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HUX August 2026
Category Archives: Huatulco
The Restless Pull Of The Sea
By Randy Jackson—
In a forest, gentle nature surrounds us. On the stark edge of a mountain peak, nature’s architecture lies beneath us. But at the edge of the sea, we stop. We stand where the world is wide open, where the horizon meets the sky. Where the spin of the earth jostles the oceans, and our own restlessness matches the swell and crash of waves.
The sea draws each of us in our individual ways. For some, the restlessness favours adventure, for others, the call is inward, but for all of us, the sea is ready and willing. The waters off Huatulco know that well. Long before resorts lined the shore, Spanish galleons and legendary pirates like Francis Drake prowled them. That same magnetic pull still exists today. But not every sea adventurer is a conqueror; the sea also issues a more private calling, as these three modern stories show.
Floating in a Car across the Atlantic
The restlessness of Giorgio Amoretti was legendary. This free-spirited Italian photojournalist once rode his Vespa from the Arctic Circle to Cape Town, South Africa. He then crossed the Sahara, hanging from a parachute towed by a car. Perhaps it was standing at the Cape of Good Hope, looking out to the Southern Ocean, where his restless spirit met the sea’s calling. His idea was to float across the ocean in a Volkswagen Beetle. In 1978, he was stopped by Spanish maritime authorities in his Styrofoam-stuffed Beetle and had to abandon the attempt.
Yet the dream did not die in Giorgio, and his three sons seemed to be infected by it. So much so that, 20 years later, after Giorgio received a fatal cancer diagnosis, his three sons and a friend sought to complete Giorgio’s dream. They modified a Volkswagen Passat and a Ford Taunus for an ocean crossing. On May 4, 1999, the four set out from the Canary Islands in these bizarre-looking crafts.
To avoid the Spanish port authorities, they left well before dawn, using outboard motors until they ran out of gasoline, after which they threw the motors overboard. They had hoped that currents would pull them across the Atlantic, but they were soon stuck in a circular current far from shore. While stuck, two members of the group had to be rescued by helicopter due to severe seasickness. The remaining two car-sailors persevered, eventually breaking free of the circular current, and made progress slowly with the help of the trade winds.
The journey took longer than expected, and they ran out of provisions. But with fishing and capturing plankton in women’s stockings, an idea they got out of a survival book, they made do with a survival-level diet for four months before reaching Martinique in the Caribbean.
During their time at sea, the restless dreamer, Giorgio, passed away, never doubting his sons would complete the journey he had initiated. It is a testament to the sea’s power to inspire such beautiful madness in the human spirit. Yet, floating in a station wagon across the Atlantic is just one way the sea coaxes the restlessness out of us in adventurous ways.
Rowing 12,000 Kilometers Alone in the Pacific
Years after the floating cars arrived in the Caribbean, on the other side of the world, a fourteen-year-old Australian boy stood in front of his bathroom mirror and made a personal commitment to become the youngest person ever to row across the Pacific.
Up to that point, Tom Robinson’s restlessness had been gradual. Although his father loved the sea and sailing, Tom’s interest lay elsewhere. That is, until his family moved to a house on the Brisbane River. There, he began rowing a plywood boat to and from school, drawn increasingly to the particular silence that nature and open water provide. Then, on a solo five-day rowing trip down the Brisbane River and out to sea toward the Gold Coast, the restless call of the open ocean evoked that personal promise, although it would take nine years to realize.
In those nine years, Tom finished high school and apprenticed as a boat builder. Based on 19th-century whale-hunting boats, Tom designed and built a wooden rowboat capable of crossing the open Pacific. In 2022, Tom had his boat shipped to Peru to begin his journey, hoping to catch the same Humboldt Current that his adventure hero Thor Heyerdahl had ridden on his Kon-Tiki expedition seventy-five years earlier.
Tom’s departure was delayed for some months, putting him closer to the cyclone season. He planned to row to the Marquesas Islands in French Polynesia, some 6,400 kilometres distant, to wait out the cyclone season. But the sea had other ideas. After almost three months of rowing, it became clear to Tom that he could not reach the Marquesas Islands. With supplies running low, he consulted his nautical maps and found the nearest inhabited island in the Northern Cook Islands, another 1,500 kilometres away.
Finally, after 8,000 kilometres of rowing, Tom noticed a grey smudge on the horizon and knew it to be land. He had been at sea for five months at this point and was overwhelmed with euphoria and relief upon spotting land. “Land Ho,” he yelled to the open Pacific. He had made it to the island of Penrhyn.
Tom was the first international visitor the islanders had seen in three years. He was warmly welcomed, and in the Polynesian tradition, he was given a new name, Mahuta-Hoehoe-Asanga, the warrior who has paddled from afar.
Tom joined the islanders’ work and pastimes for four months before setting off again, stopping first in American Samoa to treat an illness, then rowing through the island archipelago of Vanuatu, before setting out on the final leg to Australia.
On day 265 of his journey from Peru, his boat was hit by a rogue wave while his cabin hatch was open, flipping the boat upside down. Tom was unable to right it. As the salt water activated his emergency beacon, a passing cruise ship came to his rescue, its passengers crowded at the railings, watching the approach and recovery of a naked man sitting atop the hull of his upturned boat in the middle of the Pacific. The Pacific had taken his boat, but his restless quest was etched into history.
The Pull Beyond Adventure
The sea pulled the Amoretti brothers toward their father’s dream and pulled Tom Robinson toward a personal quest across the Pacific. But for Bernard Moitessier, the pull was something else entirely, something beyond adventure.
Moitessier is probably best known for what he did in the 1968 Golden Globe sailing race. The first race in which solo sailors would circumnavigate the globe non-stop. Moitessier’s times were impressive, and he was likely to win, except that his love of the sea and his deep mystical spirituality changed his course and the direction of his life.
After circumnavigating the globe, sailing almost 60,000 kilometres over 10 months, with just the final leg from the Cape of Good Hope to Britain to go, Moitessier quit the race. To notify race officials, he catapulted a message canister containing a written message onto the deck of a passing ship. The message was simple: “I am continuing non-stop toward the Pacific Islands because I am happy at sea, and perhaps also to save my soul.” He then carried on across the Pacific to Tahiti.
Bernard Moitessier lived until 1994, continuing his pursuit of the sea and writing several books, including The Long Way, which has become a must-read for solo sailors and lovers of tales of the sea’s pull.
In our own way, we are all familiar with the restless pull of the sea and what that means to us. It is a pull of nature, but unlike the pull we feel in forests and on mountains. The American artist Robert Henri once said, “Why do we love the sea? It is because it has some potent power to make us think things we like to think.”
Randy Jackson blends local reporting from the perspective of a seasonal Huatulco resident with explorations of life and change in Huatulco, Oaxaca and Mexico.
Email: box95jackson@gmail.com
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Deep Connection: A guide to Huatulco’s Liquid Landscapes
By Nancy Reyes—
A visit to Huatulco offers beautiful beaches and spectacular bays. Whether you’re looking to surf, snorkel, dive, fish, or explore Oaxaca’s rich cultural traditions, there are countless ways to experience the region. Here are a few ideas to help you make the most of your next visit.
Surfing
With warm water year-round, Huatulco is an excellent destination for surfers of all levels. For beginners, Playa La Bocana offers gentle, consistent waves that provide a comfortable environment for learning. More experienced surfers often head to Playa Mojón or Barra de la Cruz, located about 30 minutes down the coast, where larger and more challenging waves can be found.
Surf lessons and board rentals are available in Barra de la Cruz.
Surf trips can also be arranged through Gil at Café Surf: www.huatulcosurftrip.com
Diving & Snorkeling
Huatulco National Park protects one of the most important marine ecosystems on the Oaxacan coast. Coral formations, rocky reefs, mangroves, and abundant marine life make it a popular destination for both divers and snorkelers. Here, you can witness the underwater whims of the Pacific—look for the sea turtles, rays and a kaleidoscope of tropical fish.
Whether you’re exploring shallow reefs or venturing farther offshore, the park is an opportunity to experience the region’s underwater biodiversity firsthand.
Fishing
Sport fishing has long been part of life on the Oaxacan coast. Half-day and full-day excursions are available throughout Huatulco, ranging from local fishing boats to fully equipped sport-fishing yachts. The summer months are particularly exciting for catching Marlin and Sailfish.
When booking a trip, consider choosing operators that follow sustainable fishing practices and respect local marine conservation efforts.
My Top Three Huatulco Water Experiences:
San Agustin Bay Snorkeling
This bay is my top choice for those seeking raw, untouched beauty. Located within the Huatulco National Park, it protects a vital marine ecosystem where the coral formation and rocky reefs are remarkably accessible. San Agustin Bay is located a 40-minute drive from Huatulco’s Hotel district.
Sunrise at La Bocana
One of the best ways to begin your day is catching the early morning sun at Playa La Bocana. It is a vital coastal ritual that allows you to enjoy the water before the midday heat. If you surf, bring your board. Breakfast at one of the beachfront restaurants rounds out the experience.
Copalitilla Waterfalls
Go beyond the beach and visit the Copalitilla Waterfalls. It’s totally worth it! These spectacular, crystal-clear series of cascading waterfalls are surrounded by a tropical jungle of towering ceiba and mahogany trees, orchids, lacey ferns and wild cacao plants. The best time to visit is from November to May. If you are visiting during the rainy season be careful with washed out roads and muddy water.
Practical Tips for Travelers
Booking: Use trusted sources, review the contact information, reviews from other guests. The Secretary of Tourism recommends using accredited tour guides and advises avoiding services offered on public roads. For tourist assistance during your visit to Oaxaca, contact:
Tourist Protection Center: 951 5021200 ext. 1204.
Emergency Numbers: (911) Green Angels (078).
Reservation and cancellation fees. Carefully review the fees for the service you are hiring. In some cases, services do not accept cancellations or refunds. It is suggested that you try to plan ahead your adventures.
Weather conditions. Review weather and respect notices of closed roads or beaches, especially during the rainy season.
Stay Hydrated. Drink water and limit alcohol consumption. Schedule outdoor activities during the early morning or late afternoon hours to avoid exposure to midday sun. In cases of overheating, a cold shower is recommended as the fastest way to bring down your body temperature.
And don’t forget your camera. As a recent Bad Bunny song reminds us, we often wish we had taken more pictures. Huatulco provides plenty of moments worth remembering.
Nancy Reyes, was born in Mexicali, holds a Language Sciences PhD, blends research and storytelling to bridge the profound connections between language and Mexico’s layered cultural identity.
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Art in Huatulco
By José Palacios y Román—
“Traveler, there is no path. The path is made by walking,” wrote Antonio Machado in Campos de Castilla. The verse reminds us that uncertainty is part of being alive, part of creating your own way. That idea hits home when I think about painting in Huatulco. Like walking, art here is shaped step by step. Painting is still a young tradition in Huatulco, but it’s already bearing fruit — sometimes in unexpected ways.
When Huatulco became a tourist destination, it drew young artists. Some stayed for a while, then moved on: Marco Antonio Contreras from Puebla, Jesús Castillo from Chiapas, and José del Signo, whose fresco still covers the entire nave of the Parish of Guadalupe.
Others like Rafael Ortega, put down roots. Beyond his studio work and public murals and sculptures, he taught drawing and painting and served for years as director of the Casa de la Cultura. Those painting classes at the Casa de la Cultura planted seeds. Some students discovered a calling. Others, like Edna Guzmán, built professional careers. Abdías García became the first from the municipality to study fine arts, winning a scholarship to the Benito Juárez University of Oaxaca. Aranza León recently graduated from the same school. Also worth mentioning: Eusebio Villalobos, a painter and muralist from Pochutla, and Heriberto Palafox, with his distinguished regional career.
As Bahías de Huatulco grew, so did its art scene. Master artist Rafael Ortega opened his workshop. Tania Guzmán and the Huatulco Art Gallery joined the mix. In Tangolunda, Copalli Art Gallery — run by Liliana Gómez Martínez and cultural promoter José Palacios y Román — focuses on discovering and promoting local artists from Santa María Huatulco.
There’s also the annual REMAX exhibition, launched by Jim and Mary Spicka with support from Bernard Healy (Kino) to showcase local and Oaxacan talent. Colectivo Tilcuate hosts occasional shows plus their yearly event, Oaxaquia.
Copalli Art Gallery has become a launchpad for emerging artists. Young talents like Aranza León, Javi Vasher, Hergón, and Abi Guzmán all held their first exhibitions there, introducing themselves to the community.
That same synergy sparked “La Magia del Color” — The Magic of Color — a collective of women artists. Twelve of them recently debuted at Copalli Art Gallery, following a moving exhibition of children and adults from the Casa de la Cultura. This is just a glimpse of how painting is taking center stage in Huatulco, right as the town itself steps into new growth.
The movement keeps going with workshops and courses, like the one this August with international artist Monse Pla — Martha Terceño from Catalonia — plus a major retrospective of her work.
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Thirsty Vines: Water, Wine, and the Future of Mexican Vineyards
By Melissa Lyon—
Mexico’s wine industry is enjoying a golden age, but behind the award-winning bottles and picturesque vineyards lies a challenge that is becoming impossible to ignore: water.
Historically, Mexican wines have thrived in the unique conditions found throughout the country, with lots of sunshine, patient vintners, and just enough water. But what happens when “just enough water” becomes increasingly difficult to find? Across Mexico’s wine regions, from the sun-soaked valleys of Baja California to the high plains of Coahuila and the rolling vineyards of Querétaro and Guanajuato, winemakers are confronting an uncomfortable reality: climate change is reshaping the future of wine.
Of course, wine has always depended on weather. Too much rain, and grapes become diluted. Too little, and vines struggle. Just the right combination of temperatures and precipitation is like lightning in a bottle. The famous Valle de Guadalupe in Baja California, for example, enjoys warm days, cool nights, and a Mediterranean-like climate ideal for grapes. But recent years have brought hotter temperatures, prolonged drought, and increasing pressure on groundwater supplies. Water scarcity, once a seasonal concern, has become a year-round conversation.
Baja is not alone. In Coahuila, home to some of the oldest wineries in the Americas, including the renowned Casa Madero, producers face hotter summers and shifting rainfall patterns. Central Mexican wine regions such as Querétaro and Guanajuato are also experiencing increasing climate variability, including unexpected frosts, hailstorms, and heat spikes. For winemakers, this unpredictability is becoming one of the industry’s greatest challenges. Grapes, after all, are fussy little creatures.
The good news? Mexican winemakers are famously resourceful.
Across the country, wineries are increasingly embracing sustainability, not only because it is environmentally responsible, but because savvy consumers demand it, and survival depends on it. Water conservation has become a major priority. Many vineyards now use drip irrigation systems that deliver precise amounts of water directly to the vine roots rather than wasting it through sprinklers or flood irrigation. Soil management techniques such as mulching and cover crops help retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and improve soil health.
Some wineries are experimenting with dry farming, allowing vines to survive largely on natural rainfall once they become established. Others are investing in water recycling systems, treating and reusing water from cleaning processes or landscaping. Solar energy is becoming increasingly common as well, particularly in Baja California, where abundant sunshine makes renewable power a practical choice. Sustainability, in many vineyards, has shifted from trendy buzzword to practical necessity.
Then there is the grape question. Not all varieties respond equally well to heat and drought. Some grapes suffer in extreme heat, while others are perfectly happy basking under the Mexican sun.
Traditional French varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Grenache continue to perform well in parts of Baja California, particularly when growers carefully manage irrigation and canopy cover. Mediterranean grapes, however, are gaining increasing attention for their resilience. Varieties such as Mourvèdre, Tempranillo, Carignan, and Italian grapes like Nebbiolo tolerate heat and water scarcity better than more delicate varietals.
White wines are evolving too. In warmer conditions, grapes can ripen quickly, risking overly alcoholic wines with less acidity. To adapt, growers are experimenting with varieties that maintain freshness despite rising temperatures. Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Vermentino, and Viognier are showing promise in several Mexican regions.
Perhaps the clearest sign of climate change arrives during harvest season. Traditionally, grape harvests followed predictable schedules. Today, many vineyards are harvesting earlier, sometimes weeks earlier than in decades past. Rising temperatures accelerate ripening, meaning grapes can accumulate sugar faster. Harvesting earlier helps preserve balance and freshness in the finished wine.
Harvest itself is changing too. Some vineyards now pick grapes at night or during the cool hours before sunrise to protect delicate fruit from intense daytime heat. Workers equipped with headlamps gathering grapes beneath the stars may sound romantic, but it is also practical. Cooler grapes arrive at the winery in better condition, reducing energy needed for refrigeration and preserving flavor. So, what does the future of Mexican wine look like? In a word, optimistic.
Yes, climate change presents real challenges, particularly around water scarcity. But the Mexican wine industry has always been defined by adaptation and innovation. Unlike many European wine regions steeped in tradition and governed by centuries-old rules about what can be planted and where, Mexico’s wine industry has flexibility. Winemakers are free to experiment with new techniques and varietals, and to rethink old assumptions.
As the industry evolves, the wines will too. New wine regions at higher elevations may emerge. Sustainable farming practices will likely expand and take root across the country.
And consumers will increasingly value the story behind the bottle, including how thoughtfully a winery manages its land, water, and resources.
And so, fear not, wine enthusiasts! The future of Mexican wine remains bright, sustained by innovative growers who are learning to make every drop of water count.
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Water Does More Than Just Hydrate; It Heals
By Kary Vannice
Long before anyone measured cortisol in a lab, people were wading into rivers, lakes and streams to let go of what they were carrying. When we think of the health benefits of water, we usually think only of drinking it to stay hydrated. But water does more for us than simply keep us alive. For thousands of years, people have turned to water for more than just survival. They have sought it out for comfort, healing, renewal, purification, and perspective.
In Judaism, the mikvah is a ritual bath used not for hygiene but for spiritual cleansing and transformation. In Islam, wudu prepares the body and mind for prayer through ritual washing. In Hinduism, bathing in the Ganges is believed to purify the soul and release old burdens. Christian baptism symbolizes death and rebirth, the letting go of one identity and the emergence of another.
And here in Mexico, water has played a similarly powerful role.
The Maya viewed cenotes as sacred portals to Xibalba, the underworld, places where communication between worlds was possible. The temazcal, used by the Maya, Aztecs, and Toltecs, combined water, steam, heat, and ritual to support purification and renewal. Throughout Mexico, thermal springs became places where people gathered for both physical healing and spiritual restoration.
Each of these practices emerged independently, in cultures separated by oceans and centuries, often with no contact at all. And yet they kept landing on the same instinct: that water engages human emotion. It changes us and it heals us.
The religious historian Mircea Eliade spent much of his career studying these patterns, and he noted something simple but profound, that across an enormous range of spiritual traditions, water consistently shows up as the element that dissolves, washes away, purifies, and renews.
Only recently has science begun building a vocabulary for what these traditions always knew to be true. Researchers have identified a measurable shift that happens in the nervous system when someone is near water. They experience lowered stress hormones, a calmer body, a different quality of attention.
Marine biologist Wallace J. Nichols coined the term Blue Mind to describe this mildly meditative state. He described water as something that quiets all the surrounding noise and distraction and reconnects us to our own thoughts.
Researchers studying so-called “blue spaces” have reached similar conclusions. These environments, which include oceans, rivers, lakes, wetlands, and coastlines, are increasingly associated with improved mental wellbeing.
Environmental psychologist Mathew White of the University of Exeter has found that people who spend time near water often report greater happiness and lower levels of psychological distress. Some studies even suggest that people who live near coastlines experience higher overall wellbeing than those who live farther inland.
It seems modern-day science is “discovering” what our ancestors knew all along. But water’s influence doesn’t stop with the mind.
Research suggests that ocean swimming can reduce stress, lower anxiety, improve mood, stimulate circulation, and support overall health. Seawater contains minerals that benefit the skin, while ocean air carries microscopic sea particles that contribute to respiratory health and a greater sense of wellbeing.
Thermal waters also offer many health benefits. Long valued by cultures around the world, mineral-rich hot springs can relax muscles, improve circulation, reduce joint stiffness, and ease chronic pain. And people who soak in thermal waters often describe not just physical relief, but also mental restoration and renewal.
Even the sound of water appears to have beneficial effects on us. The rhythmic crash of waves, the gentle fall of rain, the steady movement of a river. These sounds calm the nervous system and promote deeper sleep.
Since ancient times, water has been used as medicine physically, emotionally, and spiritually. What’s telling is not that just a few cultures discovered this, but that nearly every culture has.
The Maya sought wisdom and connection through sacred cenotes. Romans built elaborate bathhouses devoted to healing. Indigenous peoples throughout the Americas used water and steam for purification and transformation. Today, that instinct has simply found a new vocabulary. Doctors in the UK are now writing “Bluescriptions”, as part of a growing program that uses nature to treat anxiety, stress, and other mental health struggles.
Because water is all around us, anyone can write their own Bluescription. Just consider which form of water would offer the most support, drinking it, bathing in it, swimming in it, listening to it, watching it, walking near it, or even just picturing it in your imagination. Each of these has demonstrated real benefits for better health. The idea is surprisingly simple: water doesn’t have to be extraordinary to be healing. It simply has to be present.
Kary Vannice is a writer and energetic healer who explores the intersections of culture, consciousness, and daily life in Mexico.
You may enjoy these articles:
Sound and Breath: Journeys of Healing in Oaxaca
Chronic Silent Inflammation: The Real Enemy of Modern Aging
Skip the Supplement and Order the Mole
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Masters of Flight: The Brown Pelicans of Oaxaca’s Coast
By Julie Etra—
Brown pelicans (Pelecanus occidentalis) are a common and delightful sight along Mexico’s Costa Chica. I never tire of watching them swoop and glide effortlessly along the coastline, skimming just above the waves as if gravity barely applies to them.
Brown Pelican Basics.
Taxonomy
Based on fossil records, they have been around for at least 30 million years but have remained morphologically and physiologically unchanged. Their seemingly bulky body is perfectly suited to the coastal ecosystems in which they reside, including their feeding habits. Although references vary there are five to seven species of pelican worldwide. The Oaxacan coast is unusual because two subspecies may be found here: the California brown pelican (P. o. californicus) and the Eastern brown pelican (P. o. carolinensis), although most of the birds seen locally are believed to be P. o. carolinensis. Their differences are subtle, so next time you see one pay attention. They rarely venture more than 20 miles out to sea or far inland and are non-migratory.
They are relatively uniform in appearance, with of course the large white pelican being the exception (this is a fresh or brackish water species). They typically live 15-30 years in the wild although mortality is high in the first few years of life and are sexually mature at three- five years of age. Populations have rebounded dramatically from the brink of near extinction due to the pesticide DDT, which weakened the shells of their eggs, and was banned in the United States in 1972. Today their numbers are estimated to exceed 370,000.
Feeding
Brown pelicans primarily eat fish, particularly sardines and herrings but also an occasional crustacean, egg, or amphibian. When I head out to snorkel at Playa La Entrega and see circling pelicans and cormorants, I know there is most likely a huge school of Pacific herrings, known locally as sardinas (such a beautiful sight to see). They fish by plunge-diving headfirst, with their wings tucked behind their backs, and stunning their prey before they are scooped up. Their big gular pouch is highly elastic and is perfectly suited for fishing. It can hold up to three gallons of water, which it drains before swallowing its prey. The pouch is also highly effective for regulating heat given its elasticity and large surface area.
Reproduction
Nesting ranges from Sinaloa south through Nayarit, Jalisco, and Guerrero, and finally the coastal shores of Oaxaca. They are gregarious birds and nest in colonies.
Nests are a messy but elaborate affair when built in thickets, such as dense stands of mangroves, a platform made of sticks and branches, or a simple version directly on the ground. Nesting typically occurs late fall through early June and is accomplished mostly by the females. Clutch sizes vary but typically consist of two or three oval, chalky white eggs, with both the male and the female sharing incubation and rearing responsibilities. Eggs are incubated under their large, webbed feet for 28- 30 days. The parents feed the young by regurgitating their partially digested catch into the awaiting, gaping beaks. At about 63 days they fledge from the nest and form small groups known as pods. I have never seen a pelican nest, and much to my surprise neither has the expert local guide Cornelio Ramos.
Flight
This to me is the most fascinating aspect of brown pelican behavior. I see them flying in V formations, in single file, and sometimes alone, often skimming just inches above the water’s surface. What appears effortless is actually a remarkable combination of aerodynamic strategies that allow these large birds to travel long distances while conserving energy.
Wave-Slope Soaring
Brown pelicans take advantage of wind generated by ocean waves. As wind pushes up against the face of a wave, it creates a small updraft. Pelicans position themselves in this sweet spot and essentially ride the moving air, reducing the effort required to stay aloft. This technique, known as wave-slope soaring, can reduce their energy expenditure by as much as 60 to 70 percent.
Ground Effect
When flying closer to the water than the length of a single wingspan, pelicans benefit from a phenomenon known as ground effect. A cushion of compressed air forms between the bird’s wings and the water’s surface, creating additional lift and reducing drag. This allows them to glide efficiently with minimal wingbeats, producing the elegant, low-level flight that is so characteristic of the species.
V-Formation Flying
When traveling in groups, pelicans often adopt a V-shaped formation. The wingtips of the lead bird create spirals of rising air that provide lift for the birds behind. By riding these updrafts, trailing pelicans reduce their own energy expenditure and flap their wings less frequently.
But how do they decide who leads? The answer is simple: everyone takes a turn. As the lead bird tires, it drops back into the formation, and another pelican takes its place. In this way, the flock shares the workload, making long-distance travel more efficient for everyone.
Watching a squadron of pelicans glide effortlessly along the coast may look simple, but behind that graceful flight lies a sophisticated understanding of wind, waves, and teamwork that has been refined over millions of years of evolution.
What is a flock of pelicans called?
A squadron, a pod, or a scoop. When pelicans are seen swimming or flying together in an organized formation, they can also be called a fleet.
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Books to Watch For
By Carole Reedy—
Partita by Barbara Kingsolver
(publication date October 6, 2026)
The most anticipated fall read, without a doubt, is Barbara Kingsolver’s Partita.
Kingsolver’s previous novel, Demon Copperhead, entertained and educated readers with its smooth narrative of a remote and forgotten part of the US where the pharmaceutical industry introduced addictive drugs. (To understand the facts of this tragedy, read Patrick Radden Keefe’s The Empire Of Pain.) Kingsolver received accolades around the world for her depiction of a modern-day David Copperfield.
This new novel is the story of a farm girl and her unfulfilled musical talent, class barriers, and love. At the heart of the story, however, is the importance of art and beauty.
Kingsolver herself had the talent to pursue the piano as a career, but when faced with the practicality of a life in music changed her college major to biology. She also had aspirations as a writer and studied journalism. As a child she read Tolstoy and played Bach on the piano.
Noted author Ann Patchett, whose new novel Whistler has just arrived, accompanied by rave reviews, on bookshelves, says of Kingsolver’s latest “She means to save us by telling us stories…She comes closer than anyone else I know.”
Country People by Daniel Mason
(publication date July 7, 2026)
Mason’s North Woods, published in 2024, was, for me, a mesmerizing read covering centuries of the inhabitants of a yellow house in a remote part of Massachusetts.
His latest story takes us on a family voyage to Vermont from California.
It’s described by the publisher as a “joyous, absurd, gorgeously-drawn exploration of marriage, family, friendship, storytelling and how people find connection in an increasingly fragmented world.”
We know Mason as a consummate storyteller that can deliver a story in a masterfully fluent manner.
Ply by Hernan Diaz
(publication date September 29, 2026)
How we loved Diaz’s Pulitzer Prize-winning novel Trust, the story of a “successful” man and his wife told in three parts, the last part putting in perspective the first two in a most shocking way.
Though his previous novels dealt with the past, this one takes us to the distant future and questions the role of technology in our lives. It is a Dickensian-style family drama in addition to being a scientific thriller.
The novel takes place in a US city where the protagonist, an orphan, steals energy to feed the city’s vibrant music scene. This high-risk life shifts when he becomes involved in a scientific project that could change reality itself.
The Dying Light by Anne Cleeves
(publication date October 8)
Few of us will forget the isolation of the pandemic of 2020 for the gift of time that allowed us hours more to read. During the following three years many of us discovered various book series and authors that entertained and allowed us to get through those difficult days.
One such author was Anne Cleeves. Cleeves is a prolific writer, but the most striking aspect of her writing is the characterizations she creates. These people become part of the reader’s life. It may sound corny, but during the pandemic I talked by phone to friends in the US about characters in the novels as though we were discussing our own friends.
Cleeves’ Shetland series became so popular that it was made into a television series. The lure of an unknown part of the world added mystery to the mysteries! Tourists started putting the Shetland Islands on their travel bucket lists.
Cleeves recently introduced the Matthew Venn series (also called the Two Rivers series), which takes place in Devon England, where detective Venn lives with his husband. Again, the magic of these books lies in their characters rather than the plots.
Cleeves knows and understands her characters so well that she seems to describe them from memory rather than imagination.
Agrippa by Robert Harris
(publication date August 27, 2026)
Harris has always been recognized for his ability to combine personal drama and political machinations. His Conclave gripped book lovers as well as movie fans.
In Agrippa we return to the Roman Empire, where there is plenty of drama for writers. After the death of Julius Caesar, the 17-year-old Octavius becomes heir to the throne. His closest friend is Agrippa. For 20 years they rule the empire together.
Agrippa stirs up the past in his memoirs, which he is writing at age 50. Power and friendship: can they coexist? That is the question and theme.
Robert Harris’ books are very readable and offer glimpses into the political yet personal aspects of the histories he writes. I have become a recent fan of this prestigious writer of histories. His Pompeii hooked me as a new fan and follower.
The French Illusion by John Grisham
(publication date September 29, 2026)
Faithful readers to the genre have been reading John Grisham’s legal thrillers since 1991 when The Firm became an overnight sensation, spending 47 weeks on The New York Times best-seller list. I remember vividly when it hit the shelves, touted as different and sketching new material and characters for a novel. Law school admissions may have risen at this time.
Grisham’s latest veers a little off the legal thriller genre, being more an international suspense novel. It’s clear Grisham enjoys reading the spy stories of John Le Carre, Ken Follett, and Robert Ludlum. This is his first attempt in following the “craftsmanship of some of these international suspense novelists.”
This new plot starts with the kidnapping of a newlywed couple in the French countryside, which rapidly turns into an international espionage plot.
The Disappearers by Marlon James
(publication date September 1, 2026)
It would be difficult to forget James’ A Brief History of Seven Killings, which brought James the recognition he deserved when his novel won the Man Booker Prize in 2015. This new story continues in the genre. Again taking place in Jamaica, it begins with eight gay men in Jamaica during the 1980s.
These eight men, actors, are unfamiliar to each other but share the experience of being gay, including the hatred and bigotry they endure. How they handle it varies among them: some try to forget, others embrace their rage, and still others simply vanish.
James’ novels are enormous in every aspect.
Switzy by Emma Cline
(publication date October 9, 2026)
What is a life? What remains when your goals and accomplishments have been realized? These appear to be the unanswerable questions Cline explores in this story of an aging man.
It is quite an original story, probing the depths of human consciousness, “revealing what a man is left with when the accomplishments and compromises that have defined him, and the illusions he’s relied on, vanish.”
The book follows its main character, David, with his thoughts and memories, as he flies to Zurich with stops in Paris, England, etc. The unusualness of the premise is alluring, especially when tackled by a writer as deft as Cline, who we remember for her novel The Girls, which was based on the Charles Manson entourage of the 70s.
The Newer World by Sebastian Barry
(publication date September 8, 2026)
My book club in Mexico City, whose members represent a number of nationalities, enthusiastically embraces any book written by the Irish writer Sebastian Barry. His novels appeal to not only the Irish and Brits, but also to Americans and Mexicans.
Barry is a consummate storyteller. His newest takes place in the 19th century, starting in rural Tennessee where the main character, a Confederate soldier and wanted man, heads for Nashville but finds himself on a detour to Victorian England. It’s a story of how we survive and at what cost along the way.
Exit Party by Emily St. John Mandel
(publication date September 15, 2026)
This timely novel by the noteworthy author of Station Eleven and Sea of Tranquility should gain widespread attention in the literary world this fall.
Starting out in Los Angeles 2031 with the collapse of the US, the story continues not only from a splintered America but also expanding to include Paris and Greece and a colony on the moon.
Story is the lifeblood of a novel, and this year appears to be packed with novels that are faithful to this premise.
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Red Clay Ceramic-producing Maestras of San Marcos Tlapazola
By Amber Dunlap—
For nearly twenty generations, the potters of San Marcos Tlapazola have been hand-crafting comals (flat griddles used to make tortillas) and other cookware from their local supply of iron oxide-rich clay. Their Barro Rojo (Red Clay) ceramics are sought after the world over and a draw for travelers seeking to experience yet another slice of the rich artisanal landscape of Oaxaca’s Central Valley.
Every February, just after the corn harvest, the 300 or so potters of San Marcos Tlapazola (all women) make their way up into the hillsides to expertly select all of the beige- and red-tinged earth they’ll need for the year ahead. It’s a trek that is both grueling but necessary. Under the hot Oaxacan sun and the exposed hillside, they hack at the earth with pickaxes and shovels, scooping up and adding heavy clods of earth to the sacks they’ll eventually tie to their backs and lug back down the mountain.
Once back at their workshops, they soak this collected earth in water, sift it, then knead it, and ultimately lay it out to dry under the sun for many hours, waiting patiently for it to become just the right texture. Once ready, they mix the prepared clay with water to soften it into a buttery smooth consistency and add sand to avoid any cracking during the firing process.
Grabbing a scoop of this now ready clay, the Maestra gets to work. The clay is shaped and transformed with an expert touch, one well-honed since childhood when she likely learned from the chair beside her mother and her mother’s mother. Not a potter’s wheel in sight, she picks up tools of smooth leather, the shell of a gourd, and a dried-out cob of corn to shape and smooth the clay into forms both familiar and fueled by inspiration in the moment. Within minutes a two-handled pot appears or a curved vase with a mouth and nose. It’s as if these flawless forms appear straight out of thin air.
Once the piece has been shaped to the Maestra’s liking, it’s then dipped in a glaze made of red clay and water and set aside to harden and dry for burnishing. Burnishing is yet another astounding piece of this remarkable San Marcos Tlapazola tradition. The smooth river stones used to polish the dried clay pieces are typically passed down from mother to daughter through the generations. If you’re lucky enough to hold one in your hands, it’s possible that you are holding a stone from that Maestra’s original pottery-producing ancestor.
This process is repeated over and over again until a sufficient collection of pots, plates, and platters have been created for a firing.
The firing process is delicate. If a rogue rain shower happens to dampen the wood or the wind that day is roaring a bit too strongly, the entire collection could be ruined. For this reason, many of the Maestras do their firing in the morning hours. They prepare an area of their yard, following a very distinct layering process of first stacked brick or stones, then a metal sheet or bedsprings to create an elevated bed for the pottery to rest on. From there, they add the pottery and surround it with twigs, logs, and pieces of broken pottery before covering it all again with yet more rusted sheet metal. Additional twigs and logs are then layered on top along with cow dung and dry organic matter. Then it’s all set aflame with a match. The pottery fires for about 45 minutes. Once done and the fire has died out, the pieces, hopefully unbroken, are cooled, dusted off, and packaged up for the Maestra’s next trip to market.
This tradition, and this way of life in San Marcos Tlapazola, is one that many of these women are born into and expected to carry on, but it’s one that many, including the Maestra I met, truly find peace and life-giving satisfaction in practicing. That is a sight to see.
How To Experience This Ancestral Red Clay Ceramics Tradition in the Flesh
Tour Option
Join ‘WSE Travels Red Clay Pottery Experience to explore the rich traditions of Macrina Mateo Martínez’s renowned red pottery, also in San Marcos Tlapazola. The experience includes a hands-on workshop from Martinez herself, as well as insights into the village’s vibrant culture. Martinez will share her story of leaving her village and founding a local women’s empowerment co-op. Like all of WSE Travel’s experiences, this isn’t just a tour; it’s a celebration of art, resilience, and community.
Price: $145 USD
Duration: About 6 hours, depart at 9am and return by 3pm
How Often? Wednesday through Sunday weekly
What’s Included?:
– Pre-trip information to educate and prepare you for the experience
– English-speaking guide
– Translations + demonstrations with local food vendors
– Transportation to/from your Oaxaca Hotel
– All meals and snacks (except alcoholic beverages)
– A small gift to take home with you
For more information and to book: http://www.wheresidewalksend.com/travel/oaxaca-red-clay-pottery-tour/
The Do-It-Yourself Option
San Marcos Tlapazola is about an hour and ten-minute drive from Oaxaca City. If getting there by colectivo, you’ll first have to go to Tlacolula and then from there catch a second colectivo or taxi to San Marcos Tlapazola. The colectivos from Oaxaca City to Tlacolula leave from the second-class bus station near the Mercado de Abastos.
Once in San Marcos Tlapazola, you can wander the main street of Matamoros and poke your head inside any open home workshop studios or collectives that are accepting visitors. Though I haven’t been myself, the female-run shop Mujeres del Barro Rojo is said to be a good starting point for your San Marcos Tlapazola adventure.
Alternatively, you could plan to shorten the trip by timing your visit to Tlacolula for its Sunday Market when many of the potters from San Marcos Tlapazola make their way to this market to sell some of their Barro Rojo ceramics. They’re easy to spot by the red clay ceramics laid out in front of them and by the colorful pinafore-style aprons embellished with floral embroidery that they wear.
The benefit of going all the way to San Marcos Tlapazola, however, is that the selection is much bigger and better, as some of their heavier and more elaborate pieces often don’t get carried to market. That and the fact that you just might be lucky enough to witness the clay-making or firing process in action.
Amber Dunlap is a travel writer and the founder of No Maps or Foot Tracks, where she shares off-the-beaten-path guides and deep dives into living traditions, artisan crafts, and community-rooted tourism throughout Mexico and around the world. Read more of her stories at No Maps or Foot Tracks and follow her adventures on IG at @nomapsamber.
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Mexico Water Trivia
By Marcia Chaiken and Jan Chaiken—
Water, water everywhere and many types to enjoy. Here are some facts and personal hints about bodies of water in Mexico.
Lakes
There are 95 freshwater natural lakes in Mexico recognized by the federal government, compared to about 29,000 in the United States. Canada contains more natural lakes than the rest of the world combined.
Lake Chapala in Jalisco is the largest lake in Mexico, but its size shrinks and expands depending on seasonal rainfall. Noted for its temperate year-round climate, it has become a home for many expats from north of the border.
Lake Avandaro in the Valle de Bravo is the go-to weekend retreat for many Chilangos from Mexico City and other Mexicanos. Ringed by mountains with pine forests, it provides opportunities for water sports and hiking.
Lake Patzcuaro is on the itinerary of many bus tours of Mexico. It is surrounded by colonial villages producing beautiful crafts and is home to Isla de Janitzio with souvenir shops lining the path to the top of the island. Visit early in the morning before hordes of tourists hit.
Gulfs
Gulf of Mexico: The name first appeared on a map drawn by a Spanish cartographer in 1544. The body of water was referred to by that name in the writings of explorers earlier than that and was based on the name of the indigenous Mexica (aka Aztecs). Although the shoreline is in both Mexico and the US, Mexico has the longest portion.
Gulf of California: This gulf separates the Baja Peninsula from mainland Mexico. The name California was given in the 16th century and reportedly came from a popular novel published in 1510. It is also known as the Sea of Cortez. A ferry from La Paz in Baja California to Mazatlán across the Gulf started running in 1970. The ferry is not recommended for those subject to seasickness.
Gulf of Tehuantepec: Meaning jaguar hill, this gulf is separated from the Gulf of Mexico by the Tehuantepec isthmus (just called “The Isthmus” in Huatulco). The gulf is infamous among sailors because of its perpetual fierce difficult-to-navigate winds – also called Tehuantepecs. Even driving across the Isthmus in these winds can be a challenge.
The Mexico coastline and lagoons
The coastline is more or less 5,800 miles (9,330 kilometers) long. Most of the west and south coast borders the Pacific Ocean and the Gulf of California. The rest borders the Gulf of Mexico and the Caribbean Sea.
Over 100 coastal lagoons, separated from the open ocean or sea by reefs, islets or sandbars, can be found in states all along the coast. Among the most famous are the brightly colored Laguna de Bacalar in Quintana Roo, the huge refuge for migratory birds Laguna Madre in Tamaulipas, and Las Coloradas – interconnected pink lagoons in the Yucatan. Our personal favorites are the lagoons and Mayan canals that make up the Sian Kaan Biosphere Reserve in the Yucatan. Floating supine down one of the largest canals while staring up at brightly colored birds and remains of Mayan villages is an unforgettable experience.
Rivers
Mexico has about 250 named rivers, compared to about 8,500 in Canada and 250,000 in the United States.
The longest river at about 1,900 miles is the Rio Bravo del Norte (aka the Rio Grande) that forms much of the northern border with the U.S.
The Usumacinta River, named after the howler monkey, is slightly less than 700 miles long and forms part of the border between Mexico and Guatemala. A noisy night spent on the river bank makes clear how it got its name. A mysterious trip down the river in the dawn fog is highly recommended.
You may have your own favorite lake, lagoon, or river – there are so many in Mexico to explore.
Drs. Marcia and Jan Chaiken have been married for 62 years and have published many justice system research reports together.
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