Tag Archives: Travel & Tourism

Editor’s Letter

By Jane Bauer

“What’s the point of being an Australian guy traveling through India if you are going to go to India to meet other Australians?”
Alfonso Cuaron

My first experience with movies in Mexico was when the traveling movie caravan came to Mazunte while I was living there in 1997. They set up a tent in the field by the elementary school and showed a double feature of an old Mexican black and white film and Die Hard. Everyone in the village came out since most people didn’t have electricity, let alone televisions. The chance to watch something was a novelty.

When the first theater in Huatulco opened at Plaza Madero in the early 2000s it felt like we were being vaulted into modern times. I love movies so much that when I was pregnant I would make the two-hour drive from Puerto Angel to Huatulco to rent videos- not DVDs- because the selection was better than what was available in Pochutla.

While many people love to immerse themselves in Mexican culture through tacos and tequila, film is often overlooked because of the language barrier. But I believe film is a wonderful way to begin to understand the nuances and attitudes of a culture.

In this issue our writers explore Mexican cinema and there are enough amazing films mentioned to keep you busy but I can’t resist recommending a few more.

La Caida (Dive) 2022
Beautiful cinematography contrasts the precision of profesional diving with the subtleties of grooming by a seasoned abuser. Inspired by the true story of the sexual and mental abuse allegations on the Mexican diving team. Karla Souza, the Mexican actress who plays the lead, trained for three years to portray the Olympic diver.

Güeros (Gueros) 2014
Filmed in black and white, the cinematography captures the wildness, chaos and freedom of youth in the 90s. I was hooked from the opening scene. Two brothers go searching for folk-rocker Epigmenio Cruz on the streets of Mexico City during the student strikes of 1999.

La gran seducción (The Great Seduction) 2023
This fun movie is about a big city doctor sent to a small fishing village that has suffered economic hardship. The residents think that if the doctor decides to stay it will improve their circumstances and set about to woo him. This is a remake of a Canadian film that was first made in 2003 and then again in 2013.

See you in November,

Jane

Mexican Films Streaming on your TV

By Marcia Chaiken and Jan Chaiken

Those of us who love Mexican cinema but spend months away from Mexico have an excellent source for fulfilling our yen for Mexican film – namely, Netflix. The films available for streaming on Netflix come and go, and differ from country to country, but there are always ample choices. For primarily English speakers the subtitles available on Netflix offer an easier experience than seeing the movie in Mexico.

Some of the best known films that have won worldwide acclaim are 100% Mexican, including geographical location, direction, casting, Spanish language, and especially creative imagination. An excellent relatively recent example is the 2018 dramatic film Roma, directed by Alfonso Cuarón. Winning many international awards, Roma accurately depicts a well-known neighborhood of Mexico City in the 1970s.

Other Netflix films that we consider Mexican have Mexican directors who are internationally acclaimed but take place only partially in Mexico. One such film is the 2006 psychological thriller Babel, directed by Alejandro Gonzáles Iñarritu. In addition to Spanish, Babel includes seven other spoken languages, plus Japanese sign language. Two top-notch films, Pan’s Labyrinth (2006) and The Shape of Water (2017), can only be considered Mexican by virtue of their director, Guillermo del Toro. Del Toro’s films are literally fantastic, compelling, and so rooted in an imagination shaped by his childhood in Guadalajara that we would call them Mexican even though some might argue with that classification. On the other hand, the film Gravity (2013), although also directed by Alfonso Cuarón, seems more American than Mexican.

But enough about the blockbusters. The films that we have been most enjoying on Netflix are little, low-budget glimpses into solidly Mexican characters in recognizably Mexican locations. We both liked the 2023 film Familia, directed by Rodrigo García. Filmed in the Valle de Guadalupe in Ensenada, the action takes place in a single day in the home and olive grove of the patriarch of a three-generation dispersed family. We learn that the family gets together once a month for comida, but at this gathering everyone’s life is so suddenly changing that difficult decisions must be made. The characters are complex and charming, even when they become irritated with each other. Gradually, by listening to their conversations around the table, you realize the depth and substance of each family member and their relationships. By the end of the film, as most characters leave, you know you’re going to miss them.

Marcia liked Where the Tracks End (El Ultimo Vagon, 2023, directed by Ernesto Contreras), while Jan thought it was a snooze. The film predominantly takes place in an abandoned railroad car, fitted out as a schoolhouse. It is slow-moving but charmingly develops the relationship between a child of an itinerant railroad track layer and a teacher whose whole life is dedicated to educating some of the most impoverished children in Mexico. There are both tragic and comic moments, and the film unabashedly pulls at your heart strings. The ending provides a satisfying twist.

The film Tell Me When (Dime Cuando Tú, 2020, directed by Gerardo Gatica González) is a light, feel-good movie about a young man living in Los Angeles. His grandfather leaves him a list of experiences that the grandson is urged to complete in Mexico City. Most of the film takes place in iconic areas in CDMX and focuses on his determination to complete the list, including the last item (spoiler alert!) falling in love. But don’t expect a Hollywood ending: it’s a Mexican film after all.

There are plenty of Mexican films on Netflix to keep us happily watching for many years, but confining ourselves to Netflix would mean missing other Mexican treasures that are available on other streaming apps. Most notable are two films directed by John Huston. We first saw one of them in a cultural center in San Cristobal de las Casas, Chiapas– The Treasure of the Sierra Madre (1948, starring Humphrey Bogart). The second is The Night of the Iguana (1964, starring Richard Burton and Eva Gardner) which in Tennessee Williams’ version takes place in Acapulco but was actually filmed in Mismaloya near Puerto Vallarta (less well known at the time). But also definitely not to be missed is an early Cuarón international blockbuster Y Tu Mamá Tambien (2001). Y Tu is superficially about a road trip from Mexico City to coastal Oaxaca but also is a turn-of-this-century exploration of the concept that gender is not binary.

If you enjoy films as we do and enjoy a bit of Mexico when you’re away, just stream one of the movies we mentioned. Happy watching.

 

Chapulín Tournament

By Jane Bauer

For the second year in a row, Jose Luis Bohorquez and his family hosted a Chapulín Tournament. The festivities started at 7 am on September, 22 at his ranch just south of Copalita where he has fields planted to attract chapulínes. It was a busy event. Participants had three hours to collect as many jumping creatures as they could. Many families wandered through the fields with bags for collecting the bugs.

Under a magnificent tree, there was food on the grill and sopes on the comal. Horse rides were available and live music played. In the evening the festivities moved to the cancha in Copalita with a calenda and more delicious offerings from local cooks.

Still not sure what I’m talking about? Chapulínes, or grasshoppers, are a popular snack in many regions of Mexico, especially Oaxaca. These edible insects have been enjoyed for centuries, valued for their rich source of protein, vitamins, and minerals. Typically, they are toasted with lime juice, garlic, and salt, and often seasoned with chile powder for a flavorful kick. Chapulínes are commonly eaten as a street food or as a crunchy topping for tacos, salsas, and guacamole. Their earthy, slightly tangy taste makes them a beloved delicacy, connecting Mexico’s culinary traditions with sustainability and the use of native ingredients in modern dishes.

The practice of harvesting chapulínes dates back to pre-Hispanic times in Mexico, where indigenous groups like the Zapotec and Mixtec considered these insects an essential part of their diet. Chapulínes were abundant in the fields during the rainy season, making them a reliable, sustainable protein source. Traditionally, they were collected by hand, often early in the morning when the grasshoppers were less active. After harvesting, they were toasted on clay comals and seasoned with local spices. This ancient tradition continues today, passed down through generations, reflecting the deep connection between the region’s agricultural practices and its culinary heritage.

As more and more people shop corporate it is encouraging that the Bohorquez family is highlighting the beauty of this tradition. Another great reason to be here in September!

 

From Fields to Films: How Popcorn Became a Global Movie Theater Staple

By Kary Vannice

What is more synonymous with cinema than popcorn? For most, the mere smell of popcorn conjures up images of dimming lights, hushed theaters, and the blissful escape of uninterrupted entertainment. But how did popcorn become so ubiquitous in movie theaters around the world?

Corn itself was discovered as a wild grass in southern Mexico around 10,000 years ago. Once domesticated, it quickly became the core of the Mexican diet for foods like tortillas, tamales, and the corn-based drink atole, but the origins of popcorn are still up for debate.

Popcorn – from Its Origins to the Theater

Some historians claim that popcorn originated in Peru, where it is known that the Aztecs used it as offerings to their gods, believing the popping sound represented the spirits of their ancestors being released. It was also used to decorate clothing and headdresses in that region. Others argue that the oldest evidence of popped corn is from modern-day New Mexico (which was part of Mexico at the time), where 5,600-year-old intact ears of popcorn were found.

The journals of early French explorers in the 1600s document being introduced to popcorn by the Iroquois people in the Great Lakes region of the United States and Canada. Colonial families soon adopted popcorn into their diets, eating it for breakfast with milk and sugar—making popcorn not only a modern-day cinema snack but also one of the original breakfast cereals!

By the 1800s, popcorn had become a popular holiday decoration due to its low cost and festive shape. One of the first commercial popcorn ventures was Cracker Jack in the 1870s. By the 1900s, popcorn was being popped in many American homes and was a favorite snack at festivals, fairs, and sporting events. But it wasn’t something you could munch in a movie theater until the Great Depression. During Hollywood’s Golden Age of Cinema, kicked off by the “talkies” in the 1920s, theater owners felt that popcorn was too lowbrow for the refined movie-going experience, and they refused to sell it in cinemas. However, after the financial crash, when fewer people were attending movies, theater operators discovered that selling popcorn helped keep their doors open due to its accessibility and affordability.

Upscaling Popcorn

Popcorn has remained a mainstay in movie theaters since the 1930s. Buckets of buttery popcorn are still available around the world today, but in some regions, this humble kernel has been elevated to culinary heights that reflect local tastes and traditions.

Standard popcorn selections in most theaters now include cheddar cheese, caramel, or sweet kettle corn. In Mexico, you can also get popcorn mixed with other snacks like Cheetos, Doritos, and Takis, adding a spicy, crunchy twist to the classic snack.

In Japan, you’ll find popcorn in flavors like honey, milk tea, curry, and corn potage, reflecting the country’s penchant for sweet and savory blends. Indian theaters offer more exotic options, such as miso soup, Za’atar, Thai red coconut, and anchovy garlic popcorn, infusing global spices into every bite. In the Caribbean, coconut lime popcorn, made with coconut oil, lime zest, and salt, offers a refreshing tropical flavor. Ethiopia’s Berbere popcorn is a spicy, aromatic delight made with a traditional Ethiopian spice blend that includes chili peppers, paprika, and ginger. The Philippines adds a punch with barbeque or wasabi powder, while European theaters take it to another level with gourmet additions like truffles and grated Parmesan.

Whether you’re a popcorn purist—”straight butter, please”—or someone who enjoys elevating your popcorn experience with unique flavors, popcorn and movies have become so intertwined that even in the age of streaming, popping a bowl of popcorn can instantly transform a regular night into a full-fledged “movie night” experience.

Popcorn’s evolution from an ancient snack to a global cinema staple is a testament to its adaptability and universal appeal. From sacred offerings and breakfast bowls to buckets at the movies, popcorn has grown into a timeless part of the movie experience. It’s more than just a snack; it’s a piece of cinema history—a symbol of enjoyment, nostalgia, and shared moments that connect us all, one kernel at a time.

Aztec Nobility – The Descendants of Moctezuma

By Randy Jackson

At the time of the Spanish Conquest of Mexico, the Aztec civilization was highly stratified, with social classes ranging from nobility and merchants to commoners and enslaved people. The conquest devastated the Aztec civilization and social order through disease, warfare, and the imposition of Spanish rule. Yet, like the Aztecs, Spanish society was organized under a monarchy and a noble class. Intermarriages allowed some members of the Aztec nobility to integrate into the Spanish elite in what was then called New Spain. Today, several Mexican families can trace their lineage back to the ruling Aztec nobility at the time of the conquest. One notable lineage is that of the descendants of Moctezuma II, the Aztec ruler at the time of the arrival of the Spanish.

Moctezuma’s Captivity and the Aztec Rebellion

On November 8, 1519, Hernán Cortés entered Tenochtitlán, the capital of the Aztec Empire, with 400 Spanish soldiers and cavalry. The Spaniards were welcomed by the Aztec ruler, Moctezuma, in a display of pageantry, marking the historically momentous meeting of the two civilizations. However, the Spaniards quickly wore out their welcome. Within a week, Cortés had Moctezuma under a form of house arrest. Soon, the Aztec noble class began planning to rid themselves of the Spanish.

By June 1520, a full-blown Aztec uprising against the Spanish had erupted. On June 29, 1520, Moctezuma was killed, possibly by a rock thrown from within an Aztec mob. The next day, the uprising, known as “La Noche Triste” or “The Night of Sorrows,” drove the conquistadors out of the capital, forcing them to retreat to Tlaxcala with significant loss of life and almost all of their precious treasure. Among the surviving Spaniards in Tlaxcala were some of Moctezuma’s children, likely taken against their will.

Moctezuma’s Children

Polygamy was a common practice in Aztec society. Although less common in the lower classes, it was prevalent among the nobility, in part to strengthen alliances between families. For the Aztec leader, political alliances through marriage were essential for maintaining power. Moctezuma II had numerous wives and concubines and fathered many children. Historical sources vary on the exact number of his children, but they often cite around 19. Many of these children died during the tumult of the conquest and its aftermath. However, a few survived to continue the bloodline of Moctezuma. Although historical records for most surviving children are poor or nonexistent, there are better records for two children, one son and one daughter, whose stories provide a glimpse into the partial legacy of the Aztec emperor.

Tecuichpotzin / Doña Isabel Moctezuma

Tecuichpotzin, later known as Isabel Moctezuma, was the daughter of Moctezuma II and his principal wife, Teotlalco of Tlacopan, a city-state of the Aztec Empire. Born in 1509 or 1510, Tecuichpotzin was about ten years old when the Spaniards arrived in 1519. At this young age, she was already married to Atlixcatzin, the ruler of Tlatelolco, another city-state within the Aztec Empire. Atlixcatzin died in 1520. Following his death, she was quickly remarried to her uncle Cuitláhuac, who became emperor after Moctezuma II’s death. Cuitláhuac, however, succumbed to smallpox only 80 days later. She was then married to the next emperor, Cuauhtémoc, whom Cortés had executed when the Conquistadors returned to defeat the Aztecs of Tenochtitlán in 1521.

By 1526, at the age of 17, Tecuichpotzin was converted to Christianity and baptized. Henceforth she was known by her Spanish and Christian name, Isabel. Cortés then had Isabel married for the fourth time to Alonso de Grado, a close colleague. With this marriage came a grant of a large encomienda (land and slaves), the largest encomienda in the Valley of Mexico. Within about a year of this marriage, Alonso de Grado died. Cortés took Isabel into his household, and she became pregnant with Cortés’s daughter. Cortés had the child raised separately, and Isabel was married to another of Cortés’s colleagues, Pedro Gallego de Andrade. Together, Isabel and Pedro had a son in 1530; shortly after, Pedro Gallego died. In 1532, Isabel was married for the sixth (and last) time to Juan Cano de Saavedra. Together, they had five children.

In 1550 or 1551, Isabel died at the age of about 42. The children of Doña Isabel Moctezuma became prominent members of Mexican and Spanish societies, and her lineage continues to have a flourishing presence in both countries today.

Tlacahuepan / Don Pedro Moctezuma

Tlacahuepan, later known as Pedro Moctezuma, was born in 1520 or 1521, at the time of the Spanish conquest of the Aztec capital of Tenochtitlan. He was born to Moctezuma’s wife Miahuaxchotzin, the Empress of Tula’s city-state, the Toltec Empire’s ancient capital. Sometime before the Spanish siege and final conquest of the Aztec capital, Pedro and his mother relocated back to her home city of Tula. Although Pedro was too young to have witnessed the fighting and collapse of his father’s empire, for the majority of his adult life, he was involved in fighting in Spanish courts to prove his entitlement as a son of Moctezuma.

In 1522, the King of Spain appointed Hernán Cortés as governor and captain general of New Spain. Although Cortés was instructed to limit the granting of encomiendas and respect the indigenous people’s land rights, he largely ignored these directives. Cortés argued that granting encomiendas was essential for civilizing the territory and rewarding the loyalty of his followers. Additionally, he used the system to incorporate the Aztec ruling class into the emerging colonial administration. One notable encomienda was granted in Tula to Don Pedro Moctezuma.

In 1528, Hernán Cortés returned to Spain to appeal directly to King Charles I regarding conflicts with various colonial authorities and to defend himself against accusations of abuse of power and inappropriate granting of lands. In the 1530s, Spanish courts revoked Don Pedro’s encomienda, converting it to Royal Crown property. Don Pedro subsequently spent his life embroiled in legal battles in Spanish courts over his noble entitlements as a son of Moctezuma.

Don Pedro Moctezuma traveled to Spain to appeal directly to the King. In 1539, he was granted a coat of arms in recognition of his status as the son of Moctezuma II. Later, he was also granted annual sums from the crown. Don Pedro Moctezuma died in 1570, still struggling with land entitlements. However, the Spanish Crown firmly recognized his noble lineage. His grandson, Pedro Tesifón Moctezuma, was granted the title of “Count of Moctezuma de Tultengo,” which was later upgraded to “Duke of Moctezuma de Tultengo” in 1865, a title that still exists today. Holders of this title have been prominently involved in Spanish society over the centuries. Although historical records vary regarding the number of children of Don Pedro Moctezuma, it is known that two prominent sons carried on the noble lineage in Spain and with descendants also in Mexico.

Despite the collapse of the Aztec Empire and the challenges posed by colonial rule, Moctezuma’s noble lineage managed to endure and integrate into the new societal structure and carry on over the centuries. Through strategic marriages and legal battles, Moctezuma’s descendants preserved their noble status and secured recognition from the Spanish crown. The Spanish noble titles and the prominence of some of the descendants of families in Mexico testify to the legacy of Moctezuma II.

For contact or comment: box95jackson@gmail.com.

Social Class, Politics, Economics, and Religion: A Brief History of Aztec Sex

By Deborah Van Hoewyk

The Aztecs are one group of Mexico’s ancient indigenous peoples; although it is a diverse group, the different peoples are connected through use of some version of Nahuatl language. They called themselves the Mexica, arrived in what is now Mexico City in the 1300s, and were conquered by Hernán Cortés in 1521. In their short two centuries of rule, however, they established an empire that stretched from the Pacific Ocean to the Gulf of Mexico and had over 400 to 500 small states and 5 to 6 million people.

How Do We Know What We Know About the Aztecs?

Until recently, our knowledge of the Aztecs – not to mention the Maya, the Olmecs, the Zapotecs, the Mixtecs (there are more) – was based on “codices,” manuscript histories written by indigenous people at the request of the conquistadors. Friars who had learned the local native language then translated the manuscripts into Spanish, and they were shipped back to the European monarchs as reports on their colonies. The codices are useful resources, but they’re more than a bit iffy about “what came before.”

Recently historians and anthropologists have begun investigating earlier writings by ancient Mexicans. In a recent (2019) book, Fifth Sun: A New History of the Aztecs, Camilla Townsend from Rutgers University, notes that “the Native Americans were more intrigued by the Roman alphabet than the Spaniards ever knew. Unbeknownst to the newcomers, the Aztecs took it home and used it to write detailed histories in their own language.”

Until now, no one paid much attention to these sources, but there has been a major effort to integrate pre- and post-conquest documents to reach a better understanding of ancient Latin American civilizations. Townsend’s book – which makes the point that the Conquest was not “introductory or climactic,” but “pivotal” in the long story of Mexico – gives us a history, in their own words, of a people who lived complex, nuanced lives in a cultural context the Spanish barely attempted to understand.

In searching for a more accurate understanding of the Aztecs – were they bloodthirsty savages? Focused only on warfare? Superstitious and easily duped into surrender? – Townsend, among other historians, introduces new perspectives to understanding “these complex and often mischaracterized people.”

Gender and Sex, Polygamy and Politics

The big picture for Aztec sex is that it occurred primarily in marriage, although the upper classes practiced “polygyny,” the kind of polygamy where a man can have multiple wives; there was no such privilege for women. There was one “true” wife, presumably the first, and the others were sometimes called “weavers.” In Aztec culture, women were the weavers, textiles were very valuable, so having many weavers increased the man’s wealth – Moctezuma had hundreds of wives. Men could also keep concubines – women to whom they were not married.

Aztec historian Caroline Dodds Pennock of the University of Sheffield in the UK looked at “Gender and Aztec Life Cycles,” a chapter in The Oxford Handbook of the Aztecs (2017). She says our notion of Aztec life driven by “brutal warriors, glorious kings, and bloody priests” is a bit off: in reality, “women in Aztec culture were powerful and effective figures, possessing tangible rights and responsibility, and clearly recognized as indispensable to society’s collective success.” That is not to say that gender wasn’t prescribed in Aztec society – the model was “complementarity,” that is, men and women had different roles that complemented each other.

As she looks at pre-Conquest Aztec life via the role of women and gender, Townsend finds upper-class women played a political role in bringing altepetls (city states) into the empire through marriage; they exercised considerable influence during the Conquest on whether any given altepetl would side with or fight against the Spanish.

Both Dodds Pennock and Townsend used documents that focused on upper-class women. In The Flower and the Scorpion: Sexuality and Ritual in Early Nahua Culture (2011), history professor Pete Sigal of Duke University argues that the “sexual lives and imaginations” of the ordinary Aztecs included pleasure, seduction, and components of the rituals of fertility and warfare. Moreover, they resisted Spanish efforts to inculcate repressive Catholic attitudes towards sex for well over a century after the conquest.

The Specifics of Aztec Sexuality

When references to specific sexual practices come up, you might think the Aztecs were just waiting for the Catholic church to arrive and say, “Nope, that’s a no-no, not that!” There was a group of deities who ruled over sexuality, and they were much given to punishing those whose sexual behavior was outside the approved realm. A couple of these gods were associated with disease – think of STDs as a punishment for sex outside marriage.

Pre-marital sex. Punishable by death. Adult men and women not allowed to interact with each other outside of marriage. Both men and women were supposed to be virginal at marriage, but women were also required to pass a virginity test (i.e., presence of the hymen). For upper-class young men, though, this prohibition didn’t really apply – they often had small collections of concubines.

Adultery. Upper-class men, of course, couldn’t commit adultery because they were allowed multiple wives and concubines. Once adultery was claimed, a lower-class man might be beaten or have his head shaved, but a woman was sentenced to death, usually by stoning.

Homosexuality. Mentioned infrequently in contemporary documents, and was punishable by death. The gay man who took the active (penetrating) role was murdered by being impaled while his partner died when his intestines were extracted through his anus – a much harsher penalty, actually, since the “receiving” partner was perceived as being less “macho.” Lesbians were killed with a garrote.

There is a double-gendered god, Xochipilli as a male and Xochiquetzal as a female, who governs flowers, love, art, and fertility; Xochipilli is the patron/protector of homosexuality and male prostitutes. There have always been festivals to Xochipilli/Xochiquetzal, suggesting that the Aztecs might have had a “Don’t ask, don’t tell, don’t get caught or we’ll kill you” policy.

Sodomy (oral or anal sex). Even among heterosexual partners, punishable by hanging.

Masturbation. Forbidden – punished by rubbing hot pepper powder on the genitals.

Prostitution. Prostitution was alive and well in Aztec society. “Respectable” Aztec women wore their hair up; prostitutes let it loose. They were the only women allowed to wear perfume, jewelry, and makeup. Sometimes prostitutes and priestesses were one and the same; they rewarded young men who survived battle with their favors. Another ritualistic role was to pleasure those men who were on their way to being sacrificed.

When the Spaniards Arrived …

The conquistadors brought their sex-as-sin Catholic beliefs with them. Within two years, they had converted two men to the priesthood and within ten years, they had begun converting the upper classes to Christianity. They hoped Christianity at the top would “trickle down” to rest of society.

Christianity, of course, requires that a man have only one wife; the Spanish began to require monogamy, which created social chaos. The additional wives, not to mention the concubines, suddenly had no legal or social status. Basically, the Spanish enslaved them, many on the encomiendas they created to reward their conquering soldiers; the Spaniard who held the encomienda had the right to tribute, produced through labor, of all inhabitants in a particular area. The Spanish replaced women who had been paid to weave with men, destroying the men’s identity as warriors. The alliances that marriages had fostered, the wealth that had accumulated within allied city-states, resolved disputes between altepetls – all suddenly thrown into disarray. Starting with its stance on sex, Catholic law destroyed a culture.

Moreover, at the urging of Queen Isabella of Spain, the conquistadors intermarried with the native peoples (she called them “free vassals of the Spanish Crown”) at a great rate. This “marathon sexual activity” on the part of the Spanish began to destroy indigeneity. By January 1, 1821, when Mexico won its independence from Spain, only half the population of Mexico was indigenous; 20% was mestizo. In the 2015 census conducted by INEGI (National Institute of Statistics and Geography), only 23% of Mexicans said they were indigenous or of indigenous descent.

Editor’s Letter July 2024

“We Spaniards know a sickness of the heart that only gold can cure.”
Hernan Cortés

How a culture narrates its past says a lot about who they are today. When many of us were taught history in schools we were told heroic tales of explorers discovering new lands. We memorized the dates of those momentous events and celebrated them.

However before 1492, 1521, 1534 there were already things happening on this side of the world. In fact, the first people from Europe to arrive in what we now call the Americas were the Vikings. Around 1000 AD, the Viking explorer Leif Erikson, sailed to a place he called “Vinland,” in what is now the Canadian province of Newfoundland.

Prior to these extranjeros touching down, there was a lot of action and living already occurring in the Americas. William M. Denevan writes that, “The discovery of America was followed by possibly the greatest demographic disaster in the history of the world.” Research by some scholars provides population estimates of the pre-contact Americas to be as high as 112 million in 1492, while others estimate the population to have been as low as eight million. In any case, the native population declined to less than six million by 1650.

In this issue we look at the Aztecs. This mighty civilization was sophisticated and some say more advanced in many respects than those who destroyed it.

When I was in school and learning about the people who sailed into the unknown I wondered what could possess them, where did they get the drive? Was the hunger for riches and power so enticing? Where did the motivation come from? I thought as I grew up and understood the ways of the world it would be become clear, but if I am honest, it only bewilders me even more. How great is our need for supremacy over one another? Perhaps it is our value system that needs an overhaul?

If looking at the news is any indication, we never know in the moment whether we are on the ‘right’ side of history. Maybe at the end of the day there is no right side, for even on the side of our ‘enemies’ are those trying to forge new paths of cooperation.

See you next month,

Jane

The Power of Migration and Remittances

By Randy Jackson

During my time in Huatulco this winter season, I met a few migrants passing through on their way northward. My encounters and brief conversations were always pleasant and often left me thinking about them long after our meetings, hoping things would go well for them. Meeting and talking to someone who is a migrant establishes a human connection that immediately belittles ideas of national boundaries and immigration policy. The migrants I spoke to (all happened to be from Venezuela) may have been seeking refuge from conflict and hardships or possibly chasing dreams of opportunity and prosperity. Yet, regardless of their motivations, they will undoubtedly face years of difficulty, often as unwanted outsiders. Most will endure economic challenges yet send some earnings back home to loved ones mired in poverty. It is this collective action of migrants helping their families back home that gives rise to the economic phenomenon of remittances, possibly the world’s most effective poverty reduction program.

Remittances

Remittances are a well-studied economic phenomenon, and no wonder. In 2023, global remittances amounted to $860 Billion (USD). This total was almost entirely transferred in amounts of $200 or less via online transfer services such as Western Union. These digital transactions provide a wealth of information about the sources and destinations of these funds. Remittances support about 800 million people worldwide. Remittances generally go to the poorest people in the world’s poorest areas. World Bank studies have shown that most remittances go to purchasing food and education. Globally, remittances total three times more than combined government expenditures on development aid by rich countries.

Over 70 countries worldwide rely on remittances for at least 4% of their GDP, and Mexico is one of them. In 2023, Mexico received $63 billion (USD) in remittances, amounting to 4.5% of its GDP. By comparison, the Mexican oil and gas sector contributed 1.3% to the GDP. Of the remittances received in Mexico, 96% come from the United States, mainly from California and Texas. Of the $63 billion received in Mexico, $3.2 billion was received in Oaxaca, more than 10% of the state government’s total annual expenditures.

It’s worth noting that remittances sent by migrants don’t always originate from individuals residing in a country illegally. In 2022, National Public Radio (NPR) reported on one indigenous community in the state of Michoacán that survives entirely on remittances. The town of Comachuén, with a Purepecha population of 10,000, previously relied heavily on woodworking and textiles for its economic stability. However, as pine forests declined, this source of income experienced a significant decline over the preceding decade. This caused hundreds of young men from Comachuén to get temporary work visas in the USA, most of them working in upstate New York, often on the same farms year after year. Remittances from these agricultural workers support their families, enabling them to keep their traditional businesses of woodworking and textiles running. Remittances have also paid for the community church and bull ring.

As the example of the young men from Comachuén demonstrates, remittances benefit both the sending and receiving counties, whether from legal or illegal migration. There are millions of jobs in the US for which there are no available US workers. Agriculture is the most obvious example, as is also true in Canada. A great many crops could not be harvested without migrant workers. In September of 2023, there were 9.5 million non-farm job openings in the US, and even with three million illegal migrants entering the US in 2023, the unemployment rate in the country is one of the lowest in the world. Not enough temporary work visas are available in different sectors of the US economy to meet the demand. According to a 2023 report by the CATO Institute, migrant wage gains are between 4 and 10 times the pay level available in Latin America and the Caribbean. It is little wonder illegal immigration is at record highs. Migrants are often used as a xenophobic political football when in fact they are responding to a fundamental tenet of capitalism, the allowance of mobility to meet the demand for labour.

Who Else Benefits?

The amount of money represented by remittances is large enough that it doesn’t go unnoticed. Bankers, for one, drool at the possible commission on remittance transfers. The average commission paid on electronic remittance transfers is 6%. Mexico’s $63 billion would amount to about $3 billion annually. Immigrants, however, don’t use the banking industry very often, preferring other transfer services. When banks offer the transfer service, it includes the grind of their bureaucratic machinery, which speaks to their lack of popularity and even distrust by the immigrant senders.

Technology companies are another group of profiteers who seek to capitalize on what they herald as the “untapped market for financial transactions.” In January of this year, the Brazilian digital bank – Nubank – announced its largest operation outside of Brazil, in Mexico. It plans to partner with Félix Pago, an online remittance service based on WhatsApp, to enable Felix’s 5.5 million Mexican customers to receive money transfers from the United States.

As beneficial as migrants or remittances are to both the sending and receiving countries, it should come as no surprise that bad actors are taking advantage of migrants in the most disturbing ways, and organized crime is using the remittance system to skirt money-laundering laws. Numerous news articles address the issue of Mexican narco-traffickers using the cover of remittances to repatriate funds to Mexico. Reuters reported in an August 2023 article that one individual was convicted in the US of money laundering by sending thousands of small transfers amounting to $25 million USD to fake recipients in Mexico over several years. The article also reports that the average (legitimate) remittance transfer to Mexico was $390 US in 2022. The typical size of remittances makes any large transfer stand out in the controls and monitoring of remittances, yet few stones are left unturned by enterprising criminals.

A Failed Government Effort?

The Mexican government recognizes the efficacy of remittances in aiding the country’s poorest communities. To this end, they have instituted a program titled 3 X 1. This program seeks to match $3 to a community project for each $1 contributed by Mexicans living abroad. This targets not the individual or family remittances, which is the overwhelming majority of the total remittances, but a different subset known as collective remittances. These are remittances sent by migrant associations in the United States, which collect and remit funds to specific communities in Mexico.

However, a 2014 study of this program by the Latin American Research Centre at the University of Calgary concluded that there was little uptake. Of the two communities studied that received collective remittances for specific community projects, no government money was ever received. Migrants were once again on their own.

As witnessed this past winter in Huatulco, the stories of migrants, their aspirations, and their challenges highlight the human element beyond political debates on immigration policies. Even with the need for immigration in wealthy countries coupled with the effective poverty reduction worldwide that remittances provide, it doesn’t mean we won’t screw it all up. For now, I just hope those Venezuelans I spoke to and their little kids curiously looking up at me will all make it safely to their northern destination.