Tag Archives: Mercado Medellín

The Gourmet Triangle: Eats in Roma Norte, Roma Sur, and Condesa

By Carole Reedy—

Surely you’ve heard about the variety and quality of the restaurants in this charming historic area of Mexico City. What you may not realize is that you don’t have to empty your wallet to enjoy a memorable meal.

The recommendations listed here won’t be found in the many articles naming the “Top Ten” places to eat in Mexico City, but they do promise authentic flavors, a warm Mexican welcome, and a meal you’ll still feel good about when the credit card bill arrives.

The Colonias
The neighborhoods (colonias) of Roma Norte, Roma Sur, and Condesa form a triangle just southwest of the city center. It’s an easy area to explore on foot, with tree-lined streets, beautiful parks, and striking Art Deco architecture.

You’ll find everything here—from taco stands and neighborhood cafés to some of the city’s most celebrated restaurants. The good news is that there are excellent choices at every price point.

Each neighborhood has its own personality. Roma Sur feels more residential and relaxed, with more families than tourists. Roma Norte is livelier, filled with cafés, boutiques, and nightlife. Condesa is the most polished of the three, known for its parks, outdoor dining, and stylish atmosphere.

Roma Sur
Let’s begin at the heart of the neighborhood food scene: Mercado Medellín, on the corner of Medellín and Campeche. Named for the street on which it stands, the market is especially known for its Colombian, Cuban, Venezuelan, and Peruvian vendors, making it one of the best places in the city to experience the flavors of Latin America.

Aisle after aisle offers fresh produce, meats, seafood, flowers, spices, cheeses, baked goods, and specialty ingredients. In the back, you’ll even find household goods and hardware.

Several small restaurants are scattered throughout the market, serving fresh, inexpensive Mexican dishes. Grab a seat among the locals and enjoy one of the city’s most authentic dining experiences.

A block or two north on Calle Medellín you’ll find several neighborhood eateries. One local favorite is Pollos Mario, best known for its rotisserie chicken and Colombian specialties. It’s affordable, lively, and consistently popular.

Also on Medellín, between Campeche and Nayarit, is El Compita, a bustling taquería where the steady stream of local diners is usually a good indication you’ve found something worth trying.

After your tacos, stroll a couple of doors down to Dulce Refugio for dessert and coffee.

If you’re craving pizza or Italian food, DoppioZero Pizza Romana, just around the corner on Coahuila, is a dependable choice. Across the street, Aburger serves Angus burgers that satisfy those occasional comfort-food cravings.

The variety, quality, and reasonable prices make this neighborhood an ideal place to combine sightseeing with a leisurely lunch or dinner.

The Bistros of Roma Norte and Condesa
One of the pleasures of these neighborhoods is dining outdoors, surrounded by elegant Art Deco buildings and the leafy parks that give the area so much of its charm.

Start with coffee and a milhojas—a delicate pastry layered with cream and fruit—at Rosetta Bakery on Colima. The bakery is almost always busy, but the pastries are well worth the wait.

Across from Parque México, at the corner of Michoacán and Avenida México, Toscana is the perfect place to linger over breakfast or lunch. The menu ranges from huevos mexicanos to Reuben sandwiches, and the relaxed atmosphere invites you to stay awhile.

Just down the street is Nonna, one of my favorite places to take visitors. The menu features classic Italian dishes, an excellent wine list, and a welcoming atmosphere that makes it easy to settle in for the evening.

Continue toward Insurgentes and you’ll come to La Naval, a combination gourmet grocery, wine shop, and liquor store. It’s an excellent place to stock up if you’re entertaining, with a wonderful selection of cheeses, deli items, wines, beers, and specialty spirits.

Better yet, stay for tapas at the restaurant attached to the store, where you can enjoy Spanish-inspired small plates in either the indoor dining room or on the terrace.

Asian cuisine has become increasingly popular in the area, and two restaurants stand out.

Sesame, next to Rosetta Bakery, has been serving creative Asian-inspired dishes for years. Its inventive cocktails and consistently good food have helped it remain a neighborhood favorite. Don’t miss the lamb samosas or the pad Thai.

A newer addition is Kiin Viet Thai Eatery on Orizaba. The prices are a bit higher than many of the other restaurants mentioned here, but the fresh Vietnamese and Thai flavors make it worth the splurge. Just be prepared—the spice level can rival even the hottest Mexican dishes.

One of the joys of exploring Roma Norte, Roma Sur, and Condesa is discovering that some of the city’s best meals aren’t found in the trendiest dining rooms. They’re tucked into neighborhood markets, family-run cafés, bustling taquerías, and bakeries where locals gather every day. Come hungry, wander a little, and you’ll eat remarkably well—without breaking the bank.