Category Archives: San Miguel de Allende

Stirring the Glass: The Spice Revolution Behind San Miguel’s Cocktails

By Michael Solof—

Spices don’t just shape the flavors on San Miguel’s plates—they’re also finding their way into some of the city’s most creative cocktails. To learn more, I stopped by Bekeb at Live Aqua. Bekeb has been ranked among North America’s 50 Best Bars. There I spoke with Marco, one of their lead mixologists, about how traditional ingredients and modern techniques come together behind the bar.

“The beverages we serve here are rooted in tradition and driven by creativity,” says Marco. “We honor Mexico’s ancestral ingredients while embracing modern techniques and presentations.”

Bekeb, which means “seed” in the Tzotzil language, opened its doors in 2019 and has since become one of Mexico’s most respected cocktail destinations. The bar’s menu is built around Mexican spirits, regional ingredients, and carefully crafted flavor combinations. Herbal, citrus, tropical, and savory cocktails are presented with meticulous attention to detail, from the ice and garnish to the glassware itself.

“All the distillates and liqueurs we use are of exceptional quality,” Marco explains. “We make our own juices, and some ingredients are even harvested directly from a ranch, including lavender.”

Two cocktails perfectly illustrate Bekeb’s approach.
The Tepache Cocktail (Water Honey) combines pox, cocoa liqueur, fine sherry, pulque, coconut extract, and cocoa foam. One of its key ingredients is aguamiel, the naturally sweet sap extracted from pulquero agave and fermented for several days before use.

Another standout is the Cocktail Copal (Tomato), a savory blend of Ocho Blanco tequila, Dolin Blanc vermouth, celery bitters, and pickled tomatillo.

“It’s our version of a Mexican martini,” says Marco. “Very dry, herbal, and clean.”

Of course, Bekeb isn’t the only place in San Miguel exploring the relationship between spices and beverages. Traditional drinks throughout Mexico have long incorporated aromatic ingredients and spices in creative ways.

Atole is a comforting hot beverage made from masa and often flavored with cinnamon or chocolate.

Horchata, a refreshing drink made from rice, cinnamon, and sugar, provides a cooling counterpoint to many of Mexico’s spicier dishes.

Pulque, a fermented agave beverage consumed for centuries, is still enjoyed throughout central Mexico, with some variations incorporating herbs, spices, and local fruits.

And for those seeking a little extra heat, many local bars have put their own spin on the classic margarita by adding jalapeño or serrano peppers, creating a cocktail that is both refreshing and fiery.

Whether served in a clay mug, a traditional glass, or a carefully crafted cocktail coupe, San Miguel’s beverages tell the same story as its cuisine: one of tradition, innovation, and a deep appreciation for flavor.

Michael Solof leads SMA Adventure Hound, a group that takes locals and newcomers to weekly brunches and dinners at different restaurants. He also offers classes in smartphone photography. You can contact him at WhatsApp +1-443-310-9214 for more info and to reserve.

José Mojica: The Man Who Chose a Greater Stage

By Roger D. Jones—

One of Hollywood’s biggest stars gave it all up to become a Franciscan friar—and spent his final years in San Miguel de Allende. José Mojica lived two extraordinary lives. First, he became one of Mexico’s most celebrated singers and one of Hollywood’s earliest Latin stars. Then, at the height of his international fame, he walked away from it all to become a Franciscan friar.

Born in San Gabriel, Jalisco, on September 14, 1895, Mojica rose from humble beginnings to captivate audiences throughout the Americas and Europe. His exceptional tenor voice attracted the attention of the legendary Enrico Caruso, who recognized his talent and encouraged the young singer’s career.

With the advent of talking pictures, Mojica’s handsome screen presence and powerful voice made him one of Hollywood’s first successful Latin actors. Alongside Dolores del Río, Ramón Novarro, and Lupe Vélez, he helped introduce Mexican talent to international audiences.

His recordings—including María Grever’s Júrame—became classics and secured his place among the most admired performers of his generation.

Chicago and International Fame
Before Hollywood embraced him, Mojica was a principal performer with the Chicago Opera, where he appeared before large audiences and earned international recognition. His recordings circulated widely, expanding his popularity throughout North and Latin America.

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A Home in San Miguel
In the 1930s, Mojica discovered the quiet colonial town of San Miguel de Allende. Captivated by its beauty, he purchased and restored the estate now known as Antigua Villa Santa Mónica, intending to create a peaceful home for his beloved mother.

Over time, the villa became a gathering place for artists, musicians, writers, diplomats, and filmmakers. Mojica helped introduce many artists and cultural figures to San Miguel, adding to the town’s growing reputation as a center for the arts.

Solamente Una Vez
Among Mojica’s close friends was composer Agustín Lara. When Lara learned that Mojica intended to leave the stage and enter religious life, he composed Solamente Una Vez, a song that would become one of the enduring classics of Latin American music.

A Different Calling
The death of Mojica’s mother marked a turning point in his life. Soon afterward, he left behind his successful career in opera, film, and recording to enter the Franciscan Order in Peru, where he became Fray José de Guadalupe Mojica.

For the rest of his life, he devoted himself to religious service, charitable work, and music. He later reflected on his remarkable journey in his bestselling autobiography, Yo pecador (I, a Sinner), offering readers a deeply personal account of his transformation from international celebrity to Franciscan friar.

The Children of Mexiquito
One chapter of Mojica’s life is especially meaningful here in San Miguel. He helped establish the orphanage in Mexiquito, just outside the city, where he worked with children and shared his love of music.

For my wife, Rosana, this history is deeply personal. As a young girl, she sang there under Fray José Mojica’s direction. That memory reminds us that history often survives not only in books and buildings, but in the lives of those who experienced it firsthand.

A Lasting Legacy
José Mojica achieved a level of fame few people ever experience. Yet he is remembered not only for his accomplishments on the opera stage and in Hollywood, but also for the life he chose afterward.

His legacy lives on in San Miguel de Allende through Villa Santa Mónica, the orphanage at Mexiquito, his recordings, and the memories of those whose lives he touched.

His remarkable journey reminds us that success can be measured in many ways. For José Mojica, the greatest legacy was found not in applause, but in a life devoted to service.

Continuing Fray José Mojica’s Legacy
More than 60 years after Fray José Mojica helped establish the children’s home in Mexiquito, the Santuario Hogar Guadalupano (Casa Hogar Mexiquito) continues its mission of providing a safe home, education, and support for vulnerable boys and young people in San Miguel de Allende. The organization describes its guiding principle as: “To love, protect, and offer a home to our beloved children.”

Community members and visitors can support the orphanage in several ways:

Make a financial donation, either online through PayPal, by bank transfer, or in person.

Donate needed supplies, including food, clothing, personal hygiene products, cleaning supplies, and school materials.

Volunteer by helping with homework, leading art or recreational activities, assisting with maintenance projects, or sharing professional skills. The home also welcomes university students completing community service.

For more information or to make a donation, visit:
http://www.shgmexiquito.org.mx

Roger D. Jones is a longtime resident of San Miguel de Allende, Mexico, and co-founder of Casa Angelitos Boutique Hotel and EcoParque La Joyita. A writer, designer, and advocate for regenerative living, he is passionate about creating places and experiences that celebrate beauty, nature, music, community, and the enduring spirit of Mexico. He also supports the regenerative agriculture and educational mission of Vía Orgánica. Learn more at http://www.casaangelitos.com
http://www.ecoparquelajoyita.com
and http://www.viaorganica.org

Hongosto

By Jane Bauer—

7 Fascinating Facts About Mushrooms

In August, the rains transform the forests surrounding San Miguel de Allende into one of nature’s greatest spectacles. Seemingly overnight, mushrooms emerge from the forest floor, tree trunks, fallen logs, and even old pinecones. The season is so closely associated with the month that many affectionately call it Hongosto—a blend of hongo (mushroom) and agosto. For just a few weeks, wild fungi become one of the stars of the season, appearing in markets, restaurant menus, and forest trails before disappearing almost as quickly as they arrived.

1. Mushrooms aren’t plants.
They’re not animals either. Mushrooms belong to their own biological kingdom: Fungi, more closely related to animals than to plants.

2. Most of the mushroom is hidden.
The part we eat is simply the fruiting body. The real organism is an underground network of microscopic threads called mycelium, which can stretch for kilometres beneath the forest.

3. Every mushroom has a different job.
Some recycle dead trees, turning fallen wood back into soil. Others live in partnership with tree roots, helping forests absorb water and nutrients. A few even grow on insects or other fungi.

4. They can appear overnight.
After the right combination of rain, humidity, and temperature, mushrooms can grow from invisible to fully formed in just 24–48 hours.

5. They’re nutritional powerhouses.
Many edible mushrooms are rich in B vitamins, selenium, potassium, antioxidants, and fibre, while being naturally low in calories. Some varieties are also being studied for their potential immune-supporting and anti-inflammatory properties.

6. Mexico is one of the world’s great mushroom countries.
Scientists have documented thousands of fungal species in Mexico, with hundreds considered edible. New species are still being discovered.

7. Forests couldn’t survive without fungi.
Without mushrooms and other fungi breaking down dead plants and recycling nutrients, forests would eventually become buried under layers of undecomposed leaves and wood.

Wild mushrooms can be purchased at Simbiosis in Mercado Sano, San Miguel de Allende.
http://www.simbiosisboutique.com

How I Became the Empress of Cheese

By Tonya Harmon—

When we arrived in San Miguel de Allende in June 2022, there was one thing I truly missed: good, locally made, European-style artisan cheese.

I resigned myself to buying imported cheeses at La Comer and City Market, supplemented by the occasional treasures I carried home from the United States, France, or Italy. At the time, I knew very little about Mexican cheese. I knew only that I did not particularly enjoy the commercial varieties I had encountered in grocery stores.
Cheese, however, had already been part of my life for decades. After leaving my software company in 2008, I began a journey to learn as much about it as I could. It was the natural continuation of a long love affair with cheese that had begun in France, a country where my family and I have spent a month or more nearly every year for decades.

I studied the science and technology of cheesemaking at the University of Guelph. Later, I travelled through Tuscany, learning to make cheese with shepherdesses across the region. I consumed countless books on the subject and eventually decided that our next great venture should be to buy a dairy in Ontario, Canada, and make cheese ourselves.

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Then I visited the dairies that were for sale and spoke with the cheesemakers who operated them. It did not take long to realize that the supposedly Zen-like life of stirring curds and whey seven days a week was not for me. Still, I loved the subject. I continued studying cheese without knowing where that knowledge might lead—and, honestly, without caring very much. I simply loved learning everything I could about it.

An Unlikely Cheese Pilgrimage
The following May, I saw a flyer advertising a National Wine and Cheese Festival in Tequisquiapan. The information was remarkably vague. There were no clear dates, no reliable schedule, and little indication of precisely where or when the festival would take place. The admission price was not listed. Online, the information was even less helpful and appeared to have been left over from the previous year.

On a warm Saturday morning, my husband and I decided to take our chances. We drove approximately two hours, past the Querétaro airport, expecting to find a small local festival featuring the same Mexican cheeses I had already decided I was never going to appreciate.

I was wrong.
We arrived around eleven in the morning, parked, and began walking. Our route took us past a long indoor Mexican market packed with people and overflowing with baskets, dolls, brooms, hardware, fresh produce, and almost anything else one could imagine.

A few blocks later, we emerged into the picturesque central square, surrounded by an imposing parish church and lovely boutiques selling jewelry, pottery, clothing, and local crafts. Then we began noticing the cheese shops. They appeared one after another along the side streets, their windows and counters filled with cheeses in an extraordinary variety of shapes, sizes, colors, and textures. Most were completely unfamiliar to me, but they were clearly not the standard commercial cheeses I had seen at La Comer.

My curiosity took over. I fell for the beautiful displays, photographed everything, and tried desperately to understand what the shopkeepers were telling me. My Spanish was limited, my knowledge of Mexican cheese was even more limited, and our phones could not find an internet connection.

This was not San Miguel. We were on our own. Eventually, after wandering around town, we located the festival grounds in a large park several blocks from the center. The entire park was surrounded by a high stone wall, and we could not find an open entrance. After walking almost all the way around it, we finally learned that the festival would not begin until one o’clock.

When the gates eventually opened, we paid the 300-peso admission charge and were each handed a wineglass for the tastings.
We could hear the festival before we entered. Loud music vibrated through the park, which was rapidly filling with stylish young Mexicans enjoying the live performances. Around its perimeter, vendors offered tastings and sold wine, beer, food—and, most importantly, cheese.

We spent the afternoon moving from booth to booth and buying as much cheese as we could carry back to the car. The producers were knowledgeable, professional, and extraordinarily generous. They offered tastings, pairings, and demonstrations, despite our very limited ability to understand their explanations. The greatest surprise was the cheese itself.

Much of it was made in recognizable European traditions: fresh chèvres, creamy Camembert- and Brie-style wheels, smooth aged cheeses reminiscent of Comté, and beautiful cheeses made from goat’s and sheep’s milk.

It was heaven. I bought hundreds of dollars’ worth—not out of restraint or reason, but from curiosity, desire, and the fear that I might never find any of it again in San Miguel. That fear was not entirely misplaced. To this day, I have not found many of those particular cheeses for sale here.

A Gold Mine Hiding in Plain Sight
During the week following the festival, I tried to contact the cheesemakers. I emailed them. I sent messages in Spanish through Facebook and WhatsApp. I explained that I loved their cheeses and wanted to find a way to buy them in San Miguel.

I did not receive a single response. So I began investigating on my own. I searched their websites, learned everything I could about the producers and their cheeses, and began researching the larger history of cheesemaking in Mexico. It felt as though I had discovered a gold mine hiding in plain sight: a remarkable artisan-cheese culture that many people in San Miguel did not seem to know existed.
Meanwhile, I still had a cooler filled with marvelous cheese. What was I going to do with all of it?

I posted on Facebook, inviting people to come taste the cheeses and hear what I had learned about Mexico’s fascinating history of European-style cheesemaking. Within hours, more than one hundred people had responded. And so my “cheese classes” began. I assumed I would teach one or two classes, satisfy everyone’s curiosity, and be finished with it. Instead, three years later, requests for new classes continue to arrive almost daily.

Perhaps that should not surprise me. Cheese combines fat, salt, aroma, texture, fermentation, history, memory, and pleasure in a way few other foods can. It brings people to the table before they have even decided to sit down.

Discovering Mexican Cheese
Since that first festival, I have learned an enormous amount about the cheeses made in Mexico. I have also developed a much deeper appreciation for traditional Mexican cheeses as well as their European-style counterparts.

I had initially dismissed Mexican cheese based on a handful of commercial products. What I discovered was an astonishingly varied world of small dairies, family farms, dedicated cheesemakers, regional traditions, native recipes, European influences, and new experimentation.

I have now found many exceptional cheeses made much closer to home. Some follow French, Italian, or Spanish traditions; others are unmistakably Mexican. The best reflect the milk, animals, climate, landscape, and personality of the people who make them.
Mexican artisan cheese is delicious, distinctive, and still woefully underrepresented in a community with an apparently insatiable appetite for it. The subject is endless, which is precisely what I love about it. There is always another history to uncover, another farm to visit, another cheesemaker to meet, another wheel to taste, and another way to serve it.

My goal has always been to connect cheese lovers with these extraordinary products and introduce them to the tireless farmers, shepherds, and cheesemakers behind them.

I never did buy that dairy in Ontario. Instead, cheese found another use for me.

To book your cheese experience:
Empress of Cheese EmpressofCheese.com

Cheeses to try:
La Estrella’s creamy, rich fresh goat cheese, made at the highly acclaimed artisanal urban farm.

On Stirling Dickinson:
La Factoría’s Criollo – A smooth, semi-mature cow’s milk cheese with a consistency made for slicing and melting.

You can find these at Luna se Queso:
Del Rebaño OVNI — A sheep’s-milk cheese with a creamy interior and a white-mold rind. It was created by Gaby, the master cheesemaker and a former gold-medal winner at the International Cheese Awards.

Banon-style cheese — An artisanal goat’s-milk cheese inspired by the classic cheese from Provence. Made in Jalisco, it is wrapped in grapevine leaves and tied with string.

Del Rebaño Padua — A sheep’s-milk cheese with a creamy consistency and qualities similar to French camembert.

Carnitas: The Monarch of the Copper Cauldron

By Ben Indi—

Porchetta, confit of goose, rillettes, confit de canard… it would seem that the great kitchens of the Old World have always found something inherently noble about cooking an animal in its own fat. To the uninitiated, or to those who see gastronomy as little more than fuel, the idea may sound excessive, even ironic. Yet history has proven, time and again, that few techniques reward patience more generously. Fat, after all, is not merely indulgence—it is one of the oldest vessels of flavor mankind has ever discovered.

Mexico embraced that lesson in its own unmistakable way. Blessed with an extraordinarily rich culinary heritage, introduced to the pig after the arrival of the Spanish, and armed with the practical ingenuity that has long defined its people, the country forged one of the true giants of its national cuisine: carnitas.

Travel through almost any region of Mexico and you will discover how indispensable they have become. From bustling city markets to roadside stands and sleepy village plazas, carnitas are woven into everyday life with such ease that one could almost mistake them for something eternal. They are not, of course. Historical records place their consumption as early as the seventeenth century, and tradition consistently points toward the state of Michoacán as their spiritual birthplace. There, the town of Quiroga proudly claims to serve the most authentic—and, according to many devoted pilgrims, the finest version of them all.

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Like many great dishes, carnitas possess a deceptive simplicity. At their core they require only four things: pork, pork fat, salt, and a cazo set over the fire.

A cazo is no ordinary pot. It is an enormous vessel devoted almost exclusively to the preparation of carnitas, traditionally hammered from copper. That choice was never accidental. Copper distributes heat with remarkable consistency, allowing enormous quantities of meat to cook evenly over many hours. Considering that a single batch may require an entire pig, it is difficult to imagine a working carnitas cauldron holding fewer than forty liters. Many hold several times that amount, quietly standing at the center of family businesses that have survived for generations.

Spend enough time around carnitas and you will eventually collect a small anthology of sayings.
“Good carnitas need no disguise.”
“The best carnitas are eaten standing up.”
“The secret is in the cauldron.”
“Carnitas cannot be rushed.”
“You can smell a good cazo from a block away.”

Whether or not every one of these sayings is genuinely traditional hardly matters. Together they reveal the reverence surrounding the craft. Yet perhaps no sentence captures its philosophy more completely than this:

“Carnitas don’t have a recipe; they have a master.”

Every respectable maestro develops an instinct that cannot be measured with thermometers or timers alone. Temperature, color, aroma, the sound of bubbling fat, the feel of the meat as it yields beneath a wooden paddle—these become the true language of the craft. Observation and patience outweigh written instructions, while repetition gradually evolves into intuition.

That knowledge is rarely given away freely. Each master protects subtle details of technique with quiet pride, not out of arrogance, but out of respect for a lifetime spent beside the cauldron. It is therefore no surprise that carnitas are so often a family trade, passed from parents to children until the methods become less like formulas and more like inherited instincts. In many establishments, the copper cazo itself becomes a family heirloom, blackened by decades of fire yet polished by thousands upon thousands of unforgettable meals.

So what, then, is the definitive recipe? The answer is almost certainly that there isn’t one. To understand Mexican cooking is to understand something deeper about Mexico itself. Scarcity has often demanded creativity, and broken circumstances have repeatedly forced ordinary people to become extraordinary problem-solvers. More often than not, those improvisations have given birth to dishes that later generations came to regard as timeless classics. Carnitas are no exception.

Orthodoxy certainly exists, but so does freedom. One cook may add only pork, fat, salt, and water. Another may quietly introduce milk for color, oranges for fragrance, pineapple for sweetness, bay leaves, cloves, piloncillo, cola, or even beer. Every addition has its defenders. Every omission has its purists.

Limit your imagination if you wish; Mexican cooks rarely will. Still, complexity has always had a minimalist rival, and thankfully so.

Should fortune lead you to a humble stand where the only additions to the cauldron are water and salt, do not mistake simplicity for compromise. Quite the opposite. Some of the most unforgettable carnitas you will ever taste owe their greatness precisely to that restraint. They remind us that extraordinary cooking is not always about adding more, but about understanding when nothing else is needed.

When the time finally comes to eat, the ritual is refreshingly uncomplicated. Fresh tortillas are non-negotiable. Salsa is expected. You will almost certainly find sliced radishes, chopped onion, and cilantro waiting nearby. Yet if I were asked to name one ingredient that deserves to stand beside the carnitas themselves, my answer would be simple: lime.

There is an old joke that squeezing lime over a carnitas taco magically turns it into diet food. Let us not insult one another’s intelligence. This is hardly the sort of meal one chooses while counting calories. Save your remorse for tomorrow’s workout and devote today’s attention to the pleasures of the table. Some indulgences deserve to be enjoyed without apology.

Ordering carnitas, however, is an education all its own. You are not merely choosing meat; you are choosing a particular expression of the pig. Lean maciza, juicy ribs, liver, tongue, chamorro (the shank), silky cuerito (skin), buche (stomach), nana (uterus), nenepil (uterus and stomach connective tissue), snout, cheek, or the celebrated surtida, a glorious mixture of several cuts working together in perfect harmony.

If you wish to impress the person behind the chopping block, confidently ask for a taco de nana. There is a fair chance they may not even have it that day, but the mere request is often enough to earn a knowing smile. It tells them you have wandered beyond the safety of the tourist’s order.

Once your credentials have been established, you may elevate the conversation further by asking for chamorro con cuero, a combination many consider a timeless classic. As for me, I remain unconvinced. Magnificent though it may be, I believe it ultimately surrenders its crown to the humble taco de surtida, which I gladly proclaim the undisputed monarch of the copper cauldron. Rich, textured, unapologetically imperfect, it embodies everything carnitas aspire to be in a single tortilla.

I could happily devote several more pages to explaining the finer distinctions between these cuts, but I would much rather leave you with a reason to continue exploring on your own. Curiosity has always been one of the finest seasonings any meal can possess.

My brief stay in San Miguel de Allende has not afforded me enough time to visit every carnitas stand the city has to offer. I do have a favorite, naturally, and I admit I have been tempted to tell you exactly where it is. Then again, I suspect I would be robbing you of one of the greatest pleasures this country offers. Finding your own favorite taco is a journey.

It is the excuse to wander unfamiliar streets, to follow an irresistible aroma drifting through the afternoon air, to trust the longest line of locals, or simply to stop wherever the copper cauldron catches your eye. More often than not, those small detours become the memories that endure long after the meal itself has faded.

Every memorable city deserves to be discovered twice: once through its monuments, and once through its kitchens. Mexico, perhaps more than anywhere else, understands this truth.

So wherever your travels may take you, approach the copper cauldron with both appetite and curiosity. Listen to the crackle of the bubbling fat, watch the practiced rhythm of the master’s knife, accept the taco with both hands, and remember that you are tasting far more than pork cooked in lard. You are sharing in centuries of craftsmanship, family tradition, patience, and quiet pride.

Eat well. Eat slowly. And above all, enjoy every bite.

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The Gourmet Triangle: Eats in Roma Norte, Roma Sur, and Condesa

By Carole Reedy—

Surely you’ve heard about the variety and quality of the restaurants in this charming historic area of Mexico City. What you may not realize is that you don’t have to empty your wallet to enjoy a memorable meal.

The recommendations listed here won’t be found in the many articles naming the “Top Ten” places to eat in Mexico City, but they do promise authentic flavors, a warm Mexican welcome, and a meal you’ll still feel good about when the credit card bill arrives.

The Colonias
The neighborhoods (colonias) of Roma Norte, Roma Sur, and Condesa form a triangle just southwest of the city center. It’s an easy area to explore on foot, with tree-lined streets, beautiful parks, and striking Art Deco architecture.

You’ll find everything here—from taco stands and neighborhood cafés to some of the city’s most celebrated restaurants. The good news is that there are excellent choices at every price point.

Each neighborhood has its own personality. Roma Sur feels more residential and relaxed, with more families than tourists. Roma Norte is livelier, filled with cafés, boutiques, and nightlife. Condesa is the most polished of the three, known for its parks, outdoor dining, and stylish atmosphere.

Roma Sur
Let’s begin at the heart of the neighborhood food scene: Mercado Medellín, on the corner of Medellín and Campeche. Named for the street on which it stands, the market is especially known for its Colombian, Cuban, Venezuelan, and Peruvian vendors, making it one of the best places in the city to experience the flavors of Latin America.

Aisle after aisle offers fresh produce, meats, seafood, flowers, spices, cheeses, baked goods, and specialty ingredients. In the back, you’ll even find household goods and hardware.

Several small restaurants are scattered throughout the market, serving fresh, inexpensive Mexican dishes. Grab a seat among the locals and enjoy one of the city’s most authentic dining experiences.

A block or two north on Calle Medellín you’ll find several neighborhood eateries. One local favorite is Pollos Mario, best known for its rotisserie chicken and Colombian specialties. It’s affordable, lively, and consistently popular.

Also on Medellín, between Campeche and Nayarit, is El Compita, a bustling taquería where the steady stream of local diners is usually a good indication you’ve found something worth trying.

After your tacos, stroll a couple of doors down to Dulce Refugio for dessert and coffee.

If you’re craving pizza or Italian food, DoppioZero Pizza Romana, just around the corner on Coahuila, is a dependable choice. Across the street, Aburger serves Angus burgers that satisfy those occasional comfort-food cravings.

The variety, quality, and reasonable prices make this neighborhood an ideal place to combine sightseeing with a leisurely lunch or dinner.

The Bistros of Roma Norte and Condesa
One of the pleasures of these neighborhoods is dining outdoors, surrounded by elegant Art Deco buildings and the leafy parks that give the area so much of its charm.

Start with coffee and a milhojas—a delicate pastry layered with cream and fruit—at Rosetta Bakery on Colima. The bakery is almost always busy, but the pastries are well worth the wait.

Across from Parque México, at the corner of Michoacán and Avenida México, Toscana is the perfect place to linger over breakfast or lunch. The menu ranges from huevos mexicanos to Reuben sandwiches, and the relaxed atmosphere invites you to stay awhile.

Just down the street is Nonna, one of my favorite places to take visitors. The menu features classic Italian dishes, an excellent wine list, and a welcoming atmosphere that makes it easy to settle in for the evening.

Continue toward Insurgentes and you’ll come to La Naval, a combination gourmet grocery, wine shop, and liquor store. It’s an excellent place to stock up if you’re entertaining, with a wonderful selection of cheeses, deli items, wines, beers, and specialty spirits.

Better yet, stay for tapas at the restaurant attached to the store, where you can enjoy Spanish-inspired small plates in either the indoor dining room or on the terrace.

Asian cuisine has become increasingly popular in the area, and two restaurants stand out.

Sesame, next to Rosetta Bakery, has been serving creative Asian-inspired dishes for years. Its inventive cocktails and consistently good food have helped it remain a neighborhood favorite. Don’t miss the lamb samosas or the pad Thai.

A newer addition is Kiin Viet Thai Eatery on Orizaba. The prices are a bit higher than many of the other restaurants mentioned here, but the fresh Vietnamese and Thai flavors make it worth the splurge. Just be prepared—the spice level can rival even the hottest Mexican dishes.

One of the joys of exploring Roma Norte, Roma Sur, and Condesa is discovering that some of the city’s best meals aren’t found in the trendiest dining rooms. They’re tucked into neighborhood markets, family-run cafés, bustling taquerías, and bakeries where locals gather every day. Come hungry, wander a little, and you’ll eat remarkably well—without breaking the bank.

The Politics of Corn: Who Owns Mexico’s Corn?

By Estefanía Camacho—

For decades, Mexicans have embraced the catchy phrase “sin maíz no hay país” (“without corn, there is no country”), reflecting the idea that corn is indeed everywhere, perhaps as widespread as the nopal cactus, and has long been a vital source of nourishment.
Although the phrase was probably never meant to suggest that the country would literally cease to exist if corn disappeared, the ancient Maya would likely have agreed with its underlying message. According to the Popol Vuh, the sacred book of the Maya, which many Mexican students start studying in their early school years, the first humans successfully created by the gods were made of corn. Thus, humankind came to inhabit the Earth. For thousands of years, corn has shaped Mexico’s identity. Today, however, the question is no longer simply where corn comes from, but who controls its future.

The Decree That Started It All
Since 2018, Mexico’s left-wing governments have gained considerable public support by seeking to prohibit the cultivation and consumption of genetically modified corn, heeding warnings from a range of experts. The story continued with a presidential decree issued in February 2023.

As part of President Andrés Manuel López Obrador’s broader agenda on food sovereignty and national self-sufficiency, the Mexican government announced a series of measures concerning genetically modified corn and glyphosate. The decree framed native corn not simply as an agricultural commodity, but as part of Mexico’s biocultural heritage worthy of protection.

The policy prohibited the use of genetically modified corn in dough and tortillas, foods considered central to the Mexican diet. Officials argued that the measure would not disrupt trade because Mexico was already self-sufficient in the production of non-GM white corn, the variety traditionally used for tortillas. Mexico had never authorized the commercial cultivation of genetically modified corn within its territory, although that prohibition had not yet been enshrined in the Constitution.

The decree further distinguished corn according to its intended use, separating grain destined for direct human consumption from corn used for animal feed and industrial food production.

Finally, Mexico’s Federal Commission for the Protection against Sanitary Risks (COFEPRIS) was instructed to continue evaluating the potential health effects of genetically modified corn. U.S. officials, however, argued that the restrictions were not supported by sufficient scientific evidence.

Washington viewed the decree as a trade barrier that threatened billions of dollars in U.S. agricultural exports. The dispute ultimately reached the USMCA’s dispute settlement mechanism, and in December 2024 the panel ruled in favor of the United States.
Mexico complied with the ruling in February 2025 by eliminating the provisions restricting the use of genetically modified corn in tortillas, processed foods, and animal feed. Importantly, however, the decision did not authorize its cultivation.

Instead, President Claudia Sheinbaum responded by pursuing a constitutional amendment explicitly banning the cultivation of genetically modified corn in Mexico. In effect, Mexico accepted the panel’s ruling on imports and commercial use while simultaneously reinforcing its prohibition on growing genetically modified corn within its own borders.

The Industrialization of the Tortilla
The government’s argument rested on a simple premise: Mexico produces enough white corn to supply its tortillas. Technically, that is true. The tortilla market is dominated by surprisingly few companies.

Modern tortilla production is dominated by industrial flour manufacturers, above all Gruma, the parent company of Maseca, and its main competitor, Minsa—both founded in 1949 and today the country’s dominant producers of nixtamalized corn flour. Nixtamalization is the ancestral process of cooking corn kernels with an alkaline substance, transforming the resulting corn and improving its nutritional properties.

Gruma’s transformation began that same year, when businessman Roberto González Gutiérrez and his son, Roberto González Barrera, purchased equipment capable of milling dried nixtamal into flour, industrializing a process that had traditionally taken place in homes and neighborhood tortillerías.

The industry’s real technological leap came in 1965, when engineer Manuel Rubio joined the company and developed a machine capable of producing roughly 600 tortillas per minute, dramatically increasing production efficiency. From there, Gruma expanded well beyond Mexico. Today the company holds dozens of patents related to industrial corn flour and tortilla production and has become one of the world’s largest tortilla manufacturers.

Its expansion into the United States required an unusual strategy. Because Mexican manufacturing technology faced import restrictions at the time, Gruma entered the American market by acquiring an existing U.S. company instead. Government support also played an important role in the company’s early growth. A loan backed by the governor of Nuevo León helped finance its expansion, while Roberto González Barrera would eventually become one of Mexico’s most influential businessmen until his death in 2012.
Although the López Obrador administration was correct in stating that Mexico is largely self-sufficient in white corn production, much of the country’s industrial tortilla market depends on these two companies.

However, Minsa is chaired by businesswoman Altagracia Gómez, who also serves as an adviser to President Claudia Sheinbaum. The overlap between Gómez’s public advisory role and her leadership of one of Mexico’s largest corn flour companies has attracted public scrutiny, particularly as debates over corn policy and food sovereignty continue.

In 2025, Minsa received a government contract worth approximately 346 million pesos. At the same time, independent farmers have continued calling on federal authorities to help market roughly 700,000 tons of domestically produced white corn that remain difficult to sell at profitable prices.

How NAFTA Shaped Trade and Agricultural Abandonment
The struggle over corn is no longer simply about who grows it, but who controls its processing, pricing, and distribution. The United States-Mexico-Canada Agreement (USMCA), known in Mexico as the T-MEC, is the successor to the North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA), which entered into force in 1994. For many Mexican economists, the country’s growing dependence on imported grain started back then. While NAFTA dramatically reshaped trade across North America, its greatest emphasis fell on manufacturing industries such as the automotive sector. Mexican agriculture, many scholars argue, never occupied the same place in the negotiations.

The agreement was renegotiated at Washington’s request in 2017 and eventually replaced by the USMCA, which introduced updated provisions on labor rights, digital trade, and dispute settlement while preserving the region’s broader commitment to free trade.
Researchers at UNAM’s Institute for Economic Research argue that decades of public disinvestment in Mexican agriculture, driven by neoliberal economic policies that prioritized industrial and service sectors, gradually weakened domestic food production. In their view, the erosion of the countryside was not simply an economic consequence but a structural political choice, one that left Mexico increasingly dependent on agricultural imports despite corn’s central place in the country’s economy, culture, and diet.
Against that backdrop, the 2023 decree became far more than a disagreement over genetically modified corn. It evolved into a test of how far Mexico could go in protecting what it considers both a strategic crop and a cultural heritage while remaining bound by its international trade commitments.

Mexico’s dependence on imported yellow corn has grown steadily
If white corn largely remains a domestic crop tied to tortillas, yellow corn tells a very different story.

Mexico’s dependence on imported yellow corn has grown steadily since the implementation of NAFTA, with most imports now consisting of genetically modified grain produced in the United States. The vast majority is destined not for tortillas but for livestock feed and industrial uses.

That trade is dominated by multinational grain companies including Cargill, Archer Daniels Midland (ADM), Bartlett Grain, Scoular, and the Chinese state-owned giant COFCO. These firms purchase grain from American producers, import it through their Mexican subsidiaries, and sell it to the country’s largest livestock operations.
Together, they account for the overwhelming majority of the approximately 17.5 million metric tons of yellow corn imported annually from the United States, according to Mexico’s Agricultural Markets Consulting Group (GCMA).

Even so, Mexico then imports roughly 650,000 metric tons of white corn each year. According to La Jornada, much of that grain is purchased by Maseca and Minsa for direct human consumption through the flour industry. Critics argue that industrial corn flour may not provide the same nutritional and culinary qualities as tortillas made from freshly nixtamalized native corn. The debate, however, extends beyond nutrition. It also centers on the long-term health effects of consuming genetically modified corn, as well as the environmental consequences of introducing transgenic varieties into Mexico’s centers of origin.

Why Is It Important to Keep Reexamining Mexico’s Anti-GMO Policy?
Ana Wegier, a researcher at the Botanical Garden of UNAM’s Institute of Biology, has warned in an op-ed published by Nexos magazine that genetically modified seeds and pollen can spread easily and mix with wild plants and native varieties despite existing restrictions.

“Today, unauthorized transgenes exist in the centers of origin of corn and cotton, and they are virtually impossible to remove,” she explains, shedding light on Mexico’s seemingly unwavering position on genetically modified organisms and corn.

At the same time, advances in biotechnology—including techniques such as CRISPR-Cas9—make it possible to explore gene editing without necessarily introducing DNA from an unrelated species. This approach could increase corn’s protein content, beneficial compounds, and vitamin levels. It is perhaps the kind of tool our ancestors would have wanted as they worked toward developing the best possible corn varieties.

One of the expert opinions submitted during the dispute came from Michael Antoniou, professor of Molecular Genetics and Toxicology at King’s College London. In his report, Antoniou argued that Mexico’s dietary patterns warranted a different level of scrutiny than those typically considered by U.S. regulators.

Because corn constitutes a much larger share of the Mexican diet and is frequently consumed in minimally processed forms such as tortillas, he suggested that potential exposure to glyphosate residues, pesticides, and transgenic proteins could be substantially higher than in the United States.

Antoniou also noted that directly testing these potential risks in humans would be ethically impossible, making long-term animal feeding studies particularly important. He cited research reporting adverse effects in some genetically modified corn feeding trials, while acknowledging that the interpretation of those findings remains the subject of scientific debate. His report ultimately argued that the available evidence justified applying the precautionary principle in countries like Mexico, where corn is consumed daily as a staple food rather than as a minor ingredient.
Wegier and other researchers emphasize that Indigenous farmers have developed extraordinary maize diversity through selective breeding over thousands of years, without reliance on herbicide-resistant transgenic systems.

Ultimately, the debate over genetically modified corn is about much more than agriculture. It asks who will determine the future of one of Mexico’s oldest inheritances: Indigenous communities who have cultivated native varieties for millennia, farmers struggling to remain competitive, multinational grain companies, industrial flour producers, or governments negotiating international trade agreements. In Mexico, corn has never been just a crop. It is culture, identity, livelihood, and sovereignty.

Estefanía Camacho is a freelance Mexican journalist working across media and digital magazines. She is a specialist in gender, SMEs, economics, and business.

My “Mother” Was 78 When I Was Born

By Moose Li, as told to and translated by Micki Voisard—

My name is Moose Li. I’m a rescued Chinese Shar-Pei puppy with wonderful parents. They smell delightfully like salmon oil and sardines. But let’s be honest—my mom was 78 years old when I was born. Living with seniors is quite a lifestyle adjustment, even for a five-month-old puppy like me.

When my family moved from the United States to San Miguel de Allende, I brought my wrinkles while my parents packed the pee pads. Shar-Peis are not exactly known for being marathon runners, but I practice heavy-duty zoomies every day. I also go to weekly training, and my absolute favorite is agility. Yes, me—a bulky, wrinkly puppy—loves hurdles and climbing boulders.

Because of this training, I imagine a human parent as someone who sprints alongside me over the A-frame. My parents don’t do that. They’re in great shape for their age—walking San Miguel’s steep, uneven cobblestones with impressive skill—but they definitely do not run the agility course they created. Instead, my mom relies on hand signals. Poor thing. I also have to bark loudly in a high-pitched voice, since I don’t think either of them can hear very well.

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Sometimes I stare at her while she sits at her computer or reads a book for what feels like hours. Then I catch a glint in her eye. She stands up, closes her computer, and practices her own version of human zoomies with me. Once, I heard her tell a friend that she reminds herself every day that my time on this earth will be far too short.

On our daily walks, I hear other seniors whisper, “Oh, a dog—especially a puppy—is just too much work. That’s why we don’t adopt.” From my point of view, they have it backward—it’s the humans who are a lot of work. I’m constantly reminding my parents to drop their serious faces, stop overthinking, and play tug-of-war. Training a 78-year-old is the real full-time job.

What my older parents lack in speed, they make up for with something a dog could only dream of: time. Because my mom is home most of the day, her schedule revolves around my canine clock. If I want to spend five minutes sniffing a single leaf in Parque Juárez, there’s no rushing.

Humans are funny. They fill their homes with fragile things, yet when I manage to snag one of their treasures, they don’t even bark. They just sigh, trade it for a tasty bone—or one of Dad’s wonderfully smelly old socks—and carry on. At their age, maybe they’re happy to see a few things get shredded. I’m glad to help.

The three of us probably look like an odd match strolling toward the Jardín: two sharply dressed seniors walking a wrinkly ball of kinetic energy. Maybe my mom won’t hurdle park benches with me, but having 78-year-old parents is the ultimate luxury. I get endless love, patience, and time. They get a daily reminder that life is meant to be savored like a marrow bone buried for three months.

My best advice to you older folks? Adopt a dog. We’ll liberate you from your stuff and fill your days with fun. You give us your time and your slow, beautiful pace of life. It’s a pretty wonderful tradeoff.

My name is Moose Li, and I’m a young dog with older parents.

Support Animal Welfare in SMA:
Sociedad Protectora de Animales de San Miguel de Allende (SPA) San Miguel’s oldest no-kill animal shelter, SPA rescues, rehabilitates, and rehomes abandoned dogs and cats while also providing low-cost veterinary care, sterilization programs, and humane education. http://www.spasanmiguel.org

Read the article from
our January 2026 issue: https://theeyehuatulco.com/2026/01/03/san-miguels-oldest-no-kill-shelter-the-lifesaving-work-of-the-s-p-a/

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The Avocado Controversy

By Alicia Flores—

Few foods have enjoyed a rise to global fame quite like the avocado. Once a regional staple in Mexico and Central America, it is now celebrated worldwide on toast, in smoothies, salads, and of course, guacamole. Rich in healthy fats, fiber, and vitamins, it has earned the title of a modern superfood. But behind its creamy green flesh lies a more complicated story.

Mexico produces nearly one-third of the world’s avocados, with the state of Michoacán supplying most of the fruit exported to the United States and Canada. The industry’s success has brought prosperity to many farming communities, creating thousands of jobs and generating billions of dollars in export revenue. Yet the avocado boom has also created unexpected challenges.

As international demand has soared, forests have been cleared to make room for new orchards, threatening biodiversity and reducing habitat for species such as the monarch butterfly. Avocados are also a thirsty crop, requiring significant amounts of water in regions where water resources are already under pressure.

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Perhaps the greatest controversy, however, is economic. The enormous value of the crop has attracted organized crime in parts of Mexico, where criminal groups have been known to extort growers, control transportation routes, and profit from the lucrative trade. These security concerns have occasionally disrupted exports and prompted increased government oversight.

For consumers, these realities can create mixed feelings. Buying Mexican avocados supports the livelihoods of thousands of honest farmers who depend on the industry, yet it also raises important questions about environmental stewardship, water use, and the need for stronger protections against criminal exploitation.

Like many foods that become global commodities, the avocado is neither entirely hero nor villain. It represents the opportunities and challenges of modern agriculture in an interconnected world.

Appreciating the fruit also means recognizing the people, landscapes, and complex issues behind every harvest—and understanding that the future of avocados depends not only on consumer demand, but on producing them in ways that are sustainable, transparent, and fair.

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Holy Guacamole: The Unexpected History of the Avocado

By Randy Jackson—

I’ve always known avocados to be cool. I have this memory of hearing an interview with John Lennon in which he was asked if he had tried them. I also happen to know when I first tasted them: 1986 at the World’s Fair in Vancouver, British Columbia. My own avocado story, however, is just a speck of dust compared with the fruit’s remarkable history.

Hip But Not New
Avocados are a fruit, and like most fruits, their survival has historically depended on the digestive systems of animals. Evolution’s system of seed dispersal is simple: an animal eats the flesh, carries the seed in its intestines, and deposits it elsewhere with a little natural fertilizer. But what kind of creature could swallow an avocado pit whole? Something big. Really big. Prehistorically big. Scientists have suggested that extinct megafauna, possibly including giant ground sloths and gomphotheres (prehistoric, trunked relatives of modern elephants), may once have dispersed avocado seeds. When these giant animals disappeared at the end of the last Ice Age, humans gradually took over the role of cultivating and spreading avocado trees.
By the time the Spanish Conquistadors arrived, there were already cultivated avocado orchards. The Aztec/Nahuatl word for the fruit was āhuacatl, which also happened to be slang for testicle. The Spanish mispronounced this as aguacate, which English speakers eventually warped into avocado.

But there were still centuries to go before the millennial breakfast of avocado toast was born. It took a California mail carrier accidentally cultivating the dark-skinned avocado most of us are familiar with today to truly change the game.

The Hass Accident
Rudolph Hass was a Milwaukee-born son of German immigrants. As a high school dropout seeking his fortune, he worked many jobs before becoming a mailman in Pasadena, California. Around that time, the Los Angeles Times ran an article about “the hanging gardens of Southern California,” noting that avocados could be grown on steep slopes where ordinary crops couldn’t. One magazine ad even featured dollar bills growing on avocado trees. So, in 1925, Rudolph bought into that dream by emptying his savings and borrowing money from his sister to acquire a 1.5-acre piece of land. Unable to afford established trees, he bought a handful of random seeds to start his own avocado grove, accidentally planting one that changed culinary history.

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Rudolph quickly learned what every avocado grower knows: no two avocado trees produce the exact same fruit. Like a genetic lottery, any tree might bear watery, stringy, worthless fruit. The only way to reliably reproduce the variety you actually want is to graft a new tree from a cutting of a tree with desirable avocados. That was as true in Rudolph’s time as it is today.

The desirable avocado at the time was known as the Fuerte, a fruit proven able to withstand California’s cold snaps. Originally from Puebla, Mexico, it was the variety every grower wanted, and California growers grafted all their trees with a branch from a Fuerte tree. This, too, Rudolph Hass attempted to do. But one tree wouldn’t accept the graft and instead produced black, bumpy-skinned fruit. Rudolph’s children preferred the fruit from this rebellious tree, calling them the “ugly avocados.” They had a higher oil content and a richer, creamier flavour. This was the Hass avocado, which today dominates the international commercial avocado market.

Ripening and Marketing
Not yet, not yet, not yet… TOO LATE. This is the sentiment of most people looking to find a ripe avocado. Like all hip things, whether people or produce, the avocado is kind of a snob. It will not ripen while hanging from a branch and will just sit there for a year or more, unchanged. The avocado only begins to ripen once picked, and even then, it isn’t done making you wait.

For growers, the avocado tree is like a living warehouse. Once picked, though, the ripening clock starts, and timing becomes everything. This on-branch storage helps meet calendar-based demand, chief among them American Super Bowl parties, which would be incomplete without guacamole. In fact, the combined demand for guacamole around the Super Bowl, Cinco de Mayo, and the Fourth of July produces some of the largest spikes in U.S. avocado consumption.

But whether for guacamole or other culinary delights, nobody wants an unripe or overripe avocado. Because of this, there is a highly orchestrated process for getting an avocado to your grocery store in a state you’d actually be willing to pay three bucks for.
Once picked, they are chilled within hours to dramatically slow the ripening process. This allows up to four weeks for cold transport to reach grocery store distribution centers. The final ripening stage is then triggered by exposure to ethylene gas at the distribution center, ensuring the avocado reaches your grocery store primed to hit perfect ripeness within about a week.

Which leaves the last, most familiar stretch: standing in the produce section, squeezing avocado after avocado, divining each one’s readiness to eat. One final avocado factoid: once you get it home, putting it in the fridge will slow its final ripening by 80% to 90% compared to leaving it on the counter. Right to the end, the avocado does what it wants, when it wants.

The Millennial Breakfast
For me and many of my non-Mexican contemporaries, the avocado was unheard of until adulthood, arriving essentially when it became more widely available to North American consumers. Interestingly, its modern worldwide popularity has a lot to do with Australia, which is about as far from its historical Mexican origins as you can get. Australians actually originated the hippest avocado terms: smashed avo, smavo, avocado toast, and the Millennial breakfast.

Avocado toast gained mainstream popularity when Australian restaurateur Bill Granger introduced smashed avocado on toast at his Sydney café in 1993. He later included the recipe in one of his cookbooks, and it is widely regarded as the first published recipe for the now-iconic dish.

Gwyneth Paltrow raised its profile further with a recipe in her 2013 cookbook, and food bloggers and Instagram did the rest. Avocado toast got permanently tied to Millennials in 2016, when an Australian newspaper column went viral scolding young people for ordering $22 smashed avocado on toast instead of saving for a house deposit. This meme permanently solidified avocado toast as the definitive Millennial breakfast.

Hardly an early adopter, I had my first avocado toast years later in Huatulco, inadvertently bringing my personal avocado history full circle back to its Mexican roots. And how fitting that, as I finish writing this story from cooler northern lands, far from the nearest avocado tree, I’m happily munching on smavo on a toasted bagel for breakfast.

Randy Jackson blends local reporting from the perspective of a seasonal Huatulco resident with explorations of life and change in Huatulco, Oaxaca and Mexico. Email: box95jackson@gmail.com

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