Tag Archives: Personal Essay

First Morning in Huatulco: The Map, The Mirror and The Mind

By Randy Jackson—

Beyond a certain age, it becomes strikingly clear how much our memories define who we are, or who we think we are. What we remember, whether true or false, ends up defining us. Memory is a complex and fascinating faculty, and understanding even a few of its features helps us better understand how we make sense of the world.

If you can imagine awakening from a deep blackout sleep, one in which your brain needs to reboot, you would have three profound questions: Where am I? Who am I? And who (the hell) are you? At that moment, you really need your memory to perform three different functions. These three functions are handled differently with varying degrees of accuracy and reliability within your cranial complex. These are: Geographical Memory to know where you are. Autobiographical Memory to recall who you are. And Facial Memory to recognize others.

Geographical Memory

As a seasonal resident, sometimes waking on the first morning in Huatulco results in a brief but sudden shift in orientation. That felt shift seems to be the result of my brain recognizing the familiar bedroom surroundings of our place in Huatulco, while realizing I’m not in Calgary anymore. And although I’m sure no neurologist would ever describe it this way, it seems like the geographical memory snapped into place.

In fact, our geographical memory function is one of the oldest and most developed in evolutionary terms. Well before we had language ability and could formulate abstract thought, we could remember where we were. John O’Keefe, a brain researcher, discovered, in the 1970s, what he called “place cells”: brain cells that fired only when an animal stood in one particular place, and nowhere else. In 2014, this work won the Nobel Prize after further discoveries showed that brain cells formed a hexagonal map of any space we move through. So who knew, that first-morning surprise awakening in Huatulco is backed by solid brain science.

The capacity of our geographical memory is perhaps best demonstrated by research on London cab drivers. What cabbies call ‘The Knowledge’ requires them to memorize an extraordinary amount about London’s notoriously complex network of roads, place names and landmarks. I can vouch for this ability. Once (before Google Maps), after getting off at the wrong underground stop and being hopelessly lost, we took a bus to who-knows-where, hoping to find a place to catch a cab. Then, getting off at a random bus stop, we found a London cab that recognized the street name our hotel was on. Saved by the enlarged hippocampus of a taxi driver. Brain scans have shown that London cabbies have a larger-than-normal area of the brain most tied to spatial memory.

Autobiographical Memory

That impressive ability of humans, and no doubt other animals, to know where we are does not translate so well to remembering who we are. Autobiographical memory is notoriously poor, or perhaps better said: “flexible”. But “flexible” enough to clearly remember things that never happened.

Often cited as an important “where were you when” example is the account of people remembering where they were when they first heard that John F Kennedy was assassinated. It’s a term psychologists call Flashbulb Memory. The idea is that the emotional impact of hearing of a tragic event cements the details of where they were when they heard the news. But when psychologists have actually tested such memories, they’ve found otherwise.

The day after the Challenger Space Shuttle disaster, in January 1986, researchers asked a group of students to write down where they were and what they were doing when they heard the news. Three years later, they asked the same students again. The students were confident in their memories, but often those later memories were wrong. Even when shown their own handwritten account from the day after, some refused to believe it, trusting their most vivid current memory over the document in their own hands.

Getting some details wrong about a past event is one thing. Remembering a whole event that never happened is something else. This may be best demonstrated by a 1995 study titled “Lost in the Mall.” Researchers first interviewed each subject’s family members to gather three real events from that person’s childhood. Then they presented those three, along with a fourth, a made-up story about being lost in a mall as a child but rescued unharmed by a kind stranger.

Over two interviews, they asked what the subjects remembered about each event. By the second interview, about a quarter of them not only “recalled” the mall incident that never happened but had begun to furnish it with details of their own, such as what the kind rescuer was wearing.

And if getting details wrong over time and remembering things that never happened aren’t bad enough, another fly in the ointment of autobiographical memory is how our brains reconstruct our memories. It is a misconception to think our brains are like computer memory, where the data stored is the same data recalled. Rather, each time we recall an event, we rebuild it, filling gaps from previous versions and coloring the result with the mood and circumstances of the moment. Then this revised version of the memory is stored until the next recall, creating a slow drift over time.

Facial Memory

As unreliable as our autobiographical memory can be, we are very good at remembering other people — not their names, of course, or even where we might have seen them before, but in recognizing the face itself. In fact, some people show exceptional skill in this ability.

At the time of the London riots in 2011, Constable Gary Collins of the London Metropolitan Police was on vacation. Recognizing some of the faces in the television news coverage, he returned to work to help identify rioters in the grainy CCTV footage. Collins identified around 180 suspects from riot imagery. The Met’s facial-recognition software of the time identified just one. His unusual ability helped prompt the Met to establish a dedicated super-recognizer unit, built on the small number of people who possess a supersized portion of our ability to recognize faces.

The three questions I opened with: Where am I? Who am I? Who are you? are each answered by a different memory faculty. Our sense of identity leans on all their answers. To demonstrate the importance of these memory functions, we might look to an example of someone who can no longer answer any of the three correctly.

In the essay ‘A Matter of Identity’, neurologist Oliver Sacks describes a patient of his, William Thompson, who has Korsakoff’s syndrome (the alcohol-related memory collapse). When Thompson was alone, out in the home’s garden, he sat quietly. But the moment another person appeared, a face he could not place, the confabulation ignited. He would take the stranger for someone he knew, then improvise a time and place to fit, often articulate, often interesting, a whole new identity assembled on the spot.

Thankfully, unlike Thompson, we do not invent a new self for every stranger we meet. Perhaps the brief disorientation we sometimes feel on waking is a reminder that our sense of self depends not on memory being perfectly accurate, but on it being flexible enough to bend without breaking—and still carry one continuous self from one day into the next.

Randy Jackson blends local reporting from the perspective of a seasonal Huatulco resident with explorations of life and change in Huatulco, Oaxaca, and Mexico. Email: box95jackson@gmail.com

 

My Quest for Calm in San Miguel

By Audrey Jacobs—

Everyone warned me when I moved to San Miguel de Allende, and I didn’t listen. Centro is still a city. Church bells, trucks, street vendors hawking their wares, New York City with the flavor of a small Mexican colonial town. They said I’d eventually crave nature, quiet, a kind of peace only living outside of town can give you.
Life got crazy, and I finally understood the warnings. But I love my duplex in Colonia San Antonio. I didn’t want to “vacation” to relax. So, I went looking for a staycation instead, a week immersed in nature, where someone else would take care of me and force me into self-care.

My life had quietly, then suddenly, turned upside down.
At 55, nine months earlier, I’d moved here alone to fulfill a 30-year dream, with a safety net, a well-paid consulting client I’d had for years. I’d spent my whole life multitasking as a wife, mother, employee, with passion projects as my side hustle: curating TEDx talks, building community, designing events, and matchmaking. I never flew without a net.

Then the net disappeared. My consulting contract ended, my job was eaten by AI. It was time to depend on myself. Terrifying. My body went into fight, flight, or freeze and stayed there. I ate too much, drank too much, didn’t sleep, snapped at my boyfriend, and turned into a whirling dervish.

Inspiration struck and in one insane month I built “Love in San Miguel”, a new social club, from nothing to 400 members and a launch event. It was supposed to fulfill me and sustain me. It did, and it also took a toll.

I needed a reset, a therapeutic escape to restore my nervous system. I made a list of what I wanted: nature, peaceful elegant rooms, a home feel rather than a hotel, places to write, a bio pool, a sauna, hot tub and views.

Most of all, someone whose life’s work was running that place, someone who’d decide exactly what I ate, drank, and did for one week. I wanted to be told how to reset. I’m from California, so I know the Golden Door style reset, where they control your every movement and you switch off. Never been my thing. I wanted a place where I could still think, and where the person running it could teach me a way of living so stress wouldn’t swallow me again once I got home. And I didn’t want it to break the bank. Reasonable yet valuable. It was a demanding list. I’m so demanding about homes and men that I honestly doubted this place existed.

Was I wrong!

Meet Viktor Hackl, owner of Cuna del Cielo. I googled San Miguel de Allende detox retreat, and his place was, literally, the only one that matched my vision. Everything else was a pretty place with massages, yoga, donkeys or simply day spas.

His website’s first line got me: “Cuna del Cielo is a lush four-bedroom oasis on a hilltop above San Miguel de Allende, inviting guests to rest and heal in a space of undisturbed peace and beauty.”

I ached reading it. How soon could I check in?
The property sits a ten-to-fifteen-minute walk from the main town square, yet worlds away quietly tucked right against the botanical gardens of the Charco del Ingenio, canyons and waterfalls. Viktor built his sanctuary around that stunning landscape.

It was everything I’d dreamed of. I live in San Miguel and love it, but up here, above it all, something in me unclenched. I didn’t realize how much I needed to see that much open sky.

Viktor’s regimen, food, supplements, exercise, healing modalities, is thorough and deeply researched. Yet he’s not rigid about whether or when you do it.

“Who are you?!?” I asked him. “Austrian”, he said. A more relaxed and casual hybrid of German/Italian/Slavic mentalities. He truly embodied his vision when I saw him grinning over the top of his hand-built wooden sauna box, tanned and peaceful.

Every surface here is made with love. My room, the World Loft, has a private library you reach by a wooden ladder and a round window that frames a single pirul (pink pepper) tree like a painting. I felt like I was in some sort of health time warp. I genuinely didn’t want to leave.

Viktor lives on the property full time and tends to his guests with sincere patience. I’m dating the man who opened San Miguel’s first organic grocery store, someone who takes a generous number of daily supplements, and even he was impressed by Viktor’s knowledge and protocol.

What surprised me most wasn’t any single treatment. It was how much of Viktor’s world quietly rearranged mine, without ever feeling like a lecture.

The days follow an intermittent fasting window. Orthomolecular supplements are dosed with real precision. A therapeutic cycle runs once or twice daily: stretching, wet sauna, gym, cold plunge, infrared sauna again. It never once feels like a chore.

But it’s the small things I know I’ll actually keep. On day two, someone knocked and asked if Viktor’s energy cleanser could come into my room for the weekly clearing. Sage, essential oils, incense, and it was done weekly. I’ve saged a new home before I moved in. I’d never once thought to do it weekly, as maintenance, the way you’d change sheets. I’m taking that home with me.

I also noticed that by day three, my cravings for junk had simply stopped, because the junk wasn’t in the house. Stupid simple concept I’d never applied to my own kitchen. If it’s not there, you don’t eat it. And the eating window, done by six most nights, isn’t a diet rule so much as a kindness to your own sleep. I’ll still go out for dinner sometimes. I’m not becoming a monk. But the logic of it stuck.

The bedrooms are massive and still cozy, and I never felt crowded by the other three rooms. The communal kitchen, dining room, and rooftop hot tub give everyone room to mix or disappear. I loved the outdoor gym more than I’ve ever loved a gym, including an assisted morning headstand with my boyfriend spotting me.

My nervous system had been on overdrive, inhaling stress for three months straight, and I won’t pretend one week erased that. I still snap back into old patterns when triggered. But for most of each day, I was genuinely, physically at peace, in a way my body had been begging for.

Cuna del Cielo also offers oxygen therapy, IV drips, acupuncture, and sound healing, a full menu I didn’t even get on this trip. Reasons enough to go back.

I would have guessed San Miguel had a dozen places doing this. It has exactly one operating at this level, and I’m grateful it does. If you live here, you don’t need a plane ticket for this kind of reset. Cuna del Cielo even offers day passes, a few hours with the saunas, the natural pool, and the jacuzzi, for anyone who just needs an afternoon of it. If you’re visiting, block off the week. I live in San Miguel, and I’m already plaanning when I get to go back.

Audrey Jacobs is the founder and chief matchmaker of Love in San Miguel | Amor en San Miguel. She is a TEDx speaker whose talk has been viewed nearly 200,000 times. Audrey lives in San Miguel de Allende and believes the city is too magical to love alone.