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San Miguel de Allende

The San Miguel Writers’ Conference and Literary Festival 2026

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By Pat Steele—

The San Miguel Writers’ Conference and Literary Festival began in 2006 as an event attended by just 26 people. But what a difference two decades makes. Celebrating its twenty-first anniversary next year, it now brings 1,500 visitors to the mountain town in the heart of Mexico that Travel + Leisure magazine readers have repeatedly voted the “number one city in the world.”

“Our goal is to bring together the literary traditions of the US, Canada, and Mexico,” said the organization’s executive director, Jodi Pincus. “But as we continue to grow, we also have an increasingly global outlook. We strongly believe in the power of literature to build bridges by telling people’s stories. And there’s never been a greater need for that.”

The charm, culture and people of San Miguel de Allende are all parts of the reason why world-famous authors make the trip here each year. Keynoting the 2026 conference, which will be held February 11—15 at the Hotel Real de Minas, are global superstar writers Abraham Verghese (Cutting for Stone; The Covenant of Water), Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie (Half of a Yellow Sun; Americanah; Purple Hibiscus), Rebecca “R.F.” Kuang (The Poppy War trilogy; Babel; Yellowface), Emily St. John Mandel (Station Eleven; The Glass Hotel; Sea of Tranquility), Andrés Neuman (Bariloche; Traveler of the Century; Fracture; Until It Begins To Shine) Yásnaya Elena Aguilar Gil (Ää: Manifiestos por la diversidad lingüística), Maira Kalman (The Principles of Uncertainty), and the winner of Canada’s prestigious Giller Prize for fiction (to be announced.)

Sandra Cisneros (The House on Mango Street, Woman Hollering Creek and Other Stories) and Eduardo Antonio Parra (Nostalgia de la sombra, El rostro de piedra) are two famous names among the dozens of conference faculty who will be offering lectures, advice, and hands-on courses. Attendees will be able to take workshops in everything from plotting telenovelas to writing their memoir. Other faculty members of note include Jean Kwok, Jennifer Clement, Ann Hood, Hope Edelman, Christopher Bollen, and Sara Weinman.

The conference is also a great place for would-be authors to get practical advice from experts on the business and publishing side of literature. Prominent literary agents such as Michael Carr, Anna Knutson Geller, Rita Rozenkranz, Veronica Flores, Sam Hiyate and Susan Golomb will offer one-on-one pitch sessions. Other top publishing insiders offering individual consultations include Harper Influence publisher, Lisa Sharkey. There are also parties galore, faculty readings, open mic sessions, guided local excursions, discussion groups, wellness offerings, and more.

The conference is almost fully bilingual, and many of the Spanish-langue events are free to Mexican nationals. The general director of the Spanish program is Armida Zepeda, who has been instrumental in bringing many famous writers from Mexico and Latin America to San Miguel. “As a culture promoter, I know the literary scene in Mexico, which allows me to interact with literary professionals whom I am thrilled to invite to the festival,” she said.

Prominent Mexican and Spanish-language teaching faculty next year will include Amaranta Caballero, Ana Luisa Isla, Araceli Ardón, Bernardo Govea, Marcela R. Loreto, Mónica Hoth, Rodrigo Díaz Guerrero, Josemaria Moreno, Antolina Ortiz Moore, Matthew Sanabria Stenger, and Magali T. Ortega.

Many credit the event’s president and co-founder, Susan Page, as being among the secrets to its success. “I organized my Brownie troop in the third grade and have been starting organizations ever since,” she jokes. “The Writers’ Conference has put San Miguel on the literary map of the world and brings over three million US dollars into the local economy every year. Plus, I love the experience itself: high-level thrills combined with intimate connections. It’s an enchanting week.”

Her considerable charm and commitment to literature have brought a who’s-who of famous writers to the conference over the last 20 years. Just a small selection of those names include John Irving, Margaret Atwood, Barbara Kingsolver, Cristina Rivera Garza, Silvia Moreno Garcia, Gloria Steinem, Judy Collins, Alice Walker, Scott Turow, Joyce Carol Oates, Calvin Trillin, Yuri Herrera, Rosa Beltrán, Margo Glantz, Pedro Ángel Palou, Brenda Lozano, Guillermo Arriaga, Adam Gopnik, Elena Poniatowska, Laura Esquivel, Mary Karr, Juan Villoro, Jorge Volpi, Tommy Orange, Paul Theroux, and Delia Owens. (You might also recognize Page’s name as the author of the international bestseller “If I’m So Wonderful, Why Am I Still Single?”—first published in 1988, and still going strong.)

Tom Robbins, the late counterculture icon whose novels include Even Cowgirls Get the Blues, was an early supporter, keynoting the conference in 2008. Before going home he left a testimonial for the fledgling event, which was then still only catering to a few dozen people: “If Dante had had the San Miguel experience, he would have written more about heaven and less about hell.”

For tickets and more information about the program, please visit the ‘ San Miguel Writers Conference and Literary Festival website: http://www.sanmiguelwritersconference.org

 

San Miguel de Allende

The History of Fabrica La Aurora

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Rebecca Desiree C. —

Before becoming the center for creativity and culture known locally as La Aurora Centro de Arte y Diseño, La Aurora was once just a simple textile factory. Originally launched in 1902, Fabrica La Aurora operated as a major producer of fine cotton textiles in San Miguel de Allende.

For about nine decades, the factory would go on to provide a source of livelihood to hundreds of locals, but it would later shut down in 1991 due to declining demands for local fabrics and rising production costs.

For more than a decade following its shutdown, the factory lay abandoned until the descendants of its founders chose to put the property up for sale in the early years of the 21st century. This article will share a bit of the history of Fabrica Aurora and its transformation into one of San Miguel de Allende’s most celebrated centers for art, culture, and creative expression.
A Brief History of Old Fabrica La Aurora
Fabrica La Aurora was one of the largest and most important textile factories in central Mexico. According to local accounts, at its height, the factory employed more than 300 people and was a major player in the thread and textile market in Mexico.

The factory remained in business for most of the 20th century, dominating the textile market in central Mexico, spreading its products to the rest of the country. From the end of the 1970s, however, the factory began to face challenges that eventually lead to its gradual decline and closure. Some of these challenges included increased global textile competition, outdated machinery that struggled to keep up with modern production standards, and the economic instability that struck Mexico during the 1980s. The factory would continue to struggle for one more decade before finally closing down in 1991. While definitive archival records are scarce, local histories attribute the closure in 1991 to rising global competition, out-dated machinery and broader economic pressures in Mexico’s textile sector.

Upon the factory’s closure, most of its infrastructure was left in place, the entire facility abandoned. Things would stay this way until, over a decade later, the decision was made to sell the property. This single decision would go on to set the stage for one of the most creative and inspiring transformations in Mexico’s history.

From Abandoned Textile Factory to Hub of Creativity
In many ways, La Aurora’s transformation into one of the biggest cultural centers in San Miguel came as the result of a shared vision and a willingness to do what it takes to make said vision a reality.

The property was put up for sale in the early 2000s. Having been abandoned for over a decade, its machines corroded and its infrastructure in a clear state of disrepair, the sale was not a highly competitive one. However, this would end up working in favour of a small group of artists, designers, and investors, who shared a similar vision for the site’s revival.

For this group, the goal wasn’t to revive the factory to its glory days or even restore its facilities and infrastructure; it was to inspire. By turning this abandoned, local landmark into a cultural center, the group hoped not just to preserve a piece of San Miguel’s history but also to prove that even broken things can be transformed into something new and beautiful.

In 2004, the factory officially reopened, now under new management. Gone were the days of Fabrica La Aurora, the textile factory. In its place stood La Aurora Centro de Arte y Diseño, a haven dedicated to art, culture, and creativity.

La Aurora’s transformation from an abandoned 20th-century textile factory to the 21st-century creative and cultural powerhouse it is today didn’t happen by chance; it was the result of shared vision, determination, and unwavering belief that art could breathe new life into history.

Behind La Aurora’s transformation stand the bold artists and designers who chose to reimagine what was once a relic of industry into a living canvas of creativity. Notable names here include Christopher Fallon, Mary Rapp, Merry Calderoni, and DeWayne Youts, amongst others. Where most people saw heavily deteriorated infrastructure and machinery that had accumulated over a decade’s worth of rust and decay, these men and women saw the chance to build something extraordinary from the remnants of the past.

La Aurora Today — More Than Just a Renovated Factory
Today, the transformation of La Aurora is an inspiring example of cultural regeneration. In just two decades, the formerly abandoned factory had transformed into a creative sanctuary for artists and designers that houses a collection of art and design studios, galleries, and workshops.

Since its reopening the property has gone through a few renovations to fit its new purpose. Halls and corridors that used to house rows of looms and spinning machines now proudly display galleries and studios showcasing paintings, sculptures, furniture, and handcrafted designs from various artists and designers.

In just two decades, La Aurora had successfully reinvented itself. A quick look at the Cultural Center of Art and Design, La Aurora, today, and you’d be hard-pressed to see that century-old factory that was left unattended for over a decade. Instead, what you’d see is a thriving cultural landscape rich with art, design, and imagination; proof that even once-abandoned things can be given new life and made relevant again.

La Aurora Centro de Arte y Diseño is located just north of San Miguel’s historic center and is open to the public year-round, with regular art walks, exhibitions, and cafés within the old factory walls.

San Miguel de Allende

A Culinary Journey Through San Miguel: Discovering Hidden Gems

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By Michael Solof —

For over five years, through my group SMA Adventure Hound, I have been introducing newcomers, tourists, and locals, twice a week, to a large variety of brunch and dinner spots around town. That’s more than 300 different restaurants, including local food trucks, vineyards, and fine dining adventures.

When The Eye magazine asked me to write an article on my favorite eating places around town, it felt like a daunting task. I asked them if I could just focus on my favorite secret places. These are spots that are sometimes hidden away, off the beaten track or sometimes they’re hiding behind an unmarked door on one of the busy main streets. My challenge was to pick a breakfast, lunch, and dinner place that maybe isn’t the first thing that pops into people’s mind… but should be.

BREAKFAST
Aldama 9 (also goes by Posada Corazón)
San Miguel is gorgeous in the mornings. It’s cool and crisp before the sun works its way up into the sky, making it the perfect time to head out to a spot where you can enjoy a cup of coffee and a wonderful meal to start your day. My favorite secret spot for breakfast hides itself better than Waldo in a building-sized mural! Aldama 9 is concealed behind a small door with nothing more than a small plaque with the address: #9. That’s it. No signs, no greeters, nothing indicating that behind this door is one of the most beautiful breakfast spots in all of SMA. Next to the door is a small speaker with a button. Push the button, and they will ring you in.

As you enter there is a beautiful walkway leading past a huge old tree stretching up to the sky. If you follow that walkway down and to the left, you’ll see a building that could easily have been designed by my favorite architect, Frank Lloyd Wright.

Across from an open kitchen are two huge window doors that rotate from the center like revolving doors, leading to the outdoor balcony where they serve breakfast every morning from 8 AM to 12 noon. But first, go into the main library full of books lining the walls, a fireplace, and lots of comfy chairs. I can’t think of a more magnificent room to relax in.

Seating is available inside or out on the balcony overlooking chickens, roosters, and their private garden, where the owners grow veggies and offer organic menu options based on what’s available in the garden that day. On Sundays, they also have a buffet and usually have a harpist playing quietly in the background. It’s quite lovely. Brunch runs about 200 pesos (250 on Sunday) and is worth every exquisite bite. The service is always excellent, and the huge variety of food is just plain delicious. Please make sure you pet the many friendly cats and dogs who you’ll often see lounging around the place. So cute.

LUNCH
El Encanto – Relox No. 41 (just across the street from the side entrance of the Biblioteca on Relox)

If you like Mexican charm, look no further than El Encanto. It is located a five-minute walk from the center of town. Covered from floor to ceiling in vibrant Mexican murals and filled with decorations, this is the place I take visitors to feel that old-world Mexican spirit.

Although they have a breakfast menu from 9 AM to 1 PM, the lunch and dinner menu is where it’s at! It features over 10 pages of items, all inexpensively priced, stunningly plated, and huge portions to boot. I usually have enough to take some home for dinner! The lasagnas, salads, and pastas are phenomenal and freshly prepared to order. Though the wait can be a little longer, the generous portion sizes and beautifully presented dishes make it well worth it. I have been taking people here for years, and the place never ceases to astound my guests!

Meals run around 250-300 pesos. Closed on Mondays.

After your meal, make sure to check out the Biblioteca (Library) across the street. It contains the largest collection of English-language books in all of Mexico! To top it off, the bookstore is a fabulous place to get gifts, see a show in their tiny theater, or grab a snack in their café.

DINNER
Mestiza – Hermanos Aldama No. 43 (located on the back terrace through all the stores)

Mestiza nudges past the competition as my favorite dinner spot. The restaurant is run by two incredibly nice guys, George and Javier. Located about a ten-minute stroll from the Jardin, this gem is situated in a stunning secret garden that captures the essence of Mexico with its aromas, warmth, and rich traditions.

Mestiza specializes in celebrating ancestral recipes passed down through generations, showcasing dishes such as enmoladas, sopecitos mestizos, and gorditas de cochinita pibil. Each dish is a testament to the culinary heritage of Mexico, and every visit yields rave reviews from my guests. The restaurant is also whimsical and kid-friendly, with tiny gnomes hidden throughout.

Mestiza specializes in Mexican food with a European twist and has won many awards for its delectable dishes. It has been voted as my group’s favorite restaurant for both years. There is one more key reason to go to Mestiza. I collect voluntary donations for the local pet rescues in town at all my events and last year, we collected over 60,000 pesos. I have two rescues myself, so it’s a cause near and dear to my heart. Of the almost 300 spots we’ve gone to in five years, Mestiza is the only one to give back a significant portion of their proceeds as a donation for the pets. The owners have several rescued animals too.

Whether you’re a long-time resident or a first-time visitor, San Miguel de Allende offers a rich culinary landscape. From the quiet mornings at Aldama 9 to the charming lunches at El Encanto and the delicious dinners at Mestiza, these spots provide not just meals, but experiences that capture the heart and soul of this beautiful town.

So, venture beyond the well-trodden paths and indulge in culinary delights that promise to make your time in San Miguel unforgettable.

Michael Solof leads SMA Adventure Hound, a group which takes locals and newcomers to brunches and dinners at different restaurants every week and he also offers classes in the art of smartphone photography. You can contact him at WhatsApp +1-443-310-9214 for more info and to reserve.

San Miguel de Allende

Letter from SMA

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By Ximena Collado —

Welcome to the first edition of The Eye San Miguel de Allende. I have always connected to San Miguel and so, it felt natural, when my friend Jane, who I met at a two-week creative residency in Valle de Bravo told me she was looking to expand the magazine she had created more than 15 years ago in Huatulco to another city.

When I saw the advertising for this creative residency something told me I had to be there. I followed my intuition and promised myself I would come out of there with a project or idea I could execute. I knew this was the project I was looking for as soon as Jane and I started talking about it.

San Miguel is a city I hold close to my heart. When I was little, I came camping with my family and stayed at a trailer park close to the train rails. These trips to San Miguel were our beloved family vacations and they were the perfect combination of nature and town. My dad would give my siblings and I a 5- or 10-pesos coin, we would put it on the rails and wait for the train to pass. Our coins would become flat. We did that every time we came here on vacation.

Unfortunately, this trailer park doesn’t exist anymore. The land was sold, and I am told there are big houses built on that field now. I am trying to embrace change but the nostalgia hits me when I think of my childhood and the simple life. If anyone knows of a nice, simple place to go camping in San Miguel, please let me know.

We would always eat breakfast at Café La Parroquia where the lovely owner would greet us in what I thought was a fascinating accent. I think that’s where my curiosity for foreign languages and cultures started. She became the first “San Miguel local” I ever met. She was there every single morning. And she was so nice to us.

We hope this magazine can help many small businesses reach new clients as well as educate and inform you, our readers, about this beautiful country and city you are visiting or have decided to live in, and I’m so excited to immerse myself in this amazing town.

See you next month!
Ximena Collado

Huatulco, San Miguel de Allende

Four Fashionable Mexican Heads of State

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By Marcia Chaiken and Jan Chaiken —

Fashion statements have been made for millennia by the Heads of State in Mexico. Whether in pre- or post-Columbian eras, the most important political Mexican figures have always signaled their relationship with the common people (and sometimes with their gods) with their attire. Here are the fashion statements made by four of the most known.

King Pakal the Great, (aka K’inich Janaab Pakal), who ruled over Palenque from age 12 for 68 years until his death in 683, may be best known for interpretations of engravings on his sarcophagus that led him to be called the Mayan astronaut or time traveler. The engravings show him sporting paraphernalia that looks like space flight equipment. But whether he was human or extraterrestrial, his funeral dress clearly indicates that he was considered more than a mere mortal. Adorned with a king’s ransom of jade, from his death mask to the multiple ear pieces, necklaces, bracelets, and rings, even in death he was an impressive sight. The jade mask is most startling because of the inlay of obsidian “eyes”.

Many engravings of Mayan rulers show them wearing elaborate headdresses. But anthropologist Alyce de Carteret described the primary fashion piece of Mayan rulers: “A bark-paper headband adorned with a diadem of jade or shell was bound to the heads of rulers the day they acceded to the throne.” However, existing clay figures of Pakal show him wearing a bird mask, a headdress of quetzal feathers and a long elaborate gown decorated with necklaces of jade. We can surmise that the gown was made from finely woven cotton, since only the wealthiest Mayans could afford that material.

Montezuma (aka Moctezuma II) was the 9th ruler of the Aztec Empire and was the head of state for eighteen years until his death in 1520. Unlike Pakal whose living attire requires some conjecture, Montezuma was well known to the conquistador Cortez, who arrested him.

He was an impressive fashion figure on first formal meeting. His headdress alone was spectacular and described as including “the green upper tail coverts of the quetzal bird, the turquoise feathers of the cotinga, brown feathers from the squirrel cuckoo, pink feathers from the roseate spoonbill, and small ornaments of gold.” His mantle or cape was completely embroidered in primary colors, and the designs depended on the day, the audience and the ceremony he was attending. He rarely wore the same outfit twice, keeping a small army of embroiderers constantly busy. His outfit was completed with a loincloth and sandals – some of jaguar skin, most with jewels.

For the most solemn occasions, much of the finery was omitted, and Montezuma wore a simple loincloth and a dark cape decorated with skulls. After his arrest, Montezuma was not required to wear today’s orange jump suit but rather continued as a figurehead under Spanish rule and wore his diminishing costumes until he died of his wounds after an uprising of his former subjects.

Empress Carlota (née Princess Charlotte of Belgium) was the one and only empress of Mexico for a very short reign from 1864 to 1867. She and her husband Maximillian were placed on the throne by Napoleon III. Given their very progressive ideas about educating and raising up the Mexican populace, they were quickly deposed and Maximillian was shot.

Although the royal couple’s ideas about ruling Mexico were violently rejected, Carlota’s fashion sense was much more captivating. Given her wish to become the benefactor of “her people,” she began to combine European fashion with the costume of the hoi polloi of Mexico. Although the wide skirts and rich materials were retained, the bodice of her dresses and overskirt resembled the china poblana traditional dresses worn by Mexican women – especially on occasions celebrating Mexican identity. She also adopted the bright primary colors of Mexican dress.

Her rule was short-lived but her incorporation of Mexico’s traditional styles into high fashion has lived on. Many of the high-fashion designers of Mexico today merge traditional embroidery or decorations into ultra-modern designs. Just walk down Avenida Presidente Masaryk in CDMX today, and fashions based on Carlota’s innovations come alive.

Presidente Claudia Sheinbaum The first woman president in Mexico, who took office almost two years ago, is scrutinized for fashion as no president ever before. She uses this attention to benefit women all over Mexico. For ceremonial occasions, in addition to her presidential sash, she often wears replicas of dresses from different regions of the country including the huipil, the china poblana, the Tehuana (from Oaxaca) and the Chiapaneca. The many artisans who create and decorate her dresses are publicly noted and often find themselves swamped with orders from ordinary citizens and beyond.

Of course, given her intense meeting and travel schedule, she also slips into comfortable pants and blouses. But the styles are business-appropriate. And unlike the wives of many heads of state, she avoids expensive designer clothes and instead wears fashions that are affordable for the majority of working Mexicans.

From Pakal to Sheinbaum, the Mexican heads of state have had distinctive styles worn as political statements. Some such as Carlota and Montezuma have had ruinous careers. Some such as Pakal and hopefully Sheinbaum have made positive contributions to lives of their people. All will likely be remembered for what they wore.

Drs. Marcia and Jan Chaiken have been married for 62 years and have published many justice system research reports together.

 

 

Huatulco

5 Things: San Miguel de Allende

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By Kary Vannice

San Miguel de Allende is a picturesque city famous for its Spanish colonial architecture, colorful facades, cobblestone streets, and thriving artistic scene. Just a few hours from Mexico City, this UNESCO World Heritage Site offers a perfect blend of culture, cuisine, and relaxation. With its mix of colonial charm and modern creativity, the town provides an enchanting escape where visitors can immerse themselves in history, adventure, and natural beauty. Whether you’re an art lover, foodie, or simply seeking a memorable escape, here are five things to experience in San Miguel de Allende.

1. Stay at Casa de la Cuesta

For a truly authentic and immersive stay, book a room at Casa de la Cuesta, a charming bed and breakfast showcasing traditional Mexican architecture and décor. Located just a short walk from the town’s central plaza, you’ll be treated to photo-worthy views, comfortable accommodations, and a relaxing courtyard. Guests can enjoy traditional breakfasts featuring local ingredients and explore the in-house mask museum, a fascinating tribute to indigenous cultures.

2. Dine at Rústica

It’s a must to have breakfast or lunch at Rústica, one of San Miguel’s hidden gems. Known for its fresh, locally sourced ingredients and cozy outdoor garden ambiance, you’ll want to stay for hours, chatting with friends and sipping coffee or chai. The unique, ultra-fresh menu features breakfast pizza (my personal favorite), a mouthwatering fig, arugula, and serrano pizza, and many vegetarian and vegan options, like the popular vegan Chilaquiles. The café’s laid-back vibe and friendly service make it a local favorite.

3. Visit the Fabrica La Aurora

Art enthusiasts will love spending an afternoon at Fabrica La Aurora, a former textile factory transformed into a dynamic art and design center. The space houses galleries, studios, and shops featuring contemporary and traditional Mexican art. You’ll find paintings, sculptures, textiles, and jewelry from talented local artists, as well as interior design shops, restaurants, and cafes. Many galleries also offer workshops and art classes, providing you with the opportunity to participate in the creative vibe.

4. Take a Hot Air Balloon Ride

For a breathtaking view of San Miguel de Allende’s rolling hills and vibrant townscape, embark on a hot air balloon ride at sunrise. Floating high above the city, you’ll start your morning bathed in golden light illuminating the iconic Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel and the surrounding countryside. Many tour operators offer packages that include breakfast and a celebratory toast after your flight, making it a magical and memorable experience you’ll never forget!

5. Visit Cañada de la Virgen

Once you’ve had your fill of San Miguel’s colonial architecture, step back in time by visiting Cañada de la Virgen, a nearby ancient archaeological site. A short drive outside of the city, this Mesoamerican pyramid complex offers guided tours that provide fascinating insights into the rituals and astronomical knowledge of the Otomi people. It’s an experience that’s both educational and awe-inspiring, with spectacular views of the rolling Mexican countryside.

San Miguel de Allende has been honored multiple times by Condé Nast Traveler in its Readers’ Choice Awards. In 2024, it was named the “Best City in Mexico and the World,” marking its fifth appearance at the top of the “Best Small Cities” list.

San Miguel’s charm lies in its vibrant culture, artistic soul, and welcoming atmosphere. Whether you’re wandering through its historic streets, popping into shops and art galleries, savoring the rich flavors of the local cuisine, or sipping cocktails as the sun sets from a charming rooftop bar, every moment here feels like an unforgettable adventure. This town offers a perfect balance of relaxation and discovery, allowing you to experience its magic at your own pace.

2020

Where Foodies Can Still Get Their Kicks: A Quarantined Summer in San Miguel de Allende

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By Carole Reedy

The virus is on our minds, and frustration fills our hearts with dread. Most of the readers of The Eye are travelers, wanderers, and adventurers, so staying inside is anathema to us. Yours truly, who lives in Mexico City, struggled with the same, especially after the cancellation of a months-long Italian trip scheduled for the fall.

As a result, I opted to take refuge in San Miguel de Allende, my second home.

The tranquil pueblo of San Miguel de Allende (SMA) is just a three-and-a-half-hour drive from the hustle and bustle of the megapolis of Ciudad de Mexico, with its population of over 20 million. SMA was recently listed as the second-best city in the world by the magazine Travel + Leisure. (Oaxaca City grabbed first-place accolades, and the country of Mexico had four out of 25 mentions on the coveted list, more than any other country.)

Fearful of a bus ride filled with 30 potential virus-carrying passengers, I opted for a private car and driver from the reliable BajioGo company. It’s also possible to order a shared-car ride, but that, too, seemed a bigger risk than I wanted to take.

The deluxe bus ride is very reasonably priced at approximately US $30 a person (half that for seniors who have Mexican residency), whereas my private car was US $250. The price of a shared car/van ride depends on the number of passengers, of course. Vale la pena was my thought!

Eating in quarantine
The quarantine situation in SMA was much the same as Mexico City: stay home and wear a mask when out. No restaurants, stores other than grocery or food businesses, or hotels are open. This is scheduled to change on July 15, when the next phase takes over. Hotels are set to open at 40% capacity, as will some restaurants.

One of the attractions of San Miguel is the breadth of its international and local eateries. Like most major cities, the scrumptious food of the region can be delivered to your door or picked up. And the La Europea and Cava Sautto wine stores fortunately are open daily for your imbibing needs.

The local tortillerías are also working daily, so you can have freshly made tortillas for your tacos. The small and large fruit, vegetable, and flower markets are open too for purchasing (at drop-dead low prices) the freshest regional produce, with avocado, papaya, melón, mango, jícama, cilantro, and broccoli topping the list of the vast range of fruits and vegetables available year-round in Mexico.

For those with a kitchen in which to cook at home, in San Miguel we are fortunate to have a grocery store right in centro.

Bonanza has graced the street of Mesones for many years. It’s a favorite of the gringos due to its range of imported items, including sweet relish, horseradish, and New Zealand butter. They also carry delicious homemade yogurt and ice cream. There’s a deli section and a back room with a variety of spices and nuts. The prices are higher than the La Comer just outside of town, but the convenience is incomparable. My favorite purchase is the pickled herring in a jar, an item I have trouble finding even in Mexico City. I would shy away from buying wine here though. The prices are often double that of La Europea or Cava Sautto.

If you’d rather not cook, let me recommend some take-out/delivery options. I’m finding comfort foods more satisfying these days than the fancy “tasting” options many restaurants are offering.

Let’s start with a brimming bowl of pozole. On the Ancha San Antonio, at # 35, you will find Victoria’s, a tiny restaurant hidden among the larger venues that sell Mexican artesanías (handcrafts). There are just a few tables inside and you’ll wait just a few minutes for your take-out order of green or red pozole, chicken or pork. Accompanying your large or small portion are fried tortillas and the fixings to top your pozole: lettuce, radish, and red onion.

Hecho in Mexico, at Ancha San Antonio, # 8, is a favorite among both the gringo crowd and Mexicans due to the highly consistent quality of each item on the menu. The variety of selections is staggering: everything from enchiladas and tacos to hamburgers, salads, soups, and (my personal favorite) the Reuben sandwich. This is a large, mostly outdoor venue, which makes it ideal for social distancing.

Il Castello Ristorante Pizzeria, at Animas 20, serves the real thing when it comes to Italian food at reasonable prices. There is fabulous pizza, stromboli, calzones, and the best eggplant and chicken parmesan around (a personal favorite). Small seating area only, but like all other restaurants, they are prepared to give you take-out. The portions are ample and the location is easy, just up from the market at the Plaza Cívica on the charming street of Animas.

Garambullo, at Animas 46, just down the street from Il Castello, serves breakfast and lunch only in a beautiful courtyard. It’s been described as a small jewel in the midst of the hustle-bustle of the nearby market. Garambullo, by the way, is a Mexican fruit that has many healthy properties, and the restaurant reflects its name in the quality of their food. There are salads, eggs dishes, beans, sandwiches, and enchiladas, all made from the freshest ingredients.

La Parada, at Recreo 94. During normal times you need a reservation for seating at this popular spot featuring Peruvian food. Of course, you must start by sipping a tart Pisco Sour. Follow it with a meal choice from the variety of seafood and wonderful pork dishes, including a yummy pork sandwich, a favorite of many friends. Portions are ample and all very fresh. The waitstaff is exceptional, which makes every visit a special occasion.

Buenos Aires Bistro, at Mesones 62, serves some of the best steaks, arrachera, and lamb chops in town. My personal favorite is the polenta with vegetables or pork; another friend always orders the octopus salad. It is a charming restaurant just steps from the Jardín.

Zenteno, at Hernandez Macías 136, has by far the best coffee in town. That and their breakfast pastries are served daily in this miniscule space with just four tables. You might find yourself alone in here during these pandemic days, but during normal times you’d see many happy patrons on their iPads sipping coffees. One day I even spotted Robert Reich, the American economist, in a quiet corner. I buy my freshly ground coffee here by the kilo.

Tostévere, at Codo 4, is known for their tostadas. Forget your image of a Mexican tostada because here they create their own version of the popular Mexican dish. The chef and staff present a small menu, but it’s filled with unique variations on the traditional tostada. Think octopus, soft-shelled crab, corn, a variety of vegetables, and carpaccio, all served in a manner you’ve not experienced before. There’s a full bar with a variety of popular cocktails and a friendly, knowledgeable staff.

Whether dining out or in, you’re sure to find variety, quality, atmosphere, and charm in this small yet grande colonial city of Mexico. Come visit when you feel comfortable traveling.