Tag Archives: guanajuato

The Hidden City Behind the World’s Shoes

By Ximena Collado—

When I tell people I’m from León, they usually smile politely and ask, “Oh, where is that?” Few know that my hometown, tucked right in the heart of Mexico, is actually considered the shoe capital of the world. Not just of the country — of the world.
Not many people think of León as a tourist destination, even though it has a rich culture and great food. Yet it’s one of the closest airports to San Miguel de Allende, so countless travelers who fly in to visit San Miguel arrive through León. Many have unknowingly taken their first step in Guanajuato right here — in the city where the shoes they wear might have been made.
For those of us who grew up here, leather is more than a material; it’s part of our identity, the scent that lingers in the air, the texture of our childhood memories, the heartbeat of our city.
Some of my earliest memories are filled with that smell — the deep, warm leather that seemed to live in every corner of my house. My uncles worked with leather, crafting boots by hand in small workshops scattered across the city. When they hugged me after a long day, they always smelled like leather — rich and earthy, a scent that clung to their clothes and hands. To this day, whenever I catch that smell, it feels like home.
Walking through León, it’s impossible not to feel that connection. The smell of tanned leather still floats from old factories, and the markets shine with beautifully crafted boots and bags.
Our story with leather reaches back to the early 1600s, when León’s artisans began tanning hides and crafting goods by hand. The abundance of cattle in the Bajío region provided plenty of raw material, and the city’s location made it a natural hub for trade. Local histories suggest that Spanish settlers introduced new tanning methods during colonial times, techniques that blended with the skill and ingenuity of local craftspeople. Over the centuries, those small workshops grew into a thriving industry — and with it came a new identity. People from León earned the nickname panza verde, or “green belly,” a name said to come from the dyes and pigments that stained the aprons and skin of the leather workers. Over time, panza verde became more than a nickname; it became a badge of pride, a symbol of the color and character that define our craft.

Today, León produces millions of pairs of shoes every year, from classic cowboy boots to modern sneakers and elegant heels. But what many people don’t realize is that some of the world’s most recognized brands are made right here. I’ve even known friends who produce shoes for brands like Sperry or Steve Madden, proof of how León’s craftsmanship quietly travels the world. Their global designs are brought to life by Mexican hands — by people who’ve learned the balance between precision and intuition, between tradition and trend. If you’re looking for some beautifully made leather shoes, start with local names like Bala di Gala, Flexi, Cuadra, Dante, or Perugia — each one rooted in León’s heritage of craftsmanship and quality.
I always smile when I travel and spot a pair of shoes in a store that I know came from León. There’s something magical about seeing a piece of your city walking around the world — quietly, beautifully, without most people even knowing where it was born.
But León isn’t just an industrial city anymore. It’s transforming into a creative hub, a place where design, fashion, and culture come together. In recent years, I’ve watched boutique studios, design schools, and concept stores pop up all around the city. Events like SAPICA — Latin America’s biggest leather and footwear fair — attract buyers, stylists, and designers from all over the world. León is redefining itself: still rooted in craftsmanship, but now looking boldly toward the future.

5 Things: San Miguel de Allende

By Kary Vannice

San Miguel de Allende is a picturesque city famous for its Spanish colonial architecture, colorful facades, cobblestone streets, and thriving artistic scene. Just a few hours from Mexico City, this UNESCO World Heritage Site offers a perfect blend of culture, cuisine, and relaxation. With its mix of colonial charm and modern creativity, the town provides an enchanting escape where visitors can immerse themselves in history, adventure, and natural beauty. Whether you’re an art lover, foodie, or simply seeking a memorable escape, here are five things to experience in San Miguel de Allende.

1. Stay at Casa de la Cuesta

For a truly authentic and immersive stay, book a room at Casa de la Cuesta, a charming bed and breakfast showcasing traditional Mexican architecture and décor. Located just a short walk from the town’s central plaza, you’ll be treated to photo-worthy views, comfortable accommodations, and a relaxing courtyard. Guests can enjoy traditional breakfasts featuring local ingredients and explore the in-house mask museum, a fascinating tribute to indigenous cultures.

2. Dine at Rústica

It’s a must to have breakfast or lunch at Rústica, one of San Miguel’s hidden gems. Known for its fresh, locally sourced ingredients and cozy outdoor garden ambiance, you’ll want to stay for hours, chatting with friends and sipping coffee or chai. The unique, ultra-fresh menu features breakfast pizza (my personal favorite), a mouthwatering fig, arugula, and serrano pizza, and many vegetarian and vegan options, like the popular vegan Chilaquiles. The café’s laid-back vibe and friendly service make it a local favorite.

3. Visit the Fabrica La Aurora

Art enthusiasts will love spending an afternoon at Fabrica La Aurora, a former textile factory transformed into a dynamic art and design center. The space houses galleries, studios, and shops featuring contemporary and traditional Mexican art. You’ll find paintings, sculptures, textiles, and jewelry from talented local artists, as well as interior design shops, restaurants, and cafes. Many galleries also offer workshops and art classes, providing you with the opportunity to participate in the creative vibe.

4. Take a Hot Air Balloon Ride

For a breathtaking view of San Miguel de Allende’s rolling hills and vibrant townscape, embark on a hot air balloon ride at sunrise. Floating high above the city, you’ll start your morning bathed in golden light illuminating the iconic Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel and the surrounding countryside. Many tour operators offer packages that include breakfast and a celebratory toast after your flight, making it a magical and memorable experience you’ll never forget!

5. Visit Cañada de la Virgen

Once you’ve had your fill of San Miguel’s colonial architecture, step back in time by visiting Cañada de la Virgen, a nearby ancient archaeological site. A short drive outside of the city, this Mesoamerican pyramid complex offers guided tours that provide fascinating insights into the rituals and astronomical knowledge of the Otomi people. It’s an experience that’s both educational and awe-inspiring, with spectacular views of the rolling Mexican countryside.

San Miguel de Allende has been honored multiple times by Condé Nast Traveler in its Readers’ Choice Awards. In 2024, it was named the “Best City in Mexico and the World,” marking its fifth appearance at the top of the “Best Small Cities” list.

San Miguel’s charm lies in its vibrant culture, artistic soul, and welcoming atmosphere. Whether you’re wandering through its historic streets, popping into shops and art galleries, savoring the rich flavors of the local cuisine, or sipping cocktails as the sun sets from a charming rooftop bar, every moment here feels like an unforgettable adventure. This town offers a perfect balance of relaxation and discovery, allowing you to experience its magic at your own pace.

The Thrill of the Hunt: Gem Hunting Adventures in Mexico

By Kary Vannice

Mexico is home to a rich mining history, with an abundance of precious stones and minerals waiting to be discovered. From opals and quartz to silver and other rare gems, the country offers tourists an exciting opportunity to explore mines, dig for their own gemstones, and learn about deep-rooted mining traditions. Whether you’re an amateur rockhound or a seasoned collector, gem-hunting destinations throughout Mexico provide a unique blend of adventure, history, and hands-on experience.

Mining has been at the heart of Mexico’s story for centuries. Long before the Spanish arrived, the Aztecs and Mayans were using obsidian, jade, and turquoise for tools, jewelry, and ceremonial purposes. When the Spanish set their sights on Mexico’s land, they found an abundance of silver, gold, and other precious minerals, turning places like Guanajuato and Zacatecas into some of the richest mining hubs in the world. Today, that legacy is still alive—not just in the country’s continued mineral production, but in the hands-on experiences available to those who want to dig a little deeper into history (literally).

The Opals of Querétaro

One of the best places to experience this first hand is in the opal mines of Querétaro, near the charming town of Tequisquiapan. The journey begins with a rugged ride up into the hills, where miners have been extracting these fiery gems for generations. Once you arrive on-site, a professional guide explains the area’s geology and teaches participants how to recognize raw opals hidden within the rocks. Visitors are then handed tools and set free to start digging. For some, the rush of excitement when discovering a glimmering stone is well worth the effort, and even for those who don’t find a gem to take home, the stunning views of the Querétaro countryside make the experience equally rewarding.

There’s Silver in Zacatecas

For a completely different kind of mining adventure, head to Zacatecas and step into the depths of Mina El Edén. Once one of the richest silver mines in the world, this underground labyrinth now serves as a fascinating tourist attraction. A small train takes visitors through dimly lit tunnels, past displays of rare minerals and ancient mining tools. The stories of miners who once toiled in the depths add an element of intrigue and bring the bygone days of silver mining to life. And for those seeking a truly unique experience, stick around after dark—this mine is also home to a nightclub, where you can dance the night away inside a mountain.

The Ghost Mines of Mineral de Pozos

Further south in Guanajuato, the ghost town of Mineral de Pozos tells a haunting story of a once-thriving mining community. Mineral de Pozos lay along the Camino Real de Tierra Adentro (The Royal Road of the Interior), a major trade route that ran from what is now Mexico City north to what is now Santa Fe, New Mexico. On the Camino Real traveled minerals – most importantly, gold and silver – from the mines in San Luis Potosí, Zacatecas, and Guanajuato – Mineral de Pozos was one stop along the way.

The Santa Brigida Mine, with its distinctive stone structures, stands as a monument to Mexico’s mining past. Here, you can wander through the ruins of old mines, their crumbling stone structures still standing as a reminder of a once-booming industry. Trained guides lead visitors through abandoned shafts and tailing piles, where you can sift through rubble in search of small mineral specimens. This connects visitors to the miners who once labored here, and the haunting, picturesque scenery provides great photo opportunities too.

The Mining History Hidden under Guanajuato

In the heart of Guanajuato City, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, mining history comes alive in an even more immersive way. The labyrinthine tunnels winding through the city were originally mining passageways, and some of the region’s most famous mines, like La Valenciana, once produced an astonishing percentage of the world’s silver. Walking through these tunnels, visitors can see mineral veins up close, learn about the city’s role in Mexico’s economic history, and once you’ve explored the underground, you can take a ride on the city’s gondola to enjoy breathtaking views from high above the city where mining once flourished.

Whether descending into the depths of a historic silver mine, chipping away at rock to reveal blazing fire opals, or simply admiring Mexico’s rich geological diversity, these destinations offer unforgettable experiences for adventurers and gem enthusiasts alike. Each location tells a different chapter of Mexico’s long mining history, and every visit brings the possibility of uncovering something truly special. If you’re ready for an adventure that blends history, discovery, and natural beauty, these Mexican gem-hunting destinations are waiting to be explored.

¡Salud! A Toast to The Vineyards of Mexico

By Carole Reedy

Twenty years ago on our tranquil Oaxaca coast, wine imbibers had two choices: a liter box (the same container in which one finds milk) of red Don Simon for 17 pesos ($1.70 USD at the time) or an hourglass liter of red or white Padre Kino. To this day, I still keep one of those empty bottles to use for water or flowers.

Times have changed. Mexico has long been known for its beer and tequila, preferred beverages of locals and tourists alike. But now wines imported from Chile, Argentina, Spain, France, Australia, and the US are available in most places, even outside the big cities of Mexico, Monterrey, and Guadalajara.

More significant is our access to fine wines directly from the local vineyards that dot the Mexican states of Guanajuato, Querétaro, Baja California, and Coahuila. Fewer restrictions than some other countries, good climate, and the variety of grapes, styles, and blends make Mexico a grape-growing paradise. Most of Mexico’s grapes are of Spanish and French origin: Syrah, Cabernet, Malbec, and Chardonnay.

It’s important to note that wine production is not new to Mexico. Hernán Cortés and the Spaniards started growing and harvesting grapes in the 1500s. In fact, Cortés ordered the colonists to plant a minimum of 1000 grapevines per year. Mexican wines became so popular that in 1699, the Spanish Crown, threatened by the success and competition from France and Mexico, stopped production here. Only the Jesuits and other religious orders were allowed to continue making wine for sacramental purposes during this hiatus. The industry was finally revived and refined after the Mexican War of Independence (1810-21), and since has earned respectable status among the world’s finest wines.

In addition to our access to local wines, we can tour vineyards and enjoy a tasting, often accompanied by those tempting tapas. Here are a few of the best of the vineyards that are easy to locate for travelers and residents alike. Each has a variety of wine tours and tastings. It’s best to view your options on the individual websites; most require reservations.

BAJA CALIFORNIA

The 1000-mile long peninsula of Baja California is known predominately for its southern region (Baja Sur) that houses the beach resorts of Cabo San Lucas and Todos Santos. But the region of the North, the larger area of the two, provides a variety of entertainment for visitors and residents alike. Not only are there the beaches of Ensenada, there is also the vibrant city of Tijuana that always seems to get a bad rap.

I have fond memories of Tijuana weekends filled with Sunday afternoon corridas de toros, Saturday night jai alai games, and fish tacos. Just to the south of Ensenada, you’ll find the home of the finest wines of Mexico.

The Valle de Guadalupe has been called the Napa Valley of Mexico due to its commercial success throughout the world. Ninety percent of Mexican wine and half the country’s wineries are from these areas west of the Sierra Mountains that divide the Baja Península. The Pacific Ocean provides the cool breeze for the warm peninsula and its grapes.

Monte Xanic vineyard derives its name from the indigenous word xanic, which means “flower that sprouts after the rain.” The vineyard is located 15 kilometers from the Pacific Coast and 400 meters above sea level, the ideal Mediterranean climate for growing grapes.

In the three decades that elapsed between 1987 and 2017, Monte Xanic managed to position itself as a prestigious brand, especially for easy-consumption young wines, the demand for which is growing.

The vineyard uses computerized irrigation, with sensors located among the roots of the vines to measure humidity levels and the need for water.

The vineyard uses computerized irrigation, with sensors located among the roots of the vines to measure humidity levels and the need for water.

The water used by Monte Xanic comes from several wells in the region. First, water from each well is tested for salinity and then conducted separately to an artificial lake, where further quality control occurs, again focused especially on salt concentrations, ensuring optimum quality water for the vineyards.

Harvesting both whites and reds, Monte Xanic wines range in price from 300 pesos per bottle and up. The reasonably priced Calixa Syrah complements Mexican food, such as tacos arrachera, cecina, and sopes.

L.A. Cetto vineyard, a nearby neighbor, was founded in 1928 by Angelo Cetto, who used the methods he learned in his native Trentino, Italy. Three generations of the family have continued the tradition.

There are several valleys where these vineyards are located: Valle de Guadalupe, Valle Redondo, San Vincente, San Antonio de la Minas, and Tecate. L.A. Cetto is a popular wine in Mexico, very reasonably priced and readily available in restaurants and retail stores alike (probably including your local grocery store!).

Both of these viñedos provide visitors with tours and tastings. If you have never experienced a tasting or tour and you’re a wine drinker, you will discover many interesting aspects and fact about wines. And the tours in Mexico provide that extra warmth that only Mexicans bring to a gathering.

PARRAS, COAHUILA

Casa Madero, dating from 1597, boasts the oldest vineyard in Mexico and is home to one of the most-awarded wines in Mexico. They produce my personal favorite red, Casa Madero 3V (three grape varieties: Cabernet, Merlot, and Tempranillo). For white wine lovers, the Chardonnay is a crisp delight.

The city of Parras, Coahuila, is located in the northeast corner of Mexico, 150 km from both Saltillo and Torreón. It’s considered one of Mexico’s Pueblos Mágicos due to its gastronomy, artesanias (handcrafts), and cultural contributions to the country. It is also a part of the country that, while close to the US border, is not swarming with tourists and thus is a welcome respite for adventurers.

The area and winery have fascinating histories. It seems that even during prohibition they continued with wine production, probably in cooperation with the religious entities.

The vineyards, restaurant, and the accompanying Hacienda San Lorenzo are accessible by advance reservation only, and it appears the beautiful hacienda is available to groups only.

GUANAJUATO

The charming colonial town of San Miguel de Allende has so much to offer tourists, not only within the cobblestone city, but also just minutes outside it.

Close by, on the road from San Miguel de Allende to Dolores Hidalgo (km 73), you’ll find the popular Tres Raíces (Three Roots) Vinatería. Friends of mine recently spent a day enjoying the hospitality of the owner and staff, returning with rave reviews of the tour, wines, and excellent tapas.

The viñedo also houses a charming boutique hotel and a restaurant in case you want the full getaway experience into the world of wines.

QUERÉTARO

The areas surrounding the cities of Querétaro and Tequisquiapan are known as La Ruta de Queso y Vino as you will find several notable vineyards here. There are many organized tours out of each of these cities, Querétaro being the larger and more famous of the two, with Tequisquiapan the small charming pueblo, chock full of artesanias. Whichever place you decide to make your base, you will find it easy to explore both the wines and cheeses made in the area. There are different types of organized tours ranging from horseback, tranvía (trolley), walking, and the like, or you can rent a car to explore on your own.

Not only is this area the route of wine and cheese, historically the Bajío – the lowland plain of west central Mexico, is the cradle of the Mexican struggle for freedom that culminated in the War of Independence, making it a treasure trove of history that can be studied in the museums and tours of the cities of Querétaro, San Miguel de Allende, and Dolores Hidalgo.

Finca Sala Vivé by Freixnet México: Are you a sparkling wine fan? This is the place to experience a tour and tasting of that special “bubbly” that adds spark to all occasions. Finca Sala Vivé is the major producer of sparkling wines in Mexico, which it accomplishes through traditional methods. As with all the vineyards, you can buy the wines you taste by the bottle to take home to share with friends.

La Redonda is one of the most frequented vineyards, but don’t let that put you off. It is popular for a reason, and there are never crowds. You will experience the personal attention that characterizes all the tours and wineries in this region.

One plus of La Redonda is the value of their wines. Their prices fall into a very reasonable range for those of us who imbibe daily, and I find their wines to be readily available in many locations in the country, not just in this region.

These vineyards and wines offer a good idea of the state of wine in Mexico. Prices can vary dramatically, and people often are surprised that the Mexican wines can be even pricier than some French wines. Wine prices, like everything else these days, are only rising, in some part due to peso devaluation. I find that when I dine in a restaurant, my glass of wine is often more expensive than my friend’s margarita. But,“Así es la vida! Disfrútala!”