Tag Archives: grapes

Bonjour, Baja! French Grapes Thrive in Valle de Guadalupe

By Melissa Lyon—

If you have yet to visit Mexico’s Valle de Guadalupe, imagine a sun-washed valley framed by rounded granite hills, dotted with olive trees, vineyards, and the occasional architectural winery that looks like it belongs in a design magazine. Located about 20 kilometers northeast of Ensenada in Baja California, the valley enjoys a Mediterranean-style climate: warm sunny days, cool nights, and refreshing Pacific air drifting inland from the coast. These conditions are ideal for wine grapes, which thrive on sunshine but depend on cool evenings to maintain balance and acidity. Winemaking here dates back centuries to Spanish missionaries who planted vines for sacramental wine. Today the valley produces the majority of Mexico’s wine and has become one of the most exciting wine regions in North America; part agricultural valley, part culinary playground, and part weekend escape for thirsty oenophiles.

In the past twenty years, the valley has transformed from a quiet farming area into a thriving wine destination. More than a hundred wineries now adorn the hills, ranging from rustic family vineyards to sleek architectural showpieces with Michelin-worthy restaurants attached. The growth is not only in numbers but also in reputation. Mexican wines from Baja California now appear on restaurant lists around the world and frequently win international awards. Pioneering producers such as Monte Xanic helped launch this quality revolution in the late 1980s, demonstrating that Baja California could produce wines capable of holding their own on the international stage. As Monte Xanic founder Hans Backhoff would explain, the mission was simple: create the best wine possible in Mexico. Judging by the packed tasting rooms and enthusiastic wine tourists who now flock to the valley each year, that mission is well underway.

Any discussion of Guadalupe Valley wine inevitably leads to the grapes themselves, and here the French connection becomes clear. Many of the region’s most successful grape varieties originate in France. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, and Sauvignon Blanc have all found a comfortable home in Baja’s sun-drenched vineyards. These grapes thrive in the valley’s dry climate and mineral-rich soils, producing wines that combine bold fruit flavors with refreshing acidity. Several notable wineries craft blends inspired directly by famous French regions. At Bodegas Magoni, for example, the lineup includes both Bordeaux-inspired and Burgundy-inspired wines.

During a recent conversation with The Eye Magazine, Mónica Magoni, daughter of veteran winemaker Camillo Magoni, reflected on the valley’s deep relationship with French grapes. “We have all those French varieties,” she explained. “We produce a Bordeaux blend and a Burgundy blend as well. We have Chardonnay. The French varieties have adapted greatly in our region.” According to Magoni, the valley’s climate, quite different from French wine regions, plays a major role in that success. “It’s very Mediterranean-like,” she noted, adding that the grapes have gradually developed their own local personality. “The French varieties have adapted greatly to the Valley and have developed their own characteristics.” In other words, the vines may have come from France, but after a few decades under the Baja sun, they’ve become naturalized residents.

French influence in the valley extends beyond the grapes themselves. Many winemakers here have studied in Europe or adopted classic French cellar techniques. Careful fermentation, precise blending, and patient aging are common practices. One of the most recognizable French touches appears in the cellar: oak barrels. Wines aged in French oak gain subtle aromas of vanilla, toast, and spice, while the wood gently softens the wine’s tannins. The result is a style often described as structured and balanced, closer to the elegance of European wines than the bold, fruit-forward style often associated with California. As Camillo Magoni has noted, Baja producers keep an eye on what’s happening in traditional wine regions such as France and Italy while still striving to express the distinctive character of their own terroir. The result is a wine culture that borrows freely from European traditions while embracing Baja’s rugged landscape and sunshine.

Naturally, the best way to appreciate all this Old-World inspiration and Baja creativity is to open a bottle. A great starting point is Bodegas Magoni itself. Among their standout wines is the Sauvignon Blanc “Clone 22” from the Magoni Reserva line. A bright, refreshing white with citrus aromas and crisp acidity, Mónica Magoni describes it as one of her personal favorites. Another recommendation from Magoni is “Manaz,” an intriguing white blend made from 80% Viognier and 20% Fiano. She particularly enjoys it chilled on a hot afternoon, when its floral aromas and soft stone-fruit flavors feel wonderfully refreshing. Both wines typically retail in the range of $400–$550 MXN, depending on the vintage and where you purchase them.

Red wine lovers might explore bottles from Monte Xanic, whose Cabernet Sauvignon delivers notes of blackcurrant, cocoa, and toasted oak. Bottles generally sell for about $750–$850 MXN, while their flagship Gran Ricardo blend, created in 1994, can exceed $2,000 MXN. Meanwhile, historic producer Bodegas Domecq offers the Reserva Magna red blend, built on Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, for roughly $750–$850 MXN.

What makes the Guadalupe Valley so fascinating is the way it bridges continents. French grapes, European techniques, and Mexican creativity come together in a landscape that feels both ancient and brand new. And really, that’s the joy of wine. It travels across oceans, crosses cultures, and evolves with every generation of winemakers.

So the next time you’re selecting a bottle for dinner, consider looking north to the Guadalupe Valley, where the French influence isn’t imitation, it’s inspiration. And the wines are distinctly, delightfully Mexican.

¡Salud! A Toast to The Vineyards of Mexico

By Carole Reedy

Twenty years ago on our tranquil Oaxaca coast, wine imbibers had two choices: a liter box (the same container in which one finds milk) of red Don Simon for 17 pesos ($1.70 USD at the time) or an hourglass liter of red or white Padre Kino. To this day, I still keep one of those empty bottles to use for water or flowers.

Times have changed. Mexico has long been known for its beer and tequila, preferred beverages of locals and tourists alike. But now wines imported from Chile, Argentina, Spain, France, Australia, and the US are available in most places, even outside the big cities of Mexico, Monterrey, and Guadalajara.

More significant is our access to fine wines directly from the local vineyards that dot the Mexican states of Guanajuato, Querétaro, Baja California, and Coahuila. Fewer restrictions than some other countries, good climate, and the variety of grapes, styles, and blends make Mexico a grape-growing paradise. Most of Mexico’s grapes are of Spanish and French origin: Syrah, Cabernet, Malbec, and Chardonnay.

It’s important to note that wine production is not new to Mexico. Hernán Cortés and the Spaniards started growing and harvesting grapes in the 1500s. In fact, Cortés ordered the colonists to plant a minimum of 1000 grapevines per year. Mexican wines became so popular that in 1699, the Spanish Crown, threatened by the success and competition from France and Mexico, stopped production here. Only the Jesuits and other religious orders were allowed to continue making wine for sacramental purposes during this hiatus. The industry was finally revived and refined after the Mexican War of Independence (1810-21), and since has earned respectable status among the world’s finest wines.

In addition to our access to local wines, we can tour vineyards and enjoy a tasting, often accompanied by those tempting tapas. Here are a few of the best of the vineyards that are easy to locate for travelers and residents alike. Each has a variety of wine tours and tastings. It’s best to view your options on the individual websites; most require reservations.

BAJA CALIFORNIA

The 1000-mile long peninsula of Baja California is known predominately for its southern region (Baja Sur) that houses the beach resorts of Cabo San Lucas and Todos Santos. But the region of the North, the larger area of the two, provides a variety of entertainment for visitors and residents alike. Not only are there the beaches of Ensenada, there is also the vibrant city of Tijuana that always seems to get a bad rap.

I have fond memories of Tijuana weekends filled with Sunday afternoon corridas de toros, Saturday night jai alai games, and fish tacos. Just to the south of Ensenada, you’ll find the home of the finest wines of Mexico.

The Valle de Guadalupe has been called the Napa Valley of Mexico due to its commercial success throughout the world. Ninety percent of Mexican wine and half the country’s wineries are from these areas west of the Sierra Mountains that divide the Baja Península. The Pacific Ocean provides the cool breeze for the warm peninsula and its grapes.

Monte Xanic vineyard derives its name from the indigenous word xanic, which means “flower that sprouts after the rain.” The vineyard is located 15 kilometers from the Pacific Coast and 400 meters above sea level, the ideal Mediterranean climate for growing grapes.

In the three decades that elapsed between 1987 and 2017, Monte Xanic managed to position itself as a prestigious brand, especially for easy-consumption young wines, the demand for which is growing.

The vineyard uses computerized irrigation, with sensors located among the roots of the vines to measure humidity levels and the need for water.

The vineyard uses computerized irrigation, with sensors located among the roots of the vines to measure humidity levels and the need for water.

The water used by Monte Xanic comes from several wells in the region. First, water from each well is tested for salinity and then conducted separately to an artificial lake, where further quality control occurs, again focused especially on salt concentrations, ensuring optimum quality water for the vineyards.

Harvesting both whites and reds, Monte Xanic wines range in price from 300 pesos per bottle and up. The reasonably priced Calixa Syrah complements Mexican food, such as tacos arrachera, cecina, and sopes.

L.A. Cetto vineyard, a nearby neighbor, was founded in 1928 by Angelo Cetto, who used the methods he learned in his native Trentino, Italy. Three generations of the family have continued the tradition.

There are several valleys where these vineyards are located: Valle de Guadalupe, Valle Redondo, San Vincente, San Antonio de la Minas, and Tecate. L.A. Cetto is a popular wine in Mexico, very reasonably priced and readily available in restaurants and retail stores alike (probably including your local grocery store!).

Both of these viñedos provide visitors with tours and tastings. If you have never experienced a tasting or tour and you’re a wine drinker, you will discover many interesting aspects and fact about wines. And the tours in Mexico provide that extra warmth that only Mexicans bring to a gathering.

PARRAS, COAHUILA

Casa Madero, dating from 1597, boasts the oldest vineyard in Mexico and is home to one of the most-awarded wines in Mexico. They produce my personal favorite red, Casa Madero 3V (three grape varieties: Cabernet, Merlot, and Tempranillo). For white wine lovers, the Chardonnay is a crisp delight.

The city of Parras, Coahuila, is located in the northeast corner of Mexico, 150 km from both Saltillo and Torreón. It’s considered one of Mexico’s Pueblos Mágicos due to its gastronomy, artesanias (handcrafts), and cultural contributions to the country. It is also a part of the country that, while close to the US border, is not swarming with tourists and thus is a welcome respite for adventurers.

The area and winery have fascinating histories. It seems that even during prohibition they continued with wine production, probably in cooperation with the religious entities.

The vineyards, restaurant, and the accompanying Hacienda San Lorenzo are accessible by advance reservation only, and it appears the beautiful hacienda is available to groups only.

GUANAJUATO

The charming colonial town of San Miguel de Allende has so much to offer tourists, not only within the cobblestone city, but also just minutes outside it.

Close by, on the road from San Miguel de Allende to Dolores Hidalgo (km 73), you’ll find the popular Tres Raíces (Three Roots) Vinatería. Friends of mine recently spent a day enjoying the hospitality of the owner and staff, returning with rave reviews of the tour, wines, and excellent tapas.

The viñedo also houses a charming boutique hotel and a restaurant in case you want the full getaway experience into the world of wines.

QUERÉTARO

The areas surrounding the cities of Querétaro and Tequisquiapan are known as La Ruta de Queso y Vino as you will find several notable vineyards here. There are many organized tours out of each of these cities, Querétaro being the larger and more famous of the two, with Tequisquiapan the small charming pueblo, chock full of artesanias. Whichever place you decide to make your base, you will find it easy to explore both the wines and cheeses made in the area. There are different types of organized tours ranging from horseback, tranvía (trolley), walking, and the like, or you can rent a car to explore on your own.

Not only is this area the route of wine and cheese, historically the Bajío – the lowland plain of west central Mexico, is the cradle of the Mexican struggle for freedom that culminated in the War of Independence, making it a treasure trove of history that can be studied in the museums and tours of the cities of Querétaro, San Miguel de Allende, and Dolores Hidalgo.

Finca Sala Vivé by Freixnet México: Are you a sparkling wine fan? This is the place to experience a tour and tasting of that special “bubbly” that adds spark to all occasions. Finca Sala Vivé is the major producer of sparkling wines in Mexico, which it accomplishes through traditional methods. As with all the vineyards, you can buy the wines you taste by the bottle to take home to share with friends.

La Redonda is one of the most frequented vineyards, but don’t let that put you off. It is popular for a reason, and there are never crowds. You will experience the personal attention that characterizes all the tours and wineries in this region.

One plus of La Redonda is the value of their wines. Their prices fall into a very reasonable range for those of us who imbibe daily, and I find their wines to be readily available in many locations in the country, not just in this region.

These vineyards and wines offer a good idea of the state of wine in Mexico. Prices can vary dramatically, and people often are surprised that the Mexican wines can be even pricier than some French wines. Wine prices, like everything else these days, are only rising, in some part due to peso devaluation. I find that when I dine in a restaurant, my glass of wine is often more expensive than my friend’s margarita. But,“Así es la vida! Disfrútala!”