Tag Archives: mexico

Biblioteca Pública: We Build Community

By Ariadna Salazar—

La Biblioteca Pública de San Miguel de Allende offers a wide variety of cultural and educational activities accessible to everyone. It is a cultural hub where you can spend a pleasant time reading, enjoy a conversation with someone new, or simply wander through its spaces and discover all it has to offer.

Since 1958, this nonprofit association has been located at 25 Insurgentes Street. As you explore the building, you will be impressed by its hidden murals and a spacious central courtyard surrounded by arches dating back to the 1700s.
This beautiful building houses four reading rooms with more than 50,000 books in Spanish and English. The collections include fiction, nonfiction, biography, art, history, travel, and much more.

La Biblioteca also includes the Teatro Santa Ana, with seating for 91 people, and the spectacular Sala Quetzal. Month after month, visitors can enjoy a high-quality program featuring theater, film, dance, talks, lectures, and book presentations.

Children and young people are an essential part of this community. They participate in artistic, creative, and reading activities where they are free to express themselves. In the Programming Club, for example, they learn to solve problems using the technological tools available to them.

Adults are also an important part of La Biblioteca’s learning community, participating in music and art classes, as well as activities such as chess and yoga. Many are also dedicated volunteers and active promoters of culture in San Miguel.

Additionally, for students from San Miguel who require financial support, La Biblioteca works to ensure that those enrolled in high school and university are able to complete their studies through its scholarship program.

As a nonprofit organization, La Biblioteca carries out several fundraising activities. The main and best known are the House & Garden Tour and the Bookstore.

The House & Garden Tour offers an exclusive guided walking tour through some of San Miguel’s most beautiful homes and gardens. It takes place every Friday at noon, and tickets can be purchased at the Bookstore.

The Bookstore offers new titles in Spanish and English, as well as used books, helping to generate funds to acquire new books for the reading rooms.

La Biblioteca has been dedicated to building a reading community in San Miguel for more than 70 years. It was founded in 1954 by Canadian Helen Wale, along with other volunteers, with the goal of helping young members of the community learn to read and study languages.

La Biblioteca is your home—and the home of a diverse local and global community that visits daily. Some of the lucky ones become full-time volunteers or donors.

Apply for your membership to borrow books, take classes, and much more. Learn more at http://www.labibliotecapublica.org.

Long Journey Home

a personal essay by Bonnie Lee Black, January 2026—

“What does ‘died’ mean?,” I asked my mother when I was four and my best friend Ruthie, who was five, had just died of leukemia. I’d never known anyone who’d died.

My spirited young mother, who was not in any way spiritual or religious –her whole philosophy of life had been, “When you’re alive, you live; when you die, you’re dead” — made up a glowing story for me:
“Ruthie has gone to a better place,” she said convincingly. “She’s gone to live with God in his home in Heaven, where there is no sickness, no pain, and no tears. God saw that Ruthie – such a good girl! – had been very sick and in pain, so he decided she’d be happier with him. She’ll never be sick again.”

My first thought was, “Lucky Ruthie!” My second was, “How is it that my Mom suddenly believes in God?” Always before, the word God had only been an angry epithet in our house. But since that day – since the day my mother made up that story to console me – I’ve never feared death. Something about it felt profoundly true, even to the four-year-old me: This life on earth is not all there is.

Before she became ill, Ruthie had told me a little bit about God. Being a year ahead of me, she had started Catholic school, so every afternoon after school she painstakingly shared with me what she’d learned that day from the nuns.

“Look up there,” Ruthie instructed me, pointing to the sky, as we sat on her front porch side by side. “See that big cloud? God is behind that cloud, looking down at us. He’s like a loving father watching over us.”

This was news to me, and I found it thrilling. In my Protestant family, which never attended church and where my father was always enraged and often belligerently drunk, the thought of a loving, caring, fatherly God up there somewhere was irresistible. I credit my friend Ruthie for putting me on my spiritual path.

It’s been a long and rocky road, I confess. I’m eighty now; and when I look back on my life, I can clearly see the main turning points on this journey that have led me to where I am today, spiritually speaking.

In my adolescence, when World War III was raging at home in the runup to my parents’ overdue divorce, and I felt desperate for some life guidance, I went to a gospel church in a neighboring New Jersey town with my friend Lindy and her family. Even after Lindy and her family moved away, I continued attending that church, faithfully and hungrily – the Sunday school classes, the morning worship services, the evening youth group meetings, the evening services. I went for the music – Bach in the morning and rousing hymns at night – for the Bible lessons, for the warmth of the people, for the messages of love and peace. I went to escape the strife at home and find a haven with the promise of Heaven.

In this small, white, clapboard church, God seemed real to me. Not cold and remote like the farthest star, but as close and vital as one’s own heartbeat. This God was an all-knowing, all-loving, all-forgiving, ever-present friend, who was worshipped, not with repetitive phrases read from a book, but with simple, spontaneous language spoken from the heart.

So I began a daily habit of waking early to read the Bible and pray before getting ready for school. I spoke to God as if He were a caring parent, asking for guidance, help with my homework, strength for the day, more faith. I applied myself to my schoolwork and became an honor student. I strove to grow wings and rise above the battlefield at home.

The fatal flaw in this rosy self-portrait was my blinkered naivete, which I’ve regretted ever since. When I was nineteen, a much-older, professional man, who was intent on marrying a blond-haired, blue-eyed, naive virgin, and who professed to me the same religious beliefs as mine, charmed me into marrying him. I learned too late that I’d only been a means to an end for him: He wanted something he could not then buy because surrogacy was not yet readily available – a child of his own, a beautiful blond-haired, blue-eyed child “for his mother to raise,” he later told me.

After our divorce and I was given custody of our baby daughter, he took her on a visitation and, along with his aging parents, disappeared.

I saw a lawyer in the office building where I worked, and he counseled me on what to do. At one point he leaned over his desk, cigarette hanging from the side of his mouth, and said, “From now on you’ve got to live like a f*ckin’ nun. He’s probably having you followed.” This man had known my ex-husband, but he didn’t know me. He didn’t know I already lived like a nun.

The FBI agent who was assigned my case told me coldly one day when I visited his office and begged him for news, “You are just a number in our files.”

An elder of my church took me aside one Sunday evening to inform me I could never marry again because our church didn’t recognize divorce. If I did remarry, I’d be “living in sin,” he said. (I immediately thought: I don’t need to bother to get married again to live in sin.) I never returned to that church.

People who knew me and knew my story treated me pityingly, and I hated them for it. Good people who didn’t know me but learned of my story regarded me with suspicion – because, after all, in their world, and according to their beliefs, bad things only happen to bad people.

Every doctor I visited about my severe stomach pain and weight loss tried to prescribe tranquilizers or antidepressants for me, but I refused them all. I chose to remain clear-headed and not drugged into docility. I chose to harness my pain and fury.

And so began my many years of boxing with God. I moved to New York for its promised anonymity, at the same time the Broadway musical, “Your Arm’s Too Short to Box with God,” had opened. Ha! I thought, seething, MY arm’s NOT too short to box with God! My anger toward my God was incendiary. My prayers were vitriolic. HOW COULD YOU?, I shouted between clenched teeth, WHY DID YOU LET THIS HAPPEN TO ME? I WAS A GOOD GIRL! WHAT DID I DO TO DESERVE THIS ANGUISH? WHERE IS MY BABY?! BRING BACK MY BABY!!!

I often considered suicide because the pain of not knowing where and how my daughter was, day after day, month after month, year after year, was unbearable. But I knew that if and when she was ever found, she would need me. I had to go on living – eating, sleeping, working. I had to get through this. My marching orders to myself were, “You must be strong, you must go on!” And through it all I never stopped railing at God – Why?! Why?! Why?! This phase lasted for many years.

In New York I attended Columbia University on full scholarships; I enlarged my mind. In New York I met people of all colors, shapes, sizes, stories, ethnicities, abilities, and religions and had many Jewish friends; they enlarged my heart.

In New York I wrote a book in which I shared my personal story for the first time, and a prominent New York publisher published it. That book found my daughter for me and helped thousands of others who’d experienced similar heartbreak and loss due to parental child abduction.

In New York I learned a life-altering lesson: The God whom I’d been railing at for so many years had used me for good. This seeming tragedy had turned to triumph.

In my fifties I joined the Peace Corps and served for two years as a health and nutrition volunteer working with mothers and children in Gabon, Central Africa. After my Peace Corps service, I went up to Mali, West Africa, and created an economic development project working with Malian women and young girls.

Mali is a predominantly Muslim country, and I came to deeply admire the good, kind, generous, God-loving Muslim people I got to know in the three years I lived there. As part of my morning devotions I read N. J. Dawood’s English translation of the Koran, and I was profoundly moved by the beauty of it.

Ten years ago I retired to the beautiful old small city of San Miguel de Allende in the central mountains of Mexico, and this is where I plan to stay. San Miguel is called el corazon de Mexico – the heart of Mexico. Mexico in its entirety to me has enormous heart, so Mexico has become my heart’s home.

Mexico is a predominantly Catholic country, and I highly respect the Mexican people’s adherence to their religious traditions. But I could no more become a Mexican Catholic than I could have become a Malian Muslim or a Jewish New Yorker. So I ask myself, What am I now?

It seems as if in all my years of grappling with God and stumbling upward along my spiritual mountainous path I’ve come up with my own religion, which is not a religion at all. “Religion” to me denotes manmade dogma, and mine eschews such dogma. I no longer attend church. I cannot honestly repeat the Apostle’s Creed. I do not believe, as most manmade religions do, that women are meant to be subordinate. I do not believe, as most white men do, that white men are superior. I strongly believe all of us are equally valuable and all of us have important roles to play in this life on earth.

But I’ve never stopped praying – not to a big old white guy in the sky tucked, like the Wizard of Oz, behind a cloud, nor to a young Middle Eastern man being tortured to death on a roughly hewn wooden cross, but to what I like to think of as the Great Spirit, the term indigenous Americans use. A benevolent power available to all, beyond description, beyond definition.
I believe in this God because I must. Where else could I possibly put my trust? Men? Money? Political or religious leaders? No. The God I believe in has brought me through hell on earth and taught me so much: Everyone has heartache. Everyone suffers pain and loss. This life is a test, the Koran says; we must just do our best.

I still pray every day. I pray for the things I lack: patience, tolerance, love, understanding, empathy, compassion, strength, fortitude, grace, wisdom, and more. And every day I get just enough of these to last for that day. I give thanks for my many blessings, especially for bringing me to Mexico, where my ashes will be buried on a mountaintop.

I have no fear of death; in fact, I look forward to the next realm, the last stop on this spiritual journey, where my soul will finally be at home. Maybe — who knows? — I’ll even be reunited with Ruthie.

An honors graduate of Columbia University in New York, Bonnie Lee Black is the author of six books, including the memoir SOMEWHERE CHILD about her daughter’s abduction by her father (Viking Press, 1981). Bonnie’s essays have appeared in numerous literary journals, and for the past ten years she has been writing a weekly blog from her adopted home, San Miguel de Allende, Mexico. For more information, please visit: http://www.bonnieleeblack.com

The History of Jazz in San Miguel

By Salomon Maawad—

It all began in August 1979, with an acoustic guitar and an alto sax, on a small, unassuming stage at Mama Mia Restaurant. San Miguel was a small, sleepy town at the time—blessedly quiet, with no buses and very little traffic. Its music scene, however, was about to explode into life.

The Luna family, owners of Mama Mia, were inspired by that first duet and offered me a three-month contract to play every weekend, if I could put together a jazz quartet.

Most of the musicians I knew lived in Mexico City, which at the time was a five- or six-hour commute. Nonetheless, that same year the quartet was formed, and soon we were playing at Mama Mia five days a week. And that is how the Downbeats began their long and amazing career.

The Downbeats included the legendary Marlow Wolf on piano, Chava Martinez on bass, Jorge Leal on drums, and me on saxophones. Over the years, almost one hundred musicians have participated in the band, and many decided to remain in San Miguel, enriching the culture immeasurably. Some became cornerstones of the local music scene—super-talented musicians such as Gil Gutiérrez, Bob Kaplan, José Luis Hopalong, Ken Basman, Toño Lozoya, and Gabriel Hernández. Others went on to different cities where they achieved international fame, including Lila Downs, Magos Herrera, and Janusz Bakum (musical director for Ricky Martin). Still others have passed on and are sorely missed.

In 1994, along with Elena Shoemaker, I created the San Miguel International Jazz Festival. I served as musical director, organizer, and part-time chauffeur. I also accompanied all of the visiting singers and solo artists, including Nora York, Etta Jones, Cynthia Hilts, Denny Berthiaume, Patrice Fisher, Allen Hermann, Bob Montgomery, Tino Contreras, Bob Ackerman, Betty Farmer, Butch Miles, Randy Bernsen, Claire Daly, Mary Ann McSweeney, Henry Cook, Ron Moewes, Dennis Perrier, Eddie Daniels, Tom Aalfs, Brenda Boykin, Tomás Ramírez, John Ronstadt, David “Fathead” Newman, and many more.

The first five years of the festival were incredible—and not just the concerts. After their gigs were over, musicians would head to local bars for endless jam sessions, sometimes going until four in the morning.

As for the Downbeats, the show goes on, with new musicians, new projects, and my original compositions continuing to bring new life and new sounds to the San Miguel music scene. Over the years, I have developed as a composer, and hearing these pieces played live remains a rare treat—one that any jazz lover will savor.

ENCUENTRO NACIONAL DE JAZZ
My latest project is the XXII Encuentro Nacional de Jazz. There will be three concerts, on March 5, 6, and 7. Each concert will be completely different, so you may want to attend all three.

On March 5, there will be a tribute to Brazilian jazz, featuring the Samba Sabrosona Quartet, performing music by Tom Jobim, a key figure in the world of bossa nova. He will perform The Girl from Ipanema, Corcovado, Desafinado, and more.

March 6 will feature my own Salomon Maawad Jazz Quartet. Over a musical career spanning almost five decades, I have been strongly influenced by the legends of jazz, drawing melodies, harmonies, and rhythms from across the musical map. By incorporating the exotic rhythms of avant-garde jazz, I have developed a style that is highly original, musically complex, and pleasing to the ear.

On March 7, internationally acclaimed vocalist Ginger Leigh—whose career spans pop, rock, blues, and jazz—will bring her deep, soulful, power-packed voice (Etta James meets Bette Midler) to San Miguel. Based in Austin, Texas, Ginger leads two bands: a nine-piece jazz variety ensemble (Straight Up with a Ginger Twist) and the Ginger Leigh Band, a six-piece pop-rock ensemble.

Ginger has toured the world for decades, earning acclaim for her distinctive sound and theatrical stage presence. In addition to being a great singer, she puts on one heck of a show. Her performance will celebrate the immortal Billie Holiday and feature some of her most unforgettable songs. With her blues-infused vocal style, weaving together Texas roots, blues heritage, pop sensibility, and jazz mastery, Ginger takes those timeless classics and makes them her own.

Known for her energetic and occasionally theatrical stage antics, Ginger’s performances are tinged with humor and deep emotion—highly entertaining by any measure. This will be her second visit to San Miguel, and it is not to be missed.

All performances will take place at the Angela Peralta Theatre, beginning at 6:00 pm. Tickets are 600 pesos (luneta) and 300 pesos (general admission). Please support these projects. Your attendance will help ensure the continued presence of great music in our wonderful little city.

FOUR ACES: By carving shadows, stars are recovered.

By José Palacios y Román—

Facing a blank sheet of paper, a canvas, metal, or stone to paint or sculpt is always a challenge. For millennia, humankind has expressed its experiences through diverse materials—some ephemeral, others that still endure in museums. It is about leaving traces and memories of the passage of time.

Before the Renaissance, various human groups chose to destroy their precious objects in order to renew them. This was the case prior to the European invasion of Mesoamerica, where every 52 years a new count of time began and life was renewed.
With this in mind, Copalli Art Gallery, in its commitment to supporting and promoting new local talent, presents an exhibition featuring four promising artists. Three of them belong to the millennial generation and share the distinction of being natives of the Oaxacan coast. We are excited to present them and wish them a long and fruitful career in the arts.

They are:
Abisai GUMAG (Pochutla, 2002)
Life is a constant search that he unravels on the canvas. Every path Abisai has taken leads him back to painting: working as a sign painter, decorating mezcal bottles, photographing the sea, creating custom graphic design, and cooking—all to earn a living and be able to paint. He never begins with a preconceived idea. Instead, he observes the canvas, allowing stored emotions to emerge. From one stroke to the next, there is no turning back. He moves to the rhythm of life, absent from ordinary existence in order to create.

Javi VASHER (Bahías de Huatulco, 1999)
He has found his language in water, color, and emotion. Having grown up, lived, and loved Huatulco his entire life, he holds a degree in International Trade and Customs. Through art, he discovered form and expression by portraying both the delicacy and strength of the feminine. His work combines geometry and detail, balance and fluidity, reflecting a deep connection with nature. In each stroke, the flow of water on paper becomes a metaphor for life: unpredictable, luminous, and constantly transforming. He is devoted to watercolor.

Heriberto HERGON (Santa María, Huatulco, 1990)
His connection to nature gives meaning to his art. His life has unfolded entirely in the region. From early childhood, he became an artisan, creating unique and beautiful pieces from seeds, gourds, and wood. This practice bordered on painting and led him to develop skills through drawing and painting workshops. Detail-oriented and meticulous, with a steady hand and enormous patience, he has forged his own path without grand ambitions, simply reflecting his tranquil and transparent spirit through his canvases.

Alex TAPIA (Mexico City)
His art serves as a bridge between tradition and spiritual exploration. He settled in Pinotepa Nacional and has lived in Huatulco for thirty years. A master of martial arts, discipline flows through him as deeply as painting. Guided by mentors, he has developed his own visual language to express his worldview. His oil paintings capture serenity and beauty in the simple and the everyday.

Welcome.
This group exhibition reflects Copalli Art Gallery’s commitment to offering this magnificent space to emerging artists from the coastal region of Oaxaca.

The opening will take place on February 20, 2026, at 6:00 p.m. in Tangolunda, Huatulco. Wine, snacks, and live music will be served. Admission is free.
Follow us on social media: http://www.instagram.com/copalliartgallery

Five Films About Pilgrimages & Journeys

By Alicia Flores—-

1. The Straight Story (1999)
Directed by David Lynch
Based on a true story, this quietly powerful film follows Alvin Straight, an elderly man who travels across the Midwest on a riding lawnmower to reconcile with his estranged brother. Slow, tender, and deeply human, it’s a pilgrimage measured not in miles but in resolve, humility, and love.

2. The Way (2010)
Directed by Emilio Estevez
After the death of his son, an American father (Martin Sheen) walks the Camino de Santiago to honor him. Along the way, grief softens into connection as fellow pilgrims join the path. A modern classic about loss, healing, and the unexpected community that forms on the road.

3. Into the Wild (2007)
Directed by Sean Penn
Based on the true story of Christopher McCandless, this film follows a young man who abandons conventional life to travel across North America in search of meaning. His journey raises timeless questions about freedom, solitude, and what it means to truly belong.

4. Wild (2014)
Directed by Jean-Marc Vallée
Reese Witherspoon stars as a woman who hikes the Pacific Crest Trail alone after personal tragedy. Physical endurance mirrors emotional reckoning in this raw and honest portrayal of a journey undertaken not for adventure, but survival.

5. Tracks (2013)
Directed by John Curran
Inspired by Robyn Davidson’s memoir, Tracks follows a solo trek across 1,700 miles of Australian desert with only camels and a dog for company. The film explores solitude, resilience, and the pull of landscapes that transform those who cross them.

Dry Law, Elections, and a First for Oaxaca

By Alicia Flores—-

From time to time, life in Oaxaca pauses in small but noticeable ways. One of the most familiar signs is the ley seca — the temporary  suspension of alcohol sales — which often accompanies elections and official civic consultations across Mexico. For residents and visitors alike, it can raise a simple question: what exactly is being voted on?

Recently, Oaxaca held its first-ever revocación de mandato, a recall-style public consultation that asked voters whether the current governor, Salomón Jara Cruz, should continue in office. Unlike a general election, this process does not involve choosing new candidates or parties. Instead, it offers citizens an opportunity to express their approval or dissatisfaction with a sitting official midway through their term.

The consultation was organized across a state known for its political and cultural complexity. Oaxaca has more municipalities than any other state in Mexico — over 570 — many governed by distinct local systems and traditions. Coordinating any statewide vote here is no small task, and the results often reflect the diversity of voices rather than a single, unified opinion.

As is customary during electoral processes, a ley seca was put in place to help ensure public order. While the restriction can feel abrupt, it is a long-established part of Mexico’s electoral framework and applies regardless of whether the vote involves local offices, national elections, or civic consultations like this one.

In the end, while a majority of participating voters supported the governor remaining in office, overall turnout did not reach the threshold required for the result to be legally binding. As a result, the consultation did not trigger any immediate change in government.

Even so, first-time processes matter. They set precedents, reveal political undercurrents, and invite broader participation in public life. In a state as varied and decentralized as Oaxaca, the significance of such moments often lies not in dramatic outcomes, but in the signals they send — and the conversations they begin.

Para los Animales, For the Animals

By Sudhir Amembal—

San Miguel de Allende is often celebrated as one of the most beautiful small cities in the world. Its cobblestone streets, well-preserved Spanish colonial architecture, and arts scene draw admiration from residents and visitors alike. Just as remarkable is its strong sense of community, reflected in the dedication of both locals and expatriates who support a wide range of not-for-profit organizations.

Yet, behind this beauty lies a sobering reality. The city faces a persistent crisis of stray and abandoned animals, especially dogs. Every day, countless dogs struggle to survive on the streets, exposed to traffic, harsh weather during summer rains and winter nights; and, too often, human indifference. They roam hungry, thirsty, sick, and frightened — their eyes silently pleading for compassion and care. While dogs are the most visible victims, the number of homeless cats continues to grow, though they remain largely unseen.

Fortunately, San Miguel is also home to several animal welfare organizations working tirelessly to change this narrative. These groups rescue, rehabilitate, foster, and rehome abandoned animals, while also conducting sterilization programs that reduce suffering at its source. Their mission balances urgent aid with long-term prevention, offering both rescue and hope.

My own journey in animal welfare began in 1974. After years of involvement in India and the U.S., my wife and I moved to San Miguel in 2000, where I co-founded a local animal welfare organization. After a period away, upon returning, I reconnected with the animal welfare community and quickly recognized the potential for even greater impact through unity and collaboration. That realization led to the creation of Para Los Animales in July of last year.

Para Los Animales is a collaborative platform that amplifies the voices and work of seven dedicated partners: Dogs Without Borders Foundation, Esperanza Equina, Fundación México con el Corazón Nutriendo Almas, Lucky Dogs Club House, Rosey’s Wish, The Balam Foundation, and Yo Amo Animalitos SMA. Each operates independently, yet together they have

performed thousands of sterilizations and have rescued and rehomed more than 2,200 animals. Their results are a testament to their compassion and persistence. While six partners focus primarily on dogs and cats, Esperanza Equina provides sanctuary and care for horses in need.

Our mission at Para Los Animales is simple: to support, promote, and fund our partners. We connect them through a private group chat where leaders exchange ideas, coordinate efforts, and share resources. We also host regular meetings that encourage collaboration and strengthen our shared mission. To promote their work, our newsletters highlight each organization through in-depth articles, interviews, and a community directory linking readers directly to our partners’ websites. The widely distributed newsletters strive to create lasting positive change in the lives of animals throughout our community.

We also provide financial assistance to our partners, both through direct funding and by mobilizing community support via our newsletters and website. The feedback we receive from our partners speaks volumes about our impact:
“Thank you for bringing unity and hope to our community.”
“Grateful to be part of a group with a common goal—for the animals.”
“Since PLA came into my life, I’ve enjoyed advocacy work a hundred times more.”

Looking ahead, we will step up our activities to continue to support, promote, and fund our partners as they continually strive to alleviate—and where possible, eliminate—the pain, misery and suffering of the city’s most vulnerable animals: dogs, cats and horses.

You can lend your support by visiting:
http://www.paralosanimales.org, where you will find direct links to each of our partner organizations. We urge you to dig deep into your pockets to provide them with the financial resources they need; for together, we can make San Miguel de Allende not only beautiful in sight, but also in spirit — for every living being who calls it home.

Sudhir Amembal may be contacted at sudhir@amembalandassociates.com

 

The Most Beautiful Churches in SMA Centro

By Michael Solof—

It happens all the time. You’re new in town and want to see something special, or maybe you simply have a couple of hours to fill and feel like exploring somewhere different. That’s where this little walking tour comes in.

Today, we’ll visit four of the most beautiful and historically significant churches in San Miguel de Allende, all located within a few blocks of Centro. Along the way, we’ll touch on their architectural styles, histories, and why they continue to matter to the life of the city.

San Miguel de Allende is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, renowned for its well-preserved colonial architecture and striking religious buildings. Let’s begin at the heart of it all.

The Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel

The Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel is the city’s most iconic structure. The original church dates back to the early 17th century, though it underwent major renovations and expansion in the late 19th century. Its dramatic neo-Gothic façade was redesigned by local architect Zeferino Gutiérrez, who reportedly drew inspiration from European Gothic cathedrals.

The church is constructed from pink cantera, a volcanic stone widely used throughout the city and valued for both its durability and warm tonal variations. This material has become closely associated with San Miguel’s architectural identity.

Inside, visitors will find stained-glass windows, soaring arches, religious artworks, and impressive bell towers that dominate the skyline. Today, the Parroquia is one of the most photographed and recognizable churches in Mexico.

Over the years, the Parroquia has also accumulated its share of local legends and ghost stories — a common fate for historic churches. These tales belong more to popular imagination than documented history, but they add another layer to the building’s mystique, especially when seen at dusk.

Iglesia de la Inmaculada Concepción (Las Monjas)

Located near the Jardín Principal, the Iglesia de la Inmaculada Concepción— often referred to as Las Monjas—is one of the city’s architectural highlights.

Construction began in the mid-18th century, and the church is a fine example of Mexican Baroque architecture. Its most striking feature is the dome, which was inspired by European cathedral design and rises elegantly above the surrounding streets. The façade and dome glow beautifully in the late afternoon light, thanks again to the use of pink cantera stone.
Inside, the church contains richly decorated altarpieces covered in gold leaf, along with artwork created by local craftsmen. The church is dedicated to the Virgin of the Immaculate Conception, reflecting strong Spanish colonial influence in both its architecture and devotional focus.

Each year, the Feast of the Immaculate Conception is celebrated here, drawing a primarily local congregation and reinforcing the church’s role as a living part of San Miguel’s religious life.

Templo de San Francisco
(Corner of San Francisco and Juárez)

The Templo de San Francisco is among the oldest churches in the city. Construction began in 1683 under the direction of Franciscan friars, who played a central role in spreading Christianity throughout the region.

The exterior reflects restrained Baroque design, combining pink stone with white stucco for a striking but understated contrast. Inside, however, the church is far more ornate, featuring a beautifully crafted altar, decorative ceilings, and religious artwork.

While the church itself sits within the bustle of Centro, nearby courtyards and surrounding streets offer quieter moments for reflection. Each year, the Feast of Saint Francis is celebrated in early October, marking one of the church’s most important annual events.

Templo del Oratorio de San Felipe Neri
(Insurgentes 12)

The Oratorio de San Felipe Neri is an excellent example of 18th-century Baroque architecture paired with deep civic and religious significance.

Founded by the Oratorians—a religious order devoted to preaching, education, and community service—construction began in 1748 and was completed in 1753. The church’s elegant façade, carved from local pink stone, features intricate detailing that highlights the craftsmanship of the period. Its bell tower makes it a prominent landmark along Calle Insurgentes.

Inside, visitors will find a finely detailed altar, religious icons, and murals depicting saints and biblical scenes. The Oratorians were instrumental in establishing educational institutions in San Miguel, and their influence extended well beyond the church walls.

The Feast of San Felipe Neri is celebrated each May, maintaining the Oratorio’s role as an active center of worship and community life.

A City of Churches

The churches scattered throughout San Miguel de Allende offer a window into Mexico’s layered history—colonial ambition, religious devotion, artistic expression, and everyday life unfolding over centuries. While it would take weeks to visit them all, these four provide a rich introduction, all within a short walk of Centro.

Enjoy your travels—and take your time.

Michael Solof leads SMA Adventure Hound, a group which takes locals and newcomers to brunches and dinners at different restaurants every week and he also offers classes in the art of smartphone photography. You can contact him at WhatsApp +1-443-310-9214 for more info and to reserve.

Zen and the Art of MotorMind Maintenance

By Kim Malcolm—

For some reason, I thought a weeklong silent Zen meditation retreat — called “sesshin” — would be an important life experience. And it was, although maybe not in the ways I expected. I certainly chose a good one. It took place at Mar de Jade, a gorgeous resort on a secluded beach north of Puerto Vallarta. The priest, Norman Fisher, was once the head of the San Francisco Zen Center, and understands the “western,” non-Zen mind. The description of the retreat welcomed “beginners.” I don’t have a Zen practice, but I’ve read books about Zen, so I was a beginner, right?

I arrived at Mar de Jade in the early evening of the first day, just in time for a brief orientation and our first “zazen”– seated meditation. There were about 60 of us in the meditation hall where I found a square mat on the floor with my name on it. Following the lead of those around me, I sat down on the mat and closed my eyes. I began breathing, believing the evening would bring internal quiet and the first in a series of small but significant revelations. This was a wrong belief. My mind was the opposite of peaceful and my only revelation was that the excruciating pain in my hips and back would not be tolerable for six more days. Never mind, I thought. I was there to learn, not to be comfortable.

Each day after that had an identical schedule. Routine sometimes causes me to break out in hives, but, strangely, I enjoyed the predictability. We were awakened at 5am to the sound of clacking wooden sticks. The day began with light exercise followed by eight 40-minute sessions of silent meditation, a 2-hour work assignment, dharma talks, prostrations, and three excellent vegetarian meals. Besides the wooden sticks, the sounds of each day were gongs, bells, crashing ocean waves, birds and the low rumble of a banda band playing at the other end of the beach. We chanted, but we were otherwise mostly silent.

It didn’t take long for me to realize that this retreat was not going to be warm and fuzzy. Perhaps, I thought, it is hard to make friendly connections when no one is talking and your homies are working to accept the fact of universal suffering. Still, the feeling of sobriety surprised me. I’d read Norman Fisher’s book about Zen practice, which described the objectives of bodhisattvas — our Zen muses — as generosity and joyful engagement. I didn’t see much of either from the other participants. For the sake of not complaining, I will spare you the details.

A little frustrated with the prospect of a week of somber, I was determined to continue so I could understand a little about Zen Buddhism and enjoy the beach. Also, there were no refunds LOL. Hoping to avoid feeling too somber myself, I began giving little notes to people. “Thank you for playing the gong for us this week.” “I love your blouse.” “I like sitting behind you because your posture is perfect.” During our free time in the afternoon, I went swimming in the warm ocean and looked for shells on the beach.

After three days of monkey mind during every one of our meditation sessions, I raised the issue of somber at my brief meeting with our priest. “Because of the Bodhisattva’s path,” I said, “I was expecting a feeling of warmth and caring.” He gently explained that Zen practice is one of austerity and many come to it who are trying to get through life’s challenges (I apologize if I am not precisely reporting the content or spirit of his words). He knew that I was the only participant who did not have a Zen practice and mentioned that even Zen practitioners don’t normally attend a weeklong sesshin who haven’t first attended several one or two day silent retreats. Um, apparently reading a few books didn’t even qualify me as a Zen beginner. “Are you ok?” he asked. I replied that yes I actually was, but I didn’t say I was ok partly because of Roman.

Roman is Mar de Jade’s pastry chef. He lives in the village near the resort and makes breads and desserts for 100 people every day. My work assignment each day was to help Roman, and I loved my job. Cutting strawberries and rolling out dough for two hours cleared my mind of the racket it produced during our meditation sessions. Roman got me through the week. Although we weren’t supposed to talk and I don’t speak much Spanish anyway, it was obvious that Roman is generous and joyfully engaged — just like a Bodhisattva.

“Before enlightenment, chop wood and haul water. After enlightenment, chop wood and haul water.” — Buddhist saying

Kim Malcolm is a retired U.S. citizen and author based in San Miguel de Allende. Having traveled to 73 countries, she brings a global perspective to her writing, which often explores culture, place, and personal experience, with many essays rooted in her life in Mexico.

Follow her blog Camino Milagro: http://www.kimmie53.com

Sanjuaneros: Up to a Month Away from Home, with a Promise to See the Virgin

By Estefanía Camacho—-

Cihualpilli, also known as the Virgin Mary in her invocation of the Immaculate Conception, whose image is housed in the Cathedral-Basilica of Our Lady of San Juan de los Lagos in Jalisco, receives up to seven million pilgrims each year. In this representation, the Virgin “condenses the meaning that precedes motherhood,” as Felipe Gaytán Alcalá explains in his book Las semánticas de lo sagrado (The Semantics of the Sacred).

To get there, the so-called sanjuaneros (believers who set out from the Bajío region toward San Juan de los Lagos) walk approximately 80 kilometers over a period of nine to twelve days. Some depart from the Parish of Saint Anthony of Padua in San Miguel de Allende, others from Querétaro or San Luis Potosí, and those coming from farther away leave from Aguascalientes, adding up to a total distance of 200 kilometers or more.

They set out in late January. In 2026, they departed on January 21 from the well-known “Y,” an intersection formed by a famous roundabout in León, through which other pilgrims from nearby cities also pass. “I’m leaving from the Y,” they notify one another in a Facebook group of nearly 84,000 members, where they share everything from announcements to form departure groups in their hometowns to photos from the journey, weather advice, and, above all, blessings for the road.

In 2026, the passage of approximately 350,000 travellers through the state of Guanajuato is expected, a place referred to as “pilgrim transit territory,” according to Luis Antonio Güereca Pérez, the state coordinator of Civil Protection for the Secretariat of Security and Peace of the State of Guanajuato. These figures have been repeated over the past two winters, although the number, he says, has been declining.

“I should tell you that before 2020, before the pandemic, the number of pilgrims was much higher: around 450,000 to nearly 500,000 people passing through the state. However, when the pandemic hit and all this type of activity was suspended, something happened: the rhythm or the motivation was lost. We don’t know exactly what occurred, but we haven’t been able to recover the large numbers we used to have,” he tells me in an interview.

Not everyone stopped during the pandemic. That is the case of Paty, a 44-year-old woman who lives in León. She has made this pilgrimage for 30 years. The first time she went, she was 14. She kept going and never interrupted her visits after one of her children fell ill frequently and she asked the Virgin for his health. “Since then, he hasn’t gotten sick,” she says. That was 17 years ago.

“I promised that if my son didn’t get sick again, I would never stop going.” So, during one of the pandemic years, when there were very few pilgrims, she went with her daughter, without many supplies, because there was no one selling food or lighting the way at night with flashlights. They got lost.

“My daughter’s feet started bleeding halfway along the route. We stopped, and we got lost. Then the coyotes showed up. One of them was about to attack us. My daughter lit the way with her cellphone so I could throw a stone, but there wasn’t just one. There were about ten.”

They had to jump into a ditch. “The little Virgin is very miraculous,” she recalls, describing how they were able to see a military barracks nearby. From there, some personnel fired at the coyotes to scare them off and helped Paty and her daughter out of the ditch.

“Sometimes people don’t even have money for bus fare,” the matriarch of the Quiroz Aguilar family tells me. She has been a devotee for approximately 50 years, but now she offers food to pilgrims passing through on the night of January 23. She recalls that when she first began making the pilgrimage, people endured many hardships — cold, hunger, sleep deprivation, and exhaustion, and it was difficult to find water or food. That is why she wanted to offer some relief.

She offers her home —“tu casa,” as Mexicans say when we speak of our own home and offer it to a stranger— as a place of rest for approximately 40 people.

“They bathe here, we make hot chocolate at night so they can fall asleep, and for food, well, we give them carnitas, salsa, beans, rice, noodles, potatoes. I mean, everything we can, whatever we’re able to help with.”

In addition to offering her home as a place to spend the night, they also go out onto the route in a pickup truck to transport food. So that pilgrims do not have to stop and lose time, they prepare bagged lunches and hand them out to those who pass by. “Sometimes more people come, sometimes fewer, but everything gets eaten,” she explains, referring to the roughly 50 kilograms of food she prepares, not counting the 40 liters of salsa she cooks with the help of her grown children and now her daughters-in-law.

Throughout the year, they save together to be able to give away this food, which amounts to an expense of approximately 15,000 pesos, she confides.

Her altruistic work has brought her public recognition, to the point that she has appeared in television interviews, although María Concepción Quiroz (her full name) does not like to boast about her efforts.

According to the state coordinator of Civil Protection for the Secretariat of Security, the issues they pay closest attention to include traffic accidents on the highway, food poisoning, people who become lost, occasional fights, and elderly pilgrims.

This time, Civil Protection officially launched the coordinated operation among authorities from Friday, January 9, through February 5, when travellers stop passing through Guanajuato. Personnel from the Guanajuato Ministry of Health, the Red Cross (through its local chapters), state firefighters, and the National Guard are also present.

On January 20, 2026, the eve of the departure of most believers, the forecast indicated that the lowest temperature would occur at seven in the morning on the 21st, dropping to 9 degrees Celsius.
This January, pilgrims walked illuminated by lamps that provided enough light along the path, they crossed train tracks, sometimes alongside a stationary train, detoured around fields of maguey that lengthened the route, and walked for long stretches next to high-speed roads, where freight trucks sped past, often in blind spots. Some travelers coming from the State of Mexico spent up to a month away from home, according to television reports.

Arrival in San Juan de los Lagos
Ideally, pilgrims arrive on February 2, which coincides with the celebration of Candlemas. The Candelaria is a popular religious celebration that commemorates the Presentation of Jesus at the Temple, the Virgin’s purification after childbirth, and the Virgin of Candelaria, another Marian devotion. Tradition in Mexico also dictates that whoever ate Rosca de Reyes on January 6 and found the small figurine (representing Baby Jesus) must offer tamales and atole to the rest. However, the Immaculate Conception is also venerated in May, on August 15, and on December 8, although the longest pilgrimage takes place in mid-January.

While San Juan de los Lagos awaits the arrival of tens of thousands, the Cathedral-Basilica (the country’s second-most visited Marian sanctuary, after the Basilica of Guadalupe in Mexico City) is already hosting processions and dances. All of this is done to honor a figure measuring just 33 centimeters and weighing over 300 grams, adorned with eighteenth-century Baroque-style ornamentation –which is why Paty calls her with love “little virgin”. The Virgin, made from corn-pith paste, was crafted in workshops in Pátzcuaro, Michoacán.

According to testimonial records from 1623, the Virgin performed her first miracle by restoring the life of a young trapeze artist who had reportedly died after falling from a swing.

Estefanía Camacho is a freelance Mexican journalist working across media and digital magazines. She is a specialist in gender, SMEs, economics, and business.