Tag Archives: Oaxaca Coast

A Day at Playa San Agustín: Snorkeling, Seafood & Beach Snacks

By Julie Etra—

San Agustín has long been our favorite beach for snorkeling, watching marine life, and lingering over an early seafood lunch. It’s one of the few places where spending the entire day feels effortless. You can get there by driving: it is 13 km from the turnoff just west of the airport. The road in April 2026 remained partially paved with ‘washboard’ surface in some areas but nothing intimidating and I am fine driving it alone. One can also hire a taxi but make sure you negotiate a round-trip fare and time as you are unlikely to find one-way service given its location. Phone service is intermittent or nonexistent depending on your plan, and although Wi-Fi is available for 50 pesos, power outages are common. You can also take a water taxi or sign up with one on the larger tour boats.

We follow the tides, although this reef is not as shallow as Playa La Entrega, or Riscalillo, so avoiding low tides is not as critical. Our now favorite restaurant was selected for its location, structure, and amenities, being a bit east of the more congested palapas closer to the reef, and with the high roof providing great ventilation and spectacular views from the second story. Shade for the car, showers and bathrooms are additional benefits. And food? Our limited dining experience at three different restaurants at this bay led us to believe that the menus are pretty similar, so this was a minor factor in selecting this particular palapa.

The extensive menu features seafood and fish (surprise!) in various shapes, forms, and flavors. Fish is prepared in a variety of ways such as: a la diabla (guajillo, pasilla, and chiles de árbol), a la plancha (on the grill), in mojo de ajo (sauteed in butter and garlic), and a la talla (butterflied with spices). Dorado (mahi mahi), corvina (corvina rayada), barillete (skipjack), and mojarra are typically available, but ask first. The mojarra served here is often farm-raised tilapia, which I find pretty flavorless. Don’t forget langosta (Mexican lobster, which lacks the claws of its Atlantic relative), or huachinango (red snapper), cooked whole with all the garnishes, a large meal for several people. Shrimp dishes include cocktails, which are a bit sweet since the cocktail sauce is prepared with ketchup, and large shrimp salads accompanied with sliced avocado and tomato.

Aguachile is similar to ceviche but is marinated for less time and is typically made with shrimp rather than fish. This is my favorite restaurant dish. Guacamole, black beans, and rice are all standard fare. All orders come with a basket of tostadas, saltines, and a variety of bottled salsas. Don’t forget to ask for the salsa casera, homemade and fresh in addition to the pico de gallo accompanying your order. Pulpo, or octopus, is also on the menu, but I can’t bear to eat these highly intelligent cephalopods. There are a few meat dishes, such as arrachera (flank steak), but nope—you won’t find hamburgers or hot dogs.

When we first started frequenting the palapa restaurants we were surprised by the indifference of the owners and staff to the beach vendors passing along the perimeter. This is carefully controlled, with all vendors requiring licenses, and only entering the premises with the permission of the owners. Vendors offer a variety of wares and souvenirs, from wooden spoons and other wood carvings, to T-shirts, hats, bathing suits, jewelry, and keychains. Services, such as massages, trenzas (braiding) and temporary tattoos are available. We have never found the vendors to be overly aggressive at San Agustín as opposed to those in Los Cabos, from which we fled 18 years ago.

And FOOD. There are the cacahuate (peanut) vendors, pepita (pumpkin seeds) vendors, paletas (popsicles), bolis (icy fruit treats), pay de queso (cheese pie), pay de elote (cornbread) from the Isthmus of Tehuantepec, tamales, elote (corn on the cob, Mexican style), platanos fritos (fried bananas) with lechera y/o crema (condensed milk and/or cream) and coffee. Ostiones (oysters) on the half shell, a half or full dozen, and even on occasion mejillones (mussels), harvested fresh and locally, are frequently offered.

My all-time favorite beach snacks—a close tie with the plátanos fritos—are the molotes. These are deep-fried mashed plantains shaped into pastry-like parcels and filled with either cream cheese (aka Philadelphia) to appease the tourists, or more traditionally with quesillo, the tasty Oaxacan cheese. Delicious and filling, order them with lechera and crema, and enjoy the extra sweetness.

Deep Connection: A guide to Huatulco’s Liquid Landscapes

By Nancy Reyes—

A visit to Huatulco offers beautiful beaches and spectacular bays. Whether you’re looking to surf, snorkel, dive, fish, or explore Oaxaca’s rich cultural traditions, there are countless ways to experience the region. Here are a few ideas to help you make the most of your next visit.

Surfing
With warm water year-round, Huatulco is an excellent destination for surfers of all levels. For beginners, Playa La Bocana offers gentle, consistent waves that provide a comfortable environment for learning. More experienced surfers often head to Playa Mojón or Barra de la Cruz, located about 30 minutes down the coast, where larger and more challenging waves can be found.

Surf lessons and board rentals are available in Barra de la Cruz.

Surf trips can also be arranged through Gil at Café Surf: www.huatulcosurftrip.com

Diving & Snorkeling
Huatulco National Park protects one of the most important marine ecosystems on the Oaxacan coast. Coral formations, rocky reefs, mangroves, and abundant marine life make it a popular destination for both divers and snorkelers. Here, you can witness the underwater whims of the Pacific—look for the sea turtles, rays and a kaleidoscope of tropical fish.

Whether you’re exploring shallow reefs or venturing farther offshore, the park is an opportunity to experience the region’s underwater biodiversity firsthand.

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Fishing
Sport fishing has long been part of life on the Oaxacan coast. Half-day and full-day excursions are available throughout Huatulco, ranging from local fishing boats to fully equipped sport-fishing yachts. The summer months are particularly exciting for catching Marlin and Sailfish.

When booking a trip, consider choosing operators that follow sustainable fishing practices and respect local marine conservation efforts.

My Top Three Huatulco Water Experiences:

San Agustin Bay Snorkeling
This bay is my top choice for those seeking raw, untouched beauty. Located within the Huatulco National Park, it protects a vital marine ecosystem where the coral formation and rocky reefs are remarkably accessible. San Agustin Bay is located a 40-minute drive from Huatulco’s Hotel district.

Sunrise at La Bocana
One of the best ways to begin your day is catching the early morning sun at Playa La Bocana. It is a vital coastal ritual that allows you to enjoy the water before the midday heat. If you surf, bring your board. Breakfast at one of the beachfront restaurants rounds out the experience.

Copalitilla Waterfalls
Go beyond the beach and visit the Copalitilla Waterfalls. It’s totally worth it! These spectacular, crystal-clear series of cascading waterfalls are surrounded by a tropical jungle of towering ceiba and mahogany trees, orchids, lacey ferns and wild cacao plants. The best time to visit is from November to May. If you are visiting during the rainy season be careful with washed out roads and muddy water.

Practical Tips for Travelers

Booking: Use trusted sources, review the contact information, reviews from other guests. The Secretary of Tourism recommends using accredited tour guides and advises avoiding services offered on public roads. For tourist assistance during your visit to Oaxaca, contact:

Tourist Protection Center: 951 5021200 ext. 1204.
Emergency Numbers: (911) Green Angels (078).

Reservation and cancellation fees. Carefully review the fees for the service you are hiring. In some cases, services do not accept cancellations or refunds. It is suggested that you try to plan ahead your adventures.

Weather conditions. Review weather and respect notices of closed roads or beaches, especially during the rainy season.

Stay Hydrated. Drink water and limit alcohol consumption. Schedule outdoor activities during the early morning or late afternoon hours to avoid exposure to midday sun. In cases of overheating, a cold shower is recommended as the fastest way to bring down your body temperature.

And don’t forget your camera. As a recent Bad Bunny song reminds us, we often wish we had taken more pictures. Huatulco provides plenty of moments worth remembering.

Nancy Reyes, was born in Mexicali, holds a Language Sciences PhD, blends research and storytelling to bridge the profound connections between language and Mexico’s layered cultural identity.

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Masters of Flight: The Brown Pelicans of Oaxaca’s Coast

By Julie Etra—

Brown pelicans (Pelecanus occidentalis) are a common and delightful sight along Mexico’s Costa Chica. I never tire of watching them swoop and glide effortlessly along the coastline, skimming just above the waves as if gravity barely applies to them.
Brown Pelican Basics.

Taxonomy
Based on fossil records, they have been around for at least 30 million years but have remained morphologically and physiologically unchanged. Their seemingly bulky body is perfectly suited to the coastal ecosystems in which they reside, including their feeding habits. Although references vary there are five to seven species of pelican worldwide. The Oaxacan coast is unusual because two subspecies may be found here: the California brown pelican (P. o. californicus) and the Eastern brown pelican (P. o. carolinensis), although most of the birds seen locally are believed to be P. o. carolinensis. Their differences are subtle, so next time you see one pay attention. They rarely venture more than 20 miles out to sea or far inland and are non-migratory.

They are relatively uniform in appearance, with of course the large white pelican being the exception (this is a fresh or brackish water species). They typically live 15-30 years in the wild although mortality is high in the first few years of life and are sexually mature at three- five years of age. Populations have rebounded dramatically from the brink of near extinction due to the pesticide DDT, which weakened the shells of their eggs, and was banned in the United States in 1972. Today their numbers are estimated to exceed 370,000.

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Feeding
Brown pelicans primarily eat fish, particularly sardines and herrings but also an occasional crustacean, egg, or amphibian. When I head out to snorkel at Playa La Entrega and see circling pelicans and cormorants, I know there is most likely a huge school of Pacific herrings, known locally as sardinas (such a beautiful sight to see). They fish by plunge-diving headfirst, with their wings tucked behind their backs, and stunning their prey before they are scooped up. Their big gular pouch is highly elastic and is perfectly suited for fishing. It can hold up to three gallons of water, which it drains before swallowing its prey. The pouch is also highly effective for regulating heat given its elasticity and large surface area.

Reproduction
Nesting ranges from Sinaloa south through Nayarit, Jalisco, and Guerrero, and finally the coastal shores of Oaxaca. They are gregarious birds and nest in colonies.
Nests are a messy but elaborate affair when built in thickets, such as dense stands of mangroves, a platform made of sticks and branches, or a simple version directly on the ground. Nesting typically occurs late fall through early June and is accomplished mostly by the females. Clutch sizes vary but typically consist of two or three oval, chalky white eggs, with both the male and the female sharing incubation and rearing responsibilities. Eggs are incubated under their large, webbed feet for 28- 30 days. The parents feed the young by regurgitating their partially digested catch into the awaiting, gaping beaks. At about 63 days they fledge from the nest and form small groups known as pods. I have never seen a pelican nest, and much to my surprise neither has the expert local guide Cornelio Ramos.

Flight
This to me is the most fascinating aspect of brown pelican behavior. I see them flying in V formations, in single file, and sometimes alone, often skimming just inches above the water’s surface. What appears effortless is actually a remarkable combination of aerodynamic strategies that allow these large birds to travel long distances while conserving energy.

Wave-Slope Soaring
Brown pelicans take advantage of wind generated by ocean waves. As wind pushes up against the face of a wave, it creates a small updraft. Pelicans position themselves in this sweet spot and essentially ride the moving air, reducing the effort required to stay aloft. This technique, known as wave-slope soaring, can reduce their energy expenditure by as much as 60 to 70 percent.

Ground Effect
When flying closer to the water than the length of a single wingspan, pelicans benefit from a phenomenon known as ground effect. A cushion of compressed air forms between the bird’s wings and the water’s surface, creating additional lift and reducing drag. This allows them to glide efficiently with minimal wingbeats, producing the elegant, low-level flight that is so characteristic of the species.

V-Formation Flying
When traveling in groups, pelicans often adopt a V-shaped formation. The wingtips of the lead bird create spirals of rising air that provide lift for the birds behind. By riding these updrafts, trailing pelicans reduce their own energy expenditure and flap their wings less frequently.

But how do they decide who leads? The answer is simple: everyone takes a turn. As the lead bird tires, it drops back into the formation, and another pelican takes its place. In this way, the flock shares the workload, making long-distance travel more efficient for everyone.

Watching a squadron of pelicans glide effortlessly along the coast may look simple, but behind that graceful flight lies a sophisticated understanding of wind, waves, and teamwork that has been refined over millions of years of evolution.

What is a flock of pelicans called?
A squadron, a pod, or a scoop. When pelicans are seen swimming or flying together in an organized formation, they can also be called a fleet.

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