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Huatulco

The Convention Centre – Huatulco’s Unfinished Promise

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By Randy Jackson—

In December 2025, formal notices of seizure were posted across the skeletal structure of the Huatulco Convention Center overlooking the Chahué Marina. Issued by the Specialized Anti-Corruption Prosecutor’s Office of Oaxaca, the notices designate the unfinished building as part of an ongoing criminal investigation, legally immobilizing the site. With that act, a project once promoted as a cornerstone of Huatulco’s future tourism economy entered a new phase, no longer merely incomplete, but formally frozen.

Projects like this are often referred to in Mexico as elefantes blancos: costly public works that never fully deliver on their promise. They are not unique to Oaxaca, nor to Mexico. What makes the Huatulco Convention Center distinctive is how its fate now sits at the intersection of ambitious planning, technical complexity, and a political transition that has left the structure and the community caught in prolonged limbo.

A PROMISE OF DEVELOPMENT

On October 5, 2019, the Oaxacan legislature authorized 3.5 billion pesos in financing for a broad portfolio of infrastructure projects across the state, intended to stimulate employment and reduce poverty. Among them was a proposed convention center for Huatulco. At the time, then-governor Alejandro Murat pledged that a special committee would closely monitor the use of public funds, and that all projects would be completed before the end of his term in 2022.

According to early project documentation, the Huatulco Convention Center was initially budgeted at 70 million pesos (US $3.7 million). Even in retrospect, that figure now appears unrealistically low, reflecting a preliminary concept rather than a fully defined architectural or engineering plan.

Shortly thereafter, the COVID-19 pandemic disrupted public works across Mexico. During that pause, however, the project was not merely postponed; it was substantially reimagined. State officials reframed it as a “strategic trigger” capable of elevating Huatulco into the international convention market alongside destinations such as Cancún or Los Cabos.

A VISION TAKES SHAPE

In December 2020, Governor Murat announced a dramatically upgraded project: an iconic waterfront convention center designed to attract international MICE (Meetings, Incentives, Conferences, and Exhibitions) tourism. To realize that vision, he appointed architect Enrique Norten, founder of TEN Arquitectos, a Mexican firm internationally recognized for contemporary civic and cultural projects characterized by glass, steel, and bold structural expression.

The proposed design called for an approximately 11,000-square-meter facility integrated into the Chahué Marina, including a 1,285-seat auditorium with advanced acoustics capable of hosting concerts, theatrical productions, and academic conferences. Public plazas and green spaces were incorporated to ensure the building functioned as a community asset rather than a sealed, single-purpose venue.

WHEN REALITY COLLIDES WITH VISION

As the project moved from concept to engineered design, costs escalated rapidly. Building a large-scale performance venue on reclaimed waterfront land introduced significant technical challenges. According to statements from state infrastructure officials at the time, the site required extensive geotechnical reinforcement, including deep foundation work and large-scale soil stabilization, to create a stable foundation before vertical construction could even begin.

As planning advanced and architectural designs were finalized, cost estimates were revised upward. By the time construction formally began in 2022, official figures placed the project at over 320 million pesos. While that amount represented a dramatic increase over early estimates, it more closely reflected the market realities of constructing a specialized, architecturally complex facility in a marine environment. What had begun as a modest line item had evolved into a technically sophisticated public landmark.

A PROJECT IN POLITICAL LIMBO

On November 29, 2022, just forty-eight hours before his term ended, Governor Murat formally inaugurated the Huatulco Convention Center in its unfinished state. Without lighting, equipment, or connection to the electrical grid, the structure nonetheless stood complete enough for a ceremonial ribbon cutting.

For the incoming state administration, the building quickly became a focal point, symbolizing unfinished business and, potentially, deeper irregularities. Rather than advancing construction, authorities shifted their attention to investigation.

Transitions between political administrations in Mexico often involve heightened scrutiny of major public works, particularly those left incomplete. Supporters see this as accountability; critics argue that prolonged investigations can indefinitely freeze projects, regardless of their potential public benefit. In Huatulco, the result has been paralysis: a completed shell, neither advanced nor dismantled, sitting idle on one of the town’s most prominent waterfront sites.

JUSTICE OR POLITICAL THEATER?

The seizure notices posted on the convention center walls are tied to a broader investigation into the 2019 infrastructure program. In late 2023, the Oaxacan Anti-Corruption Prosecutor’s Office arrested Javier Lazcano Vargas, charging him with illicit enrichment and misuse of public funds related to those projects.

Meanwhile, former governor Alejandro Murat has followed a surprisingly different political trajectory. After leaving office, he joined the ruling MORENA party and secured a seat in the Senate, thereby obtaining fuero, the constitutional immunity afforded to high-ranking legislators. The contrast has not gone unnoticed locally. For many in Huatulco, the stalled convention center has become less a symbol of justice pursued than of accountability deferred.

None of this is to suggest that investigations should be abandoned or that financial irregularities, if proven, should go unpunished. But when a criminal process indefinitely halts a project with clear public value, questions arise about balance: between enforcing accountability and fulfilling the state’s obligation to serve the community.

THE COST OF STANDSTILL

For local tourism operators, business owners, and residents, the convention center represents more than a political controversy. It was envisioned as an economic catalyst, one capable of extending the tourist season, supporting local employment, and anchoring complementary cultural and commercial activity around the marina. Its continued dormancy carries opportunity costs that compound with each passing year.

Justice and development need not be mutually exclusive. Yet as long as the Huatulco Convention Center remains sealed off as an immobilized site, it stands as a reminder that infrastructure can become collateral damage in political struggles. The unfinished structure on the Chahué waterfront is no longer just an unrealized building; it is a test of whether governance in Oaxaca can reconcile accountability with the practical needs of the communities it serves.

Randy Jackson blends local reporting from the perspective of a seasonal Huatulco resident with explorations of life and change in Huatulco, Oaxaca and Mexico. Email, box95jackson@gmail.com

Huatulco

Huatulco Snowbird Survey

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By Randy Jackson—

In another time, long ago, I owned a travel bookstore. This was before the internet, back when the world was still big and filled with foreign places. Mostly, my bookstore attracted adventurers bound for faraway lands, and I shared their excitement from behind the counter. But one pattern was persistent: Long-term travellers often returned early, cutting their trips short and citing a need for belonging, for Home.

As a long-time seasonal resident of Huatulco, I remain interested in the paradox of the impulse to explore versus the need for belonging: Have Huatulco snowbirds solved this conundrum, or are they simply seeking tropical warmth and companionship over margaritas? This question led me to conduct the Huatulco Snowbird Survey. Presented here are some of the key findings from that effort; the full results can be found on the website http://www.seasonedhuatulco.com.

I’ve tabulated anonymous results from 106 seasonal and long-term visitors of Canadian and American origin. While the actual size of the snowbird population is unknown (likely between 2,000 and 5,000), these responses offer an intriguing snapshot of the attributes and lifestyle choices of Huatulco’s seasonal residents. It’s not a scientific survey, given the small sample size, but it still provides a unique window into this community.

Longevity and Loyalty

Snowbirds have been consistently returning to Huatulco for several years. The bar graph shows two main humps. Almost 20% of respondents fall into the 4–6 year range, while the larger cluster, of nearly 30%, is in the 12 to 16 year range. When applying the results to a standard distribution curve (for any statistical nerds), it tells us the overall average number of years snowbirds have been returning to Huatulco is thirteen.

Where Winter Ends

Predictably, the geographical origin of Huatulco’s seasonal residents tells the story of escaping the deepest winter cold. The survey data were insufficient to provide a breakdown of the home states of the US snowbirds, but for Canada, the top three home provinces are Alberta, Ontario, and British Columbia. The complete breakdown by province is in the full survey results on http://www.seasonedhuatulco.com.

Staying and Mobility – The Mechanics of Huatulco Snowbird Life

The survey reveals a near-perfect split between accommodation choices: 55% of respondents rent their properties, many of whom are consistent year-over-year renters, while 45% have chosen to purchase their own homes, indicating a long-term investment in a second home.

While the vast majority, 97% of respondents (survey says), choose the convenience of flying to and from Huatulco each season rather than drive, once here, their local transportation options are varied. 24% of those surveyed have purchased a car, and another 10% own a motorcycle or scooter, illustrating a desire for greater independence beyond taxis and local buses.

More than Margaritas: Activities and Engagement

It seems like a truism that trading cold weather for the tropics encourages a more active lifestyle, and our survey results for Huatulco snowbirds support this assumption. Forty-three percent (43%) of respondents report being more physically active in Huatulco than at home, compared to only 10% who are less active.

The survey responses show a commitment to activity, often driven by Huatulco’s best asset: the warm Pacific Ocean. When asked about regular activities, water-based activities dominate the list. While Huatulco also attracts dedicated participants in Pickleball, Yoga and other activities, where the primary driver of physical activity is the surrounding natural environment.

The survey asked; What activities do you regularly participate in while in Huatulco? (Select all that apply to you)

Beyond physical activity, many Huatulco snowbirds demonstrate an evident dedication to cultural engagement, particularly through language acquisition. The majority of survey respondents are actively attempting to improve their Spanish communication skills.

The motivation to learn Spanish is rooted in both personal enrichment and respect for the local culture. However, proficiency levels indicate the journey is ongoing for most.

Beyond Activities: Why Snowbirds Return To Huatulco

Back in our northern homes, our personal history shapes who we know and what we do. Here, strangers become companions without any of those usual ties. The survey results show that
Snowbirds return to Huatulco for more than the activities they enjoy here; they return for how this place makes them feel, and how that unexpected community of strangers forms each winter.

For an explanation of how these results were tabulated, and for results on suggested improvements in Huatulco, why snowbirds would stop coming, and the travel experience of Huatulco snowbirds, check out the full results at seasonedhuatulco.com.

Have Snowbirds Solved The Travellers’ Paradox?

Has the snowbird lifestyle solved the paradox of the impulse to explore versus the need for belonging?

In those conversations with my bookstore customers who cut their travels short, I always assumed their impulse to explore wasn’t exhausted; it just needed a rest. Travel has long been linked with personal growth; as a quote often attributed to Saint Augustine puts it, “The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page.” The survey offers us facts about who we are as a snowbird community in Huatulco, but it also echoes an observation I once read in a study: snowbirds seem to be looking for something. And that “something” may well be reflected in the top categories used to group the responses to the question: What does the snowbird experience mean in your life? These include Growth, Freedom, Friendship, Community, Identity, and Belonging. In the end, these may be the real coordinates of the Huatulco snowbird experience.

Randy Jackson blends local reporting from the perspective of a seasonal Huatulco resident with explorations of life and change in Huatulco, Oaxaca and Mexico. Email, box95jackson@gmail.com

Huatulco

Reviving Rail: A New Era for Mexico’s Transportation

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By Randy Jackson—

For fifteen years, our annual migration south meant driving the length of Mexico—from Nuevo Laredo to Huatulco. But not anymore. Over time, the toll roads have steadily improved and extended, now reaching all the way to the Oaxacan coast. But as the roads improved, so too did the volume of semi-trucks. What began as an encouraging sign of economic growth, especially in the northern half of Mexico, has become a source of gridlock. The tollways are now truckways—clogged with freight traffic that slows travel and occasionally brings highways to a standstill.

And it’s not just the highways. Urban congestion is becoming unbearable. Try stopping in San Luis Potosí, and you may find yourself mired in a 24/7 rush hour. The operations of global manufacturers like General Motors and BMW largely drive that gridlock. Efficient transportation is vital to economic life, but Mexico’s current road-based system is straining under pressure. For the first time in decades, the country is signalling a shift—from asphalt to steel—investing in rail projects that aim not only to reduce road traffic, but to position rail as a driver of future growth.

MEXICO’S GOLDEN AGE OF RAILWAYS

Mexico’s golden age of rail came under the pre-revolutionary presidency of Porfirio Díaz. When Díaz took office, Mexico had just 670 km of rail; by the end of his term in 1910, that number had jumped to 24,700 km. The building boom was fueled by concessions to foreign investors, a practical but flawed approach that produced inconsistent track gauges and just three nationwide connections. The destruction and disorder of the Mexican Revolution halted progress. Later, foreign-owned railways were nationalized, which helped standardize track width and improve interconnectivity.

Though rail suffered for decades from poor maintenance, corruption, and union strife, it still marked a major step in Mexico’s industrialization. In its early days, rail was up to ten times faster than roads and slashed freight costs by as much as 80%. But under investment, administrative failures, and shifting government priorities gradually relegated rail to a secondary role. Roads took precedence, and the consequences—congestion, emissions, economic bottlenecks—are now coming home to roost.

A DETOUR INTO ASPHALT

In 1995, under President Ernesto Zedillo, Mexican railways were privatized. The national rail system was divided among three major companies that still operate today: Kansas City Southern de México (KCSM) in the northeast, and Ferromex and Ferrosur, both now owned by the conglomerate Grupo México.

Over time, these private operators shut down nearly all passenger services, citing a lack of profitability. For many years, only two tourist trains remained: El Chepe in the Copper Canyon and the José Cuervo Express on the Guadalajara–Tequila line.

That downward trajectory began to reverse under President Andrés Manuel López Obrador (AMLO), who made passenger rail a national priority. His administration launched high-profile projects like the Maya Train and the Interoceanic Corridor and passed reforms requiring private freight lines to support or offer passenger service.

His successor, Claudia Sheinbaum, has pledged to continue this shift—supporting existing projects while proposing new routes. Together, these efforts signal a strategic turn: new rail infrastructure designed to support regional economies, diversify tourism, and ease the country’s dependence on highways.

STEEL AMBITIONS
Mexico’s new rail projects are large-scale passenger projects and freight modernization, aiming to cut road dependency, stimulate tourism, and strengthen industrial corridors.

Tren Maya – This project’s cost has ballooned to $28B USD—a passenger train stretching 1,500 km across five southeastern states. The train is now partially operational, with more sections and stations scheduled to open in the future. It aims to spread tourism away from the Riviera Maya’s concentration, create jobs, and link new economic hubs. However, the project has also been a source of significant controversy due to its environmental and social impacts.

Mexico–Toluca Interurban Train – With costs swelling to nearly $10B USD, this 58-km commuter line connects Toluca with western Mexico City. Well-publicized delays have pushed full operation out to 2026, though partial service began in 2023. The train is designed to ease congestion and reduce emissions. Its escalating costs and long delays, however, have demonstrated the hurdles faced in new infrastructure construction in Mexico.

Mexico City–Pachuca & Querétaro Lines – Two proposed high-speed routes, with the Pachuca line estimated at $2.5B USD and the Querétaro line at $7B USD. Construction began in 2025. They are intended to extend rail northward, linking the capital with fast-growing industrial centers. Strategically, they would strengthen central Mexico’s manufacturing corridor, provide alternatives to crowded highways, and reduce emissions. Political will and financing are key uncertainties for moving these projects forward.

Interoceanic Corridor of the Isthmus of Tehuantepec (CIIT): This is a freight modernization project with a reported cost of over $7 billion USD. It upgrades a 300-km rail line between the ports of Salina Cruz on the Pacific coast and Coatzacoalcos on the Gulf of Mexico. While limited passenger and freight services began in late 2023, the project is still undergoing major expansions, with the full system expected to be completed in 2026. This project is strategically significant as it is meant to create a competitive alternative to the Panama Canal. It also aims to stimulate economic development in one of Mexico’s poorest regions. Besides port expansions, the project’s plans call for new industrial parks along the route to attract investment. As promising as the project is, questions remain about its ability to attract sustained international shipping and investment.
RELIEF IN RAIL? THE VIEW FROM THE DRIVER’S SEAT
After decades of pouring resources into asphalt, the shift back to steel marks a strategic bet on efficiency and economic development. For those of us who have spent long days driving south, boxed in by semis on endless tollways, the return of rail isn’t just policy; it feels like long-overdue relief. Still, with costs climbing and schedules slipping, the success of these projects will depend on sustained political will and the willingness to commit serious resources in the years ahead

Huatulco

Huatulco’s Next Wave: Adapting to Mexico’s Changing Tourism Priorities

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By Randy Jackson

Each year, when we arrive at La Bocana for the first time, boogieboards tucked under one arm, we stop to see how the forces of nature have reshaped the beach since our last visit six months earlier. The sand is never the same; sometimes subtly shifted, sometimes dramatically reformed. But we always adapt. We watch the waves, find the rhythm, and surf. Huatulco, too, is shaped by forces of change, not only hurricanes and earthquakes but shifts in national policy and priorities. These changes may not be as visible as a redrawn shoreline, but they carry consequences just the same.

A New Presidency, Old Currents

This year, Mexico marks the first anniversary of President Claudia Sheinbaum’s term. She has been celebrated for breaking gender barriers and bringing a more academic tone to politics. But for resorts like Huatulco, the most significant shifts began earlier. The rethinking of tourism as an economic driver, along with the changes implemented by agencies like FONATUR, took root under the administration of former President Andrés Manuel López Obrador. So far, Sheinbaum appears poised to follow those policies.

The Fourth Transformation

To understand how Huatulco fits into this national realignment, it’s helpful to revisit what AMLO called the Fourth Transformation, his sweeping effort to redefine Mexico’s relationship with markets, foreign investment, and development itself. Drawing on three foundational periods in Mexican history—independence from Spain, the 19th-century Reform movement, and the Mexican Revolution—AMLO positioned his administration as the next great change. AMLO’s Fourth Transformation (4T) marked a departure from decades of neoliberal policies, aiming to reclaim national sovereignty and redistribute power away from economic elites, allowing the state to play a more active role in development.

Whether the 4T will live up to its historical billing remains to be seen. Still, President Sheinbaum has made her stance clear: “We are going to deepen the transformation, not reverse it.” For Huatulco, like other destinations born under FONATUR’s original vision, the Bob Dylan refrain still applies: The times, they are a-changin’.

FONATUR’s Rise and Retreat

Mexico continues to invest heavily in economic development, but large-scale, master-planned tourist resorts are no longer the centrepiece. When FONATUR was created in the 1970s, its mission was to plan, finance, and build integrated tourism destinations in remote coastal areas. The federal government would install airports, roads, water systems, and other infrastructure, setting the stage for private investors to bring hotels, restaurants, and jobs. The result was supposed to be a trickle-down boost for nearby communities.

In the 1980s, FONATUR transformed a string of untouched bays along Oaxaca’s coast into the resort of Huatulco. For some time, the concept seemed viable. But like the beachgoers adjusting to new surf, FONATUR found itself navigating shifting economic currents. The global tourism market for beach resorts became crowded, and other destinations, such as Caribbean all-inclusive resorts, and even competing FONATUR projects like Cancún and Los Cabos, offered cheaper and easier alternatives to Huatulco.

From Resorts to Railways

Still, the lesson took some time to sink in. FONATUR continued launching new mega-projects, such as Loreto in Baja California. In 2007, Loreto briefly topped destination real estate sales charts. However, the 2008 global financial crisis and subsequent U.S. recession halted the momentum. Investors paused. Projects stalled. And gradually, Mexico’s tourism strategy began to shift.

Under President Peña Nieto (2012–2018), a sector-wide review led to a curtailment of FONATUR’s expansion. Funding to destinations like Huatulco focused more on infrastructure maintenance than growth. Then came AMLO, who dramatically reoriented the agency. FONATUR’s traditional role in resort development and maintenance was significantly reduced. Resources were redirected to the Maya Train, a controversial infrastructure project billed as a tourism initiative, although it is perhaps better understood as a regional economic development initiative. President Sheinbaum has embraced and extended this strategy, most recently announcing the Maya Train’s expansion into Guatemala.

For Huatulco, this confirms what many already sensed: the national spotlight has moved elsewhere. The cartoon image below may exaggerate the moment, but the message is real: while some of us wave tourists into the surf, a much larger wave of policy, budget, and priorities is cresting behind us.

Still, FONATUR isn’t gone. It remains a significant landholder in Huatulco, controlling the unsold parcels from its original 1984 expropriation. The question is whether it can be repurposed as a steward, rather than a builder, which is less about launching new resorts and more about maintaining what already exists.

A New Kind of Partnership?

A new pivot might align well with Sheinbaum’s emphasis on sustainability. For Huatulco to ride the next wave, a new kind of partnership is needed —one that brings together FONATUR, the state of Oaxaca, and local stakeholders at the same table. A coordinated strategy could target essential needs, such as water and sewage infrastructure. Revenues from FONATUR’s Huatulco land sales, combined with FIDELO’s operational expertise and input from local businesses, could support a development plan that is realistic, sustainable, and tailored to the region’s needs.

Surfing Ahead

Whatever form it takes, the priority must be to protect what sustains Huatulco’s economy while preserving the natural beauty that draws people here in the first place. If successful, it could offer a model for other FONATUR-born resorts navigating similar transitions.

As President Sheinbaum completes her first year in office, balancing domestic pressures and global uncertainties, this type of pragmatic regional initiative could represent a meaningful path forward. The wave of change is real, and while Huatulco may seem like a small fish in Mexico’s broader political sea, it is of significant importance to us Huatulcoites. And as the surfers at La Bocana know, timing and effort often make the difference between riding the wave and being pulled under.

Huatulco

Can Desalination Quench Huatulco’s Thirst?

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By Randy Jackson

Check into a luxury resort in Huatulco, and you’ll find cascading pools and long, powerful showers. Water feels abundant. Yet just down the road, a neighbourhood may be waiting days for a water truck to arrive. Between the blue Pacific and the green forested mountains, this idyllic destination hides a growing imbalance: Huatulco’s potable water supply is no longer keeping pace with the demands of an expanding resort and its surrounding communities.

This struggle mirrors water issues found across Mexico. While long-term infrastructure investment remains essential, relying solely on public funding may no longer be realistic. To meet the growing needs of Huatulco, it’s time to consider new approaches, ones that combine modern water technologies, public-private partnerships, and conservation. There is no silver bullet, but with the right vision, Huatulco could become a model for sustainable water management across Mexico and beyond.

Huatulco’s Water Situation

Huatulco’s water infrastructure was planned and built by Mexico’s national tourism agency, FONATUR (Fondo Nacional de Fomento al Turismo), in the 1990s as part of the original development blueprint for the resort. The system draws from eight semi-deep wells in the Copalita River watershed, feeding into 16 storage tanks along a 12-kilometre distribution main line. While still operational, the system is showing its age. In 2022, CONAGUA (Comisión Nacional del Agua) classified the Copalita aquifer as having medium availability but noted that the downstream infrastructure was increasingly outdated. A year later, the Secretariat of Infrastructure, Communications and Transportation (SICT) confirmed the need for major upgrades.

Today, over 50% of Huatulco’s potable water goes to the tourism and hotel sector. Per capita use is heavily skewed, with oceanside hotels and condominiums consuming a disproportionate share. Meanwhile, population growth has steadily increased overall demand, straining both supply and delivery. Much of this concentrated water use takes place within the tourism corridor, a relatively compact stretch of just four bays and eight kilometres of coastline. Inland neighbourhoods, in contrast, often face shortages and delays.

This imbalance, while problematic, may also represent an opportunity. Could the tourism sector pilot a localized, sustainable solution, one that draws from the very ocean it overlooks?

Modern Desalination Technology

In the 1967 film The Graduate, Dustin Hoffman’s character, Benjamin Braddock, receives career advice in an iconic exchange. A friend of his father says, “I just want to say one word to you. Just one word: plastics.” It was sound advice for the industrial boom of the 1960s. Today, if I had just one word to offer, it would be desalination.

As climate change alters rainfall patterns and droughts become more frequent, desalination is no longer an experimental method; it’s a proven way to convert seawater into drinking water. Countries like Israel and Saudi Arabia now rely on it for the majority of their potable water. In Israel, up to 80% of the drinking supply comes from desalination. Mexico, too, is investing in the technology. Across the country, some 350 plants are currently processing around 750,000 cubic meters (198 million gallons) of water per day. For context, Huatulco’s wells produce about 11,000 cubic meters daily, a small fraction by comparison.

There are two primary methods for removing salt from seawater. The older method is thermal desalination, where water is boiled, the steam is condensed, and you’re left with fresh water. It’s effective but expensive and energy intensive. The more common method today is reverse osmosis (RO), where seawater is forced through a semi-permeable membrane that filters out the salt. Thermal plants, such as the one built in Rosarito, Baja California, in the 1960s, have largely given way to RO systems due to their lower energy demands and reduced environmental impact. Today, nearly all new and planned desalination projects in Mexico and worldwide use RO technology.

Several small to mid-scale RO projects are now being implemented in coastal communities, some driven by necessity, others by innovation. A closer look at a few of these projects may offer valuable insights for Huatulco.

Some Innovative Public-Private Projects

The municipality of Los Cabos, Baja California, requires major new developments, especially luxury resorts, to install their own desalination plants. There are now between 25 and 30 such facilities in the region, many of which are privately or community-operated, often located within gated developments. One notable example is Pedregal, a high-end residential community perched above the blue Pacific in Cabo San Lucas. Its privately operated desalination plant supplies water to the development, but soon it will do more. Pedregal is set to become the first private desalination facility in Baja California Sur to sell potable water to the public system. Construction is expected to begin in 2024-25 on the infrastructure necessary to connect the existing plant to the municipal network, demonstrating how the public and private sectors can collaborate to address local water needs.

A very different kind of project is taking shape in the city of Fort Bragg on the northern coast of California. The city is piloting a small-scale desalination system powered entirely by ocean waves. The unit, developed by Oneka, a Canadian water technology firm, is tethered offshore and utilizes the motion of waves to generate pressure. That pressure drives seawater through reverse osmosis filters, producing fresh water that’s piped back to shore. The pilot will begin with a single “iceberg-class” unit capable of producing about 50 cubic meters (13,000 gallons) per day. More units can be added to increase capacity as needed. Though modest in scale, the project demonstrates how renewable energy and desalination can be combined to meet local needs.

Thinking beyond the wells, such examples are worth considering for Huatulco, especially since the tourism zone is just eight kilometres long and accounts for a large share of overall water use while inland neighbourhoods face periodic shortages. With the town’s freshwater supply already stretched and the distribution system in need of repair, Huatulco will need to look beyond conventional solutions. Could a small-scale desalination plant focused on the tourism corridor provide the necessary stability to ease shortfalls and support continued growth?

What If?

What if the leaders of Huatulco’s resort development, the all-inclusive hotel operators, and officials from FIDELO (Oaxaca’s state-level development commission), FONATUR and CONAGUA sat down together in the spirit of Mexico’s new National Water Plan, which covers 2024-30? Could they envision a shared solution, such as a small-scale desalination plant serving the tourism zone, that would relieve pressure on the existing water system? Could that, in turn, free up more of the town’s limited freshwater supply for inland neighbourhoods that suffer water shortages? Might it also allow public resources to focus on repairing leaks and upgrading infrastructure rather than drilling more wells?

It wouldn’t solve everything. But it could be a first step, concrete, local, and scalable. And perhaps, if done thoughtfully and transparently, Huatulco could become not just a resort town managing a water crisis but a model for how public and private interests can come together to build a more sustainable and equitable future.

For contact or comment, email: box95jackson@gmail.com.

Huatulco

A Land in Between: The Istmo de Tehuantepec

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By Randy Jackson

If you were to drive east from Huatulco for about two hours, you’d arrive at a narrow neck of land where the Pacific and Atlantic oceans nearly meet. You’ll know you’re there when you see a landscape covered by hundreds of windmills and feel and hear the force of wind as it hurtles against your vehicle. These are the Tehuano Winds, born from the clash of cool northern air spilling down from the Gulf of Mexico and the rising heat of the Pacific. Channeled through the Chivela Pass in the Sierra Madre, they come roaring toward the coast, sometimes with the force of a hurricane.

This region, known as the Istmo de Tehuantepec, is one of the eight distinct regions of Oaxaca, and it’s known for far more than wind. It’s a crossroads in every sense: a cultural crossroads between the heartlands of ancient Mesoamerican civilizations, an ecological crossroads bridging diverse geographical zones, and now, with the Interoceanic Corridor project, a potential crossroads for global trade.

Ecological Crossroads

The Istmo de Tehuantepec is an ecological crossroads. While the southern portions near the Pacific are dry and windswept, the northern reaches include part of Mexico’s largest tropical rainforest, the Selva Zoque, home to much of the nation’s biodiversity. This varied topography also gives rise to pine-oak forests and more than 300 species of native orchids.

The Istmo holds an extraordinary range of ecosystems within this relatively narrow band of land. There are cloud forests in the Sierra Madre, coastal lagoons along the Gulf of Mexico, and everything in between. Its geographic position bridges the flora and fauna of North and Central America, creating a vital migratory and evolutionary corridor where species from different regions meet, interact, and adapt.

Cultural Crossroads

For millennia, the Istmo de Tehuantepec has served as a crossroads between the heartlands of the Mesoamerican civilizations. The first of these civilizations was the Olmec, widely recognized for their iconic colossal stone heads. Their civilization was centred just to the north of the Istmo in the lowlands of the Gulf of Mexico. Later, as the Olmec declined, the Zapotec civilization emerged in the Valley of Oaxaca.

Archaeological finds suggest trade between these two civilizations, with goods like obsidian and jade traversing the Istmo between these two powers. Trade also existed in later times between the Maya civilization, located south and east of the Istmo, and the formidable city-state of Teotihuacán in the valley of Mexico.

Today, the Zapotec are the principal indigenous group of the Istmo, and their identity here is distinct. The Zapotec language in the Istmo differs significantly from the version in the Valley of Oaxaca. There are also cultural differences, such as the matrilineal social structures in the Istmo compared to the more patriarchal structures of the Zapotec of the Valley of Oaxaca. Other indigenous groups in the region of Istmo de Tehuantepec are the Mixe, roughly centred around the area of Matías Romero, and the Huave (they call themselves the Ikoots), located around San Mateo del Mar on the Pacific coast.

Global Crossroads – Mexico’s Interoceanic Corridor

Among the defining projects of former president Andrés Manuel López Obrador (AMLO), the Interoceanic Rail Corridor may turn out to be the most transformative. Beyond the potential benefits to Mexico overall, the state of Oaxaca, particularly the Istmo de Tehuantepec, could develop into an economic engine. Spanning 303 kilometres (188 miles), this rail link connects the Pacific port of Salina Cruz in Oaxaca with the Gulf port of Coatzacoalcos in Veracruz. Its aim is ambitious: to serve as a land-based alternative, or complement, to the Panama Canal, allowing cargo to be offloaded at one coast, transported swiftly across the Istmo, and reloaded on the other side.

The corridor project aims to stimulate industrial growth in southern Mexico through major infrastructure upgrades, chief among them the modernization of the Salina Cruz and Coatzacoalcos seaports. To draw private investment, the federal government plans to establish ten industrial parks along the route, offering tax incentives to companies willing to build and operate there.

The project is well underway. The expanded seaports are already under construction, and the rail line now has limited passenger service between the two coasts. One of the most high-profile developments tied to the corridor came in December 2024, when President Claudia Sheinbaum announced a $10 billion USD green hydrogen facility to be built by Helax, a subsidiary of Copenhagen Infrastructure Partners. Scheduled for completion in 2028, the project signals a push toward sustainable industry in the region.

If fully realized, the Interoceanic Corridor could mark a historic shift in Mexico’s economic geography, channeling investment and opportunity toward the poorer southern states of Oaxaca and Chiapas. The road ahead, however, isn’t without obstacles: land disputes, environmental concerns, and questions about who truly benefits, especially among local Indigenous communities.

For centuries, the Istmo de Tehuantepec has stood at the intersection of movement and change – a crossroads where two oceans, multiple climate zones, and cultures converge. The Istmo continues in its role as a landscape of transition and is now, possibly, a passageway for global trade.

For contact or comment: box95jackson@gmail.com.

Huatulco

Calakmul: A Maya Metropolis Rediscovered

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By Randy Jackson

When thinking about visiting ancient Maya cities, locations like Palenque and Tikal often capture our imagination. Yet one of the largest and most powerful ancient Maya centers remains unfamiliar to many: Calakmul (Kah-lahk-mool), hidden deep within the dense jungles of Campeche near the Guatemalan border. This relatively obscure site dominated the Maya lowlands for centuries until its mysterious abandonment in the 8th and 9th centuries. Swallowed by the jungle for over a thousand years, Calakmul’s towering pyramids and carved monuments now draw the attention of tourists, historians, and anthropologists alike. Though many of its restored structures stand as a testament to a once-thriving civilization, Calakmul today faces new challenges, caught at the intersection of modern development pressures and environmental controversy.

A Short History of Calakmul

Calakmul began as a significant settlement about 300 BCE. It was built on low limestone hills in the lush jungle lowlands. It was surrounded by seasonal marshlands, which its inhabitants engineered into a sophisticated system of 13 water reservoirs. Among these was the largest reservoir in the Maya world, which still exists today.

At its peak, between the 6th and 9th centuries CE, Calakmul exerted considerable control and influence over much of the Maya region, forging alliances and dominating through conquest. For a time, this included control over its formidable rival, Tikal, in what is now Guatemala. Calakmul had over six thousand structures and covered an area of 70 square kilometres (27 square miles). It also had an extensive network of causeways, one of which extended 38 kilometres (24 miles). This network connected most of the cities and settlements of the central and lowlands of the Yucatán. Among its architectural wonders, Calakmul’s main pyramid stands 45 metres (148 feet) tall. Over centuries, Calakmul produced exquisite art, including jade carvings, pottery, and mural paintings, reflecting high craftsmanship and cultural sophistication.

After flourishing for centuries, Calakmul succumbed to the broader patterns of decline that swept through the Maya Civilization. Much has been written about the possible causes of the Maya collapse, which took place around the 8th to 9th centuries. Environmental conditions of prolonged drought and deforestation were a significant underlying cause. Despite its sophisticated network of reservoirs, Calakmul was not immune to more serious ecological degradation and other factors contributing to the overall collapse of the Maya Civilization.

Archaeologists and historians point to several factors that led to the Maya Collapse. Structural changes in society and warfare compounded environmental stresses. Archaeological evidence shows a shift from a society ruled by kings to one ruled by a wider, fractious group of elites in the different Maya centres. This resulted in wars becoming more pervasive and deadly, involving common people in warfare. Previously, warfare was more ritualistic and conducted by a warrior class. Consequently, wars and their effects took men away from other tasks that supported an agricultural-based society. Monuments were no longer being built or maintained, and fields were no longer tended as common people lost faith in a society increasingly disintegrating into chaos and violence. Although the collapse took over a century, one can imagine the poignant image of the last person or family turning one final time to look at Calakmul’s crumbling structures before walking away, leaving the jungle to reclaim it.

Rediscovery and Modern Challenges

Approximately one thousand years later, in 1931, Cyrus Lundell, an American botanist, stumbled on the ruins of Calakmul during a survey looking for stands of the chicozapote tree, which is used in the production of chewing gum. This significant finding began a new era for Calakmul and its surroundings, which had become rich in biodiversity.

The Mexican Revolution had earlier set the stage for land reform, which would one day impact Calakmul. The 1917 constitution, Article 27, introduced ejidos—communal lands that could not be sold but could be worked collectively or individually. Decades later, under Presidents Adolfo López Mateos (1958-1964) and Gustavo Díaz Ordaz (1964-1970), land redistribution based on ejidos was revitalized as part of a broader development and modernization agenda. This land reform impacted Campeche, including the Calakmul area.

Although indigenous people have always lived in this area in smaller numbers, the promise of free land for agriculture attracted landless poor peasants from all over Mexico. Once again, trees were being felled, animals were hunted in larger numbers, and land was cleared for agriculture. The Calakmul environment, once depleted beyond its ability to support the Maya civilization, was then, and is now, again under threat.

In response to the challenges stemming from increasing population, President Carlos Salinas de Gortari (1988-1994) proclaimed the Calakmul Biosphere Reserve, stating that it was to protect the area’s unique biological diversity and numerous ancient Maya ruins. Since this proclamation and a later UNESCO designation, tensions have existed between local campesinos and governmental officials. The campesinos viewed the land as a place to carve out a livelihood, whereas conservationists and government authorities argued for preserving the land in a natural state. Roads and tourist development have exacerbated the issue. In 1991, the campesinos were given responsibility to care for the reserve, and although this has improved some sustainability practices, issues between development and conservation continue. Amid these modern conflicts, the spirits of Calakmul roam the ruins like the howler monkeys.

Visiting Calakmul

The most common route for those wishing to visit Calakmul is driving from Cancún, about 500 km (310 mi) away. Access is through the nearby town of Xpujil, Campeche, a center for numerous nearby ancient Maya ruins. To access Calakmul and the Calakmul Biosphere, there is a signed turnoff from highway 186 near Xpujil. Calakmul is 60 km (37 mi) from highway 186 on a mostly good, but narrow, forested roadway.

At Calakmul, the most significant and central structures have been partially restored, including some of the large pyramids and the acropolis. The site offers captivating Maya ruins that blend into the surrounding jungle, offering a unique experience of discovery and exploration amidst a backdrop of significant biodiversity—a setting befitting such a prominent city of the Maya world that mysteriously disappeared.

For contact and comments, email box95jackson@gmail.com.

Huatulco

The Digital Minefield: Navigating the Complexities of Cryptocurrency

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By Randy Jackson

Historical Context: The Price Revolution

After the Spanish conquest of the Americas in the sixteenth century, gold and silver from the mines of Mexico and Peru flooded Spain and spilled across Europe. As gold and silver were already the currencies of Europe, this dramatically increased the money supply, causing a sustained period of inflation throughout Europe. The economic historian Earl Hamilton named this period “The Price Revolution,” highlighting the ripple effects on prices and economic power structures due to this dramatic shift in currency supply.

From Tangible Value to Fiat: The Evolution of Money

For centuries, the value of money was rooted in tangible commodities like gold and silver. In fact, for much of human history, currency was the value of the actual coin exchanged, often gold, silver, copper, or bronze. Later, and for centuries longer, the value of paper currencies depended on a country’s gold reserves. However, gold-reserve-based currencies limited the ability of governments to control the economy, such as the ability to increase money supply during economic downturns. By the 1970s, governments adopted “fiat” currency – fiat literally means “let it be done,” i.e., a decree, in this case allowing government economic actions and policies, rather than physical gold, establish the value of a country’s currency.

The Rise of Cryptocurrency

Today, cryptocurrency represents a radical shift in understanding, using, and valuing currency. It is a currency that does not depend on minerals or government authority. Instead, its value depends on the trust in the underlying technology, called “blockchain,” and the community consensus of its users; in other words, the value of a cryptocurrency at any moment is the market “sentiment” for that cryptocurrency. Today, hundreds of billions of dollars (US) worth of cryptocurrencies are traded daily. There are many different cryptocurrencies; Bitcoin, Ethereum, and Tether make up the majority of daily trading volumes.

Advantages and Challenges of Decentralization

Cryptocurrency proponents tout decentralization from government and banking institutions as one of its main advantages. Without currency exchange or bank intermediaries, cryptocurrencies can facilitate easier, faster, and cheaper international transactions, making global commerce more accessible. They also present the paradox of user anonymity paired with transparency of transactions. Using blockchain technology, all cryptocurrency transactions are traceable and on a public ledger, but the person or entity behind the transaction is anonymous.

Practical Guide: How to Purchase Cryptocurrency

● Create an account on a cryptocurrency exchange: Start by investigating the most widely used cryptocurrency exchanges; the top three are Coinbase, Binance, and Kraken. To comply with financial regulations, you must register and verify your identity. This typically involves providing your name, address, and a copy of a government-issued ID.

● Deposit Funds: Once you have an account, you can transfer funds from your bank account or use a credit card. Your cryptocurrency exchange account will hold the funds you have transferred. You then have funds available to purchase the cryptocurrency of your choice.

● Make a purchase of cryptocurrency: Once you’ve decided on which cryptocurrency to purchase, you can place an order to buy it, or a fraction of it, depending on its price and the minimum purchase amount on the exchange. Transaction fees will apply. To this point, this process is similar to executing trades on a stock exchange.

● Secure your cryptocurrency with a Wallet: There are two types of cryptocurrency Wallets. Hot Wallets are connected to the Internet, allowing easy access to transactions. Cold Wallets are held separately and are not connected to the internet, often on a USB. This digital wallet does not hold the cryptocurrency but the information that proves ownership and the digital keys (information) needed to enable your interaction with the blockchain holding the cryptocurrency.

Understanding Cryptocurrency Transactions

A cryptocurrency transaction relies on that blockchain technology, which offers a highly secure, transparent, and tamper-proof method of recording transactions across a global network of decentralized computers. The steps detailed above explain how to purchase cryptocurrency. The following (VERY simplified version) describes what happens behind the scenes when blockchain technology performs the purchase transaction.

● Transaction creation: When you place an order to buy (or sell) a cryptocurrency, you are requesting to transfer ownership of a certain amount of cryptocurrency. This transaction includes the sender’s details, the recipient’s wallet address, and the amount to be sent.

● Miner Verification: Your new transaction is pooled with other as-yet unconfirmed transactions to form a block of transactions selected by “miners” for processing. A miner registers the transaction on the blockchain using specialized hardware – ASICs, or Application-Specific Integrated Circuits – designed to mine one and only one type of cryptocurrency. The miner uses the ASIC to solve a unique cryptographic puzzle created by a mathematical algorithm based, in part, on the unique transactions included in the block.

Because miners are rewarded for solving the puzzle with a certain amount of the underlying cryptocurrency, they compete to find a solution. When a miner solves the puzzle, the block of transactions is added to the blockchain as a permanent, unalterable verification of those transactions. The transfer of ownership from seller to buyer is now complete.

Cryptocurrency Mining and Environmental Impact

This description of cryptocurrency mining is extremely basic – the nuances and complexities of the actual mining would just boggle the mind of any cryptocurrency novice. However, you can think of the extensive data-processing centers necessary to run blockchain processes as a type of physical cryptocurrency mines.

Blockchain processes require large amounts of electricity for the computers to solve complex mathematical puzzles needed for blockchain functionality. Additional electricity is also necessary to keep the computers cool. As a result, these cryptocurrency mines are built in areas with low electricity rates and places where less air conditioning is required. However, just as most types of physical mining have a negative impact on the environment, the impact of such digital mining operations on the environment is also a concern.

Conclusion: The Future of Mining and Technology

Today, there are cryptocurrency “mines,” or data processing centers, across Mexico, even as Mexico continues the centuries-old tradition of mining metals from the earth – it’s the world’s top producer of silver, and mines significant quantities of gold, copper, and zinc (see articles on mining elsewhere in this issue). Creating wealth by extracting physical minerals seems fundamentally “normal” when it comes to mining, whereas the wealth created by solving advanced equations of cryptographic puzzles doesn’t line up with our concept of mining at all.

And yet, technology is rapidly changing everything, including our concepts. New technologies like blockchain are innovative and capable of transforming entire industries beyond finance; they have already transformed healthcare, real estate, and how supply chains operate. The nature of blockchain technology ensures that once information is entered, it cannot be altered. This offers a technological platform for benefits far beyond the realm of currency exchange.

For contact and comment, email: box95Jackson@gmail.com.

Huatulco

Stumbling Steps Towards Huatulco’s Pedestrian Corridor

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By Randy Jackson

Two years ago, in an article titled The Saga of Quinta Avenida (5th Avenue), I reported on the decades-long, start-and-stop development of the pedestrian walkway connecting Santa Cruz and La Crucecita. This corridor, signed as Andador Peatonal (Pedestrian Walkway), started as a project under the presidency of Felipe Calderón (2006-12) through the tourism development agency FONATUR (Fondo Nacional de Fomento Turismo). Since that time, some buildings have appeared along the walkway, although none have been completed, as uncertainties have stalled or slowed investments.

Comparison with Other FONATUR Projects
Pedestrian tourist corridors are a standard feature of FONATUR’s other resorts, and exist in Cancun (Playa del Carmen) and Ixtapa. They are all named 5th Avenue after the famous shopping street in New York City. However, starting right out of the development gate, Huatulco’s 5th Avenue faced one challenge the other resorts did not: Huatulco’s walkway climbs a significant hill. Yet in 2020, after FONATUR reconfigured the sizes of the lots, private developers (and likely some are speculators) stepped up to purchase all twenty-four lots available for sale, possibly buying into the notion “If you build it, they will come,” made popular by the 1989 film, Field of Dreams.

Recent Developments and Challenges
That notion may eventually apply to Huatulco’s pedestrian corridor. As of mid-February of this year, there were seven buildings, two of which appear nearly complete. One of these buildings has multiple retail locations with full glass storefronts; the other is a condominium near the sports complex. When sold, the lots had a covenant requiring the owners to complete their development by December 31, 2025, or face financial penalties. Some owners will undoubtedly exceed this period as most lots show no sign of construction.

Parking and Accessibility Issues
The corridor’s development calls for a mix of residential and retail properties, with 30% of the lots intended for hotels. When the corridor is fully developed, it could attract hundreds of daily guests and visitors, raising the question: What about parking? Parking areas have been allocated for each end of the corridor. On the Santa Cruz end, a 7,132 square-meter (almost 77,000 square feet) parking lot will parallel Santa Cruz Boulevard, next to the Pedestrian Corridor entrance. On the La Crucecita end, two separate lots stretching along the road behind the Naval hospital will total 4,927 square meters (over 50,000 square feet). This could allow approximately 150 to 175 parking slots on each end (using an AI model for the calculation). The parking areas are owned and managed by the corridor lot owners’ association, which is also responsible for ensuring security and maintaining the corridor. As of mid-February, no work has been done on the designated lots for parking.

The Present and Future of the Pedestrian Corridor
The pedestrian corridor stretches about 600 meters (about 660 yards) from end to end. It comprises a walking area on both sides of a single-lane service road. On foot, this traffic-free route is about one kilometre shorter than following the roads between Santa Cruz and La Crucecita. Many people now use this shortcut daily. And where pedestrians go, motorcycles can, regardless of the signs prohibiting motor vehicles. Unfortunately, the corridor has already been the scene of one motorcycle fatality.

Financial Viability and Investor Confidence
The surge in development along the corridor that began in 2022 has since stalled, leading to a financial dilemma for investors. For a pedestrian corridor to thrive, sufficient businesses must operate to draw customers. If the number of open businesses falls below this threshold, the financial viability of new stores, restaurants, and accommodations can be precarious until sufficient foot traffic exists. Furthermore, the earliest developments to open may face additional challenges from construction activity needed for subsequent projects, which can reduce pedestrian traffic. This would have been the rationale for having the time limit covenant for the purchasers of the lots. But that didn’t work.

Speculation on Future Developments
One can also speculate on another factor dampening investor ardour: uncertainty. FONATUR is leaving the future development of Huatulco to the State of Oaxaca, while infrastructure improvements are badly needed. Furthermore, two significant tourist assets, the golf course in Tangolunda and the convention center in Chahue, are mired in legal and political muck. How Huatulco’s 5th Avenue will fare in that context is far from certain.

Conclusion
The development of the pedestrian corridor thus languishes. Although many people appreciate the pedestrian route connecting Santa Cruz with La Crucecita, they will have to wait longer for businesses (and hopefully more illumination at night) to line the walkway.

For contact and comment, email: box95jackson@gmail.com

Huatulco

From Sea to Market: The Fishing Industry in Huatulco

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By Randy Jackson

There is one foundational pillar of the economic prosperity of the Huatulco area on which everything rests: the sea. Its beauty, vastness, and potential for recreation are the central reasons for virtually all development here. Yet beneath its glittering surface, the sea is a living, breathing ecosystem – a source of sustenance, inspiration, and balance that has shaped the lives and cultures of people here for millennia. Among its many gifts, the fishing industry stands as both a testament to the sea’s generosity and a reminder of the delicate relationship between human activity and the natural world. A kind of reverence for the sea lies in seeking a deeper understanding of its ecosystem. To that end, I offer some information about the local features of this portion of the Pacific and the fishing industry that depends upon it.

Local Ocean Features

The continental shelf off the coast of Huatulco is relatively narrow, especially when compared to the much broader fishing grounds found further north. It extends about 5 to 10 nautical miles (9 to 18 kilometers) from the shore, whereas the shelf near Mazatlán can stretch as far as 80 to 100 kilometers. The steep drop-off at the edge of the shelf facilitates “upwelling,” a process where deeper, nutrient-rich waters rise to the surface, fostering abundant marine life. This abundance attracts larger fish, which feed on smaller species and create opportunities for local fishermen. The proximity of deep waters to the coast further benefits local fishermen, granting them easier access to rich fishing grounds.

Seasonal ocean currents significantly influence fishing near Huatulco. The Costa Rica Coastal Current, most active from November to May, brings nutrient-rich waters that enhance fish abundance during fishing seasons. In contrast, the North Equatorial Countercurrent introduces warmer, nutrient-poor waters from June to October, shifting species availability and fishing patterns. Other currents, while less direct, can also impact local conditions. Additionally, large-scale climate phenomena like El Niño, which warms ocean waters, and La Niña, which cools them, further amplify variability, adding unpredictability to fishing conditions for local fishermen.

Puerto Ángel is the primary fishing port in the region. Located approximately 60 km (37 miles) west of Huatulco, it lies near the western boundary of the Gulf of Tehuantepec. This area marks a transition between the open Pacific coast of Oaxaca and the waters of the Gulf of Tehuantepec. The convergence of these two ocean ecosystems fosters rich biodiversity and supports highly productive fishing grounds.

Fishing Regulations

Mexico’s fishing industry is federally regulated. CONAPESCA (Comisión Nacional de Acuacultura y Pesca) is the agency responsible for licensing, regulating, monitoring, and promoting aquaculture and the fishing industry. Overall, there are two general categories of fishing licenses: large and small vessels. Small vessels (less than 10 meters) dominate the local fishing industry near Huatulco. Although there are regulations that cover the smaller boats, there is virtually no enforcement of any regulations for these vessels on the Oaxacan Coast. CONAPESCA has one inspector to cover the contiguous coasts of Guerrero, Oaxaca, and Chiapas, a shoreline of about 1,400 kilometers. There is closer monitoring of the larger fishing vessels. However, only a small number of these vessels operate in Oaxacan waters, primarily commercial shrimp and shark boats operating out of Salina Cruz.

I could not determine the number of small fishing vessels operating in the Huatulco area. CONAPESCA reported 2,097 licensed smaller boats on the Oaxacan coast in 2023. However, there are significant numbers of unlicensed vessels, and subsistence fishing is allowed without a license. It is safe to say that most smaller vessels (pangas) fishing off the coast of Huatulco and more broadly in Oaxaca are not licensed and do not report their catch.

The Huatulco Fish Market

There is no central market for fish in Huatulco. Instead, small independent fishermen from various locations along the coast sell their catch directly or through intermediaries. Local buyers include small stores that sell both local and imported fish and seafood, as well as a variety of restaurants. While some stores and restaurants maintain direct relationships with individual fishermen, most transactions involve middlemen. These intermediaries are sometimes referred to as “coyotes,” a term that can carry a derogatory connotation but often does not reflect the services they provide. Middlemen act as ready cash buyers for fishermen. They also represent reliable suppliers for buyers by working with a diverse network of fishermen. Additionally, they sometimes offer loans to fishermen and credit to buyers, thus playing an important role in the local fishing economy.

The people selling fish from coolers along the street in La Crucecita are usually not fishermen. Like local street sellers of many things, these vendors are trying to make a living by buying fish from middlemen and reselling for a profit. This shouldn’t dissuade anyone from buying from these vendors as it supports their livelihood and can be a convenient way to buy fish and seafood.

Current Fishing Conditions

With the plethora of oceanic variables, it is difficult to determine why fishing in the Huatulco area is poor this year. The water, for whatever reason, is warmer, not favoring a productive fishery, particularly for dorado (mahi mahi) and tuna. Fishermen have been forced to go much farther from shore to try their luck, up to 20 – 30 kilometers, making fishing more expensive, time-consuming, and risky.

Sustainability Efforts

Despite the challenges of overfishing and lack of enforcement facing the local fishing industry, some efforts are being made towards the sustainability of the fishery. In some cases, a group of local fishermen have initiated actions to move from net to hook fishing and for fishermen to agree to restrict the catch of some species to a specific calendar period. The region’s extraordinary marine biodiversity highlights the importance of such efforts. Huatulco’s waters are part of a migration route for humpback whales, sea turtles, and other species, offering a reminder of the interconnectedness and abundance of marine life. These seasonal migrations and the area’s rich ecosystems highlight the need to balance human activity with conservation to ensure the sea’s enduring abundance.