Polanco.
http://www.orchidhousehotels.com

Visit:
Chapultepec Castle
Perched atop a hill in Chapultepec Park, this castle offers a glimpse into Mexico’s history and stunning panoramic views. Once a royal residence, the castle now houses a museum filled with artifacts and artwork. Explore its lush gardens and opulent interiors for a memorable outing that combines culture, history, and breathtaking scenery.

Jumex Museum
Contemporary art space that showcases an impressive collection of modern works, making it a vital part of Mexico City’s cultural landscape. With rotating exhibitions featuring both local and international artists, this museum offers an engaging environment for art lovers. Its sleek architecture and commitment to promoting innovative art make it a compelling destination for those looking to explore the cutting edge of the art world.

Eat
La Docena:
An oyster bar and grill that puts the spotlight on fresh, high-quality ingredients. This eatery showcases the best of Mexico’s seafood and employs refined techniques to enhance the natural flavors of each dish. Diners can indulge in a variety of oysters, ceviches, and grilled specialties, all presented with a touch of elegance that celebrates the culinary heritage of the region.

El Turix:
For a more traditional taqueria experience, this is the local go-to spot for authentic cochinita pibil and tamales. Each bite of their succulent cochinita, wrapped in soft tortillas, transports you to the heart of Yucatecan cuisine, making it a must-visit for taco enthusiasts.

 

Editor’s Letter

By Jane Bauer

“What’s the point of being an Australian guy traveling through India if you are going to go to India to meet other Australians?”
Alfonso Cuaron

My first experience with movies in Mexico was when the traveling movie caravan came to Mazunte while I was living there in 1997. They set up a tent in the field by the elementary school and showed a double feature of an old Mexican black and white film and Die Hard. Everyone in the village came out since most people didn’t have electricity, let alone televisions. The chance to watch something was a novelty.

When the first theater in Huatulco opened at Plaza Madero in the early 2000s it felt like we were being vaulted into modern times. I love movies so much that when I was pregnant I would make the two-hour drive from Puerto Angel to Huatulco to rent videos- not DVDs- because the selection was better than what was available in Pochutla.

While many people love to immerse themselves in Mexican culture through tacos and tequila, film is often overlooked because of the language barrier. But I believe film is a wonderful way to begin to understand the nuances and attitudes of a culture.

In this issue our writers explore Mexican cinema and there are enough amazing films mentioned to keep you busy but I can’t resist recommending a few more.

La Caida (Dive) 2022
Beautiful cinematography contrasts the precision of profesional diving with the subtleties of grooming by a seasoned abuser. Inspired by the true story of the sexual and mental abuse allegations on the Mexican diving team. Karla Souza, the Mexican actress who plays the lead, trained for three years to portray the Olympic diver.

Güeros (Gueros) 2014
Filmed in black and white, the cinematography captures the wildness, chaos and freedom of youth in the 90s. I was hooked from the opening scene. Two brothers go searching for folk-rocker Epigmenio Cruz on the streets of Mexico City during the student strikes of 1999.

La gran seducción (The Great Seduction) 2023
This fun movie is about a big city doctor sent to a small fishing village that has suffered economic hardship. The residents think that if the doctor decides to stay it will improve their circumstances and set about to woo him. This is a remake of a Canadian film that was first made in 2003 and then again in 2013.

See you in November,

Jane

The true story behind Nacho Libre

By Frances López

The movie Nacho Libre is inspired by the true story of Fray Tormenta, a Mexican priest who wrestled in disguise to support his orphanage. Fray Tormenta, born Sergio Gutiérrez Benítez, fought in the ring for over 23 years, raising funds for the children in his care. While the movie adds fictionalized elements, the core message of dedication and creativity to help others remains based on his incredible journey.

Sergio’s life began in Mexico City, where he struggled with addiction. After witnessing the tragic death of a friend, he vowed to change his life and serve others. He joined the Order of the Piarists and, after years of study in Rome and Spain, returned to Mexico as a secular priest. He founded an orphanage in Texcoco, a town in the State of Mexico, but funding the operation was difficult. Inspired by a film about a priest who becomes a wrestler, Sergio made the unconventional decision to step into the ring himself, adopting the persona of Fray Tormenta.

Wearing a mask to protect his identity as a priest, Fray Tormenta became a popular figure in lucha libre. Over the years, his wrestling career became a vital source of funding for the orphanage. He referred to the children as his “cachorros” (cubs), many of whom went on to successful careers, including doctors, lawyers, and even wrestlers like the famous Místico.

In 2006, Nacho Libre brought this story to a global audience. Starring Jack Black as a Mexican monk, son of a missionary from Scandinavia and a Mexican deacon, who becomes a wrestler to support orphans, the film captures the spirit of Fray Tormenta’s mission, even though it plays up the humor and fictionalizes many aspects. At its core, the movie is about a man who would do anything to provide for those in need, a theme that resonates with Fray Tormenta’s life story.

The film’s unique visual style, directed by Jared Hess, adds a quirky, artistic touch. Known for his work on Napoleon Dynamite, Hess used a distinctive aesthetic with symmetrical shots, muted yet bright colors, and whimsical elements that set Nacho Libre apart.

Much of the movie was filmed in Oaxaca, Mexico, stunning landscapes and historical landmarks give the film an authentic and charming backdrop. Oaxaca itself became a crucial part of the film’s atmosphere. Key locations include the Santuario Las Peñitas, known as “The Nacho Libre Church,” perched on a hill in Reyes, Etla, offering breathtaking views of the surrounding area. Other scenes were filmed at the ancient ruins of Monte Albán, featured in the movie’s climactic final match. The bustling Mercado Municipal de Villa de Etla also appears in several scenes, adding to the film’s local feel.

For fans, exploring these locations in Oaxaca offers a chance to relive iconic moments from the film. Places like Calle de Nacho, where Nacho’s sidekick ‘Esqueleto’ steals chips, remain intact and full of the quirky charm that makes the movie memorable. While some places, like Señor Ramón’s house, no longer exist, most of the spots featured in the film continue to capture the spirit of the region.
Nacho Libre stands out for its blend of heartfelt storytelling, humor, and a stunning visual style. While the movie is a fictional comedy, the real-life inspiration of Fray Tormenta adds depth to its narrative. His journey of resilience and creativity continues to inspire, both through his personal story and the lasting impact of the movie. The film celebrates the power of doing whatever it takes to help those in need, all while highlighting the beauty and culture of Oaxaca, making it a truly unique cinematic experience.

Fray Tormenta is currently 79 years old and has opened a car wash in Texcoco.

Mexican Films Streaming on your TV

By Marcia Chaiken and Jan Chaiken

Those of us who love Mexican cinema but spend months away from Mexico have an excellent source for fulfilling our yen for Mexican film – namely, Netflix. The films available for streaming on Netflix come and go, and differ from country to country, but there are always ample choices. For primarily English speakers the subtitles available on Netflix offer an easier experience than seeing the movie in Mexico.

Some of the best known films that have won worldwide acclaim are 100% Mexican, including geographical location, direction, casting, Spanish language, and especially creative imagination. An excellent relatively recent example is the 2018 dramatic film Roma, directed by Alfonso Cuarón. Winning many international awards, Roma accurately depicts a well-known neighborhood of Mexico City in the 1970s.

Other Netflix films that we consider Mexican have Mexican directors who are internationally acclaimed but take place only partially in Mexico. One such film is the 2006 psychological thriller Babel, directed by Alejandro Gonzáles Iñarritu. In addition to Spanish, Babel includes seven other spoken languages, plus Japanese sign language. Two top-notch films, Pan’s Labyrinth (2006) and The Shape of Water (2017), can only be considered Mexican by virtue of their director, Guillermo del Toro. Del Toro’s films are literally fantastic, compelling, and so rooted in an imagination shaped by his childhood in Guadalajara that we would call them Mexican even though some might argue with that classification. On the other hand, the film Gravity (2013), although also directed by Alfonso Cuarón, seems more American than Mexican.

But enough about the blockbusters. The films that we have been most enjoying on Netflix are little, low-budget glimpses into solidly Mexican characters in recognizably Mexican locations. We both liked the 2023 film Familia, directed by Rodrigo García. Filmed in the Valle de Guadalupe in Ensenada, the action takes place in a single day in the home and olive grove of the patriarch of a three-generation dispersed family. We learn that the family gets together once a month for comida, but at this gathering everyone’s life is so suddenly changing that difficult decisions must be made. The characters are complex and charming, even when they become irritated with each other. Gradually, by listening to their conversations around the table, you realize the depth and substance of each family member and their relationships. By the end of the film, as most characters leave, you know you’re going to miss them.

Marcia liked Where the Tracks End (El Ultimo Vagon, 2023, directed by Ernesto Contreras), while Jan thought it was a snooze. The film predominantly takes place in an abandoned railroad car, fitted out as a schoolhouse. It is slow-moving but charmingly develops the relationship between a child of an itinerant railroad track layer and a teacher whose whole life is dedicated to educating some of the most impoverished children in Mexico. There are both tragic and comic moments, and the film unabashedly pulls at your heart strings. The ending provides a satisfying twist.

The film Tell Me When (Dime Cuando Tú, 2020, directed by Gerardo Gatica González) is a light, feel-good movie about a young man living in Los Angeles. His grandfather leaves him a list of experiences that the grandson is urged to complete in Mexico City. Most of the film takes place in iconic areas in CDMX and focuses on his determination to complete the list, including the last item (spoiler alert!) falling in love. But don’t expect a Hollywood ending: it’s a Mexican film after all.

There are plenty of Mexican films on Netflix to keep us happily watching for many years, but confining ourselves to Netflix would mean missing other Mexican treasures that are available on other streaming apps. Most notable are two films directed by John Huston. We first saw one of them in a cultural center in San Cristobal de las Casas, Chiapas– The Treasure of the Sierra Madre (1948, starring Humphrey Bogart). The second is The Night of the Iguana (1964, starring Richard Burton and Eva Gardner) which in Tennessee Williams’ version takes place in Acapulco but was actually filmed in Mismaloya near Puerto Vallarta (less well known at the time). But also definitely not to be missed is an early Cuarón international blockbuster Y Tu Mamá Tambien (2001). Y Tu is superficially about a road trip from Mexico City to coastal Oaxaca but also is a turn-of-this-century exploration of the concept that gender is not binary.

If you enjoy films as we do and enjoy a bit of Mexico when you’re away, just stream one of the movies we mentioned. Happy watching.

 

Chapulín Tournament

By Jane Bauer

For the second year in a row, Jose Luis Bohorquez and his family hosted a Chapulín Tournament. The festivities started at 7 am on September, 22 at his ranch just south of Copalita where he has fields planted to attract chapulínes. It was a busy event. Participants had three hours to collect as many jumping creatures as they could. Many families wandered through the fields with bags for collecting the bugs.

Under a magnificent tree, there was food on the grill and sopes on the comal. Horse rides were available and live music played. In the evening the festivities moved to the cancha in Copalita with a calenda and more delicious offerings from local cooks.

Still not sure what I’m talking about? Chapulínes, or grasshoppers, are a popular snack in many regions of Mexico, especially Oaxaca. These edible insects have been enjoyed for centuries, valued for their rich source of protein, vitamins, and minerals. Typically, they are toasted with lime juice, garlic, and salt, and often seasoned with chile powder for a flavorful kick. Chapulínes are commonly eaten as a street food or as a crunchy topping for tacos, salsas, and guacamole. Their earthy, slightly tangy taste makes them a beloved delicacy, connecting Mexico’s culinary traditions with sustainability and the use of native ingredients in modern dishes.

The practice of harvesting chapulínes dates back to pre-Hispanic times in Mexico, where indigenous groups like the Zapotec and Mixtec considered these insects an essential part of their diet. Chapulínes were abundant in the fields during the rainy season, making them a reliable, sustainable protein source. Traditionally, they were collected by hand, often early in the morning when the grasshoppers were less active. After harvesting, they were toasted on clay comals and seasoned with local spices. This ancient tradition continues today, passed down through generations, reflecting the deep connection between the region’s agricultural practices and its culinary heritage.

As more and more people shop corporate it is encouraging that the Bohorquez family is highlighting the beauty of this tradition. Another great reason to be here in September!

 

From Fields to Films: How Popcorn Became a Global Movie Theater Staple

By Kary Vannice

What is more synonymous with cinema than popcorn? For most, the mere smell of popcorn conjures up images of dimming lights, hushed theaters, and the blissful escape of uninterrupted entertainment. But how did popcorn become so ubiquitous in movie theaters around the world?

Corn itself was discovered as a wild grass in southern Mexico around 10,000 years ago. Once domesticated, it quickly became the core of the Mexican diet for foods like tortillas, tamales, and the corn-based drink atole, but the origins of popcorn are still up for debate.

Popcorn – from Its Origins to the Theater

Some historians claim that popcorn originated in Peru, where it is known that the Aztecs used it as offerings to their gods, believing the popping sound represented the spirits of their ancestors being released. It was also used to decorate clothing and headdresses in that region. Others argue that the oldest evidence of popped corn is from modern-day New Mexico (which was part of Mexico at the time), where 5,600-year-old intact ears of popcorn were found.

The journals of early French explorers in the 1600s document being introduced to popcorn by the Iroquois people in the Great Lakes region of the United States and Canada. Colonial families soon adopted popcorn into their diets, eating it for breakfast with milk and sugar—making popcorn not only a modern-day cinema snack but also one of the original breakfast cereals!

By the 1800s, popcorn had become a popular holiday decoration due to its low cost and festive shape. One of the first commercial popcorn ventures was Cracker Jack in the 1870s. By the 1900s, popcorn was being popped in many American homes and was a favorite snack at festivals, fairs, and sporting events. But it wasn’t something you could munch in a movie theater until the Great Depression. During Hollywood’s Golden Age of Cinema, kicked off by the “talkies” in the 1920s, theater owners felt that popcorn was too lowbrow for the refined movie-going experience, and they refused to sell it in cinemas. However, after the financial crash, when fewer people were attending movies, theater operators discovered that selling popcorn helped keep their doors open due to its accessibility and affordability.

Upscaling Popcorn

Popcorn has remained a mainstay in movie theaters since the 1930s. Buckets of buttery popcorn are still available around the world today, but in some regions, this humble kernel has been elevated to culinary heights that reflect local tastes and traditions.

Standard popcorn selections in most theaters now include cheddar cheese, caramel, or sweet kettle corn. In Mexico, you can also get popcorn mixed with other snacks like Cheetos, Doritos, and Takis, adding a spicy, crunchy twist to the classic snack.

In Japan, you’ll find popcorn in flavors like honey, milk tea, curry, and corn potage, reflecting the country’s penchant for sweet and savory blends. Indian theaters offer more exotic options, such as miso soup, Za’atar, Thai red coconut, and anchovy garlic popcorn, infusing global spices into every bite. In the Caribbean, coconut lime popcorn, made with coconut oil, lime zest, and salt, offers a refreshing tropical flavor. Ethiopia’s Berbere popcorn is a spicy, aromatic delight made with a traditional Ethiopian spice blend that includes chili peppers, paprika, and ginger. The Philippines adds a punch with barbeque or wasabi powder, while European theaters take it to another level with gourmet additions like truffles and grated Parmesan.

Whether you’re a popcorn purist—”straight butter, please”—or someone who enjoys elevating your popcorn experience with unique flavors, popcorn and movies have become so intertwined that even in the age of streaming, popping a bowl of popcorn can instantly transform a regular night into a full-fledged “movie night” experience.

Popcorn’s evolution from an ancient snack to a global cinema staple is a testament to its adaptability and universal appeal. From sacred offerings and breakfast bowls to buckets at the movies, popcorn has grown into a timeless part of the movie experience. It’s more than just a snack; it’s a piece of cinema history—a symbol of enjoyment, nostalgia, and shared moments that connect us all, one kernel at a time.