Tag Archives: maize

Huatulco

The Sacred Kernel: A 10,000-Year Dialogue with Oaxacan Maize

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By Nancy Reyes—

Mexico is often misunderstood by those looking in from the outside. For many, the country exists as a postcard: bright colors, mariachis on every corner, sombreros, tequila, and an endless fiesta. This image has become so exaggerated that it often borders on parody, reducing a land of immense depth to a handful of clichés. But as we at The Eye strive to show, the reality is much more layered. To truly understand the soul of Mexico—and specifically the enduring spirit of Oaxaca—one must look past the surface of the sun-drenched beaches and into the steaming clay pots of its kitchens. There, you will find the absolute foundation of daily life: corn.

If we trace the history of the peoples of this region by the domestication of maize 10,000 years ago, we would see a culture that spent millennia as Zapotec, Mixe, or Nahua long before the concept of “Indian” or “Indigenous” was imposed by colonial hierarchies. This is not just a crop; it is a living expression of geography, agriculture, and tradition. To understand why corn is considered sacred, one must look at the ancient stories that still resonate in the collective memory of the land.

The Legend of Corn: Quetzalcoatl’s Ingenuity

Before the arrival of the Spanish, according to an Aztec legend, the people fed only on the roots of plants and the animals they managed to hunt each day. Their greatest desire was to eat corn, but the golden grain grew hidden behind high, steep mountains that were impossible to cross.

The people begged the gods for help. Many of the deities, wanting to show their power, tried to separate the gigantic mountains using brute strength. They pushed and pulled with all their might, but the peaks would not budge. Time passed, and the people grew desperate. They turned to the great god Quetzalcoatl, begging him to find a way to reach the corn so they could make food to sustain their children.

Quetzalcoatl, unlike the other gods, did not want to rely on strength alone. He was a god of intelligence and ingenuity. He watched the mountains and noticed the tiny creatures that moved through the smallest crevices. To the amazement of the people, Quetzalcoatl transformed himself into a small black ant.

Without wasting a moment, he invited a red ant to accompany him on the arduous journey. For days, the two tiny insects climbed the steep, jagged slopes until they reached the snowy summit. Exhausted but determined, they descended the other side, and there they found them: the golden ears of corn the people so longed for.

They approached the most appetizing ear and extracted a single yellow kernel. Together, they began the return journey, holding the sun-colored grain firmly in their tiny mandibles. The return was even more exhausting; the load was incredibly heavy for their small bodies, and their legs buckled with every step. Yet, they refused to lose that precious cargo.

When they finally arrived back, breathless and nearly crawling, the Aztecs welcomed them with a great celebration. Quetzalcoatl gave the grain of corn to the people who rushed to plant it with immense care. In a short time, the first plant sprouted, followed by many others that eventually populated the fields. From then on, the Aztecs were able to feed their children, who grew up healthy and strong. In gratitude, they began to worship Quetzalcoatl, who became their most beloved god for all time.

The Marvel of the Tortilla

This legend mirrors a deeper truth: the survival of the Mexican people has always depended on a symbiotic relationship with nature. For thousands of years, indigenous communities refined maize varieties adapted to the region’s unique climates and soils. But the true brilliance lies in the ancient technological achievement known as nixtamalization.

By soaking the dried corn in an alkaline solution (usually water mixed with lime or wood ash) before grinding it into masa, ancient cultures transformed a simple grain into a far more nutritious and sustaining food. This process makes niacin more bioavailable, increases calcium, and improves the nutritional value of the corn. From this masa comes the tortilla, the foundation of daily life throughout Mexico.

Visitors to Oaxaca are often surprised by the sensory shift of a true handmade tortilla. Unlike the uniform, flattened versions found in supermarkets, fresh masa pressed and cooked on a hot comal produces a tortilla that puffs slightly, releasing a warm, toasted aroma of the earth itself. It is a small, quiet moment that reveals how deeply food and culture are intertwined.

This commitment to the land is also reflected in a philosophy of wasting nothing. Leftover tortillas are not discarded; they are transformed into chilaquiles, a beloved breakfast dish where corn chips (totopos) are coated in salsa and topped with cream and cheese. It is a celebration of creativity and respect for what we already have.

In Mexico, we have a beloved saying: “Panza llena, corazón contento”—a full belly makes for a happy heart. As you navigate the diverse and complex flavors of our region, I hope you discover more than just a meal. May you leave with a deeper appreciation for the land, the people, and the traditions that continue to shape Oaxaca today.

Nancy Reyes is a writer, teacher, and passionate advocate of Mexican culture.

Nancy’s Top Three Places to Eat
To help you navigate this rich landscape, here are my personal recommendations for a meaningful culinary connection in our region:

El Sabor de Oaxaca (La Crucecita, Huatulco) Located just off the main square, this family-run restaurant has been a trusted bridge to authentic flavors since 1994. It is my favorite spot for a traditional meal where the heritage of Oaxaca is served with pride. Whether you are trying their deep, dark mole or handmade tortillas, you are tasting a story of consistency and local love.

Entre Tierras (Huatulco) For those seeking deeper immersion, I recommend this intimate 8-course culinary adventure. Each course is crafted by Chef Jane Bauer using local ingredients shaped by the seasons. Held on Friday nights at the Chiles & Chocolate Cooking School, this dinner is not just a meal; it is a quiet story of land, labor, and migration. http://www.entretierrashuatulco.com

Casa Semilla (Pluma Hidalgo) When the coastal heat builds and you need a change of pace, head an hour up into the mountains to Pluma Hidalgo. Start your day at Casa Semilla, a community hub known for its freshly roasted high-altitude coffee and healthy meals made with local ingredients. Their commitment to disability inclusion and nourishment makes every bite feel like part of a larger, positive movement in the Sierra Madre del Sur.

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Tortillas y Más …

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By Randy Jackson

As a bread lover, it’s of little wonder that wherever or whenever I tried my first tortilla, I loved it at first taste. The Aztec (Nahuatl) word for tortillas is tlaxcalli (pronounced PLUX-cal-a). The Spanish name for this delightful flat bread is tortilla (“little round cake”). Maize tortillas emerged in early Mesoamerica and almost single-handedly enabled the flourishing of successive advanced civilizations in Mexico and Central America. The maize tortilla provided a stable source of calories and nutrients for millions of people across centuries.

Mexico remains the world’s largest consumer of tortillas. The Mexican per-capita tortilla intake, mostly in the form of corn tortillas, is 85 kilos per year (a little more than 187 pounds). In some parts of Mexico, this consumption is as high as 120 kilos per person, per year (just over 264 pounds). Checking in our fridge, 1 pkg of 10 whole wheat tortillas is 340 grams, so doing the math; 120 kilos of tortillas per capita per year = 9.6 tortillas per person per day. Global sales of tortillas in 2012 was estimated at $12 Billion USD, while tortilla chips and other corn snacks accounted for a further $10 Billion USD. Eso es mucho!

As a tortilla consumer – I’m a flour tortilla guy. And, although I’m OK with the reasonably healthy tortilla wraps, there are other, some might say, less healthy tortilla options too. I’m referring to a category of tortilla recipes called “stuffed tortillas.”

I would define stuffed tortillas as a baked or fried dish where some sort of filling is encased in tortillas. Enchiladas, chimichangas, and quesadillas are the most recognizable versions of stuffed tortillas. Of course, there are many more. One recipe I can speak to is something I call Mexican Deep Dish Tortillas. My version of this dish is made using an air fryer, and you can see my YouTube recipe video for it at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vJtCC9OSsiM.

Of course, there is Tortilla Lasagna too, a dish that is right up my alley. Unfortunately, the current (July) heat wave in Western Canada has kept me from using the oven to make and report on this delectable stuffed tortilla dish.

Beyond food, for the real tortilla lovers the Internet has plenty of tortilla-themed items. In wearables I’ve found women’s dresses and skirts that look like tortillas. Something that caught my eye was a tortilla-style baby blanket. This could allow young parents to wrap their newborn up like a burrito. There are tortilla/burrito blankets for adults too – as you might imagine, they are round. I’m putting one on my Christmas list. And what about tortilla car air fresheners to hang from your rearview mirror? Yup, that too is just a click away.

In 2003, the state of Texas, proclaimed tortilla chips and salsa to be the official state snack (who knew – Texas even has an official state cobbler – Peach). NASA has used tortillas for astronaut meals in space since the 1980’s. Unlike bread, tortillas don’t leave crumbs to float about the space station. Scientists at the University of Houston have been working on extending the shelf life of tortillas for long-duration space missions. Tortillas now remain fresh tasting for up to 18 months on the ISS (International Space Station).

In 1977, in southeast New Mexico, in the kitchen of Maria Rubio, the face of Jesus appeared on a tortilla. This event became known as the Tortilla Miracle. The apparition became an international curiosity. Over the years thousands of people came to see the tortilla. The Tortilla Miracle changed the lives of the Rubio family. There were several TV appearances for Maria, including one on the Phil Donahue show. A movie titled “Tortilla Heaven” was made (starring George Lopez) based on this tortilla story. Through it all, Maria Rubio remained a devout Catholic. She believed in the divine origin of the Jesus image on the tortilla. It arrived at a critical time for the Rubio family. They were facing severe poverty and Maria’s husband was an alcoholic.

Unlike the Rubio family, few lives are changed by a tortilla. The virtue of tortillas is that they do represent an important food staple for the peoples of the Americas. And, I believe, eating a stuffed tortilla while wrapped in a tortilla blanket, can only be a good thing.

2020

How GMO Crops Help Mexico

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By Larry Gompf

Many people want to know exactly what GMO, or “genetically modified organism,” crops are, and how they benefit Mexico. GMO, or transgenic, crops have an altered gene in their seed that expresses a certain trait that makes them desirable for production by farmers.

The most common (and of course the most notorious) GMO crops are those grown from seed that carries the trait that protects the crop from the herbicide glyphosate, a key ingredient in the product Roundup (among others). When sprayed, glyphosate kills all plants that are green except the ones carrying this trait. Why is that good? Because it enables farmers to spray a lesser amount of chemicals than they normally would to grow a given crop, and of course a weed-free crop produces a higher yield.

The status of GMO crops in Mexico, however, is somewhat complicated. The organization that regulates the import and release of genetically modified organisms, as well as their consumption, is the Inter-secretarial Commission on the Biosafety of Genetically Modified Organisms in Mexico (CIBIOGEM). This regulatory body issues permits for three levels of production. The first permit allows for experimental trials, the second is for pilot projects of field trials and the third is for commercial production. The first applications for experimental trial permits were made in 1995 for a number of crops; cotton was authorized for commercial production in 2010, with soybeans following two years later in 2012.

Development and production of GMO crops in Mexico is regulated by a Biosafety law, enacted in 2005 and updated in 2009. Permits for production cover 14 states, 10 in the north and 4 in the Yucatan. Mexico is ranked as the 17th country in the world in production of GMO crops.

Since 2013 production of genetically modified maize (corn) has been banned in Mexico because of public pressure arising from a fear that GMO maize might result in cross contamination with local varieties. Subsequently, the permit for commercial production of GMO soybeans was revoked in 2017. That stemmed from pressure from a coalition of Mayan farmers and honey producers who claimed that GMO soybean permits were granted without their approval, that the crop was grown in areas that weren’t authorized and that pollen from transgenic soybeans could contaminate their honey, causing them to lose their ability to export to Europe.

The loss of the ability to grow GMO maize is an interesting one. In 2017, Mexico ranked 6th in the world for maize production but 43rd in yield/hectare; indeed, Mexico’s annual production falls 37.4% below domestic consumption. Under the recently renegotiated NAFTA agreement, Mexico imports corn to meet the shortfall, mainly from the U.S. and mainly as GMO corn.

Mexico’s population thus consumes more than a third of their maiz in the form of GMO corn. However, if Mexican farmers were allowed to grow GMO corn, they could increase yields, the country would import less from the U.S. and both producers and consumers would benefit. Transgenic plants have been used in commercial agriculture since the mid 1990s, after being released for the first time in the United States, China, Argentina, Australia and Canada. There is no evidence of ill effects to consumers from the consumption of GMO crops and cross-pollination of GMO crops with local crops is minimal. Mayan farmers are concerned about GMO crops because if their European customers perceive that there is cross-pollination from GMO crops, they will refuse to buy Mexico’s honey. It’s purely a marketing issue not an issue of safety.

This article uses information from a 2018 article by Ruiz, Knapp and Garcia-Ruiz, “Profile of genetically modified plants authorized in Mexico.” Larry Gompf is a former Professional Agrologist (PAg) and Certified Crop Protection Consultant from Winnipeg, Manitoba.