Tag Archives: Oaxaca Coast

November in Huatulco

By Britt Jarnryd—

By November, Huatulco is beginning to welcome back its winter visitors. Restaurants and beaches are getting busier, familiar faces are returning, and the town is settling into another season.

But at El Sueño Zapoteco/A.C. Bacaanda Foundation, our work continues year-round.

The beginning of the school year in August and September is always our busiest period. We welcome and train new community educators participating in our Smart Rural School program. Hundreds of iPads must be cleaned, updated and programmed. Equipment and internet connectivity are checked, and teachers receive training in technology and our Spanish, mathematics, reading and writing programs.

By November, the school year is well underway, and our focus shifts to supporting educators in their classrooms. Our team continues to visit rural communities, some more than three hours from Huatulco, providing teacher training and educational guidance. We also meet with parents because their involvement is essential to their children’s education.

Our Continuing My Dream scholarship program is also in full swing. This year, we are supporting 26 students from rural communities as they pursue their high school education. Each receives financial assistance for enrollment, uniforms, shoes, school supplies, an iPad, transportation and meals.

Beyond this practical support, students receive mentoring in mathematics, English, study habits, emotional and social development, community projects and spelling. Our goal is to help them develop the skills and confidence they need to navigate both academic and personal challenges.

Alongside our educational programs, we continue organizing fundraising events, welcoming volunteers and donors, and developing new projects.

While Huatulco prepares for another busy tourist season, we remain focused on ensuring that growing up in a rural community does not limit a child’s opportunities to learn, grow and build a better future.

But we cannot build this dream alone. Every donation, every volunteer and every person who shares our mission helps us reach more children and young people.

To those who have supported us over the years, thank you for walking alongside us. And to everyone returning to Huatulco this season, we welcome you back with open arms and a special invitation: come and be part of this dream.

First Morning in Huatulco: The Map, The Mirror and The Mind

By Randy Jackson—

Beyond a certain age, it becomes strikingly clear how much our memories define who we are, or who we think we are. What we remember, whether true or false, ends up defining us. Memory is a complex and fascinating faculty, and understanding even a few of its features helps us better understand how we make sense of the world.

If you can imagine awakening from a deep blackout sleep, one in which your brain needs to reboot, you would have three profound questions: Where am I? Who am I? And who (the hell) are you? At that moment, you really need your memory to perform three different functions. These three functions are handled differently with varying degrees of accuracy and reliability within your cranial complex. These are: Geographical Memory to know where you are. Autobiographical Memory to recall who you are. And Facial Memory to recognize others.

Geographical Memory

As a seasonal resident, sometimes waking on the first morning in Huatulco results in a brief but sudden shift in orientation. That felt shift seems to be the result of my brain recognizing the familiar bedroom surroundings of our place in Huatulco, while realizing I’m not in Calgary anymore. And although I’m sure no neurologist would ever describe it this way, it seems like the geographical memory snapped into place.

In fact, our geographical memory function is one of the oldest and most developed in evolutionary terms. Well before we had language ability and could formulate abstract thought, we could remember where we were. John O’Keefe, a brain researcher, discovered, in the 1970s, what he called “place cells”: brain cells that fired only when an animal stood in one particular place, and nowhere else. In 2014, this work won the Nobel Prize after further discoveries showed that brain cells formed a hexagonal map of any space we move through. So who knew, that first-morning surprise awakening in Huatulco is backed by solid brain science.

The capacity of our geographical memory is perhaps best demonstrated by research on London cab drivers. What cabbies call ‘The Knowledge’ requires them to memorize an extraordinary amount about London’s notoriously complex network of roads, place names and landmarks. I can vouch for this ability. Once (before Google Maps), after getting off at the wrong underground stop and being hopelessly lost, we took a bus to who-knows-where, hoping to find a place to catch a cab. Then, getting off at a random bus stop, we found a London cab that recognized the street name our hotel was on. Saved by the enlarged hippocampus of a taxi driver. Brain scans have shown that London cabbies have a larger-than-normal area of the brain most tied to spatial memory.

Autobiographical Memory

That impressive ability of humans, and no doubt other animals, to know where we are does not translate so well to remembering who we are. Autobiographical memory is notoriously poor, or perhaps better said: “flexible”. But “flexible” enough to clearly remember things that never happened.

Often cited as an important “where were you when” example is the account of people remembering where they were when they first heard that John F Kennedy was assassinated. It’s a term psychologists call Flashbulb Memory. The idea is that the emotional impact of hearing of a tragic event cements the details of where they were when they heard the news. But when psychologists have actually tested such memories, they’ve found otherwise.

The day after the Challenger Space Shuttle disaster, in January 1986, researchers asked a group of students to write down where they were and what they were doing when they heard the news. Three years later, they asked the same students again. The students were confident in their memories, but often those later memories were wrong. Even when shown their own handwritten account from the day after, some refused to believe it, trusting their most vivid current memory over the document in their own hands.

Getting some details wrong about a past event is one thing. Remembering a whole event that never happened is something else. This may be best demonstrated by a 1995 study titled “Lost in the Mall.” Researchers first interviewed each subject’s family members to gather three real events from that person’s childhood. Then they presented those three, along with a fourth, a made-up story about being lost in a mall as a child but rescued unharmed by a kind stranger.

Over two interviews, they asked what the subjects remembered about each event. By the second interview, about a quarter of them not only “recalled” the mall incident that never happened but had begun to furnish it with details of their own, such as what the kind rescuer was wearing.

And if getting details wrong over time and remembering things that never happened aren’t bad enough, another fly in the ointment of autobiographical memory is how our brains reconstruct our memories. It is a misconception to think our brains are like computer memory, where the data stored is the same data recalled. Rather, each time we recall an event, we rebuild it, filling gaps from previous versions and coloring the result with the mood and circumstances of the moment. Then this revised version of the memory is stored until the next recall, creating a slow drift over time.

Facial Memory

As unreliable as our autobiographical memory can be, we are very good at remembering other people — not their names, of course, or even where we might have seen them before, but in recognizing the face itself. In fact, some people show exceptional skill in this ability.

At the time of the London riots in 2011, Constable Gary Collins of the London Metropolitan Police was on vacation. Recognizing some of the faces in the television news coverage, he returned to work to help identify rioters in the grainy CCTV footage. Collins identified around 180 suspects from riot imagery. The Met’s facial-recognition software of the time identified just one. His unusual ability helped prompt the Met to establish a dedicated super-recognizer unit, built on the small number of people who possess a supersized portion of our ability to recognize faces.

The three questions I opened with: Where am I? Who am I? Who are you? are each answered by a different memory faculty. Our sense of identity leans on all their answers. To demonstrate the importance of these memory functions, we might look to an example of someone who can no longer answer any of the three correctly.

In the essay ‘A Matter of Identity’, neurologist Oliver Sacks describes a patient of his, William Thompson, who has Korsakoff’s syndrome (the alcohol-related memory collapse). When Thompson was alone, out in the home’s garden, he sat quietly. But the moment another person appeared, a face he could not place, the confabulation ignited. He would take the stranger for someone he knew, then improvise a time and place to fit, often articulate, often interesting, a whole new identity assembled on the spot.

Thankfully, unlike Thompson, we do not invent a new self for every stranger we meet. Perhaps the brief disorientation we sometimes feel on waking is a reminder that our sense of self depends not on memory being perfectly accurate, but on it being flexible enough to bend without breaking—and still carry one continuous self from one day into the next.

Randy Jackson blends local reporting from the perspective of a seasonal Huatulco resident with explorations of life and change in Huatulco, Oaxaca, and Mexico. Email: box95jackson@gmail.com

 

When Did Huatulco Stop Being Cheap?

By Randy Redmon and Jesse Kirkham—

There was a time when one of the great pleasures of living in or visiting Huatulco was sitting down at a nice restaurant, ordering a good meal, having a couple of drinks and walking away from the table thinking, “Wow, that was a lot of food for very little money.”

Huatulco was never completely free of expensive restaurants, of course, but for many Canadians and Americans, the appeal was that even a good restaurant meal generally felt like a bargain compared with what they were accustomed to paying at home.

Lately, however, we’ve found ourselves looking at restaurant bills a little differently, not necessarily because the prices are outrageous, but because the gap between what we used to think of as “cheap” and what we are paying today seems to be getting smaller. Perhaps the easiest way to see that change is with a glass of wine.

Consider a restaurant selling a house wine for 150 pesos a glass. Depending on the exchange rate, that works out to roughly C$12 or US$9. Neither figure is particularly shocking when compared with a mid-range restaurant in Canada or the United States, especially when you remember that Canadian restaurant prices often have sales tax added after the menu price.

The question, then, isn’t really whether 150 pesos is expensive, but whether it still feels like the kind of value people have traditionally associated with Huatulco.

For many years, the favourable exchange rate helped make Huatulco feel exceptionally inexpensive to Canadians and Americans. A 300-peso dinner seemed like a bargain when your dollar bought a significant number of pesos. With the peso stronger against both the Canadian and U.S. dollars, those same peso prices translate into noticeably more money from a foreign visitor’s perspective.

A 1,000-peso restaurant bill is still 1,000 pesos, but it is also roughly C$81 or US$59 at today’s exchange rates. Add a bottle of wine, a couple of cocktails, dessert and a tip, and a dinner for two can reach 1,500 pesos or more without anyone feeling as though they went overboard.

That doesn’t necessarily make Huatulco expensive, particularly when a comparable dinner in Canada, the United States or Europe can easily cost more. It does, however, mean that Huatulco may not feel as incredibly cheap to a Canadian or American visitor as it once did.

Visitors adjust accordingly. A family staying in an Airbnb may make breakfast and lunch themselves and eat out less often, while a couple might buy a bottle of wine at the supermarket rather than order several glasses at dinner. Someone heading to the beach may fill a cooler rather than buying drinks and snacks throughout the day. Those choices make perfect financial sense, but collectively they can also affect the local businesses that depend on visitor spending.

This is where the conversation becomes more interesting than simply asking whether Huatulco restaurants are too expensive. The real question may be what value means to us now.

Huatulco has changed considerably over the years, and the restaurant scene is better and more diverse than it was when many of us first arrived. There are talented chefs, excellent seafood, international cuisine, interesting wine lists and restaurants offering experiences that simply weren’t available here years ago. That improvement comes with a price, and most of us understand that, but customers are also doing their own calculations.

If I spend 1,200 or 1,500 pesos on dinner, I don’t necessarily need it to be cheap; I need it to feel worthwhile. I want good food, good service, a pleasant atmosphere and, yes, a glass of wine that makes me glad I ordered it. That is really the difference between cheap and value: cheap is about price, while value is about what you get for the price.

Perhaps Huatulco is slowly making that transition. For years, one of the easiest ways to market a Mexican vacation was to say, “It’s beautiful, the weather is fantastic, and everything is cheap,” but perhaps that isn’t the best way to describe Huatulco anymore.

Huatulco may be becoming a value destination rather than a cheap destination, and that’s not necessarily a bad thing. People will pay for quality, a memorable meal, good service and a beautiful setting when they feel that what they received was worth what they paid.

Huatulco’s appeal has never really been that everything is cheap. It has always been the combination of natural beauty, climate, culture, food, hospitality and a quality of life that offered exceptional value. Perhaps that’s what we should be protecting.

So the next time you sit down at a Huatulco restaurant and look at a 150-peso glass of wine, maybe the question isn’t whether it’s expensive, but something much simpler: Is it worth it?

A Day at Playa San Agustín: Snorkeling, Seafood & Beach Snacks

By Julie Etra—

San Agustín has long been our favorite beach for snorkeling, watching marine life, and lingering over an early seafood lunch. It’s one of the few places where spending the entire day feels effortless. You can get there by driving: it is 13 km from the turnoff just west of the airport. The road in April 2026 remained partially paved with ‘washboard’ surface in some areas but nothing intimidating and I am fine driving it alone. One can also hire a taxi but make sure you negotiate a round-trip fare and time as you are unlikely to find one-way service given its location. Phone service is intermittent or nonexistent depending on your plan, and although Wi-Fi is available for 50 pesos, power outages are common. You can also take a water taxi or sign up with one on the larger tour boats.

We follow the tides, although this reef is not as shallow as Playa La Entrega, or Riscalillo, so avoiding low tides is not as critical. Our now favorite restaurant was selected for its location, structure, and amenities, being a bit east of the more congested palapas closer to the reef, and with the high roof providing great ventilation and spectacular views from the second story. Shade for the car, showers and bathrooms are additional benefits. And food? Our limited dining experience at three different restaurants at this bay led us to believe that the menus are pretty similar, so this was a minor factor in selecting this particular palapa.

The extensive menu features seafood and fish (surprise!) in various shapes, forms, and flavors. Fish is prepared in a variety of ways such as: a la diabla (guajillo, pasilla, and chiles de árbol), a la plancha (on the grill), in mojo de ajo (sauteed in butter and garlic), and a la talla (butterflied with spices). Dorado (mahi mahi), corvina (corvina rayada), barillete (skipjack), and mojarra are typically available, but ask first. The mojarra served here is often farm-raised tilapia, which I find pretty flavorless. Don’t forget langosta (Mexican lobster, which lacks the claws of its Atlantic relative), or huachinango (red snapper), cooked whole with all the garnishes, a large meal for several people. Shrimp dishes include cocktails, which are a bit sweet since the cocktail sauce is prepared with ketchup, and large shrimp salads accompanied with sliced avocado and tomato.

Aguachile is similar to ceviche but is marinated for less time and is typically made with shrimp rather than fish. This is my favorite restaurant dish. Guacamole, black beans, and rice are all standard fare. All orders come with a basket of tostadas, saltines, and a variety of bottled salsas. Don’t forget to ask for the salsa casera, homemade and fresh in addition to the pico de gallo accompanying your order. Pulpo, or octopus, is also on the menu, but I can’t bear to eat these highly intelligent cephalopods. There are a few meat dishes, such as arrachera (flank steak), but nope—you won’t find hamburgers or hot dogs.

When we first started frequenting the palapa restaurants we were surprised by the indifference of the owners and staff to the beach vendors passing along the perimeter. This is carefully controlled, with all vendors requiring licenses, and only entering the premises with the permission of the owners. Vendors offer a variety of wares and souvenirs, from wooden spoons and other wood carvings, to T-shirts, hats, bathing suits, jewelry, and keychains. Services, such as massages, trenzas (braiding) and temporary tattoos are available. We have never found the vendors to be overly aggressive at San Agustín as opposed to those in Los Cabos, from which we fled 18 years ago.

And FOOD. There are the cacahuate (peanut) vendors, pepita (pumpkin seeds) vendors, paletas (popsicles), bolis (icy fruit treats), pay de queso (cheese pie), pay de elote (cornbread) from the Isthmus of Tehuantepec, tamales, elote (corn on the cob, Mexican style), platanos fritos (fried bananas) with lechera y/o crema (condensed milk and/or cream) and coffee. Ostiones (oysters) on the half shell, a half or full dozen, and even on occasion mejillones (mussels), harvested fresh and locally, are frequently offered.

My all-time favorite beach snacks—a close tie with the plátanos fritos—are the molotes. These are deep-fried mashed plantains shaped into pastry-like parcels and filled with either cream cheese (aka Philadelphia) to appease the tourists, or more traditionally with quesillo, the tasty Oaxacan cheese. Delicious and filling, order them with lechera and crema, and enjoy the extra sweetness.

Deep Connection: A guide to Huatulco’s Liquid Landscapes

By Nancy Reyes—

A visit to Huatulco offers beautiful beaches and spectacular bays. Whether you’re looking to surf, snorkel, dive, fish, or explore Oaxaca’s rich cultural traditions, there are countless ways to experience the region. Here are a few ideas to help you make the most of your next visit.

Surfing
With warm water year-round, Huatulco is an excellent destination for surfers of all levels. For beginners, Playa La Bocana offers gentle, consistent waves that provide a comfortable environment for learning. More experienced surfers often head to Playa Mojón or Barra de la Cruz, located about 30 minutes down the coast, where larger and more challenging waves can be found.

Surf lessons and board rentals are available in Barra de la Cruz.

Surf trips can also be arranged through Gil at Café Surf: www.huatulcosurftrip.com

Diving & Snorkeling
Huatulco National Park protects one of the most important marine ecosystems on the Oaxacan coast. Coral formations, rocky reefs, mangroves, and abundant marine life make it a popular destination for both divers and snorkelers. Here, you can witness the underwater whims of the Pacific—look for the sea turtles, rays and a kaleidoscope of tropical fish.

Whether you’re exploring shallow reefs or venturing farther offshore, the park is an opportunity to experience the region’s underwater biodiversity firsthand.

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Fishing
Sport fishing has long been part of life on the Oaxacan coast. Half-day and full-day excursions are available throughout Huatulco, ranging from local fishing boats to fully equipped sport-fishing yachts. The summer months are particularly exciting for catching Marlin and Sailfish.

When booking a trip, consider choosing operators that follow sustainable fishing practices and respect local marine conservation efforts.

My Top Three Huatulco Water Experiences:

San Agustin Bay Snorkeling
This bay is my top choice for those seeking raw, untouched beauty. Located within the Huatulco National Park, it protects a vital marine ecosystem where the coral formation and rocky reefs are remarkably accessible. San Agustin Bay is located a 40-minute drive from Huatulco’s Hotel district.

Sunrise at La Bocana
One of the best ways to begin your day is catching the early morning sun at Playa La Bocana. It is a vital coastal ritual that allows you to enjoy the water before the midday heat. If you surf, bring your board. Breakfast at one of the beachfront restaurants rounds out the experience.

Copalitilla Waterfalls
Go beyond the beach and visit the Copalitilla Waterfalls. It’s totally worth it! These spectacular, crystal-clear series of cascading waterfalls are surrounded by a tropical jungle of towering ceiba and mahogany trees, orchids, lacey ferns and wild cacao plants. The best time to visit is from November to May. If you are visiting during the rainy season be careful with washed out roads and muddy water.

Practical Tips for Travelers

Booking: Use trusted sources, review the contact information, reviews from other guests. The Secretary of Tourism recommends using accredited tour guides and advises avoiding services offered on public roads. For tourist assistance during your visit to Oaxaca, contact:

Tourist Protection Center: 951 5021200 ext. 1204.
Emergency Numbers: (911) Green Angels (078).

Reservation and cancellation fees. Carefully review the fees for the service you are hiring. In some cases, services do not accept cancellations or refunds. It is suggested that you try to plan ahead your adventures.

Weather conditions. Review weather and respect notices of closed roads or beaches, especially during the rainy season.

Stay Hydrated. Drink water and limit alcohol consumption. Schedule outdoor activities during the early morning or late afternoon hours to avoid exposure to midday sun. In cases of overheating, a cold shower is recommended as the fastest way to bring down your body temperature.

And don’t forget your camera. As a recent Bad Bunny song reminds us, we often wish we had taken more pictures. Huatulco provides plenty of moments worth remembering.

Nancy Reyes, was born in Mexicali, holds a Language Sciences PhD, blends research and storytelling to bridge the profound connections between language and Mexico’s layered cultural identity.

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Masters of Flight: The Brown Pelicans of Oaxaca’s Coast

By Julie Etra—

Brown pelicans (Pelecanus occidentalis) are a common and delightful sight along Mexico’s Costa Chica. I never tire of watching them swoop and glide effortlessly along the coastline, skimming just above the waves as if gravity barely applies to them.
Brown Pelican Basics.

Taxonomy
Based on fossil records, they have been around for at least 30 million years but have remained morphologically and physiologically unchanged. Their seemingly bulky body is perfectly suited to the coastal ecosystems in which they reside, including their feeding habits. Although references vary there are five to seven species of pelican worldwide. The Oaxacan coast is unusual because two subspecies may be found here: the California brown pelican (P. o. californicus) and the Eastern brown pelican (P. o. carolinensis), although most of the birds seen locally are believed to be P. o. carolinensis. Their differences are subtle, so next time you see one pay attention. They rarely venture more than 20 miles out to sea or far inland and are non-migratory.

They are relatively uniform in appearance, with of course the large white pelican being the exception (this is a fresh or brackish water species). They typically live 15-30 years in the wild although mortality is high in the first few years of life and are sexually mature at three- five years of age. Populations have rebounded dramatically from the brink of near extinction due to the pesticide DDT, which weakened the shells of their eggs, and was banned in the United States in 1972. Today their numbers are estimated to exceed 370,000.

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Feeding
Brown pelicans primarily eat fish, particularly sardines and herrings but also an occasional crustacean, egg, or amphibian. When I head out to snorkel at Playa La Entrega and see circling pelicans and cormorants, I know there is most likely a huge school of Pacific herrings, known locally as sardinas (such a beautiful sight to see). They fish by plunge-diving headfirst, with their wings tucked behind their backs, and stunning their prey before they are scooped up. Their big gular pouch is highly elastic and is perfectly suited for fishing. It can hold up to three gallons of water, which it drains before swallowing its prey. The pouch is also highly effective for regulating heat given its elasticity and large surface area.

Reproduction
Nesting ranges from Sinaloa south through Nayarit, Jalisco, and Guerrero, and finally the coastal shores of Oaxaca. They are gregarious birds and nest in colonies.
Nests are a messy but elaborate affair when built in thickets, such as dense stands of mangroves, a platform made of sticks and branches, or a simple version directly on the ground. Nesting typically occurs late fall through early June and is accomplished mostly by the females. Clutch sizes vary but typically consist of two or three oval, chalky white eggs, with both the male and the female sharing incubation and rearing responsibilities. Eggs are incubated under their large, webbed feet for 28- 30 days. The parents feed the young by regurgitating their partially digested catch into the awaiting, gaping beaks. At about 63 days they fledge from the nest and form small groups known as pods. I have never seen a pelican nest, and much to my surprise neither has the expert local guide Cornelio Ramos.

Flight
This to me is the most fascinating aspect of brown pelican behavior. I see them flying in V formations, in single file, and sometimes alone, often skimming just inches above the water’s surface. What appears effortless is actually a remarkable combination of aerodynamic strategies that allow these large birds to travel long distances while conserving energy.

Wave-Slope Soaring
Brown pelicans take advantage of wind generated by ocean waves. As wind pushes up against the face of a wave, it creates a small updraft. Pelicans position themselves in this sweet spot and essentially ride the moving air, reducing the effort required to stay aloft. This technique, known as wave-slope soaring, can reduce their energy expenditure by as much as 60 to 70 percent.

Ground Effect
When flying closer to the water than the length of a single wingspan, pelicans benefit from a phenomenon known as ground effect. A cushion of compressed air forms between the bird’s wings and the water’s surface, creating additional lift and reducing drag. This allows them to glide efficiently with minimal wingbeats, producing the elegant, low-level flight that is so characteristic of the species.

V-Formation Flying
When traveling in groups, pelicans often adopt a V-shaped formation. The wingtips of the lead bird create spirals of rising air that provide lift for the birds behind. By riding these updrafts, trailing pelicans reduce their own energy expenditure and flap their wings less frequently.

But how do they decide who leads? The answer is simple: everyone takes a turn. As the lead bird tires, it drops back into the formation, and another pelican takes its place. In this way, the flock shares the workload, making long-distance travel more efficient for everyone.

Watching a squadron of pelicans glide effortlessly along the coast may look simple, but behind that graceful flight lies a sophisticated understanding of wind, waves, and teamwork that has been refined over millions of years of evolution.

What is a flock of pelicans called?
A squadron, a pod, or a scoop. When pelicans are seen swimming or flying together in an organized formation, they can also be called a fleet.

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