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Huatulco

The Snake on the Mexican Flag

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By Jane Bauer

The Mexican flag is a symbol of pride that’s steeped in history and meaning. Its design is bold and unforgettable: three vertical bands of green, white, and red, with the Mexican coat of arms front and center. While the colors have their own stories, it’s the coat of arms that really draws you in—a golden eagle perched on a prickly pear cactus, clutching a snake in its talons and beak. This powerful image tells a story that’s deeply tied to Mexican identity, blending mythology, history, and nature.

The snake on the flag isn’t there by chance; it’s an essential part of the founding myth of Tenochtitlán, the ancient capital of the Mexica people. According to legend, the god Huitzilopochtli told the Mexica to build their city where they saw an eagle eating a snake while perched on a nopal cactus. This vision supposedly appeared in the middle of a lake, a divine sign for them to settle there. In 1325, they established Tenochtitlán on an island in Lake Texcoco, which eventually became the heart of the Aztec Empire. Today, the site of that legendary city is Mexico City, one of the most vibrant and sprawling cities in the world.

The eagle and snake image is loaded with symbolism. The eagle, a predator of the skies, stands for strength, power, and the heavens. It’s often seen as a symbol of the sun, which was central to Mesoamerican beliefs. The snake, on the other hand, is more complex. In many cultures, snakes symbolize fertility, rebirth, and transformation because they shed their skin. In Mesoamerican traditions, the snake is also tied to the earth and the underworld, representing wisdom and duality. When you put the eagle and snake together, they embody the balance of opposing forces: heaven and earth, life and death, the divine and the human.

So, why is the snake being eaten? Some say it represents good triumphing over evil or chaos being brought under control. Others think it reflects the Mexica’s ability to survive and thrive in a tough, competitive world. Whatever the interpretation, the image speaks to Mexico’s history of struggle and resilience, from the rise of the Mexica to the challenges the country faces today.

The inclusion of this imagery on the flag ties Mexicans not just to their indigenous roots but also to the natural world. The nopal cactus, with its bright green paddles and red fruits, is native to Mexico and a key part of the country’s environment and cuisine. By placing the eagle and snake on the cactus, the story becomes firmly rooted in the land itself, blending a heavenly vision with earthly reality. It’s a reminder of the deep connection between the people and the place they call home.

Over the years, the flag’s design has changed to reflect Mexico’s shifting political and social landscape. But the core image of the eagle, snake, and cactus has stayed the same, showing just how enduring and powerful it is. During the fight for independence in the early 1800s, the flag’s colors took on new meanings: green for independence and hope, white for unity and faith, and red for the blood of those who fought for freedom. Combined with the coat of arms, the flag became a unifying symbol for a diverse nation carving out its identity.

Today, the Mexican flag is more than just a national emblem; it’s a source of pride for Mexicans everywhere. The story of the eagle and snake is a reminder of the importance of resilience, adaptability, and staying connected to our roots. It’s a visual story that captures the complexity and beauty of Mexico—a country shaped by myth, history, and the strength of its people. Flag Day in Mexico is celebrated on February 24th.

Huatulco

Editor’s Letter

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By Jane Bauer

He that has been bitten by a snake is afraid of a rope.
Edward Albee

As we step into the Year of the Snake, it feels like the perfect time to reflect on the power of shedding—letting go of what no longer serves us. Snakes, with their ancient ability to shed their skin, have long been symbols of transformation and renewal. And in this upcoming year, I find myself asking: How can we, like the snake, release what holds us back and make space for growth, healing, and the things that truly align with who we are becoming?

In Mexican culture, the snake carries a deep and powerful meaning. On Mexico’s flag, the eagle grips a serpent in its beak while perched on a cactus. This image isn’t just about the nation’s founding—it’s about balance, transformation, and the struggle that leads to wisdom. The snake here is not just a symbol of danger; it’s also a symbol of the great god Quetzalcoatl, the feathered serpent who represents life, knowledge, and the cycles of nature. It reminds us that sometimes, our greatest victories come from the struggles we face, and that embracing change—however uncomfortable—can lead to deeper wisdom.

Compare this with the serpent in the Garden of Eden. In this story, the snake is often seen as the tempter, the one who introduces sin into the world. But, in reality, temptation is a catalyst for change. It’s a break from the old way, a shift that forces us to reconsider, to evolve. Just as the snake sheds its skin to reveal something new beneath, we too can let go of old beliefs, outdated habits, and things that no longer serve our growth. In this Year of the Snake, I think it’s time to ask ourselves: What are we still holding onto that no longer serves us? And not only personal habits, but about the larger mindset we’re living in. Our culture of overconsumption, greed, and constant striving has disconnected us from what truly matters. We’re so focused on acquiring more—more stuff, more money, more distractions—that we’ve forgotten the peace and wisdom that comes from living more simply, from living in harmony with nature. What if we decided to shed that?

What if we let go of the pursuit of more and started reconnecting with the earth, with each other, and with the deeper parts of ourselves that are calling for attention? The snake’s ability to shed its skin is a powerful reminder that, sometimes, we need to let go of the superficial layers in order to reveal what’s underneath—the authentic, the raw, and the life-giving.

So let’s take a cue from the snake and shed the old patterns and return to nature, to what’s real, and to the deeper, quieter truths that sustain us. By letting go of what no longer serves us, we make space for renewal—both in our lives and in the world around us. Because, in the end, shedding isn’t a loss. It’s the beginning of something new.

See you in February,

Huatulco

Huatulco after FONATUR

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By Randy Jackson

In 2023, a milestone agreement was reached that would alter the development path of the federally planned tourism resort of Huatulco. This agreement transfers the assets, responsibilities, and obligations of the developer, FONATUR (Fondo Nacional de Fomento a Turismo), to the State of Oaxaca and the municipality of Santa María Huatulco.

Huatulco was conceived, built, and financed by the federally run tourism development organization known as FONATUR, responsible for Mexico’s nationally developed resorts known as CIPs – Centros Integralmente Planeado, or fully-planned [tourism] centers, the first of which was Cancún in 1974. Prior to development, the Huatulco area was a pristine collection of bays and isolated fishing villages without road connections. Since 1984, FONATUR has developed, maintained, and operated Huatulco through the administrations of several different presidents. Under the recent presidency of Andrés Manuel López Obrador (AMLO), in a bid to decentralize tourism management in Mexico, the entire resort of Huatulco, along with the Mazatlán Marina, Los Cabos, Ixtapa, and parts of Cancún and Cozumel, were all slated to be transferred from FONATUR to state and local authorities. For Huatulco, this transition has begun.

In this article, I outline what we know about Huatulco’s FONATUR transition, its implications, and some of its current challenges.

The Transfer Agreements

1) Convenio General de Colaboración (General Collaboration Agreement), dated May 30, 2023. The agreement states that FONATUR transfers public services and infrastructure management in Huatulco’s CIP to the state government, including roads, water systems, lighting, and waste management. FONATUR will donate related assets and collaborate with the state of Oaxaca during the transition.

2) An agreement dated December 29, 2023, effective January 1, 2024. This agreement formalizes the transfer of infrastructure and public service management in the Huatulco CIP from FONATUR to the state of Oaxaca and the municipality of Santa María Huatulco. It includes transferring assets like water systems, waste management facilities, roads, green spaces, and financial support of $143.8 million MXN ($7.2 million USD) in 2024 to ensure seamless operations.

3) A modification agreement, dated January 4, 2024, amends the above agreement to designate FIDELO (Fideicomiso para el Desarrollo Logístico del Estado de Oaxaca, or the Trust for the Logistical Development of the State of Oaxaca), a state-run entity, as the primary entity to manage the transferred assets and oversee services like water supply, sanitation, and waste management.

The transfer agreements also state that FONATUR remains the legal title holder of the properties until all legal and administrative approvals are secured. It also states that FIDELO is to provide quarterly and annual reports to FONATUR detailing the operation and maintenance of the transferred infrastructure and services. These reports are to include financial statements, operational metrics, and compliance with established service standards. These reports have not been made public.

Enter FIDELO

FIDELO is a parastatal entity (a public corporation) created by the state of Oaxaca on February 15, 1997. Its main objective is to position the state as a competitive region for developing various productive sectors through the promotion and execution of logistics, social, commercial, and tourism projects. Among the functions of FIDELO are to:

· carry out infrastructure and urbanization works
· obtain credits and grant guarantees for financing
· enter into agreements with public and private entities to promote the state’s economic development

FIDELO has been involved in various projects in Oaxaca, notably revitalizing the Parque Industrial y Maquilador (Industrial and Manufacturing Park) in Magdalena Apasco, Etla (outside Oaxaca City). However, public information on FIDELO’s other projects is limited.

FIDELO has now assumed the public services and infrastructure management previously performed by FONATUR in Huatulco. This includes the water and wastewater systems, parks and boulevard maintenance, solid waste collection, landfill operations, infrastructure maintenance, and all areas of administration required for such services. FIDELO has appointed Lorenzo Lavariega Arista, a former president of the municipio of Santa María Huatulco, as Director of Tourism Center Development. He has an office in Huatulco.

When FIDELO assumed its current Huatulco obligations from FONATUR, it incorporated all the FONATUR staff who provided the transferred services. There followed a staff reduction of about 25%. Lavariega has said he expects the staffing level to increase as the budget allows. Both state and federal 2025 budgets are expected to be approved before the end of December 2024.

Transfer Implications for Huatulco

Transferring the Huatulco CIP from federal to local management has sparked significant concerns for residents and visitors. Oaxaca, the second poorest state in Mexico, may struggle to manage the project’s financial and operational demands. This is particularly alarming given the current inadequacies in critical infrastructure, such as potable water and sewage treatment, which are insufficient to meet existing needs. Urgent upgrades and maintenance are required to ensure sustainability and support future growth.

Additionally, FONATUR had outlined a vision for Huatulco’s future development. However, with its departure, the long-term strategy and prospects for Huatulco’s growth under state and local administration remain unclear beyond the immediate transition of services. While FONATUR has relinquished operational responsibilities, it retains a significant presence as the owner and marketer of undeveloped properties in Huatulco.

FONATUR’s underfunding of Huatulco in recent years has significantly contributed to the current challenges in critical infrastructure, leaving the state of Oaxaca, with at least some federal funding, to prioritize much-needed upgrades. Despite these pressing issues, the transition of operational control from FONATUR to the state of Oaxaca began over a year ago, but the state has not announced a comprehensive plan or future vision for Huatulco.

According to Director Lavariega, Huatulco is of great importance to the state of Oaxaca as a key driver of tourism and economic development. There are no plans for the municipio of Santa María Huatulco to assume the obligations currently held by FIDELO following the transition. Looking ahead, Lavariega anticipates that CIP Huatulco’s needs will be prioritized and addressed depending on the allocation of federal and state resources.

The transition from FONATUR to state and local control marks a pivotal moment in Huatulco’s development, and its future remains uncertain. While FIDELO has taken over essential services and infrastructure management, significant challenges persist, particularly regarding the adequacy of funding for infrastructure to support the area’s growing needs.

With Huatulco positioned as an important driver of tourism and economic growth in Oaxaca, the coming months and years will reveal whether the state can rise to the occasion and deliver a sustainable vision for Huatulco’s future. As residents, businesses, and visitors await some news of the path forward, the story of Huatulco after FONATUR is far from finished—its next chapter has yet to be written.

For comments or contact, email: box95jackson@gmail.com.

Huatulco

Protecting Corn

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By Jane Bauer

Mexican President Claudia Sheinbaum recently announced plans to constitutionally safeguard non-genetically modified (non-GMO) white corn, highlighting its critical role in Mexico’s biodiversity, agriculture, and cultural heritage. The proposed amendment seeks to enshrine protections for native corn varieties, reflecting the nation’s commitment to preserving its agricultural legacy.

Sheinbaum’s announcement comes shortly after a trade dispute panel ruled that Mexico’s restrictions on U.S. genetically modified (GM) corn imports violated the United States-Mexico-Canada Agreement (USMCA). Despite the ruling, Sheinbaum expressed confidence that Mexico’s Congress will legislate a ban on planting GM corn by early 2025. “With the help of Mexico’s Congress, we are going to reverse this resolution because very soon, in February, they are going to legislate, I am sure, that you can’t plant genetically modified corn,” she stated at a recent public event. She emphasized the need to protect Mexico’s biodiversity, declaring, “Without corn, there is no country.” Corn holds a special place in Mexican culture and cuisine, serving as the foundation of traditional foods like tortillas, tamales, and pozole. Revered since pre-Hispanic times, it is deeply intertwined with Mexico’s identity, mythology, and daily life. Mexico is home to 59 native varieties of corn, many of which are cultivated in regions like Oaxaca, a hub for traditional farming practices and biodiversity. This reverence extends to native corn varieties, which are seen as a treasure to be preserved for future generations.

While Mexico imports significant quantities of GM yellow corn from the United States for livestock feed, the proposed constitutional amendment underscores the need to balance trade obligations with safeguarding Mexico’s agricultural heritage and ensuring the survival of its native corn varieties. The potential ban on GM corn planting would not prevent imports of GM varieties but aims to shield native crops from contamination and protect the cultural significance of corn. Critics of GM crops argue that their safety for human health and the environment remains unproven, while proponents highlight their utility in disease resistance and productivity.

The current impasse stems from a February 2023 presidential decree that banned the use of GM corn for tortillas and dough, advocating for alternatives in industrial production for human consumption and animal feed. Sheinbaum’s proposed measures seek to uphold this vision.
Source: Reuters

Huatulco

¡Ojos! Watch Out!!! Avoiding the Venomous Snakes of Oaxaca

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By Deborah Van Hoewyk

One of Huatulco’s major attractions is its natural setting. From the famous “nine-bays-and-thirty-six-beaches,” to waterfalls and wildlife, to mountain trips and horse-back riding, being active outdoors is just at your doorstep. And going farther afield in Oaxaca, you find the lagoons and mangroves of the coast, the frozen white waterfall of Hierve el Agua (literally, “boil the water”), and the hiking trail between the eight villages of the Pueblos Mancomunados (hard to translate, sort of a “community of towns”), to name just a few outdoor adventures.

In all of these environs, you will find snakes. Some are venomous, and some are harmless. Left alone, all of them will leave you alone. But should you not be looking, and step on one, it may well attack you. Here are the venomous ones, what they look like, and where you should be watching out for them.

The Vipers

Rattlesnakes. There are two kinds of vipers in Mexico, and most belong to the genus Crotalinae, the rattlesnakes. In the articles in this issue on snake venom, you will learn that Oaxaca has its share of rattlesnakes. Rattlesnakes are “pit” vipers – they have pits near their eyes that contain heat-sensing organs. The sensors let the snake “see” warm-blooded prey. Most hunt at night, so the heat-sensing is key to being able to strike at their prey in the dark.

There’s the pygmy rattlesnake (Croatalus ravus, with three subspecies) – it’s 18-30 inches long and is found in the mountains. It is the usual mottled brown you associate with rattlesnakes.

There’s the black-tailed rattlesnake (Crotalus molossus oaxacus) – it grows to over 4 feet long, and is found in the desert, mesquite grasslands, and pine-oak forests (in the Sierras between 7,000 and 10,000 feet). It comes in varied colors – brown, yellowish, olive-greeny – but the scales on its tail are black.

The small-headed rattlesnake (Crotalus intermedius) – is small all over, growing to about 24 inches long. It is found in the pine-oak forests on the mountains, and looks like your idea of a rattlesnake.

The famous fer de lance. Another pit viper, even more to be avoided than the rattlesnakes, is the fer de lance (“spearhead,” Bothrops asper). Various species of Bothrops have been called fer de lance, so herpetologists prefer the term terciopelo (velvet) for Bothrops asper (see Julie Etra’s article elsewhere in this issue). The terciopelo looks pretty much like a rattlesnake, although its head is somewhat bigger and flatter, dark on top and light on the bottom. The female terciopelo grows much larger than the male; males can be 4-6 feet long, but females can exceed 8 feet.

You are not likely to see any terciopelos in Huatulco, as they do not like the dry winters. Unlike rattlesnakes, they prefer a moist environment; if you visit the tropical rainforests or cloud forests of the Yucatán or Chiapas, you could indeed find them; young ones like to climb trees.

Given that vipers hunt at night, using their heat sensors, you might want to reconsider any nature adventures scheduled for after dark.

The Elapids

The Elapidae family of snakes are the stuff of nightmares – they have permanently erect fangs (rattlesnakes and terciopelos have hinged fangs) and when ticked off, are exceedingly testy, not to mention exceedingly venomous. Some rise up and spread out the skin of their neck like a hood – think Indiana Jones and cobras.

The Oaxacan coral snake (Micrurus ephippifer and Micrurus ephippifer zapotectus) is found in tropical deciduous forests, as in the Huatulco National Park, or farther up in the pine-oak forests of the mountainsides. These snakes can be quite small, and almost never exceed 3 feet. They like to burrow under leaf litter, logs, forest debris – you won’t see them before you step on them. They are also fond of wetlands, so watch your step on marshy ground.

Sea Snakes

The subfamily Hydrophiinae contains the sea snakes. Note that there are very rarely Hydrophiinae in the Atlantic (a few have been sighted in the Caribbean, but it is thought that humans released them or perhaps they made it through the Panama Canal).

Sea snakes do, however, occur in the Pacific waters of Huatulco, and they are poisonous. They do not attack humans, preferring to strike fish, paralyzing them with their venom so they can chew them up at leisure.

The only one you are likely to see in Huatulco waters is the yellow-bellied sea snake (Hydrophis platurus). This snake is extremely venomous. While its coloring can vary, it is usually black on top and yellow or light brown on the belly, and the colors are clearly separate. Its tail is flattened from top to bottom, has a marked pattern (usually spots), and helps the snake swim. Males are less than 30 inches long, while females can be up to 35 inches long. The water needs to be above 61˚F (16˚C) for long-term survival.

On the other hand, I myself have seen what appeared to be an aquatic coral snake (Micrurus surinamensis) while out watching dolphins. Definitely red, white/yellow, and black. If that’s what it was, it was considerably off course, since its usual habitat is the Pacific waters off northern South America. Of course, it could have been a Oaxacan coral snake wandering off from the wetlands of the Parque Nacional …

Huatulco

Editor’s Letter

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By Jane Bauer

We are created in water—amniotic fluid is about 98% water. Throughout our lives, water will continue to pull us, not just through thirst, but through longing. Most of us harbor a desire to be near the ocean, a lake, or a river. A swim in a body of water is curative.

Water holds deep spiritual significance across religions, symbolizing purity, life, and renewal. Yet, despite its sacredness, we often fail to honor it. In Christianity, water is central to baptism, representing cleansing and rebirth. In Hinduism, sacred rivers like the Ganges purify the soul and aid in achieving moksha (liberation). Islam incorporates water in wudu (ritual washing) before prayers, signifying spiritual and physical cleanliness. In Judaism, water plays a key role in mikveh rituals, symbolizing purification and transformation. Indigenous traditions often view water as a sacred element, honoring its life-giving properties through ceremonies. Across faiths, water connects humanity to the divine, symbolizing rebirth, healing, and spiritual connection.

Water is the lifeblood of our planet, yet we often fail to treat it with the respect it deserves. The world’s water supply faces critical threats from pollution caused by human activities. Industrial waste, such as dyes and chemicals from fast fashion production, contaminates waterways. Agricultural runoff from large-scale farming operations, particularly those supporting beef production, introduces chemicals into water systems. Single-use plastics, like bottles and packaging, clog waterways and create garbage patches spanning over 1.6 million square kilometers—an area more than twice the size of Texas—disrupting marine ecosystems and harming wildlife. In 2023 alone, approximately 70 operational oil spills and 10 significant tanker spills released thousands of tonnes of oil into the environment, compounding the degradation of vital water sources. These issues underscore the urgent need for collective action to protect and preserve this essential resource​.

We are contaminating ourselves with the clothes we buy, the plastic we throw away, and the cars we drive. The pollution we cause through everyday actions harms our own well-being. Water, the essence of our existence, is being poisoned by our neglect.

We are told we are living in the age of self-love, but often this is interpreted as indulging in the material—buying that trinket or satisfying our fleeting desires. “You deserve it” has become the anthem of our time. But does indulging our egos really lead to fulfillment? Does this kind of self-love align with our deepest needs?

As we approach one of the most wasteful seasons of the year, I urge you to pause and reflect. Does indulgence serve as true self-love? Nature owes us nothing. Instead, we are deeply in debt—to the water, the wildlife, and the air we breathe.

We are water—our bodies, our lives, depend on it. When we protect water, we protect ourselves. Real self-love begins with responsibility. Repairing the harm we’ve caused to the Earth, especially its water, is the greatest gift we can offer ourselves and future generations.

As we move into the new year, let’s commit to being better stewards of the water that sustains us. Happy Holidays, and see you in 2025!

Huatulco

The Blues Maestro with a Mission: David Rotundo’s Quest to Empower Young Dreamers

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By Avril Dell and Jennifer Desor

In a world where dreams often get lost in the chaos of everyday life, David Rotundo stands out as a shining exception. This talented musician and passionate advocate for youth empowerment has dedicated his life to inspiring schoolchildren to turn their dreams into reality. Via The Caravan Blues School Tour, David aims to unlock the full potential of young minds, just as he did for himself.

Rotundo is originally from Toronto but has now been living here locally for almost two decades. His journey to becoming a musician and motivational speaker is a testament to the power of following one’s dreams. At 28, he left his job as a plumber to pursue his passion for music, traveling to the birthplaces of the Blues – Chicago, Memphis, St. Louis, Dallas, Austin, and New Orleans – to immerse himself in the genre. Years of practice, songwriting, and recording led to the creation of six original albums and a touring career that has spanned across the globe.

The Caravan Blues School Tour is designed to help children overcome obstacles and achieve their aspirations. Through motivational sessions, David shares his own story of perseverance and passion, igniting students to chase their dreams. By visiting schools and sharing his message, he hopes to empower the next generation to believe in themselves and their abilities.

The Caravan Blues Tour is the vehicle Rotundo created to take the school program on the road. This unique tour combines concerts with school sessions, spreading the message of hope and inspiration to local communities.

Here in Huatulco, The Caravan Blues Tour’s partnership with the Bacaanda Foundation, a non-profit organization dedicated to improving education in rural Mexico, has enabled the program to reach even more young minds.

On a recent sunny day in September, Rotundo visited a school in San Miguel del Puerto. As he stepped off the van, he was greeted by excited moms and kids, eager to meet the blues maestro. With his harmonica in hand, Rotundo captivated the students, sharing his story and inspiring them to chase their dreams.

As the Caravan Blues Tour prepares to launch in January 2025, Rotundo’s message of hope and inspiration is poised to sweep across communities, leaving a lasting impact on the lives of young dreamers everywhere. With his soulful music, infectious energy, and genuine passion for empowering the next generation, David Rotundo is proof that dreams can become reality.

Rotundo’s story serves as a reminder that our dreams have the power to transform not only our own lives but also the lives of those around us. Through The Caravan Blues Tour, David is paying it forward, inspiring a new generation to rock their world.

As David Rotundo takes the stage, his harmonica at the ready, the crowd is transported to a world of soulful blues and unbridled passion. But it’s not just about the music – it’s about the message. His legacy will be one of empowerment, inspiring countless young minds to chase their dreams and never look back.

For more information on The Caravan School Blues Tour, such as including your school on the agenda or participating as a guest speaker, please write info@caravanbluestour.com or visit http://www.caravanbluestour.com.

Huatulco

A Project with Vision

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By Jane Bauer

It was an honor to spend Sunday, October 28th in the communities of Xadani and Zimatan with Melanie Petelle, providing vision tests and distributing over 100 pairs of reading glasses.

The experience was not only rewarding but also eye-opening in more ways than one. Witnessing the gratitude of people receiving their first pair of glasses was a powerful reminder of how something as simple as a pair of reading glasses can significantly impact a person’s quality of life.

I can relate to this experience personally—when I first started needing reading glasses a few years ago, I was surprised by how much they improved my daily life. Today, I carry them with me everywhere.

For so many, clear vision can be a luxury they cannot afford, and the act of giving back, even in small ways, can make a world of difference. According to the World Health Organization, over 2.7 billion people globally suffer from uncorrected poor vision.

For many individuals, basic tasks like reading, driving, or even recognizing loved ones can be a struggle. The good news is that the solution is often simple and inexpensive—just like the vision tests and glasses distributed in Xadani and Zimatan.

By offering such services, we can help reduce the strain caused by poor vision, improving not just the ability to see clearly but also the overall well-being of these communities. This initiative is a beautiful example of how we all have gifts, whether they be professional skills or the ability to contribute our time and resources, that can be shared to help others. It reminds us that small acts of kindness and service can have a profound, lasting impact.

Huatulco

5 things: San Agustín

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By Jane Bauer

Huatulco has over 36 beaches but each offers a different experience. San Agustín is a perfect getaway from your getaway. Its coral reef and clear waters are ideal for snorkeling and kayaking, while the calm beach invites relaxation. Enjoy fresh seafood and the simplicity of this quiet bay, a refreshing escape within Oaxaca’s stunning Pacific coast.

Stay in a Cabana
Aldea Natalia, near San Agustín, offers a retreat surrounded by nature. With beach access perfect for stargazing, it provides a unique setting for relaxation. Guests can enjoy a vegetarian diet with fresh, local ingredients, while the community between guests and staff creates a welcoming atmosphere. The property’s eco-friendly accommodations allow visitors to connect with nature and each other. Ideal for those seeking tranquility, Aldea Natalia fosters a sense of belonging, making it a special place to unwind.
http://www.aldeanatalia.com

Seafood Lunch
San Agustín is a haven for seafood lovers. Beachfront restaurants serve fresh, locally caught seafood prepared with traditional Oaxacan flavors. Enjoy dishes like grilled red snapper, garlic shrimp, or octopus ceviche while taking in the breathtaking views of turquoise waters and golden sands. The casual, laid-back atmosphere makes dining here an authentic experience, where the day’s catch is cooked to perfection, often with a hint of lime and chile. Pair your meal with a cold beer or agua fresca, and savor the essence of coastal living.​

Go under water
Snorkeling in San Agustín is an opportunity to explore underwater ecosystems teeming with marine life. The clear waters are home to various species, including parrotfish, angelfish, and pufferfish. The calm, shallow waters of the area make it an ideal spot for both beginners and experienced snorkelers to enjoy coral reefs and encounter sea life like sea turtles and rays. With its protected coves and pristine environment, San Agustín provides a memorable and peaceful snorkeling experience, whether you’re exploring underwater or relaxing on the shore. Remember to avoid sunscreen or use a brand that won’t damage the coral.

Visit the Green Farm
Visiting the Green Farm in Bajos del Arenal, led by Gil Cardenas, offers a unique experience in sustainable farming. This farm specializes in organic produce, showcasing eco-friendly farming methods. Gil and his team guide visitors through the fields, explaining their practices that avoid chemicals, promote local agriculture and environmental conservation. The farm is an opportunity to learn about growing fresh, healthy crops while connecting with nature. A visit to the Green Farm is a peaceful, educational experience for those interested in sustainability and supporting local farming efforts. Contact: Gil Cardenas, (958) 585 0222

Get there by bike
The bike tour from La Crucecita to San Agustín starts bright and early at 6 a.m., covering 58 km round trip. It’s a medium-to-expert level ride with all equipment provided and a trained, bilingual guide to lead the way. The route offers stunning views of the coast and jungle, making the effort totally worth it. Oscar at Bike Tours Huatulco (958) 124 4158 organizes it all—just show up ready for adventure!​

Huatulco

You – Yes, You! The Impact of Tourism on Mexico’s Water Shortage

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By Deborah Van Hoewyk

We’ve probably all heard about the water crisis in Mexico City (see Julie Etra’s article elsewhere in this issue), but Mexico City’s problems are just the worst example of a country-wide shortage of water.

· Historically, 30 of Mexico’s 32 states have suffered from water scarcity; currently, drought conditions affect all of Mexico except Oaxaca and parts of Veracruz and Puebla. January to May of this year was the driest spring ever recorded.
· Having water is not the same as getting water – in places with plumbing, up to 40% of the water is lost through leaks in poorly maintained piping. Huatulco homeowners often experience water cutoffs (rumor has it that the water is diverted to the fancier hotels).
· Reservoirs have receded, leaving mudflats littered with trash, surrounding brownish ponds where once there were sparkling lakes; some have been closed. Perhaps worst off are the three reservoirs that comprise the Cutzamala system, which supplies Mexico City. Authorities started reducing the water distribution in October 2023; in June, they shut it down for 6 hours to make repairs. Fortunately, the rainy season has restored the Cutzamala system to 67% of capacity, from a low of 28% in June (the system is completely closed when the level drops to 20%).

Tourism and Water

Despite the water crisis, Mexico is a wildly popular tourism destination. In 2022, tourism employed 2.8 million people, over 7% of the Mexican workforce, who served over 38 million visitors. In 2023, Mexico as a tourist destination was 4th in the world, 2nd in North America; over 42 million tourists visited Mexico. In 2022, tourism spending constituted 8.5% of Mexico’s GDP; in 2024, estimates say it will make up 14.2% of GDP – tourism brought in $2.3 billion in June of 2024 alone.

All those tourists, including non-resident snowbirds, presumably come from places that are not experiencing a water crisis. And they bring their water consumption habits with them, along with a pretty accurate perception that drinking tap water is not a good idea in much of Mexico (see the Chaikens’ article elsewhere in this issue). A 2012 article on “Tourism and Water Use” in the journal Tourism Management indicates that each tourist visiting Mexico used 300 liters – just shy of 80 gallons – of water per day; in Randy Jackson’s article elsewhere in this issue, tourism consumed 15% of Huatulco’s water supply.

Current data on just how many tourists are using that water are hard to come by, outdated, and generally only count people who arrive by plane; we do know that nearly 500,000 people arrived at the Huatulco airport in 2018, and that arrivals this year are almost back to pre-pandemic levels. As tourism increases, so does tourist water usage. Rest assured, however, it’s not just that those folks are splish-splashing, taking a bath. Direct consumption of water is far from the only impact tourism has on Mexico’s water supply.

The Price of “Big Tourism”

There are those who argue that Mexico’s government privileges the interests of tourists and the tourist industry over those of local people, especially through large-scale tourism projects that bring more tourists. Referred to in 2023 as “anchor products” by then Secretary of Tourism Miguel Torruco Marqués, they include new and remodeled airports, the highway from Oaxaca to the coast, the largest aquarium in Latin America (in Mazatlán), the Callejón de Liverpool honoring the Beatles (also in Mazatlán), museums, arenas, and a Chinatown in Baja. More tourists, more swimming pools, more 5.3-gallon garrafones de agua.

The biggest “anchor product” of them all is the Tren Maya (Mayan train), pet project of Mexico’s last president, Andrés Manuel López Obrador. Intended to promote – Torruco Marqués said “detonate” – tourism in the Yucatán, the train will transport visitors from Mayan ruin to Mayan ruin throughout the Yucatán Peninsula, with side stops for other attractions. The track runs for 1,554 km (about 966 miles); the seven sections run from Palenque in Chiapas up to Mérida in Yucatán, over to Cancún and down to Chetumal in Quintana Roo, and back over to Escárcega in Campeche. In addition to tourist passengers, the train will carry freight; notably, the primary freight client is Pemex (Petróleos Mexicanos), which will be hauling fuel.

Various efforts to make the Mayan Train sustainable have taken place. The train itself provides low-impact public transportation, reducing traffic emissions. Portions are electrified or hybrid ultra-low-sulfur diesel and electric, there’s an extensive tree-planting program to replace the clear-cutting for the track, there are safe passages for wildlife, and large portions of track have been elevated to avoid disrupting the landscape beneath the tracks.

The Mayan Train and the Great Maya Aquifer

Missing, however, seems to be any concern for the Great Maya Aquifer (Gran Acuifero Maya, or GAM) one of the world’s largest aquifers, extending through the states of Yucatán, Quintana Roo, Tabasco, and Chiapas. It provides drinking water for 5 million people – if you’ve ever gone swimming in a Yucatán cenote, a water-filled sinkhole, you’ve been in the GAM.

The Yucatán peninsula was once a huge underwater coral reef, but has risen out of the sea to form a plain composed of porous coralline and limestone, and the latter is water soluble. When rain, which is slightly acid, falls on the peninsula, it percolates through to the underground cave system, wearing away the limestone. When the limestone is weakened by serving as a water filter, it collapses into the underground system, creating the open-air cenotes.

The GAM is a network of underground caves and rivers. The Great Maya Aquifer Project, part of the National Institute of Archeology and History (INAH), is mapping the aquifer and investigating “cave archeology and paleontology” – basically, what fell, or what the Maya threw, in the water, along with artifacts and wall paintings done before the caves filled up.

The Mayan train speeds over the aquifer, sometimes on crumbling limestone only three feet thick. Track builders drove 15,000 long pilings down through the limestone and into the aquifer to support the train; the impact of construction on the aquifer has yet to be measured. The process coats once pristine caves with a shards of concrete and broken stalactites. According to Guillermo D. Christy, a civil engineer with the group Cenotes Urbanos, a voluntary collective focused on preserving the cenotes of the Yucatan, “Pouring concrete into a cavern, directly into the aquifer, without any concern or care – That’s total ecocide.”

Tourism’s Indirect Effects

Less direct are the impacts of increased tourism brought by the Mayan Train. As the Yucatán population has increased (Playa del Carmen had 46,000 people in 2000, and 304,000 in 2020 – a 661% increase), the cenotes have been filling with the trash and human waste generated by too-rapid urbanization. Nearly 50% of individual wells have registered contamination. The cenotes and the wells connect to the aquifer.

Contaminating the water supply destroys more than clean drinking water. One of Tulum’s more popular tourist attractions is a cenote park called Dos Ojos (“Two Eyes”). Dos Ojos is a community-managed attraction in the nearby ejido of Jacinto Pat (ejidos are community-owned lands). Recent explorations have revealed that Dos Ojos is connected with the aquifer. The path of the train was routed around the two main cenotes, but passes directly over several others.

Some Jacinto Pat residents are not happy. An article in Time magazine (by Soraya Kishwari, January 2023) focused on the Maya Train’s impact on indigenous lifeways. One villager spoke anonymously about not wanting the Mayan Train: “It will destroy the jungle, our home, and contaminate the cenotes, our life source.” Gabriel Mazón, a resident who refused to move to make way for the train, says, “As a people, we have allowed ourselves to be bought … there is no support from indigenous people [for the Maya Train]. If our ancestors could see what is being done in their name, they would die of sadness, knowing how they have been profaned, prostituted, and their culture and traditions used.” Mazón continued, “We are little more than a brand or marketing slogan for the government. The people have already been paid off. There will be no more benefits. All we have left to wait for now is the invasion.”

Changing a culture by changing its environment is a very complicated issue. As culture and local heritage are redefined to meet tourist expectations – as they are made into commodities that are more “salable” to outsiders – culture and heritage change to reflect the value placed on them by those outsiders. You can live without water for three days; living without your history is a long, slow death.