The Eye San Miguel de Allende – November 2026
SMA November 2026
Tag Archives: Mexico Travel
Editor’s Letter
By Jane Bauer—
You pile up associations the way you pile up bricks. Memory itself is a form of architecture.
-Louise Bourgeois
Who would you be without your memories? Without the ideas you have collected about yourself, about others and the world around you? I have thought a lot about this in the last couple of years as I cared for my mother who was shedding her memories the way a tree loses its leaves when winter is coming. At first there was a panic as to what would happen, what would be left and how would we cope if we got to the point where I was a stranger.
Of course there was a resistance, a desire to hold on to every moment and remembrance, but that resistance itself was a form of disease built by fear and the unknown. Eventually the path we chose was acceptance and the world around us loosened, tension slackened and we made space for new things. My mother never forgot who I was but sometimes she didn’t know that I was her daughter, I was maybe a sister or a friend or even her mother. I, in turn, had to release my resistance to the idea of her as my mother. Whoever she thought I was, I wanted her to associate me with love and safety and I let that dictate my reaction to each situation we faced.
She saw the environment around us with new eyes each day and she took me along for the ride. Without the clutter of the past we would marvel at the new green shoots of leaves on a plant or the rising of the moon. How miraculous to see the rising of the moon as though for the first time!
Our memories can be tools. They can transport us to a moment in time in the past and we can feel the texture of an object we haven’t held for years or conjure up the smell of our childhood bedroom. Our memories can also be weapons. Some people hold on to grudges like they are precious riches. Our memories can also be unreliable. Women who experience childbirth often say in the moment they will never do it again only to do it again once the pain has passed and they are holding a newborn in their arms.
And perhaps memory reaches beyond what we consciously remember. Like the complex networks beneath forests, where trees exchange resources and information through their roots and fungal partners, we too are connected to what came before us. Scientists are exploring whether some effects of our ancestors’ experiences may be carried through epigenetic mechanisms – chemical changes that affect how genes are expressed without changing the DNA sequence itself. In animals, there is compelling evidence that some of these effects can cross generations; in humans, the science is still unfolding. What we inherit may be more complicated than the stories we have been told.
None of us is an island.
This month our writers explore memory in many different forms. Thank you for reading.
See you next month,
Jane
SMA October 2026
Water Near San Miguel: Places to Recharge, Relax, and Cool Off
By Alicia Flores—
While San Miguel de Allende sits high in the semi-arid highlands of central Mexico, water remains an important part of the region’s landscape and culture. Whether you’re looking for relaxation, recreation, or simply a break from the summer heat, there are several ways to connect with water nearby.
La Gruta Spa
Perhaps the region’s best-known thermal water destination, La Gruta offers a series of mineral-rich thermal pools surrounded by gardens and stone pathways. Its signature feature is a tunnel leading into a domed steam grotto where warm mineral water cascades from above. Many visitors describe the experience as both physically restorative and deeply relaxing.
http://www.lagruta-spa.com.mx
Escondido Place
Located adjacent to La Gruta, Escondido Place features expansive thermal pools fed by natural hot springs. Popular with families and locals alike, it offers a more spacious setting for swimming, soaking, and spending a leisurely afternoon.
http://www.escondidoplace.com
The Presa Allende (Allende Dam)
Just outside the city, the Presa Allende provides one of the area’s largest bodies of water. Birdwatchers visit for migratory species, while kayakers, sailors, and fishermen enjoy the reservoir’s calm waters. Several restaurants along the shoreline offer panoramic views, particularly at sunset.
Charco del Ingenio
Although not a swimming destination, this botanical reserve highlights the importance of water in the region’s ecosystem. Seasonal reservoirs, wetlands, and natural springs support an impressive diversity of plants, birds, and wildlife. Walking the trails offers a chance to experience the quieter, contemplative side of water.
Temazcal Experiences
For those interested in traditional forms of renewal, several wellness centers around San Miguel offer temazcal ceremonies. Combining heat, steam, water, and guided ritual, these Indigenous sweat-lodge traditions have been used for centuries throughout Mexico for purification and reflection.
A Simple Prescription: Sit Beside Water
Not every encounter with water requires a swimsuit. Enjoying a quiet meal overlooking the Presa, listening to a fountain in one of San Miguel’s gardens, or watching summer rains arrive across the countryside may provide many of the same calming benefits researchers now associate with “blue spaces.”
As modern science continues to explore water’s effects on mental and physical well-being, San Miguel offers plenty of opportunities to experience what generations before us already understood: sometimes healing begins simply by spending time near water.
Keep Exploring Mexico
Get your free Passport to Mexico and start checking off 100 unforgettable experiences.
Download the Passport → Click Here
You may like these articles:
The Art of Belonging: How to Live Like a Local in Mexico City
The Art of Belonging: How to Live Like a Local in Mexico City
By Carole Reedy—
Famed author Maya Angelou once said: “I long, as does every human being, to be at home wherever I find myself.”
Wherever we are, most of us yearn for connections, familiarity, and comfort. You can find these feelings even while traveling … if you are armed with knowledge and savvy.
Here are some tips to assist you on your journey in one of the grandest cities of the world. If you have the luxury, allow yourself time to wander, absorb the culture, history, way of life, and routines of the locals.
Before the more practical recommendations, let’s reflect on a philosophical perspective. Despite the hustle bustle of the city, take time to roam (or as my friends and I say “flaneur”) through the neighborhoods (called colonias) that sprinkle the Valley of Mexico. Don’t pack too much in a day, as traveling around the big city takes time and energy, too.
Enjoy the unexpected and unanticipated joys of the moment. Look up and around … at the trees, sky, and skyscrapers. There are surprises around every corner. If you are fortunate enough to come in March, the jacarandas will be in full bloom.
Be open to the people on the street and metro or while shopping. Unlike the French, Mexicans will welcome you even though your Spanish may be not quite correct, or even if it’s nonexistent.
If you are like other visitors to this bewitching city, your memories will remain vivid long after you depart. Here are some practical ways to make your sojourn uncomplicated and rich.
Greetings!
First impressions are said to be the most important, and none is more so than the first words out of your mouth when greeting someone on the street, entering a room or a store, or addressing a waiter.
Friends visiting Mexico City (Ciudad de Mexico) are often surprised at how, in this heavily populated city, people take the time to greet one another. Americans in particular have a tendency to always appear to be in a rush, speaking rapidly and without the formality of a greeting.
The first words out of your mouth when entering a room, a meeting, or store, or simply on the street, should be buenos días (good morning), buenas tardes (good afternoon), or buenas noches (good evening or night). Another useful phrase is just buen día, short for que buen día (literally, may it be a good day – Spanish loves the subjunctive).
A smile goes a long way and is always appreciated. Mexicans always take time for a formal greeting before the chatter begins!
Time and pace
No hay prisa is a good motto to practice during your visit, be it for a week or a year. Literally the phrase means “there is no hurry.” Although some actions and attitudes may be interpreted as “slow and lazy” by some foreign cultural standards, Mexicans are deliberate and formal in their manners, which is actually considerably more sane than the frenzied manners of many foreigners.
Mexicans are patient. Often you will see lines of people waiting for a service. No one is yelling or complaining. People just wait and chat, somehow knowing that stress, and therefore raising their blood pressure, doesn’t do anyone any good or make the line move any faster.
“Why is everyone always late?” They aren’t. The concept of time is different south of the border. If you are invited to a party at 7 pm and show up at exactly 7 pm or, God forbid, earlier, you will be alone and your hosts may not even be dressed yet. It seems that guests stroll in when they want, and everyone thinks that is just fine. Not to worry. No one else will! You won’t miss dinner. If you’re invited for 8 pm, you may not eat until 11.
You may notice that if a business advertises its opening at 9 am, employees may not show up until 9:30 or so. Banks that open at 9 am (an institution you may think would be punctual) may open their doors on time but the employees will just be strolling in and preparing their desks for the day. Go with the flow.
Most entertainment events do not start exactly on time, but they do make an effort to begin within the half hour. Movies do begin on schedule, as do bullfights. When you’re at a supposedly sold-out live concert and you look around 10 minutes before it begins, you may wonder where everyone is. Look around 20 minutes later, and you will see a full house. Arriving early is neither the norm nor fashionable.
Ahorita is the most confusing Spanish word for foreigners. Literally, it means RIGHT NOW. But it never actually does. It can mean anywhere from five minutes to two hours, or even tomorrow morning. If a worker tells you he will return ahorita, the fact is you don’t know when that will be. Take it with a grain of salt. He may as well be saying “who knows?” If you do need a definite answer, ask a more definite question.
My Mexican friends know our northern habits, and therefore they do try to arrive close to the designated time when meeting me. You may not be able to change your lifelong habits, but wait patiently, and if you are on time by your standards, enjoy the ambience or, as I do, always carry a book with you!
Transport, Traffic, and La Hora Pico
Mexico City has a fine public transport system used by millions of people every day. The most used and popular are the Metro (mostly underground) and the Metrobus, which is a bus with its own lane. Cars NEVER drift over to the Metrobus lane; the fine for disobedience of this law is huge. Ambulances are allowed though.
Both systems are easy, and both use the same card for entrance. The metro is 5 pesos and the Metrobus is 6 pesos (basically 25 cents in US currency). The cards are available at all metro stations. There are maps online. Plus, there are actually two apps, chock full of information: Metrobus CDMX and AppCDMX.
The most important information to keep in mind, however, is La Hora Pico, or rush hour. It is a horror in Mexico City, and even the person who experiences no form of claustrophobia may experience a small panic attack when you observe the crushing hoards in action on public transport.
The hours to avoid public transport or driving: weekdays 7 am to 10 am and then again 5 pm to 9 pm. This applies to all areas of the city. Arrive at your destination early and enjoy a cappuccino if need be.
Metrobus and Metro cars are clean and efficient. The first car of each transport train is designated for women, children, and the elderly. Please honor this, as all of us do.
City buses are available in many parts of the city. There are lots of bike lanes, and it appears more people use them daily. If you travel north in the city or far south you may see cable cars as public transport. In Ixtapalapa, the home owners paint creative designs on their roofs for the enjoyment of the cable car riders.
Do beware of bikes and motorcycles. They seem to believe traffic laws are not written for them, running red lights and essentially just doing as they please. Helmet laws are in effect.
If you are an Uber user, you should be quite content with the service here. The cars are clean and well maintained, unlike many taxis. The drivers are, for the most part, a delight and very often talkative, some speaking English. If you do speak some Spanish, this is a good way to practice. Strike up a conversation; they too enjoy practicing their English.
In every way, Ubers are better than taxis, including reasons of safety and the price of your journey. Do not enter a taxi that accepts only credit cards; it is a scam that will charge your card more than the actual price. I do have a taxi sitio (taxi stand) in my neighborhood that I trust, but for the most part Ubers are the better choice, an important factor being that you are not watching the meter run while sitting in traffic.
Ubers know the quickest and safest routes. You can call them right on the street as well as from a designated location.
Banking
Here are a few money-saving and helpful tips about ATM withdrawals.
First of all, to avoid fraud, always use a bank ATM. A big money saver is to refuse the rate of exchange the bank ATM offers you when you enter your card. Most ATMs provide instructions in both Spanish and English. Just press NO when it reads “Do you accept this rate of exchange?” That way you will receive the exchange rate of your personal bank, which will be assuredly less.
It is best to do your cash withdrawals during weekdays. The ATMs run out of money on the weekends and especially during puentes, three-day weekends.
The cost of an ATM transaction also varies by bank, so if you are not happy with the rate at one bank, try another.
You will always get Mexican pesos at the bank ATMs. Should you need US dollars, you will need to visit a casa de cambio (money exchange).
The Joy of Eating
With the more practical matters out of the way, let’s end with a short discussion about Mexican eating habits and protocols.
The grand capital is replete with restaurants for every eating preference and idiosyncrasy. You may feel overwhelmed when you look online for your favorite. So, here are some general options to narrow down your choices.
The meals. Instead of breakfast, lunch, and dinner, all of México enjoys desayuno, comida, and cena.
Desayuno is eaten before 10 am. Comida, the main meal of the day, begins as early as 1 or 2 pm and is served until 4 or 5 pm. Cena is a light evening meal offered from 7 to 10 pm. This is the habit in Mexican homes. Restaurants often adapt to foreign timetables for eating, and since restaurant times may vary, best to check hours on line.
Street food. To eat or not to eat? My guests’ favorite question, and my advice is benign: It is up to you. There are risks involved everywhere, but more so from street vendors. Often there is no running water in the puestos de comida (food stalls), and employees often handle money and food simultaneously.
The food is usually delicious, and it’s certainly quite cheap. Millions of Mexican workers eat it every day. I confess to eating street taco carnitas occasionally, even though I may experience gastrointestinal backlash the next day.
Market eating. Everyone enjoys the huge buildings that house mountains of fruits, vegetables, meat, and often household items. There are also small restaurants inside the markets. One of my favorites is Mercado Medellin (located in Roma Sur on Campeche and Medellin streets). The market has two locations for restaurants, so be sure to ask one of the vendors where to go.
Chains. Here are some unexpected spots that serve great Mexican meals.
The most famous chain store that also houses a restaurant is Sanborns, owned by the world-famous entrepreneur Carlos Slim.
To this day, the distinct dress of the Sanborns waitresses is famous, going back more than a century ago. Collector and dealer of folk art and archaeological artifacts Francis Davis was invited to open a Mexican curio shop inside the Sanborns Casa de los Azulejos, located in Centro. Davis designed a uniform for the servers and according to some, it was loaded with typical Mexican references. It adds such charm to the restaurant.
Sanborns has a good variety of Mexican food which is quite tasty and traditional. There are Sanborns shops located all over the city. There you will find books, scarves, pharmaceuticals, jewelry, perfumes, and electronics, with the merchandise varying from store to store. It is a practical place to shop, and it is a legend.
Another excellent chain for Mexican food is the Bajio restaurants. Like Sanborns, they are located all over the city. The food is outstanding with a good variety. I frequent the one in the Reforma 222 shopping center. Carnitas are a specialty.
Tipping. Waiters and waitresses receive very small salaries – thus they depend on tips. Some owners do not even pay a salary, the workers’ only compensation being tips. Twenty percent is traditional if the service is good. So please tip your wait staff.
Crème de la crème restaurant. Since I’m always asked about this, I will reluctantly address it here. Based on the reaction of my visitors and reviews, the best upscale restaurant is Rosetta, located in Roma Norte, with the Rosetta bakery, located on the next block, as the choice for the best cafe. Definitely the best pastry is the cafe’s Mil Hojas, covered at greater length in my article “Where the Locals Hang Out: The Unsung Treasures of CDMX” (February 2025).
Soak in the sunshine and joy of this city that is unlike any other.
“One never reaches home, but wherever friendly paths intersect the whole world looks like home for a time.” Hermann Hesse
Keep Exploring Mexico
Get your free Passport to Mexico and start checking off 100 unforgettable experiences.
Orizaba: A Mountain Jewel in Veracruz
By Alicia Flores—
Nestled in the heart of the mountains between Puebla and Veracruz lies Orizaba, a city that many travelers still overlook—but shouldn’t. With its colonial architecture, cool climate, and surrounding natural beauty, Orizaba offers a unique mix of history, culture, and outdoor adventure that feels both surprising and welcoming.
The first thing you notice when you arrive in Orizaba is how green everything is. The city sits in a valley below the towering Pico de Orizaba—the tallest mountain in Mexico and the third-highest in North America. Known in Nahuatl as Citlaltépetl, or “Star Mountain,” this dormant volcano dominates the horizon and adds a quiet majesty to the landscape. Even if you’re not planning to climb it (which takes serious mountaineering experience), just knowing it’s there changes the way you see the place. The mountain is more than a backdrop—it feels like a guardian.
The city itself is small but full of charm. The historical center is easy to explore on foot, with well-preserved 19th-century buildings, wide plazas, and iron-laced balconies that speak of a prosperous past. One of the best ways to start your visit is with the Teleférico de Orizaba—a cable car that glides from the city center up to Cerro del Borrego. The views are breathtaking, and once at the top, you can explore walking trails or visit the museum that explains the mountain’s role during the French Intervention in the 19th century.
Back in town, Orizaba is proud of its art and culture. The Palacio de Hierro (Iron Palace) is a standout building designed by Gustave Eiffel—the same engineer who gave Paris its famous tower. This unique structure houses several small museums, including one dedicated to Mexican beer and another with a collection of masks from around the country. It’s also a great spot to learn more about the local history, including the city’s importance during the Porfirio Díaz era.
One of my favorite things to do in Orizaba is walk along the Río Orizaba. The river cuts through the town and is lined with walking paths, murals, and even small animal enclosures that serve as a sort of open-air zoo. It’s a peaceful place for a morning stroll or afternoon break, and the cool mountain air makes it feel refreshing even during the warmer months.
For more history and dining options, visit the Poliforum Mier y Pesado, or Iron Palace, an early 20th-century orphanage, then a school, then a retirement center, built in the French style. It has wonderful ironwork, beautiful gardens, and hosts cultural events. There are a couple of museums, one of which, the Museo del Traje, showcases traditional clothing. The restaurants lean to the upscale, but there are a couple of less expensive cafes. The Poliforum is located on Oriente 6, 1653, a couple of kilometers east of the historic center.
Food in Orizaba is hearty and delicious, shaped by the surrounding regions and the city’s own traditions. Expect tamales wrapped in banana leaves, chiles rellenos in local-style sauces, and sweet treats like jamoncillo (a kind of milk fudge) and toritos—a strong local liqueur made from fruit and sugarcane alcohol. Markets and casual restaurants offer some of the best flavors, but you’ll also find a growing number of cafés and bakeries run by young entrepreneurs bringing fresh energy into the culinary scene.
Because of its location, Orizaba makes a great base if you want to explore more of central Veracruz. Nearby towns like Córdoba or the coffee-growing region of Huatusco are perfect for day trips. But even if you don’t leave the city, Orizaba offers enough beauty and history to keep you happily occupied.
There’s something grounded and genuine about Orizaba. It’s not polished like a resort town, and it’s not trying to be something it’s not. The people are warm, the pace is relaxed, and the air smells faintly of pine and distant rain. It’s a place that doesn’t shout to be seen, but rather invites you to slow down and notice.
If you find yourself looking for a lesser-known part of Mexico to explore—one that blends mountains, culture, and heart—Orizaba might just be your next favorite stop.
Keep Exploring Mexico
Get your free Passport to Mexico and start checking off 100 unforgettable experiences.
Download the Passport → Click Here
You may like these articles:
The Art of Belonging: How to Live Like a Local in Mexico City
The Cash or Credit Card Conundrum in Oaxaca
By Alvin Starkman, M.A., J.D.
Earlier this year a federally licensed driver recounted a story about a couple vacationing in Oaxaca from Australia, and wanting to enlist his chauffeur services for the following day. All was arranged until the Aussies asked, “Can we pay at the end of the day with VISA?” He replied that he was not equipped for credit cards, but certainly cash in USD or pesos would be fine, or even paypal. They had no cash, and stated that they could not access paypal or an ATM with the card(s) they had. Imagine!
We all know that travellers cheques are essentially a thing of the past. And at least here in Oaxaca, so is the premium previously placed on purchasing with US dollars. But most significantly, credit card usage is going the way of the Dodo. Here’s why.
Certainly the larger hotels, airlines, car rental companies and restaurants readily accept credit cards, and do not charge a premium for their use. As well, they still remain a valuable means by which to confirm a reservation. But for day-to-day purchases while in Oaxaca, credit cards are a less than desirable means of transacting business, as are US dollars.
Many small craft workshops in the villages simply do not have credit card capability, even some of those with the most exquisite, high quality work. And where credit cards are indeed accepted, sometimes there is not a strong enough phone or Internet signal enabling the shopkeepers to process the purchase. If there is, often you will be asked to pay the retailer’s fee paid to the credit card company, sometimes 5 – 6%. While I don’t think that in most first world countries it’s permitted, certainly in Oaxaca often retailers provide a 10 – 15% discount for cash. It’s noteworthy that on almost all goods and services that are recorded, a 16% value-added tax (IVA) applies.
As more financial transactions move online, travelers also need to consider the security of their personal information, particularly when accessing banking services over public Wi-Fi. Understanding what is a vpn vs proxy can help clarify how these tools protect online connections.
Negotiating price is still possible in Oaxaca, but certainly no nearly to the extent it was in the 60s, 70s and 80s. Competition is fierce, and the vagaries of tourism in the state of Oaxaca dictate that retailers start with competitive prices … at least in most cases, where reputable vendors are not interested in seeing if they can “hook a live one.” Of course, it still exists, but not like before. The implication is that on balance you are beginning with ticket prices which translate to basically actual market value of the item. The only way to induce a lower price is buying in quantity, with cash, and it should be in pesos. Even buying by the dozen does not provide an assurance of a significantly lower price, because profit margins are simply not the same as they are in the US or Canada. Often I pay the same per liter price for 20 liters of a particular mezcal as I do for one. Or at best there is perhaps a 5% discount.
By why not US dollars? Until the early years of this century, US cash was still king. Either it was being saved up for a pending visit to the US, or those in urban centers were taking it to banks and exchange houses to convert to pesos.
Then the Mexican government, in an apparent attempt to curtail money laundering and the cash economy in general, began implementing a series of rules and regulations requiring ID when exchanging and reporting to government. Many banks simply ceased money exchange operations, and those that continued placed low monthly maximums on the amount of US dollars that could be exchanged. Most recently here in Oaxaca, the one bank that used to be a reliable exchange avenue began adopting a rule that without an account at one of its branches, no exchange.
For many in rural areas, including craft villages and artisanal mezcal distilleries, it became a pain taking US dollars to larger urban centers, unless, of course, it was worth one’s while by offering foreign customers a much less attractive rate of exchange than they or anyone else could get in the city’s banks and exchange houses.
The final straw came on November 8, 2017, with the election of President Trump. Those who had traditionally relished the opportunity to receive and hoard US dollars, anticipating a visit to the US sooner or later, began to think a bit differently, not because of any specific animosity towards the American public, but rather assumptions that:
- It would be more difficult than previously to obtain a US visa.
- Even if a visa were secured, the likelihood of being turned away at the port of entry would increase.
- Whatever anti-Mexican sentiment and bigotry there existed in the US somehow became legitimized. Mexicans are less inclined than previously to spend their money in the US.
So US currency has lost its shine. Credit cards have their downfalls. That leaves us with Paypal, which is gradually catching on throughout the state, and ATMs. Bring your cards that enable withdrawals at Mexican ATMs. Notify your home bank before your visit, and consider increasing your maximum withdrawal amount and number of times per week you can access your cash. Bring at least two cards, since although it happens rarely, ATMs have been known to eat and not regurgitate debit and credit cards. Consider opening an account at your home bank that, in exchange for maintaining a modest minimum monthly balance, does not charge a fee for ATM withdrawals from foreign banks. Oaxacan banks charge as little as 30.74 pesos per withdrawal, a bargain as long as you remember to withdraw the occasional larger sum rather than frequently small amounts.
Yes, not using your credit card means no points, but remember that the amount you’ll be spending here in Oaxaca in the end won’t mean a tinker’s dam.
Alvin Starkman operates Mezcal Educational Excursions of Oaxaca
You must be logged in to post a comment.