
Tag Archives: oaxaca
Sensory Sensitivity Meets Cultural Reality in Mexico
By Kary Vannice
For the sensory sensitive traveler, Mexico can be a challenge. If you’re planning to visit, or stay for a while, no doubt you’re already anticipating the delicious spicy food, warm hospitality, and the vibrant colorful culture that Mexico is known for. But there are some very real sensory and cultural differences that some foreigners aren’t prepared for until they come face to face with them. Being unprepared can turn something delightful into something disorienting or even disturbing, depending on your level of preparation and understanding. The key to truly enjoying Mexican culture isn’t to try to change it to suit your comfort zone—but to shift your expectations and adapt to your surroundings.
Even if you don’t identify as particularly sensory sensitive, Mexico may still throw you a few cultural curveballs, so knowing how to deal with them gracefully and respectfully in advance can mean you get to have a good time and you don’t have to ask Mexico not to be Mexico.
It won’t take long before you realize that most of Mexico is loud (at least by foreign standards). Whether it’s music blasting from a nearby store or café, fireworks before sunrise for a saint’s day celebration, or street vendors shouting their daily offerings through a loudspeaker—Mexico is a full-on auditory experience.
Celebration is a part of everyday life in Mexico. Music, fireworks, parades, and community gatherings often involve sound levels that would be considered noise violations in other countries. Most Mexicans aren’t conditioned to need silence to relax, so there are no “quiet hours.” These sounds aren’t disturbances—they’re expressions of joy. It’s Mexicans living their best life, and when foreigners insist on lowering the volume or making complaints, they are asking the locals to lessen their enjoyment of life.
But there are ways to cope. First, pay attention to daily rhythms—afternoon siesta often brings a lull and can be a great time to rest. If you see a party, join in instead of resisting. Mexicans are some of the most welcoming people on the planet and live by the ethos: the more the merrier. If you’re sensitive to sound, invest in quality earplugs or noise-canceling headphones. And most important, accept that the noise isn’t a cultural flaw—it’s a feature.
Another sensory difference that might catch you off guard is personal space—or the lack of it. In many Mexican communities, people naturally stand closer together, touch more often, and greet others with a hug or kiss on the cheek, even if you’ve only just met. For someone from another culture, this can feel like an invasion of space.
The local culture places high value on connection and warmth. Touch is seen as a sign of respect and caring, not a threat to autonomy or an invasion of space. Physical closeness indicates trust. But, if you don’t feel comfortable touching or even standing close to people you don’t know, Mexico can be a challenge.
It’s important to keep in mind that their perception of personal space is different from yours, so they genuinely won’t understand your discomfort. Relax your body when your personal space is invaded and set gentle boundaries after you build rapport but do it with humor and kindness. Mexicans love to joke around and are quick to laugh if you keep things light. It can also help to simply observe the locals as they move in and around each other. You’ll soon see that they are as warm with strangers as they are with family. You’ll likely learn to appreciate the beauty and tenderness of these simple gestures.
Time might not have a sensory quality, but for many of us, punctuality is a deeply ingrained expectation. And in Mexico, this will likely present a greater challenge than either noise or touch. Time here is flexible, fluid … and often late.
You may arrive at a dinner party “on time” and find you’re the only person there for the first hour. A plumber who promised to arrive “a las diez” might show up at noon. In Mexico, time is more suggestion than commandment.
This isn’t about disrespect. It’s simply that Mexican culture prioritizes relationships over rigid scheduling. Things unfold when they unfold. Trying to force your sense of urgency onto that rhythm rarely works, and often backfires. Taking it personally is pointless. Complaining about it won’t change deeply embedded cultural beliefs and ways of being. Complaining about lateness or feeling personally offended will only hurt you, because from a cultural perspective, no offense has occurred.
The best solution? Build in “buffer” time. Don’t schedule back-to-back commitments counting on things to run on time. Use this time to your advantage by always carrying a book, podcast or magazine with you. It’s a chance to loosen your grip on control and start living a little more in the moment, like the locals do.
If on your travels you find yourself wishing things were quieter, more spacious, or more “efficient” … pause. Take a minute to recognize that the discomfort you’re feeling isn’t a sign that something is wrong with Mexico. It’s a sign that your cultural expectations are being stretched.
Take a breath and remind yourself: this is the whole point of travel…growth, expansion, and understanding.
The most meaningful experiences come not from controlling your environment, but from surrendering to it. From witnessing a culture on its own terms, not yours. From expanding your comfort zone, not policing everyone else’s.
Allow the experience with openness, curiosity, humility, and a willingness to be changed.
Because if you let it, Mexico will not only surprise you; it will transform you.
Editor’s Letter
By Jane Bauer
“Mexico is not a country of the past but of the infinite future.” – Octavio Paz
So many people love Mexico these days. Mexico City was just named one of National Geographic’s top eight food destinations for 2025. Travel shows are all over it and every other person you meet is planning a trip—or a move—south. Suddenly it feels like the whole world is cluing in to what many of us have known for a long time.
But when I moved here almost 30 years ago, that wasn’t the general vibe. People thought I was a little nuts. I got a lot of questions: Is it safe? Are you really going to have your baby there? As if babies weren’t born in Mexico every single day.
What I found then—and what I’ve continued to find, over and over again—is a rhythm of life that just made more sense to me. A different pace. A stronger sense of community. A culture where family matters, time isn’t always money, and you can live well without rushing through your days.
While people back home were watching the headlines, I was living something very different. More grounded. More connected. Choosing to live in Mexico and exploring different parts of it has honestly felt like stepping through a portal into another way of being. A way that I’m profoundly grateful to have found.
Now, decades later, I feel like the rest of the world is finally catching up. And I get it. There’s something magnetic about Mexico. It’s not just the beaches (though they’re great). It’s the food, the traditions, the music, the layers of history. It’s how different one region is from another—and how each one offers you something unique if you’re paying attention.
Mexico just elected a female president—before Canada or the U.S., which is kind of wild when you think about it. For a country that so many associate with machismo, this is no small thing. For those who’ve only seen Mexico through the lens of headlines or resorts, this place continues to defy expectations.
In this issue of The Eye, we’re highlighting some of the places in Mexico that might not be on everyone’s radar. Our writers take you beyond the usual vacation spots and into towns and regions that offer something different—something real.
Mexico is not a one-size-fits-all destination. It’s a living, breathing patchwork of languages, landscapes, and local flavors. It invites curiosity. It challenges assumptions. And even after all this time, it still surprises me. I hope this issue inspires you to get out there and explore.
See you in July!
May June 2025
April 2025
Oaxacan Women Who Shaped History
By Alicia Flores
March is Women’s History Month, a time to honor the achievements and contributions of women across the world. Oaxaca, a region rich in culture and tradition, has been home to many extraordinary women who have left lasting impacts in politics, art, activism, and indigenous heritage. Here, we highlight a few remarkable Oaxacan women who have shaped history and continue to inspire future generations.
María Sabina: The Shaman Who Brought Oaxacan Mysticism to the World
María Sabina, a Mazatec healer from the Sierra Mazateca region, became known internationally for her sacred mushroom ceremonies. Born in 1894, she used psilocybin mushrooms in spiritual and healing rituals, a practice rooted in centuries-old indigenous traditions. In the 1950s, outsiders seeking psychedelic experiences sought her out, catapulting her into global recognition. While her work was often misunderstood by the Western world, María Sabina remains a powerful symbol of indigenous wisdom and spiritual healing.
Read more from our previous article:
Lila Downs: The Voice of Oaxacan Heritage
Grammy-winning singer and activist Lila Downs has used her music to celebrate Oaxacan culture and advocate for social justice. Born to a Mixtec mother and Scottish-American father, Downs has blended traditional indigenous sounds with contemporary influences, bringing Oaxacan identity to a global stage. Her music often highlights themes of migration, indigenous rights, and female empowerment, making her a cultural ambassador for Oaxaca and beyond.
Beyond her musical career, Downs is also known for her activism. She has been a vocal advocate for the rights of indigenous and marginalized communities, using her platform to bring awareness to issues such as poverty, racism, and gender inequality. Her lyrics, often infused with historical and political narratives, serve as a bridge between past and present, urging audiences to reflect on social injustices. Through her powerful performances, distinctive style, and dedication to her roots, Downs continues to be a beacon of cultural pride and resistance. She has also collaborated with various artists across genres, ensuring that Oaxacan and Mexican traditions remain relevant in contemporary music.
Eufrosina Cruz: A Trailblazer for Indigenous Women in Politics
Eufrosina Cruz grew up in a Zapotec community where women were traditionally excluded from political participation. In 2007, she made headlines when her election as municipal president was annulled simply because she was a woman. This injustice fueled her determination to fight for gender equality and indigenous women’s rights. She later became the first indigenous woman to preside over the Oaxacan Congress and has been instrumental in pushing for legal reforms that empower women in indigenous communities.
Her advocacy has led to groundbreaking changes, including legal amendments ensuring women’s political participation in indigenous communities where traditional customs had long barred them from leadership roles. Cruz has traveled internationally to speak about gender equality, sharing her journey from a marginalized rural community to becoming a symbol of empowerment. Her work extends beyond politics; she has been involved in educational programs aimed at fostering leadership skills among young indigenous women. By challenging deeply rooted patriarchal structures, Cruz has opened doors for future generations of women to take on roles of influence in both government and society.
Natalia Toledo: Poet and Guardian of the Zapotec Language
Natalia Toledo, a poet and writer, has dedicated her career to preserving the Zapotec language through literature. As the daughter of the legendary Oaxacan artist Francisco Toledo, she inherited a deep appreciation for indigenous culture. Her poetry, written in both Zapotec and Spanish, explores themes of identity, nature, and tradition, ensuring that the beauty of her ancestral language continues to thrive in modern literature. One of her most well-known works, Guie’ yaase’ (Olivo negro, Black Olive), is a bilingual poetry collection that captures the essence of Zapotec traditions and worldview. Readers interested in her work can also explore The Black Flower and Other Zapotec Poems (tr. Clare Sullivan, 2015),, which offers a glimpse into her lyrical and evocative storytelling, bringing the richness of Zapotec language to a broader audience.
The stories of these Oaxacan women demonstrate resilience, creativity, and the power to challenge societal norms. Whether through music, politics, poetry, or spiritual traditions, they have each left an indelible mark on history. As we celebrate Women’s History Month, may their legacies continue to inspire future generations to embrace their heritage and push for positive change.
Social Class in Mexico: From Skin Color to Show Me the Money!
By Deborah Van Hoewyk
When you watch Mexican television, do you look at the ads? Who do you see? Pale people. When you walk outside in Huatulco, or Santa María, or Oaxaca City, who do you see? Brown people, all the glorious shades of brown people.
Skin Color and Social Class in Mexico
It turns out that skin color is – and always has been – one of the major components of social class in Mexico. The most requested type of actor for commercial advertising is “international Latino” – dark hair and eyes are okay, but skin must be light. According to social anthropologist Juris Tipa, a professor/researcher at the Autonomous Metropolitan University-Iztapalapa, the whole notion of “international Latino” is “reinforcing the imagery of a ‘Europeanised Latin Americanity’ at the expense of the average Mexican.”
Official statistical research in Mexico is carried out by INEGI (National Institute of Statistics and Geography). Traditionally, adhering to the general notion that Mexico is a nation based on mestizaje – racial/ethnic mixing – INEGI’s surveys have not included questions on race or skin color. (A question on African ancestry started appearing in 2015; see the Chaikens’ article on slavery on page 8, as well as Julie Etra’s article on page 26.)
Given that the Conquest left Mexico with not only slavery but a caste system based entirely on racial and ethnic classifications, the ideology of mestizaje would seem to be a political fiction. Even though the War of Independence replaced the caste system with a hierarchy based on wealth and education, the preference for that pale-skinned European look persisted (President Porfirio Díaz, whose dictatorial ways led up to the Mexican Revolution, was a noted Europhile). Academic research has now begun to look into the relationship of skin color and “life outcomes,” i.e., social class.
In 2010, Andrés Villareal, then at the Population Research Center at the University of Texas, was the first investigator to look at how skin color affects an individual’s “life chances.” He found that the darker your skin, the less education you had. The darker your skin, the lower your occupational category. The darker your skin, the more likely you were to live in poverty, although this relationship was not perfect – if you had light brown skin, you could make it into a more affluent category. Remember, the richest man in Mexico, Carlos Slim, has light brown skin!
Researchers from the Department of Sociology at Princeton University followed up on Villareal’s research in 2012; their work added the finding that “class origin” – that is, the social status of your family – could moderate the effect of skin color. Interestingly, they found that high-income individuals are perceived to be white, regardless of the color of their skin. Overall, they found that skin color and class origin work together to reproduce social inequality in Mexico – and the class origin component works to set your fate even before you enter the labor market.
In 2018, using an 11-shade “palette” of skin colors, researchers at the Center for Economic Studies at the Colegio de México in Mexico City, found “profound social stratification by skin color.” The lightest-skinned people have a year and a half more schooling and more than double the hourly earnings than those with the darkest skin color. Lighter skin brings more “social mobility,” i.e., light-skinned people can move up the socio-economic ladder, while the darkest people actually dropped in socioeconomic status.
Does Skin Color = Social Class in Mexico?
Does this truly mean the caste system is alive and well? Not completely. Even though skin color can influence your access to advantages such as education, those advantages can moderate the effects of skin color. There’s education (especially whether or not you speak English), along with professional skills and background. In a 2023 study in the Middle Atlantic Review of Latin American Studies, Thomas Stringer, a professor at Tecnológico de Monterrey, argues that the intersection of skin color, English proficiency, and intergenerational wealth determines your social class in Mexico.
The Mexican Association of Marketing Research and Public Opinion Agencies, otherwise known as AMAI, has developed a seven-level system of socioeconomic status (SES); the system is based on four characteristics: (1) education (how much professional or post-graduate study), (2) living situation (vivienda – how many bedrooms and how many cars), (3) Internet connectivity, and (4) technology (how many computers). AMAI places no emphasis on skin color – like all good marketing authorities, their system seems to be based on consumption.
So … Show Me the Money!
It is interesting that Mexico does not have a standard definition of socio-economic status, and that perceptions of who is “middle” class are so fluid (see the article by Kary Vannice on page 6). Underlying all the SES measures noted above? Money. You want a nice house? You have to have the money to buy it or build it. Higher education? You have to pay tuition. Intergenerational wealth? Your family had to get it somewhere.
Money in Mexico, however, is not available to all – the World Inequality Report of 2022 ranks Mexico 12th in the world for the disparity between those at the economic top (1% of the population held almost 50% of the country’s wealth) and bottom (50% of the population held only a bit more than 9% of the wealth).
Under the 2018-24 presidency of Andrés Manuel López Obrador (AMLO), however, income inequality actually decreased. AMLO shepherded successive 20% increases in the minimum wage, which sweetened union contracts as a bonus. He tightened outsourcing laws, retaining more manufacturing in Mexico – a policy that moved more than three million people into formal employment. Overall, the “multidimensional poverty rate” (income plus “social rights” – access to food, medical care, sanitation, etc.) dropped by over 5% in AMLO’s first four years, with 8.9 million people lifted out of poverty.
When millions of people escape poverty, the country benefits enormously. But escaping poverty does not necessarily change your social class, nor does it provide access to the advantages of upward mobility.
5 Things: Pluma Hidalgo
By Frances López
Nestled in the Sierra Madre del Sur mountains, Pluma Hidalgo is a hidden gem known for its world-class coffee, breathtaking views, and tranquil atmosphere. Just a short drive from Huatulco, this mountain town offers visitors a refreshing escape from the coast. Whether you’re a coffee lover, a nature enthusiast, or simply looking for a peaceful retreat, here are five things to experience in Pluma Hidalgo.
1. Stay at Finca Don Gabriel
For an authentic and immersive experience, stay at Finca Don Gabriel, a family-run coffee farm that offers cozy accommodations surrounded by lush coffee plantations. Guests can wake up to the aroma of freshly brewed Pluma coffee, enjoy farm-to-table meals, and learn about the entire coffee-making process. The finca’s rustic charm, peaceful setting, and welcoming hosts make it an ideal spot to unwind and connect with nature.
http://www.fincadongabrielhuatulco.com.
2. Eat at Casa Semilla
Start your day with a hearty breakfast at Casa Semilla, a local favorite known for its freshly roasted coffee and vegan meals. This charming café serves healthy whole delicious food made with local ingredients, it is a community hub that showcases coffee, disability inclusion as well as well-being and nourishment.
3. Walk the suspension bridge
The recently created suspension bridge is more than 104 meters in length. It is located right at the entrance of the town and is a must-see stop for those visiting Pluma Hidalgo. Access costs $100 pesos per person. Cash only.
4. Tour a Coffee Farm
Pluma Hidalgo is synonymous with high-altitude coffee, and visiting a coffee farm is a must. Many local fincas, such as Finca El Pacifico and Finca Don Gabriel, offer guided tours where visitors can walk through coffee fields, learn about traditional and sustainable farming methods, and taste freshly roasted beans. The tours provide insight into the dedication and craftsmanship that go into producing one of Mexico’s finest coffees.
5. Hike to Cascada Arcoiris
For those who love nature, a hike to Cascada Arcoiris is a rewarding adventure. The trail winds through lush forests and coffee plantations before leading to a stunning waterfall where visitors can cool off in the crystal-clear waters. The serene surroundings, fresh mountain air, and sounds of nature make it a peaceful retreat away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life.
Stumbling Steps Towards Huatulco’s Pedestrian Corridor
By Randy Jackson
Two years ago, in an article titled The Saga of Quinta Avenida (5th Avenue), I reported on the decades-long, start-and-stop development of the pedestrian walkway connecting Santa Cruz and La Crucecita. This corridor, signed as Andador Peatonal (Pedestrian Walkway), started as a project under the presidency of Felipe Calderón (2006-12) through the tourism development agency FONATUR (Fondo Nacional de Fomento Turismo). Since that time, some buildings have appeared along the walkway, although none have been completed, as uncertainties have stalled or slowed investments.
Comparison with Other FONATUR Projects
Pedestrian tourist corridors are a standard feature of FONATUR’s other resorts, and exist in Cancun (Playa del Carmen) and Ixtapa. They are all named 5th Avenue after the famous shopping street in New York City. However, starting right out of the development gate, Huatulco’s 5th Avenue faced one challenge the other resorts did not: Huatulco’s walkway climbs a significant hill. Yet in 2020, after FONATUR reconfigured the sizes of the lots, private developers (and likely some are speculators) stepped up to purchase all twenty-four lots available for sale, possibly buying into the notion “If you build it, they will come,” made popular by the 1989 film, Field of Dreams.
Recent Developments and Challenges
That notion may eventually apply to Huatulco’s pedestrian corridor. As of mid-February of this year, there were seven buildings, two of which appear nearly complete. One of these buildings has multiple retail locations with full glass storefronts; the other is a condominium near the sports complex. When sold, the lots had a covenant requiring the owners to complete their development by December 31, 2025, or face financial penalties. Some owners will undoubtedly exceed this period as most lots show no sign of construction.
Parking and Accessibility Issues
The corridor’s development calls for a mix of residential and retail properties, with 30% of the lots intended for hotels. When the corridor is fully developed, it could attract hundreds of daily guests and visitors, raising the question: What about parking? Parking areas have been allocated for each end of the corridor. On the Santa Cruz end, a 7,132 square-meter (almost 77,000 square feet) parking lot will parallel Santa Cruz Boulevard, next to the Pedestrian Corridor entrance. On the La Crucecita end, two separate lots stretching along the road behind the Naval hospital will total 4,927 square meters (over 50,000 square feet). This could allow approximately 150 to 175 parking slots on each end (using an AI model for the calculation). The parking areas are owned and managed by the corridor lot owners’ association, which is also responsible for ensuring security and maintaining the corridor. As of mid-February, no work has been done on the designated lots for parking.
The Present and Future of the Pedestrian Corridor
The pedestrian corridor stretches about 600 meters (about 660 yards) from end to end. It comprises a walking area on both sides of a single-lane service road. On foot, this traffic-free route is about one kilometre shorter than following the roads between Santa Cruz and La Crucecita. Many people now use this shortcut daily. And where pedestrians go, motorcycles can, regardless of the signs prohibiting motor vehicles. Unfortunately, the corridor has already been the scene of one motorcycle fatality.
Financial Viability and Investor Confidence
The surge in development along the corridor that began in 2022 has since stalled, leading to a financial dilemma for investors. For a pedestrian corridor to thrive, sufficient businesses must operate to draw customers. If the number of open businesses falls below this threshold, the financial viability of new stores, restaurants, and accommodations can be precarious until sufficient foot traffic exists. Furthermore, the earliest developments to open may face additional challenges from construction activity needed for subsequent projects, which can reduce pedestrian traffic. This would have been the rationale for having the time limit covenant for the purchasers of the lots. But that didn’t work.
Speculation on Future Developments
One can also speculate on another factor dampening investor ardour: uncertainty. FONATUR is leaving the future development of Huatulco to the State of Oaxaca, while infrastructure improvements are badly needed. Furthermore, two significant tourist assets, the golf course in Tangolunda and the convention center in Chahue, are mired in legal and political muck. How Huatulco’s 5th Avenue will fare in that context is far from certain.
Conclusion
The development of the pedestrian corridor thus languishes. Although many people appreciate the pedestrian route connecting Santa Cruz with La Crucecita, they will have to wait longer for businesses (and hopefully more illumination at night) to line the walkway.
For contact and comment, email: box95jackson@gmail.com
A Brief Overview of Slavery in Mexico
By Marcia Chaiken and Jan Chaiken
Slavery is one of the oldest human institutions. Archeological evidence points to slavery being practiced in Mesopotamia over 5000 years ago. Each year, our family (along with Jews all over the world) gathers to retell the story of our people, the Israelites, gaining freedom from slavery in Egypt in 1513 BCE.
Slavery has been practiced in every corner of the world on every continent except perhaps Antarctica. Mexico was no exception. Long before the Spanish arrived in Mexico, the indigenous tribes enslaved captives taken in ongoing battles. Forced labor was commonplace for producing necessities of human life – food, clothing and shelter. And once Europeans began to colonize the “new world,” indigenous populations here became a source of slaves for building towns and cities and plantations, and for mass cultivation of agricultural products such as sugar cane for world trade. The encomienda system (see Julie Etra’s article on page 26) legitimized this practice. However, the introduction of viral and bacterial diseases to which the natives in “New Spain” had never been exposed and against which they had no natural immunity, resulted in massive numbers of slaves dying or being left without the physical ability to carry out heavy labor.
From Africa to Mexico
Relatively small numbers of slaves from west and central Africa were then brought to the Americas from Europe by the conquistadores in the early 1500s. In addition, free Africans were members of the crews serving the Spaniards and Portuguese who claimed lands in North and South America for their royal sponsors. Soon, however, the transatlantic slave trade became a major commercial operation, capturing Africans and selling them as slaves in the Americas. It began in earnest in the 16th century, peaked in the 18th century, and continued into the 19th century. New Spain was the major territory in which these slaves were first sold. Between the early 1500s and the mid-1600s, approximately 120,000 slaves were shipped from Africa to Mexico to work in the mines, on sheep and cattle ranches, and on plantations – primarily sugar cane plantations. Four areas were particularly populated by slaves: the Veracruz ports and plantations, the mining and ranching areas northwest of Mexico City, the stretch of land south of Puebla to the Pacific Coast, and the Valle de Mexico.
Although the predominant “Gone with the Wind” myth of slavery north of the border portrayed slaves as well-cared for, singing as they picked cotton in the fields, in colonial Mexico the resistance to enslavement was graphically made known by relatively high rates of suicide and infanticide among the slaves. Mothers would prefer that their babies die rather than suffer the life of the slave. The first threat of a major uprising of slaves in Mexico occurred in 1537 in and around Mexico City.
This threat led not only to brutal public murder of the Africans who were identified as leaders, but also resulted in the use of extremely repressive measures to control slaves. Official proclamations issued in the late 1500s penalized slaves who were runaways to hundreds of lashes, castration or death. Throughout the first half of the 1600s, small groups of former slaves, who literally overthrew their shackles and often joined with equally outraged indigenous people, terrorized cities and ranches around the colony.
The Emergence of AfroMexicanos
Over the following decades the number of slaves brought from Africa to Mexico began to decline. Perhaps because of the insatiable desire for slave labor on cotton and other plantations north of the border, sales of African slaves in Mexico were reduced in favor of sales in the southern British colonies. By the mid-1700s the population of Mexicans who had African ancestry – free or slave – had primarily been born in Mexico. Mandated by the Catholic Church, marriage of slaves was encouraged. And given the disproportionate number of men among the enslaved people of African ancestry, marriages commonly involved male slaves marrying indigenous women. Their children were called, in the caste system of Mexico, zambos, and they were either enslaved or at the lowest rank of the social-legal hierarchy. Woman slaves were commonly violated by Spanish colonists without the benefit of marriage and their children, called mulattos, were also typically slaves or essentially the same low rank as zambos. Children of mulatto and Spanish parents were called Moriscos and were somewhat higher rank than zambos or mulattos; children of Moriscos and Spanish parents were designated Tresalvos and were the highest rank among those with African ancestry. Although the caste system was very rigid and patently based on skin color and ancestry, there is documentary evidence that even though they were still legally slaves, mulattos and their children with Spanish parentage often received instruction in reading and basic information about their legal rights. One right was to redeem themselves from slavery for a set price or to be set free when their owner died.
The End of Slavery
The 1800s saw a major development in the institution of Mexican slavery. The revolutionary leader and priest Hidalgo, often called the father of Mexican independence, declared slavery abolished in 1810. Slave trade was legally forbidden in Mexico in 1824 after the successful revolution and the formation of a new government. The institution of slavery itself was declared illegal in 1839; in practice, however, slavery was far from abolished for several decades. Yet, given the existence of communities in Mexico where slavery was prohibited, many slaves in the U.S. and adjacent territories fled to Mexico to live in freedom. Although New Spain set the invidious example of colonial development dependent on enslaving Africans and selling them for profit, once Mexico threw off the shackles of Spain, the government set the example of striking the chains of slavery from their citizens.
In the United States, slavery was officially ended by the Emancipation Proclamation of 1863, but the period that followed also saw a lengthy adjustment. Even today, the residual effects of the slave trade can be easily noted in demographic data about the locations of black residents in Mexico and the US. In the US, the Census Bureau has for decades tabulated and mapped the percentage of black residents in states, counties, and down to census districts. The maps show that communities having substantial black populations (as high as 80%) are still located primarily in Southern states with boundaries along the Atlantic Ocean or the Gulf of Mexico (where the trade ships made port).
Measuring AfroMexicano History
INEGI (Instituto Nacional de Estadística y Geografía), Mexico’s statistical agency, traditionally accepted the reality that the population was a complex mix of racial and ethnic backgrounds, and so did not attempt to collect data on individuals’ self-reported race. In the 2015 survey, however, INEGI asked whether people considered themselves black, that is to say, “afromexicana o afrodescendiente,” for the first time. The results revealed the residual influence of a centuries-old pattern of slave trade – this one in the Pacific. In addition to areas around Veracruz and Mexico City mentioned above, concentrations of AfroMexicanos were found in rural areas near Acapulco and elsewhere in the state of Guerrero, as well as in the state of Oaxaca. Although the number of AfroMexicanos is nowhere very high (averaging 2.4% in the entire country), these Pacific coastal areas revealed some of the highest concentrations: 9.6% of the population of Guerrero (9.5% in 2023) and 4.9% in Oaxaca (3.6% in 2023). Most of Oaxaca’s AfroMexicanos live near Puerto Escondido and Huatulco.
The origin of these populations with African ancestry along the Pacific coast was not the transatlantic slave trade, but the 17h-century slave trade known as the Manila-Acapulco galleon trade route. (The galleons were large, multi-story Spanish sailing ships that had previously served in warfare.) At that time, the Philippines were a territory of Spain, facilitating trade from Europe and Africa through there. Slaves from various sources, including Africa, were sold in Manila, and some of them were further transported to the Pacific coast of Mexico. Their descendants are the AfroMexicanos now living near the Pacific coast.
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