Tag Archives: diego rivera

The Emperor’s Ghost in the Mural: The French Connection to Mexican Muralism

By Randy Jackson—

On June 19, 1867, on a hill outside Querétaro called the Hill of the Bells, Emperor Maximilian, appointed by Napoleon III to rule a country that had never wanted him, faced a firing squad. His execution reverberated through Mexican and European history. Yet how that moment was understood was shaped not by those who witnessed it, but by those who painted it. In Europe, that response was immediate. In Mexico, it would take decades, passing through a classroom, before it found its voice on the great public walls of the Revolution.

In Paris, Édouard Manet’s series of paintings on the execution, collectively known as The Execution of Emperor Maximilian, demonstrated the power of art to shape historical memory. Painted from written accounts, they portrayed the event as a condemnation of Napoleon III’s imperial folly and were subsequently banned. In Mexico, the effects were slower and paradoxical. The execution did not silence Maximilian’s court painter; it freed him to walk into a classroom and change the course of Mexican art.
When Maximilian’s court collapsed, his retinue fled to the coast. One man, however, walked in the opposite direction, not toward a ship, but toward a classroom in the Mexican National Academy of Fine Arts.

Santiago Rebull
That man was Santiago Rebull, the official court painter to Emperor Maximilian, appointed to use art as an instrument of imperial legitimacy, to make a foreign emperor look like he belonged.

Rebull was born in 1829 to a Catalan father and a Mexican mother. His talent was recognized early. He won first place at the Academy of San Carlos in 1851 with his painting La Muerte de Abel. That victory earned him a scholarship to study in Rome, where he spent seven years, and what he learned there would shape Mexican art, passing through his hands to the students who would later paint the Revolution.

In Rome, at a Catholic arts school, he learned the techniques and principles of the Nazarene Movement. The Nazarenes believed art should serve a moral or religious purpose, and their major project was to revive the medieval art of fresco painting. It was a tradition built for walls, designed to tell stories to anyone who stood before them.

Rebull returned to Mexico in 1859 and, within two years, had risen to Director of the Academy of San Carlos. In 1865, he painted the official portrait of Emperor Maximilian – Retrato de Maximiliano. The Emperor was so pleased that he appointed Rebull as court painter and awarded him the Order of Guadalupe, the Empire’s highest honour.

Within two years, the firing squad on the Hill of the Bells ended that empire. Rebull returned to the classroom carrying everything Europe — and the Empire — had taught him.

The Protégé: Rivera at San Carlos
Diego Rivera was born in Guanajuato in 1886, nineteen years after the firing squad on the Hill of the Bells. When he arrived at the National Academy of Fine Arts at San Carlos as a student at the age of ten, Santiago Rebull was still teaching there.

As director of the Academy and as an instructor who took personal interest in the young Rivera’s progress, Rebull brought his influence to bear beyond technique. He transmitted the Nazarene conviction that scale gave art its purpose. Frescoes were consequential, not just because of their size, but because their ambitions were monumental. Art was meant to instruct, to elevate, to speak to anyone who stood before it. Not for palace staterooms, but for the public walls.

As important as Rebull was to the painting style Rivera came to create, there were two other notable instructors at the Fine Arts Academy of San Carlos.

Félix Parra was a trailblazer in depicting Mexico’s pre-Hispanic past with the dignity usually reserved for emperors. Parra’s painting, Episodes of the Conquest, depicted the brutality of the Spanish conquest of the Aztecs. For a young Rivera, it was likely the first time he saw Mexican history treated as something proud and worthy of monumental art.

The other notable instructor was José María Velasco, arguably the greatest landscape painter in Mexican history. With paintings like The Valley of Mexico from the Hill of Santa Isabel, Velasco taught Rivera how to organize a massive, sprawling horizon into a coherent, balanced composition. It was a skill that would serve Rivera well when his canvas became walls and mountains and valleys were replaced by the epic history of Mexico.

By the time Rivera left the Academy at the age of twenty, he had spent half his life under the tutelage of these old masters. He had become a formidable talent recognized by these men, significant artists in their own right. Rebull famously remarked of his student: “He draws as well as I do, and he has a better sense of colour.”
But his education was not finished. Like Rebull before him, Rivera left for Europe on a Mexican government scholarship, spending years in Spain, France and Italy. What he found there, the Cubists of Paris, the great fresco cycles of the Italian Renaissance, only deepened what Rebull had taught him.

The art that would come to define Mexican national identity, defiant, indigenous, and revolutionary, returned home with Diego Rivera. Mexico gained something unexpected from the defeat of the French-appointed emperor. Hidden in plain sight on those great public walls, in the very conviction that art belonged to the people who stood before it, was the ghost of a court painter who had once made a foreign emperor look like he belonged.

Randy Jackson blends local reporting from the perspective of a seasonal Huatulco resident with explorations of life and change in Huatulco, Oaxaca and Mexico.

Mexico City’s Best Kept Secret: The “Other” Diego Rivera Murals

By Carole Reedy—

They really aren’t a secret, per se, as they appear in just about every guidebook’s top-ten list. But even though they’re located in mero Centro Histórico, in the building of the Secretaría de Educación Pública (República de Argentina 28), just a block from the Templo Mayor, this series of Rivera murals is often missed by visitors and residents alike. Even by foreigners who have lived in the megalopolis for more than 40 years!

It’s quite a mystery, and one for which I don’t have a sensible answer. Upon seeing the murals for the first time, “Why have I never seen these before?” is a common response.

Just a few blocks away sits the National Palace, housing Rivera’s famous sweeping mural (1929–35), which hugs the grand staircase and continues along the second-floor corridors. Rivera began work on the murals in the Education Building in 1923, completing the project in 1928. The building itself occupies a former convent complex dating from the colonial period.

Today, the building is home to the Museo Vivo del Muralismo, which opened in 2024 following restoration work. Visitors can explore the murals and additional exhibition spaces Wednesday through Monday, from 10 am to 6 pm. Admission is free. Unlike the old government-building arrangement, the museum now welcomes visitors on weekends. Check current arrangements before setting out, particularly on holidays.

At the Secretaría de Educación building, dozens of Diego Rivera murals flow across three floors, enough to put visitors in a tizzy. Take your time to view them all. The ground floor is dedicated largely to the traditions and daily lives of the people of Mexico, including religious and political festivals. The second level explores themes of work, knowledge and social life. On the third level, my favorite, you’ll find powerful images of labor and revolutionary struggles.

A red ribbon floats above a series of murals where the sentiments of revolutionary corridos are written, including The Ballad of Zapata, Agrarian Revolution of 1910 and Thus Will Be the Proletarian Revolution. The allegorical murals are a scathing criticism of the rich and opponents of the Revolution. Favorites include The Arsenal, depicting Frida Kahlo distributing arms to revolutionaries, and another showing a fancy dinner party where wealthy diners are served gold.

When you visit the murals in the Secretaría de Educación, I highly recommend you start or complete your visit at El Mayor terrace restaurant, just half a block away, at the corner of Donceles and República de Argentina. This seems to be another spot overlooked by both tourists and residents of Mexico.

The terrace itself is located above a large Porrúa bookstore. Find the elevator that will take you directly to the restaurant. Here you can sip a glass of wine or cappuccino while enjoying a relaxing breakfast or lunch and contemplating the Templo Mayor Aztec ruins below, with the Zócalo just beyond.

Looking to the right, the view is dominated by the huge cathedral the Spanish built near the ruins of the Aztec ceremonial precinct, an architectural imposition repeated throughout Mexico. (On one of your visits to this most diverse of countries, be sure to head toward Cholula, Puebla, where you can visit the church above ground and explore the ancient pyramid beneath it.)

Diego Rivera is one of the best-known and most renowned muralists of the twentieth century. His works are recognized as masterpieces depicting the lives and struggles of Mexican people. While studying in Europe, he was influenced by Cubism as well as the murals of Italy. The Mexican and Russian Revolutions were passions of Rivera and his famous wife, Frida Kahlo. Rivera’s murals grew out of these political convictions and the couple’s involvement in Communism.

A visit to the National Palace, located on the Zócalo, is also worthwhile when public access is available. Visits to Rivera’s murals may require advance registration and can be affected by official activities, so confirm arrangements before going. Here the painted history of Mexico and the struggles of the Mexican people line the stairway to the second floor, where the murals continue. The blend of colors, both bright and muted, the details of the faces and the rolling landscapes transport you to different periods in the turbulent history of the country.

The Palacio de Bellas Artes houses one of Rivera’s most famous murals, Man, Controller of the Universe, painted in 1934. This work reimagines the mural commissioned by the Rockefeller family and destroyed in New York after controversy erupted over Rivera’s inclusion of Communist leader Vladimir Lenin.

Frida’s Blue House in the neighborhood of Coyoacán is a tourist’s delight, filled with her and Diego’s paintings, personal rooms and her studio. She and Diego lived here for many years, as did Leon Trotsky for a short period before moving to another home just a few blocks away. Be sure to visit Trotsky’s home, too, the place where he was assassinated. Advance tickets are recommended for the Blue House.

In the neighboring colonia of San Ángel, near the San Ángel Inn, Rivera’s art studio and the adjoining houses of Frida and Diego are open to visitors. You may recall that at one point in the topsy-turvy relationship of the pair, they lived in separate houses connected by a bridge.

Regardless of how often you visit Ciudad de México, something new awaits, very often just around the corner.

Visitor information: Museo Vivo del Muralismo, República de Argentina 28, Centro Histórico. museovivodelmuralismo.sep.gob.mx