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San Miguel de Allende

From Bordeaux to the Bajío: The French Roots of Querétaro Wine

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By Jane Bauer—

About an hour from San Miguel de Allende, the vineyards of Querétaro stretch across a high, dry plateau that doesn’t immediately read as wine country. There are no rolling green hills or centuries-old estates. Instead, the landscape is open, sun-exposed, and shaped by a very different set of conditions. And yet, this region has become one of the most important wine-producing areas in Mexico, with a foundation that traces directly back to France.

Much of Mexico’s modern wine industry is built on French grape varieties. In Querétaro, that means Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah, among others. These grapes were introduced as winemakers looked to established European models—particularly French—for structure, consistency, and quality. Over time, they became standard across many regions in Mexico, including this one.

What’s interesting is how those grapes perform here. Querétaro sits at a higher altitude than many people expect, often above 1,800 meters. The days are warm and dry, with strong sun, but the nights cool down significantly. That shift in temperature slows the ripening process and helps preserve acidity in the grapes. It’s one of the key factors that gives wines from this region their balance.

The soils also play a role. In parts of Querétaro, they are mineral-rich and well-draining, which forces the vines to work a little harder. That stress can translate into more concentrated flavors in the fruit. It’s not an easy environment, but it’s one that can produce very precise results when managed well.

One of the defining features of Querétaro’s wine scene is its focus on sparkling wine. The region has become known for wines made using the traditional method—the same process used in Champagne, where a second fermentation takes place in the bottle. This method is labor-intensive and requires careful control, but it produces wines with fine bubbles and a clean, structured profile.

The climate in Querétaro supports this style. The preserved acidity in the grapes makes them particularly well-suited for sparkling production. Over the past couple of decades, several wineries have focused on refining this approach, and the region now has a reputation for it. It’s not an attempt to recreate Champagne, but it clearly draws from the same technical foundation.

That said, the wines here are not French in identity. The influence is there in the grapes and the methods, but the outcome reflects local conditions. The intensity of the sun, the dryness of the air, and the elevation all shape the final product. There’s also a different mindset at play. Many Mexican winemakers are less constrained by tradition, which allows for experimentation alongside more classical styles.
You’ll see that in the range of wines being produced. Alongside structured reds and sparkling wines, there are blends, rosés, and small-batch projects that don’t always follow a strict model. Some producers are working with international consultants; others are entirely self-taught. It’s a mix of approaches, and that variety is part of what defines the region right now.

For visitors, Querétaro is relatively easy to navigate. There are established wine routes with clusters of wineries, tasting rooms, and restaurants open to the public. The infrastructure is there, but it hasn’t tipped into overdevelopment. Many of the wineries are still small to mid-sized operations, and it’s common to find yourself speaking directly with the people involved in the production.

A typical visit might include a tasting, a walk through the vineyard, and a meal on-site. Some places are more polished than others, but the overall experience tends to feel accessible. You can visit multiple wineries in a day without it becoming overly structured or commercial.

For those based in San Miguel de Allende, the region feels close—both geographically and culturally. It fits into the same broader landscape of central Mexico, where outside influences have been absorbed and reinterpreted over time. Just as San Miguel reflects layers of history and migration, the wine in Querétaro reflects a similar process.

French grapes, introduced through a long history of exchange, are now rooted in Mexican soil. The techniques may come from elsewhere, but the results are shaped here. It’s not about replication. It’s about adaptation.

And that’s what makes Querétaro worth paying attention to.

Huatulco

Drinking Water in Mexico

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By Marcia Chaiken and Jan Chaiken

“Can I drink the water?” is a common question asked by tourists and travelers in Mexico. Decades ago, in the early 1970’s, in Mexico, as in many other places in the world, the answer was generally, “Stick to soda or beer right from the bottle.” At that time during our early visits to Mexico. “And what about ice?” we would ask, as many tourists still do. “Never drink liquor or soft drinks with ice,” we were advised.

The penalty for not heeding this advice often occurred a few hours later. The dreaded travelers’ diarrhea variously called Montezuma’s revenge (or other names such as Delhi Belly according to location), and accompanied with cramps and necessitating frequent trips to the bathroom, felled many visitors. Sometimes the cause was bacterial or viral contamination in the water or ice, but frequently the cause was simply that the concentration of minerals in the water was different from what was customary to the travelers’ gastrointestinal tracts. You may have noticed this if you have welcomed visitors from Mexico to the United States or Canada, and they experienced similar symptoms.

The Garrafon – Bottled Water, Better Water

Over time, the questions about drinking water stayed the same in Mexico, but the answers changed. Perhaps the largest shift in the question and answer for drinking water occurred in the late 1980’s and throughout the 1990’s, when bottled water became available and popular throughout Mexico and the larger world. The sight of garrafones – large water jugs – filled with purified water and outfitted with a hand pump became ubiquitous in the kitchens and common areas of hotels and rental units. Ice was frozen from garrafon water in small inns, and hotels purchased large bags of ice made from purified water. A covered pitcher of water from a garrafon with a couple of glasses were often left on tourists’ bedside tables.

But then the plastic-bottle craze swept the world. From small bottles of purified water that barely quenched an ordinary thirst to large bottles that required herculean strength to transport, drinking water gradually filled many shelves in tiny bodegas in rural villages and in huge city supermarkets.

Drink Enough to Avoid Dehydration

Today, advice about drinking water in Mexico is generally “Drink water with every meal and whenever you’re thirsty – but leave the single-use plastic bottles on the shelf.” This advice is based primarily on two factors: the health of the humans drinking the water and the health of the planet. Over 60% of our bodies are composed of water. Water is needed by virtually every organ in our bodies. We are constantly eliminating water from our bodies in trips to the bathroom and between (by perspiring and breathing). We need to replenish our water levels frequently in warm climates. Even a minor lack of water or dehydration can result in very unpleasant symptoms – headaches, cramps, and even high fevers.

Travelers to Mexico who arrive by plane should be aware that they are likely to arrive dehydrated unless they take full advantage of the free purified water served on the plane. The very low humidity onboard and the difference in air pressure act to deplete the water in bodies. Drinking alcohol has a diuretic effect (more frequent trips to the bathroom) and further dehydration. So seriously consider asking the cabin attendants for agua rather than cerveza or vino. And when they come through the aisles with cups of water, grab one. You’ll feel much better when you land fully hydrated.

Upon reaching your Mexico vacation destination, keep drinking water. Although a common assumption is that adults need eight glasses each day, there’s actually a range of individual needs determined by gender, body weight, health status and notably environment. Obviously high temperatures result in more perspiration – so if you’re vacationing in Mexico’s wonderful beach towns and resorts or exploring architectural ruins in the jungle, you’ll need to drink more water (unless you ordinarily live in a tropical climate). High altitudes also lead to fast water elimination, so if you’re in Mexico City or another mountainous area, your drinking water needs will also increase. Exactly how much you should drink is not easily answered, but drinking enough water can be simply gauged by paying attention to how frequently you’re thirsty. If you find you’re often thirsty, start drinking more and more frequently until you find you’re rarely experiencing a dry mouth and throat.

Don’t worry about drinking too much water; cases of water toxicity (hyponatremia) are extremely rare in healthy people and have been mainly attributable to athletes who have decided to dramatically increase their water intake to as much as 6 liters in three hours before a race. You can monitor whether you’re under- or overdoing the drinking water by the color of your pee: if it’s a deep yellow, drink more; if it’s almost clear, drink less. On the other hand, excessive perspiration and more frequent urination can result in an imbalance of salt and other minerals essential for life – easy to remedy by taking a daily vitamin/mineral pill and if needed downing a bottle of electrolyte water available in most Mexican supermarkets – but given the sugar or other sweeteners added, it’s best not to make a habit of electrolyte water.

You’re Good, But All Those Plastic Bottles???

Okay, you’re convinced to drink more water in Mexico. But where can you get a safe supply? For the sake of the health of the world, please don’t get your needed daily intake of drinking water from the little plastic bottles supplied by many hotels in Mexico, sold in restaurants and stocked in an obvious place in many Mexican groceries. One good environmental way of handling your water needs is to bring your own empty water bottle; after you’ve passed through security, head to the nearest water fountain and fill your bottle for drinking after you’ve landed and before you reach your lodging. At top-tier hotels and restaurants you can almost always be sure the water served is safe to drink and ice is made from purified water –and you can ask your server to refill your water bottle for when you’re off to the beach or a day trip.

Staying Good with the Water

If you’re not sure about the water in your less expensive hotel – use their garrafon or head to the nearest market and buy the biggest bottle of water you can carry back to your room. The larger the bottle, the less expensive the water per milliliter and the greater chance the bottle can be recycled. There are many reputable brands such as Bonafont, Ciel and Epura, owned by Coca-Cola.

If you’re staying in a condo – ask the owner about the quality of water. If it can’t be guaranteed as safe, the owner will likely provide a garrafon of water – sometimes at an extra cost but a worthwhile expense. If you’re staying in an area that was developed by FONATUR (the federal agency in charge of increasing tourism), chances are a water purification system was set up for the whole area. Where we stay in Huatulco, not only is there municipal water purification but the condo association has its own secondary purification system, and the refrigerator water dispenser has a filter – so we’re largely independent of store-purchased water.

If you’re planning on traveling to rural undeveloped areas in Mexico – places where water comes from a river where clothes are washed, people bathe, and sewage seeps in, bring packs of your favorite teas and just drink water that has been boiled. No need to ask for ice because there’s probably none to be found. But if you’re vacationing in the many beautiful places in Mexico where foreigners usually hang out, enjoy your margaritas and cervezas but remember – in addition to the good-time drinks, be sure to drink water.

 

Huatulco

Mexican Wines

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By Jane Bauer

Mexico has a growing wine industry that’s capturing the attention of oenophiles worldwide. Back in 2006 there were only 25 commercial wineries, today there are over 120. While the country’s wine production dates back to the 16th century, only recently have Mexican wines gained international recognition

A Historical Journey
The history of Mexican wine begins with the Spanish colonization in the early 1500s. Spanish settlers brought grapevines to the New World, and the first vineyards were established in what is now the state of Coahuila. Casa Madero, founded in 1597 in this region, is the oldest winery in the Americas and still produces wine today. Despite its early start, Mexico’s wine industry faced numerous challenges, including prohibitive laws imposed by the Spanish crown to protect their domestic wine markets.

The Wine Regions of Mexico
Modern Mexican wine production is concentrated primarily in the Baja California Peninsula, particularly the Valle de Guadalupe. This region, often referred to as the Napa Valley of Mexico, benefits from a Mediterranean climate and diverse soil conditions, ideal for growing a variety of grape varietals. Here, wineries produce exceptional wines that rival those from more established wine-producing countries.

Other notable wine regions include:
-Querétaro: Known for its sparkling wines, this central region’s high altitude and cool climate provide perfect conditions for grape cultivation.
-Coahuila: With a winemaking history spanning over four centuries, this region produces robust reds and crisp whites.
-Guanajuato: Emerging as a significant player in the Mexican wine scene, this area offers a mix of traditional and innovative wine styles.

Mexican winemakers cultivate both international and indigenous grape varietals, resulting in a diverse and intriguing wine portfolio. Common varietals include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Chardonnay, but Mexico also produces unique blends that showcase the country’s terroir. Tempranillo, Zinfandel, and Nebbiolo have found a distinctive expression in Mexican soils, creating wines that are bold, flavorful, and distinctly Mexican.

The Future of Mexican Wine
The Mexican wine industry is on a path of rapid growth and innovation. Winemakers are embracing sustainable practices, experimenting with new techniques, and focusing on quality over quantity. This dedication to excellence is earning Mexican wines a place on the global stage, with increasing numbers of bottles gracing the shelves of international wine shops and restaurants.

A couple of my favorites:
Fume Blanc from LA Cetto, Valle de Guadalupe- this light and crisp dry white is an excellent price point and perfect for a summer dinner.
Tablas from Taller Agrico, Valle de Guadalupe- this complex red is a blend of tempranillo, grenache and petite sirah. It is an unfiltered wine from a smaller producer and has a very smooth finish.

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The New Global Love Affair with a Mexican Spirit

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By Alvin Starkman, M.A., J.D.

Not since the advent of the Margarita in the mid-20th century, has the world been taken by storm by a Mexican alcoholic beverage – but here we are, in the age of mezcal. Of course, we still have tequila, and there are now other spirits being exported from Mexico, including rum and whisky. But it’s mezcal, tequila’s older sister and also an agave distillate, that is receiving global attention. But why, aside from the internet, which reshapes our universe second by second?

Here are a few thoughts.

  1. It all began around 1995, with the arrival of two brands, Del Maguey and Scorpion. The former aimed at attracting a select imbibing audience, that is, spirits aficionados, while the latter sought to pique the interest of mainstream America. Over the past quarter century each has spawned a plethora of other mezcal brands.
  2. It’s been in large part due to the portrayed romanticism of every step of the process: indigenous Mexicans harvesting agave hearts (piñas) from the field by hand and transporting them to their family distilleries on the sides of mules; converting carbohydrates to sugars through baking the agave in a rudimentary pit over firewood and rocks; crushing by hand using a mallet or employing a beast of burden to drag a limestone wheel over the caramelized piñas; standing over wooden vats while the environmental yeasts work to ferment; then finally the smoke billowing into the sky from the wood fueling clay or copper stills. Over those 25 years, and in many instances, industrialization has crept into the process. Some of those big commercial brand owners in fact mislead by representing their methods as those of an era long past. The consuming public eats – or rather, drinks – it up.
  3. The last decade has witnessed a cocktail trade explosion, with mezcal brand owners seeking to capitalize on it by introducing lower-priced agave distillates that restaurant and bar owners can afford to use. We still have those Margaritas, Negronis and the rest, but mezcal is now being introduced as the spirit of choice in their making. Brands, distributors and bartenders work feverishly to develop and promote new cocktails using mezcal as the liquor of choice.
  4. A surfeit of entrepreneurs recognizes the popularity of mezcal, and seeks to capitalize on faddism: alcohol distributors are anxious to represent a brand; restaurateurs are opening mezcalerías; well-known figures in the entertainment industry who want even more recognition are interested in having their names associated with their own or others’ brands; and residents of countries south and north of Mexico, and on the other side of both the Atlantic and the Pacific, are hiring marketing consultants to assist in new brand development.
  1. Over the past several years, multinational corporations – each with an already well-established global reach – have been buying up popular brands of mezcal that continue to be made using traditional means of production. Mezcaleros who have elected to sell their brands did not have the resources to enable them to reach many countries. Not only is mezcal now arriving in far-off lands such as China, New Zealand, Argentina and the Yukon, but the big guns have the financial ability to promote the spirit.
  2. There’s an abundance of money in the pockets of consumers. Despite COVID-19, today a growing middle and upper class has more disposable income than ever before. Both dotcom youths and the older hippie generation now retiring, with their debts paid off and their flock flown the nest, are flush. The former no doubt want to enjoy their wealth, the latter grew up with The Beatles, Iron Butterfly and Jethro Tull, worshipping organic production, Birkenstocks, The Whole Earth Catalog and everything else representing “back to the earth.” Both have the capacity and in many cases the desire to spend $350 US for a bottle of mezcal de pechuga distilled in clay.

There are of course other reasons for the meteoric rise in popularity of mezcal, and some might disagree with this enumeration, but the one point that garners universal consensus is the increasing popularity of the Mexican agave distillate, with a strong likelihood that our love affair with mezcal will continue for decades to come.

Alvin Starkman operates Mezcal Educational Excursions of Oaxaca (www.mezcaleducationaltours.com), and has been playing his part in advancing mezcal’s global popularity.