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Sensory Sensitivity Meets Cultural Reality in Mexico

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By Kary Vannice

For the sensory sensitive traveler, Mexico can be a challenge. If you’re planning to visit, or stay for a while, no doubt you’re already anticipating the delicious spicy food, warm hospitality, and the vibrant colorful culture that Mexico is known for. But there are some very real sensory and cultural differences that some foreigners aren’t prepared for until they come face to face with them. Being unprepared can turn something delightful into something disorienting or even disturbing, depending on your level of preparation and understanding. The key to truly enjoying Mexican culture isn’t to try to change it to suit your comfort zone—but to shift your expectations and adapt to your surroundings.

Even if you don’t identify as particularly sensory sensitive, Mexico may still throw you a few cultural curveballs, so knowing how to deal with them gracefully and respectfully in advance can mean you get to have a good time and you don’t have to ask Mexico not to be Mexico.

It won’t take long before you realize that most of Mexico is loud (at least by foreign standards). Whether it’s music blasting from a nearby store or café, fireworks before sunrise for a saint’s day celebration, or street vendors shouting their daily offerings through a loudspeaker—Mexico is a full-on auditory experience.

Celebration is a part of everyday life in Mexico. Music, fireworks, parades, and community gatherings often involve sound levels that would be considered noise violations in other countries. Most Mexicans aren’t conditioned to need silence to relax, so there are no “quiet hours.” These sounds aren’t disturbances—they’re expressions of joy. It’s Mexicans living their best life, and when foreigners insist on lowering the volume or making complaints, they are asking the locals to lessen their enjoyment of life.

But there are ways to cope. First, pay attention to daily rhythms—afternoon siesta often brings a lull and can be a great time to rest. If you see a party, join in instead of resisting. Mexicans are some of the most welcoming people on the planet and live by the ethos: the more the merrier. If you’re sensitive to sound, invest in quality earplugs or noise-canceling headphones. And most important, accept that the noise isn’t a cultural flaw—it’s a feature.

Another sensory difference that might catch you off guard is personal space—or the lack of it. In many Mexican communities, people naturally stand closer together, touch more often, and greet others with a hug or kiss on the cheek, even if you’ve only just met. For someone from another culture, this can feel like an invasion of space.

The local culture places high value on connection and warmth. Touch is seen as a sign of respect and caring, not a threat to autonomy or an invasion of space. Physical closeness indicates trust. But, if you don’t feel comfortable touching or even standing close to people you don’t know, Mexico can be a challenge.

It’s important to keep in mind that their perception of personal space is different from yours, so they genuinely won’t understand your discomfort. Relax your body when your personal space is invaded and set gentle boundaries after you build rapport but do it with humor and kindness. Mexicans love to joke around and are quick to laugh if you keep things light. It can also help to simply observe the locals as they move in and around each other. You’ll soon see that they are as warm with strangers as they are with family. You’ll likely learn to appreciate the beauty and tenderness of these simple gestures.

Time might not have a sensory quality, but for many of us, punctuality is a deeply ingrained expectation. And in Mexico, this will likely present a greater challenge than either noise or touch. Time here is flexible, fluid … and often late.

You may arrive at a dinner party “on time” and find you’re the only person there for the first hour. A plumber who promised to arrive “a las diez” might show up at noon. In Mexico, time is more suggestion than commandment.

This isn’t about disrespect. It’s simply that Mexican culture prioritizes relationships over rigid scheduling. Things unfold when they unfold. Trying to force your sense of urgency onto that rhythm rarely works, and often backfires. Taking it personally is pointless. Complaining about it won’t change deeply embedded cultural beliefs and ways of being. Complaining about lateness or feeling personally offended will only hurt you, because from a cultural perspective, no offense has occurred.

The best solution? Build in “buffer” time. Don’t schedule back-to-back commitments counting on things to run on time. Use this time to your advantage by always carrying a book, podcast or magazine with you. It’s a chance to loosen your grip on control and start living a little more in the moment, like the locals do.

If on your travels you find yourself wishing things were quieter, more spacious, or more “efficient” … pause. Take a minute to recognize that the discomfort you’re feeling isn’t a sign that something is wrong with Mexico. It’s a sign that your cultural expectations are being stretched.

Take a breath and remind yourself: this is the whole point of travel…growth, expansion, and understanding.

The most meaningful experiences come not from controlling your environment, but from surrendering to it. From witnessing a culture on its own terms, not yours. From expanding your comfort zone, not policing everyone else’s.

Allow the experience with openness, curiosity, humility, and a willingness to be changed.

Because if you let it, Mexico will not only surprise you; it will transform you.

Huatulco

The Art of Belonging: How to Live Like a Local in Mexico City

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By Carole Reedy

Famed author Maya Angelou once said: “I long, as does every human being, to be at home wherever I find myself.”

Wherever we are, most of us yearn for connections, familiarity, and comfort. You can find these feelings even while traveling … if you are armed with knowledge and savvy.

Here are some tips to assist you on your journey in one of the grandest cities of the world. If you have the luxury, allow yourself time to wander, absorb the culture, history, way of life, and routines of the locals.

Before the more practical recommendations, let’s reflect on a philosophical perspective. Despite the hustle bustle of the city, take time to roam (or as my friends and I say “flaneur”) through the neighborhoods (called colonias) that sprinkle the Valley of Mexico. Don’t pack too much in a day, as traveling around the big city takes time and energy, too.

Enjoy the unexpected and unanticipated joys of the moment. Look up and around … at the trees, sky, and skyscrapers. There are surprises around every corner. If you are fortunate enough to come in March, the jacarandas will be in full bloom.

Be open to the people on the street and metro or while shopping. Unlike the French, Mexicans will welcome you even though your Spanish may be not quite correct, or even if it’s nonexistent.

If you are like other visitors to this bewitching city, your memories will remain vivid long after you depart. Here are some practical ways to make your sojourn uncomplicated and rich.

Greetings!

First impressions are said to be the most important, and none is more so than the first words out of your mouth when greeting someone on the street, entering a room or a store, or addressing a waiter.

Friends visiting Mexico City (Ciudad de Mexico) are often surprised at how, in this heavily populated city, people take the time to greet one another. Americans in particular have a tendency to always appear to be in a rush, speaking rapidly and without the formality of a greeting.

The first words out of your mouth when entering a room, a meeting, or store, or simply on the street, should be buenos días (good morning), buenas tardes (good afternoon), or buenas noches (good evening or night). Another useful phrase is just buen día, short for que buen día (literally, may it be a good day – Spanish loves the subjunctive).

A smile goes a long way and is always appreciated. Mexicans always take time for a formal greeting before the chatter begins!

Time and pace

No hay prisa is a good motto to practice during your visit, be it for a week or a year. Literally the phrase means “there is no hurry.” Although some actions and attitudes may be interpreted as “slow and lazy” by some foreign cultural standards, Mexicans are deliberate and formal in their manners, which is actually considerably more sane than the frenzied manners of many foreigners.

Mexicans are patient. Often you will see lines of people waiting for a service. No one is yelling or complaining. People just wait and chat, somehow knowing that stress, and therefore raising their blood pressure, doesn’t do anyone any good or make the line move any faster.

“Why is everyone always late?” They aren’t. The concept of time is different south of the border. If you are invited to a party at 7 pm and show up at exactly 7 pm or, God forbid, earlier, you will be alone and your hosts may not even be dressed yet. It seems that guests stroll in when they want, and everyone thinks that is just fine. Not to worry. No one else will! You won’t miss dinner. If you’re invited for 8 pm, you may not eat until 11.

You may notice that if a business advertises its opening at 9 am, employees may not show up until 9:30 or so. Banks that open at 9 am (an institution you may think would be punctual) may open their doors on time but the employees will just be strolling in and preparing their desks for the day. Go with the flow.

Most entertainment events do not start exactly on time, but they do make an effort to begin within the half hour. Movies do begin on schedule, as do bullfights. When you’re at a supposedly sold-out live concert and you look around 10 minutes before it begins, you may wonder where everyone is. Look around 20 minutes later, and you will see a full house. Arriving early is neither the norm nor fashionable.

Ahorita is the most confusing Spanish word for foreigners. Literally, it means RIGHT NOW. But it never actually does. It can mean anywhere from five minutes to two hours, or even tomorrow morning. If a worker tells you he will return ahorita, the fact is you don’t know when that will be. Take it with a grain of salt. He may as well be saying “who knows?” If you do need a definite answer, ask a more definite question.

My Mexican friends know our northern habits, and therefore they do try to arrive close to the designated time when meeting me. You may not be able to change your lifelong habits, but wait patiently, and if you are on time by your standards, enjoy the ambience or, as I do, always carry a book with you!

Transport, Traffic, and La Hora Pico

Mexico City has a fine public transport system used by millions of people every day. The most used and popular are the Metro (mostly underground) and the Metrobus, which is a bus with its own lane. Cars NEVER drift over to the Metrobus lane; the fine for disobedience of this law is huge. Ambulances are allowed though.

Both systems are easy, and both use the same card for entrance. The metro is 5 pesos and the Metrobus is 6 pesos (basically 25 cents in US currency). The cards are available at all metro stations. There are maps online. Plus, there are actually two apps, chock full of information: Metrobus CDMX and AppCDMX.

The most important information to keep in mind, however, is La Hora Pico, or rush hour. It is a horror in Mexico City, and even the person who experiences no form of claustrophobia may experience a small panic attack when you observe the crushing hoards in action on public transport.

The hours to avoid public transport or driving: weekdays 7 am to 10 am and then again 5 pm to 9 pm. This applies to all areas of the city. Arrive at your destination early and enjoy a cappuccino if need be.

Metrobus and Metro cars are clean and efficient. The first car of each transport train is designated for women, children, and the elderly. Please honor this, as all of us do.

City buses are available in many parts of the city. There are lots of bike lanes, and it appears more people use them daily. If you travel north in the city or far south you may see cable cars as public transport. In Ixtapalapa, the home owners paint creative designs on their roofs for the enjoyment of the cable car riders.

Do beware of bikes and motorcycles. They seem to believe traffic laws are not written for them, running red lights and essentially just doing as they please. Helmet laws are in effect.

If you are an Uber user, you should be quite content with the service here. The cars are clean and well maintained, unlike many taxis. The drivers are, for the most part, a delight and very often talkative, some speaking English. If you do speak some Spanish, this is a good way to practice. Strike up a conversation; they too enjoy practicing their English.

In every way, Ubers are better than taxis, including reasons of safety and the price of your journey. Do not enter a taxi that accepts only credit cards; it is a scam that will charge your card more than the actual price. I do have a taxi sitio (taxi stand) in my neighborhood that I trust, but for the most part Ubers are the better choice, an important factor being that you are not watching the meter run while sitting in traffic.

Ubers know the quickest and safest routes. You can call them right on the street as well as from a designated location.

Banking

Here are a few money-saving and helpful tips about ATM withdrawals.

First of all, to avoid fraud, always use a bank ATM. A big money saver is to refuse the rate of exchange the bank ATM offers you when you enter your card. Most ATMs provide instructions in both Spanish and English. Just press NO when it reads “Do you accept this rate of exchange?” That way you will receive the exchange rate of your personal bank, which will be assuredly less.

It is best to do your cash withdrawals during weekdays. The ATMs run out of money on the weekends and especially during puentes, three-day weekends.

The cost of an ATM transaction also varies by bank, so if you are not happy with the rate at one bank, try another.

You will always get Mexican pesos at the bank ATMs. Should you need US dollars, you will need to visit a casa de cambio (money exchange).

The Joy of Eating

With the more practical matters out of the way, let’s end with a short discussion about Mexican eating habits and protocols.

The grand capital is replete with restaurants for every eating preference and idiosyncrasy. You may feel overwhelmed when you look online for your favorite. So, here are some general options to narrow down your choices.

The meals. Instead of breakfast, lunch, and dinner, all of México enjoys desayuno, comida, and cena.

Desayuno is eaten before 10 am. Comida, the main meal of the day, begins as early as 1 or 2 pm and is served until 4 or 5 pm. Cena is a light evening meal offered from 7 to 10 pm. This is the habit in Mexican homes. Restaurants often adapt to foreign timetables for eating, and since restaurant times may vary, best to check hours on line.

Street food. To eat or not to eat? My guests’ favorite question, and my advice is benign: It is up to you. There are risks involved everywhere, but more so from street vendors. Often there is no running water in the puestos de comida (food stalls), and employees often handle money and food simultaneously.

The food is usually delicious, and it’s certainly quite cheap. Millions of Mexican workers eat it every day. I confess to eating street taco carnitas occasionally, even though I may experience gastrointestinal backlash the next day.

Market eating. Everyone enjoys the huge buildings that house mountains of fruits, vegetables, meat, and often household items. There are also small restaurants inside the markets. One of my favorites is Mercado Medellin (located in Roma Sur on Campeche and Medellin streets). The market has two locations for restaurants, so be sure to ask one of the vendors where to go.

Chains. Here are some unexpected spots that serve great Mexican meals.

The most famous chain store that also houses a restaurant is Sanborns, owned by the world-famous entrepreneur Carlos Slim.

To this day, the distinct dress of the Sanborns waitresses is famous, going back more than a century ago. Collector and dealer of folk art and archaeological artifacts Francis Davis was invited to open a Mexican curio shop inside the Sanborns Casa de los Azulejos, located in Centro. Davis designed a uniform for the servers and according to some, it was loaded with typical Mexican references. It adds such charm to the restaurant.

Sanborns has a good variety of Mexican food which is quite tasty and traditional. There are Sanborns shops located all over the city. There you will find books, scarves, pharmaceuticals, jewelry, perfumes, and electronics, with the merchandise varying from store to store. It is a practical place to shop, and it is a legend.

Another excellent chain for Mexican food is the Bajio restaurants. Like Sanborns, they are located all over the city. The food is outstanding with a good variety. I frequent the one in the Reforma 222 shopping center. Carnitas are a specialty.

Tipping. Waiters and waitresses receive very small salaries – thus they depend on tips. Some owners do not even pay a salary, the workers’ only compensation being tips. Twenty percent is traditional if the service is good. So please tip your wait staff.

Crème de la crème restaurant. Since I’m always asked about this, I will reluctantly address it here. Based on the reaction of my visitors and reviews, the best upscale restaurant is Rosetta, located in Roma Norte, with the Rosetta bakery, located on the next block, as the choice for the best cafe. Definitely the best pastry is the cafe’s Mil Hojas, covered at greater length in my article “Where the Locals Hang Out: The Unsung Treasures of CDMX” (February 2025).

Soak in the sunshine and joy of this city that is unlike any other.

“One never reaches home, but wherever friendly paths intersect the whole world looks like home for a time.” Hermann Hesse

 

Huatulco

Orizaba: A Mountain Jewel in Veracruz

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By Alicia Flores

Nestled in the heart of the mountains between Puebla and Veracruz lies Orizaba, a city that many travelers still overlook—but shouldn’t. With its colonial architecture, cool climate, and surrounding natural beauty, Orizaba offers a unique mix of history, culture, and outdoor adventure that feels both surprising and welcoming.

The first thing you notice when you arrive in Orizaba is how green everything is. The city sits in a valley below the towering Pico de Orizaba—the tallest mountain in Mexico and the third-highest in North America. Known in Nahuatl as Citlaltépetl, or “Star Mountain,” this dormant volcano dominates the horizon and adds a quiet majesty to the landscape. Even if you’re not planning to climb it (which takes serious mountaineering experience), just knowing it’s there changes the way you see the place. The mountain is more than a backdrop—it feels like a guardian.

The city itself is small but full of charm. The historical center is easy to explore on foot, with well-preserved 19th-century buildings, wide plazas, and iron-laced balconies that speak of a prosperous past. One of the best ways to start your visit is with the Teleférico de Orizaba—a cable car that glides from the city center up to Cerro del Borrego. The views are breathtaking, and once at the top, you can explore walking trails or visit the museum that explains the mountain’s role during the French Intervention in the 19th century.

Back in town, Orizaba is proud of its art and culture. The Palacio de Hierro (Iron Palace) is a standout building designed by Gustave Eiffel—the same engineer who gave Paris its famous tower. This unique structure houses several small museums, including one dedicated to Mexican beer and another with a collection of masks from around the country. It’s also a great spot to learn more about the local history, including the city’s importance during the Porfirio Díaz era.

One of my favorite things to do in Orizaba is walk along the Río Orizaba. The river cuts through the town and is lined with walking paths, murals, and even small animal enclosures that serve as a sort of open-air zoo. It’s a peaceful place for a morning stroll or afternoon break, and the cool mountain air makes it feel refreshing even during the warmer months.

For more history and dining options, visit the Poliforum Mier y Pesado, or Iron Palace, an early 20th-century orphanage, then a school, then a retirement center, built in the French style. It has wonderful ironwork, beautiful gardens, and hosts cultural events. There are a couple of museums, one of which, the Museo del Traje, showcases traditional clothing. The restaurants lean to the upscale, but there are a couple of less expensive cafes. The Poliforum is located on Oriente 6, 1653, a couple of kilometers east of the historic center.

Food in Orizaba is hearty and delicious, shaped by the surrounding regions and the city’s own traditions. Expect tamales wrapped in banana leaves, chiles rellenos in local-style sauces, and sweet treats like jamoncillo (a kind of milk fudge) and toritos—a strong local liqueur made from fruit and sugarcane alcohol. Markets and casual restaurants offer some of the best flavors, but you’ll also find a growing number of cafés and bakeries run by young entrepreneurs bringing fresh energy into the culinary scene.

Because of its location, Orizaba makes a great base if you want to explore more of central Veracruz. Nearby towns like Córdoba or the coffee-growing region of Huatusco are perfect for day trips. But even if you don’t leave the city, Orizaba offers enough beauty and history to keep you happily occupied.

There’s something grounded and genuine about Orizaba. It’s not polished like a resort town, and it’s not trying to be something it’s not. The people are warm, the pace is relaxed, and the air smells faintly of pine and distant rain. It’s a place that doesn’t shout to be seen, but rather invites you to slow down and notice.

If you find yourself looking for a lesser-known part of Mexico to explore—one that blends mountains, culture, and heart—Orizaba might just be your next favorite stop.

Huatulco

Calakmul: A Maya Metropolis Rediscovered

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By Randy Jackson

When thinking about visiting ancient Maya cities, locations like Palenque and Tikal often capture our imagination. Yet one of the largest and most powerful ancient Maya centers remains unfamiliar to many: Calakmul (Kah-lahk-mool), hidden deep within the dense jungles of Campeche near the Guatemalan border. This relatively obscure site dominated the Maya lowlands for centuries until its mysterious abandonment in the 8th and 9th centuries. Swallowed by the jungle for over a thousand years, Calakmul’s towering pyramids and carved monuments now draw the attention of tourists, historians, and anthropologists alike. Though many of its restored structures stand as a testament to a once-thriving civilization, Calakmul today faces new challenges, caught at the intersection of modern development pressures and environmental controversy.

A Short History of Calakmul

Calakmul began as a significant settlement about 300 BCE. It was built on low limestone hills in the lush jungle lowlands. It was surrounded by seasonal marshlands, which its inhabitants engineered into a sophisticated system of 13 water reservoirs. Among these was the largest reservoir in the Maya world, which still exists today.

At its peak, between the 6th and 9th centuries CE, Calakmul exerted considerable control and influence over much of the Maya region, forging alliances and dominating through conquest. For a time, this included control over its formidable rival, Tikal, in what is now Guatemala. Calakmul had over six thousand structures and covered an area of 70 square kilometres (27 square miles). It also had an extensive network of causeways, one of which extended 38 kilometres (24 miles). This network connected most of the cities and settlements of the central and lowlands of the Yucatán. Among its architectural wonders, Calakmul’s main pyramid stands 45 metres (148 feet) tall. Over centuries, Calakmul produced exquisite art, including jade carvings, pottery, and mural paintings, reflecting high craftsmanship and cultural sophistication.

After flourishing for centuries, Calakmul succumbed to the broader patterns of decline that swept through the Maya Civilization. Much has been written about the possible causes of the Maya collapse, which took place around the 8th to 9th centuries. Environmental conditions of prolonged drought and deforestation were a significant underlying cause. Despite its sophisticated network of reservoirs, Calakmul was not immune to more serious ecological degradation and other factors contributing to the overall collapse of the Maya Civilization.

Archaeologists and historians point to several factors that led to the Maya Collapse. Structural changes in society and warfare compounded environmental stresses. Archaeological evidence shows a shift from a society ruled by kings to one ruled by a wider, fractious group of elites in the different Maya centres. This resulted in wars becoming more pervasive and deadly, involving common people in warfare. Previously, warfare was more ritualistic and conducted by a warrior class. Consequently, wars and their effects took men away from other tasks that supported an agricultural-based society. Monuments were no longer being built or maintained, and fields were no longer tended as common people lost faith in a society increasingly disintegrating into chaos and violence. Although the collapse took over a century, one can imagine the poignant image of the last person or family turning one final time to look at Calakmul’s crumbling structures before walking away, leaving the jungle to reclaim it.

Rediscovery and Modern Challenges

Approximately one thousand years later, in 1931, Cyrus Lundell, an American botanist, stumbled on the ruins of Calakmul during a survey looking for stands of the chicozapote tree, which is used in the production of chewing gum. This significant finding began a new era for Calakmul and its surroundings, which had become rich in biodiversity.

The Mexican Revolution had earlier set the stage for land reform, which would one day impact Calakmul. The 1917 constitution, Article 27, introduced ejidos—communal lands that could not be sold but could be worked collectively or individually. Decades later, under Presidents Adolfo López Mateos (1958-1964) and Gustavo Díaz Ordaz (1964-1970), land redistribution based on ejidos was revitalized as part of a broader development and modernization agenda. This land reform impacted Campeche, including the Calakmul area.

Although indigenous people have always lived in this area in smaller numbers, the promise of free land for agriculture attracted landless poor peasants from all over Mexico. Once again, trees were being felled, animals were hunted in larger numbers, and land was cleared for agriculture. The Calakmul environment, once depleted beyond its ability to support the Maya civilization, was then, and is now, again under threat.

In response to the challenges stemming from increasing population, President Carlos Salinas de Gortari (1988-1994) proclaimed the Calakmul Biosphere Reserve, stating that it was to protect the area’s unique biological diversity and numerous ancient Maya ruins. Since this proclamation and a later UNESCO designation, tensions have existed between local campesinos and governmental officials. The campesinos viewed the land as a place to carve out a livelihood, whereas conservationists and government authorities argued for preserving the land in a natural state. Roads and tourist development have exacerbated the issue. In 1991, the campesinos were given responsibility to care for the reserve, and although this has improved some sustainability practices, issues between development and conservation continue. Amid these modern conflicts, the spirits of Calakmul roam the ruins like the howler monkeys.

Visiting Calakmul

The most common route for those wishing to visit Calakmul is driving from Cancún, about 500 km (310 mi) away. Access is through the nearby town of Xpujil, Campeche, a center for numerous nearby ancient Maya ruins. To access Calakmul and the Calakmul Biosphere, there is a signed turnoff from highway 186 near Xpujil. Calakmul is 60 km (37 mi) from highway 186 on a mostly good, but narrow, forested roadway.

At Calakmul, the most significant and central structures have been partially restored, including some of the large pyramids and the acropolis. The site offers captivating Maya ruins that blend into the surrounding jungle, offering a unique experience of discovery and exploration amidst a backdrop of significant biodiversity—a setting befitting such a prominent city of the Maya world that mysteriously disappeared.

For contact and comments, email box95jackson@gmail.com.

Huatulco

Editor’s Letter

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By Jane Bauer

“Mexico is not a country of the past but of the infinite future.” – Octavio Paz

So many people love Mexico these days. Mexico City was just named one of National Geographic’s top eight food destinations for 2025. Travel shows are all over it and every other person you meet is planning a trip—or a move—south. Suddenly it feels like the whole world is cluing in to what many of us have known for a long time.

But when I moved here almost 30 years ago, that wasn’t the general vibe. People thought I was a little nuts. I got a lot of questions: Is it safe? Are you really going to have your baby there? As if babies weren’t born in Mexico every single day.

What I found then—and what I’ve continued to find, over and over again—is a rhythm of life that just made more sense to me. A different pace. A stronger sense of community. A culture where family matters, time isn’t always money, and you can live well without rushing through your days.

While people back home were watching the headlines, I was living something very different. More grounded. More connected. Choosing to live in Mexico and exploring different parts of it has honestly felt like stepping through a portal into another way of being. A way that I’m profoundly grateful to have found.

Now, decades later, I feel like the rest of the world is finally catching up. And I get it. There’s something magnetic about Mexico. It’s not just the beaches (though they’re great). It’s the food, the traditions, the music, the layers of history. It’s how different one region is from another—and how each one offers you something unique if you’re paying attention.

Mexico just elected a female president—before Canada or the U.S., which is kind of wild when you think about it. For a country that so many associate with machismo, this is no small thing. For those who’ve only seen Mexico through the lens of headlines or resorts, this place continues to defy expectations.

In this issue of The Eye, we’re highlighting some of the places in Mexico that might not be on everyone’s radar. Our writers take you beyond the usual vacation spots and into towns and regions that offer something different—something real.

Mexico is not a one-size-fits-all destination. It’s a living, breathing patchwork of languages, landscapes, and local flavors. It invites curiosity. It challenges assumptions. And even after all this time, it still surprises me. I hope this issue inspires you to get out there and explore.

See you in July!

Huatulco

5 Things: San Miguel de Allende

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By Kary Vannice

San Miguel de Allende is a picturesque city famous for its Spanish colonial architecture, colorful facades, cobblestone streets, and thriving artistic scene. Just a few hours from Mexico City, this UNESCO World Heritage Site offers a perfect blend of culture, cuisine, and relaxation. With its mix of colonial charm and modern creativity, the town provides an enchanting escape where visitors can immerse themselves in history, adventure, and natural beauty. Whether you’re an art lover, foodie, or simply seeking a memorable escape, here are five things to experience in San Miguel de Allende.

1. Stay at Casa de la Cuesta

For a truly authentic and immersive stay, book a room at Casa de la Cuesta, a charming bed and breakfast showcasing traditional Mexican architecture and décor. Located just a short walk from the town’s central plaza, you’ll be treated to photo-worthy views, comfortable accommodations, and a relaxing courtyard. Guests can enjoy traditional breakfasts featuring local ingredients and explore the in-house mask museum, a fascinating tribute to indigenous cultures.

2. Dine at Rústica

It’s a must to have breakfast or lunch at Rústica, one of San Miguel’s hidden gems. Known for its fresh, locally sourced ingredients and cozy outdoor garden ambiance, you’ll want to stay for hours, chatting with friends and sipping coffee or chai. The unique, ultra-fresh menu features breakfast pizza (my personal favorite), a mouthwatering fig, arugula, and serrano pizza, and many vegetarian and vegan options, like the popular vegan Chilaquiles. The café’s laid-back vibe and friendly service make it a local favorite.

3. Visit the Fabrica La Aurora

Art enthusiasts will love spending an afternoon at Fabrica La Aurora, a former textile factory transformed into a dynamic art and design center. The space houses galleries, studios, and shops featuring contemporary and traditional Mexican art. You’ll find paintings, sculptures, textiles, and jewelry from talented local artists, as well as interior design shops, restaurants, and cafes. Many galleries also offer workshops and art classes, providing you with the opportunity to participate in the creative vibe.

4. Take a Hot Air Balloon Ride

For a breathtaking view of San Miguel de Allende’s rolling hills and vibrant townscape, embark on a hot air balloon ride at sunrise. Floating high above the city, you’ll start your morning bathed in golden light illuminating the iconic Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel and the surrounding countryside. Many tour operators offer packages that include breakfast and a celebratory toast after your flight, making it a magical and memorable experience you’ll never forget!

5. Visit Cañada de la Virgen

Once you’ve had your fill of San Miguel’s colonial architecture, step back in time by visiting Cañada de la Virgen, a nearby ancient archaeological site. A short drive outside of the city, this Mesoamerican pyramid complex offers guided tours that provide fascinating insights into the rituals and astronomical knowledge of the Otomi people. It’s an experience that’s both educational and awe-inspiring, with spectacular views of the rolling Mexican countryside.

San Miguel de Allende has been honored multiple times by Condé Nast Traveler in its Readers’ Choice Awards. In 2024, it was named the “Best City in Mexico and the World,” marking its fifth appearance at the top of the “Best Small Cities” list.

San Miguel’s charm lies in its vibrant culture, artistic soul, and welcoming atmosphere. Whether you’re wandering through its historic streets, popping into shops and art galleries, savoring the rich flavors of the local cuisine, or sipping cocktails as the sun sets from a charming rooftop bar, every moment here feels like an unforgettable adventure. This town offers a perfect balance of relaxation and discovery, allowing you to experience its magic at your own pace.

Huatulco

Stumbling Steps Towards Huatulco’s Pedestrian Corridor

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By Randy Jackson

Two years ago, in an article titled The Saga of Quinta Avenida (5th Avenue), I reported on the decades-long, start-and-stop development of the pedestrian walkway connecting Santa Cruz and La Crucecita. This corridor, signed as Andador Peatonal (Pedestrian Walkway), started as a project under the presidency of Felipe Calderón (2006-12) through the tourism development agency FONATUR (Fondo Nacional de Fomento Turismo). Since that time, some buildings have appeared along the walkway, although none have been completed, as uncertainties have stalled or slowed investments.

Comparison with Other FONATUR Projects
Pedestrian tourist corridors are a standard feature of FONATUR’s other resorts, and exist in Cancun (Playa del Carmen) and Ixtapa. They are all named 5th Avenue after the famous shopping street in New York City. However, starting right out of the development gate, Huatulco’s 5th Avenue faced one challenge the other resorts did not: Huatulco’s walkway climbs a significant hill. Yet in 2020, after FONATUR reconfigured the sizes of the lots, private developers (and likely some are speculators) stepped up to purchase all twenty-four lots available for sale, possibly buying into the notion “If you build it, they will come,” made popular by the 1989 film, Field of Dreams.

Recent Developments and Challenges
That notion may eventually apply to Huatulco’s pedestrian corridor. As of mid-February of this year, there were seven buildings, two of which appear nearly complete. One of these buildings has multiple retail locations with full glass storefronts; the other is a condominium near the sports complex. When sold, the lots had a covenant requiring the owners to complete their development by December 31, 2025, or face financial penalties. Some owners will undoubtedly exceed this period as most lots show no sign of construction.

Parking and Accessibility Issues
The corridor’s development calls for a mix of residential and retail properties, with 30% of the lots intended for hotels. When the corridor is fully developed, it could attract hundreds of daily guests and visitors, raising the question: What about parking? Parking areas have been allocated for each end of the corridor. On the Santa Cruz end, a 7,132 square-meter (almost 77,000 square feet) parking lot will parallel Santa Cruz Boulevard, next to the Pedestrian Corridor entrance. On the La Crucecita end, two separate lots stretching along the road behind the Naval hospital will total 4,927 square meters (over 50,000 square feet). This could allow approximately 150 to 175 parking slots on each end (using an AI model for the calculation). The parking areas are owned and managed by the corridor lot owners’ association, which is also responsible for ensuring security and maintaining the corridor. As of mid-February, no work has been done on the designated lots for parking.

The Present and Future of the Pedestrian Corridor
The pedestrian corridor stretches about 600 meters (about 660 yards) from end to end. It comprises a walking area on both sides of a single-lane service road. On foot, this traffic-free route is about one kilometre shorter than following the roads between Santa Cruz and La Crucecita. Many people now use this shortcut daily. And where pedestrians go, motorcycles can, regardless of the signs prohibiting motor vehicles. Unfortunately, the corridor has already been the scene of one motorcycle fatality.

Financial Viability and Investor Confidence
The surge in development along the corridor that began in 2022 has since stalled, leading to a financial dilemma for investors. For a pedestrian corridor to thrive, sufficient businesses must operate to draw customers. If the number of open businesses falls below this threshold, the financial viability of new stores, restaurants, and accommodations can be precarious until sufficient foot traffic exists. Furthermore, the earliest developments to open may face additional challenges from construction activity needed for subsequent projects, which can reduce pedestrian traffic. This would have been the rationale for having the time limit covenant for the purchasers of the lots. But that didn’t work.

Speculation on Future Developments
One can also speculate on another factor dampening investor ardour: uncertainty. FONATUR is leaving the future development of Huatulco to the State of Oaxaca, while infrastructure improvements are badly needed. Furthermore, two significant tourist assets, the golf course in Tangolunda and the convention center in Chahue, are mired in legal and political muck. How Huatulco’s 5th Avenue will fare in that context is far from certain.

Conclusion
The development of the pedestrian corridor thus languishes. Although many people appreciate the pedestrian route connecting Santa Cruz with La Crucecita, they will have to wait longer for businesses (and hopefully more illumination at night) to line the walkway.

For contact and comment, email: box95jackson@gmail.com

Huatulco

Editor’s Letter

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By Jane Bauer

“Perhaps travel cannot prevent bigotry, but by demonstrating that all peoples cry, laugh, eat, worry, and die, it can introduce the idea that if we try and understand each other, we may even become friends.” – Maya Angelou

There are a few questions I hear all the time from people traveling to Mexico that drive me absolutely crazy. I get it: people have questions, and the media has done its part to paint a very specific, often inaccurate picture of what to expect in Mexico. But still, these questions speak to outdated assumptions and biases that need to be addressed.

The first one: Can I drink the water? Is the ice safe? We tackled this topic in our water issue back in November, but here’s the short answer—yes, you’ll be fine if you stick to bottled or filtered water, which is the norm. This isn’t the mystery it used to be. Restaurants and hotels understand their clientele, and they’ve adapted accordingly.

The second one, and maybe the most infuriating: How much should I expect to pay for something? Specifically, the cost of a ride from the airport. Whenever I’ve traveled—whether it’s Paris, Chicago, or anywhere else—I’ve never thought to research what a taxi ride should cost to my hotel. The mere act of asking seems rooted in the assumption that you’ll be scammed in some way, which is not only offensive but also highlights a lack of trust and understanding of local culture.

And finally: Is Mexico City safe? Whether I’m talking about how much I love CDMX, how my daughter is thriving there, or asking if someone managed to visit, the knee-jerk response is often a concern for safety. Let’s be clear: Mexico City is one of the most dynamic, exciting, and culturally rich cities in the world. Of course, like any large city, it has its issues—use your street smarts, just as you would in New York, Toronto, or Berlin.

In this issue, we’re diving into all the reasons Mexico City is so special, there are so many things to see, do, and experience. So, if you’ve ever hesitated to explore this extraordinary city, let this be the nudge you need.
Plan a layover in CDMX the next time you travel or even a weekend getaway – you won’t be disappointed and may even discover your new favorite destination.

See you next month,

Jane

 

Huatulco

Where the Locals Hang Out: The Unsung Treasures of CDMX

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By Carole Reedy

The comfortably trite expression “There’s no place like home” perfectly describes my emotion when, upon arrival, the airplane descends through the smog that covers my home of 15 years, and the hazy image of the Mexico City megalopolis comes into view. I’m a traveler whose favorite destination is a city, large or small, elite like Paris or scruffy like Naples. But with each trip and in my advanced years I appreciate returning to the wonder that is my chosen residence.

The lure of a large city is that things are ever changing, but one thing that doesn’t shift is the secure feeling I get while roaming the cracked sidewalks of my home city. (Mexico City was built on an ancient lake bed, into which it is gradually sinking, hence the craquelure of my walkways.)

Other sources of joy are the places I frequent, from street cafes and puestos (food stalls) to bookshops that haven’t changed much over the years. Here’s a sampling.

True Napolitana pizza
Come to Anahuac 38, Colonia Roma Sur, to San Giorgio Pizzeria for true Italian pizza. It was started by three friends who wanted to bring the authentic taste of Italian pizza to Mexico City.

The mozzarella cheese is made fresh daily and only high-quality,100% Italian products are used in the restaurant. Great variety in the topping ingredients will please all taste buds. The lasagna and cannelloni also will satisfy a taste for old-country cuisine.

The owners and employees work long hours to please their clientele. The restaurant is open daily from 1 pm until 11 pm. Take-out and delivery are also available.

Carnitas in a shopping center?
It’s not my habit to eat in a shopping center (I can hardly bear to shop in one). REFORMA 222 is the exception. Located on the city’s most famous avenue, where a select number of stores provide the familiarity of constancy, El Bajio restaurant on the ground floor is actually one of 18 locations in the city. It always surprises me that this eatery isn’t listed among the city’s best restaurants in the many tourist articles that crowd the internet.

For 52 years, starting with one location, the Degollado family has been cooking Mexican food that mostly hails from the states of Michoacán, Puebla, Veracruz, and Oaxaca.

The signature dish, carnitas (literally “little meats”), is pork, Michoacán style, which you can order by the kilo, with or without the fat (maciza), appropriately served with tortillas and garnishes. Be sure to ask about the spiciness of the sauces (¿Qué tan picante es esto?). Even if the server tells you it is un poquito picante continue to beware if you have a tender palate.

The rest of the menu is filled with Mexican specialties to suit all tastes. Another favorite of mine is tacos de lengua (tongue tacos). There are soups, main meat dishes, and a breakfast menu also. You will find many of your favorite traditional Mexican ingredients used here. You can’t go wrong in your choice.

Forego street tacos for the ambiance of Mexico in this attractive well-established restaurant, whose main publicity is word of mouth. Hours daily: 8 am to 11 pm.

Only duck tacos served here
Manila restaurant has a couple locations in the city, but I’m most familiar with the one in the Condesa neighborhood at Culiacán 91 (close to the major avenue Insurgentes). The small locale seats a few people inside at the counter and a couple of tables, as well as a few tables on the sidewalk in front. Nothing fancy here, just good food.

Only two varieties of tacos are served, but a side order of won tons is available. Beer and soft drinks are your beverage choices.

The tacos: the first variety is duck meat in a flour tortilla with cucumber and hoisin sauce. The other is shredded duck on a warm corn tortilla, with cilantro and chopped onion (my preference).

Like the other eateries mentioned here, the establishment is open many hours a week, beginning at 1 pm and closing as late as 11pm on the weekends.

Gypsy Pizza
Fifteen years ago while flaneuring in my new neighborhood, Cuauhtémoc, I stumbled across a tiny Italian restaurant on Calle Rio Neza 30 called Mezzo Mezzo. I returned with a friend who was enthusiastic about trying an unusual pizza on the menu called “Gypsy Pizza.”

Truthfully, it sounded awful to me, but wanting to please my friend I agreed to order it, figuring I could pick off the parts I didn’t like. To my surprise, the flavors of Brie cheese and figs blended perfectly. Now I take guests there as a routine part of the city tours I enjoy providing.

It’s not just the Gypsy Pizza that’s the lure, but a warm feeling of security that returning to a familiar restaurant or place provides. Now, 15 years later, I still recognize one of the servers. The wine list remains the same, and the prices have not increased as much as in the other, greedier establishments of this popular neighborhood.

The restaurant is quite busy between 2 pm and 5 pm on weekdays due to a hungry lunch crowd. Not to worry, as with several of my other favorite establishments here, the owners are accommodating, with hours seven days a week noon to midnight.

The most sumptuous dessert ever
This dessert is called El Mil Hojas de Frutos Rojos (Mille Feuille with Red Berries) and it is found at one of the most popular bakeries in Mexico City, Rosetta Bakery.

No doubt you have seen the publicity for the Rosetta restaurant (Calle Colima in trendy Roma Norte) and its renowned award-winning chef Elena Reygadas. The bakery is located just down the street.

First, it is a bakery where you can carry out the most interesting croissants, breads, and desserts, or you can simply enjoy them at the counter with a cappuccino. But there’s also a small outdoor cafe where excellent sandwiches are served. Only the highest quality meats, cheeses, and other ingredients are used in a Rosetta establishment.

The outstanding item here, however, is the dessert, Mil Hojas, available both by the slice or whole for special occasions according to the number of people you are serving. The cream and fresh raspberries nestled between layers of puff pastry and pastry cream combine to create a heavenly, not too sweet, taste.

Mil Hojas is French in origin. In 1651, chef François Pierre de la Varenne published the recipe for mille-fuelle in Le Cuisinier François. Don’t confuse it with a Napoleon. Napoleon has layers of almond paste instead of cream. Traditional mille-feuille consists of three layers of puff pastry alternating with two layers of pastry cream.

The Rosetta Bakery is open mornings starting between 7:00 to 7:30am. It closes between 9:30 and 10 pm.

The only criticism I’ve read on TikTok of this marvelous treat is the cost. Too expensive? Worth every peso, in my view.

Rio Lerma: The sreet of comida corrida
This is the street to visit to learn the true meaning of comida corrida, which is literally Mexico’s fast food. Don’t be fooled by the name. This is no McDonald’s or Burger King, but rather a healthy well-balanced meal usually consisting of four parts: soup, rice or pasta, meat or fish, and a simple dessert. There’s always a fixed menu, changed daily to accommodate nearby workers who frequent these restaurants.

Apparently the tradition of comida corrida started with the urbanization of the city during the “reign” of Porfirio Díaz. Workers traveled far from home for their employment and had little time to eat. The comida corrrida satisfied with a healthy and filling meal.

Sprinkled all along Rio Lerma starting at Rio Marne and ending at Rio Elba you will find several of these establishments serving traditional Mexican meals. Should your taste buds yearn for something other than Mexican, there’s also a selection of foreign food restaurants, from Uruguayan and Japanese to Italian. It’s a wonderful street for the curious traveler!

The most reliable recommendations usually originate by word of mouth or are discovered via flaneuring. Walking aimlessly is the manner in which I found these gems. I hope you’ll discover even more on your journey through this awe-inspiring city.

Huatulco

Three Thrilling Days in Mexico City

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By Marcia Chaiken and Jan Chaiken

We can’t quite imagine having only three days to explore the wonders of Mexico City. Even during decades of long-term visits when we enjoyed so many parks, museums, music venues, restaurants and theaters, it was sometimes difficult to select from the next available offerings. But realizing that you may not have the luxury of an extended vacation, we have selected two walkable sectors and a bus tour in CDMX as a possible limited three-day deep taste of the richness the city has to offer.

Centro Historico

The historic center of Mexico should not be missed. Almost all forms of transportation can bring you to the central zocalo (plaza) area (see the article by Julie Etra elsewhere in this issue). We suggest beginning at the beginning – the archeological Aztec site of the Templo Mayor (main temple, or Huēyi Teōcalli in Nahuatl). Walking through the remains and the museum that is run by the federal agency INAH (Instituto Nacional de Antropología e Historia) will help you appreciate the magnificence of the empire that existed in the 1300s. It was governed from the city of Tenochtitlan that was centered on this very spot – two hundred years before the Spanish invasion in the 1500s.

Leap ahead several centuries after the Spanish demolished this thriving empire – primarily through diseases brought from Europe – and across the zócalo visit the Metropolitan Cathedral of the Assumption of the Most Blessed Virgin Mary into Heaven, aka The CDMX Metropolitan Cathedral. This magnificent baroque structure, which opened in 1813, is a prime example of the persistent attempt of the Spanish invaders to supplant every aspect of the indigenous culture with their own, while using the wealth and physical strength of those whom they conquered to do so. The project began in1524 as a more modest church but over the following decades the plans for a cathedral developed with the involvement of the Pope. As you’ll no doubt find out on your tour, over the centuries, the architecture and furnishings became more and more elaborate.

We suggest then stopping by the ticket office at the National Palace to buy tickets for an afternoon entrance and tour. You might then spend some time exploring the handicrafts being sold by vendors in the zocalo. You’re likely to find some unique souvenirs. But perhaps more importantly, you’ll find that both the people and the crafts are a fine mix of the DNA and culture of both the indigenous and European people with modern ingenuity.

Once you’ve had enough of deciding which vendors deserve your pesos, we suggest walking the few blocks to the incredible cultural center Palacio de Bellas Artes. This is the home of the Ballet Folklorico, and if you’ve never seen them and your visit coincides with a performance, we urge you to purchase tickets at the box office on the first floor. Or find out what other musical performances are being presented that night either in the main auditorium (itself worth a tour) or upstairs in the small but acoustically perfect Sala Manuel M. Ponce. After purchasing entrance tickets to the upstairs art gallery, climb the stairs to continue your Mexican history education by studying the striking 1934 mural by Diego Rivera, Man at the Crossroads. Rivera basically incorporates his own view of the development of modernity in the details of this masterpiece. The other murals and art in the gallery are all deserving of discovery, but we urge you to spend sufficient time scrutinizing the Rivera mural until it becomes a permanent part of your memory.

You must be getting hungry by now, so head to the nearby Sanborns de los Azulejos (Sanborns in the House of Tiles, at Madero 4). You will probably need to put your name on a list to sit in the main dining room, but there is plenty to explore while you wait. One of the oldest restaurants in CDMX, and formerly an 18th Century palace, the architecture and artwork are enchanting. (And if your feet are beginning to blister, as in almost all Sanborns, there’s a pharmacy). After being seated, enjoy the ambiance, including many families with well-behaved children enjoying the dishes Sanborns has served for generations.

After you’re rested, watered and fed, wander slowly back to the zocalo, enjoying the sights and musical sounds of the area, and arrive the National Palace to view another Rivera masterpiece depicting the history of Mexico and other murals. In addition to the building, which has functioned as the seat of government for centuries since the time of Cortez, there is a garden within the walls which provides a quiet place for enjoying the plants and flowers and perhaps even a quick siesta. Had enough history? You might head over to the Museum of Modern Art – and stop by the always busy restaurant El Cardinal (next to the museum) to put your name on a list for a table for an early dinner before your evening performance at Bellas Artes. Or choose to visit the National Museum of Popular Arts and dine at the El Cardinal Alameda (in the Hilton Hotel Reforma, Avenida Juarez 70).

Chapultepec Park

You haven’t been to Mexico City if you haven’t been to the Park. Plan to spend the whole day. But before you enter the Park check out the National Auditorium ticket office to buy tickets for an evening performance either in the Auditorium or on the grounds of the Chapultepec Castle in the park. Begin your day in the park at the Museum of Anthropology (Paseo de la Reforma Avenue and Gandhi Street in the Polanco neighborhood). After buying your ticket, head right to the visitors’ services desk and ask about tours. The place is enormous and covers thousands of years, so a knowledgeable guide is useful for a first visit. If no tours are scheduled during your visit – don’t worry. Ask for a map of the museum and a suggested route. There will be videos and written explanations along your way. You are about to have an immersive experience of the many cultures that developed in Mexico while the Europeans were still painting themselves blue and literally living a hand-to-mouth existence. The artwork and crafts are remarkable, the religious practices well before the Aztecs are notable, and the opulent lifestyles of the royal classes rival those of today’s celebrities. And the variations between different times and geographical regions are well worth paying close attention to. If your head starts swimming and you need a break, there is a cafeteria with decent food and a lovely garden setting featuring, of course, huge artifacts from digs around the country. You could certainly spend the whole day in this museum, but most visitors find that four hours is the very most they can absorb.

Another rewarding visit in the park for plant lovers is the Botanical Gardens. There are over 300 botanical species, and whether you are a fan of cacti, orchids or dahlias, you will be delighted by the display. If you are more a lover of art than orchids, you have a decision to make. The Park’s Museum of Modern Art (MAM) has an interesting permanent collection, including works by Frida Kahlo, Diego Rivera, David Alfaro Siqueiros, and José Clemente Orozco. Our many trips to the museum have been for temporary exhibitions that have been serendipitously fascinating. On the other hand, you can head to the Tamayo Museum of Contemporary Art and blow your mind with over 300 paintings, sculptures and photographs by 170 artists that were collected by Olga and Rufino Tamayo.

Once you’ve seen almost more than your mind can take, we suggest a quiet stroll around the lake in the park. If you’ve selected an evening performance at the Chapultepec Castle, there are restaurants and carts with vendors selling a quick bite to eat before you climb the hill or take the trolley up to your performance. If you’re heading back to the National Auditorium, we suggest nearby El Bajio, always delicious and always busy – so call first to reserve.

Turibus

So … in two days you’ve walked your feet off and filled your brain with some of the best of Mexico City. For your third day, we urge you to take the Hop-on Hop-off Turibus around the city. We avoided taking the bus for years based on sheer snobbery, but broke down when one of our granddaughters joined us in CDMX for a week. The views of the different neighborhoods are lovely, the audio patter both educational and amusing, and places that are accessible (including the central historic area and the National Auditorium/Chapultepec Park) are a taste for your next trip to Mexico City. You might consider winding up your bus tour at the Soumaya Museum stop. The lovely little Degas miniatures on the top floor are alone worth a visit. If you are planning to do that, buy tickets for a performance at the Telcel Theater a block away. We’ve seen superb performances there of Broadway shows including Les Miz and the Lion King – in Spanish of course, but you already know the words. And for dinner before the performance, the mall Telcel Plaza Carso has a plethora of great restaurants.

Selecting places to visit in Mexico City in just three days is a challenge. We’ve had years of exploration and weren’t able to hit all the high spots. Still, we hope that, if you must curtail your time in the city, we’ve provided suggestions you will enjoy and will entice you to return.