Tag Archives: mexico
Beyond the Surface
By Darlene Olivia McElroy—
As a working artist, I have always created mixed-media paintings and assemblages. About 10 years ago, I decided to combine the two—and shazam! Dimensional collage became an integral part of my work. Dimensional objects bring that sweet magic of the unexpected to a collage or painting, allowing me to take the narrative further.
At first, I was a hunter-gatherer of found objects—vintage millinery flowers, broken jewelry, and other curiosities. Over time, this process evolved into making my own molds and casting objects. My obsession with materials and dreamlike imagery, and the mindset of a mad artist-scientist have all contributed to capturing what I see as the healing spirit of humanity.
Trained and employed as a painter and illustrator, I have also spent years as a teacher, author, lecturer, and exhibition juror. After living in France, I returned to the United States and moved to Santa Fe, New Mexico. I come from a long line of New Mexico artists and musicians, and both my soul and my work have been deeply shaped by the summers I spent on my family’s ranch there. In Santa Fe, the rich tapestry of Hispanic life filled my days and nights with color, texture, and story. My paternal grandfather, an artist on Santa Catalina Island, also played an important role in shaping my path, introducing me early on to art as both a lifestyle and a narrative language.
During this time, I leaned into my natural curiosity and the pure joy of exploring what paint can do. I have written five art technique books for North Light Books (now Penguin Random House), which have been translated into Spanish, French, Chinese, and other languages. These books explore a range of methods, including image transfers, surface techniques, alternative surfaces, and mixed-media clay. They are designed as resources for both working artists and teachers.
I continue to explore new materials, surfaces, and techniques, sharing what I learn online and through my monthly classes at Galeria San Francisco, located in the Fábrica La Aurora in San Miguel de Allende.
San Miguel first drew me into its creative orbit over 40 years ago. Being invited to show my work at Galeria San Francisco—and finding so many longtime Santa Fe friends living here—made the decision easy. I now live here full-time with my supportive husband, a crazy cat, and two slightly neurotic dogs.
My paintings are represented in galleries in the United States and Mexico and are held in corporate, civic, and educational institutions, as well as private collections around the world.
I invite you to visit Galeria San Francisco to see more of my work, or explore online at DarleneOliviaMcElroy.com
From Baguettes to Bolillos: A Story of Cultural Exchange & Evolution
By Kary Vannice—
Walk into almost any panadería in Mexico and you’ll notice it right away. The glass cases are full to bursting with colorful rows of conchas, cuernos, orejas, and empanadas. Trays are constantly being swapped out. It smells like sugar, yeast, and warm bread, and it feels very Mexican. And it is. But there is also something else going on that most people don’t think about.
Bread in Mexico did not always look like this. Before wheat became common, food was centered around corn. Wheat came later during the colonial period, and baking slowly developed from there. But a bigger shift happened in the nineteenth century, around the time of the French intervention in Mexico.
What changed was not so much the ingredients. These largely stayed the same. What changed was how things were made.
French baking brought a different level of precision to the process. Dough was handled differently, fermentation was more controlled, and techniques like layering and shaping became more intentional. These influences were adopted into the Mexican kitchen and affected the texture, consistency, and final result.
This French influence didn’t replace what already existed. It changed the way things were done.
A simple example of this is the bolillo. At first glance, it looks like a basic roll, but if you pay attention to the crust, the inside texture, and even the way it is scored, you can see the connection to the French baguette. Over time, it became a part of everyday life in Mexico. Today, it’s used for tortas, served at meals, and found just about everywhere. Most people wouldn’t think of it as French, but the influence is still there.
What happened next is what makes this interesting.
Mexican bakers didn’t try to copy French pastries exactly. Instead, they used those techniques as a starting point and built something new. This is how pan dulce really started taking shape. The variety that exists today didn’t come from just one tradition. It came from a system that allowed for experimentation.
Different regions created their own versions and varieties. Shapes, toppings, and recipes evolved over time. And this created the modern-day Mexican bakery culture that is both consistent and highly varied at the same time.
Another change that came with French technique is the focus on texture. Texture was always important in Mexican food, but these new methods expanded what was possible. After the incorporation of these techniques, softer interiors, crispy outer layers, and pastries that pull apart in layers became more common. These details may seem small, but they change how the food is experienced.
Today, the panadería is its own kind of space. It is not a French bakery, but it is not completely separate from that influence either. It runs on a structure that came from French technique, but everything about how it looks and feels is Mexican. There is more volume, more movement, and it is part of daily life, not something reserved exclusively for special occasions.
And this system is still changing. New techniques are introduced, ingredients shift, and bakeries and recipes adapt and evolve over time. At the same time, certain staples like the concha remain consistent, which keeps a sense of continuity and groundedness in the uniquely Mexican bread culture.
When people talk about this connection, they often call it influence. But that makes it sound like one culture affected another and that was the end of it. In truth, that’s not what really happened.
Instead, French baking provided a new framework. Mexican bakers used it, changed it, and expanded on it, and eventually made it their own. What exists now is something different. We tend to think of influence as something that moves in one direction. One culture gives, the other receives. But that’s not what happened here.
What started as a set of techniques became something entirely different once it moved through Mexican culture. It wasn’t just adopted; it was reworked into something that now feels completely original.
Most people won’t think about any of this when they walk into a bakery. They’ll just pick what looks good and move on with their day. But what looks simple on the surface is actually the result of a much bigger story that’s still unfolding in everyday life.
Perhaps after reading this, you’ll see more than just bread on your next trip to the bakery. You’ll see history, collaboration, and evolution in that bolillo or concha in your hand.
Bon appétit & buen provecho!
Kary Vannice is a writer and energetic healer who explores the intersections of culture, consciousness, and daily life in Mexico.
Entre Mar y Vida (Between Sea and Life)
By José Palacios y Román—
In Bahías de Huatulco—where the changing light, the sea, and the surrounding mountains shape daily life—art often grows from the landscape itself. A group of local women artists has come together to explore that connection through color, memory, and shared experience.
On April 2, 2026, Copalli Art Gallery will present the exhibition Entre Mar y Vida (Between Sea and Life) by the Huatulco women’s collective La Magia del Color (The Magic of Color), a group of creators who live and work in this region of Oaxaca.
The mission of Copalli Art Gallery is to promote visual art and to open its doors to emerging local artists, making it a natural home for this exhibition.
La Magia del Color was formed out of a desire to create spaces for local art and artistic collaboration. This group exhibition seeks to strengthen the presence of women in the local artistic landscape while creating opportunities for connection between artists and the community. The collective is composed of: Ale Salazar, Alma Drew, Aranza León, Diana Laura Vargas Chávez, Grisel Hernández, Janette Santiago, Judith Martínez Caballero, Maru Ibarra, Aline Sofía Zúñiga Cárdenas, Marilú Gómez Bernal, Mariela Esmenjaud, and Mirna Liliana Muñiz Campos.
Each artist brings sensitivity, talent, and new perspectives to the cultural life of Huatulco. They offer a unique perspective: some were born in Huatulco, while others arrived drawn by the beauty and energy of the region. All share a deep bond with the natural and cultural surroundings that shape their lives.
The works of these artists explore a variety of techniques and visual languages, from painting and mixed media to contemporary works inspired by the sea, tropical vegetation, Mexican traditions, and the daily life of the region. This diversity reflects the spirit of the group’s name, La Magia del Color—a celebration of artistic freedom and the expressive power of color.
Guided by the belief that art connects people, stories, and emotions, this exhibition invites an encounter between artists and the community. Its goal is to build new audiences and contribute to the cultural life of the region.
In a place where the sea and land constantly shape the rhythms of life, Entre Mar y Vida captures that relationship. Through color, texture, and personal perspective, these artists invite viewers to see Huatulco—and the creative energy of its community—through their eyes.
Event Details
Opening: Thursday, April 2, 2026 – 6:00 PM
Copalli Art Gallery
On view through: April 30, 2026
Hours: Open daily from 10:00 AM to 5:00 PM
Admission: Free and open to the public. All are welcome.
Bonjour, Baja! French Grapes Thrive in Valle de Guadalupe
By Melissa Lyon—
If you have yet to visit Mexico’s Valle de Guadalupe, imagine a sun-washed valley framed by rounded granite hills, dotted with olive trees, vineyards, and the occasional architectural winery that looks like it belongs in a design magazine. Located about 20 kilometers northeast of Ensenada in Baja California, the valley enjoys a Mediterranean-style climate: warm sunny days, cool nights, and refreshing Pacific air drifting inland from the coast. These conditions are ideal for wine grapes, which thrive on sunshine but depend on cool evenings to maintain balance and acidity. Winemaking here dates back centuries to Spanish missionaries who planted vines for sacramental wine. Today the valley produces the majority of Mexico’s wine and has become one of the most exciting wine regions in North America; part agricultural valley, part culinary playground, and part weekend escape for thirsty oenophiles.
In the past twenty years, the valley has transformed from a quiet farming area into a thriving wine destination. More than a hundred wineries now adorn the hills, ranging from rustic family vineyards to sleek architectural showpieces with Michelin-worthy restaurants attached. The growth is not only in numbers but also in reputation. Mexican wines from Baja California now appear on restaurant lists around the world and frequently win international awards. Pioneering producers such as Monte Xanic helped launch this quality revolution in the late 1980s, demonstrating that Baja California could produce wines capable of holding their own on the international stage. As Monte Xanic founder Hans Backhoff would explain, the mission was simple: create the best wine possible in Mexico. Judging by the packed tasting rooms and enthusiastic wine tourists who now flock to the valley each year, that mission is well underway.
Any discussion of Guadalupe Valley wine inevitably leads to the grapes themselves, and here the French connection becomes clear. Many of the region’s most successful grape varieties originate in France. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, and Sauvignon Blanc have all found a comfortable home in Baja’s sun-drenched vineyards. These grapes thrive in the valley’s dry climate and mineral-rich soils, producing wines that combine bold fruit flavors with refreshing acidity. Several notable wineries craft blends inspired directly by famous French regions. At Bodegas Magoni, for example, the lineup includes both Bordeaux-inspired and Burgundy-inspired wines.
During a recent conversation with The Eye Magazine, Mónica Magoni, daughter of veteran winemaker Camillo Magoni, reflected on the valley’s deep relationship with French grapes. “We have all those French varieties,” she explained. “We produce a Bordeaux blend and a Burgundy blend as well. We have Chardonnay. The French varieties have adapted greatly in our region.” According to Magoni, the valley’s climate, quite different from French wine regions, plays a major role in that success. “It’s very Mediterranean-like,” she noted, adding that the grapes have gradually developed their own local personality. “The French varieties have adapted greatly to the Valley and have developed their own characteristics.” In other words, the vines may have come from France, but after a few decades under the Baja sun, they’ve become naturalized residents.
French influence in the valley extends beyond the grapes themselves. Many winemakers here have studied in Europe or adopted classic French cellar techniques. Careful fermentation, precise blending, and patient aging are common practices. One of the most recognizable French touches appears in the cellar: oak barrels. Wines aged in French oak gain subtle aromas of vanilla, toast, and spice, while the wood gently softens the wine’s tannins. The result is a style often described as structured and balanced, closer to the elegance of European wines than the bold, fruit-forward style often associated with California. As Camillo Magoni has noted, Baja producers keep an eye on what’s happening in traditional wine regions such as France and Italy while still striving to express the distinctive character of their own terroir. The result is a wine culture that borrows freely from European traditions while embracing Baja’s rugged landscape and sunshine.
Naturally, the best way to appreciate all this Old-World inspiration and Baja creativity is to open a bottle. A great starting point is Bodegas Magoni itself. Among their standout wines is the Sauvignon Blanc “Clone 22” from the Magoni Reserva line. A bright, refreshing white with citrus aromas and crisp acidity, Mónica Magoni describes it as one of her personal favorites. Another recommendation from Magoni is “Manaz,” an intriguing white blend made from 80% Viognier and 20% Fiano. She particularly enjoys it chilled on a hot afternoon, when its floral aromas and soft stone-fruit flavors feel wonderfully refreshing. Both wines typically retail in the range of $400–$550 MXN, depending on the vintage and where you purchase them.
Red wine lovers might explore bottles from Monte Xanic, whose Cabernet Sauvignon delivers notes of blackcurrant, cocoa, and toasted oak. Bottles generally sell for about $750–$850 MXN, while their flagship Gran Ricardo blend, created in 1994, can exceed $2,000 MXN. Meanwhile, historic producer Bodegas Domecq offers the Reserva Magna red blend, built on Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, for roughly $750–$850 MXN.
What makes the Guadalupe Valley so fascinating is the way it bridges continents. French grapes, European techniques, and Mexican creativity come together in a landscape that feels both ancient and brand new. And really, that’s the joy of wine. It travels across oceans, crosses cultures, and evolves with every generation of winemakers.
So the next time you’re selecting a bottle for dinner, consider looking north to the Guadalupe Valley, where the French influence isn’t imitation, it’s inspiration. And the wines are distinctly, delightfully Mexican.
Imported Empires: Stories of the French Intervention in Mexico
By Carole Reedy—
Everyone loves a story, and a novel set in a historical period can be a compelling way to learn about an era. While some nonfiction history books can seem dry and tedious, a well-researched and well-written novel can satisfy our desire for historical facts and figures.
This month I’ve chosen both fiction and nonfiction books that tell stories about the time when the European monarchs Maximilian and Carlota ruled Mexico. It is my hope that these books will deepen your understanding of their short reign (1864-1867).
North of the Mexican border, the American Civil War was raging while Mexican conservative exiles and clergy convinced Napoleon III (Louis Napoleon), after considerable political infighting, to place Maximilian of Austria on the throne of Mexico. Along with his wife, Carlota of Belgium, he would become emperor of a politically unstable nation already struggling with internal conflict. It was not the career path either Maximilian or Carlota anticipated.
While much of their story seems improbable, it truly makes for a tantalizing tale.
Looking back, it is easy to think, “How naïve.” Yet history reminds us that political power plays often lead to poor decisions. This is a story of ambition, political intrigue, and, ultimately, tragedy.
How did all this come about? Simply put: “The intervention was triggered by President Benito Juárez’s suspension of foreign debt payments, leading to a tripartite agreement between France, Spain, and Britain in 1861, though France ultimately pursued the deeper, imperialistic intervention.”
The Mexican Empire, as well as the reign of Maximilian and Carlota, came to an end with the execution of Maximilian by firing squad in 1867. He was only 35. Carlota had been suffering from depression to the point of “going mad,” but she lived to the ripe old age of 86, dying of pneumonia caused by a bout of influenza.
Maximilian’s last words are said to be, “I forgive everyone and ask everyone to forgive me. May my blood which is about to be shed, be for the good of the country. Viva Mexico! Viva la Independencia!”
The Last Prince of the Mexican Empire by C.M. Mayo
Author C. M. Mayo is an important voice in contemporary historical fiction. She has translated some of the finest Spanish-speaking writers of our time. In addition to Last Prince, she has written From Mexico to Miramar or Across the Lake of Oblivion: A Nonfiction Novela about a Fairytale: A Visit to the Emperor of Mexico’s Italian Castle. The intriguing title is enough to justify a reading.
Avid readers as well as visitors to this magic land will surely enjoy Mayo’s Mexico: A Traveler’s Literary Companion, which highlights the best of Mexico’s creative contributors who write about various aspects of Mexican life.
In addition to being a novelist, editor, and translator, Mayo is a poet, educated at the University of Chicago. Library Journal named Last Prince of the Mexican Empire one of the best books of 2009, just one of the many accolades the novel received.
The language of The Last Prince of the Mexican Empire is lyrical, highlighted by the shifting points of view of the cast of characters from an overworked kitchen maid to the Austrian archduke.
Blending the cultural and political aspects of the Empire combine here to make a compelling story. The added element of a young boy who childless Maximilian and Carlota want to adopt adds a human element. You’ll be introduced to many historical figures woven into this compelling narrative.
Maximilian in Mexico: A Woman’s Reminiscences of the French Intervention 1862-1867 by Sarah Yorke Stevenson
Sarah Yorke Stevenson (1847-1921) was an archeologist, Egyptologist, and suffragette who helped found the Penn Museum. In this meticulously researched book, she gives us one of the few published first-hand accounts of the time.
In her own words she says of her book, “By offering these pages to the public, my aim is not to write a historical sketch of the reign of Maximilian of Austria, nor is it to give a description of the political crisis that Mexico went through during that period. My only desire is to provide the reader with a point of view whose value lies in the fact that it is that of an eyewitness who was more than an ordinary spectator of a series of events that became one of the most dramatic episodes of modern times.”
What a find! I came across this while researching. Appears to be a gem that may give us a different interpretation of the era, motives, and personalities of the players.
With Maximilian in Mexico. From the Note-book of a Mexican Officer by Maximilian baron von Alvensleben
This reprint of an 1867 account offers a rare perspective from the viewpoint of a Mexican soldier who witnessed the collapse of the empire. Though less known than other works, it provides an intriguing firsthand glimpse into the turbulent final days of Maximilian’s rule.
This is available for just 150 pesos on Kindle, considerably more in hard cover or paperback editions.
The Crown of Mexico: Maximilian and his Empress Carlota by Joan Haslip
This highly acclaimed novel is rich in detail about the politics of both Europe and Mexico in the 1800s. It also takes us back to Maximilian’s upbringing and is sympathetic in tone to Carlota.
Each novel or history we read provides us with new facts and insightful perspectives into the personalities of Maximilian and Carlota. This is what many of us love about novels. They take us closer to the motives of the people involved. There are psychological and sociological factors that straight history often doesn’t—or can’t–reveal.
Maximilian was naïve and easily spurred on by his ambitious wife. He stayed on to the detriment of them both.
Phantom Crown by Bertita Harding
Yet another highly regarded novel that was written in 1934 and subtitled The Story of Maximilian and Carlota of Mexico. It is exactly that, a tragic and pathetic tale of this historic epoch. Carlota and Maximilian are surrounded by a populace that detested them at worst and pitied them at best. The country is torn apart, with liberal leader Benito Juárez in the north. (Benito Juárez was the constitutional president of Mexico. After the suspension of payments on the foreign debt in 1861 and subsequent French invasion, his government became a “roaming republic,” resisting from the north of the country). Napoleon’s ambition is unbridled. There was not much going in their favor.
One reader summed up succinctly all that we look for in a novel. “Wonderful history lesson, very informative, paints a wonderful picture of the times. It is a great read.”
So many issues, so many countries, personalities, conflicts, and ambitions. ‘Tis the way of the world. Next month we will highlight notable novels published this year. You will most likely find your favorite authors among them.
Gustave Eiffel and the French Influence on Mexican Engineering and Architecture
By Julie Etra
The French engineer Alexandre Gustave Eiffel’s work is often associated with several structures in Mexico. Although his family was of German ancestry, he was born in Dijon, France, in 1832. He lived a long, productive, and creative life (he died in December 1923).
His work in Mexico corresponded with the Porfiriato (1876–1911), the 35-year period in Mexican history when Porfirio Díaz dominated Mexican political life and, in the later years, refused to relinquish power, leading to the Mexican Revolution. On the positive side, Díaz was known for his efforts to modernize Mexico through infrastructure projects, particularly the railroad system, and for encouraging foreign investment and European influence in architecture and engineering.
Eiffel’s Skills
Although Eiffel never set foot in Mexico, several structures in the country have been attributed to his designs or influence during the late nineteenth century. These include a church, a kiosk, and a bridge.
(For reference, the iconic Eiffel Tower was completed in 1889, and the Statue of Liberty, to whose structural design he contributed, was disassembled in France before being shipped to the United States. The statue was completed and dedicated on October 28, 1886.)
Eiffel specialized in iron construction that could be manufactured in France, disassembled, shipped, and easily reassembled on site, a technique he exported to several countries in addition to Mexico. As an engineer who understood wind loads, he was selected to design numerous projects where this was an issue.
The Church of Santa Bárbara
Santa Rosalía, Baja California Sur, on the Sea of Cortez. The town was founded by the French mining company Compagnie du Boleo after copper deposits were discovered in the region in the nineteenth century. In the 1880s, the government of Porfirio Díaz granted the company permission to develop the mine, and the town grew around the mining operation.
The church was designed by Eiffel in 1884 and built in 1887. It was later exhibited at the 1889 Exposition Universelle in Paris. The prefabricated metal structure was later acquired by the Boleo Mining Company. The company determined that a church was essential for the new town.
Disassembled, it was shipped by sea to Baja California Sur and assembled in Santa Rosalía in the 1890s. The galvanized iron church was designed to withstand severe weather and extreme climates. It was built entirely of stamped metal sheets mounted on a steel frame and has a simple, practical architectural design.
It was later modified, and several of its original stained-glass windows were removed. Today it retains much of the original design.
Edificio Municipal Santa Rosalía
(Municipal Building of Santa Rosalía)
Some sources incorrectly attribute the design to Eiffel. This building is a wooden structure influenced by French architectural styles from the late nineteenth century and features two stories with a sheet-metal roof.
El Palacio de Hierro de Orizaba, Veracruz
(Iron Palace, Orizaba, State of Veracruz)
This iron palace served as the seat of the government for the Municipality of Orizaba, a city in the western part of Veracruz and an important cultural center during the Porfiriato.
The building is often attributed to Gustave Eiffel, although some sources suggest it may have been designed by the Belgian engineer Joseph Danly. It was designed in 1891, disassembled, and the 600-ton building kit, along with the pieces and instructions for its assembly, was shipped across the Atlantic to the port of Veracruz. The kit was then transported by rail to Orizaba.
The engineering considered the climate of the region and incorporated drainage system details, including downpipes essential for the rainy season that also function as structural support columns. The site work, including the excavation for the building, was completed prior to its arrival.
Like the church, the design consisted of metal sheets, in this case two sheet plates with space in between to help dissipate heat. Today the building houses several museums, including the brewery museum; the brewery was established in the late 1890s when the railroad delivered the essential ingredients.
It took two years to assemble, from 1892 to 1894.
Cuernavaca Kiosko (Kiosk)
This kiosk is located in the Plaza de Armas, the central square of Cuernavaca. It was brought from Europe, possibly from Glasgow, Scotland, by order of the then-governor Jesús H. Preciado in 1888.
Once the structure arrived in Mexico from Europe, it was transported to Cuernavaca on mule trains. Some references indicate that the kiosk was brought from the city of Glasgow, Scotland, at the time one of the most renowned foundry centers for the manufacture of ships, engines, and trains.
Although definitely of European origin, its designer has been the subject of debate, and it is unlikely that it was designed by Eiffel. The architectural style is Indo-Saracenic (also known as Indo-Gothic, Mughal-Gothic, or Neo-Mughal), a style mostly used by British architects in India in the late nineteenth century. The decorative details on the building reflect this style.
El Puente de Fierro
This is a steel bridge located in the municipality of San Cristóbal Ecatepec, in the Mexico City metropolitan area. It is sometimes attributed to Gustave Eiffel, although the exact origins of the structure remain uncertain.
The impressive iron structure reaches a height of about 15 meters and weighs approximately 90 tons. Originally associated with a railway line between Mexico City and Veracruz, the bridge later fell into disuse as this section of rail was abandoned with the expanding urban center.
The structure was later restored and is now known as the Bridge of Art, functioning as a cultural center and community arts space that hosts workshops, courses, and artistic performances.
A Little Bit of France in Mexico
By Alicia Flores—
Being Mexican is not just one thing. Mexican culture has been shaped by several influences, and one of the most fascinating is France. During the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, especially under Porfirio Díaz, French culture became associated with elegance, progress, and modernity. That influence can still be seen today in architecture, in food, and entire communities.
And if you know where to look, you can experience a little piece of France without ever leaving Mexico.
One of the most refined examples is Quinta Gameros in the northern state of Chuihuahua. This mansion was commissioned in 1907 by Manuel Gameros, a wealthy mining engineer who wanted a residence that reflected status and European sophistication. Designed by Colombian architect Julio Corredor Latorre, the house is one of the best examples of Art Nouveau architecture in Mexico. Its carved wood interiors, stained glass, and ornamental ironwork reflect the influence of French decorative arts that were fashionable at the time.
Construction began during the height of the Porfiriato, but history intervened. The Mexican Revolution forced Gameros to leave the country before he could truly enjoy the home. Over the years, the building has served multiple purposes, including as a federal building and later as part of the University of Chihuahua. Today, it houses a museum, where visitors can admire not only the architecture but also period furniture that helps recreate the atmosphere of early twentieth-century elite life in Mexico.
With the Torre Eiffel de Gómez Palacio, located in Durango, the French connection takes on a more symbolic form. This replica of the Eiffel Tower was installed in the early 2000s as part of a broader effort by local authorities to revitalize the city’s public spaces and create a recognizable landmark. Gómez Palacio has long been an industrial and railway hub, and the decision to build the tower reflects both civic pride and a desire to connect with a global icon of engineering and modernity.
Although it is not connected to Gustave Eiffel himself, the structure captures something powerful: the way the Eiffel Tower has become a universal symbol of innovation, romance, and aspiration. For residents, it represents more than a replica—it is a point of gathering, a visual landmark, and a reminder that global culture can be reinterpreted in local ways.
For a deeper and more immersive experience, the town of San Rafael , along with nearby Jicaltepec, offers a living legacy of French immigration in the state of Veracruz. Jicaltepec was established in 1833 as an agricultural colony by French settlers, who were drawn to the fertile lands nourished by the Nautla River. Many of these immigrants came from regions such as the Alps and eastern France, bringing with them farming techniques, baking traditions, and a strong connection to the land. They established agricultural communities, cultivating crops such as vanilla, citrus, and bananas.
Over time, the settlements of Jicaltepec and San Rafael grew into a unique cultural enclave where French and Mexican traditions blended. Even today, this heritage is visible in the local food. The region is known for its bakeries, as well as artisanal cheeses and dairy products influenced by French techniques, adapted to the tropical climate and local ingredients. Walking through the area, you can feel a quieter, more rural rhythm shaped by agriculture, tradition, and a history that connects Veracruz to Europe in a very tangible way.
These places remind us that Mexico’s identity is multi-faceted. French influence arrived during a time of ambition and transformation, leaving behind not only buildings but also traditions, flavors, and ideas that continue to evolve.
To travel through Mexico with this perspective is to see beyond expectations. It is to notice the details, the curve of an iron railing, the elegance of a façade, the taste of freshly baked bread—and to recognize that even here, far from France, its presence still lingers in quiet and surprising ways.
The French Food Connection
By Marcia Chaiken and Jan Chaiken—
We love the food in Mexico. We arrive every year hungry for moles, dorado and huachinango, ripe papayas and mangos right from the trees, juicy piña, ceviche, and hamburguesa de pescado. But sometimes we have a yen for French cuisine — the kind we enjoy in Paris and throughout gourmand-pampering France. We want French food, not fusion — French-European, French-Mexican, or French-Vietnamese interpretations. When in Mexico City, this yen is more than satisfied by a meal at Au Pied de Cochon.
Au Pied de Cochon is one of several excellent restaurants in the Intercontinental El Presidente Hotel in the Polanco area. When we’re in CDMX for a short stay, we reserve a room at El Presidente not only for its location near Chapultepec Park and the National Auditorium, but also because of its ready access to our favorite French restaurant. The restaurant’s 24-hour schedule meet our ever-changing schedule, so we’ve been there for breakfast at 6am and late after-theater desserts as well as for lunch and dinner. One year, our stay at El Presidente occurred after surgery in a nearby hospital and coincided with Christmas. The Au Pied de Cochon staff was kind enough to set up a table close to the entrance that could accommodate a wheelchair.
Canadians often think that the Polanco restaurant is related to Au Pied de Cochon in Montreal. It is not. Nor is the restaurant of the same name in Geneva related. Only one restaurant is related — Au Pied de Cochon in Paris-to be more specific, the mother restaurant in Les Halles, the former central food market of Paris that existed for more than 800 years ago. The Les Halles restaurant is not as old as the market and was opened in 1947. It catered to blue-collar workers who arrived after their post-World War II shifts and was noted for its hearty onion soup and pork dishes including, of course, pig’s foot. Today the original Paris restaurant, as well as the Mexico City offshoot, is still noted for delicious onion soup but is much more upscale.
It was Grupo Presidente that negotiated with the Paris owners to open the branch in their Polanco hotel twenty-five years ago. Pork dishes are still featured, and the seafood platters are still an astonishing sight; but there are dishes that are suitable for those of us who do not eat pork or mariscos. The succulent coq au vin is indistinguishable from the same dish served in Paris, as is the duck in orange sauce. Fish fillets (red snapper, salmon, and sea bass) are perfectly prepared with delicious sides. The beef offerings are varied and each is excellent. And for those looking for a special treat, the lamb ribs served with peas are a truly French delight. The soups are wonderful, and the starters, including foie gras, are very imaginative. The desserts are extraordinary and by themselves are worth a trip to Mexico City. Our favorites are the traditional profiteroles and chocolate soufflé.
For almost fifteen years the Polanco restaurant has been under the direction of Chef Frédéric Lobjois. A native Parisian who reportedly fell in love with French gastronomy at age seven, Lobjois began his career in restaurants in Paris and luxury hotels across France. He was invited to join culinary teams in Mexico by several renowned chefs in CDMX and after several years of building his reputation in top restaurants in the city, he fortuitously was recruited by Au Pied de Cochon to be the Executive Chef. He is professionally well known in Mexico, especially for special events when he joins forces with other chefs to present extraordinary culinary creations. He wisely keeps his personal life off social media.
People living in or visiting the beach towns on the Oaxacan Coast need not travel all the way to CDMX for French food. For many years, Huatulco was the home to the French restaurant, La Bohème in many incarnations. We and other French food fanatics followed the owner-chef around the area. First located in a residential area between downtown and Chahue, then in a small out-of-the-way space in Santa Cruz and later, after a hiatus, on a main street in Santa Cruz, Francophiles could enjoy authentic French dishes. Alas, a few years ago La Boheme closed – seemingly permanently.
Currently (2026) those seeking French cuisine in Huatulco will find it at Bordeaux, one of the seven restaurants in the Secrets resort. Although she’s only been the Chef de Partie for ten months, Chef Livy Deysi has created a buzz on online dining review sites. Livy is tiny in stature but has a personality that fills a large kitchen and dining space. She was born in the town of Huimanguillo in the state of Tabasco and was raised in nearby La Venta. When asked if she cooked as a child, Livy laughed with an emphatic “no”. She found her love of culinary arts at age 16 in high school and then studied gastronomy for four and a half years at a public school in Tabasco. After studying and practicing a range of cuisines, she developed a passion for French dishes because of the complexity of the preparations.
Her first job after graduation was at Secrets in Akumal, Quintana Roo. She became a sous chef, and after 5 years in Akumal her talent was recognized. So at age 29 she was offered the position of Chef de Partie at Bordeaux in Secrets Huatulco. She is responsible for coordinating and supervising the Bordeaux kitchen staff in preparing the menu that is designed by the Secrets Executive Chef. Unlike some French chefs who are harsh and demanding with their subordinates, she acknowledges that her staff are experienced, and she welcomes their advice and suggestions. Personally, she enjoys cooking lentil ragu and preparing and presenting the Bordeaux offering of filet mignon with mashed potatoes and vegetables sautéed in butter. But for herself her favorite dish is escargot. Livy hasn’t had a chance to travel outside of Mexico, but when she has free time she heads to cooler climes with her beloved dog Maximus.
The Bordeaux kitchen is open to the view of patrons in the formal dining room. Although Secrets does not allow restaurant reservations, whether for overnight guests or visitors who purchase a pass, you can watch Chef Livy at work and enjoy the only purely French food in Huatulco by calling the concierge at Secrets and purchasing a night pass. The cost is about $120 USD per person and provides access to any of the restaurants, bars, shows and other entertainment.
We had hoped to include recommendations for true French restaurants in San Miguel de Allende, even though we have never visited one. There are several listed on restaurant review sites that appear to be more fusion or “French inspired” than actually French. We sent out a message to friends who spend extended time in SMA, resulting in no recommendations. If any of you readers are Francophiles with recommendations for actual French restaurants, please post them on the Eye website.
For those of you who are traveling to or through CDMX, we advise making an advance reservation at Au Pied de Cochon. Bon Appetit!
Drs. Marcia and Jan Chaiken have been married for 62 years and have published many justice system research reports together.
The Sweetest Adventure: Exploring the Best Bakeries in San Miguel
By Michael Solof—
San Miguel de Allende is a haven for food lovers, especially those with a sweet tooth. As you wander the streets, the air is often filled with the aroma of freshly baked bread and pastries. It can make you stop in your tracks and search for the source of those incredible smells.
But have you ever wondered about the origins of these delicious treats? The city’s bakery culture is steeped in history and shaped by a strong French influence.
A Brief History of Bakeries: From France to San Miguel
Modern pastry traditions owe much to French baking from the 19th century. French bakers revolutionized the craft, introducing techniques that produced flaky pastries, crusty breads, and delicate desserts that quickly spread around the world.
As these methods reached Mexico, local bakers adapted them using regional ingredients such as cinnamon, chocolate, and corn. The result was a unique culinary fusion that combined European technique with Mexican flavor.
Over time, bakeries became more than places to buy bread. They evolved into community gathering spots where locals and visitors meet for coffee, conversation, and something sweet. Today, many establishments celebrate both Mexican holidays and European traditions, reflecting the rich cultural blend that defines San Miguel’s food scene.
My Six Favorite Bakeries in San Miguel
It was a tough choice, but these six stand out as personal favorites.
1. La Colmena Panadería (The Blue Door Bakery)
Relox 21
Open 7 days a week, hours vary
Founded in 1901, La Colmena is one of the oldest bakeries in the city. Known for traditional Mexican favorites such as conchas and pan de muerto, it has preserved its charm and authenticity for more than a century.
Warm and welcoming, La Colmena is a favorite meeting place for locals seeking a perfect pairing of coffee and something sweet. Its rustic setting reflects the long culinary heritage of the neighborhood.
2. Panadería La Antigua
Umarán 36
8am–10pm, Closed Wednesdays
At Panadería La Antigua traditional baking methods are the focus. Established in the late 1990s, it specializes in artisan breads made with local ingredients and time-honored recipes.
Its reputation for quality attracts both residents and visitors. In addition to sourdoughs and baguettes, the shop offers regional specialties, and its tortillas are among the most popular items. The space frequently features local artwork and community gatherings.
3. San Sebastián Panadería
Calzada de la Aurora 24
9am–10pm, Closed Sundays
A neighborhood favorite since the early 2000s, San Sebastián offers a wide range of baked goods based on family recipes passed down through generations.
From classic pastries to cakes and cookies, the selection changes with the seasons. The welcoming atmosphere and personal service make it a popular destination for birthdays, celebrations, and everyday indulgence.
4. Panadería El Maple
Salida a Celaya 53
8am–7:30pm, closed Sundays
Since opening in 2010, El Maple has built a reputation for creativity in the kitchen. Traditional Mexican recipes meet contemporary twists in items like chocolate croissants filled with locally sourced ingredients.
The bakery emphasizes sustainability, often purchasing ingredients from nearby farms and hosting workshops that teach baking with seasonal produce. Its modern style attracts a younger crowd eager for inventive flavors.
5. Bakery Sucré
Colegio Militar 3
8am–3pm
Sucré focuses on French-inspired pastries while incorporating local ingredients. Macarons, éclairs, and tarts share the display case with desserts flavored with coconut, mango, and other regional touches.
Known for its elegant presentation, Sucré has become a favorite destination for celebrations and special occasions. The refined interior reflects its French inspiration, creating a lovely setting for enjoying coffee and a pastry.
6. Marulier Luciérnaga
Two locations – Plaza Luciérnaga, Lib. José Manuel Zavala 165, and Ancha de San Antonio 121
8am–10pm
One of the newer additions to the local bakery scene, Marulier focuses on organic, gluten-free, and vegan offerings. Its gluten-free brownies and organic breads have quickly gained a loyal following.
Workshops and classes encourage customers to explore healthier approaches to baking and cooking. Bright interiors and eco-friendly practices make both locations welcoming spaces for the community.
How to Best Enjoy These Bakeries
Together, these establishments form an important part of San Miguel’s culinary landscape. They blend Mexican tradition with European technique while serving as gathering places for the community.
My favorite way to experience them? A bakery crawl.
Exploring several bakeries in one afternoon is a delicious adventure. Each stop offers new flavors, stories, and specialties. Whether you’re savoring a flaky croissant or enjoying a slice of tres leches cake, every bite reflects the rich cultural influences that shape the city’s food scene.
So grab some friends, lace up comfortable shoes, and set out on a sweet exploration of San Miguel. With so many tempting options along the way, you might just wish for a second—or even a third—stomach.
Happy munching!
Michael Solof leads SMA Adventure Hound, a group that takes locals and newcomers to brunches and dinners at different restaurants every week. He also offers classes in the Art of Smartphone Photography. You can contact him via WhatsApp +1-443-310-9214 for more info and to reserve.
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