SMA Writers’ Conference & Literary Festival: Holding the Megaphone

By Estefanía Camacho

The writer Margaret Atwood (1939), widely recognized for her work in speculative fiction and for her dystopian novel turned into a film and television series, The Handmaid’s Tale, said she has never quite understood why Elon Musk, the owner of SpaceX, is making so much money. “You’re not ever going to live on Mars. I’m here to tell you,” the Canadian author said, prompting laughter during the closing keynote of the 21st San Miguel Writers’ Conference & Literary Festival.

Approximately 1,750 people attended the event, about 250 more than in 2025, enjoying four days of stimulating talks alongside morning yoga and writing sessions. From February 11 to 15, participants learned how to write memoir, poetry, short stories, crime fiction, and how to give voice to characters, guided by internationally renowned speakers such as Jennifer Clement, Elizabeth Santiago, Susan Brown, and Sandra Cisneros, the multi-award-winning recipient of the PEN America Literary Award. Sessions were held in tents spread across the grounds of the Hotel Real de Minas, a six-minute walk from the warm, radiant historic center of San Miguel de Allende.

Maira Kalman, Sandra Cisneros, and Yásnaya Aguilar
The acclaimed keynote lectures were among the most anticipated moments of the afternoon, with the conference opening on Wednesday, February 11, led by Abraham Verghese. At certain times, other roundtable discussions opened space for dialogue on a range of topics, with artificial intelligence emerging as a particularly popular theme.

On the second day, Maira Kalman (1949) spoke about her book Women Holding Things (2022). She explained how the project began during the pandemic. “What do women hold? The home and the family and the children and the food, the friendships, the work, the work of the world and the work of being human, the memories and the troubles and the sorrows and the triumphs and the love. Men do as well, but…” she recited emotionally. Kalman reflected on care, beauty, and the quiet persistence of daily work, arguing that in moments of collective anxiety, the most radical acts may simply be to keep working, notice beauty, and help those who need it.

Later that afternoon, Sandra Cisneros and Yásnaya Aguilar Gil, the Mixe writer from Oaxaca, led a close conversation in Spanish with a small group of attendees. Cisneros confessed how she thought she’d speak more with Mexicans since the first time she attended the festival, but realized it was mainly for English language speakers. “So we want these programs to include the Mexican community, to decolonize it, but we have to figure out a way for them to be free, truly free for the Mexican public,” she said, although this year some workshops were held in Spanish and offered to teenagers as well.

Yásnaya reflected on the panel’s theme of activism and literature, emphasizing that activism does not always look like constant resistance. Sometimes, she said, it looks like resting –and that does not mean abandoning the struggle. “When my community appointed me as a spokesperson in defense of water, I had my grandmother and many others who would have coffee and food waiting for me when I returned from assemblies. There is no such thing as heroic individual activism. It is sustained by the work of many.”

Cisneros also addressed the fact that right-wing religious groups have called for her book The House on Mango Street –now 42 years since its publication– to be removed from school programs. “They haven’t targeted my book specifically. It’s not that they chose only me,” she said, switching seamlessly between English and Spanish. “So I don’t take it personally. And I’m sure they haven’t read my book. The good thing is, they give me great publicity.”

Rebecca Kuang: A Call to Let Go of Nostalgia
As the afternoon progressed, excitement built for another highly anticipated keynote. The room erupted into thunderous applause as New York Times bestselling author Rebecca Kuang (1996), better known as R.F. Kuang took the stage. Young, with a soft, slightly high-pitched voice, she delivered a message in a tone so gentle it felt hypnotic.

Speaking about her novel Babel, or The Necessity of Violence: An Arcane History of the Oxford Translators’ Revolution which draws parallels between a fantastic world and the reality of pursuing an academic degree. Kuang argued that one must break the illusion.

She went on to discuss the three myths that we cling to about the university: first, that academia is a pathway to upward socioeconomic mobility; second, that it is meritocratic; and third, that it is a site of free speech and political resistance. “I’ll argue all of these myths are false. They don’t describe any American university that exists. Indeed, they don’t even describe any university that existed in the past. We’re defending a nostalgic vision of that which never was.”

The audience listened, stunned, but engaged. With no guarantee that a college degree will lead to a well-paying job, she added, “These kids do not have the leisure to read Homer because they need that perfect transcript.” suggested Kuang and asked to extend more empathy toward students navigating precarity, including those who turn to AI out of desperation rather than laziness. The line earned vigorous applause.

Kuang did not leave the audience without answers. She proposed honoring forms of knowledge-sharing outside formal degree programs, just as much as we honor twelve sleepy undergrads. She praised adult learners as some of the best students and explained that she also offers a creative writing workshop for her community much like the one she teaches at Yale, with the costs partially contributing to a fund for children in Palestine. The audience rose in a standing ovation.

Day 3: Oral Tradition and the Written Word
The following day, Yásnaya Aguilar opened her lecture first in Mixe and then in Spanish, with interpretation provided for some attendees. She explained that literature is only one of the many possibilities encompassed by the poetic function of language. For her, it is not a problem that Mixe oral narratives are not validated as “literature,” since that label applies specifically to works produced within the Western tradition. “Mixe oral tradition narratives are not literature, and that’s not a bad thing. They are, however, a clear example of how the poetic function is exercised in this language.”
She emphasized that a community’s tradition of memory is collective, likening it to jazz. “While there is a shared structure, each performer of the memory tradition will execute it differently.”

That same afternoon, the lecture by Argentine writer Andrés Neuman (1977) felt like a direct dialogue with Yásnaya’s talk. With hints of stand-up comedy despite the seriousness of his ideas, Neuman demonstrated that the universal language of laughter requires no translation. He recalled how his grandmother kept to herself the fact that she used to be a translator from Yiddish into Spanish. Then he also spoke tenderly about documenting his child’s first words and early sentences. “We don’t remember, astonishingly, learning how to speak. And I suspect literature exists because of that gap. Poetry, in particular, exists as an attempt to remember that once we didn’t know how to speak, and we tried.”

Neuman also described his fascination with the life of María Moliner, the avant-garde librarian who single-handedly produced the most comprehensive dictionary of Spanish, which inspired his novel Until It Begins to Shine (2025).

That evening, three teenage writers were recognized among 70 students from Guanajuato who had attended workshops to write short stories. The moment deeply moved Neuman, who sees this kind of care as central to his idea of literature: caring for thought, and thinking about care. “That’s what festivals like this do,” he said.

Day 5: Margaret Atwood, Memory, and Times of Turmoil
The festival closed with Margaret Atwood, who reflected on memory, protest, and political instability following the publication of her 2025 memoir, Book of Lives: A Memoir of Sorts. In a conversational keynote, Atwood revisited moments, repeating an interesting advice she provides in her book to “hang on to the megaphone” recounting how she once went for a walk with a friend then joined an anti–Vietnam War march. “We marched to the Boston Common, where the American Nazi Party took away our megaphone… So hang on to the megaphone. Don’t let them Nazis take it away from you.”

She also recalled a public event in Montreal where, during a Q&A session, someone asked whether The Handmaid’s Tale was autobiographical. “And I said, ‘No, it isn’t.’ And he said, ‘Yes it is.’ And I said, ‘No, it isn’t, it’s set in the future.’ And he said, ‘That’s no excuse.’ In a way, he was right, because anything you write goes through your head. Of course, the experiences you’ve had, the people you’ve met, the places you’ve lived: all of that comes in handy one way or another.”

Finally, and after questioning Musk’s wealth, despite acknowledging a time of turmoil and change that is not entirely under our control yet deeply affects us, Atwood expressed hope. She argued that while this may not be the worst moment in history, it does make us more aware of what we once took for granted, including a supposed Pax Americana, that seems to be crumbling. “We have to make it clear that this is not a problem of peoples; it’s a problem with an administration,” she said, touching her pacemaker to tell the audience to “Keep your nerve, and keep good relations wherever you can.”

Estefanía Camacho is a freelance Mexican journalist working across media and digital magazines. She is a specialist in gender, SMEs, economics, and business.

http://www.sanmiguelwritersconference.org

 

Could Simply Moving to Mexico Be Considered “Health Care”?

By Kary Vannice—

Every year, people pack up their lives and move somewhere else in search of something …undefinable. It’s not about the weather or the money, and despite what friends back home may think, it is not even about running away from responsibility. For most, it’s simply about wanting life to feel different…better.

And modern research backs this up. There’s even a term for it: lifestyle migration.

Sociologist Michaela Benson describes it as the movement of people who are not forced to relocate for work or safety, but who are “searching for a better way of life.” And that phrase comes up again and again in studies of first-world citizens who move to places like Mexico, Costa Rica, Thailand and many other developing countries.

But does changing countries actually change anything internally? According to research, it certainly changes things energetically.

Psychologists Judith Rodin and Ellen Langer have spent decades researching what they call “perceived control.” Their studies show that people who feel they have more influence over their daily lives experience less stress, better health, and even live longer. Their work suggests it’s not simply what happens to us that matters, it’s whether we feel we are in control or being controlled.

The Journal of Happiness Studies found that agency, a sense of directing one’s own life, is consistently linked to higher life satisfaction across almost every country studied. In other words, feeling in charge of your day-to-day life matters, a lot.

When someone relocates, the move itself doesn’t magically solve all their problems, but it does force them to redesign their way of life. They’re now living in an environment with different bureaucracies, different expectations, different cultural rhythms, and different definitions of success. As a foreigner, they experience the unique freedom of not having grown up inside the existing structure, so they no longer feel bound to it.

Researchers looking at stress physiology use another term, “allostatic load,” defined as the cumulative physical, mental, and emotional “wear and tear” from chronic, repeated, or prolonged stress exposure. Neuroscientist Bruce McEwen, writing in the New England Journal of Medicine, showed how long-term stress responses become embedded in the body, affecting cardiovascular, metabolic, and emotional health. leading to long-term health problems as one ages.

These stress responses are not just triggered by traumatic events. Most come from constant low-level demands, time pressure, competition, and unpredictability in the surrounding environment.

Another study published in Psychological Science showed that people report greater well-being when their personal values align with the norms of the society they live in. Not feeling aligned with the current political climate, for example, can cause a persistent sense of friction and emotional discord.

Relocation can reduce that friction. Not because the new location is necessarily better, but because it aligns more with one’s personal values and lifestyle choices.

In her study Lifestyle Migration and the Quest for a Better Way of Life, researcher Karen O’Reilly documented how participants talked about wanting “time,” “space,” and “control over everyday living” rather than material gain. This is what prompted many of them to move from their country of origin. They described their decision to relocate less as an escape and more as a recalibration.

Of course, living abroad also poses challenges such as language, bureaucracy, and adapting to new cultural norms. But these types of challenges also carry unexpected health benefits. Manageable stress, the kind that comes from learning, problem-solving, and navigating new situations, can build resilience and cognitive flexibility. Unlike the draining stress of constant pressure, these kinds of challenges engage the brain, encourage social connection, and create a sense of accomplishment. Figuring out how to open a bank account in another language or navigate a new governmental system may be frustrating in the moment, but it also fosters confidence, adaptability, and a sense of autonomy in daily life.

If you strip away the romantic ideals of living abroad, you start to see that changing countries often changes how we feel about ourselves and our lives. For many, it fosters a more calm, centered, and grounded sense of self and personal agency. Both of which have long-term positive health benefits and can contribute to living longer.

So, could relocating be one of the best things you do for your mental and emotional health?

Not so much because of the new country itself, but because you stepped outside of the patterns and systems that once defined you. In this case, well-being has less to do with where you land and more to do with what you leave behind. A new environment invites an opportunity to live in a new way, and for many, life no longer feels like something that happens to them by default, but more like something they are creating with intention.

Kary Vannice is a writer and energetic healer who explores the intersections of culture, consciousness, and daily life in Mexico.

Healthy and delicious dining in San Miguel

By Michael Solof

San Miguel de Allende isn’t just about the colorful buildings and lively streets—it’s turning into a solid spot for healthy eating too. More folks are paying attention to what they eat, and the restaurants here have stepped up with fresh ingredients and menus that work for different diets. Whether you’re vegan, avoiding gluten, or just want something lighter, there are excellent choices available around town.

Spots range from laid-back to a bit more polished, so you might find yourself eating in a quiet garden, on a sunny patio, or at a shared table where the vibe feels easy and welcoming. Here are a few standouts for healthy dining in San Miguel de Allende. Each one has its own style but sticks to quality ingredients so the food not only tastes good but is also good for you. Locals and visitors alike keep coming back to these places time and time again for a reason.

RUSTICA – Salida a Celaya 34
Everyday 8am – 5pm

Rustica is one of those places that gets healthy eating right. I went for the breakfast bowl and lentil soup last time, and both were full of flavor without any heavy seasoning. They let the ingredients do the talking, which is nice. The green juice was fresh and gave me a good boost to start the day.

The space feels calm from the second you walk in—like a quiet garden with all sorts of beautiful plants around. The front patio is fine even if you’re near the street, but the back one is especially nice when the weather cooperates. It’s peaceful without being too isolated. The staff is friendly and on top of things. They make you feel at home right away and are great at keeping everything running smooth and relaxed.

They have plenty of plant-based and gluten-free dishes, and you see people ordering breakfast tacos or smoothies that look just as fresh. The menu covers a lot, from breakfast sandwiches to mole eggs, and prices stay reasonable for the quality. It’s easy to understand why this spot stays busy. If you’re after a healthy breakfast or lunch in a chill setting, Rustica is a reliable pick. It’s definitely one of my favorite places to take visitors.

NÉCTAR – Correo 43
Wednesday-Sunday 8:30-4:30pm

Nectar has become a popular hot spot for people looking for healthy meals. The place mixes a cozy indoor area with loads of beautiful artwork, with a nice outdoor patio, so it feels inviting no matter where you sit. The menu works for vegetarians, vegans, and anyone gluten-free. I liked the roasted vegetable omelette—it came with delicious potatoes on the side—and the mini tamales were a fun, satisfying option. They do creative things like Earl Grey-infused black beans or chilaquiles with sesame, keeping things lighter but still tasty. Desserts like chocolate cake are worth saving room for, and portions are generous.

The helpful staff will suggest dishes if you need ideas. They‘ve never made a bad suggestion in all the times I’ve visited. While you wait, you can check out the gift shop with home decor and glass hummingbird feeders. It adds a little extra to the visit.

Nectar is about the whole experience: solid food, a relaxed spot, and friendly people. It’s great for breakfast or lunch, and it quickly becomes one of those places you’ll want to revisit again and again.

OJO DE AGUA – The Corner of Correo and Portal de Guadalupe, near the Jardin – hours vary, check locally.

Ojo de Agua sits close to the Parroquia and Jardin, making it an easy stop when you’re out walking. The inner courtyard is a peaceful break from the bustle, with plants, swinging hammocks and nature sounds all around.

The menu focuses on fresh, simple dishes. I had chilaquiles and avocado toast, both made with really good ingredients that let the flavors stand out. Friends tried the matcha tea cakes with ricotta, and tuna tacos—everything came out perfectly. They have lots of vegan-friendly and lighter options, plus made-to-order juices and smoothies. It’s one of the best juice places in SMA!

The quesadillas are another solid choice, showing how they turn basic ingredients into something filling. The garden seating, including swings, gives it a fun, relaxed feel. It’s a good place to settle in for breakfast or lunch without being rushed. It’s worth stopping by if you’re nearby and want something wholesome.

DON TACO TEQUILA – Calle Dr Ignacio Hernandez Macias 83 Everyday 2pm -10 pm

Don Taco Tequila does fully vegan Mexican food in a way that works even if you’re not usually vegan. The dishes feel hearty and creative. Some favorites are the corn ribs, tequila nachos, and tacos like chicharrito (vegan chicharrón style), mayahuel in lettuce wraps, baja, and spicy chorizo. Vegan staples are in plentiful supply there and they use lots of vegetables, grains, legumes, mushrooms, and avocado, so the meals are nutritious without a single animal product in sight. The mushroom quesadilla has a nice texture that feels close to meat but stays plant-based. There’s also a spinach and quinoa salad with roasted tomatoes and agave-sesame dressing, or quesabirria for that classic flavor.

They also serve a tasty selection of all sorts of drinks including ginger lemonade, Jamaica options, and cocktails like the Jamaica mezcal margarita. Many folks go there just for the drinks; they are that good!

I talked with Hernando, the owner, during my visit. He’s been vegetarian his whole life, even though he grew up in northern Mexico where carne asada was everywhere. He opened Don Taco Tequila in 2012 believing tacos could be a base for more refined Mexican flavors. The restaurant slowly evolved into being fully vegan, and he’s proud of helping people try cruelty-free food without feeling like they’re missing out.

He feels the main challenge he faces is the word “vegan” which sometimes turns people off, but changing people’s minds and seeing his customers enjoy his food, year after year is the best part of his job. Dishes like the Bigotes taco and Mushroom Mixote show how simple ingredients can make a complete, flavorful meal. Hernando says the real draw is the atmosphere there, and everyone from staff to customers adds to the positive energy that pervades the place. Food, he says, brings people together and he loves providing that chance.

As you check out these healthy spots in San Miguel de Allende, it’s clear you don’t have to give up great taste to eat well. And all these restaurants use fresh ingredients and create welcoming spaces where you can relax and enjoy. It makes every meal feel like a small but wonderful discovery. So, whether you’re after a big meal or just something super refreshing like a delicious salad, soup, fresh juice, or smoothie. There’s something available for every type of tasty and dietary desire.

Healthy eating in SMA can be both easy to find and incredibly enjoyable. Ya just gotta get off the couch!

Michael Solof leads SMA Adventure Hound, a group which takes locals and newcomers to brunches and dinners at different restaurants every week and he also offers classes in the art of smartphone photography. You can contact him at WhatsApp +1-443-310-9214 for more info and to reserve.

Marihuana in Mexico

By Julie Etra—

The history of marijuana—known in Mexico as marihuana or colloquially as mota—its cultivation, regulation, and use as a drug, became indelibly tied to its neighbor to the north, the United States of America.

Origins in New Spain
Cannabis seeds were first introduced to Chile, Peru, and Mexico in the 16th century by the Spanish, most notably Hernán Cortés, who promoted its cultivation for fiber production. What we now call hemp was then known as cáñamo. Its use was already widespread in Spain, a legacy of Moorish agricultural practices dating back to the early medieval period.

Although hemp and marijuana share the scientific name Cannabis sativa, hemp contains very low levels of tetrahydrocannabinol (THC)—typically less than 1%—and therefore has no intoxicating effects. Marijuana, by contrast, has been selectively bred for decades to enhance psychoactive properties.

Cáñamo has long had multiple commercial uses, including textiles, rope, and soap. It is easily distinguished from marijuana plants: hemp grows taller, often reaching up to five meters, and expends its nutrients on vegetative growth rather than seed production. In marijuana cultivation, male plants are removed to prevent pollination of the females, which increases the potency of the flowering tops.

Early Uses in Mexico
In Mexico, cannabis use evolved from medicinal and religious applications into recreational use. At the time of the Spanish conquest, Indigenous peoples were already familiar with a variety of psychoactive plants, including psilocybin mushrooms, peyote (a mescaline-containing cactus), tolóache (Datura species), and picietl, a form of wild tobacco.

By the 16th century, cannabis preparations were reportedly used to treat gonorrhea, regulate menstrual cycles, and relieve muscle and dental pain.

One of the earliest prohibitions came on July 4, 1882, when President Porfirio Díaz issued a decree banning the sale of the plant known as “Rosa María,” identified as marijuana.

Marijuana as a Drug
By the early 20th century, marijuana use had become common in Mexico, including among revolutionary troops. Its presence in popular culture is reflected in the Mexican version of the folk song La Cucaracha, popularized during the Revolution (1910–1920). The well-known chorus humorously refers to a cockroach unable to walk because it lacks marijuana to smoke.

Regulation and U.S. Influence
Marijuana was first officially prohibited nationwide in Mexico in 1920 under President Venustiano Carranza through regulations targeting substances considered harmful to the population. At the time, opium—introduced largely by Chinese immigrants—was viewed as the more pressing concern.

Cannabis consumption migrated northward as Mexican laborers crossed into the United States in the early 20th century. Combined with alcohol Prohibition (1920–1933) and the economic hardships of the Great Depression, this contributed to a thriving illicit border economy and rising anti-Mexican sentiment.

In the United States, sensationalist propaganda portrayed marijuana as a dangerous drug associated with crime, violence, and moral decay. The so-called “Reefer Madness” era stigmatized both the plant and Mexican immigrants, helping to justify strict criminalization.

Restrictions on cannabis began appearing in some U.S. states as early as the late 19th century. A major nationwide campaign was launched in the 1930s by Harry J. Anslinger, the first commissioner of the Federal Bureau of Narcotics, whose efforts culminated in federal prohibition. The Spanish term “marihuana” itself was deliberately emphasized to reinforce its association with Mexico.

The Counterculture Era and Rising Demand
Demand increased dramatically in the 1960s and 1970s, fueled by the counterculture movement. Marijuana became associated with antiwar protests, civil rights activism, sexual liberation, and a rapidly changing music scene. Much of the cannabis consumed in the United States originated in Mexico, particularly from the states of Chiapas, Guerrero, Nayarit, Michoacán, Oaxaca, and Sinaloa.

Tensions between the two countries escalated. In 1969, President Richard Nixon launched Operation Intercept, imposing intensive inspections on vehicles crossing the border from Mexico. In 1971, he formally declared the “War on Drugs.”
Aerial herbicide spraying campaigns in the late 1970s aimed to eradicate marijuana crops. Instead, production shifted toward larger, more organized operations increasingly controlled by criminal groups.

Rise of Cartels
The 1980s saw the emergence of powerful drug cartels, notably the Guadalajara cartel led by Miguel Ángel Félix Gallardo. The organization expanded into cocaine trafficking from Colombia. The 1985 kidnapping and murder of U.S. DEA agent Enrique “Kiki” Camarena triggered a major crackdown but also ushered in decades of violence as competing groups fought for control of territory and trafficking routes.

Gradual Decriminalization
Beginning in the early 2000s, Mexico embarked on a slow path toward decriminalization. President Vicente Fox initially supported strict enforcement but later advocated reform as a strategy to weaken organized crime. In 2009, possession of small quantities for personal use was decriminalized.

Medical cannabis was legalized nationwide in 2017, influenced in part by the case of an eight-year-old girl, Graciela Elizalde, whose severe epilepsy responded to cannabis-derived treatment.

In 2021, Mexico’s Supreme Court declared the prohibition of recreational cannabis unconstitutional, effectively legalizing personal use. However, a comprehensive regulatory framework for commercial production and sales has yet to be fully implemented.

Current Policies in Mexico
Adults over 18 may possess up to 28 grams of cannabis in public for personal use. Smoking in public spaces remains restricted, and legal commercial sales—such as dispensaries common in parts of the United States—have not yet been fully established nationwide.

Edibles and cannabis products may circulate informally in some tourist areas, but their legal status remains uncertain. Commercial sale to tourists is illegal.

As of January 2026, Mexico has also banned the importation, sale, and marketing of vaping devices and e-cigarettes, though enforcement varies widely.

Travelers should carry prescription medications in original labeled containers. Some medications that require prescriptions in the United States are available over the counter in Mexico, including high-dose ibuprofen and certain antibiotics.

Cannabis Laws in Mexico:
What Visitors Should Know (2026)

Mexico has decriminalized personal cannabis use, but the legal framework remains complex and enforcement can vary. Visitors should exercise caution and discretion.

✔ Possession (Personal Use)
Adults 18 and over may possess up to 28 grams (about one ounce) of cannabis for personal use. Possession above this amount can result in fines or criminal charges.

✔ Private Use
Consumption is generally permitted in private residences. Property owners, hotels, and rental hosts may prohibit smoking on their premises.

✖ Public Consumption
Smoking cannabis in public places is illegal, including streets, beaches, parks, restaurants, and hotel common areas. Enforcement varies by location, but fines or detention are possible.

✖ Commercial Sales
Legal retail dispensaries like those in parts of the United States or Canada do not yet operate nationwide. Buying cannabis remains legally ambiguous and may expose buyers to illegal markets.

✖ Sales to Tourists
Selling cannabis to tourists is illegal.

✔ Medical Use
Medical cannabis is legal with proper authorization, though access remains limited.

✖ Importing Cannabis
Bringing cannabis into Mexico — even small amounts — is illegal, regardless of whether it was legally purchased elsewhere.

✖ Vapes and e-Cigarettes
As of January 2026, the importation, sale, and marketing of vaping devices and e-cigarettes are prohibited in Mexico.

✔ Prescription Medications
Travelers should carry medications in original labeled containers. Some drugs that require prescriptions in other countries may be available over the counter in Mexico, but regulations differ.

 

Why Oaxaca Is One of the Most Fascinating Cuisines in the World

By Alicia Flores—

Travelers often arrive in Oaxaca, Mexico expecting tacos and margaritas. What they discover instead is one of the most intricate and culturally rich cuisines on earth.

Oaxacan cooking is not simply a collection of recipes; it is a living expression of geography, agriculture, and tradition. Corn, chile, cacao, herbs, seeds, and seasonal ingredients combine in ways that have evolved over centuries. Many techniques still used today predate the arrival of the Spanish.

At the heart of this cuisine is corn.

For thousands of years, Indigenous communities across Mexico have cultivated and refined maize varieties adapted to different climates and soils. The process of nixtamalization—soaking corn in an alkaline solution before grinding it into masa—is a technological achievement that transformed corn into a nutritionally complete food.

From this simple ingredient comes the tortilla, the foundation of daily life throughout Mexico.

Visitors are often surprised by how different a handmade tortilla tastes compared with the versions they may know from supermarkets. Fresh masa, pressed and cooked on a hot comal, produces tortillas that puff slightly as they cook, releasing a warm aroma of toasted corn.

It is a small moment that reveals just how deeply food and culture are intertwined.

Another hallmark of Oaxacan cuisine is mole. These complex sauces can contain dozens of ingredients—various chiles, seeds, spices, chocolate, and nuts—slowly toasted and blended into a deeply layered flavor profile. Every region and family has its own variation, and recipes are often passed down through generations.

Sourcing food play an essential role in the culinary landscape. A walk through the street of Huatulco reveals mountains of chiles, fresh herbs, cacao beans, cheeses, tropical fruits, and handmade tortillas. Cooking here begins with the ingredients themselves.

For travelers who want to understand these traditions more deeply, cooking classes can offer an extraordinary window into local culture. Learning how ingredients are prepared, how flavors are balanced, and how techniques have evolved over centuries brings the cuisine to life in a way that simply eating at restaurants cannot.

Food becomes a story.

In Huatulco,  cooking experiences give visitors the chance to explore this culinary heritage firsthand—preparing traditional dishes, learning about regional ingredients, and discovering why Oaxaca has earned a reputation as one of Mexico’s great gastronomic destinations.

Those curious to explore further can learn more about the experience offered by Chiles and Chocolate Cooking Classes, where guests dive into the history of Oaxacan cooking through hands-on preparation and discussion of the ingredients and traditions that define the cuisine.

Discover Oaxacan Cooking in Huatulco

For travelers who want to go beyond restaurant dining and truly understand the ingredients and traditions behind Oaxacan cuisine, hands-on cooking classes offer a unique perspective.

In Huatulco, Chiles and Chocolate Cooking Classes, led by Chef Jane Bauer, invite guests into the kitchen to explore the foundations of Mexican cooking. Participants learn about regional ingredients, traditional techniques, and the cultural stories that shape the cuisine of Oaxaca.

The cooking studio has eight stations which allows everyone to take part in the preparation of several dishes while discussing the role of corn, chiles, cacao, and other essential ingredients in Mexican food traditions.

By the end of the experience, guests leave not only with recipes but with a deeper understanding of why Oaxaca is considered one of the most important culinary regions in Mexico.

Classes run regularly in Huatulco and advance booking is recommended.

Learn more or reserve a spot here: http://www.huatulcofoodtours.com

Alicia Flores writes about food, culture, and travel in southern Mexico. She is particularly interested in traditional ingredients and the culinary heritage of Oaxaca.

Medical School in Mexico: An Option for US and Canadian Students?

By Marcia Chaiken and Jan Chaiken—

Several decades ago, we met American students attending the Universidad Autónoma de Guadalajara (UAG) School of Medicine waiting in line at La Chata – an ever-popular restaurant in the city center worth the wait. We chatted as the line inched forward and agreed to be seated together when we reached the front. We were surprised that the students were conversant in Spanish but definitely not fluent and wondered how they were able to understand their med school lectures. They explained that the UAG program was developed primarily for US students, with many courses in English and coordinated with hospitals in the US for clinical rotations. We assumed their decision to attend UAG was motivated by the beauty and rich cultural opportunities in Guadalajara.

Years later, we had closely watched our oldest granddaughter, youngest niece, and cousins’ kids negotiate the lengthy process of applying to US undergraduate schools that have high acceptance rates for med schools, then applying to outstanding med schools, and then seeking a “match” for residency in a specialized field. We frankly wondered if UAG and similar med schools in Mexico would have provided an easier option for aspiring MDs who wanted to practice eventually north of the border.

Medical school acceptance rates in Canada are extremely competitive. There are 18 accredited medical schools in the country – of which 7 are in Ontario. The overall acceptance rate is under 15%. The acceptance rate is even lower for applicants who live out of province – about 5%

While there are about 160 accredited med schools in the US that grant MD degrees, competition is still fierce. Fewer than 50% of applicants are accepted each year: the med school that our granddaughter attended accepts under 3% of applicants each year. At her white-coat ceremony at the beginning of her first year, the dean of students pointed out that all the newly inducted students and many other applicants met the basic criteria for acceptance: very high undergraduate grades, very high Medical College Admission Test (MCAT) scores, and extracurricular activities involving medical proficiency. But the reason they were selected was because all of them demonstrated a very high level of compassion for others.

Mexico, with 151 med schools, has slightly fewer than the US. The acceptance rates vary significantly between the public medical schools and the private ones in Mexico. The highly prestigious public Universidad Nacional Autonoma de Mexico (UNAM) accepts fewer than 2% of medical school applicants. Universidad Autonoma de Nuevo Leon (UANL), which some say is second to UNAM in prestige, is less competitive but still rejects close to 90% of applicants. Some of the top-tier private medical schools with classes in English, such as the Universidad de Monterrey, are equally as competitive. Whereas the private UAG accepts about 43% of applicants, other private universities have developed more inclusive programs leading to medical degrees that are frankly aimed at attracting English-speaking students from north of the border. Anahuac University has such a program in Cancun which accepts about 60% of applicants. Xochicalco School of Medicine has campuses near the US border and accepts over 80% of applicants.

In general, students north of the border who have not been accepted at a medical school of their choice in their home country do have opportunities to study in a medical program in Mexico. But realistically they are highly unlikely to be accepted in one of the most prestigious medical schools in Mexico. Their best chance appears to be one of the programs that have been established to educate students from the US and Canada.

Another barrier to medical education north of the border is cost. In the US by 2024, four years of tuition, fees, and living expenses generally cost between $250,000 and $400,000. Tuition each year alone in US medical schools two years ago cost between $42,000 and $67,000, depending on whether the school was public or private and the region of the country. Tuition in Canada is generally significantly lower for Canadian residents, ranging from $4000 to over $25,000 – but the annual fee for foreign students can reach between $90,000 and $100,000 (Canadian dollars). Tuition in the prestigious public medical schools in Mexico are essentially symbolic and remarkably low for Mexican citizens, for example at UNAM under $30 (US dollars) per year. But foreign students attending the programs in Mexico developed to serve English speakers can expect to pay fees comparable to US medical school tuition – about $36,000 for the first years of in-class basic sciences teaching to $59,000 a year for clinical years spent in Mexico and over $80,000 a year for clinical years with rotations in the US.

Although cost of living in Mexico is reputedly much lower than in the US and Canada, as recent US and Canadian temporary residents can testify, the days when gringos could live high-on-the-hog in Mexico are over. To maintain a standard of living that even the most impoverished American or Canadian med student would expect is no longer inexpensive in Mexico.

Another consideration in choosing a medical school is the probability of matching with a residency program after graduation. For those in their last year of med school “Match Day” may be ranked as high on the anxiety scale as a wedding day. In fact, in the case of our granddaughter, Match Day engendered even more excitement. Imagine, the hundreds of soon-to-be MDs all waiting to be informed at precisely the same second whether they were chosen to be a resident in the field of their choice at a highly desirable teaching hospital, a hospital that was not exactly high on their list – or even any hospital at all.

Before choosing one of the programs in Mexico for a medical education, prospective students must realize that earning an MD degree does not escape the rest of the arduous process of becoming a licensed physician in the US or Canada. Admission to a US or Canadian residency program is not guaranteed and may not even be possible depending on the med school and the particular program of studies undertaken in Mexico. For Canadian graduates of Canadian medical schools, post-MD residency is almost guaranteed – over 95% of applicants “match” within their preferred field. And for graduates of US medical schools, the match rate for US residency programs has been only slightly lower. However, the match rate for residency in the US for students who completed MD degrees out of the country (including in Mexico) is much lower – in 2024 according to the American Medical Association – 67%. And although first-time residency applicants from foreign med schools matched in Canada at a respectable 87%, those who didn’t match during the first application were unlikely to be more successful in subsequent applications, with rates dropping to under 30%.

Finally, to be licensed to practice in the US or Canada, MDs trained in other countries must take a sequence of rigorous exams that require intense study. Most medical school students take some of these exams as they complete their in-class studies and are at the top of their game. And based on our observations of young relatives going through this exam process – one really needs to be passionately committed to practicing medicine north of the border to have the stamina and knowledge to pass.

As much as we love Mexico, we advise young students who have applied to med school in the US or Canada and were not accepted, think twice. Take a year or two and work in a related field. Find out if you really have a passion for medicine, and if you do, choose one of the programs in Mexico that is authorized to make sure their graduates match for residency in the specialty you want in the US or Canada.

A Gallery of Her Own

Galería San Francisco, and a Creative Community Built Around Women Artists

By Susan Santiago—

I opened Galería San Francisco in January 2016, fulfilling a long-held dream of creating a space devoted not only to exhibiting art but to nurturing creativity and community. My first location was in a historic building on Calle San Francisco—charming and full of character. However, as the gallery grew over the next four years, its limitations became increasingly clear. City regulations prohibited exterior signage, which made visibility difficult, and being on the second floor meant many potential visitors simply could not find us. For older adults especially, the stairs were a significant obstacle.

Recognizing that accessibility would be essential to the gallery’s future, I began searching for a more suitable space. When I visited Fábrica La Aurora, I immediately felt it was where we belonged. I was fortunate to secure a lease on two rooms with a patio, and the owner was specifically seeking tenants who offered public classes—perfectly aligned with my vision for Galería San Francisco.

Over the following year, the owner generously approved the conversion of a two-car garage adjacent to the gallery into a classroom. This expansion allowed us to broaden our programming and eventually relocate entirely from Calle San Francisco to Fábrica La Aurora. Today, the gallery functions as both an exhibition space and a creative hub. We offer year-round classes in watercolor, sketching, mixed media, collage, and acrylics, taught by accomplished working artists with many years of teaching experience. Beginners and advanced students alike are welcome, and the atmosphere is intentionally warm and supportive. The mix of local residents, expatriates, and international visitors creates a lively environment where people connect through art and often form lasting friendships.

Over time, Galería San Francisco has become known as a place where art is not only displayed but experienced. Visitors can observe artists at work, participate in classes, or attend workshops and exhibitions throughout the year. We have received awards and glowing reviews on TripAdvisor, where we are frequently described as a “must-visit” destination in San Miguel. What means the most to me, however, is hearing from students who discover creativity they never knew they had, or from travelers who say their time at the gallery became one of the highlights of their visit.

My own journey in the art world has been deeply influenced by my late friend Bob Geno, who owned Orlando Gallery in the Los Angeles area for more than 50 years. Bob gave many artists their first opportunity—including me—and I will always be grateful for his belief in my work. Through his gallery, I met other artists, exchanged ideas, and experienced the camaraderie of a true creative community. He was an avid collector and a true lover of art, and he will always remain close to my heart.

As my retirement from teaching approached, I began to dream about opening my own gallery in San Miguel. I knew I wanted to spend the rest of my life around creative people who were open-minded and interested in ideas. Transitioning from being an art teacher to running a gallery was a true baptism of fire, but now that Galería San Francisco has been open for almost 11 years I have a lot more confidence in how to run a business, but I also know there is always something new to learn. My vision for the gallery was to showcase artists working in a variety of styles and recently I have committed to representing only the work of women artists. I also wanted to offer a variety of classes to the community and visitors to San Miguel. I believe having experienced educators and practicing artists teaching classes creates a more vibrant learning environment.

Focusing on women artists has become an especially meaningful part of the gallery’s identity. Throughout my years in the art world, I saw how often women’s work was overlooked or undervalued. By dedicating the gallery to their work, I hope to provide a platform where their voices and perspectives can be seen and appreciated. The artists we represent range from emerging talents to established professionals, working across many styles and mediums, yet united by originality and a strong personal vision. The sense of mutual support among them is one of the things that makes the gallery feel less like a business and more like a community.

Education remains at the heart of everything we do. Our classes are not only about technique but about encouraging confidence, curiosity, and personal expression. Many students return year after year, and some eventually go on to exhibit their own work, which is incredibly rewarding to witness.

Looking back, the evolution of Galería San Francisco has taught me the importance of adaptability, resilience, and community. What began as a dream in a hard-to-find upstairs space has grown into a thriving gallery and learning center that contributes to the cultural life of San Miguel. I feel deeply grateful to spend my days surrounded by art, by creative people, and by the knowledge that the gallery continues to inspire others to explore and express their own creativity.

Kate Van Doren’s latest exhibition opens in Querétaro

By Ann Marie Jackson—

Join Kate Van Doren and many of the women featured in The Healing Words Project on Friday, March 6, at 7:00 p.m. at the Museum of Art in Querétaro (MAQRO) for the opening of a three-room solo exhibition that is less about a single artist and more about collective voice. The Healing Words Project is a living body of work composed of hundreds of women’s and gender-expansive people’s stories of survival, displacement, grief, resistance, and healing—expressed through painting, photography, drawing, and video. The exhibition will run from March 6 through June 6, 2026.

Created by artist and registered art therapist Kate Van Doren, The Healing Words Project centers self-authored narratives. Each participant contributes her own words—often a mantra, prayer, or declaration—which are written directly onto the body and documented through portraiture. These images then become the foundation for artworks that reflect both the individual and the shared human experience. The words are not decorative; they are the work itself.

At its heart, the project asks a quiet but radical question: What happens when women are believed? And further—what becomes possible when their stories are not edited, interpreted, or extracted, but honored exactly as they are offered?

The exhibition in Querétaro arrives at a moment of global reckoning. Across Mexico and beyond, conversations around gender-based violence, migration, displacement, and collective trauma are increasingly urgent. Many of the women represented in the exhibition are refugees, activists, mothers, artists, and survivors—some forced to leave their homelands, others navigating systems that have long silenced them. Rather than framing these stories through victimhood, The Healing Words Project centers agency. The women are not subjects of the artwork; they are collaborators and co-authors. Learn more at healingwordsproject.com.

Van Doren describes her approach as empathic realism—a socially engaged form of realism rooted in ethical collaboration and deep listening. Her paintings are technically precise, yet emotionally porous. They do not dramatize suffering or offer easy narratives of redemption. Instead, they hold space for complexity: grief alongside strength, anger alongside tenderness, vulnerability alongside power. Each portrait is an act of witnessing rather than interpretation.

The exhibition unfolds across three rooms, inviting viewers into an immersive encounter with these voices. Moving through the space, visitors are met not by spectacle, but by presence. The cumulative effect is intimate and expansive at once—each individual story standing on its own, while also contributing to a collective chorus. The repetition of words, faces, and gestures becomes a form of visual testimony.

Importantly, The Healing Words Project is grounded in reciprocity. For many participants —particularly those impacted by war, displacement, or economic instability—the project extends beyond visibility. Mutual aid, commissions, and shared resources are integral to the work. Art, here, is not symbolic; it is practical. It creates connection, sustains relationships, and, in some cases, directly supports families and communities.

Querétaro’s role as host city is significant. With its deep cultural history and contemporary art scene, the city provides a powerful setting for an exhibition rooted in remembrance, resilience, and forward movement. Opening during International Women’s Month, the show invites reflection not only on women’s experiences, but on how healing operates collectively—how it moves between people, generations, and places.

“When one voice heals, it echoes,” Van Doren says. The phrase functions less as a slogan than as a lived truth. In witnessing the healing of another, something shifts internally. The exhibition does not promise resolution or closure. Instead, it offers permission: to feel, to listen, to recognize one’s own story in the presence of another.

The Healing Words Project ultimately reminds us that art does not have to be loud to be powerful. Sometimes, its greatest strength lies in its ability to listen—and in doing so, to create space for collective care in uncertain times.

I have had the honor of bearing witness to the power of The Healing Words Project over the last several years. For so many of us, nothing is more healing and empowering than finding our voice and sharing our truth.

You can find Kate’s work at http://www.katevandoren.com @catvandoren on instagram.

Ann Marie Jackson is a book editor and the award-winning author of The Broken Hummingbird. Jackson is also co-founder of the women’s microlending organization Mano Amiga and a longstanding board member of Casita Linda, which builds homes for families living in extreme poverty in central Mexico.

Editor’s Letter

By Jane Bauer—

“We are here to awaken from our illusion of separateness.”
Thích Nhat Hanh

When you rant or retort obnoxiously on social media, it is like holding a hot coal in your hand and expecting someone else to burn. Your comment affects everyone who reads it — including you. Cortisol rises. Stress follows.

I opened my phone this morning and within minutes my nervous system was lit up. News of a cartel shooting. Messages asking if I was okay. A fire in Xadani. Canadians ranting about Mexicans ripping them off. Mexicans ranting about Canadians being cheap and gentrifying their country.

Stress — the invisible toxin.
Every time we open our phones and consume outrage, our bodies release cortisol. Heart rate increases. Inflammation pathways activate. The nervous system does not distinguish well between physical danger and social conflict; it simply reacts. Living in a constant state of judgment is physiologically corrosive.

Yes, we are living longer than previous generations. Medicine has dramatically extended lifespan over the past century. But we are also surrounded by more environmental toxins than ever — pollutants in our water, plastics in our oceans, chemicals measurable in human blood. Chronic disease now dominates modern life. We have prolonged years, but have we protected vitality?

To be healthy is to be whole — regulated, connected, integrated. Healthcare, at its root, should mean caring for that wholeness.

We often talk about “coexisting,” as if we are separate entities sharing space. In reality, we are deeply interconnected. Like a tree that depends on the quality of the river from which it drinks, the tree and the river are one. Separation is an illusion.

Be more understanding. Be more open. Assume good intentions more often than not. Regulate your nervous system. Put the phone down. Cook something real. Hug a tree and a stranger. Sit across from someone different from you and listen.

Wholeness isn’t optional; it’s essential. And in a time like this, choosing calm may be one of the most radical health decisions we can make.

See you next month,

Jane