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Tilcoatle: The Nice Snake vs. the Fer-de-Lance, the Not-So-Nice Snake

By Julie Etra

How many ways are there to say “snake” in Spanish? The answer is three (or four, depending on interpretation): serpiente, culebra, víbora (which also refers to vipers, a specific type of snake, including pit vipers), and cascabel, which refers to rattlesnakes. On the Oaxacan coast, we’re home to many snakes. While over 170 species of reptiles exist here—including lizards—this article focuses on two specific snakes: the Tilcoatle (Drymarchon melanurus ssp. erebennus) and the Fer-de-Lance (Bothrops asper). The Tilcoatle is fascinating, while the Fer-de-Lance is equally so but thankfully absent from the Oaxacan coast.

Taxonomy: Understanding the Tilcoatle
The Tilcoatle, also known as the blacktail cribo or middle American indigo snake in English, goes by an impressive variety of names in Spanish: alicante, rey negra (king snake), ratonera negra (black rat killer), culebra arroyera (arroyo snake), babatúa, culebra azul (blue snake), zumbadora (buzzer), culebra prieta (brown snake), culebra negra (black snake), palancacoate, sabanera (savannah dweller), and sayama enjaquimada. Its scientific name originates from Greek: “Drymos” means “forest” and “archon” means “governor,” while “melano” translates to “black” and “urus” means “tail.”

Morphology and Physiology: The Tilcoatle’s Traits
The Tilcoatle is a large snake, measuring an average of 6.5 feet (2 meters) in length as an adult, with some specimens growing up to 3 meters. Its tail constitutes 20% of its overall length. This snake is a visual marvel, with smooth, shiny black scales and an underbelly that can be reddish or yellow. Juveniles often feature faint bands that fade as they mature. While it has teeth and a strong jaw, the Tilcoatle lacks fangs. It is diurnal, meaning it is active during the day, and shelters at night in holes among rocks, rotting roots, or burrows. Breeding occurs annually in winter, with females laying 4–12 eggs under rocks or roots, which hatch in about 80 days. Hatchlings can measure up to 26 inches (66 cm) and reach maturity in two to three years. Their lifespan averages 11 years.

Habitat and Diet: Where the Tilcoatle Thrives
The Tilcoatle is found from the southeastern United States to northern South America. Its adaptability allows it to thrive in various habitats, from forests to deserts. In Mexico, it often inhabits riparian and lacustrine areas and is particularly common around Lake Chapala in Jalisco.An active and voracious predator, the Tilcoatle preys on lizards, bats, rodents, fish, frogs, toads, carrion, and even other snakes, including rattlesnakes and its own species. It has been observed consuming Pituophis deppei (Mexican bull or pine snake) and nauyacas (Fer-de-Lance). The Tilcoatle’s method of predation is unique; rather than venom or constriction, it kills prey by breaking their bones with a powerful bite. Remarkably, its blood is resistant to rattlesnake venom but not to coral snake venom.

Defensive Behavior
Despite its size and predatory capabilities, the Tilcoatle is not aggressive. When threatened, it prefers to flee. Alternatively, it may take a defensive stance by contracting its body and whipping its tail against dry leaves, producing a sound similar to a rattlesnake’s warning. It also emits a foul-smelling odor from its cloaca as a further deterrent.

Myths and Legends Surrounding the Tilcoatle
The Tilcoatle is the subject of numerous myths. One tale suggests that the snake sneaks up on a nursing mother and her baby, sedates them with its breath and tail, and then drinks the mother’s milk, leaving the baby malnourished. Though untrue, this legend is widespread in Mexico, possibly originating in pre-Hispanic times when snakes were revered as deities like Quetzalcoatl, associated with fertility.Other myths claim that the Tilcoatle can deliver a painful whip-like injury with its tail (“chicotazo”). Supposedly, if killed, the snake’s stomach reveals a magical stone that becomes a talisman for the slayer. Some believe the best way to kill a Tilcoatle is by placing a machete upright in the ground so that the snake, striking out, injures itself fatally.Interestingly, the Tilcoatle lends its name to a local cooperative supporting musicians and cultural activities, including free performances at the Mercado Orgánico de Huatulco.

The Fer-de-Lance: A Cautionary Tale
The Fer-de-Lance, known as terciopelo (velvet) in Mexico, is scientifically named Bothrops asper. Its name combines Greek and Latin roots: “Bothros” (“pit”) and “ops” (“face”) refer to its heat-sensing pit organs, while “asper” means “rough.” In French, Fer-de-Lance translates to “spearhead.” This highly venomous pit viper ranges from southern Mexico to northern South America. Unlike the Tilcoatle, the Fer-de-Lance is nocturnal and thrives in moist environments near human habitation, where prey is abundant. Its lifespan is up to 20 years, and females are significantly larger than males.

A Deadly Reputation
The Fer-de-Lance is a dangerous snake with the ability to inject an average of 105 mg of venom per bite; recorded yields go up to 310 mg. As little as 50 mg is enough to kill a human. Its venom causes rapid necrosis, and even with antivenom treatment, survivors often face amputation. Described as unpredictable and excitable, the Fer-de-Lance can move quickly and reverse direction with alarming speed. In Costa Rica, it is responsible for 46% of snake bites and 30% of related hospitalizations. Symptoms of envenomation include severe swelling, bruising, blistering, fever, gastrointestinal bleeding, and even organ failure. Fatalities are often due to sepsis, brain hemorrhage, or kidney failure.

Reducing Fer-de-Lance Fatalities
The Clodomiro Picado Research Institute in Costa Rica has significantly reduced fatalities through antivenom production and venom research. Founded in 1970 by Dr. Clodomiro Picado Twight, the institute plays a vital role in saving lives across Central America.

Moral of the Story
While the Tilcoatle is a fascinating and generally harmless snake deserving of admiration and conservation, the Fer-de-Lance commands respect and caution. Give these creatures the wide berth they deserve, and appreciate them from a safe distance.

Mexico City’s Water Crisis

By Julie Etra

Mexico City is facing a severe water crisis, a situation rooted in centuries of mismanagement dating back to the Spanish conquest of Tenochtitlan, now modern-day Mexico City. After the conquest, Tenochtitlan expanded into the five lakes that formed the closed basin of Mexico. These lakes, which had no natural outlet, varied in elevation and water quality. The Mexica (also known as the Aztecs) had successfully engineered the lakes by building a series of dikes and causeways starting in the 1420s, separating the brackish from fresh water.

Before 1466, fresh water was sourced from the springs at Chapultepec, accessed via canoes or trajineras (shallow-bottomed boats). During this time, the poet-engineer Nezahualcóyotl built the first aqueduct. However, the Spanish, inheriting a system they didn’t fully understand, began a series of drainage projects to dry what they considered a swamp. These efforts, combined with land-use changes such as grazing, cultivation, and deforestation, led to erosion and siltation. These projects, along with seasonal rains, couldn’t prevent periodic floods, which struck in 1555, 1580, 1607, 1615, and 1623. Despite persistent flooding, the Spanish refused to relocate to the mainland, convinced that the lake system could eventually be drained.

The first major engineering project came in 1607-1608, under the direction of Enrique Martinez. A tunnel was excavated to a low point in Nochistongo, called the Desagüe, but the plan failed. In the great flood of 1629, the only dry spot left was around the Zócalo (then known as the ‘island of the dogs’) where people sought refuge. The Catholic Church leaders, undeterred, even held mass on the rooftops. The floods lasted for five years, and the death toll reached over 30,000, largely due to disease in the unsanitary, muddy conditions. Despite these horrors, the Church and the government (which were essentially one and the same) justified staying on the island, minimizing the destruction in their reports to the King of Spain, instead of moving to the mainland.

The paradox continued into the 20th century with ever-larger engineering projects. In 1857, Francisco Garay was awarded a contract by the federal government to design a new system. His project included a 50 km tunnel from San Lázaro, east of the city, which channeled rivers and incorporated over 200 minor canals. The goal was not just to drain the basin, but also to provide irrigation for fields and create a waterway transportation system—a lofty vision that was never fully realized.

Under the regime of dictator Porfirio Díaz, the “Great Canal” was constructed at the end of the 19th century, abandoning Garay’s multi-purpose plan in favor of a more direct, single-minded effort to “conquer nature.” Between 1886 and 1900, the canal, 47 km long, with a 10 km tunnel, dams, and bridges, was built. Despite the scale of the project, the government could not overcome the topography, and flooding returned in the 1920s and again in 1945. By then, the canal’s flow had become nearly flat, and it filled with fine sediment. This required the construction of 11 pumping stations, a costly and inefficient solution.

Another attempt came in 1975, when an elaborate system of underground tunnels and pumps was installed at depths ranging from 88.5 ft. to 712 ft. (22 to 217 meters). The most recent infrastructure, built in 2019, included a massive 38-mile tunnel system meant to drain water away from the city.

Ironically, the water crisis in Mexico City today is one of scarcity rather than excess. The city, historically plagued by floods, now struggles with dwindling water supplies. About 30% of the city’s water needs are met by the Cutzamala system, an archaic network of dams, reservoirs, canals, and pumps. This system, one of the largest of its kind in the world, includes seven reservoirs, six pumping plants, 322 km of canals and tunnels, and a large water treatment plant. The main reservoirs—Villa Victoria, Valle de Bravo, and El Bosque—are located in the states of México and Michoacán, some 85 miles from the city, requiring an extensive network of pipes to deliver water to the capital. Currently, these reservoirs are at a historical low of just 30%. El Bosque, suffering from deforestation and urbanization, no longer contributes as it once did.

The rest of the city’s water comes from groundwater within the Mexico City Basin, which is being pumped out at twice the rate it is replenished. This groundwater is often contaminated and has caused ground subsidence in certain areas. Some buildings around the Zócalo, in particular, have started leaning due to this subsidence, according to a recent New York Times article. The pump system operates 24/7, posing a significant maintenance challenge. None of the water from the taps is potable, and the city relies on bottled water for drinking.

The situation has been worsened by prolonged droughts and the effects of climate change, although last summer’s rains provided some relief. Claudia Sheinbaum’s federal government has promised to address the issue with a national water initiative. As former mayor of Mexico City, Sheinbaum is familiar with the city’s aging infrastructure and its pressing water needs. She has stated that solving the water crisis is near the top of her agenda.

¡Muy complicado! ¡Suerte! (Very complicated, good luck!)
For more reading, check out this link: ‘Grist article on Claudia Sheinbaum and Mexico Citys water crisis

Exploring the film ¡Que viva México!

By Julie Etra

When I stumbled upon this film, directed by the Russian filmmaker Sergei Eisenstein in the early 1930s and never completed, I was immediately engaged. Finally released in its unfinished form in 1978, it takes place in four geographic regions of Mexico not long after the Mexican Revolution, during the height of the Mexican muralists, and just prior to the golden age of Mexican cinema. It is narrated in Russian, with subtitles in English, by co-Director Grigory Alexandrov. During this epoch many intellectuals and artists associated with the European avant-garde movement were fascinated by Latin American culture, particularly Mexico, which they considered the embodiment of Surrealism.

The history of its conception, development, production, and resurrection is as interesting as the film. In 1929, a group of Soviet filmmakers headed by Eisenstein were invited to Hollywood to learn modern techniques of sound cinema and to produce a movie for Paramount Pictures. Eisenstein was well known and respected from his previous works, most famously Battleship Potemkin. Unable to reach an agreement with the Hollywood moguls, the American socialist and author Upton Sinclair and other well-connected intellectuals and artists in the United States, including the Mexican artists Diego Rivera, David Alfaro Siqueiros, and José Clemente Orozco, suggested locating to Mexico. They envisioned an episodic portrayal of Mexican culture and politics from pre-Conquest civilization to the Mexican Revolution. In preparation for the six months of filming, the filmmakers spent two months of often arduous travel led by Rivera, Siqueiros, and Orozco, experiencing landscapes that would otherwise have been out of reach or not considered. Following production the film was returned to Hollywood where it languished until 1955 when Upton Sinclair donated the negative to the collection of the Museum of Modern Art in New York.

The film starts with a Prologue that attempts to connect pre-Hispanic Mexico with the then contemporary version. Stark images and profiles of men and women mirroring the gods and sculptures of the great temples, imply the persistence of the indigenous culture, soul, and physical appearance despite the conquest, with death an ever-present theme.

The first vignette, Sandunga, takes place in the Isthmus of Tehuantepec, the area famous for its winds and the modern wind farm La Ventosa. The vignette opens with a bucolic, idyllic, and romanticized landscape, with the coconut palm trees swaying in the breeze. The story revolves around a young woman named Concepción who yearns for gold jewelry in the form of coins, joined in a necklace, as a symbol of status and coming of age. The plot, as it were, leads up to her wedding. Footage includes various scenes of women working in the markets, the fields, and over comals; for the most part men are absent, at least for the work, although all the musicians in the wedding party are men. The party scenes are rich with cultural details such as toddlers and baby goats under the feet of the partying dancers. It culminates with the wedding. It ends with the following subtitle ‘That’s how the unhurried semi-vegetable life goes on in this tropical part of Mexico’, with the palm fronds bending in the wind, the husband in the hammock, and Concepción handing him the baby boy. La Sandunga or Zandunga is a Mexican waltz and the regional anthem of the Isthmus of Tehuantepec. This song is covered by numerous vocalists; my favorite version is by Lila Downs.

The second vignette shows the splendid Festival of the Virgin of Guadalupe. Catholic Church luminaries oversee the reenactment of the Passion of Christ and the procession of the penitents crawling up the stairs to the church, which was most likely built on a pyramid, and lots of depictions of death. The festival continues with pre-Hispanic costumes including masks and feathers, with music and dancing that lasted unabated for 24 hours, highlighting pre-conquest culture. There are zero women in this footage. It ends with a weird transition to a bullfight featuring the famous bullfighter David Liceaga. The questionable connection to the festival is the bullfighters’ prayers to the Virgin prior to the spectacle of the bullfight. As part of this same vignette, we then see couples and families enjoying the trajineras of Xochimilco, the flat-bottomed boats that traverse the shallow water of the former lake, featuring Liceaga accompanied with women serenading and fawning over him.

Most troubling, to me, is the third vignette which takes place prior to the Revolution and during the Dictatorship of Porfirio Diaz on a large hacienda in the state of Hidalgo, it depicts the stark disparity between the ruling class and the working peons (agrarian reform was central to the Revolution). It takes place on a Maguey (Agave) plantation, Tetlapayac, where the milky liquid pulque is extracted from the plant and then fermented to produce pulque.

It is hard, endless work for the pulqueros. Maria, betrothed to pulquero Sebastian, is raped by a drunk guest at the hacienda during a welcoming party for the returning daughter of the patron, and as Sebastian tries to escort her, he is roughed up and kicked out while she is locked up, with a guard at the door. Sebastian, with his coconspirators, attempts to free Maria. On foot and armed with stolen weapons, they are hunted down by an armed and well-mounted posse into the rough landscape. During the commotion the daughter of the patron is fatally shot. Sebastian and his two friends meet a tortured, bloody end while the surviving coconspirator watches and Maria is freed only to discover her dead fiancé. The filming, by cinematographer Eduard Tisse, the juxtapositions, shadows and contrasts, are exquisite.

In the Epilogue, Alexandrov explains that the last novella, Soldadera (soldier), about the Revolution, was never completed as the filmmakers ran out of money and returned home. The Soldaderas were the wives of the soldiers; they accompanied the army and supported the men in various capacities.

It ends with Day of the Dead celebrations, at first in the cemetery, with death everywhere, symbolized by an abundance of skulls, a recurring theme that connects the vignettes. ‘The day begins with laments for the dead’ and continues with feasting at the cemetery. The last scene is a bustling carnival with dancers and performers in death masks dancing the Mexican Hat Dance, surrounded by their masked audience. When the audience removes their masks, we see the faces of Mexico: children.

Atole y más

By Julie Etra

Atole is a prehispanic corn-based beverage consumed throughout Mesoamerica and South America, albeit in different forms and with varying ingredients. The word atole is derived from the náhuatl word atolli , which means “watered down” or watery, due to its root of “atl” = water. It is synonymous with atol as it is also called in Mexico, Spain, and Venezuela.

The Purépecha, indigenous people of the northwestern Mexican state of Michoacan, call it kamata. In Mayan it is known as sa’, in Costa Rica it is called chicheme and champurrado in Peru and Argentina. Its basic ingredient is milled corn or corn flour. In prehispanic times it was likely prepared with water, and perhaps honey, but with the conquering Spaniards came sugar, added as a sweetener. Of moderate viscosity from cornstarch, atole was historically prepared as hot as possible.

Ingredients
Other contemporary additions to the basic beverage include milk, honey, piloncillo (see below) cinnamon, vanilla and other sweeteners, such as fruit juice or fruit pulp. There are dozens of ‘recipes’ with additional ingredients as variable in flavor and texture as chiles, epazote, blackberry, plum, mango, coconut, walnut, and cheese. In Colombia eggs are added.

Piloncillo
As an interesting aside, Mexico produces a type of sugar called piloncillo. With its origins in Asia, sugar cane crossed the Mediterranean, landing in the Iberian Peninsula, and from there brought from Spain to the Island of Hispaniola, (modern day Haiti and the Dominican Republic), by Christopher Columbus; sugar mills and refineries were operating on Hispaniola by 1516.

Piloncillo is commonly found in the produce section. It is brown, cone-shaped unprocessed raw sugarcane. The canes are crushed, the juice extracted and boiled to create a thick syrup which is then poured into molds where it hardens. Currently (and historically), the largest producer of piloncillo in Mexico is San Luis Potosí where it was originally cultivated by the Spaniards, although the states of Veracruz, Quintana Roo, Nayarit, Jalisco, Hidalgo and Colima are also producers.

Pinole
Atole should not be confused with pinole although they rhyme. Pinole is a grain mixture, made predominantly of heirloom blue and purple maize that’s roasted with raw cacao beans, then ground into a fine mixture (yes, cacao is native to Mexico). It’s most commonly combined with milk to form a thick, warm porridge. In addition to cacao it is mixed with a combination of cinnamon, chia seeds, vanilla, or other spices, to make a beverage called pinolillo.

Champurrado
In Mexico, Champurrado is atole with chocolate, although masa (the same dough used for tortillas) is used instead of harina.

Chilate, Arroz, and Horchata
Atole should not be confused with another beverage, chilate, from Costa Chica, Guerrero. This beverage is prepared with cocoa, rice, cinnamon, and sugar, and is served cold. It is not to be confused with chilate in Central American countries such as Guatemala, where its base is corn. Rice, a component of this and other beverages like horchata, arrived after the Spanish conquest. Rice, of Asian origin, arrived in Mexico via the port of Acapulco, Guerrero, shortly after the Spanish conquest of the Philippines in 1565 by Miguel Lopez de Legazpi (Spain ruled the Philippines for over 333 years). Approximately forty years later Spanish ships known as the Manila Galleons brought rice to Mexico from the Philippines. Remember, dear readers, the fall of Mexico occurred in 1521.

Mexico does grow some of its own rice for domestic consumption, but the majority is imported from the United States. The popular beverage horchata comes from North Africa which was brought to the Iberian Peninsula with the Moorish conquest of Spain in the eighth century.

Pox
Pox (pronounced “posh”), comes from the Mayan people of the Chiapas Highlands. It is a distilled, but weakly alcoholic beverage whose ingredients include water, sugar cane, corn, piloncillo and wheat bran, as well as a variety of herbs, such as mint, lemon grass, rosemary, and bay leaf, or the pulp of seasonal fruits. It is known for its silky consistency.

In addition to previously mentioned ingredients, anise, orange blossoms, orange leaves, and pineapple can be added to the basic recipe.

Here is a popular recipe for Atole de Piña:

Ingredients
·5 oz masa
11 oz pineapple pulp
·2 cups cubed pineapple

Preparation
·Stir the masa in 4 cups of water. Let stand for 15 minutes, then strain the water and set it aside. In a blender puree the pineapple in 1 ½ cups of water. Strain and set the pineapple water aside.

In a saucepan combine the strained masa water and the pineapple water and set over medium heat. Boil, stirring constantly for 15 minutes or until thickened.
Remove from heat, add the pineapple cubes, and stir for another 5 minutes. Serve hot.

What about those pineapples? Not imported by the Spaniards, pineapples most likely originated in the wild in the Paraná–Paraguay River drainages between southern Brazil and Paraguay and are thought to have been domesticated over 6,000 years ago. Archaeological evidence of pineapple use dates back to 1200–800 BCE in Peru and 200 BCE – 700 CE in Mexico, where it was cultivated by the Mayans and the Mexica (Aztecs) By the late 1400s, pineapples were a staple food of indigenous populations throughout Mesoamerica.

Atole in Religious Ritual.
Atole is considered indispensable in many religious events and Catholic ceremonies, including baptisms, first communion, wakes, patron saint celebrations, and posadas (see EYE archives December 2014 for a good description of a posada:
https://theeyehuatulco.com/2014/12/01/christmas-in-mexico-city-how-to-celebrate-it-like-a-chilango). In many indigenous communities it is an offering in prayer for a good corn harvest or one of thanks following a good one. Of course, corn, a staple and essential component of Mexican diets, has been worshiped for thousands of years, and atole is its liquid manifestation (see EYE archives for multiple articles on corn).

Today, the types of flavors that accompany atole are varied and regional, but it remains an original Mexican concoction.

The Pochteca

By Julie Etra

Triple Alliance
Before addressing the subject of this article, the Pochteca, some background information about the Mexica Empire helps explain the setting within which this particular social class existed. Commonly known as the Aztec Empire, a sort of misnomer, the Empire was governed by the Triple Alliance (Alliance) from 1428-1521. On August 13, 1521, it fell to the conquering Spaniards, accompanied by the indigenous enemies of the Alliance. The Alliance was a military, political, and social agreement among three city-states who shared lands in the Basin of Mexico and joined forces for their mutual benefit. The city-states consisted of Tenochtitlan, now known as Mexico City, which was settled by the Mexica/Aztec; Texcoco, home of the Acolhua tribe who settled in the Valley 100 years before the Mexica; and Tlacopan, where the Tepaneca preceded the Acolhua by about a century. The three tribes shared the same Nahua language and a number of customs. The Alliance replaced the previously dominant Tepaneca.

Social Classes of the Empire
Within this empire/alliance existed a highly structured class system with eight more or less distinct classes. At the top was the sovereign ruler or Emperor, called the Tlatoani, (for example the last Tlatoani ruler prior to the Spanish conquest was Motecuhzoma Xocoyotzin aka Moctezuma II). The word is derived from the nahuatl verb tlahtoa, which means “to speak”, The Tlatoani was followed by the nobility, warrior class (guerreros) the high priests and priestesses, the middle class (commoners), the free poor, servants, and slaves.

Nobility

The nobility included the wealthy families within the same bloodline and lineage to which they were born. Following the leadership of the Tlatoani they ran the government, including the army, and oversaw the other classes. Their great wealth was accrued through management of the land, slavery, and tributes from outlying towns to the central government in the ever-expanding empire. Following the top-ranking Tlatoani were the Tetecuhtin, the high lords and the Pipiltin who were the regular lords.

Warriors
The soldiers were essential to the defense and expansion of the empire, conquering and subjugating surrounding territories. All Aztec males were required to serve in one capacity or another and received military training at a young age. The military offered an opportunity for upward class mobility for commoners and free/poor citizens (not unlike the contemporary volunteer military of the USA), in particular for taking captives for sacrifices and slavery. Also, somewhat similar to the contemporary USA, warfare was a major component of the Aztec economy, and innately entwined with religion (unlike the USA). Warriors were between 15 and 20 years old. To be eligible for battle recruits had to pass a physical test of carrying very heavy burdens for a predetermined duration. The warriors were also called on to provide additional protection of the Pochteca, and to keep an eye on the neighboring untrustworthy Tlaxcalans.

The Priests
The priests, next in rank, had an enormous amount of responsibility, respect, and power. They were the prophets of the society, observing and interpreting the movements of the heavens (planets and stars) and tracking planetary events such as eclipses. They had a direct line of communication with the gods, maintained the temples and organized all the religious festivities and associated gods, which were many. The priests oversaw and implemented human sacrifices to the gods over the sacrificial stones. They were responsible for the education of children as well as the general population in matters of religion and traditions, thereby wielding power and influence over society. There were female priests, known as cihuatlamacazqui, but they were much less common than their male counterparts.

The Middle Class
The middle class, or the commoners, made up the largest component of the population. This class was responsible for many of the skilled trades and included stone cutters, masons, feather workers, potters, weavers, sculptors, painters, boatsmiths, goldsmiths, and silversmiths. This class also included accountants and arbitrators for business and personal matters.

Poor/Free
This class could work their way up through the ranks through bravery in the military service or marriage. They included hunters (fowlers, who hunted the abundant waterfowl), fishermen, and the farmers who cultivated the chinampas of Tenochtitlan.

Servants
This class was similar to the serfs of Medieval Europe. They were owned by the nobility but had a higher status than slaves as they were allowed to marry, and their children were not automatically considered property of their owners. Unlike serfs, they could have side trades and additional income as well as their own slaves and servants. Like slaves, they could be sold but could also be freed with the proper documentation.

Slaves
The obvious does not need to be repeated. Many of these were captives of war, and subject to human sacrifice.

The Pochteca
And finally, the Pochteca. They were a powerful and elite class or guild of professional soldier – traders, ranking just below the nobility. The guilds were restricted, highly controlled, and membership was hereditary, passing from father to son. Being secretive, the guild did not share information about trade routes, source of goods, and third-party local merchants and suppliers. Although they served multiple purposes the Pochteca were primarily long-distance traveling merchants, particularly in luxury and exotic items, traveling from Tenochtitlan to Nicaragua and as far north as what is now New Mexico in the United States.

Trips could last months The trade or commerce was known as pochtecayotl in their Nahuatl language, derived from pochtecatl, which was one of the neighborhoods of Tlatelolco (now within modern Mexico City) that housed the Pochteca, and where the market, called a Pochtlan, sometimes spelled Puxtla or Puxtlan, was located.

The guild had their own internal structure which included another class of servants, tlamemeh or tamemes who were porters, as there were no beasts of burden until the arrival of the Spaniards with their horses. The word is derived from the Nahuatl word tlamama, which means to carry. Like other classes, they were born into this system and trained as children to carry heavy loads. The Pochteca sometimes received protection from the warrior class as they had to cross into foreign and potentially hostile territory outside the control of the Empire, including modern day Guatemala and other countries in Central America in order to obtain unique treasure such as quetzal feathers and birds (Chiapas, Guatemala, Costa Rica) and jade (Guatemala), for example. They had their own god, Yacatecuhtli, the patron saint of commerce, their own ceremonies, and their own laws and courts, overseen by Pochteca elders. They were allowed to keep merchandise, but public display was not permitted as to not outshine or offend the nobility. Hence, they were able to quietly self-enrich and organize elaborate feasts and rituals for their own community.
Some of the more exotic goods they brought to the Capital for the Tlatoani and the nobility included the aforementioned quetzal feathers and birds (check the penacho of Moctezuma II; a replica is on display in the Anthropology Museum in Mexico City. The original is on display at the Museum of Ethnology in Vienna, Austria) and other exotic and colorful birds such as scarlet macaws (Moctezuma II had an aviary), marine shells, turquoise, other gemstones, jaguar pelts, coca, and polychrome pottery. Many of these luxury items are on display at the Templo Mayor Museum just off the Zócalo in Mexico City.

Since they had license to unconstrained travel, they were well positioned for another role as spies and informants, relaying information about subordinate states, especially the aforementioned Tlaxcalans (who indeed betrayed the Mexica and sided with the Spaniards) to the central government in Tenochtitlan.

Although there were other merchant guilds in Mayan society called ppolom, compared to the Aztec Pochteca, they lacked the complex structure and unique characteristics of the Pochteca.

 

Journalists, Avocados, and Cartels

By Julie Etra

Journalists
We recently made a trip to the state of Michoacán, Mexico, specifically to the monarch butterfly reserve at ‘El Rosario’ (which was a magical amazing experience), and then on to Morelia, the capital of the state. After spending a few days in Mexico City, we hired a driver to take us on the three-hour drive to the reserve. From the reserve to Morelia required an initial ‘taxi’ ride in two small pick-up trucks (to accommodate the four of us and our luggage) to the central bus terminal in Zitácuaro where we took the very comfortable 3.5-hour bus ride to Morelia.

We were traveling with friends, and I did not tell them until the trip was over that Zitácuaro was recently featured in the Sunday N.Y. Times magazine section as one of the most dangerous places to be a reporter in all of Mexico. Mexico follows the Ukraine in being the second most dangerous place in the world to be an investigative reporter.

According to the article, under the Presidency of Felipe Calderon, starting in 2006, and his ineffective crackdown on drugs, at least 128 reporters have been killed in Mexico, 13 of them last year alone. The article focused on the founder and lead reporter of the local media outlet Monitor Michoacán, Armando Linares, who was dedicated to exposing corruption in Zitácuaro, hinting at the connection of the mayor to cartels. We were highly unlikely to be exposed to that sort of risk, being uninvolved foreigners, during our two hours at the central bus terminal. Nonetheless, I recalled the article, as it was on my mind during our departure from the reserve, our few hours in Zitácuaro, enroute through the town, and then on to Morelia.

Avocados
Avocados (Persea americana), a fruit and not a vegetable, most likely originated in the vicinity of Puebla, Mexico, about 10,000 years ago (similar to the domestication of corn). The English word avocado is derived from the Spanish word aguacate, which the Spaniards derived from the Nahuatl word ahuacatl (meaning testicle). It is called oon in Maya, and palta in Quechua. In the United States of America (US) avocado trees were first planted in Florida in 1833 and then in California in 1856.

Although the US lifted its 83-year import ban in 1997, shipments to California were not allowed at the time due to concern over competitive lower priced Mexican avocados and supposed fear of foreign pests. California finally began imports in 2007, as the state, with limited suitable growing conditions, simply could not meet the demands of this increasingly popular fruit. In 1985, Americans ate 436 million pounds of avocados per year. By 2020, that number exploded to 2.7 billion pounds.

Avocado consumption in the US peaks during the Superbowl, although the average consumption is said to be seven lbs. of avocados /year. I can attest that in our Huatulco household we average eight avocados per week. This seemingly excessive consumption is vastly curtailed when back in the US due to cost and sometimes quality. Even with the peso at 16.3:1 US dollar as of this writing, one avocado averages 90 cents in Huatulco as opposed to an average of $1.50 per avocado at the bargain outlets in the US and as high as 2.98 for one organic avocado.

Michoacán produces more avocados than any other state in Mexico, as the small trees thrive in well drained soils of volcanic origin, and sunny climates. It is followed by Jalisco and the Estado de Mexico. Mexico (the country) exports about half of the avocados consumed worldwide. In 2022 this was valued at just under 3.5 billion in US currency, with the US being by far the biggest consumer estimated at 3 billion, receiving 86% of Mexican exports (95% of these are Hass avocados).
From Mexico City to the reserve, in the vicinity of the reserve, and on our way to Morelia we certainly noticed all the monocultures of avocado orchards. There is concern that deforestation and land use conversion to avocado orchards is destroying the oak/pine woodlands, increasing water demand, and the only sanctuary for monarch butterflies in the world, for which Michoacán is famous. A 2016 Associated Press report said that as many as 20,000 acres of forest was being converted to avocado orchards, with an estimated loss of one-fifth of the native forests from 2001 to 2017 and increasing dramatically since 2017.
Avocados consume 50 – 60 litres of water per day. In contrast, a native pine tree consumes roughly 11 liters of water per day. However, avocado trees are not particularly fertilizer consumptive. Irrigation can be reduced with inoculation of symbiotic mycorrhiza, a type of soil fungi that greatly increases uptake of phosphorus and water. One study I read concluded that the growth rate of inoculated avocado trees was a massive 250% higher than uninoculated trees. Producers of quality inocula are extremely reluctant to approach growers, for reasons addressed below.

Cartels and Avocados
Are cartels involved in this rapidly expanding agro industry? In August 2023 National Public Radio (NPR), a USA nonprofit radio network podcast, featured a story entitled: Caliber 60: The violent underbelly of the avocado industry (www.npr.org/podcasts/1162033047/caliber-60). It is well known that Cartel Jalisco Nueva Generación has been involved in the industry, extortion and extreme violence being common practices.
In response, some communities in Michoacán have formed their own citizen self-defense groups like Pueblos Unidos, who, according to the podcast, turned out to be equally bad as the narcos. The title refers to the fact that at least 80% of the firearms in Mexico can be traced to the US.

While we were in Morelia, I picked up a local paper (February 29, 2024) that included an article about a meeting between the governor of Michoacan and the US ambassador to Mexico, Ken Salazar. The meeting focused on the US’s desire to only import avocados that have been grown on land that has not been illegally de-forested (I assume recently) and certified accordingly. Further, ‘This is consistent with both countries’ efforts to combat climate change and is in the interest of American consumers and members of the Indigenous communities of Michoacán and Jalisco who are at risk for defending their forests and water,” said Sen. Peter Welch, a Democrat from Vermont, alluding to organized crime.

Journalists
Full circle, back to journalists and journalism; Mexico can be a tough country. In 2021, President Andrés Manuel López Obrador (aka AMLO), took aim, so to speak, at three reporters during his morning press briefing, including Ciro Gómez Leyva, a well-known T.V. anchor. Leyva subsequently barely escaped an assassination attempt; his car was protected with bullet-resistant glass windows.

As for the media outlet, the Monitor Michoacán, the cameraman was assassinated first, and the subject of the article, the founder and lead journalist determined to expose a link between the local government and the cartels, was murdered in his home 46 days later. From the NY Times article, the author wrote ‘Mexico is a hall of mirrors to any journalist. It is so hard to tell who is telling the truth because the line between crime fighter and criminal has become so blurred it often ceases to exist.’

The Street Names of La Crucecita

By Julie Etra

The cross streets of La Crucecita are almost entirely named for trees, and the vertical streets for flowering plants. Some are scientific names, some are common names, some are native species – the origins of some are not clear. For the most part, the names were chosen from the species of the dominant native plant community along the coast, known as selva seca (dry jungle). Selva seca is a winter deciduous (caducifolio) tropical forest. The decision to name the streets for native plants was apparently made by Juan Carlos Campillo Ojeda, an engineer working for FONATUR (Fondo Nacional de Fomento al Turismo) at the time the Bays of Huatulco resort was developed in the 1980s.

Bahías de Huatulco is the last of five federally planned resorts developed by FONATUR, which was created in 1964 to promote tourism through, among other things, resorts like Huatulco. The five major resorts developed by FONATUR are Cancun, Loreto, Los Cabos, Ixtapa/Zihuatenejo, and Huatulco. FONATUR has recently been relieved of its custodial responsibilities for Huatulco, which now falls under the aegis of the state and municipal governments.

The Grid

La Crucecita, even though a relatively new town (1985), was not laid out on a precisely north-south axis; the street grid runs northwest/southeast beside Blvd Chahue as it runs up to Route 200. It is easier, however, to think of the streets as being north-south and east-west. The grid is centered around the main square (zocalo) with its prominent kiosk, and fronts the town church, the Parroquia Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe y de la Santa Cruz.

There are four major north-south streets – Jazmin on the west (two-way), Gardenia on the west side of the zocalo (one-way south), Bugambilia on the east side of the zocalo (one-way north), and Carrizal on the east (one-way south). There are 16 east-west streets, and then there a few small streets that continue bigger streets or have names of their own.

The Street Names, Explained

Of course, walking is an outdoor sport, and so you should be thinking of the actual trees that the street names represent. The following is a very brief summary of the plant characteristics, a little natural history, and some interesting factoids. For the nerdily inclined readers of The Eye who are interested in botany, the common name of the tree, shrub, or flower is followed by the scientific name – Genus – followed by the name of the species. When genus is followed by the word “species,” it means that there is more than one species or type.

North-South Streets (West to East)

These streets are all named for ornamental plants.

Violetas (Viola species). This refers to violets. The Violaceae family does not have any native representatives on the coast, as the climate is too hot, nor have I (yet) seen any ornamental plants in the local nurseries. If you go farther north and higher up, the Ponderosa violet (Viola umbraticola) ranges from New Mexico in the U.S. to the state of Tlaxcala, east of Mexico City.

Plumbago (Plumbago species). This is a very common tropical ornamental plant with numerous species. The classic blue plumbago’s scientific name is Plumbago auriculata. It is native to South Africa (as is the calla lily, made famous by Diego Rivera, and agapanthus, the Lily of the Nile); all three are common around Huatulco. Plumbago does well in clay pots (macetas) and attracts pollinators, such as butterflies and bees, but all parts, including the bark, fruit, pollen, roots, sap, and seeds irritate the skin and eyes and can be harmful if ingested.

Jazmin (Jasminum grandiflorum is the most commonly planted), or jasmine in English. This vine is native to southern Asia, the Arabian Peninsula, northeast Africa, and the Yunnan and Sichuan regions of China, although it grows well in many tropical and semi tropical climates. Its flowers are white and aromatic, and the vine appears delicate.

Gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides). This aromatic, evergreen, ornamental shrub is spelled just as it is in English. A fun factoid, it is in the same family with coffee. It is a small shrub and does well in macetas. It is native to tropical and subtropical regions of Africa, Asia, Pacific Islands, and Australia.

Bugambilia (Bougainvillea glabra). English speakers call and spell it by its scientific name Bougainvillea. This plant is native to Brazil, and it has an interesting French connection. It was first described by Philibert Commerçon, who was the first botanist sponsored by a national government to accompany an exploratory voyage. The voyage, intended to circumnavigate the globe, was led by the French admiral Louis Antoine de Bougainville, so the newly-discovered plant was named for him. The name was included in the Genera Plantarum, the first published classification of plant materials, put together by the French botanist Antoine Laurent de Jussieu in 1789; the name was finally codified in the 1930s in the Index Kewensis Plantarum Phanerogamarum, the reference work maintained by Kew Gardens outside London.

Another interesting story – it is possible that the first European to describe this plant was actually the botanical expert Jeanne Baret, Commerçon’s partner and assistant. Because women were not allowed on ships, she disguised herself as a man and thus became the first woman to circumnavigate the globe. Women were at the time forbidden to be botanists, as plants are primarily identified and described by their reproductive parts, and that was considered scandalous.

Bugambilias thrive in full sun and sandy, well-drained soils. The colorful petals are not petals at all but bracts, or modified leaves; the central flower itself is small and inconspicuous. It has been cultivated for decades, with over 300 varieties available. This versatile, thorned plant can be pruned as a hedge, bush, or tree. Here in Huatulco, I planted two called sorpresa (surprise) since bracts are both pink and white. Although it is a tough plant, like many tropical ornamental plants, it is vulnerable to predation by leaf-cutting ants, known as hormigas arrieras, or muleteers, since they carry a burden of chewed off bracts and leaves back to their nests.

Carrizal means “place where the carrizos grow,” which would be a wetland or floodplain. And what indeed is carrizo? This is a type of large, stout grass and may have referred to several different plants, including grasses, rushes, cattails, and bulrushes, found primarily along riverine or riparian areas. Was this area indeed at some point a wetland? Not from what I have seen and read. It is considered an invasive plant in the U.S., controlled by fire and flooding along the Rio Grande.

East-West Streets (South to North)

Acacia (Acacia species). Acacias are a large group of trees and shrubs in the pea family, characterized by fern-like leaves and small ball-like white or yellow flowers. Plants in the pea family generally have a pea-like pod called a vaina in Spanish. There are a number of native species in Huatulco; some have spines, like the common Acacia cornigera (cuernitos, or “little horns”), which occurs at slightly higher elevation than the coast. This tree has prominent hollow spines in which resides a tiny ant with a nasty bite; they protect the tree from other plant-eating predators (herbivores) while receiving nutrition from the tree.

Ceiba (Ceiba pentandra). The ceiba tree, aka kapok, is in the same family with the pochote and the bailador (dancer), which we know in English as the shaving brush tree. In some places in Mexico, the ceiba is also known as pochote, but botanists see them as distinct in both genus and species, although both are in the Malvaceae family (see Pochote below).

The ceiba tree described here is a huge tree upon maturity, with a spiny, stout, single trunk, large fruits with tasty corn-like kernels/seeds that mature into a cotton-like fluff. The leaves are palm shaped. It was sacred to the Maya of eastern Mexico and Central America, as they believed it connected the heavens to the underworld through the earth. Along with the Guanacaste, this is one of the first trees you see in the median when approaching Huatulco from Highway 200. It is bat-pollinated and can live for hundreds of years. It is the national tree of Guatemala.

Cocotillo. I could not find a plant that corresponds to this common name, although it can be argued that it means “cultivated coconut.” Coco for “coconut” and tillado for “tilled” or “cultivated.” Might be a stretch.

Colorin (Erythrina coralloides). Like the acacia, this plant is in the pea family. It has a lovely almost tubular red flower that attracts butterflies and hummingbirds. The seeds are very poisonous.

Chacah (Bursera simaruba). Chacah is the Mayan name for this tree, aka gumbo limbo, with its peeling bark. This is a very interesting family of trees represented by 13 species in the Cacaluta watershed. They can often be distinguished by their peeling bark and berry-like red fruits, and large featherlike leaves. They are easily spotted in the landscape. The whimsical Oaxacan sculptures known as alebrije are from a related species, copal; the word copal originates from its Náhuatl name Copalquahuitl.

Flamboyan (Caesalpinia pulcherrima or Delonix regia). Like many common names, this one could be referring to two different plants. I am assuming it is the Caesalpinia pulcherrima, also known by another common name, tabachin. This colorful native tree has red/orange flowers and fern-like leaves, a long pea-pod fruit, as it is in the pea family. It attracts many pollinating insects and birds.

Guamuchil (Pithecelobium dulce). As the species name implies, this pea-family native has a sweet (dulce) fruit, pinkish on the inside, which attracts many species of birds, squirrels, and insects. It tends to grow near drainages and riparian areas. It can be found growing next to the huaje (Leucaena leucocephala) trees across the street from the Bladu’Yú restaurant near the entrance to Chahue beach.

Guanacastle (Enterolobium cyclocarpum). Also spelled guanacaste, this is a very large tree with a huge, broad, saucer-shaped canopy seen when entering La Crucecita south from Highway 200. It has a smooth bark, and unique ear-shaped fruits. With difficulty the seeds can be removed from the fruit and ground to produce a flour and then baked into delicious cookies (if you have a lot of free time). It is illegal to harvest here without a permit, and the wood can only be obtained through supposedly legal means and after natural senescence. The wood is beautiful, very hard, and bug resistant, even to termites. When cut and sanded it produces a somewhat toxic sawdust. It is the national tree of Costa Rica. Pura Vida!

Guarumbo (Cecropia obtusifolia). Although there is one in the garden of the Binniguenda hotel in Santa Cruz, this tree generally begins to appear in the next ecosystem north and away from the coast at a higher elevation, where vegetation is tropical and green all year (siempre verde = always green, like the Italian or Mediterranean cypress, Cupressus sempervirens). For house plant fans, it looks like a schefflera on steroids; if you visit Hagia Sofia or Pluma Hidalgo, you will see the tree shortly after leaving Santa María Huatulco on your way north. It is tall, with large leaves, and is easily distinguished from the surrounding landscape.

Macuitle. This appears to be a Hispanicized version of the Náhuatl word macuahuitl, which was a weapon of war, a wooden club with several embedded obsidian blades; the name means “hand-wood.” It was effectively used by the Mexica (Aztecs) against the invading Spaniards, as chronicled by Bernal Díaz de Castillo, a soldier in the army of Hernán Cortés, and the author of Historia Verdadura de la Conquista de la Nueva España (The True History of the Conquest of New Spain). Although I do not find that it corresponds to a particular tree, it was no doubt made of hardwood. According to Díaz and several other commentators, Aztec warriors could kill a horse with a single slash of the macuahuitl.

Macuil (Handroanthus impetiginosus, Tabebuia chrysantha, Tabebuia rosea). Ay yay yay yay. There are at least three of these magnificent flowering trees native to the area, all known as macuil, also spelled maquil, and all members of the Bignoniaceae family. They bloom at different times, with the yellow flowering trees lining Blvd Benito Juarez in the vicinity of La Bocana in January, and the pink/purplish flowering tree (Tabebuia rosea) dominating in March. The bright pink Handroanthus impetiginosus blooms in late October to mid-November. It is the national tree of Paraguay. All of them attract birds, particularly orioles.

Ocotillo (Cordia eleagnoides). This tree is locally known by another common name, parota, and is not to be confused with the cactus-like plants of the southwestern deserts of the United States of America. This native, moderate-sized tree lines Benito Juarez Blvd. east of La Crucecita from approximately Balcones de Tangolunda to La Bocana. It has a broad canopy with white flowers, and blooms twice a year. The wood, sometimes known as bocote, is hard, heavy, and insect resistant and is used in construction, particularly for the support structures of palapas.

Palma Real (Roystonea regia). As its common Spanish name implies, we know this tree as the royal palm, a tall, stately palm with a whitish trunk. It is native to the Caribbean, Mexico, Florida, and parts of Central America. It is the national tree of Cuba.

Palo Verde (Parkinsonia aculeata). The name means “green stick” in Spanish. Here we go again with confusing common names. Referring to my bible, Cátalogo de Nombres Vulgares y Cientificos de Plantas Mexicanas by Maximino Martínez (México: Fondo de Cultura Económico, 1979), there are eight trees that correspond to this name. The La Crucecita street name Palo Verde is most probably the one that grows in hot areas of Oaxaca, and not the one commonly found in southwestern United States. What the species have in common are the green trunks and branches, where photosynthesis occurs, providing essential carbohydrates (sugars) when the leaves drop from this deciduous plant.

Pochote (Ceiba aesculifolia). The multiple stemmed trunks have spines, but they are not as prominent as those of the ceiba. The flowers are large and before they emerge, the buds resemble those of the shaving brush tree, to which it is related.

Sabali. This was a tough one. Saba or sabal is a type of fan palm tree, or palmetto, found in tropical and subtropical climates (South Carolina, US, is called “The Palmetto State”). Sabalí, with an accent over the ‘i’, may be referring to a species of fig, or Ficus. The street name is NOT Sábila, so forgive me while I digress – you are sure to encounter sábila plants in Huatulco.

Sábila is Aloe vera (Aloe barbadensis miller), native to the Arabian Peninsula but happy in many tropical surroundings. “Aloe” comes from the Arabic alloeh, which means “bitter and shiny substance,” or from the Hebrew אוהלים ahalim, the aloes mentioned in the Old Testament. Aloe vera has medicinal properties and is applied externally to heal skin due to its mucilaginous texture and antiseptic properties. Taken internally it may improve digestion and support healthy blood sugar levels, but it can also cause digestive problems. It can also be used to seal cuttings of woody tropical plants, prolonging their storage, until they can be propagated directly in soil or in water.

Note: Mostly unrelated, but I wonder whether readers of The Eye have noticed that the National Park (Parque Nacional) has a new name. Recently big green signs have appeared along Highway 200 and other major thoroughfares with the new name for the park, Ricardo Flores Magón. Flores Magón was a well-known anarchist, socialist, activist, writer, and a major figure in the Mexican Revolution. Look him up.

Lorena Ramírez: Top Runner of the Rarámuri

By Julie Etra

Who is this Lorena Ramírez? And why are she and her people such exceptional runners? To understand why Lorena and her family are so exceptional, we first need to understand who they are and where they come from.

Who Are the Rarámuri?
First, a little background. The Rarámuri, or Tarahumara as the Spanish called them, live in the Barrancas del Cobre (Copper Canyon) in southwestern Chihuahua, a state in Northern Mexico; in 2017, there were about 120,000 Rarámuri.

The word rarámuri means “foot runners” in their language (rara = “foot,” muri = “to run”), which follows their ancient tradition of running “on winged feet.” Now mostly confined to the Copper Canyon, the Rarámuri had previously occupied much of Chihuahua, but sought refuge from the invading Spanish in the 16th century. The majority still practice a traditional mostly self-sufficient lifestyle, using little technology, cultivating traditional crops and many, like the Ramírez family, raising livestock. Their homes in the canyons can be pretty basic; some families live in caves or cliff overhangs. They also produce lovely basketry, for sale at major tourist destinations in Chihuahua like Divisadero and Creel.

When Rarámuri runners head off for ultra-distance runs, their choice of sustenance is not energy bars or electrolytes, but rather pinole (a maize-based powder used in a variety of recipes) and tortillas, and they don’t train for these events in any typical sense. Despite their storied fame as endurance runners, they have only recently gained attention on an international scale, competing against world-renowned runners.

As part of a traditional rarájipari event, which is largely spiritual, the male competitors kick a komakali, a baseball-sized wooden ball. The women may compete in a race called ariwete, using hooked sticks to flick a hoop as they run. Although the Rarámuri hunt with bow and arrow, and (rarely) firearms, anthropologists believe the tradition of running may have evolved from “persistence hunting,” with the prey – particularly deer and turkeys – pursued on foot until the animal collapses from exhaustion or heat stroke. Anthropologists have also concluded that running has both social and spiritual significance for the Rarámuri.

The Copper Canyon

The canyon actually consists of six distinct canyons – Urique, Sinforosa, Copper, Tararecua, Batopilas, and Oteros – within the Sierra Madre Occidental (literally, the western mother mountain range). Together, they cover 65,000 sq. km. (±25,000 sq. mi.), more than four times the surface area and almost twice as deep as the Grand Canyon in the US state of Arizona. The average altitude is 2,275 meters (±7,465 ft) above sea level; the highest point, Cerro del Mohinora, is 3,306 meters (±10,845 ft.) and the lowest point, at the confluence of the Septentrion and Chínipas Rivers, is around 220 meters (±725 ft.). The average yearly rainfall is 38 cm (±15 inches). The topography is dramatic, with rocky outcrops and vertical, sheer slopes, and has been described as one of the most extreme landscapes in the world.

With the exception of the very bottom of the canyons the rocky formations resulted from explosive volcanic ash flows, ash falls, and mudflow breccias (sharp-angled rocks cemented together), all deposited approximately 20 to 40 million years ago and subsequently carved into canyons by the six rivers that drain from the western flank of the mountains, merging into the Rio Fuerte which flows into the Gulf of California in the state of Sinaloa. The Batopilas River flows through the bottom of the Batopilas (= place of the closed-in waters) Canyon; the small community of Batopilas was founded in 1708 when a large silver ore deposit was discovered by the Spanish explorer José de la Cruz. Although there is a reddish-copper hue in the geologic formations, the area was, and still is, mined primarily for silver and to a lesser extent, gold. Mexico is the largest silver-producing country in the world.

El Chepe

The Copper Canyon is remote, and access to the bottom of the canyon is poor; there are no paved roads and the few dirt roads are not well maintained. After many years of planning and construction, starting in 1861, interrupted by the Mexican Revolution (1910-21), and completed a century later in 1961, the Ferrocarril Chihuahua al Pacifico (Chihuahua-Pacific Railway) runs 650 km (±400 miles from Creel in the Canyon to the coast at Los Mochis. The train is called El Chepe (a contraction of Chihuahua al Pacifico), and crosses 37 bridges and travels through 86 tunnels.

The trip is particularly spectacular between Los Mochis and Divisadero. Vegetation is diverse due to the highly variable topography, with oak/pine/fir woodlands dominating at the higher elevations and herbaceous pastures in the riparian areas deep in the canyons, accompanied by subtropical vegetation. Species of agave and cactus dot the landscape in the rocky habitat. El Chepe recently added a new luxury train, mostly intended to accommodate tourists; it features a bar car with panoramic views.

María Lorena Ramírez Hernández

María Lorena Ramírez Hernández, better known as Lorena Ramírez, is a remarkable indigenous marathon runner who gained worldwide renown in 2017 after winning two gold medals in tough Mexican mountain races. One medal was for the UltraTrail Cerro Rojo in the state of Puebla (just over 50 km [±31 mi]), which she ran in 7 hours, 20 minutes, barefoot; the other gold medal was for the UltraMaratón de los Cañones, a brutal 100 km (±62 mi) in Guachochi, Chihuahua, near where she was born. Her time was 12:44:25. She had won the silver medal in the UltraMaratón in 2016, and went on to win a silver in the Ultramaratón Caballo Blanco, in Urique, Chihuahua, in 2018. In 2023, she placed first in the Ultratrail Sierra del Laurel in Calvillo, Aguascalientes, a distance of 42 km (±26 mi) in 5:58:17.

In June of 2017, on the heels of her two gold medals, Lorena became the first Rarámuri woman to compete in a European ultra. The Ultramaratón de Cajamar Tenerife, the “Bluetrail,” is the second-highest race in Europe and a distance of 102 km. (63 mi.). She placed third in 20:11:37.

A Family of Runners

The Ramírez family lives in Guachochi, an isolated valley with no neighbors in the bottom of the canyon. Lorena and her siblings Juanita, Talina, Mario, and Antonio walk five hours to the nearest school and four hours to the nearest grocery. Her brothers attended school while she and her sisters tended to the goats, the center of their pastoral life, while also cultivating corn, beans, squash, and greens among other crops on their farm. The family are for the most part self-sufficient. A perennial creek runs through their property, providing a clean source of water. The women of the family sew their own traditional dresses – Lorena dons a lighter version of the traditional skirt when she competes.

Lorena’s father, Santiago Ramírez, took her to compete in her first race of 7 km (4.3 mi) in the municipality of Cuauhtémoc, Chihuahua, which she won, having no idea of her capabilities at the time. Although she never dreamed of being a runner or marathoner, she was born into it. She comes from a family of runners, as they run everywhere around their rural property. Her father has won the Ultramaratón de los Cañones three times, the brutal 102-km cross country trail that gave her that second gold medal.

The Ramírez family members have won various races without the government’s help, commercial sponsorship, or professional training; they have achieved success due to their talent, perseverance, and lifestyle, which is very physical. To support travel to various events, they receive donations through their Facebook page:
http://www.facebook.com/mario.ramirez.71066700.

When Lorena first started winning races, she and her family saw the prize money as a way to buy food. They have moved on – in 2019, when she was 22, she was profiled in the excellent 2019 Netflix documentary Lorena, Light-Footed Woman. The executive producer for this 30-minute documentary was the well-known Mexican actor, director, and producer Gael García Bernal (If you have never seen his breakout movie Y tu mamá también [2001], do so. Playa Cacaluta makes a cameo appearance). In 2019, Lorena was also the cover story in Vogue Mexico; in June 2022, she began marketing her brand of running outfits, called Lorena imparable (unstoppable Lorena).

Quiet and unassuming, Lorena says she does not think about anything when she runs, that it just feels good, and she stays focused on the objective of the race: getting to the finish line.

Upon receiving a gift of high-tech running shoes, she rewrapped them, placed the box back in the plastic bag and explained “I don’t think I will use them. The people who do are always running behind me.”

The next Ultramaratón de los Cañones will take place on July 5-7, 2024. Vamos a ver – We shall see.

I Heart Axolotls

By Julie Etra

The first time I saw the salamander called axolotl(s) (Ambystoma mexicanum, aka ajolote) endemics of the remnant lakes of the Valley of Mexico and now confined to Xochimilco, was in Xochimilco at one of the tourist ‘museums’ along a main canal.

The pinkish creatures on exhibit are commercially produced, and not native to the polluted waters of Xochimilco, the wetland system in the heart of Mexico City. and they exhibit the pinkish color of domestication. Wild populations are brown/tan with gold speckles and an olive undertone. This critically endangered species lost most of its habitat centuries ago due to the draining of the valley by the conquering Spaniards, with Xochimilco now a vestige of its former self. Axolotls have a lizard-like head, described as “friendly-faced,” surrounded by feathery gills, four legs, and a tail. They range in size from 6 to 18 inches.

Cute, But Critically Endangered

The axolotl is only found in the wild in the waters of Xochimilco. A 2003 study by the Mexican Academy of Sciences found an average of 6,000 axolotls for each sq km of Xochimilco, about 1,020,000 axolotls; by 2015, it was down to 36 per sq km, or about 6,120. A more recent study found fewer than a thousand in all of the 170 square kilometers of Xochimilco.

The ancient Aztec capital of Tenochtitlán, now Mexico City, was founded in the early 1300s CE on an island in Lake Texcoco. Texcoco was connected with four other lakes in the Valley of Mexico, one of which was Xochimilco. After the Spaniards conquered the Aztecs in 1521, they drained much of the valley, leaving Xochimilco a vestige of its former self.

Habitat for the axolotl was sharply reduced but still existed up until about the 1950s. Since then, habitat degradation has accelerated as rapid urbanization has changed the distribution, movement, and management of water systems in the Valley.

In addition, the water system has been degraded by pollution from urban runoff and uncontrolled development, raw sewage, agricultural waste, and land use conversion, and has been reduced by drawdown of lake levels to supply water to Mexico City and the surrounding environs. Today, most of the water in Xochimilco’s canals comes from a water treatment plant in nearby Cerro de la Estrella, but supplies are inconsistent.

Predation is also a factor in the axolotl’s decline. Carp and tilapia were introduced in Xochimilco in the 1970s in an effort to increase food supplies; unfortunately, they prey on axolotl eggs and young. Loss of shade cover and food – they eat mollusks, worms, insect larvae, brine shrimp, other small crustacea, and small fish – also continue to accompany loss of habitat.

Why is it so important to “bring back” the wild axolotl? For the same reason preserving all species is important – genetic variation. As noted below, the axolotl is very important to biological research, as it is one of the few animals that can regenerate lost body parts. Commercial breeding technology reduces genetic variation, thus weakening the organism’s ability to adapt. This affects the animal’s ability to survive in the wild, and to respond to changes introduced in research.

Physiology and Morphology

This rather large salamander has a number of physiological features that make it unusual. Although it is one species of tiger salamander, it is unique in its “neoteny,” a zoological term that means the retention of juvenile features into adulthood, that is, the axolotl never undergoes metamorphosis, for example, the process of a tadpole changing to a frog. The axolotl’s gills remain external, and they retain their tail fins. Unlike other salamanders this one never makes it to land, completing its life cycle entirely in the water.

The axolotl is important for research because it has can rapidly regenerate parts of itself, making it useful for studying the potential for tissue regeneration in humans. In just a few months, they can regenerate not just their tails, but their skin, muscles, bones, blood vessels, central nervous system, heart, and brain.

What other animals can regenerate body parts? In fact, quite a few. Other species of salamanders can regenerate their tails; starfish can regenerate their “arms” and their bodies from arms; sharks regrow their teeth throughout their lives. The Mexican tetra, a fresh water fish, can regrow heart tissue. Many lizards, including iguanas, skinks, anoles, and geckos, can regenerate their tails. But none of these can do as much as the axolotl.

Despite remaining juvenile all their lives, axolotls reach sexual maturity at 17-27 months and can breed several times a year. Because their habitat is entirely aquatic – that is, no drought conditions – they can generate more offspring per breeding event (salamanders do not reproduce well, often not at all, under drought conditions). After the courtship dance, the female axolotl takes up the sperm capsule deposited by the male. Fertilized eggs are laid individually on aquatic vegetation.

The Axolotl in Mythology

The axolotl loomed large in Mexica (the Aztec group that built Tenochtitlán) mythology, and they were included in their art and creation myths. The name axolotl (from the Nahuatl atl = “water” and xólotl = “monster” or “dog”) means water monster or water dog, and is the aquatic form of Xólotl, the Aztec god of fire and lightning and the twin brother of Quetzalcóatl (the feathered serpent deity).

According to Aztec legend – and there are many versions of each legend – when the sun was created, it did not move. Each god was supposed to sacrifice a body part to make the sun move and to begin life, but Xólotl did not want to sacrifice any part of himself. To hide from fellow gods (would-be assassins), Xólotl transformed himself into a variety of plants and animals, including the xoloitzcuintle, the hairless pre-Columbian dog. The axolotl was his last camouflage before he was captured and killed.

The Axolotl in Literature

An obscure short story, written in 1954, was brought to my attention by a good and extremely literate friend from Pluma Hidalgo. “Axolotl” is by the French-Argentinian writer Julio Cortázar (1914-84), and was published in his 1956 collection End of the Game and Other Stories. The story is told by a lonely man visiting the aquarium at the zoo (ménagerie) at the Museum of Natural History in Paris. He becomes fascinated and obsessed by the axolotls and eventually believes he has been transformed into one of them. Although I read it in English, I found it to be dark and depressing, and overly descriptive. (Available through the University of Kentucky at http://www.ambystoma.uky.edu/teachers_materials/axolitbook/AxolotlByJulioCortazar.html.)

Another read is Axolotiada: Vida y mito de un anfibio mexicano (Axolotiada: Life and Myth of a Mexican Amphibian), by Mexican anthropologist Roger Bartra Murià (2011). An anthology of works about the famous amphibian, the book includes texts from the Mesoamerican codices to the work of authors such as Cortázar, Satoshi Tajir, Aldous Huxley (“A Fetal Monkey”), Primo Levi (“Angelical Butterfly”) and Octavio Paz (“Salamandra”), among others, along with graphics from street graffiti to the scientific illustrations of landscape painter José María Velasco and the murals of Diego Rivera.

Axolotls for the Laboratory

The majority of commercially-bred axolotls in the world today trace their ancestry to a shipment of 34 axolotls from Xochimilco to Paris in 1863, delivered to the zoo at the Museum of Natural History, the very place that inspired Cortázar to write his strange tale. The amphibian is easy to breed in captivity and prolific. Animals were then supplied to various labs throughout Europe for research purposes.

Axolotls came from Europe to the US in 1935; five of those eventually made it into the hands of Dr. Rufus R. Humphrey, who bred more at the University of Buffalo. When he retired in 1957, Humphrey and his axolotls moved to Indiana University (the axolotls arrived in Bloomington by truck). When the head of the Indiana lab retired in 2005, the US axolotl collection relocated to the University of Kentucky and became the Ambystoma Genetic Stock Center (AGSC), but the genetic material has apparently bottlenecked from inbreeding. Thus the importance of saving the wild axolotl population in Xochimilco.

The Icon

The salamander has become so popular that in addition to being kept as pets, it recently won a 2017 contest to develop an “emoji pack” to represent Mexico City. There’s a Frida Kahlo axolotl, a Mexican flag axolotl wrapped in a snake, etc., etc.

If you look online in Mercado Libre or Amazon Mexico, or pretty much anywhere, you’ll find multiple axolotl accessories, particularly for children – charms, stuffed animals (peluche), coloring books. There are tee shirts for adults, not to mention beer (www.monstruodeagua.mx/)! In 2022, the Bank of Mexico issued a new 50-peso bill with a depiction of the now iconic salamander among the chinampas of Xochimilco on one side. On February 1, 2023 (National Axolotl Day in Mexico, in case you were wondering), the Chapultepec Zoo opened Anfibion, the Axolotl Museum and Amphibian Conservation Center, dedicated to the amphibian’s remarkable history and efforts to preserve the species.

Axolotls as Food

The Mexica fished and consumed axolotls – they were a supposed mainstay on the banquet tables of Aztec kings. And how did the Mexica prepare them? Pretty simple. First, the “hairs” (presumably the gills) were trimmed. Then the guts were removed, the remaining carcass washed and dried, seasoned with salt and dried chiles, wrapped in corn husks, and finally steamed. Provecho!

Some Xochimilco natives grew up eating axolotls in a type of tamale, combined with fish and vegetables.

I find this particularly interesting since the skin, in particular, of most salamanders, including other tiger salamanders, is toxic. Contact can numb some parts of the body, starting from the lips, tongue, the whole face, then going down to the arms and legs. Numbness can be followed by dizziness, muscle weakness, excessive drooling (no kidding), and finally to paralysis of the respiratory muscles. Axolotls, however, lack the skin glands that secrete the toxic mucus that protects against predators and poisons those who eat the skin.

Saving the Axolotl

Recently, serious efforts have focused on an ecosystem approach, restoring habitat at a very small scale. To support a native, successfully breeding population requires that you restore water quality and reduce, if not eliminate, any introduced predators. The revival of the ancient, traditional system of chinampa farming in the floating gardens of Xochimilco is the key to preserving the axolotls. For more on the chinampas, see my article “Chinampas, Calzadas, and Aqueducts,” in the February 2023 issue of The Eye (https://theeyehuatulco.com/?s=chinampas).

Political will, accompanied by active participation by the chinamperos, is obviously essential as symbiotic restoration of traditional farming provides the needed habitat.

In late 2023, The New York Times ran an article, “What It Takes To Save the Axolotl,” describing the comprehensive, albeit painstakingly slow and incremental, approach being implemented by the government and a team of biologists and farmers. High-quality sanctuaries are being recreated in isolated waters to support axolotl growth and reproduction while limiting predatory attacks by exotic fish (https://www.nytimes.com/2023/12/05/science/mexico-axolotl-biology.html).

In the early 2000s, the Mexican government had approached Dr. Luis Zambrano, an ecologist at the National Autonomous University of Mexico (UNAM), to survey the declining population. His UNAM lab is home to 150 axolotls from wild bloodlines. In 2017 he released 10 animals into an artificial lake on the campus to observe their behavior and collect data. This research continues. In addition to Dr. Zambrano, another team headed by biologist María Huitzil is studying the animal’s microbiota e.g., bacteria, fungi, viruses etc.; an additional group of researchers is being led by Dr. José Antonio Ocampo.

Dr. Zambrano recently released 12 animals in bamboo cages lowered into excavated soils in the artificial lake. The keys to creating successful isolated refuges are surprisingly simple and elegant: semipermeable volcanic rocks filter the water and block predators (the rock is readily available given the volcanic activity in the area), and vegetation provides habitat. Revived techniques of organic farming are becoming more accepted by some chinamperos, thus reducing contamination. Carlos Sumano, a UNAM agronomist, has for the past 11 years personally promoted traditional farming methods on his own chinampas.

And what happened to the 12 axolotls Zambrano released? After two months one of the 12 had died “of causes yet to be determined, and a pump had to be installed to improve oxygen levels in one canal. ‘But that’s all part of the experiment, right?’ Dr. Zambrano said. The rest of the axolotls were fat and happy.”

For more reading:

“A Tale of Two Axolotls” (www.academic.oup.com/bioscience/article/65/12/1134/223981)
“Axolotls in Crisis: The fight to Save the ‘Water Monster’ of Mexico City”
(www.theguardian.com/cities/2018/dec/04/axolotls-in-crisis-the-fight-to-save-the-water-monster-of-mexico-city)

Popocatépetl and Family

By Julie Etra

With 38 volcanoes, a dozen of them active, Mexico still only has the eighth most volcanoes in the world. It’s not the world leader in earthquakes, either. However, the mutual potential for for volcanoes and earthquakes to cause disaster hangs over the country like a pall of smoke.

Mexico’s Big Three Volcanoes

Popocatépetl, an active volcano, is the second highest peak in Mexico at an elevation of 5,393 m (17,694 ft), following the highest peak, Citlaltépetl (Pico de Orizaba) at an elevation 5,636 m (18,491 ft). It is affectionately known by its nickname “El Popo.” Its name is derived from the Nahuatl popōca, meaning “it smokes” and tepētl, meaning “mountain” or “smoking mountain.” Citlaltépetl is also derived from Nahuatl: citlal means “star” and of course tepētl = mountain. (There is a stationary store on Gardenia called Papeleria Citlalli, so now you know what it means.)

At an elevation 5,230 m (17,160 ft), Iztaccíhuatl is the third highest mountain in Mexico and occurs just north of El Popo. Its name means white woman in Nahuatl (iztāc = “white”; cihuātl = “woman”), since it resembles a woman lying on her back and is often snow-covered.

The three volcanoes are located to the east of Mexico City: Popocatépetl is about 70 km (43 miles) southeast of Mexico City, where the states of México, Morelos, and Puebla meet; on a clear day, it is easily seen from the city. Iztaccíhuatul is about 90 km (54 miles) from Mexico City. Pico de Orizaba, about 200 km (120 miles) from Mexico City, rises just west of the city of Orizaba at the border of the states of Puebla and Veracruz. Those who drive to Huatulco from the north easily see Popocatepétl and Iztaccíhuatul looking south from 150D; Pico de Orizaba is on your left as you leave the state of Puebla and enter Veracruz.

All three volcanos are steep-walled stratovolcanos, generally symmetrical and cone-shaped and with a 400 x 600 m wide crater. Stratovolcanoes are sometimes called composite volcanoes because of their composite layered structure, formed from successive eruptions (strato = layer in Latin). And all three occur along the Trans-Mexican volcanic belt, aka the Mexican “Ring of Fire,” which stretches across central Mexico from the Pacific Ocean to the Gulf of Mexico – route 150D runs right through the middle of the volcanic belt.

El Popo is geologically connected to Iztaccíhuatl, 12.9 km (8 miles) to the north through the Paso de Cortés; this is the high pass that Hernando Cortés and his men followed after their conquest of Cholula in 1519, on their way to conquer the capital of the Aztec/Mexica Empire, Tenochtitlán.

The two volcanoes are protected as they lie in the Izta-Popo Zoquiapan National Park, which runs north and south within the Sierra Nevada range (Sierra Nevada means “snow covered” [nevada] “mountain range” [sierra]). On the west side of the range the watershed provides snow melt and creek water to the Valley of Mexico (formerly Lake Texcoco). Until relatively recently, the three volcanoes were the only instance of glaciation – they had year-round snow/ice cover – in Mexico; in the 1990s, however, both the Glaciar Norte and the Glaciar del Ventorillo of Popocatépetl began to retreat, due to both warming conditions and increased volcanism. Although ice remains in some places, Popocatépetl’s glaciers were gone by 2001.

Popocatépetl is Mexico’s most active volcano with 15 eruptions recorded since 1519. On May 20, 2023, both Mexico City airports (Benito Juarez Mexico City International Airport [MEX] and Felipe Angeles International Airport [NLU]) had to close temporarily due to increased volcanic activity and ash fall. Most recently, on November 1, 2023, the cone exploded with gray ash. This activity is not unusual, and in fact we stopped to watch it smoking on our way from Mexico City to Puebla a few years ago, with the sun setting behind it. Spectacular. Iztaccíhuatl is dormant and has not erupted since 1868. Pico de Orizaba last erupted in 1846.

Legends of the Mexican Volcanos

The Legend of Popocatépetl and Iztaccíhuatl. Legend has it that these two mountains represent a young warrior and a young princess. Once upon a time in Mexico (but after the rise of the Aztec empire), a beautiful Tlaxcalan maiden princess named Iztaccíhuatl fell in love with a young Tlaxcalan warrior, Popoca. (Tlaxcala is now a small state southeast of Mexico City.) She was the most beautiful princess who ever existed, and he was one of the most handsome and brave warriors of his village.

The Tlaxacans sided with the Spanish during the conquest of 1519-1521 in an effort to end the costly tributes they paid to the sprawling Aztec empire with its centralized, wealthy capital of Tenochtitlán (basically, Mexico City). Before departing for the ongoing wars with the powerful Aztecs, Popoca asked the cacique (chief) of the village for the hand of the princess. This was granted under the condition that the young man return safe and sound.
Popoca left for battle, presumably with the forces of Cortés, while the princess waited impatiently for his return. Meanwhile a jealous, poison-tongued rival, also in love with the princess, lied to her, fabricating a story of how her beloved had died in battle. Overcome by grief and inconsolable through this treacherous deceit, she died from a broken heart. A short time later, Popoca returned victoriously from battle ready to take the hand of his betrothed, only to find that she had died.

It is said that the young man, dejected, wandered through the streets for days and nights contemplating a way to honor their great love for each other. He decided to build her a large tomb under the Sun and compiled 10 hills to build an enormous mountain. Once built, he took the inert body of his beloved and laid her on the top of the mountain. As he kneeled over her with a smoking torch in one hand, he kissed her one last time, watching her dream eternally.

Since then, they have remained together. Eventually snow covered their bodies, becoming the two snow-capped enormous volcanoes that will remain unchanged until the end of time. When the warrior Popoca, now the mountain Popocatépetl, remembers his beloved Iztaccíhuatl, his heart, which maintains the fire of eternal passion, trembles, and his torch ignites again. That is why, even today, the Popocatépetl volcano continues to spew plumes of smoke from its fumaroles.

The Legend of Pico de Orizaba. At the peak of the Olmec civilization lived a beautiful and brave warrior named Nahuani. She was always seen in the company of her best friend, an eagle named Ahuilizapan (in Nahuatl, the “place of the happy waters,” pronunciation reduced to “Orizaba” in Spanish). Their friendship was legendary, and Ahuilizapan was always with her in battle. Finally, Nahuani died in battle and such was Ahuilizapan’s sadness and pain, the eagle flew as high as she could and plummeted back down to earth, where she eventually became a mountain and then a volcano. After many years of relative tranquility, Ahuilizapan remembered the moment she lost her best friend and began to spew lava. This is the reason that even now people climb this peak as high as they can, leaving offerings to keep the eagle calm.

Geology and a Brief Lesson in Plate Tectonics

Or, why the southern coast of Mexico is particularly prone to earthquakes.

The rigid outer shell of the planet, known as the lithosphere, is fractured into seven or eight major plates (depending on how they are defined) and many minor plates (“platelets”). Where the plates meet, their motion in relation to each other determines the type of plate boundary, known as faults and fault zones. They can move side by side, known as a strike slip, and under adjacent plates, called subduction, and in all kinds of combinations of movement. The relative movement of the plates typically ranges from zero to 10 cm annually. Faults result in earthquakes, volcanic activity, mountain-building, and oceanic trench formation. The Trans-Mexican volcanic belt and associated volcanoes result from the the Pacific Plate and the smaller Cocos Plate subducting beneath the North American Plate.

Oaxaca lies over the convergent boundary where the Cocos Plate is subducted beneath the North American Plate. The rate of convergence in this part of the boundary is 60 mm per year, or six times what is typical. This boundary is associated with many damaging earthquakes along the plate interface, within the descending Cocos slab, and within the overriding North American Plate

The frequency of earthquakes along the Pacific coast of Mexico is increased by geologic activity in the Middle American Trench, a submarine depression that runs from below Baja California in Mexico to Costa Rica. This oceanic trench is a major subduction zone, containing the Pacific, Cocos, and Nazca Plates on the ocean side and the North American and Caribbean Plates on the inland side. The trench is 2,750 km (1,700 miles) long and 6,669 m (21,880 feet) deep at its deepest point.

The Tehuantepec Ridge runs straight (an unusual configuration) across the Cocos Plate and under mainland Mexico near the Oaxaca-Chiapas border. The ridge is an old fracture zone, a place where plates stick; many shallow subduction angles result in perfect conditions for frequent, strong Oaxacan earthquakes. Indeed, Oaxaca has had over 14,000 earthquakes in or near the region since 1995; a quarter of all the earthquakes in Mexico occur in Oaxaca, and no, there is no homeowner’s earthquake insurance that I know of.

Notable Mexican Earthquakes
Oaxacan earthquake of 1931. On January 14, 1931, a devastating earthquake with a magnitude of 7.8 struck the state capital, Oaxaca de Juárez. Oaxaca City was pretty isolated at the time, with only 35,000 inhabitants versus the current population of 300,050 (2014 census). The quake lasted about four minutes. Archives reported that 80% of the homes were destroyed, but a number of weaker tremors, or foreshocks, increasing in intensity, preceded the major quake, as opposed to aftershocks (replicas in Spanish). This tectonic warning allowed residents to flee their homes, resulting in only about 60 fatalities.

Mexico City earthquake of 1985 struck on September 19 at just after 7 a.m. with a magnitude of 8.0. (For reference, the strongest earthquake ever recorded was a magnitude 9.5; the Great Chilean Earthquake occurred in Valdivia, a town on the southern coast of Chile, on May 22, 1960.) The Mexico City seismic event caused serious damage to the Greater Mexico City urban area and at least 5,000 fatalities. A foreshock of magnitude 5.2 had occurred the prior May, the main quake was September 19, and there were two large aftershocks whose epicenters were in the Middle American Trench – more than 350 kilometers (220 mi) away.

The event caused between $3 and $5 billion USD in damage. Hundreds of buildings were destroyed and thousands more were seriously damaged. The degree of damage was due to the large magnitude of the quake, the size of the urbanized area, the lack of engineering in old structures, and the ancient, wave-amplifying lake bed on which Mexico City lies. This unstable substrate proides one of the ostensible reasons that President Andrés Manuel López Obrador halted construction of a new Mexico City airport in 2018).

Oaxacan earthquake of 2108. The hypocenter of this magnitude 7.2 earthquake was located 24.5 km (15 miles) deep, and the epicenter was about 37 km (23 miles) northeast of Pinotepa de Don Luis in northwest Oaxaca near the border with the state of Guerrero. (The hypocenter is where IN the earth the quake starts; the epicenter is ON the surface). The epicenter was in a rural area, with little reported damage to structures. A total of 14 people were killed as a result of a military helicopter crash surveying the damage, and not from the earthquake itself.

Oaxacan earthquake of 2020. The last big earthquake in Oaxaca occurred on June 23, 2020, with a magnitude of 7.5. The epicenter was between San Miguel del Puerto (north and west of Copalita) and the small village of Santa María Zapotitlán on the Isthmus. While it shook here in Huatulco, with over 200 replicas, it devastated the town of Juchitán de Zaragoza on the Isthmus of Tehauntepec, where older structures were not engineered to withstand strong earthquakes. The quake was felt by an estimated 49 million people as far south as Guatemala, with some tremors felt as far away as 640 kilometers (400 mi). Thousands of houses in Oaxaca were damaged and ten fatalities were reported. A tsunami warning was issued for southern Mexico and as far south as Honduras, but the tsunami did not occur.

Mexican construction requirements have been strengthened to avoid earthquake damage. When we designed our house in Huatulco almost 15 years ago, the plans had to be approved by FONATUR in Mexico City, at the federal level, and withstand an 8.0 quake. That’s a lot of rebar but we had no damage to the house other than a few superficial cracks.